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I jumped at the first good number I got. Yesterday, I received an email from one of the dealerships - $1,000 off their previous internet quote. It made their offer LOWER than the one I took, but only by about $150. Had I had to haggle for that, I don't think I would have done it. Given to me in a coupon, however, is a different story.
I guess the moral of the story is to get the offers, and then wait a minute, especially if the end of the month is near. It seemed most quotes lasted until the end of the month, and it appears some dealers might cut the prices themselves in order to get your business.
...at least in the Baltimore metro area.
Loki
Good luck!
I have read a few messages on this forum (and learnt the email trick) and I am about to buy a New 2007 Honda Civic Sdn 4dr AT LX. Please help me make a decision (as I think 2.9% APR offer is going to end on 30th april, 2007).
Here is the best "email offer" I have received so far.
"I can offer you a price of $16,921 on the New 2007 Honda Civic Sdn 4dr AT LX that you requested. Of course you will have to add the usual fees - 3 percent tax, $398.00 Documentation Fee, $74.00 for a new tag ($55 to transfer) and any dealer installed accessories you choose."
Please advice me. This quote is from a Honda dealer in Raleigh, NC.
I also have a few other questions -
1. I will be moving to Minnesota for my new job in mid may, hence I wouldnt have the real opportunity to redeem "free oil and filter" etc etc. Is that something I can let dealer know which may help to lower his quote?
2. What is the difference between Insurance (Geico, Progressive) and Honda Care Warranty (Saccucci, Bernardi)? Do I need to have both or one would do?
I have limited knowledge and this is my first car.
Thanks in advance.
Regards
anubhav
$16,995.00 Quoted price
1,359.60 NYS Sales Tax
12.50 NYS Waste Tire Management Fee
10.00 NYS Inspection Fee
125.00 NYS Registration Fees(estimate)
45.00 Dealer's option fee for processing
$18547.10 Total price
It was a very painless buying experience - got to the dealership, test drove the car and filled out the paperwork, gave them my down payment and I'll pick up the car Tuesday.
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Here's the breakdown:
Selling price--$19,700
Doc fee--$180
MI taxes (6%)--1192.80
License (I was keeping my old car)--$85
Title Fee--$15
Total price--$21,172.80
Could I have gotten another hundred or two lower? Probably. But, this was very easy and I didn't have to deal with phone calls or keeping track of numerous sales reps. Besides, the color is beautiful.
As an aside, the NAV is probably not worth the money (you can get a really nice hand held for a few hundred dollars) but it is so fun to have and I'm enjoying the voice command option. I'm rationalizing it as a paying $500 for the NAV and the other $500 for the entertainment.
Some people will always try to rain on your parade.
Your boyfriend is the only bad deal in your life!
negotiated price: $17,926 (i.e. $100 over invoice)
tire fee 12.50
NY inspect 10.
Dealer process registration: $45
8% sales tax: 1434.08
total: $19,427.50
I'm happy.
Loki
Even though I've only driven it an hour, I love it!!! It is very smooth and nice
was this a painful process, did you have a trade in that may have affected the price? I am thinking about buing the same car/model. I will also being going to boch
thanks
I have an email price of $19,275 OTD
sounds like a good deal, but not sure of the tax rate in NC.
I am in washington and wondering which one is better
I am looking for a 4 dr sedan. The dealers here are saying that its not available. Why?
Any help on what price i should pay and should i wait for a DX would be helpful
thank you
Well, of course the LX is better.
The DX is a stripper. No A/C or even a radio.
I'm in WA too and I'll bet it's been 8 years since I've sold a DX Civic. The dealers don't order them because they don't sell.
We found a few like new, low mile Mazda3s and Civics around when my daughter was car shopping - no AC on any of them.
I don't know what dealers charge to install the AC as an option, but the kit is $900 from H&A agaist a $1,200 MSRP - not counting labor, of course. A radio (not the same as you get in the LX and EX) is availble for $160 ($409 MSRP) - not counting installation. It does not look like this includes speakers - you could go aftermarket for a cheaper and/or better solution.
