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Comments
When turning the blinker lever on in either direction, the green arrow on the panel illuminates but does not blink as it should.
Does this sound like a burned out fuse? I'd hate to have to go back any of the 3 NJ dealerships I've dealt with in the 6 months I have owned this car - I have been treated badly at each one (typical woman buying/repairing a car). Where is it indicated what the fuse amperage is so I don't buy the wrong kind if it is the problem?
Thanks for any advice!
Strange about the Roadside Assistance thingy. When I needed them, they arrived when they said and the driver ASKED me where did I want the car taken!
Remove the headlamp relay from the relay box in the engine compartment.
Check for continuity between terminals on the relay.
FLASHER UNIT
Remove the flasher unit from the relay box.
Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to terminal 2 and the negative (-) lead to terminal 3.
Connect the two turn signal lamps in parallel to terminals 2 and 3. Check that the bulbs turn on and off.
NOTE
The turn signal lamps should flash 60 to 120 times per minute. If one of the front or rear turn signal lamps has an open circuit, the number of flashes will be more than 120 per minute. If operation is not as specified, replace the flasher unit.
I am aware that a very few people have had transmission problems, but hardly enough to make this a safety issue, from what I've read. Owners, as well as some reviewers have mentioned the tendency of the 3.5 liter with 5 speed auto in both the Santa Fe and XG350 to "lurch" when the accelerator is pressed. This is certainly not what I'd consider acceptable behavior, and would expect it will be resolved by Hyundai shortly. In the meantime, since you are aware of this tendency, you have to anticipate and compensate for it in your driving.
The "loss of power" issue, to my knowledge, is more like a brief hitch or hesitation, and has not caused any engine to shut down or caused any accidents like a stall would.
If you are experiencing this problem over several models of the same vehicle, it could be a problem with a particular assembly run. It just seems very atypical for one person to have so many similar issues across different samples.
Good luck in getting satisfaction. At least your dealer seems to be bending over backward, currently, to accomodate you.
Now, the scary part. Afetr driving, stopping at a stop sign then pulling into traffic and wanting to acclerate it is almost guaranteed to not respond to accelerator input for 5-7 seconds while the traffic you are trying to merge with is slamming on brakes to avoid hitting you in the Hyundai.
This is a SAFETY issue and Hyundai needs to respond immediately. My dealer has blown me off 4 times - once with a purported adjustment to the accelerator module or some nonsense which did abosolutely nothing.
One more shot for my dealer then I cry foul.
I have left three messages for Hyundai CS with my incident # and never heard back from them.
I guess profits are now up so CS goes away!
Do not by one of the unsupported vehicles. Mine is unsafe and Hyundai doesn't care. Johnny Cochran, I need you man. Jackie Chiles? Are you there?
Does the Santa Fe have an electronic "drive by wire" throttle (no accelerator cable)?
I gotta say, that if you're experiencing that long a delay, then, YES, you have a serious problem. I'd be jailed before my dealer could blow me off on that kind of problem!
If I were you, I'd take someone with you for a drive, and document this problem using a video camera. Have the person filming ride in the back seat on the passenger side so they can film your actions as well. Have you contacted NHTSA?
Dizzy,
I'm glad to hear you are finding a sympathetic ear at your dealer. Hopefully they can resolve your issues.
SuvShopper4,
To my knowledge, no Hyundai has the drive by wire feature yet.
I called the sales guy and left a message and he called me back this morning. He spoke with the service manager a short while later and I received a call from the SM. I am taking the SF in Monday and i'll get a loaner. I think the SM was (and is) sincere but then I am pretty gullible most of the time.
There is now a new "feature" being exhibited by my Santy. I live in the Tampa Bay area so I doubt this could be a cold related thing - so here goes.
Every morning for about two weeks, when I back out
of the driveway into the street then stop, move the gear selector from "R" to "D", I get a noticable couple thunks and slight jerk as it finds drive.
I am not touching the accelerator when this occurs and idle speed is not audibly high. It only happens the one time every morning.
