Honda Civic Si / SiR 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • regataregata Member Posts: 8
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    If you like the vehicle, and it is in good machanical shape, get it repaired properly. Make yourself happy. Life is TOO short to own a damaged car!
  • tprincipiotprincipio Member Posts: 2
    I just came from a dealer in Manchester NH who claimed that 2004 is the last model year for the Civic Si. Can anyone confirm this?
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    They are changing it next year.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    the whole Civic line gets updated next year. Will there still be an SI hatch after the update? Have they said anything yet? Honda is notoriously tight-lipped about upcoming model info.

    And btw, 2004 isn't the last year - there will be a 2005 I assume, which is little changed (if at all) from the current model.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    From what I understand, the next Si will unfortunately be a coupe.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    That's what I've heard in my SI forum.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    cancel the SI altogether for a year? Geez, this has to be the most unpopular car ever marketed by Honda. There is certainly no good reason why.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • aaronpanaaronpan Member Posts: 26
    My '02 Si currently has 8000mile and over. I noticed that the rpm reached 4000 at 80mile. I just thought it's too high and wondering if any other Si owner have the same rpm speed at 80mile?? or it's just me!?
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    But the good part is that if you didn't look at the tach you'd never know it. The engine seems to be smoother the higher it revs.

    The car is not THAT unpopular. They just overestimated its market. Look at it like this. Ford sold 5000 Focus SV-T's and Mazda sold about the same Mazdaspeeds. There is no way Honda was gonna sell 15,000 Hatchback 5 speed only SI's. For $19,000 no less. I just read a review of the new Ferrari Scaglietti(or whatever) and it said 90% of orders are for the automatic. What a shame.
    Needless to say we've bought 3 for $16,500 or less.
  • taykinitezytaykinitezy Member Posts: 56
    just curious....what years are your si's. I was quoted $100 under invoice on a 2004....at $17800..sounds like I can do way better maybe...thanks.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    back in July and August 02. The first one was totalled at 1500 miles. And the second one was traded for a 95 GS 300 becuase the handbrake seriously sucked.

    I bought my 03 Blue one in October 03. Got in on the last day of the 1.9% too.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    5000/year wasn't enough for Ford, and it is getting out of the SVT Focus game...

    How many SIs sold in 2003? I get the impression it was even less than that.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Is the handbrake on the 03 any better? After a few rolling incidents, I started always leaving the car in gear.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    It's still pretty weak. But I live in a new house now with a flat driveway. LOL I always have the two rolling incidents in my mind whenever I park on an incline. I make sure it's in gear now.
  • jmiller417jmiller417 Member Posts: 20
    I've been quoted $359 for the 30k service (normal schedule). Is that reasonable? Seems high, but I'm curious what others are paying.

    I'm in NJ, so I'm wondering if I'd be better off waiting until I'm down South to get the work done.
  • jmiller417jmiller417 Member Posts: 20
    I checked with another Jersey dealer, and it's $100 more there.
  • bobbsibobbsi Member Posts: 19
    you should review your owners manual and/or the Honda Owners web site-30k service is an oil change, air filter (depends on conditions), tire rotation, belt inspection & dust filter replacement. $300+ seems a bit steep for that service-is the dealer going "above & beyond" the recommended service?
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    Hello,

    I purchased a 2003 Civic SI back in October, 2003 for about $16,500. I would appreciate some input on some of the statements below.

    1. With regard to the rpms, I've also noticed that my rpm is 4200 (similar to aaronpan) at 80 mph. How much would a sixth gear improve highway gas mileage (into the 35 mpg range)?

    2. There seems to be a lot of interest in the Si-R. I think a weight reduction of the current car would be a better solution. The 91 Civic SI's ran fairly well with 106 hp at 2200 lbs. How about reducting the weight of the current car from 2750 lbs to about 2400 lbs. The performance would then improve at 160 hp while keeping decent gas mileage.

    3. I've noticed that many states now check the computer of the car at inspection. Is this strictly to crack down on modifications (i.e. cold air intakes generally cause a check engine light to come on when changed)? Can modifications still be done to the car if you do not know someone at the deparment of motor vehicles?

    4. I also have some concerns about the oil-consumption problems that others have commented upon. There seems to be very slight oil consumption (about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon every 3500 miles, currently at 6200 miles and looking for a change at 7000-7500 miles). Were the radical oil consumption problems mentioned shortly after introduction of the 02 from high rev driving before the break-in or was/is there a legitamite problem?

    Other than the concerns above, I am content with the Civic SI. I think the SI fills a niche between a true sports car and a economy-minded sedan.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    you go through 2 quarts of oil every 3500 miles (one quart every 1750)? If so, and it were my car, I would feel that was a little high for such a new car.

    At 250K+ miles, that is how much my integra uses...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    1.A taller 6th would help a lot. But would also increase the cost of the car and would make top gear responsiveness require a downshift.

    2.The weight comes with the safety of the car. I owned a 91 Integra built on that platform and it didn't fell anywhere near as tight as this car. 5 star crash rating too.

