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Didn't even know there was such a thing.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am thinking to replace Mobile TriSyn 5W-20 in next few month. My engine also sounded strained in high rpm, see if it would make differeces after put in Synthentic oil.
gee: ah, yes, of course, forgot you were talking synthetic.
DOES anyone here do their own oil changes?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Plus, how are you going to dispose of the oil yourself? You can't just dump that stuff down the storm drain.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am planning on switching to Mobil 1 and Honda filter combo once, i am sure there is no more burning.
Changing oil on the Si is easy. Start the car and drive for a few miles untill the car is fully warmed up. Let her stand for 10 minutes. Put on your latex surgical gloves or cheapo mechanics gloves. Jack up the passenger side. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap. Remove the passenger side front wheel and reach in with the 17 mm socket or closed wrench, pull in the drain pan, drain the oil. Reach in and loosen the filter, if this is your cars first oil change ever, the filter will be tight and you may need a wrench or drive a screwdriver through plastic body. Usually the filter is on hand tight. Put the Drain plug bolt and THE NEW CRUSH WASHER. Move the rain pan under the filter and remove it, some oil will spill onto the railings and the drive shaft. Make sure the filter gasket came off the car and is not stuck to the engine block.
Grease the new oil filter gasket, by dipping your gloved finger in the new oil and spreading it over the gasket. Pour some oil into the filter and let it soak in, put the filter on the car and tighten by hand until it is tight. Fill almost 5 quarts of oil. Replace the oil cap, start the car let her run for a couple of minutes, shut it off. get under the car to see if there are any leaks. Let the car sit there for a few minutes and check the oil level. Take used oil out of the rain pan and piur it back into the empty oil containers and take to your local AutoZone, pepboys, or any service station that does oil changes, they all accept used oil.
Takes literally 15 minutes and costs $7. Mobil 1 DIY oil change will cost about $30.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
remove a wheel to change this car's oil? For me, that would be a first in 20 years of car ownership, so not what I would call "easy".
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#2572 of 2572 Thanks Dudka by finite Jan 13, 2004 (1:20 am)
Thanks for the info. My manual recommended that the oil filter be removed while the car is on a lift, which sounded like it wouldn't be easy to reach otherwise. I agree with nipponly that removing a wheel isn't consistent with "easy". I will continue to have the dealer handle oil changes.
You could turn the wheels to the left and try to get the filter from the side, but I am a larger guy and it would be difficult for me to reach in. It is also possible to reach from the top and undo the filter, you just have to get the filtre wrench that mounts to the top of the filter. You still need to get to the raind plug, and the car being low, i can't see how anyone would get to it without removing the wheel.
I don't know about you, but I don't own a lift. So, even though manual says to use a lift, removing the wheel is the next best thing.
I haven't heard much about theft of the 02+ Si. Apparently it's pretty hard to steal. (of course it could be stolen, but I don't think most thieves are bothering right now)
Winter driving is fine. If you live in the snow belt, the stock tires are good for snow, and of course no tire is good for ice. Some would say that the stock tires are not up to par for summer handling. They are the best compromize in all season tire. If you have a desire to have two sets of tires, then a set of summer tires on 16 or 17 inch rims can be ordered from tirerack or what not.
I don't think the Si is as hot as it was before. So, the theft is not an issue. With the chip in the key and immobilizer standard, I image it is pretty difficult to steal it. And then, why would anyone want to steal it when it is basically given for free at the dealership. This Si is the [non-permissible content removed] child of Honda, people don't seem to appreciate its versatility, and it is not the most potent pocket rocket anymore.
I now have 31,500 km with only minor topping up between changes. Only one drawback so far. It's hard to check the oil level. It's so clean it doesn't show very well on the dipstick. Extra cost is minor, about $12.00 extra over dino oil. Change my own oil? I'd rather be out driving.
Went with Michelin snows this winter. First time in 15 years. Good pay off this year as there has been lots of snow in Ontario. Traction is great, no guessing as with the MXV4 "maybe" tires.
Waiting for spring...........
The cost: Dealer charges $25 for oil change with dyno oil. I bought a 6 pack of Mobil 1 at Costco for $20, and filter and crush washer from Honda for $3. Took me a total of 15-20 minutes to change.
The dyno oil was blue/black when I drained it, that is at 3500 miles since the last change. I remember from previous cars that Mobil 1 was clear at 5000 mile oil change. I will try 0W-20 next time.
As a Honda owner, I have placed many orders with H&A and have found their prices and service to be excellent.
Purchased my '02 Si in Dec. 03-good rebates/financing.
20,000 miles on car-only issue was the windshield developed a crack in the upper middle (mirror area)-showed the dealer-no stone marks-under warranty.
Suspension could be a little firmer & I would like 16" rims, but can't have everything.
For the money, it is a good "compromise" vehicle-good performance/value/fun to drive & suitable for family travel.
Windshield cracked @ 17K
Running Mobil 1-5w30 for 10k-20k, just went with 0w-20 for the 20k change.
Has anyone noticed a slight "hesitation" when cruising at a steady speed and letting off the accelator-like the engine stalls but no lights come on?
Had an '89 CRX Si with 172k on it-would still have it if it had had a back seat....looking forward to the same on the Civic Si....
The two cars are very similar in many respects, dynamically speaking. The RSX feels a little more hunkered down and flatter when cornering, but the price you pay is the back seat, which is almost useless in the RSX because of severely limited headroom.
Plus, the RSX is a little less "boy racer" looking (no decals or clear taillights), which is just as well at my age! :-)
Since there is so little difference between the two cars, the SI is definitely the better value of the two. But I do appreciate the longer warranty of the Acura.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Also, I've had problems with vandals on my Si. Apparently the kids are jealous of it, because I've had to deal with little dents, a broken passenger window, and a stolen Si badge from the grille. Boy, do I love Jersey.
You probably wouldn't have to about as much with the RSX.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
BTW, my Si is a white 2002, so thankfully it's not so extroverted. Do wish I had the 16-inchers, though.
Just got my '04 Civic Si a few weeks ago and like it so far. I just wanted to ask one question to fellow owners of the Si. When it's dark and the lights are on, the instrument panel lights up the warning lights to the left of the temp gauge in a white light similar to how the Km markers are lit (US car). So at night the SRS and some other warning light are lit in a dull white light rather than their yellow or red light that is displayed when the car starts or there is a problem. I was wondering of others have the same thing in their cars or did something come loose because it's something I didn't notice a few weeks ago when I first purchased it. Thanks in advance. I hope I explained this so someone understands what I'm saying
Mazda 3 - Probably the best overall performer and best interior, and while I haven't priced one, I bet they are going for a lot more than the Si
Civic Si - good performance, fun to drive, very nice all around car. You can get an awesome deal on 03s.
Here's something that I love about my Si:
The placement of the shifter, the fantastic seats, the engine (it's not the fastest car in the world, but it's more than fast enough for Los Angeles streets, the cargo space, the A/C - did I mention those seats?
I have not driven a 3, so you have to go look at it to get a good comparison.
With ContiExtreme contact tires. I like it so far.
The Progress Bar hits my muffler so I'm buying this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- gory=33636&item=2464265248
I'm wondering if that muffler is going to look as chromed once its on your car.