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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • I just bought another used 95 cherokee sport. It had no remote with it. how do I tell if it had one and if so how do I go about getting one also horn does not work could the system be disabled causing the horn not to work. When you push the button on wheeel it clicks under dash but no horn Thanks
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    if you get a click -but no horn,it's either unplugged,or bad..
    --find the horn-usually on the radiator core support,and check the connection..hook up a circut tester,..if it lights up,or you get a digital-12v reading(depending on what kind of circut tester your using-the horn's bad..-try putting a hot wire to the horn terminal..if it sounds,then there's a bad it down,and fix bad contact..

    --autozone sells replacement might even try chrystler's parts dept..they can look up the serial number(your V.I.N.-take your car's registration paper into the parts dept-it should be on there..simpler than trying to write it down-and getting a number wrong!)
    -the v.i.n should tell you every option your jeep had when it was built..most of the grand cherokees i've seen have remote,but why they didn't add remote start?..that's the feature that works for me,as ohio gets cold,and climbing into a warm car is SO O O nice,when it's -20 BELOW..
    -good luck!
  • My truck has been out of commission for a while now. I'm thinking that its my fuel injectors after inspecting several sensors. Here is what my JGC does when i try to turn it on:
    1). As I try to turn it on it makes a clicking noise
    2). when it does turn on the motor accelerates as if i was stepping on the gas and the RPM shoots up.
    3). After a few seconds of (step 2) the RPM drops down as the acceleration decreases dramatically to a point were it wants to turn off. It continues to dance on the RPM scale from 1k RPM to 500
    4). When i would step on the gas pedal it wouldn't respond only if i were to press it down several times. but it would come in delay periods in between after i press the pedal.
    5).Finally it turns off on its own or when i try to shift it to reverse or drive.

    It be the obvious thing to take it to the mechanic but money is a lil tight right now so I'm open to any suggestions from anyone out there. :sick: :confuse:
  • I found it. Now I have another queston. The leads go upward towards the firewall and between the engine. How do I pull the wires down to get to the end to unplug lt?. Will the wires come down enough to unplug them?. Do I have enought wires
    before the plug end to unplug and install new sensor? If not how do I get to the plug end to do the replacement?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You need the Haynes repair book to work on this; about $20. Read and follow all safety recommendations.

    Just about everything I describe below is in their book. You may spend some $ and get no results, but it should not be big $.

    Make sure battery is fully charged and tests OK. Where I live, Autozone does it for free. Make sure terminals are securely connected and free of corrosion.

    The click you here is the solenoid energizing the starter, but the starter can't turn. But sometimes the starter cranks the engine. I had this problem. According to my mechanic the starter develops bad spots. Based on your symptoms you will probably have to put in a new starter. Take a picture of it before you remove it so you can compare it to your installation. It's usually not too difficult.

    If starter works OK, you can buy an inexpensive test tool that will help you verify that each spark plug is generating spark. I forget what it's called.

    Assuming spark is OK, you need to check fuel pressure while it is trying to start. Go to or borrow a gauge.

    If fuel pressure OK, you have to disconnect fuel line so you can remove injectors. With injectors removed, you can do an electrical test on each injector. Requires a multimeter.

    My 97 jeep, 4L I6, would start, but ran very poor. I started working on it with nothing to lose. I did every test I could find in Haynes manual.

    I found several problems. It did not run OK until I fixed them all. It has 170K miles and injectors were OK. Fuel pump was OK. I Here's what I ended up fixing.

    1) Throttle was very dirty and black; cleaning it required removal
    2) Replaced idle air control valve - if your tachometer is all over the place while your idling, suspect this part.
    3) Replaced control valve for early fuel evaporation. If faulty, it affects your vacuum. It's not suppose to open until the engine has generated significant vacuum. Otherwise it hurts your vacuum.

    It ran much better, but it improved even more after replacing intake gaskets, which again affects vacuum. And yes, the intake will be very dirty. Clean it.

    New plugs and wires helped, but not a determining factor.

    If you can do tests that show a part is faulty and you spend $ to replace it, there's a good chance you will get results. But given overall complexity of today's car, there is no guarantee.

