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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    I don't know what's going on with the switch, but usually you can take a screwdriver to the latch and force it back to the normal position so that you can close the hatch. Maybe this post will help:

    kyfdx, "BMW X3" #2211, 23 Oct 2005 5:51 pm

    btw, ALL CAPS is hard to read and lots of people just skip over those posts.

    Steve, Host
  • Sorry about the CAPS lock.... Before I posted this message I had already tried the handle/screwdriver thing with no success either. I'm getting frustrated with this Jeep all together. I'm not sure if the door handle on the rear hatch is working at all since I've had problems getting it to open. I hate to take it into a mechanic and get raped over something so simple...but I don't know what else to do. :confuse:
  • Ok, after writing this post I went back outside and tried the same method I've had to use to open the rear hatch with the help of my daughter continuous pushing of the lock and unlock while I pulled down with the screwdriver and it worked!!!

    I guess all I needed to do was write a post to get the creative juices flowing and I was able to solve the problem I created.

    Thanks for your imput. :D
  • It sounds like your transmission is going out. If your MPH are at 60 and your RPM's drop and then increase with a boost to 80 MPR it sounds like your transmission needs work. My 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD is having the same issues right now with 158k miles on it. So I've been driving my husbands 2000 Camaro SS around while he's deployed.
  • I have a 95 JGC with 259,000 miles. I must have got a good one compared to some of the stories I've read. It's been out of commission for about 2 years because of transmission. I dropped it myself and had a friend at work rebuild it, total cost $650.00 for parts and his labor. After re-installing it and doing a oil change, it fired right up and has been driving great. My wife drove it and the speedometer quit working. Has anyone ever had a problem with the speedometer, could it be a sensor? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • 2002 G.C. L 4.0 with select tract. After coming to a stop. When I release the brake there is a shudder or bang like something is sticking. Dealer put in new drive shaft about 15,000 mi. and problem came back after about 10,00 more miles and can not get him to discuss the problem again. any one seen this before??
  • image1997 Grand Cherokee:
    My blower motor will not cut off unless i remove the maxi fuse. I replaced the "resistor" but did not correct the problem.
    when i replaced the resistor the it was extremely hot to the touch?
  • My blower motor will not cut off unless i remove the maxi fuse. I replaced the "resistor" but did not correct the problem.
    when i replaced the resistor the it was extremely hot to the touch?
  • I have a problem with my JGC and have no idea what it could be. Driving down the street and heard a loud pop like something hit the underside of the car. A minute later, a little dust of smoke and antifreeze everywhere along with broken pieces of hard plastic. The Radiator??? How could this have happened, what is sthe problem? Any suggestions are appreicated. THANKS!
  • I need to know a couple of things about this Jeep. 1) Where did they hide the fuses? My Haynes manual says they are under the kick panel on the right side but they are not there. 2)The front wipers do not work on the intermittent setting. I am guessing that the problem is the intermittent wiper module but I have no idea where that is. Any help? Please?
  • jenwjenw Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 JGC Laredo 5.2L V8 all time 4x4. It has 125K on it and still runs great. I started only driving it periodically after gas prices became stupid. With the inactivity I started seeing drops of transmission fluid under it. The leaking started getting worse as time went on. I see where it is leaking on the back of the tranny, I think it is a worn out gasket. I also see fluid dripping off the tranny pan but for the life of me I can't see where it is coming from. My question hard is it to replace the gasket on the back of the tranny and on the pan? Will I have to drop the entire tranny? How long would it take a non experienced person to do it? I've never worked on the tranny before so I'm a little apprehensive about it. I replaced the water pump awhile back on my own as my brother said "it isn't that difficult". I will never take his word for working on any vehicle again.......Took me 4 days to replace it and to get it to stop leaking fluid after the install.
  • Didnt see any other post with this problem so here goes. It is an intermittent problem so its hard to fix. While driving at normal speeds the tranny acts like its going in and out of lock-up. You can watch the tach and it will jump up 200-500 and then back to normal. This will continue until you speed up and the vehicle downshifts or hit the overdrive button. Seems like it does it worse while cold but also does it hot. I can drive sometimes a week and no problem and then do it everyday for a week. Any suggestions.
  • I don't know if this will help you or not but I had a similar problem after taking my 2001 JGC in for repairs. Everything worked fine when I dropped it off then the mechanic called and asked if I had any problems in the past with my power windows to which I replied no. Anyways to make a long story short I found that the problem was caused by the hood lamp being disconnected. Not only did my power windows stop working but also the interior lights, temperature reading on the overhead, miles till empty, trip counter automatic headlamps, seat memory etc. One plug caused all of those problems. I would also check fuse number 7 which is a 10 amp fuse that is tied to all of these options. The mechanic spent over 8 hours (which he did not charge me for) to look for the problem. When I told him what I had found he said they unplugged it to keep the battery from dieing while they worked on the engine.
  • I have a 1990 jeep cherokee that will completly die when I come to a complete stop at a light. When it dies I can then just start it right back up in neutral. I'm thinking that it might have something to do with the idle because if I do stop and it does not die the car will tend to shake somewhat. Anyone have an idea? Thanks.
  • jenwjenw Posts: 3
    My husband decided to be lazy and drive my Jeep today. He was too lazy to put gas in his car so he took the only vehicle that doesn't have full coverage on it. Of course, he wasn't paying attention and had a "little" accident. I'm looking at bare minumum replacement of my drivers side front panel, hood, bumper, headlight assembly, turn signal, etc. Anyone have a good place to by these types of parts to be installed privately?
  • Honugirl asks if anybody has experienced the problem of a Grand Cherokee stalling out shortly after starting (same problem I'm now experiencing). Your reply about "death wobble" doesn't seem to make sense here? What about stalling out right after starting?
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717 has all of the parts you're searching for.
  • Your lockup siloniod has gone bad. It is located inside the tranny under pan. "GET IT FIXED" befor long the trans wont shift at all, and it will burn fast '
  • i currently have the same problem with the quadratrac 2 transfer case, on my 02 grand cherokee, i have already replaced the drivers wheel bearing and axle, at seperate times, due to this problem, i think it should be a dealer problem. i would now never suggest anyone ever buy a jeep from now on. i work on newer vehicles everyday and never knew of the problems with a jeep until i owned one. i thought they were good. too bad, please help with any solutions to my problem. of course this is not the only problem with the truck. the motor ticks at idle too, imagine that. any answers?
  • I have a 1988 Jeep Cherokee that does that too! Seems the idle is not high enough. I have been told that the idle adjusts automatically, can't set it like other cars.I know I need an accelerator/throttle cable, and hope when that is replaced it will fix the problem. Have you checked yours? I should know more early next week. I believe mine has to be in park to start back up, does not work in neutral, but not for sure. Another thing that's happening is sometimes it doesn't get fire to start........can't get it to happen when it's at the garage, so they can check it then! AWK!
  • My 89 Cherokee 4.0 liter intermittently dies or won't start after short trips. I've replaced the alternator, gas filter, wires, and distributor cap and can't seem to locate the problem. It's like possessed! It is getting gas so there seems to be some sort of problem with the spark?
  • I actually had the same problem! I have a 2000 JGC and was driving tonight, heard an explosion, got out to look and saw my car was pouring out fluid. when i looked under the hood, i saw pieces everywhere. all i could figure was a fan exploded and took out everything in its path including my radiator. i am going to contact jeep tomorrow. let me know if you have heard anything.
  • I have the same problem. Car will crank but takes about a minute to start. This is the killer...If I rock the car and turn the car to the on position, I can hear the fuel pump for a sec or two and the car will start perfectly and will re-start after running for 15-20 minutes. I live in NJ and noticed the problem when the temp dropped below 60 degrees. Seem similar to your problem?
  • I'm having the identical problem. To add to it when I rock the car, in most instances, will trigger turning on the fuel pump when the ignition is in the on position. I thought it may be the relay. Any progress on your end?
  • my nightmare started after my stereo was stolen, my "friend" installed a new one, and tried to rewire for the speakers.Yes, I know this wasn't the best idea, however FIVE shops have not been able to determine cause. My driver side windows work 99% of time, power lock on driver only. Occaisionally passenger windows will work, but only until the next time you turn off the car.Once a month the entire instrument panel will not work , and will come back at it's convenience, usually after an hour of being left alone. Funny thing is, the radio always works, and the windows and locks are good, just not getting power. WHAT IT ISN'T: master switch, relays, wiring (most has been replaced in doors). What the heck can I do? any help very appreciated!! ps. I just read about the hood light, will check. I do know there is a ground behind the radio, and all my fuses are good (BOTH fuse panels)
  • Remove the idle air control sensor, and clean the tip of it, and clean the inside where it came from on the throttle body. Varnish and such makes this sensor stick, and gives the ecm a faulty reading, resulting in stalls.

