Honda Civic Si / SiR 2005 and earlier

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  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    2002 Si - 26,000 mile update:
    1. Creaky Clutch - need to go in for the fix, common problem
    2. Needs replacement driver side door panel - having problems with the window as a result.
    3. Noisy front left shock - needs replacement, result of aftermarket springs. My solution? Aftermarket shocks. Tokico is releasing some gas shocks, and they are about half the price of Honda, so I'm going for it.
    4. Stupid DC Header likes to bang into the frame of the car, and it scares passengers.
    5. Time for new tires - not sure what to get, considering Falekn Azenis, but I want to research their wet performance a little more first.
    6. Gas mileage dipped to an all time low of 22mpg on my last tank.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    I too have the squeaky clutch.

    I don't measure my gas mileage. But the cars runs MUCH better on mid-grade than regular.

    Let me know when those Tokicos come out. I want a new set. Mine are fine, I just want a tighter ride. The ride just isn't quite rough enough with the 45 series 17's on the car right now. :)

    Other than those issues, my SI is a gem.
  • taykinitezytaykinitezy Member Posts: 56
    Just an amusing note....have had two people ask me this week " is that one of them there electric cars".....
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Before that 22mpg taken, I never got less than 25mpg, so hopefully it's not a new trend. Maybe I need to change my CAI air filter.

    My ride is extremely harsh right now. Besides the front left shock, which is getting worse every day, I "accidentally" let 4 in the back, for a 6 person ride for a ways, and my camber is way off in the back now. I can't wait to get new shocks. I don't mind a rough ride, but right now it just feels crappy. I thought the stock shocks would last longer with just a 1.5" drop (on Tein S-Techs), but they apparently haven't.

    I will post when I get the Tokicos on, I am excited. Thinking about putting on a progress rear sway (and definitely new tires) at the same time.

    My left window has progressed from a little screwed up, to really screwed up in the last few days. Doesn't seal anymore, need to get to the dealership.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    It's a gem. I went with the Eibachs. The mild ones(I forgot the which) for just enough drop to look a little more agressive.

    My car is pretty much a commuter. Only thing in my back seat is my back-pack that I keep all my crap in. Maybe when Gee Jr. gets older it may hold his child seat but for now my SI rarely has more than one person in it.
  • redsirredsir Member Posts: 34
    My goodness. I had no idea the squeeky clutch was a common thing.

    Mine squeeks at the top only. New pedal assembly and new master cylinder under warranty. No affect yet. Back to the dealer in two days. Free loaner car supplied.

    If it was my money I would be less passive about this.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    It's a non-issue.
  • jmiller417jmiller417 Member Posts: 20
    Since we're on the subject of problems, I recently had a bevy of them myself.

    Not long after I got my 30k service (I went with the dealer I mentioned in an earlier post) in May, I was driving down the beautiful NJ Turnpike to DC, when my car start running really rough with a loss of power. Soon I figured out that I had lost a cylinder, so I got off at the next exit and parked.

    I was afraid to drive it in that condition, so I had to get it towed to my dealer (which cost $100 on top of the $100 that Hondacare covered). They kept my car nearly a week to figure out that an injector had gone bad, which in turn somehow killed the main computer. So they replaced both parts and I got my car back.

    Disturbing (especially for a Honda), but the story doesn't end there. Driving home, I noticed there strong fumes coming out of the air vents. I was a little concerned, but I figured maybe some leakage from when the dealer was working on the car was burning off. But the following Monday, the smell was still there, so I took it back to the dealer. After keeping the car another five hours, they discovered they had forgotten to put a screw in somewhere.

    I thought that would be that, but when I got home, I noticed the plastic panel had fallen off from underneath the glove box. Needless to say, I was exasperated at this point, but I did manage to get the panel back on without yet another trip to the dealer.

    So I think everything is back to normal, but for some reason, the car seems to run tighter than before and with less power on the top end. All the tach readings are the same, so maybe that's my imagination. But the car definitely hesitates now under acceleration sometimes.

