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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • :sick:

    My engine light recently came on. With the snow, I turned off O/D to slow down faster on slippery roads. Is there any reported issues with the 04 SEs and the O/D feature? Am I safe to continue to drive the vehicle until I take it in on Monday?

    Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    For what it is worth, my '97 JGC also occasionally does the gas gauge empty and ding thing on and off. In my case it almost always is when I have a full tank but I do not get an engine light and the engine always continues to run fine.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    If you are getting an engine light, take it to your local auto parts store. Most these days will run a diagnostic test on it for free telling you what parts are acting up. More than likely you have one or more sensors giving bad info. to the engine computer.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    I believe you may have a display box located at the center bottom of your dash, in front of your shifter. It should have a picture of your jeep drive train indicating what mode the vehicle is in.Flat screen near lighter plug?
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    Just wondering if it is better to attempt changing my transfer case gastket and pan gasket to my trans or take it to the shop. Neither look to hard to do, BUT , the transfer case scares me alittle since I'v never done one.Any thoughts?Any tips on doing this job? Thanks in advance.This would be on my 96jeep grand cherokee. Just started leaking from both gaskets. Been a great vehicle. 88000 and still running strong. Like it so much, bought a 2004 limited new. 14000 on it and everything is great.
  • I have a 98 GCLTD - Selectrac, it has been nothing but problems, and I love it so much. When you go to change out of 4WD, it bunnyhopps, and clunks and sounds like the whole thing is going to fall apart (of course every man who has ever gotten into it has to change it). I've been driving in 4WD for a year now, which is fine, but.....last year, someone put two different sized tires on the front, and just after there was a terrible clunking in the front passenger side. It continues to clunk, and now its started a squeeking sound (I roll up the windows not to hear it). Finally, the drivers door doesn't close properly, and my locks click continually, and now I've been told the catalytic converter is broken off inside (Of course my e-test is scheduled already). WHAT'S GOING ON WITH IT? I've replaced the ball joint, rad, had the transfer case fluid checked, and of course, changed the tires. I'm scared to take it in, afraid I'm going to have to re-mortgage my house to fix it? Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.........
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    Have you considered calling the QE2 cruise ship to find out of they are one anchor short???... ;) :shades: ;)
  • Been a lurker up to now and find this site very helpful. My thanks to all with answers. I have a '96 GCLtd with ~160,000 miles. Had my share of differential problems but Chrysler has been good and I continue to love her dearly.

    I'm looking at replacing tires (already checked Edmund's prior threads) and will be opting for Michelin 10-ply truck tire (did this previously and they last forever). Since they are pricey, I'm wondering whether I need to do all 4 tires at the same time. One tire (same Michelin 10-ply) was replaced about 20,000 miles ago and the tread still looks perfect. btw, these tires seem to go for 100,000+ miles on my Jeep.

    Can I get away with just replacing 3 or should I go with all 4? Lately the rig has been limited to city driving, but I'm looking to use her for highway cruising to the ski hills in the next couple of years.

    Money isn't a killer issue but one always wants to save a buck if possible, particularly as the 4th tire still looks great.
  • Same year, Exact same problem.I had the speed sensor in the tranny replaced but didnt do any good.I'ts a real pain cause it never does it when I get to the shop.Did it last week so bad I thought the tranny was gonna shell out.Please keep me informed if you find the answer to this.Thanks
  • If I were you, I would buy 4 new tires and keep the one you talk about for a spare. This way you have a good spare that matches and don't have to worry about un-even wear on your new ones :)

    Good Luck!

