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---meter---mile--galon-----mpg----total galon---total mpg
(01) 190----240----17.42----13.8----17.42----13.8
(02) 430----216----15.04----14.4----32.46----14.0
(03) 646----232----18.45----12.6----50.91----13.5
(04) 878----250----18.02----13.9----68.93----13.6
(05) 1128---197----14.51----13.6----83.44----13.6
(06) 1325---250----17.95----13.9----101.39---13.7
(07) 1575---251----18.23----13.8----119.62---13.7
(08) 1826---242----17.08----14.2----136.7----13.7
(09) 2068---232----16.52----14.0----153.22---13.8
(10) 2300---254----17.52----14.5----170.74---13.8
(11) 2554---198----17.07----11.6----187.81---13.6
(12) 2752---188----18.72----10.0----206.53---13.3
(13) 2940---261----18.62----14.0----225.15---13.4
(14) 3201---215----18.17----11.8----243.32---13.3
(15) 3416---185----18.1-----10.2----261.42---13.0
(16) 3601----------15.45------------276.87
Tank No. 1 to No. 10, and No. 13 were 2/3 local (Bronx, NY) and 1/3 high way. Tank No.11 and 12 were entirely local. Tank No. 14 and 15 were mostly local and A/C was on from time to time when it's hot. Tank No. 16 was just added last early this week with Shell. I used Amoco befre.
I noticed one thing about the A/C when I started using it about a month also ago when it was fairly warm. The air came out of the vent was not cold at all (actually, a little bit warm), if the minivan was running idle, such as parked outside a store waiting for my wife etc. I would feel a little confortable only after driving for 5 to 10 minutes. Even then, the air was still not cold at all. I aways had to pump the fan all the way up to 4 (the highest) to feel better, but the noise would become annoying. Is it normal for a minivan? I never had a minivan before. My last car was an 8 years old chevy. It surely had a better A/C than this Sedona.
I just had my oil changed today by a local lube shop rather than going to the dealer, somethin that has become somewhat dreadful thing for me to do from my past experience with the Bronx KIA dealer and service department.
I still haven't tried out the 200 miles highway runtrip that smulvey suggested. Just dont' hav etime to do that. But I will have a trip to PA in the middle of August. I will test it. From my highway driving experience in the last 6 months, I think I should get a good highway mpg. But how good? I shall find out next month.
I am curious. I sent them some detailed info.
Also- your milage , if it is all in the city , maybe " normal" since I do not drive in NYC so I can't say how bad it hurts your milage to live there.
A/C functions- Your A/C should be decent , even at idle. Mine puts out decent cold air , even sitting at idle , for one hour ! Like the time we locked the keys in the car in August on a 90- deg day.
Tips to the wise- have the two green lights on the knobs , one is for A/C compressor , the other recirculates the same air over the cold heat exchanger.
Second tip: turn the rear A/C fan on full speed from your dah controls. This has the effect of moving more air around the car.
You engine idle speed should be automatically at about 800 RPM for this to work.
Good Luck.
Have you converted to Mobil 1 or another synthetic oil yet ?
Anything that interupt the flow will cause a loss of presets.
NOTE: there is a yellow fuse holder that is made to be easy to pull up to turn off the power for service. If this is not pressed down all the way you could have an interuption there. This is located in the black box under the hood with the other fuses.
The other option is that with all the fooling around on the car , they have left the radio connector not push in all the way to the radio. This is easy to fix if you have hands like "E.T" but I assume if it is not the fuse holder , let the dealer guys try to find the loose connector and press it in for you.
good luck.
But it does have a wimpy battery!
The DELKOR battery is most likely a joint venture from Delco and a Korean investor.
Maybe Hyundai.
I would buy a new battery with the maximum Cold Cranking Amps possible , and still fit in your battery tray.
Auto Zone and Advanced Auto have some that are about 1,000 CCA. The higest I have seen is 1200 CCA.
The Delkor is about 650 CCA on a good day.
There are a number of lights on the Sedona and it is pretty easy to leave one on overnight.
I have done this many times.
I know I am going to have to replace the battery this fall to be ready for winter.
I have been told they are pretty minimal compared to other products on other boards here at Edmunds.
Most of the problems are odd things. There do not seem to be rashes of embedded defects. The NHTSA asked Kia to change out the seat bolt fasteners to a different brand with a different hardness.