    3.Cai does not necessarily trigger CEL. They don't check the computer in GA though. Although you can't have a lit CEL.

    4.I went through two quarts in my first 10,000 miles. I'm only at 12,000 right now. Looks like it's better now but I still check it.
  • taykinitezytaykinitezy Member Posts: 56
    After a good amount of study and multiple test drives (Si vs Matrix vs Mazda 3)and advice from this forum I went with the 2004 Si. I'm sure they all have their pros and cons. I really wanted a small HB with 2 doors. What probably impressed me the most was the fact that I could hardly tell the car was even running when sitting at idle. Now that I am an Si owner I am curious if anyone has any advice or good word on the ownership aspect of the Si......thanks.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Watch your oil carefully for the first ten thousand miles or so. Some people have a little bit of oil consumption (I didn't).

    What did you pay for the car?

    I think you are going to be very happy with your car. I've had my car for 19 months now, and I still enjoy driving it every time I get behind the wheel.
  • taykinitezytaykinitezy Member Posts: 56
    I paid $100 under published invoice price, (plus tax & ttl). I didn't haggle with the sales floor, I got an Internet quote. From what I've read I maybe could have done better I don't know, then again the Edmunds figure for what people are paying in my Zip code is about $800 higher...makes you wonder what is really accurate. Almost forgot, there was also $100 document fee. Funny thing is 12 years ago I argued with the salesman and refused to pay the document fee, now it isn't worth the trouble. Haven't had a "stick" in four years, after getting the Si I realized you can get in a driving "rut" with the typical family car without realizing it. I did not buy the Si because I'm a Gen Y'er to be cool, I'm in my mid 40's ....it just seemed to me to be a good solid package with some fun factor thrown in..and utility also.....thanks for your reply.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Sounds like you did pretty good on the car. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

    Keep us posted!
  • aaronpanaaronpan Member Posts: 26
    I just had my '02 Si oil changed last month from local honda dealer (8000+mile). After putting 1500miles from a long trip, I felt the engine need another oil change again. As far as I know, the dealer uses Castrol GTX 5-20. And I am thinking to go for Mobil1 Synthetic, but didn't see any 5-20 synthetic oil from mobil. I don't know if I should go for Castrol 5-20 Syntec. Any advise? Or should I just use Mobil Syn 5-30 instead? Any advises will be greatly appreciated!
  • bobbsibobbsi Member Posts: 19
    I ran Mobil 1 5w-30 between 10k-20k miles. Put 0w-20 in at 20k-added one qt. at 23K (after a one day 500 mile trip). Useage seems to be no worse than the 5w-30.
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    1500 miles on a long trip is actually much easier on oil than driving short distances and turn of-on. As far as Mobil 1 they have 0W20 which is used for service in cases were 5w20 is called. Its actually better in the winter since oil is thinner at start up time. Castrol oil is very good and if you have regular oil changes (which its sounds so) your car will last fine without the expense of synthetic.
  • aaronpanaaronpan Member Posts: 26
    I guess having a regular oil changes is the best way for it. But without synthetic, is it still good for me to shift the gear into high rpm? For example, 5000 or 6000? I tried not to shift too high, because the engine sounded hesitated. That's why I thought synthetic would improve that!?
    Any ideas?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Like SNARKs said before you can use Mobil 1 0W-20 instead of 5W-20, or 5W-30. 0W-20 is very thin and similar to 5W-20 from Honda, which I think is Exxon Superflo anyway. I would stay away from Castrol Syntec. Castrol is not really syntetic oil, but rather highly purified dino oil. Some have said that if you get your hands on "Made in Germany" Castrol Syntec that it is sythetic. But for the same price, you are guaranteed synthetic Mobil 1 every time you buy it. It sells for $23/6 pack at Costco, $30/6 pack at wall mart, Strauss auto had it for $4.29/quart on sale a couple of months ago. I feel more comfortable doing 5000 mile recomended intervals with Mobil 1 than with dino oil, either Honda, Exxon, or Motorcraft.

    As for shifting, the VTC (the i in iVTEC) takes the input from the throttle position, engine RPM, and vehicle speed to adjust the timing. So by simply waiting for the RPMs to climb to 5000 to shift will not give you any advantage, but if you floor it, wait until 6800 (red line, fuel cut off), then shift, you should not get any hesitation.
  • bobbsibobbsi Member Posts: 19
    ...and one should touch the redline at least once a day for peace of mind, if nothing else......
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Oil will make no difference in hestitation (unless a complete lack thereof), and no product will. It could very well be normal.

