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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • It is not the way you drive. I have a 2004 GJL, I put a lot of miles on my car, have 46,000, and my car is in the shop today, same thing, felt like the front was going to fall off. New rotors, some leaky something in the axel. My car is well maintained and serviced faithfully, funny how this was not seen last oil change. Guess I will be paying for this one on my visa, so much for the vacation fund. I think I am going to purchase a Ford Focus and this baby is going to sit Also, lady who sits near me at work, same thing with her Jeep, so don't let them play stupid.
  • tokentoken Posts: 5
    Hey jkram,

    What got me to take it in to the shop was the engine light coming on and it wouldn't go off. I had acclerating problems also, and when I made a hard stop I could feel something rolling (like a heavy barrel) and hitting (boom!). When I was riding in the car with the rental car guy (who I thought worked for Jeep) he said, "I've never heard them describe a car like that" and I said "what do you mean?" and he said "undriveable". I'm glad I went in when I did and not try to travel over the holiday weekend like I had planned.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    I had a '00 Laredo 2wd (also had a '99 almost identical). Rotors warped on the front on both...before the TSB came out. Jeep service refused to replace the rotors under warranty at about 17,000 miles on the '00. I ended up getting replacement rotors from AutoZone for less that $100 for the set that lasted the next 50,000 or so miles until I replaced it with at NON D/C vehicle. These aftermarket rotors did warp when a caliper stuck and heated them up...burned my finger on the wheel they were so hot. Once they cooled down and I got the caliper pins lubed, the rotors un-warped and were fine. The TSB for the brakes 99-02 can be found at and might help your case, expecially since you already paid them $155 (they only wanted $90 to turn my rotors 3-4 years ago.
  • Sounds like the viscous coupler in the transfer case is bad.
    Your year and mileage are about right for this to be suspect.
    This is not a cheap fix, ~$900 for rebuilt unit with new VC
    (per, so you may want to take it to a
    shop that specializes in 4WD for a diagnosis first. If this
    is the problem, you need to fix it soon or it will cause wear
    on the other drivetrain/steering components, thus complicating

    (The viscous coupler is what allows the front and rear wheels
    to turn at different rates when you are making tight turns.)
  • Well, lovetheburg, I just hung up the phone with the service consultant at my dealer who tells me my Cherokee is ready to be picked up. They replaced the rotors, pads, and shoes at no charge. He said there was a service bulletin out for that problem. I asked about a refund on the work from 3 months ago, and he said no. We'll see when I get up there and raise heck about it.

    Good Luck! Maybe I need to go by a GMC at the "employee discount"
  • jkramjkram Posts: 17
    Wow, I never heard of that happening. I've been hearing mostly stumbling and hesitations, and other things. I hope everything turns out allright. Please post what they did to fix it when they do.
    Thanks, jkram
  • scott26scott26 Posts: 1
    How hard is it to work on a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokees rear and front differentials, (ie Carrier, Spider Gears). Is that something that I can do on my own, or should it be left to a proffesional?? Thanks!!!
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    I think the tricky thing is setting the gearlash?
    I'm fairly competent from a mechanical standpoint but I left that one up to the dealer. Mine was a '98 also.
  • 2ejohnson2ejohnson Posts: 2
    I have tried just about everything...water pump, Thermostat, flushing the system, change hoses, changed coolant and sensor. STILL overheating. Please, does anyone have any answers!!!
  • eric091572eric091572 Posts: 13
    I saw this about the fan recently issued -- maybe you have this issue???


    Date: 06/25/05

    Model year(s): 2005

    Description: The 5.7L hydraulic cooling fan is integral to the fan shroud and is located between the radiator and the engine.

    The power steering pump supplies the hydraulic fluid and pressure to rotate the cooling fan blade, while the electrical part of the fan is controlled by the Front Control Module (FCM).