The ABS brakes have gone to sleep due to a computer program error, that was fixed with new software.
The rear lic plate is screwed directly to the tailgate and it rubs the paint off! unless you protect the paint by putting a sheet of rubber or plastic on the back of the plate.
One man in the Bronx is only getting 10-15 MPG but that seems to be a issue of driving in a crowded city like NYC.
Most of us are getting 20-26 MPG.
The EX has more stuff to fail than the LX which is much cheaper.
The LX is lighter by a bit.
The hitch kit mounts in a 1/2 hour. the wiring adapter takes about 4 hours to install in your driveway. It seems to work great. I towed over 800 miles with a 3500 lb load so far.
I have had a good bit of fun with everyone by arguing you can run the stock KUMHO tires at 44 PSI, which is the sidewall rated maximum pressure.
This has been a minor controversy.
Many people have said I will explode the tires and be killed. I have about 14,000 miles on those tires and so far they lok great.
The car does ride pretty stiff at that pressure, but cornering is GREAT!
$23K is too much in this market...I got a fully loaded 03 EX in late Nov 02 for about $700 below that. Now there is about 3k on rebates. You should be able to get the van for a lot less than $23k fully loaded. Shoot, even with an aftermarket hitch and wiring, I don't have $23k in the car with 100% of the options.
When SMulvey doesn't log in for awhile, we'll all know he rolled the van with mucho gusto and the extra tire pressure got him. Hope he posts the address to send memorials before he goes...he's been a wealth of info. BTW, I read about heat build up in tires, and had to learn about it the hard way when I was younger and threw off tread from all 4 tires after a higher than legal trek across country (can you say cannon ball run?) on a hot day. Paying for 4 new tires was my "punishment"...fortunately, no blowouts, just missing tread.
So far the temperatures in this area do not seem to cause any heat build up in the tires.
I have a question, but I'm not sure if this is a problem or it's just not available. I've notice that when I turn on the front A/C, it's working fine, but with the rear fan, there's no cold air coming out, sometime warm. Is A/C not available for the rear or do I have a problem.
Just my .02
But still, when running locally at a warm to hot temperature (90 degree also), whatever came out of the A/C vent was definitely not cold air. Actually, in one incidence, I did notice the same thing as shooter_2000ca described in his post, warm air coming out of the rear vent, when I was checking if my son who was sitting in his child seat in the second row bench getting proper A/C.
- if you want to better understand it remove the rear vented side wall panel in the right rear corner of the van behind the 3rd row seat.
You will see a HEATER Core with rubber hoses and an AIR CONDITIONING Evaporator. These are the two rear heat exchangers.
On your dashboard you will find a button for the REAR HEATER , on the right hand side of the dash. The button should be OFF except when you want heat back there.
When you want A/C turn on the A/C Button , set to RECIRC on the Fan button , and also turn on the REAR FAN. This will get the engine's A/C compressor going and get both the dashboard A/C and the REAR A/C heat exchanger working for you to cool off the air volume in the car.
When you start to get frozen lips, just turn down the front unit's fan or temperature. You can leave the back running.
There does not seem to be a value control on the rear heat or A/C . It seems like 100% on or 100% off , except by using the Rear Fan you can achieve some level of control.
Mostly I let the kids freeze or broil and I set the system up to benefit me.
Our 2002 EX is still running great and no problems whatsoever. Thieves did break the passenger side window last weekend in a parking lot. The window is $117 and about $75 labor to install. I thought it would be much more and it's way less than the $500 deductible on the insurance so I will just pay for it.
Kia Sedona: Prices Paid & Buying Experience
Thanks!
Steve, Host
or
2003 Kia Sedona LX w/ABS, roof rack, and rear spoiler for $20,700.
Both finance at 0 percent.
Any suggestions as to what you think is better. I can't explain simply why these two vehicles....I guess mostly because the price is in my range....and I need some room to move about but do not necessarily need a van yet (only one baby at this time)...
Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks.
The dealer will try to trick you into paying a Sedona at higher price (i.e. List price) for a 0% financing.