    I still love driving my car, but those troubles make it hard for me to trust the car or the service department at my dealer. The free oil change my service advisor gave me for my trouble doesn't do much to ease my mind.
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Does anyone know of an Edmunds (or other) forum that discusses PRE-1990 Civics (I just purchased an '86 Civic Wagon). I don't want to waste folks' time on this board. If you know of one, please email me (since I think you'll get your hand slapped if you post it) my email address is in my profile. Thanks a bunch!
    elissa
  • chaz1chaz1 Member Posts: 3
    Hello Everyone, I just purchased a used 2002 Honda Civiv SiR about 1.5 weeks ago. I love this car, I can't say enough good things about it. 1 question though, does anyone else ever get the gears grinding a bit when shifting from 4th to 5th? It doesn't happen all the time but does happen often enough. I am not speed shifting and the clutch is fully engaged when I shift. I also find that 1st to 2nd can be a bit clunky but not that bad at all. I have had other manual Honda's before but have not seemed to experiece these situations.

    Let me know what you think. Have a great day.

    Chaz
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    You may want to get yours checked out.
  • driveradrivera Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone,

    I recently purchased a 1995 Civic Si with 156,000 miles (yikes!), but it runs well. I do have one quesstion, though. My gas tank is about 10 or 11 gallons and driving around town I only get 200 miles to a tank before I fill up. When I fill up I can put a little more than 8 gallons in, which equals out to maybe 23-25 mpg. This is all city driving in LA. Can you give me some numbers to compare.

    Thanks,
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Check out your car's expected fuel economy at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ , which says for your car... assuming an automatic with 1.6L engine you should get around 26 mpg in the city and 34 on the hwy. Next time you fill up, measure exactly how far you drove since your last fillup using your trip odometer and divide the exact miles you drove by the exact number of gallons you fill up with (bring a calculator with you and include and decimal points). If you consistently get below 26 mpg check your driving style. Do you accelerate hard and brake hard, use your A/C and drive with your windows open alot, haul heavy stuff, make frequent short trips on a cold engine...?

    I would worry about engine performance if you drive conservatively in the city and consistently get below 23 mpg or so... To give you a comparison, I have a brand new Subaru Forester Turbo with fuel efficiency expectancies at 19 mpg for city and 24 mpg for highway. Last weekend I was shopping with my husband in San Francisco with the car all day, short trips, up hills, frequent stopping. I got 17.5 mpg on that tank. Yuck. However, on a recent 300 mile highway trip on I-80 with the cruise on, I got 30 mpg!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    all Civic SIs were manuals, even back then? I thought the SI went away after 1994, but I guess not. I never saw any new ones after that until they brought in the coupe for '99.

    25 mpg for all city driving sounds OK, if not great.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Try using a "fuel injector cleaner" in the fuel of your vehicle.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    You are right, Civic Si has never had a manual, and hopefully never will.

    As with the original poster's mileage, he/she has not come back with more info as far info on his/her driving style (racing from light to light), A/c useage, load. Dirty air filter, bigger rims/wheels combo, heavy sound system, high wattage electrical use, body kits, and general bling bling, improper octane rated gas (ether higher or lower than recommended), heavier engine oil grade are all contributors to lower gas mileage. If the car is purely stock and is giving bad mileage while not being raced, it is time for a complete tune up.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    If the poster with the automatic Si is in Canada that would explain how they have a Si automatic. The Canada Civic Si is the US Civic EX. The Canada SiR is the US Si. IIRC that is.
  • jmiller417jmiller417 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for the tip. I've been thinking about that; just a matter of getting to Pep Boys to get it.

    Hopefully it'll fix my problem.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The OP said he/she is driving in LA, last time I checked LA (either Los Angeles, or Louisisana) was in US. Either the person has a gray market Canadian Si (which would make it an EX) Or whoever sold the car, had either EX, or LX and slapped an "Si" on it and sold it as Si. Hey, if that is the case, I can have a Civic Type R for sale in 20 minutes, lol. Any takers?
    Speaking of labels people put on cars, every day on my way to work, I see a Geo Metro with a "5.0" on it.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    You never know blueidgod, there is an Ontario, CA so there could be a LA in Canada ... :)

    I saw a 1990 or so Corolla once with a Z28 sticker.
  • dougw51dougw51 Member Posts: 1
    I've had my 04 SI for 3 months now and it has an incredibly annoying habit -- it howls like a banshee at high speeds. If it is a relatively windless day it will start howling at @ 90mph. If it is windy out it could start howling at @ 75mph. I know what the source of the problem is -- the moonroof. Anyway, has any one else experienced this problem with their SI (current model?)? If so, was your dealer able to take care of the problem for you? Please advise.
  • driveradrivera Member Posts: 2
    The car is in Los Angeles, and it's a manual, and yes it's a 1995. Last year of the Si hatchbacks until the current generation showed up.