    Don't spend the extra money on synthetic (Honda's don't require it) unless you plan on keeping the car for the long long haul (ie>150k miles) or just in the winter for extreme cold temps (ie <-10F at startups). Regular oil is just fine, I have used synthetic occasionally and notice no difference in mileage or performance. The only major difference is that engine cranks a bit better at -10F but regular oil works fine (I have 210k on my odometer currently, nearly all on regular oil).
  • aaronpanaaronpan Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for giving all the advises.
    Today I checked the oil stick for the engine oil level, and found out there were 1/4 oil low. I guess my engine is burning oil as some of Si owner experienced. Should I go ahead add some more to it? Or just wait til next oil change? Sorry for continuously asking stupid questions to you all.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    As long as it is between the two dots you are fine. Oil does not have to be to the top mark all the time. When you check oil, make sure the car is off (and has been off for at least 10 minutes), and level.
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    Just top the oil off and worry no further. Oil consumption is normal in cars. 1/4 quart is not substantial, I typically however wait till about a half quart low since the sump on a Civic is tiny.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    General FYI: Si, unlike the plebian Civic's, has a 4.7 quart capacity, it is also mentioned in the manual.
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    So on an SI you are 20% low if your a quart low vs a regular Civic of 25% low..
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Keep the oil to the proper level in the crankcase, and "KEEP IT CLEAN"! ---- "Preventive Maintenance" can save you a lot of money "down the road".------- If you want the engine to run "NEW" longer, change the oil and filter very often, (every 3,000 miles). Use HIGH QULAITY products!--- Extended oil and filter changes are just a "marketing tool" for the vehicle manufacturer to show a "low maintenance cost" over the life of the vehicle. This practice has no place in the "real world of vehicle maintenance & usage"! When the vehicle is "out of warranty", the owner pays for the problems.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I guess the math is right, but being 20% or 25% low is still not good. I have found out first hand that Si has a prevention mechanism for low oil situations. When oil level is really low, it will not rev past 4000 rpm.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    You shouldn't be leaving your engine oil in the crankcase for 10,000 miles. Don't believe the propaganda of those who "tout" the benefits of extended oil and filter changes. Everything looks GREAT on paper, but in the "real world" of "stop and go driving", extended oil and filter changes just don't provide the necessary protection for the engine! My dealer suggests 3,750 mile intervals for this service. I change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. If the interior of the engine is kept clean, oil will circulate properly. Lubricating oil also helps to keep the engine cool! Oil is cheap! Engines are expensive!
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    I have no stop-and-go driving on my commute. I don't have extended idling. And I don't tow. I've been 7500 mile interval for nearly all 20 of my driving years. Never an oil related problem. I have no problem taking Honda advice and going up to 10,000 miles between changes. There is no blanket statement for oil changes. But Honda says unless you REGULARLY drive in the conditions listed, change you oil every 10,000 miles. It's a recommendation. Like tire rotation, the redline on the tach, or the speed limit.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    but I don't THINK the speed limit is supposed to be a recommendation...

    :-P

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Driving in Atlanta. Come on down and do the limit and you may get shot.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Well, despite what Honda recommends, I didn't actually mean not to change your oil for 10,000 miles, just check carefully during that time.

    I usually go about every 4000 miles.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    I don't want to go past 10,000. But I use Mobile1 oil though. Used to use Syntec but got converted when they divulged they were just glorified dyno juice.
  • sf24sf24 Member Posts: 18
    Hi folks,

    I'm looking to buy a car within a few weeks, and Si is being considered. A while back while reading this board i heard many stories about ppl buying their Si's for 13,14K or so , because apparently these cars aren't selling. but checking the Edmunds TMV i don't see anything nearly close to that. and i was at a honda dealership a year ago and asked how much for the Si, i don't remember the figure but it wasn't THAT low. so realistically what should i expect to pay for the Si? i'd jump on it at 13-14K, but for 18-19K i'll go for rsx instead.

    Thanks~
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Looks like the "cheap days" are over.
  • taykinitezytaykinitezy Member Posts: 56
    I assume it may depend on what part of the country you are in. I just bought an '04 Si at $17800 including dest.(not including tax -Northern Ohio) I had been shopping around for a couple months looking at the Matrix, RX3 and the RSX. I figured the RSX would be a good choice but I really preferred having a hatchback and silly as it may sound I couldn't get past the looks of the "big [non-permissible content removed]" wiper on the rear window of the RSX. There is a dealer close by that still had 3 2003 Si's on the lot and gave me an Internet quote in the $15000+ range. I test drove one and it started vibrating on me at freeway speed so I thought it may be best to stay away from something that had been sitting around for several months with who knows what taking them out for test drives at 8000 RPM's. Plus I liked the look of the 2004 better anyway. When I bought my 2004 it was by Internet quote. I sent out 5-6 requests and got 3-4 responses at or just below invoice price. I did not haggle on the showroom floor. The Edmunds TMV pricing for my area is about $800 higher so who knows what is accurate or not. I do know one thing, the 2.0 liter engine (which I believe is the same in the RSX) has got to be the quietest and smoothest 4 cyl. I've ever driven....hope my story may help..good luck.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    The $13-14k Si was pretty rare. But I'm pretty sure you can still find an Si for $17.5k, a good savings over an RSX. (personally, I like the feel of the Si better than the base RSX anyway)
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    The stock Michelins on the SI do not like sitting. We have had 3 SI's of this bodystyle and the tires smooth out after a few miles are on the car.

    The 2.0L is the same as what's in the base RSX but the SI engine includes balance shafts. Although it does run at 4000 RPM @ 80 you would never know unless you look at the tach.
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