    BTW, I have just purchased some BFG All Terrain Tires for my '98 Cherokee Sport and they're just amazing in the snow or on the trails and suprisingly quiet on the highway.
  • I have had this problem for some time, and last week it stopped all on it's own. My car was doing it all the time as soon as I went up a slight slope, I had to press the OD button. One day it stopped. I don't know what caused it or why it stopped. I can only hope it doesn't return.
  • Changing the pan gasket is easy, and a little messy. You will want to change the trans filter while your there. when you get most of the bolts off, leave two rear bolts on but unthread them half ways, so when you pry the pan off it doesn't spill all over you and anything else. This will drain most of the fluid, and let you take the last two bolts off, without having to balance a pan full of fluid in 1 hand.
    Changing the tranfer case(tc) gasket is a little more work.
    First mark the relationship of the rear driveshaft to the rear differential(so to install it correctly), and remove the driveshaft from the rear diff.(the front part slides out of the tc)
    Remove all wiring, and linkages from the tc, and then remove the tc from the rear of the transmission. There is a rear seal for the transmission, (which is why the tc gasket is leaking), and this will need to be replaced, as well as a new gasket for the tc.
    Be aware that a tranfer case may look small but, this unit is heavy, and should require 2 people to uninstall, and reinstall it. I suggest that you get a Hanyne Repair Manual, as this will give you step by step instructions on how to fix just about everything on your jeep.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Select trac meaning you can change in/out of 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive to 4 low?, or does this mean all time 4 wheel drive that can be changed to neutral, or 4 low?
    If it's the first then, you have a problem. I don't suggest that anyone run thier vehicle in 4 wheel drive all year, as would cause $eriou$ problems to the drive train. As for the second one, then this system is built for it, as it has an internal vista clutch that determines when your conditions require true 4x4 times.
    Putting two different sized tires on the front end was a very bad idea to begin with, and probably resulted in you needing some work done to front differential.(putting 2 different sized tires on is like: trying to run a marathon with a 6 inch platform shoe on one side, and nothing on the other).
    The clunking noise you hear from the front passenger side, may be the constant velocity joint, that is part of the front axle, may be worn out and needs to be changed. The whole axle need to be changed, and is relatively easy to do. I have replaced both of mine on a '95 JGC limited, for about $125.00(cnd) per side. As for the squeeling sound, sounds like your low brake pads indicator, may be touching the rotors, indicating that you need to change the brakes. On the other, more expensive hand, You may have caused extensive bearing damage to your front differential, and these will have to be replaced.(these are not easy, or cheap to do). Talk to the dealership about what needs to be done to repair this damage, and post your findings, and mabey i can give you a online hand as to your cheapest and best bet to repairing the damage.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Have you tried to replace the auto start relay itself?
    As time goes on, relays have a tendancy to act finnicky, and will open, close , open ...ect and then work, or not.
    Replace the auto start relay along with the fuel pump relay, and check your fusible links to the fuel pump relay to see if and are burnt. Make sure you check all your fuses, and make sure they are the correct ones for that designated spot.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    You have a bad position sensor in one of your doors. I know, it's worst thing to hear that horn blasting in the middle of the night.
  • I guess maybe I wasn’t persistent enough with my question and being new to the forum I probably didn’t use the correct process for posting a question. Every time I clicked on Rules Of The Road nothing happens! Guess this is a private club!

    Never the less, if anyone is interested if found the problem; it was the ECM.
  • I had the same problem with my 93 jgc.
    I would turn the key to the crank position and it would turn over but wouldn’t start. I found that if I would turn the key to the run position for a bout 20 to 30 seconds the fuel pump would fire and the engine would start. I checked to see if I had power to the pump when the key was turned on and I was receiving NO power for about 30 seconds.
    Long story short, after trouble shooting this problem for quiet awhile I found that when turning the key to the run position that the check engine light did not come on. After I would wait for a while the light would come on and the pump would fire. The problem turned out to be a lethargic the ECM.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    The Rules of the Road link was flaky for me last week - it's supposed to open in a new window. A pop-up blocker may be stopping it from opening on your browser.

    Thanks for adding to the JGC knowledge base!

    Steve, Host
  • So yesterday my JGC deceided it didn't want to idle. Anything under 5mph and the rpm's would drop, and the car would kill, so I drove around with two feet yesterday. This morning my car won't even start. I charged the battery, and only clicks. Is it something easy, or.... I'll be the first to say I don't know much about this stuff, please help me..
  • Hi all,

    I have a '99 JGC Limited with Quadra-drive and the 4.7L V8. I've had it for 8 months, having purchased it used from a private party, and I really enjoy driving it. Recently it's been malfunctioning, and in searching here I haven't seen anything quite like this problems, so hopefully someone will have some insight. The five-star dealer it's with now is stymied.

