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Comments
For the rough ride, double-check the tire pressure to rule that out.
How did you wind up with a three day return period anyway?
Got them to add remote start and a six oil change/tire rotation package with the sale.
also got a really awesome price on my trade in- 2008 Infiniti ex35 with just under 41K on it. Got $17.5 which I felt was pretty generous.
i don't think I got that great of a discount on the sale price but I think getting them to all the freebies I wanted and the good deal on my trade-in made it overall a good deal. Went to the other deal in the area who couldnt do any better.
Alot of us folks are on the fence about buying a RDX. I want one, but the VCM aspect scares me. Please report back after you put some miles on it and let us know if the VCM works.
So you passed on the CR-V? Or did you double-dip and buy two cars recently?
I passed on the CRV due to vibration issues. I was not planing on buying RDX but the offer was so good. I could not refuse.
I was holding strong, at 33,500 in MN, before taxs, plates, and thought if they included the above accessories deal would be done. Apparently there is dealer cash of 750.00 right now, and of course the holdback of 2%, so when you take out the accessories on what I would be able to pay for online, the total price would have been 33,686.20. At this price, I don't think there would have been much room to negotiate further, so I took the deal above.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
Sale price - 34500 + tax +doc + to nearly 37000$.
Could you please let me know if that's a good deal??
Does 34.5k includes any dealer add-ons? I am barely getting the dealers to budge below $35K in Western Washington and they all include ridiculous add-ons.
Thank you for the inputs.
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I bought a 2015 AWD RDX (without the Tech package) on Dec 31st, 2014 for $33,200(ARW-RDX)+$350( doc fee)+$105(transfer plate and title)-$3250(MDX trade in)+7%tax. I bought the car in a rush. The total time I spent was less than one full day which included pricing research.
I had a 2003 MDX with 109K miles and a dented side door hit by a deer(would cost more than $1K to fix). the torque converter and a bunch of other items also needed repair which would cost several thousand dollars. I had the car serviced on the evening of Dec 30th, 2014 and was told need new compliance bushings and new engine mounts. Faced with several thousand dollars of repairs so decided to talk to a sale person to ask for a quote on a 2015 AWD RDX. Right from the beginning, things looked promising. I was quoted $34,420 and trade in for $3250(one month before, it was $3750), about $390 doc fee. I quickly checked invoice price on ipad and knew that the quote was close to the invoice price. Hm, interesting! The question I then had was how much did the trade-in actually worth? While I was hesitating, the manager came to the booth and said that if I applied for a loan instead of paying cash, there was a $500 incentive! I knew immediately this was a good deal. The manager asked what he could do to close the deal. The sale person applied pressure by saying that he won't be in the next day and the car had to be bought that night (both turned out not true). I resisted because I had not done any research at all. So I said I came in for service not prepared to buy a car right on the spot and would need a few hours to think the offer over. At home, I checked used MDX price on Craigslist and knew how much my MDX trade in would worth in Craigslist.
Next morning, I went to another dealer and got a quote for $35,200 and $2000 for trade in. When I walked out , the sale person lower the car price to $34,420. This was a bad offer. Apparently, $34,420 was what most dealers were willing to sell the car for.
I called another dealer, surprisingly the sale person was willing to quote over the phone for $35,200, which apparently was the average price dealers wanted to sell for. I told her from the offer I already had, the gap was so large that there was no point for me to go to the showroom. Then the internet sale manager came on the line. I explained the offer I got and said that I was given $500 loan incentive. Surprisingly, he went to the general manager and lower the RDX to 34,200 and also matched the $500 incentive, but the deal had to be closed today. This was truly a good deal. But the problem was my wife was already in the first dealership because it opened only half a day and the deal had to be closed today.
I told my wife that the trade in seemed a bit low. If she could get the manager to increase the trade in for $1000, then go for it. The manager was willing to go up $700 instead of $1000. Our final price was given above. The true cost for the RDX was hard to determine because of the trade-in. This may be a special deal occurred only on dec 31st, the last day of the year and there could be a need to enter the sale in the book before Jan 1st, 2015.
Overall, buying this car was a very pleasant experience as it involved Minimum time and no hard bargaining. From my experience, the hardest thing was to find a dealer willing to offer a good price which forms the basis to negotiate with other dealers. I felt that the sale person was not high class but the manager was. The former applied high pressure tactic unnecessary, however, the latter was polite and quite gracious. Based on the experience gained in buying this RDX, I would like to suggest to the car buyers to do the following preparations:
1) know the invoice price and the average price the car is selling for in your area.
2) before seeing any dealer, do your research and decide what take-home price you really want to pay for the car and be ready to buy it on the spot as most dealers won't negotiate if you don't show intention to buy it on the spot. The fact that I said I wanted to buy the car right now was the main reason I got a good price and minimum bargaining. Remember that doc fee is pure profit and not the same for different dealers so it is best to use the take-home price to compare offers from different dealers.
3) if you have a trade-in, separate it from buying the car i.e. first get a quote on the car without the trade-in then get a quote for the trade-in separately. In order to get a good price on the car, be ready to sell your trade in on Craigslist.
4) have an answer to the question, "what do we need to do to close the deal right now?". Don't make impulsive decision. At the minimum, say, "let me have a cup of coffee to think about your offer."
5) don't waste your time in getting quotes from the Internet. All the quotes I got were high.
Would not have mind driving to MD.
If the manufacturer requires that the incentive be shown as a downpayment by the customer, then it's usually taxable (in most states).
Dealers do and say a lot of things that are suspect, but they usually don't mess around with sales tax.
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How did I do?