    The hydraulic fan drive (motor) consists of the three major following components:

    * Steering flow control valve
    * Fan control valve
    * Two stage G-rotor hydraulic drive

    The hydraulic fan and drive is not serviceable, except for the fan motor solenoid. Therefore any failure of the fan blade, hydraulic fan drive (except solenoid) or fan shroud requires replacement of the fan module. Because the fan blade and hydraulic fan drive are matched and balanced as an assembly and servicing either separately would disrupt this balance.

    CAUTION: Do not attempt to service the hydraulic cooling fan or fan drive separately, they are serviced as an assembly. Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the hydraulic cooling fan assembly.

    Operation: The hydraulic radiator cooling fan used on the 5.7L gasoline and 3.0L diesel engines replaces both the electric fan and the engine driven mechanical fan. This provides 5.7L and 3.0L equipped vehicles with heavy trailer towing capability while at the same time reducing unnecessary power drain on both the engine and the vehicles electrical system.

    Hydraulic fan strategy: The hydraulic radiator cooling fan is controlled by the Front Control Module (FCM). A Pulse With Modulated (PWM) signal from the FCM controls the fan speed. There are three inputs to the FCM that determine what percentage of fan speed is required by the vehicle. These inputs are:

    * Engine Coolant Temperature
    * Transmission Oil Temperature
    * A/C System Pressure

    By monitoring the desired operating parameters for these three inputs, the FCM can determine if cooling airflow is required. If airflow is required, the FCM will slowly speed up the fan until the parameter(s) are under control. Once the temperature or pressure is reduced to within operating parameters the fan will speed up, slow down, or hold its speed to maintain the temperature/pressure requirements.

    NOTE: Even if the FCM is not requesting fan on operation, the fan blade will usually spin between 100 and 500 RPM when the vehicle is at idle.

    Activating the hydraulic fan with the scan tool (starscan®): Under the Engine Systems test heading, there is a subheading. “Hydraulic fan solenoid test”, that has the selections, on/off. Activating the fan with the StarSCAN® will run the fan at 100% duty cycle, which will help troubleshoot any system problems, and also help with the hydraulic system deaeration procedure.

    NOTE: Engine must be running to activate the fan with the StarSCAN®.

    Radiator cooling fan hydraulic fluid path: Hydraulic fluid is pumped by the power steering pump though a high pressure delivery line to the fan drive motor. As fluid is diverted through one or both G-rotor stages, rotational motion is created as fluid moves from the high-pressure (inlet) side of the motor to the lower-pressure (high pressure outlet) side. Fluid exiting the drive motor is divided into two paths. In path one, fluid continues through a high pressure delivery line to the vehicle steering gear to provide steering assist. This fluid then exits the steering gear under low pressure and travels through a low pressure line to the power steering fluid cooler to be cooled before being returned back to the power steering fluid reservoir. In path two, excess fluid travels through a low pressure line back to the power steering pump fluid reservoir.

    NOTE: There is a steering flow control valve located in the fan drive motor. This valve operates like the flow control valve found in the typical power steering pump. A failed pump and/or fan drive can produce contamination that may cause the steering flow control valve to stick.
  • fsmithfsmith Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Rocky Mountain edition) with the 4.7 engine. I bought it in May and have driven it 3,400 miles. I will take it back to the dealer next week for the fourth time since the beginning of June. The vehicle hesitates/stutters/bucks at speeds from 40 to 65mph. The problem is more noticeable from 40-50 and around 65. The service department is saying that they cannot detect the problem on their computers. They did find problems with two of the spark plugs and changed them. Unfortunately that did not fix the problem. Several of the service people have driven it and confirmed the malfunction. Twice they've told me it was fixed only to have to bring it back. They said they would get Chrysler involved when I take it in next week.

    This is extremely frustrating.