In any case, by the time you did this you would be really close the price of just getting the LX. And you would also get keyless entry, matching mirrors and door handles, cruise control, floor mats, and more.
To me, unless you live where it is cold or don't mind being hot or just can't afford the last $1.9k - you really will be better off getting the LX. Come sale or trade time, the DX will be worth far less and draw less interest as well.
Dennis
Vehicle - $17587
Dest Fee - $595
3% VA Tax - $557
Dealers License Tax - $21
Processing Fee - $399
License & Title - $41
Total OTD = $19200
I always prefer to negotiate the OTD price and let the dealer decide how to allocate the OTD price to the vehicle price, processing fees, ad fees, etc. Thanks to all who posted both LX and EX price information I found it very helpful.
any suggestions on how much OTD i should pay? I have external financing and want to own.
thank you
any pricing info or tips woudl be great..thanks
So...that's
Vehicle - $17,699
Dest Fee - ?
6.5% Florida Tax - $1150 (based on just vehicle price)
Dealers LIcense Tax - ?
Processing Fee - (i think that's same as dealer fee??) - $499
Florida waste tire - $8.50
Total so far OTD = $19,356.50
Of course i'm missing some stuff, but once i get a more detailed quote, i'll post up my progress!
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My guess? What I do is look at the previous month sales figures VS last year and YTD VS last year.
If you look here on the Honda news page you can see the just released numbers.
For Civic they show:
4/07 4/06 chge YTD 07 YTD 06 chge
Civic * 29,155 31,259 1.0% 97,295 109,738 -11.3%
Note that they show a 1% growth in sales, but the NUMBERS show a 1% decline. The YTD numbers are a good bit off compared to last year - but there is always a surge when a new design arrives. My GUESS would be they are sold as many last month this year as the same month in 06, so they are not likely to offer in extra dealer money for May.
They were doing $750 dealer money on Accords and the numbers look strong - good for April and up nearly 12% YTD. They could pull the money - or leave it in place to keep strong sales. They want to be out of Accords when the new design 08 gets to dealers this fall.
Dennis
He was SURE Honda wouldn't change the 0.9 36 mo. rate on Odysseys. He walked away from a two hour grind session only to return today and learn the rate had been tweaked to 2.9%. Still a great rate but not good enough for him!
Now, he wants an even lower price to make up for the loss!
We never know what Honda is going to do!
I am looking for exactly the same car
Honda Civic LX 4dr sedan automatic (no add ons)
Can you suggest what the following should be?
invoice price:?
MSRP price: ? (+ or - some)
Total OTD price:?
i am based in seattle.
I really need this so that i can start looking at some quotes and offers
thanks
I have been reading this forum and it was helpful for me to deal with the car dealers. The most important information I got from this site was the price of the car I was trying to buy. The dealers are so tricky they never give the total price of the car (out of the door.) There was always an unknown component of the price, like the tag fee, document fee, dmv fee you name it. Follow the advise in the forum and nag them till they walk away, but before they walk away make them write the last price they offer you. They forget the price they tell you both because they have tons of customers to deal with and they want to sell the car higher than what they told you before.
Anyways, the price I paid is 16870 (car and destination fee) + 1412 (NY sales tax, 8.375%) + 167 (tire fee, documentation fee, dmv fee, registration) = $18450 (total)
I also bought an extended warranty but I am still not sure if it is worth it. I may end up returning it. This is an other point they may hit you. I paid $1530 for 7yrs/100k warranty (15% less than list price). I think it was still over priced but I had enough of bargaining at that point.
The unaccounted cost here is the time we spent and the stress the multiple dealers induce. We went to 4 Honda dealers but each time we learned something.