I have a Sedona LX with ABS which I purchased in January. The dealer first offered me $20,470 with a 6% loan. When I told him that I would pay cash. The final price was $18,300 (after a $1,000 rebate). Then I reauested the 0% financing, but was turned down and told that my credit history was not good enough to receive the offer (I have to have a score of 600 plus in order to receive the offer from KIA. Mine was close to 580). Then they offered me a 6% loan for the same price which I agreed upon but found out later that the 6% loan had turned into 8.59% a couple of days later when I singed the contract (of course, a trick from the dealer).
My lesson from all of these was that "Never trust a car dealership" All they are interested in is your money.
Maybe you should just walk away from the dealer if they insist that you have to pay the sticker price to get the 0% financing.
Please see post #3039 in this board.
I have gradually accepted the idea that 11 MPG is a norm driving in the Bronx for a Sedona. It is not worth of my time to try to get help, especially the Bronx KIA dealership and service. So, pretty much I am stuck with my Sedona for the next 5 to 10 years anyway knowing that I will have to pump up a lot of gas. I'll just try not to think too much about the low MPG, but try to think of other good thing about the Sedona, and enjoy this minivan as much as I can. Who knows, it may someday improve the MPG as time goes by.
I'll be making a 300 miles round trip late next month. I'll be able to get a sense of how my Sedona perform on the highway. I'll let you know the results.
If you really are burning that much gas, it might fail. Such a failure would trigger a warranty issue. You might discuss this with a "knowledgeable" individual at the inspection station, if applicable.
Just a passing thought.
The MPG for my Sedona is as real as it can be. I have kept every receipt since my first tank of gas, especially when I noticed that I have to visit the gas station every so often. Also, I want to report to this board what my MPG would turn out to be.
It is the second tank of Shell gas (87), which is different from all the previous gas I used. I don't think I notice any difference in terms of MPG.
If you know my story (post #3039), My application was turned down because I didn't have good (satisfactory) credit. The dealer told me that my credit report showed that I have a credit of 574 points (don't ask me what that means). I need a credit of 600 points to be qualified for the 0% APR car loan. Therefore, I will either have to pay cash or finance through their bank which is Chase-Manhattan bank for a 6% APR car loan.
So, I called the KIA company (USA) yesterday evening. I was trying to ask them the same question as I mentioned above - Why was my applicaiton for a 0% APR car loan turned down? I was told that the KIA company (USA) does not offer 0% APR car loan, rather, the KIA company (USA) only offer the opportunity for the qualified customer to apply for the 0% APR car loan through the Chase-Manhattan bank. And it is totally up to the dealership and its bank (not just the Chase-Manhattan bank) to determine the type of loan that a customer can get. The KIA company (USA) has no control over who qualify for the 0% APR car loan.
If I am the dealer, I would never give anyone a 0% APR loan knowing that I would never make any money out of the loan, no matter which bank is lending out the money. It appears to me if my credit report showed a credit of 574 points, I would have to have a minimal credit of 600 points to obtain a 0% APR car loan. If my credit report showed a credit of 674 points, I would need a minimal credit of 700 points. This is what a dealer would do for him to get the most out of the deal.
Therefore, in a sense, the 0% APR car loan from KIA is just a hoax to lure in the customers. No one will ever get the loan because it doesn't make any sense to the dealership who defines the terms of the car loan.
I hope I am wrong and I hope that many of you actually get the 0% APR car loan as "advertised" by the KIA company (USA).
The number you got is often referred to as a "Beacon" score. The number is based on your credit report(s) and some other factors. Higher is better; here's a link: It Pays to Know Your Credit Report (ABC News)
Steve, Host
At the signing, the finance person made a comment that indicated that it was somewhat unusual to be approved. We are by no means rich (sadly), and our combined yearly is in the 70-80K range. Maybe the 600 Beacon is valid and not floating.
the rebate on the sedona is $2000
that's how the $3000 gets in there and if you are military you get an extra $500
We ended up getting $2500 in rebates for the sedona rebate and the military...should have seen their faces after we negotiated the deal and then I said "and I believe there is a $500 rebate for military personnel that I qualify for" It was priceless...made my day!
Later, when we did the short trip, I let it coast down and back. Going down 28.49 MPG - returning 19.16 MPG for an average of 22.87. Also, when at our destination, that mileage was kept saparately so that there was no underfuelng on the leg down that the leg back made up for.