Can anyone relate to this?
thanks,
Rooster
Are you waiting for the RPMs to drop before engaging Drive? It sounds like the idle revs are a bit high when you shift to drive, hence the thunking only in the morning. Wait until the RPMs begin to drop below 1000 rpm before moving, is what I suggest. It only requires 20-30 seconds to wait for this.
The service manager vagely remembered talking to me Friday but eventually things seemed just fine.
He had a mechanic/technician ride with me. Not all my concerns were duplicated but the tech seemed to have a real grasp on the nuances of the 3.5l SF. He told me how there is more electronics involved in the throllt mechanism than in the 2.7. He did acknoledge the concerns I have and conveyed them to tth eservice manager. The thunk (R->D) did not occur this morning. I will ensure the rpm has stabilized below 1000 before moving the vehicle and see how that goes.
If the Santa Fe would drive/shift as smooth as the xg-350 loaner, I'd be a really happy camper!!!
Rooster
It is a lot, LOT better. I have not re-encountered any of the major shift/hesitation situations that were killing me!
There is a slight hesitation when speeding up just a little, but the xg-350 loaner experienced a similar hesitation. I think they should get that ironed out with a WebTech bulletin of some category. That xg-350 was nice. The xg-350 nor the SF are as smooth riding (or quiet) over bumbs/irregular road surface as an American cruiser, but both are truly fine on a smooth roadway.
If anything changes, I will post it here. I will get the name of the sensors/modules that were adjusted if anyone needs this info.
Rooster
Caused by SCAN - P0123 - P1192 - P1171 MFI Control System Adjustment
Work performed by xxxxxxx
Adjust TPS Sensor - ACDCEL Position Sensor
Rooster
Glad to see you got that problem handled! From your invoice, it appears that the Throttle Position Sensor and the Acceleration/Deceleration sensors are what they adjusted. I was aware we had the former, but was unaware of the A/D sensor.
Thanks for the update!
this year..The gas milage is terrible..I get about 11.5 mpg..Everything else about the car is
beautiful, but I never expected such a low gas
milage, and I have about 500 miles on it..Is this
normal for a "break-in" period. Has anybody else
have this problem. I know with AWD you have a
little less milage but should it be this low
I get 18mpg city/suburbs in the Tampa area with my 2003 3.5l SF 2wd. It's certainly not highway driving but not dense, metro traffic.
I have A/C on almost all the time - even in the balmy winters we have here!
You don't say if yours is 4WD but there is a new TSB listed for the 3.5L Tranny Bump issue on the 3.5L 4WD. The TSB# is 04-40-003 in case you want your service department to look it up.
The TSB is for some Santa Fe 3.5L 4WD Vehicles produced through December 15, 2003. However, other owners with SFs produced outside the date, have reported a similar problem!
Please feel free to check back in here frequently - an invitation to reply by email discourages people from sharing information and defeats the purpose of a message board.
tidester, host
Basically, any turn or bump I make, it makes a squeaking noise. It is annoying.
Anyone else have this problem and if so, were you able to fix it??
Thanks
Amber
One problem I have as far as cargo is that my back seats had never been put down so trying to do so is a tremendous task. I was only able to get one down.
Thanks!
Amber
By "passive", I assume you're talking about the 2.7 setup. This is a viscuous type of mechanical AWD that has been around for quite a while and is proven technology. Simple, but very effective and reliable. The power split is always 60% front wheels and 40% rear wheels.
On the 3.5, Hyundai went with an electronically controlled system that can distribute the power directly to the wheels that have the most grip. It's a bit more complicated and that implies less reliable, but I haven't heard of any real issues.
In any case, where your salesman is in error concerns his statement about "give" in the turns with the purely mechanical setup in the 2.7 drivetrain. That's what the limited slip differential and viscuous coupling are for, to handle the varying forces on paved road travel.
Personally, I'm quite happy with the performance of the older style AWD, but I believe the 3.5 needed a change in order to keep the gas mileage reasonable. Normally, the only wheels being driven are the front ones. It's more of an engine/transmission choice for you, I think.