    It takes time. There is always risk you may be wasting time and $. If you take it to a mechanic after you try to work on it, they may not like it.
  • Ray29 I had the same problem 1/2 doz trips to the dealer and they could nor fix it. I started digging into it and found it was the Controls within the dash panel (the three knobs). Bad solder joints on the control panel. (they use a compression type joint) replaced the panel about $110 from dealer. problem solved. A test you can do is put inward pressure on the temp control button when calling for heat and the damper should open (pressure on the knob helps make up the solder joint on that board).
  • I have a 4.7 Litre V8 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Totally out of the blue it threw a connecting rod and the piston went up into the head. We now have to get a new engine. Has this happened to anyone else? Is this common in Jeeps? Do you think it is worth repairing?
  • My 2000 jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 has the same issues,i am in the process of replacing the engine with another low mileage engine.It might be very costly to try to repair.I would search around to see if I could get another engine if I were you.
  • We just recently had one of our 2001 Jeep GC throw a piston through the engine block, and are replacing it with a remanufactured engine. Ours is a 4.0L engine. How many people are having/had this issue?
  • What type of pricing are you seeing for you to replace your guys' engines?
  • You can just pop off the upper dash cover on the 99. I have an 2002 and had the same issue with blown tweeters in my Grand Cherokee also. Easy fix but steer clear of everything but the ones from because the factory ones go bad ALL THE TIME! The other alternative is high pitch tiny tweeters you can buy from walmart on a fancy bracket. There is a guy who sells that junk mini piezo tweeter on Ebay calls it a viper something or another. Stay away! it is about 1/6 the size of the factory one and has ZERO sound quality.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If you pay somebody to rebuild your engine or install a used engine, make sure you get a 90 day warranty on the compression test.

    V8 is cool. But, assuming it can be made compatible, maybe an I6 would be easier to find and cheaper. My 97 2wd JGC has the 4.0 I6. Acceleration was good but I don't tow
  • Sure wish you had received some responses. I have a 2000 JGC Laredo with what may be the exact same problem. I have spent a couple hours searching on the Internet, and cannot find this particular problem addressed anywhere. At least I won't assume it's the speaker, after your outcome.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If it only happens when you are moving, a connector or wire is loose or speaker or radio not secure which stresses wires and connectors. Next, I assume it happens all the time so you can test it in your garage.

    Obtain a portable radio or compact stereo that can driive your speakers. The ohm ratings should match or be as close as possible. The Power output of stereo should meet or exceed speakers.

    1. Disconnect speaker wire at radio and speaker. Connect speaker to stereo on seperate wires. Make sure volume of stereo is 0 when you turn it on.Adjust volume until plays loud. If Ok, go to step 2. If OK, don't replace speaker and go to step 2

    2. Repeat above test using vehicle speaker. Leave as much of the speaker wire in the vehicle as possible.

    If test passes problem is radio or connector that goes to radio. Check for bent or loose pins or sockets. If you have 4 speakers, I would expect all of the wires to be integrated into a single connector that plugs in the radio.

    Nothing happens without risk. You could spend time & $ with no results or damage it while working on it.

    NOTE: disconnect negative battery cable any time you disconnect or reconnect any electrical connections except if replacing a bulb that you know is turned off
  • rwengr: Thank you for your reply. As soon as I get some free time, I will try your suggestions and post my result.
  • I had the blower motor resistor problem on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee where the connector melts. I am replacing the connector and noticed there is always 12 volts going to the connector, even when my Jeep is off. Is this normal?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You will need to trace the electrical diagram to see if it is controlled by the ignition switch. You will need a Haynes manual, Jeep shop manual (the best) or
  • I have a 2005 JGC Limited with the 5.7 hemi with 76K miles. My Jeep will idle, start, and shift fine. But when I drive it say to the store and home, then a few hours later I go to drive it again. It will start fine and shift into gear without any problems, when I drive to the end of the street (about 100 feet) and stop at the end of the street it may sputter a little bit then stall out or it'll just stall with out any sputtering. It will usually start right back up like nothing happened, and one time it took about 2 tries at (about 3 seconds turning over) and fired on the second try. After this happens the transmission may clunk around a bit at speed. Also no check engine light has come on yet and this has been going on for about 3 weeks now.
    Any answers or ideas would be a lot of help as I honestly don't know where to start with this one. Thanks.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I fixed up my 97 jeep (4.0L I6) last summer for my kid. It ran awful. I replaced plugs and wires. It helped a little, but not much. So, I decided to leave no stone unturned.