Ben
From 05/01/2007 to 07/02/2007
2.9% APR Term: 24 months
2.9% APR Term: 36 months
4.9% APR Term: 48 months
4.9% APR Term: 60 months
Dennis
We could have driven a 6 hour round trip to save $300 on a car purchase a couple of years ago. My wife and I paid the extra $300 (as low as we could get the local dealer to go on the last day of the month), picked up the car, had a nice steak dinner, and were back home before we would have even arrived at the cheaper dealer. $300 well spent, we thought
Dennis
Well, a couple of things (and I hate to be rude)...
You are NOT looking for the same car. You are looking for an automatic. I bought a stick. Your price will be about $800 or so higher.
My BEST suggestion is to go to edmunds.com and look up the TMV price of the car you are looking for. It will list invoice and MSRP. OTD price varies by state - I cannot help you with that. After you get the invoice and MSRP, SEARCH THESE BOARDS to find out what price you may be able to get. The answer you are looking for has probably already been posted.
The only thing I can help you with is the price of the CAR, and *only* the CAR. It appears that, if you do enough work, you should be able to find someone selling it for $200-$400 below invoice. ...but there are a zillion factors... that could change tomorrow.
Best of luck and happy shopping
Loki
Car: 20,455 (included dest. This is $300 above invoice)
Title: 140.25
Doc: 35
Tax: 1881.86
Total OTD was 22512.
I had 1 other offer at 20,400 (in Renton), but paid 55 dollars higher to get the color I wanted. It wasn't worth my time to work all the dealers to see if they would go much lower. This seems like a good price for the Seattle area. They have second stickers here that add $2500 to the MSRP.
I used Edmunds, Cars.com, and links on the indvidual dealer websites to send out my requests. In a few cases I called the dealer and asked for the email address of the Internet Manager.
And, yes, I used the word cheap. I'm pretty frugal myself(ask my wife!) but there comes a point.
I was told that the cheap money availability is based on where the car is titled and the owner lives. So if you live where there is cheap money, you could still use it to buy a car from a state or region that had no such promo - I was told. Dealer money would be a different thing.
Dennis
2007 Civic APR
Super Preferred, Preferred,Standard,Select
24 – 36 months
2.9% APR
2.9% APR
4.9% APR
5.9% APR
37 – 60 months
4.9% APR
4.9% APR
6.9% APR
7.9% APR
These programs are only available to residents of Alabama, Alaska, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Minnesota, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New Mexico, North Carolina, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Washington, West Virginia, Wisconsin and Wyoming.
Has anyone had success getting one that low? Do yall think i could get it for that or maybe even lower? Or am i being too cheap, is $22,500 a good price? Edmunds says invoice is $19,587. So i don't think $21,000 out the door is crazy...but i figure i'll ask yall to get your opinions. Thanks, J.!!!! (PS...i've searched through this forum and found lots of people talking about prices paid for the si, but not the 4 door one, i'm not lazy, i swear!!
(also, little more info, i'm hailing from Miami, Florida, so i'm factoring in 6.5% sales tax)
Civic SI Sedan w/ no Navi
Invoice Price $19,587
6.5% Sales Tax $ 1,273.16
Total = $20,860.16
My goal is OTD of $21,000
Dealer profit would be only $139.84, and i'm not even considering the tag and title...so maybe a more realistic price would be $21,500 OTD? Hmm..that at leaves some profit for the dealership. I don't want to get cheated, but i can understand that the dealership would want to make some profit on the deal...now i'm wondering about hidden dealer profit like i hear they get a 2% kick back, something like that...
Wow...imagine that!
Sorry...couldn't resist.
Anyway, holdback is not really "profit" for a dealer, FYI. I mean, really, to consider something profit in business, you have to subtract all of your costs, right? Holdback, in most cases, is there to help pay those costs. In other words, if every deal a new car dealer made was at straight invoice, they'd go out of business (barring incentives). Luckily, for every savvy shopper, there are probably 2 or 3 non-savvy. SO, you shouldn't necessarily worry yourself with what the dealer is making. You should worry yourself with getting a deal you are happy with, period.