    One morning last week it wouldn't start, having been running perfectly prior to that. Hauling it to the nearby dealer, they said there was no signal from the camshaft position sensor. They replaced it, along with my front brakes (I mention it in case it's relevant), it fired up. I drove it less than 5 miles and it started stuttering on acceleration once it got warm. I got it to highway speeds, but eventually I had to stop again, and it stalled and would not start.

    I hauled it into the dealer again, who diagnosed it as a crankshaft position sensor failure. They were a bit skeptical of this, because they hadn't seen both fail like that before. They test-drove it successfully but I suspect it wasn't fully warm yet, and it worked fine. I picked it up, drove two miles, and it stuttered and died on acceleration again.

    When it dies my tachometer goes absolutely nuts, and the speedometer drops to zero. The other gauges show accurate readings if I recall correctly. The "check engine" light comes on, and the Jeep will not restart. It will not restart if I let it sit for a while.

    Do you guys have ideas for me to try? I was thinking that maybe it could be fuel-related since it is happening on acceleration, but that's probably just me using old carbureted-engine troubleshooting. Any suggestions are more than appreciated!
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Wow, 10 ply truck tires. Never thought of that.
    I just put Mich LTX M/S on my 01 Laredo a month ago. Only 2 minor snow events here in MN so far but they've done well, as would be expected based on tirerack ratings. They are very quiet and good in general wet/dry road handling too. We'll see how they do when we get our 6-8" or more dump later this winter. BTW, my OEM GY Wrangler SRAs went 70k miles doing a 5 tire rotation, which works out to be 55k for 4 tires. Can't fault them for running that long, the dealer could not believe it either.
  • for some time now my wipers have only worked on the last two settings on my 95 jgc. i don't know if it's the motor or the switch. it started doing it one winter when i was too lazy to wipe the snow off by hand and used the wipers. i have to turn the switch to get the wipers to stop at the bottom. and anyone out there have an extra keyless entry remote they want to get rid of?
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Can't help with the wipers, however you should check E-bay for the keyless entry remote. They have them super cheap and you may find that some even include the keys. You will have to get them cut however.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    Thanks for the tips, it will make my job easier.Have a good day
  • I have been having the same problem with the wipers on my JGC as well. I was told it might be the intermittent control box But I have not checked it out yet. I was wondering if you have gotten to the root of the problem yet and if so let me know what it may be. Thanks
  • lsuhlsuh Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem.... won't start, have it towed and starts in front of the mechanics. Did you get any good tips? Trying to figure out how to see any replies you may have received...
  • Hello we have enjoyed our '97 JGC except from time to time the engine dies. Prior to last Monday, it had always been upon coming to a stop or going very slow. Last Monday it died at 70mph. Restart is alwasy successful, but the "co-pilot" tool cannot detect the problem. I have change the crank sensor and still the same problem, dies whenever and where ever and always restart very easy.. I need help please.. have anyone have this same problem
  • I'm new to the site and have been reading most of your messages, but I may have missed my problem/solution. My JGC takes about 10-20 minutes to start some mornings, mostly when it rains. It cranks,sputters,chugs,and dies. When it does start, it runs like nothing was ever wrong. I've sealed all ignition parts with di-electric grease and replaced cap,rotor,plugs,and wires. After it is warm it still starts hard, but much better. There are no engine lights or problem indicators. Fuel? ECM?
  • I'm confused with the maintenance necessary for the front and rear axles. The dealer recommends draining and refilling the axles every 12,000 miles (for a hefty $180), while three independent shops (Strauss, Firestone & Goodyear) have never heard of such and say it is not necessary. In the owners manual, the normal driving maintenance schedule "A" has no mention of this requirement for the entire life of the vehicle. It is only in the severe maintenance schedule "B" (severe hot or cold driving conditions, towing, off-road, commercial service) that this is recommended every 12,000 miles. The dealer is saying follow B even though my driving meets the standard for an A schedule. I want to do what is right for the vehicle, but I don't want to get charged for unnecessary maintenance. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?
  • Thanks for the suggestion to go with replacing all 4 tires. I will follow it as it makes sense and I can always reuse them when we buy another rig in a couple of years. Those 10 plys last forever - even when I drop the pressure a bit to make them ride smoother.
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