    1) Measure fuel pressure.
    2) Make sure each plug is getting spark. They make a tool for this
    3) Compression test each cylinder
    4) Measured vacuum and followed Haynes manual
    5) Check for cracks in any portion of vacuum hoses that get exposed to a lot of heat. Use your fingers or a mirror.
    6) Do all emission related checks in Haynes manual.

    Fuel pressure was OK. Spark was OK. I had 1 cylinder that was slightly below spec, but my engine has 170K.

    I serviced everything I thought was suspect.

    1) replaced some hoses
    2) new idle air control valve
    3) new EFE vacuum control solenoid
    4) new intake gasket.
    5) throttle was very dirty. removed it and cleaned everything as much as possible.

    It runs surprisingly well except for a little vibration at idle which I attribute to the cylinder.

    I strongly believe improvement was the aggregate result of the above, but overall, I believe the biggest culprit was vacuum. I'd be surprised if any of your cylinders failed compression.

    You will have to learn how to backprobe devices with a voltmeter.

    See for good prices on gauges.
  • Thanks,
    I did spark plugs today and a friend helped me check the spark. (Hes got the tool)
    I checked the hoses that the dealer recommended I replace. But I plan on going back tomorrow to give it a better look when there is some more light outside.
    There is a harbor freight right up the street from me, never go there but i'll check out the prices next time im out.

    Thanks for the advise.

    Also I had a 97 jeep with the 4.0 and the engine went strong till 240K when a piston rod came lose. (that's just what I think it was never opened it up) Replaced that motor with a 98 Cherokee's 4.0 with about 90k about 2 years ago. Gave it to my younger sister about a year ago and its still running strong. Loved that 4.0 it just never knew when to quit.
  • Ok I posted before on the wrong forum I guess... My Wife and I just bought a 1989 cherokee pioneer and in less than one week we had to add another 50 bucks to the tank..Is there anything I can do to increase the gas mileage in this vehicle? I'm open for suggestions. Such as aftermarket parts in specific, or anything else people have found out that works. Since our Jeep has the Six-banger engine we thought that we were going to have something more economical on gas prices (I also own a 92 Ford f150 dual gas tank dollar killer), especially since we live in Chicago (The Nation's Highest Gas Priced City). Boy were we wrong!
    Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!!!
    The RedRat
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    in less than one week we had to add another 50 bucks to the tank.

    How many miles did you put on in that week and is that typical of your driving?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    you left a lot of info mileage,shape(been beat up? matching tires?maintenence?)
    #1-CLEAN AIR FILTER!.if it can't breathe,mileage suffers..
    tune up-fresh plugs mean it's burning ALL th gas-well,most
    --stop putting the cheapest gas you can take a old car,and feed it crap gas..i've got th 5.2-v8,and average 18mpg..using premium marathon..for the dime's worth of diffrence,it runs better,and don't plug up the converter!..
    --is th converter plugged?..listen,and see if it's TOO quiet..might be worth replacing..

    --as far as dropping 50 bucks per,ya ain't driving a econo-box !..these are a working piece of's gonna cost x mpg to get that weight down th road-be it a 6 or v8 doesn't work as hard as your 6,but is feeding two more cylinders..--the ride/preformance/ameneties kinda make it a safer-more plesant ride than those little soda cans with wheels i've seen get blown into a ditch in a strong wind..

    tune it up,fix what's wrong,fill your tires,buy good gas..treat it like a real car,and it should be a real car for you..but rember,it's a truck,with a suv body on it..that's what makes them safer..when i got mine-my premiums went DOWN,20 bucks,it's all a trade offit'll never get th mileage of a corolla,but in a accident..? :shades:
  • I found a post that disappeared today that help me replace the shifter bulb in the console. The gist is that the plastic shifter cover comes off but be careful as the tabs are reluctant. I found that narrow putty knife works better than a screw driver to find and slightly push in the tabs on the side as you lift it slightly. Easy squeezy and no worries of breaking or marring the cover or the console!
  • My 2003 JGC with 65000 miles suddenly began stalling, it would start run for a few minutes and stall about 3 or 4 times then it would not start. Towed to a mechanic and the next morning it started and had no problems, no codes. Brought it home and it stalled and would not start. Another tow and it started right up. This time a codes for a crank shaft sensor. Replaced sensor and started home, stopped to eat and no start. Towed again. Next day started right up, no codes. Replaced PCM, towed to dealer to set PCM with computer, Drove back to shop. Next day after a few hours of running fine, it stalled, started right up and stalled. Started right up and stalled, then no start, Check codes and it ran a crankshaft senor. A new (not remanufactured) PCM was used. Any ideas before I buy a flatbed to tow the jeep everywhere?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If you have the time and you want to have some fun, investigate the possibility of adding a miles per gallon gauge/indicator. Then, use it to learn how to go easy on the accelerator and for choosing the best highway speed.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    1) Look for any ground wires connected to engine block. Clean and re-tighten if they don't look perfect.
    2)Measure the fuel pressure and make sure it's not bouncing around or too low. My jeep has a schraeder fitting on the fuel rail near the injectors. Very easy to measure. See for a good price on a gauge.
    3) Pull spark plugs. Check for broken or fouled plug and reset the gap. Or put in new ones.
    4) Check your coil or coil pack (see Haynes manual)
    5) Get the Haynes manual and do all of their Emission troubleshooting checks.