    hope this helps you.

    P.S you may have to replace the idle air control sensor. good luck m8.
  • I would suggest that you take the vehicle in to a dealership to have the transmission put onto a scope to check all the sensors(20+ of them). While they have the vehicle there, have them change the fiter, and adjust the bands,(forward and reverse); as these bands can be adjusted manually.

    hope this helps you m8.
  • I suspect the problem lies in your electronic fuel pump foot-valve,( a one-way valve ), it keeps the fuel in the line from draining back into the tank. Unless this problem really, and i DO mean really, bothers you then you can replace the electronic fuel pump. This operation takes about 4 hours, and $200; NOT to mention that you will be discarding a nearly-pefectly good pump.

    Most pumps are not re-servicable, and need to replaced as a whole. You might want to check to see if you have a slight fuel leak at any and all connections on the fuel lines from and to the fuel tank; as this may be the culprit. most leaks occur at the fuel filter, as this gets changed frequently.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • First of all, can you see where the bolt has to go into?
    If you can then try this. This requires two people and some patience. One person has to align the exhaust pipe in relation to where you want it to be, next get a piece of rubber hose and insert it over the bolt to give you a reachable extra hand. Sometime the hose is not completely straight, so a piece of wooden doweling inserted into the hose is quite helpfull in helping to thread the bolt in correctly. With a little trial and error you should be able to accomplish your task at hand. P.S. the rubber hose also will prevent you from cross-threading the bolt, which can lead to more problems and headaches, and lots of swearing.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • As for question #1, your front wheel bearings are going out, and fast. Regardless of of which side, it does not matter, both sides will need to be replaced. This is a common problem on most 2 wheel drive suv's. You did not specify if the vehicle is a 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive. If this is a four-wheel drive jeep, then post it on the forums, as i will be watching.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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