I wondered why such a divergence in MPGs. The theory that I developed is that changes in altitude between travel points effect MPG. Out of this comes the question - should driving style be different for rising altitude as opposed to declining?
My solution is the following: if you are driving from New York City to the Adirondacks, going there keep it in cruise, and on the return turn off cruise and allow it to coast. Driving to Myrtle - cruise to the N.C. mountains, coast to the beach or the flat plains of S.C. at least. On the return, reverse it.
I believe that this will most optimize MPG, but this raises a question - will this coasting have a detrimental effect on the engine over time or will it have no effect at all?
Your analysis appreciated.
Coasting in neutral is dangerous and illegal I think, but I believe you just mean you let off the gas going downhills.
Here's some gas mileage tips.
Steve, Host
You are right - when I refer to coasting, I mean taking my foot off the gas. Going into nuetral sounds suicidal - speaking of suicidal, I was taken aback that one of the gas mileage tips wasn't inflating your tires to 44 PSI cold.
Also - I watched that on vacation in the Outer Banks "OBX" - Corolla in particular. Our Sedona handled the trip very well and we averaged 20 MPG for the trip and that was hauling 5 bikes on the back Saris bike hitch and a "Thule - Mountaineer" on top. The trip was from Cleveland, OH to Corolla, NC - 600+ miles.
Interestingly I saw about 4-5 Sedona's on the way and way back. In particular right around Winchester, VA last Saturday - I was in tow with two other Sedona's right in a row. It was a good, but odd feeling to have that many Sedona's right close to each other. One was a Metallic Blue and the other was one tone black and of course I and my family in a two tone black/silver.
If any of you were in those vehicles, then it was good riding with you.
Guess i'll have to go digging my book out.
Not sure about the gas light per se.
Okay, I'm a little naive sometimes, but are you serious? If there was a country anywhere that would use Kias as taxis, South Korea would be it--don't you think?
Also, check your owner's manuals about the low fuel warning light. It'll tell you what all your warning lights are--and which ones you have.
LOL
Hmm, I wonder why insurance rates are so high? Could it be the fraudulent claims that people like birthwarrior are making?
No alarm is going to prevent someone from stealing your LCD head restraints.
o.k. like most of you we agonized over whether or not to "roll the dice" and take a chance with the
Kia Sedona. This month marks the 1 year period w/19k on the van.
For us it was the right choice.
We have been surprised at the value for the $$$.
Yes, the lifters do make it sound like a diesel engine on some mornings.
No, it does not "hug" the road like a sedan.
Fuel MPG is acceptable at probably 20-22 w/ mixed driving.
It has VERY comfortable seats! The driver side seat w/ power lumbar is really excellent.
(In fact, I'd be more inclined to buy their Sorento SUV but it doesn't come with the power lumbar seat!! And thats a deal breaker for me.)
The rear seats can be a pain to remove; but they are great (full) seats for the kids on those long road trips. Nooks and crannies are excellent.
No sliding power doors. (A non issue.)
At 10k cheaper than the Honda O---it works for us.
That warranty covers a multitude of sins too.
Final conclusion: So far, so good.
Hope this helps.
Pete & Wendy in NJ
from what i have seen the Sedona drops at least 50% in value in the first year. My cheaper model is going for $ 12,000 used. I paid 19,995 plus tax.
from where they are now they should hold their value much better - not that it really matters at that price.
Thanks
I would be very surprised if Kia is making two completely different floors for the EX and LX models. If it looks like a rear bucket will fit in the middle of your LX give it a try. Just make sure that it latches securely.
On a related note, overseas Kia vans allow you to install the middle seats to face rearward in clubman style. Haven't tried this in our EX yet. Has anyone else?
I'll pay $26 for peace of mind. (Sometimes they throw in a carwash, too.)
the engine coolant is probably fine. when cold the volume is much reduced in the tank. when hot the radiator flows out into the tank and raises the volume. this purges any air bubbles in the cooling system every day. then when you park at night the fuild in the radiator contracts and sucks the contents of the plastic bottle back into the radiator again , leaving the level at the " cold " level you have seen.
the oil can be nay grade of oil from 10-30 to 5-50 synthetic. Since your car is new use the 10-30 or 10-40 to top off until your next oil change.
everything sound normal compared to my Sedona with 26,000 miles on it.
regards,
Thanks again!
Dawn.