    Fix suspected problems 1 at a time and drive it again so you can see what make's a difference. This knowledge may be useful.

    If above has no success or no trouble found, you will need an engine analyzer that can real-time record data from the engine computer. I believe they sell devices that will connect to a laptop PC. Cost is ? . Stop recording when it stalls and look at data. You can do your own research to interpret the results or find a mechanic to interpret it.

    All sensors are fed into engine computer and it controls everything. It must have a clue, although it may be an indirect one.

    I suggest you avoid letting a dealer or repair shop try out solutions at your expense unless they can tell how they did their troubleshooting or explain why a part failed visual inspection.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    this may sound really simplistic,but my -98 grand cherokee laredo HAS a "trip computer" -in the overhead console..i usually leave it on the "instant m.p.g setting,and can switch to average mpg..-with the 5.2-v8,awd,i'm averaging 18..for what it is,that ain't horrid,but-when i got it,i did a major tune up-that it really needed a cap and rotor,plus the plugs wern't as good as th splitfire-type plugs that were on sale when i did really helps when you run the best premium gas(marathon seems to work for me)maybe it's the stp additives they put in at the pump,but-it starts better,and i get better mpg..your results may vary,but-as expensive as gas is these days,the 20 cent per gal seems to be worth it to me,and my truck starts in cold weather ! :shades:
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    coil !when it stalls,check for spark-the old fasioned way..i pull the coil wire off the distributor,and leave it about 1/16" away from the post it's suposed to go to,and get someone to turn the key spark,i'd replace the coil..have seen a ton of g.m.'s that'd do that-even rescued some women from a walmartwith their little s-10-v6..
    -they can be tricky,as when they cool off,they'll work-till they get hot-and quit again..chabging coil's out are a pain if your in a parking lot,as the origional ones are rivited in,and you gotta grind-chop the heads off,just to use the origional braket..but you've gotta do it,or it won't ground properly,so you can't just plug in the new one-lay it on th manifold-and expect it to work,but-it sounds like the coil could be going bad!! good luck ! ;)
  • the fan isnt working i just bought it and dont know how to fix it if anybody has any helpful info please share. it'd be much appreciated
  • lrh2lrh2 Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 98 G Cherokee 4x4. Thing is immaculate. 176k. Every thing works. 4 wheel drive was never used. Just wondering, what should I do initially for preventative maintenance? This is my first Jeep. Normally, I'm a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" guy. But with 176k on the odometer, thought maybe oil/transfer case/etc might need some attention.

    Any thoughts?
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    Do you have any maintenance records for it? I also have a '98 ZJ, and I suggest servicing both differentials + the TC immediately. I would also immediately change the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and the belt if that hasn't been done already. Also completely flush the radiator and transmission. If you take care of this car, you'll be very happy - I've had to shell out some money for maintenance to keep it this way, but mine runs like new and I love it. Good luck!
  • lrh2lrh2 Posts: 2
    It is best to find a jeep dealer to do this or can any local mechanic/shop perform this stuff?

    The only maintenance records I found were a bunch of those little oil change stick ons in the glove box.

    Thanks for your advice.
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    If you have a trusted local mechanic that you use, that's probably OK as long as they use the proper fluids and fill them to the proper level. This is critical, as you will cause premature wear and promote malfunction otherwise.