As far as a Civic Si goes, I don't know how it is in your area, but they aren't exactly distressed merchandise in my area, as far as I know. So even getting one for invoice would probably be quite the challenge (if not impossible).
good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't think the dealers can get as many Si cars as they want, so if they are selling the sedans pretty easy w/o much discount then why would they sell you one so cheap? They will not be getting all they want in, and can sell the one you are looking at to someone else for more money. If the sales are slower, then a bit over invoice might be acceptable to them.
Hondas have 3% of MSRP in dealer holdback, but unless they are truly desperate to move the car (like a left over 2006) they normally do not deal down into the holdback. So for your purposes on a new Si sedan you can "forgetaboutit"
I don't know if your goal price is realistic or not. I usually don't buy cars by offering or dealing in "OTD" prices. Get the price for the car with destination and dealer fee(s) included. Compare that number to invoice, if you are within $500-750 on this car then I would say you have a pretty good deal. If it is a lot higher, then try other dealers and offer a lower price. I know how to figure the state and local taxes, tag and title fees, etc. Sounds like you do too - so just get the price for the car+dest+fees and you can compare offers and figure the rest for yourself.
Car sales are all about supply and demand and if you want something everyone else wants you have to pay more. If you want something that is slow seller, you can deal down really low.
Just try to be realistic about your deals and offers. Don't just pick some number out of the air, use common sense with them. Explain that you think $500 including dealer fees is a fair price for this car - and tell them you know they also get $700 or so in holdback on the car. If they have several on the lot they should be glad to sell you one. Remember that $200 on a $20,000 deal is just 1% - so spending a lot of time and effort trying to "grind out" another few hundred on a deal does not really save you much.
Also check to see if your region has the promo Civic financing (assuming you are not paying cash) - in my area it is 1.9% to 4.9% for any Civic model, Si included. That can save you more over the life of the loan than hours of haggling can save
Dennis
I don't think the dealers can get as many Si cars as they want, so if they are selling the sedans pretty easy w/o much discount then why would they sell you one so cheap? They will not be getting all they want in, and can sell the one you are looking at to someone else for more money. If the sales are slower, then a bit over invoice might be acceptable to them.
Hondas have 3% of MSRP in dealer holdback, but unless they are truly desperate to move the car (like a left over 2006) they normally do not deal down into the holdback. So for your purposes on a new Si sedan you can "forgetaboutit"
I don't know if your goal price is realistic or not. I usually don't buy cars by offering or dealing in "OTD" prices. Get the price for the car with destination and dealer fee(s) included. Compare that number to invoice, if you are within $500-750 on this car then I would say you have a pretty good deal. If it is a lot higher, then try other dealers and offer a lower price. I know how to figure the state and local taxes, tag and title fees, etc. Sounds like you do too - so just get the price for the car+dest+fees and you can compare offers and figure the rest for yourself.
Car sales are all about supply and demand and if you want something everyone else wants you have to pay more. If you want something that is slow seller, you can deal down really low.
Just try to be realistic about your deals and offers. Don't just pick some number out of the air, use common sense with them. Explain that you think $500 including dealer fees is a fair profit for this car - and tell them you know they also get $700 or so in holdback on the car. If they have several on the lot they should be glad to sell you one. Remember that $200 on a $20,000 deal is just 1% - so spending a lot of time and effort trying to "grind out" another few hundred on a deal does not really save you much.
Also check to see if your region has the promo Civic financing (assuming you are not paying cash) - in my area it is 1.9% to 4.9% for any Civic model, Si included. That can save you more over the life of the loan than hours of haggling can save
Dennis
You have nailed my M.O. right there
I don't like these one price stores like Scion or Saturn. I depend on others paying too much so they can afford to sell me my car for cheap. It usually works out. I did manage to get a great deal on my snow day Scion xB but it was a demo/loaner car with about 3k on the clock - but I got it way under the normal price.
Dennis
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Actually, I'll stick my neck out but in these "Prices Paid Forums" it's especially tough.
It's also hard to bite my tongue when I see numbers that didn't happen.