  • jkramjkram Posts: 17
    Yeh, you got the problem. I've had mine since Dec. 2004. They have not fixed it yet. I am a Jeep enthusiast, and I hate to give up on Jeeps. But believe me when I say, I have lost many a nights sleep over this. I have been told they are working on it. I am going to wait one more week. I have only put 2,400 miles on it because it is REAL anoying to drive.
    If you know how to get the build date off the door sticker I would love to know the date. Mine was built on Nov.10, 2004. One of the first 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokees built. The Rockys are pretty recent.
  • rsotorsoto Posts: 1
    some times it starts right up but I've noticed that when its hot it will just turn over and over. wait 10 or 15 min and she starts right up...HELP, in El Paso
  • fsmithfsmith Posts: 2
    Mine was built in March 2005. The main reason I've put 3,400 miles on it is because I live in Dallas/Fort Worth and my commute to work is quite a distance. The more I drive it the more frustrasted I get. I traded a 2001 Jeep Wrangler for this one and never had a problem with it. I'm hoping something positive will happen next week. However, I've also checked out the Texas Lemon Law and may eventually have to go that route if I cannot get it fixed. Are they also telling you that they cannot detect a problem on their computers?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Check out the "No Start" Problems discussion while waiting for responses in here.

    Steve, Host
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Sounds like a fuel problem.
    I replaced the fuel pump on my '98 when it started to take longer to turn over and I have never had a problem since.
    Your options are to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and check it when you have that problem or just replace it.
    I did it myself so it wasn't that expensive. It was a bit of a pain though since the fuel pump is in the tank so you have to drop the tank to get to it.
  • jkramjkram Posts: 17
    Yes, there is no DTC's stored in the computer from this problem. I am a mechanic for heavy equipment, so I know enough about it. I know quite a few people with the same complaint. I just got back from a ride and I will agree, it is frustrating. I have the Hemi and at first we thought only Hemis have the problem, but the 4.7 v8 can too because people are posting on the Internet. Thanks for the build date info.
  • hes my problem my interior lights go on when i shut off the car when i start the car the lights go off i have to pulled the fuse so my battery does not go dead seems like something is sending a signal to the light mod to keep them on
    this problem seem to start after we had rain in ny here for a few nites