    This will probably trigger a flood of polar anti-dealer sentiment (which I do not share), but I prefer to get anything beyond basic maintenance done at my dealer. They have all the right parts/fluids on hand, and experienced Jeep mechanics who are more likely to know your vehicle best. But I have a great relationship with my Jeep dealer --- they have always been very fair, it is where I bought the car, and they charge me a very reasonable price for everything, so maybe I'm in the minority. It is a good idea to try a few places and see what the pricing is, because some dealers and private mechanics will rip you off and try to get you to do jobs that aren't necessary. You can get a good sense of what people get done to their Jeeps on this forum, too.

    My recommendations come from what I've done to my Jeep in the last 50K to extend the life of my vehicle and keep it running it top condition. As for your drivetrain, I would continue to keep fluid changed and your differentials serviced every 30K from now on. Sure, you can get by with less, but if you're planning to keep the vehicle, it will save you headache in the long run.
  • I have a inline six-banger in my jeep and I have noticed a interesting phenomenon happening in the dark...sparks!!! It's been happening on the front of the Crankshaft Vibration Damper and I have no idea why it's happening? Could it be the timing is off? or is it something else? It started as just a "" type of noise and speeds up as the engine accelerates. Also i have noticed that starting the engine takes a quite few seconds (about 5-8) before the engine cranks. I don't think it's normal for the engine to be doing this, it's a recently bought jeep from a used lot. But it wasn't doing this until now... help?
  • Well it seems I may have been overreacting a bit after checking out the numbers, I think I'm getting pretty realistic mpg's for driving this Box with Wheels in the Windy City. But I've taking advice from the others and checked the air filter---clean as a whistle, with a lil grime. Next up was a full driving inspection...the guy we bought it from had to take the valve cover off (not told the reason why), and instead of replacing the gasket, his mechanic just used a silicone gasket sealer around it and put it back on, so not only does it leaks oil, it also makes everything smell like burning rubber. And from my new post it raised another question that I discovered while fiddling around outside at night under the hood..... Thanks for the response, I also soon realized that everyone is right about driving this type of truck, be easy on acceleration-coast as much as possible to maintain speed- brake easy and not too hard. Found that the mpg's improved by not much but more than the first week of driving so didn't have to fill up as quickly as before.

    Thanks Everbody here
    The Red Rat
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Thanks for the report and I'm glad it's working out for you! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Thanks Loosenut, Yeah it isn't in bad shape at all!!! air filter---clean, had a tune up with plugs changed and all the rest, I'm thinkin of changing them again to splitfires with the wires to match. Just bought brand new tires three days after I bought the truck and I don't put cheap gas in any of the cars I own, if anything, I'll spend a lil extra to drop in fuel injector cleaner or marvel mystery oil in the tank whenever I can or have the money on me. But you struck a itchy spot I can't reach right now----THE EXHAUST!!! I definately want to do something about it, I noticed a bit of a drip (gas/water) coming out the tailpipe, which is also VERY COVERED inside with soot!!! Thought to myself the thing just ain't breathing right! The converter is not good huh? This thing is starting to show it's neglect from the previous owner, and now we got a snow storm headin our way. I'm more worried if she'll even start tomorrow now.
    Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I think your high energy ignition system has a problem. Its the only think I know that can generate a big enough voltage to create a spark

    Inspect your ignition wires for cracks in the insulation. Make sure plug wire is firmly seated to top of plug. Replace the whole set if you see anything suspicious or you don't know how old they are. Inspect your spark plugs for a broken plug. It won't be obvious, try to wiggle the top of the plug with low-medium force. If it moves any at all, replace it. It should be rock solid. If the whole plug wiggles, then it is not threaded properly.

    If a wire was somehow left resting on a part of the motor, over time the heat will damage the insulation

    If plug is broken or insulation compromised, energy from the iginition could be shorting to the engine instead of reaching the plug. The short may not be where you see the spark. The spark you see is where the energy finally reaches ground. It is suppose to reach ground at the bottom of the spark plug. If somebody incorrectly pulled a spark plug wire they may have damaged it. You can slide it back on; it looks connected; but it is not.

    Another possibility is a broken electrode at the bottom of the plug. If its missing you'll notice it looks funny.

