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Bob at Hyannis Honda said they sell them cheap online to make money on an incentive program through Honda. He said they get checks periodically from Honda based on there total sales of waranties.
Oh yea, I was going to pay cash but ended up financing half for 2.9%. At that rate why not right.
I dealt with their internet sales department and negotiated the deal via email. Rusty Wallis was the only Honda dealership in the metroplex that gave me what I asked for: An OTD price via email, and no phone calls until I requested them. There was only one dealer (I don't remember who) that gave me a slightly lower quote, but they hasseled me with phone calls and emails.
I actually negotiated a lower price with Rusty Wallis that did not include the extras; but I eventually opted for the extras for an additional $200. (They initially priced the extras at $1,200.)
(By the way... The sales person I dealt with is no longer there.)
I really don't remember what the actual sale price was but my spreadsheet tells me it was something around $16350 including destination. Probably not the best deal I could have gotten, but considering that my 1997 Civic was recently totalled, and I really needed a car, I am pretty happy with it.
One thing that strikes me as odd about the 2010 Civic is that there is not a maintenance schedule provided. I guess I will just use my owners manual from my 1997 Civic as a reference for the proper time / mileage for a particular service, to see whether the "maintenance minder" is following that guideline. Wouldn't be surprised to see the maintenance minder suggesting service a lot more often.
We put them on cars with alloy wheels but not on steel wheels. Why??
You may find that your maintenance minder actually suggests less service than you did on your 1997. How we drive determines the need for oil changes. A lot of cold starts, short trips and ideling will call for an oil change around 4000 miles.
Long distance drivers may go 7000 before the light comes on.
Some of them are additional mark ups that you don't have to pay because you can negotiate those down or off (like etching, under coating, floor mats, etc.).
When buying a new car, you can negotiate directly with the sales manager thus eliminate one profit center - the salesperson and the related never ending "let me check with the manager" routine.
Instead of them asking you "how much you want to pay for a car, ask them, how much they want to make.
If you have a trade in, don't mention it. That you can add, once you agree on a price.
Always negotiate a car price as if you are paying cash. Many dealers will ask you what monthly payments you are looking for, rather than disclosing a cash price of a vehicle. Agree on a cash price first. The financing (another profit center at dealer's F&I) can be negotiated later.
Last time I bought a new car, I was told $ 300 over "dealer's invoice". Then I went home, did my homework and came back with a figure. I also asked them to show me "the invoice" (and they did) and I was only a couple of dollars off because I was not familiar with the advertising costs that are passed on to a dealer by importer/distributor. You don't have to feel "guilty" about them not making reasonable profit.
You can be rest assured that they made more than $ 300 with all the incentives, holdbacks, dealer's arranged financing, etc.etc.
An honest dealer would have no problem with above suggested procedure although most dealers would not want you to leave and come back "wiser". If he is not willing to do so, move on and find one that will. Above all, don't "fall in love" with the car before you buy it! Keep your emotions at bay!
I have done it many times in several different States - CA, NV, AZ, AL, OK, NY, FL - just to mention a few places, where I have resided.
On the maintenance minder, I can appreciate that it gives a customized schedule for oil changes. But for other maintenance like transmission service, belt replacement, etc. it would be nice to have a schedule so I can budget for those things in advance, for both time and money.
I just got a LX-S Auto for $17,120 OTD. DCH Academy in Old Bridge NJ
Price $16,610 (includes destination of $710)
Tax $205 (trade-in, so YMMV)
TTL $80 (keeping old plates)
Docs $225 (yeah, not liking this)
I was originally looking at the Fit, but at this price, it was a no-brainer to move up to a Civic.
Haggled a bit (mostly on the trade-in), but not too much as their opening bid was spot-on. Overall, not a bad buying experience.
They said they lost money but it being the end of the month it helped their quota.
The only reason I was willing to buy a new Honda is because of the Special Financing since I have a good credit score. They told me I would be approved for the Special Financing if I am a US citizen (considering my credit score).
I called up Honda.com customer service (just to see the reason I got denied), they said they can only deal with the customer who is actually being financed.
It took 5 hours to close the deal with Napleton Honda. I went to Honda City, McGrath Honda and OHare Honda. None of them gave me an OTD quote when I went there but all of them replied me with an OTD in the email.
in the range of most offers I've read here.
Price: $15,170
Dest: $710
NJ Tax (7%): $1,112
Doc Fee: $249
NJ Tire Tax: $7.50
New registration, Tags and Title: $299
Got two free oil changes thrown in there. Also, they combined the above offer with 1.9% APR financing for 60 months.
I looked at several dealers and the lowest I was getting was $17,700. Buying at the end of March really helped as the dealer wanted to get his volume in and was really flexible.
Thanks for everyone's help on this forum !!
Base $14937
Desti $710
NY tax 8.875
dealer fee registration
Thank you all on this forum for the help!!!
Breakdown is
$19100 Vehicle & Dest.
$249 Doc Fee
$1337 NJ 7% Tax
$299 Registration
$7.50 Tire Fee
Put $1000 Down and got 1.9% for 48 Mo which is $801.10 Interest over 48 Months.
Works out to $433.20 A month.
Haven had time to read back through this thread to se what others did. Anyone know how i did? Good, Ok or Bad???
I got an OTD price of 17,808.00 from a dealer in dallas and a very close match from a dealer in houston on a 2010 Civic LX 4dr-sedan . I heard about a $1000 factory to dealer cashback till the end of april . What does it mean and would it help me in getting a lower price than quoted above?
What would be a good starting price to start bargaining ? $17,000 ??