    some 1 else here had that problem looking to find the light mod and the security mod the location
    any help on this would be great
    check all the door jams swithes they are ok
    Bobby nyc
  • kengaroo1kengaroo1 Posts: 2
    Have a 94 Grand Cherokee, 4.0 with an auto tranny. Has been fairly problem free till a month ago. It cuts out or "misses" at rpm higher than 1600 during the period it takes the engine to completely warm up, especially the mornings. After warm up, around 10-15 minutes of driving, it runs fine unless the rpms are over or around 2700-3000, and it will "sometimes" miss or cut out then. 3 repair shops have not figured it out. Any clues?? Replaced the crank sensor 3 days before the probelm started to occur. Shops replaced cam sensor and fuel filter, cleaned and drained entire fuel system. Never stalls, or misses at idle or up to 1500 rpm. Does seem to be getting worse, in the fact it is missing or cutting out even after warm up phase now. Also replaced plugs, wires, rotor, and dist. cap.
  • godhelmgodhelm Posts: 2
    I had the same problem. They diagnosed sludge in the oil and took the oil pan off, replaced the oil pump, oil screen, sending unit, and flushed out. This all cost me $900. You may be able to get the job done cheaper if you shop around but, if you have sludge, it needs cleaning out. Let me know how you get on.
  • godhelmgodhelm Posts: 2
    My 1996 JGC (105,000 miles) has been a great drive and ride up until the past year or so. Past 90,000 miles it began to develop a vibration that has been getting progressively worse. It can be felt through the steering wheel and sometimes through the seats. It occurs when standing still and idling as well as when driving on the highway. It is worse in drive than in park and disappears when in neutral. It is much less pronounced on smooth road surfaces. One Jeep specialist told me that it's not bad enough to bother to chase down, but it's probably a worn engine mount. Replacing two engine mounts and one transmission mount (while the engine is lifted) would cost an estimated $350 to $400. This Jeep ran like a dream before this problem developed and still runs and drives well, in spite of the age and mileage. I'd like to get the vibration fixed and keep this vehicle another year or two. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of vibration and suggestions about a solution?
  • tap2tap2 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 JGC Laredo that if I hit a kill switch...happens at idle or 60 miles an hour. It usually starts right back up but obviously this is annoying and hazardous. I have replaced the distributor, plugs, and wires but none of those solved the problem. Any ideas?
  • My 98 Grand is driving me crazy I replaced 4 ball joints and front cv boots on drive shafts then the problems started my front diff carrier bearings went so I replaced them too I got the diff set by a jeep mechanic but both front and back diffs are still heating up and she is not happy turning? It is a quadra trac manual 2.5 turbo diesel and my jeep and I live in Ireland.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    The gray plastic connector you mention, did you have to remove the glovebox to see it? I have a black plastic connector of similar description at the top edge of the carpet from which the drain tube goes through the firewall, but no refrigerant lines. They enter high on the firewall.
  • Front diff replace is no big deal...I live in Ireland and got the bearings in a local bearing store Tere are three main bearings but if your lucky you will only need the two that go out to the wheels.the diff will need to be set up exactly right but is only a matter of getting some one with a guage for setting the crown wheel to a 0-20 degrees play over all around the wheel.Thats it no big-e and dont let anybody tell you any different. :)
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    That definitely sounds like it could be a motor mount.
    It should be fairly easy to get underneath the truck and look at the mounts. If you see any cracks in them, they need to be replaced.
  • funguns....before I run out and buy a transfer case let me tell you about the symptoms on my '94 JGC I'm experiencing to compare to yours...
    Generally the '94 JGC that I have doesn't make any odd sounds until I slow down to turn into a driveway or parking lot. When I slow down I get a wrrrrr wrrrr wrrr sound from both the front and rear as I round the corner. As I straighten the JGC out the sound goes away. The same thing happens if I turn left. I also noticed a front end wheel-hopping sensation and reluctance by the JGC to turn sharply into a parking spot and it even happens when I reverse out of the parking place....the wrrr wrrr wrr sound almost sounds as if all the tires are rubbing the wheel wells at once. My tires are original so I know it is not that. The transfer case causes all this noise? :confuse:
  • hilhil Posts: 1
    Does your radiator get super hot or it is cool? If it is really hot, you more than likely have a faulty radiator.

    Good luck!
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    I have a 97 JGC and the AC doesn't blow cold air. I think I know why it won't blow cold, but I'm not sure how to fix it or why it's doing what it's doing, so here goes:

    At first I thought the system needed to be recharged (which still may be the case) but as I continued to troubleshoot, I found that the refridgerant line with the access port gets extremely cold when the AC is turned on so that tells me there is at least some charge left. But that is the only line that gets cold. There are two larger lines that look like they cycle to/from the compressor and they actually get hot as the engine continues to run. So here's the thing, the clutch (center part of the compressor) clicks and starts rotating (which I think is supposed to happen, right?) but then it kicks right back off. My understanding is that the clutch spinning is what actually cycles the freon, so if the clutch doesn't keep spinning it won't cycle the freon...right? Anyway, the clutch just keeps turning on and then back off...on for about 3 seconds, off for about 10 seconds. I live in Italy right now and the mechanics around here are extremely expensive (someone told me they paid 70 Euro (about $90) for an oil change, not to mention the language barrier scares me a little. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I really don't want to have to take this to a shop. Thanks.
  • prm01jgcprm01jgc Posts: 1
    I have a '01 GC laredo. At 11500, 15000 miles I had taken the jeep back to the dealer for brake problems. Both time were warped rotors. The 3rd time(35,000miles), being a mechanic and out of warranty I went to NAPA and bought there rotors and installed them. No problems since. I now have 113000 miles with only one brake pad change interval since.
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