    If your inspections yield no results, there is an inexpensive tool you can buy that connects to the spark plug so you can verify each wire is properly delivering spark to the plug. Make sure battery is fully charged, remove fuel pump circuit breaker, and have someone try to start the engine while you observe results. You test each wire 1 at a time.
  • YES! I have the same problem. I bought mine 2yrs ago. It had 64K on it. Ever since I got it, it surges on smooth, flat roads along with going up hills. It seems to get worse at slower speeds( 30-35mph) while traveling up hills. We have tried a torque converter, tranny, plugs, wires, etc......and it still does it! It drives me crazy! Have you found anything else out since your post?
  • Thanks I'll check it out, also,do you think the splitfire spark plugs and wire set is a good purchase? I wanted to buy it but never thought that they really did any better than regular spark plugs, some people on here swear by them. Might as well go through the whole system and replace any of the other components while I''m at it. Hope my bank doesn't think I have a drug problem taking out so much money every other day.....
  • Does anyone know what the original spark plugs were in the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Mine is the 4.0L engine, but I suspect they are the same for the 4.7L also.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    plug type RC12ECC gap at .035 think they use ac sparkplugs
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    if you'r seeing "lightning" under the hood,your spark plug wires aren't soing their job..replace don't have to but yhe "gold plated-racing"type,but don't get the cheapest either..usually,the 6mm size,like jeep put on it when new,will work fine..
    -split-fire plugs -at 8 bucks per,are pricey. advance had a real cool-split tang-style,where there was a split at the end of th arm,i caught them on sale for 2 bucks per,and they seem to work well
    -i get more improvement from replacing the cap and rotor button..too many times,this gets neglected-cause you can screw up the firing order..
    pit all the old wires in the wire holders..pull the old cap,put on the new one-and button..snap it down..with new wires on new plugs,follow how the old ones-from the wire holders-went..start with the one near a identifiable mark-like a clip-or screw-on th cap..follow them-in sequence-till you run out of old/new wires,the replace coil wire..this way,the short wires are evident,and your not trying to do two things at once..good luck ! ;)
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I forgot to mention you should make sure the engine is cool before doing all this. I usually do this sort of work in the morning after the vehicle has been sitting all night.

    And keep your hands away from any part of the high energy ignition system while vehicle is running or you are trying to start it.
  • I have 165,000 miles. The past 2 months she would stall, backfire, surge. I replaced Cat.& muffler, distributor & rotor cap, plugs & wires, pick-up coil, ignition coil, crankshaft sensor. No check engine light. 3 or 4 days ago after a big back fire check engine light came on. Everything points to water in the gas I put 4 bottles of drier in the last 2 months. She still has same symptoms.
  • pole2pole2 Posts: 17
    I am looking for best audio video system for my Jeep Cherokee Loredo 2007. My did not come with oryginal Navigation/Rear Backup Camera Group – ParkVie, Media Centre 730N CD/DVD/HDD/NAV so I try to put somthing better then this.
    Any opininion ?
    Thank you.
  • Battery drain when ignition is off. I have isolated the problem to the curcuit protected by fuse #7 labeled: Body Amp, Cluster, Body controller. This is a 20 amp fuse and when removed the battery no longer drains down. Need to know the likely circuit that may be at fault. With the fuse removed I have no instrumentation.

  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    on both jeep engines(v8/l6),there is a "idle vacum control valve",or a similarly named thing..-this is probably what makes it surge during idle-even while pulling...replaced one on a ford aerostar-while tracking down a fully plugged catylitic converter..also what's probably what's wrong with some of those engines out there getting bad mileage-clogged exhaust-many converters-especially when they get bad mileage to start with--people drive them TOO EASY-ALL THE TIME !..
    during the winter there isn't mutch you can do-but,when it's warmer,fill it up with the best octane you can get-sunoco has the highest,and DRIVE IT ..for at least a hour!..then,after it's warm(operating temp)find a empty stretch of road,and FLOOR IT!.keeping it wide open untill it shifts!--now this doesn't mean you have to go 150 mph,but,you gotta clear out the pipes..THEN,the rest of the time-drive easy-and you'll get better mileage !..i use the entrance ramp to the knows when to shift!
    --when voltswagen first imported the beloved "bug"-back in the -60's(first was 58),they had a lot of them returned..found out american drivers were used to their v-8's,and were not driving the air cooled 4 cyl hard enough..i had one-drove the snot outta it,and ran like a german watch!..
    --take it easy for better mileage,but clear it out when it's hot out,and your jeep will be a happy camper!
  • iv had a problem for a couple of days my 97 jeep cherokee blows a fuse in the pdc when i try to start it and when it blows it dies any ideas folks
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