More than likely, the $1000 dealer cash is already factored into the price. Based on my recent purchase experience in DFW, $17808 OTD should equate to a purchase price of about $16450, assuming the fees and taxes are all the same.
One thing you need to watch out for: The dealers I visited put add-ons on all of their cars. The Civics all had the following: window tint, wheel locks, mud guards, door guards, trunk liner. One dealer even had "nitrogen upgrade," which means they just inflated the tires with nitrogen instead of air. Unless it was explicitly stated, these items probably weren't included in the quote, and they'll try to charge more. Each dealer I visited had a different price associated with each add-on.
You should go ahead and try to get $17K OTD. Can't hurt anything. Good luck!
How good is the quote ? Please comment.....
19350.00 Vehicle & Dest.
299.50 Doc fee
648.44 VA tax
35.00 Tags
20332.94 total OTD
If you are using dealer's financing, I would knock another $ 300 off......
Thoughts? Thx from a newbie!
1. Please let me know if these prices seem Ok or should I try to negotiate further down. Remember, these are OTD with the accessories.
Price 1: $20,705
Price 2: $20,831
Price 3: $20,972
Price 4: $21,164
Price 5: $21,721
2. Please let me know how much should remote engine start, fog lights, and splash guards cost. Some prices that I have received from dealers are as follows:
Remote Engine: $ 632, $ 822
Fog lights: $ 499, $ 706
Splash guards: $ 164, $ 184
Some dealers gave a combined price: $ 1,351 $ 1,441
3. Please advise me if I should try to talk them into throwing in free window tints and floor mats. What else would they be willing to throw in?
Thanks for all the replies.
Honda cars of Mckinney.
David Mcdavid Honda of Frisco said they would have beat my deal but by then I had already bought it.
Also if you are looking for trunk liner or cargo tray. I have a used one for 55 or a new one for 75
Email me at craigshak at gmail. com
I am comfortable with the dealer and the deal as long as the warranty will transfer.
Any advice?
Is $19,750 OTD price? or is it car + destination price?
I paid 20400$ OTD for my EX-L.
Let me know...thanks.
Here are my options (as I see them):
- carmax
- costco
- email dealer through Edmund.com (Quick Quote)
Please clue me in as to the best way to go...
I always dread the whole buying process (I am going to pay cash btw)
Thanks.
please give me some recent purchase price with dealer name from NY & NJ area...
Thanks
I have seen price before TTL to be around $15000, with TTL in this area would bring it to about $16500
$800 lower than the lowest
internet quote that I got from just using Edmunds dealer's quote request.
I asked for a OTD from that internet sale person and they said they dont deal with that stuff, told me just to come in and bring the
quote from AMEX. So I drove 1 hour to the dealer, asked for the internet sale person, was told that internet sale people are not license to sell cars and that the regular sale staff would honor whatever quote I got from the internet dept. Then when the sale person started giving me this non sense about
all cars they have in stock have a $1000 special care package applied that protect the paint job etc... (the car did not even look that shinny) and that it was cannot be removed. So I knew right away that something is wrong and started walking out, so they did the usual stuff, making me wait
40 minutes while the sale manager tried to figure out what to do. Finally
the sale mgr came over and said that he cannot give $15108 price and
the 1.9% /60 financing that I qualified. He said that I'll have to pay a 6.9% rate.
He started saying something about dealer incentive and 1.9% and he could not give them both, and I told him that I dont know what dealer
incentive he got from Honda, but that was his business to do whatever he wants with it,
but that the 1.9% is Honda incentive to me and that he has no business
taking that money and lower the cost of his car to make it looks like he
has the best deal while in reality he does not.
So I said no thanks and walked out of there. I ended up paying $15920 for
the same car at a local dealer and get my 1.9 % financing. OTD price
was $17650
So beware of internet places that dont want to give you OTD price in writing before you get there. At the edmunds home page, there is a tab
"car loans" that you can go to to get an idea of what OTD price will be
given the zip code you live in. That OTD calculator is not 100% correct
because it does not take into accound other fee such as doc and tire fees
etc.. but as long as those are small, you can use that to give a good idea
of what the real OTD price should be.
but the best I got from DCH, Oldbridge
Price+ Destination >> $16,000
Tax @ 8.875 % >>$1,420
Docs >> $249
DMV, other fees >> 302
OTD $17,971.00
I seen people quoting 18K for Corolla S.. will try their offer before buying civic
Also, I'd never go for that overcoat paint protection scheme..... I've owned several cars and the original paint jobs tend to last a long time (7 years before they dull). And like you said, I think that over coating does take away from the shine.
I made offer on Civic LX-S to Plaza Honda (Brooklyn, NY) thru their web site.
$16,000 + Destination, Doc, DMV, & Tax $18,680 OTD
A sales rep just called me. They like my offer and will like to do the deal
What you guys think??
I know that MSRP on this car is $19,005 with residual value of 60%.
My FICO is 688. I was told that money factor for this score is 0.00135. Is that true?
Also, all dealerships have a bunch of mandatory add-ons that they want to get paid for. They ask from 900 to 1200 for the add-ons. What would be the safe number to offer for the add-ons? The only one I want is tint.
So far the best price I've got is $16500. That is 1000 below invoice (dealer cash incentive). They are waiving the destination fee of $710. Lets assume I pay 500 for add ons, so TOD is $17K. My calculations say that if I use money factor of 0.00135 I should be paying $199 a month for 35 months (assuming I skip the 1st month). Can anyone tell me if I am correct?
I plan on paying the Texas sales tax (6.25%) and other fees (title, license and dealer's paperwork) upfront cash.
Thank you,
Anelle