    The site says 29city/35 highway.

    There are no mods on the car, all stock. I rarely drive with the AC on (it's not that cold anyway: leak?), but the windows are always rolled down and the sunroof is open. I usually go about 35-40 mph, sometimes up to 50, but this is all on surface streets, and I rarely travel at a steady speed. I usually shift around 3-4K rpms because this car has no torque and you need to rev it that high to get any decent acceleration.

    I guess it's time for a tuneup if I'm only getting 23-25, but sometimes those gov't ratings are overrated.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Sounds like you do need a tune up.
    I usually shift around 3-4K rpms because this car has no torque and you need to rev it that high to get any decent acceleration.

    That is not high by Honda standards at all. Take it to redline (8000 RPM??) once in a while, let the VTEC stretch its legs. I don't know if it will improve your MPG's, probably won't, but you will see the other side of the "Jeckyl and Hyde" Civic you have. The old VTEC completely transformed the vehicle at or above 5000 RPM. Although the new i-VTEC is more refined, sometimes I miss the old VTEC kick at 5000 RPM. I do love the low RPM torque of the i-VTEC engines though.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    I had a question, what's probably the best year round oil for my 2000 Civic SI? I keep hearing 0w-20 is good for civic si's but isnt that too thin for a car that rev's high like the SI and is it even for the 2000 Civic sI?? Right now I've been putting 10w-30 drive mobil clean plus synthetic blend but i was thinking maybe if i should switch it to Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 or 0w-20 since the oil tank cap says 5w-30. The car has 80k miles on it. Has had 3000 mile changes ever since purchase.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Mobil 1 0W-20 is for the 2002 and up Civic Si, which uses 5W-20. If the oil cap says 5W-30, then use Mobil 1 5W-30.
    I see no harm from using full Mobil 1, there is a chance that worn out seals will leak. It only means that they were cracked already and patched up with grime, and the synthetic oil just cleaned the seals. Eventually, those seals would have failed anyway. So, it is not like synthetic oil caused the leak, it just made more obvious.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    But would mobil 1 help much in my car? Honda reccomends 10w for 20 degrees and up and 5w year round. So far I've done 5w to 10w switching season to season. Do you think if I stuck 5w-30 in right now it'd be good, or probably not lube enough? Cause I live in NC the temps get around 90 till september.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Either weight of Synthetic oil will be better than dyno oil. But the biggest difference synth make in winter, during cold starts. This is when your engine needs lubrication the most. After all the oil has drained into the pan, dyno oil will be thicker on start up before engine warms up and may take a little longer to makes its way up the cold connecting rod to the piston to lubricate the rings.

    I am still puzzled about car and oil manufacturer's citing outside temperature as a factor. The engine temperature is pretty much constant if the cooling system is working properly. If it is very cold outside, the thermostat will stop the flow to the radiator, thus preserving heat, and if it is hot, then the radiator should be able to dissipate the heat to maintan engine temps the same, or close to the optimum level.

    So, to answer your question, stick with what Honda recommends. Since there is no Mobil 1 5W-20, 0W-20 may be too thin and seep past the rings, or seals. This is just my opinion, and should not be taken as gospel.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    The only thing is, what are the chances in the 2000 civic si with 80k miles of an oil leak when switching over to 5w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic from my normal 10w-30 5w-30 dyno oil.

    by the way, Castrol Syntec comes in 5w-20 , or should I still get 5w-30 mobil 1?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Castrol Syntec is not sythetic, but rather high purified dyno oil. Some said that if you find Castrol Syntec with "Made in Germany" label, that it is synth. But, I would rather not take a chance and spend $4/quart to not know whether it is synth or not. Mobil 1, is the only fully sythetic oil sold retail. Royal Purple and Amsoil are good, but are not widely available.

    As to the oil leak, if the seals are not damaged there is no reason for synth to create leaks. If the seals are damaged, sooner or later they will leak, gunk is what is holding them up now. Synth will just clean the gunk. Some have suggested swithcing to semi-synth, and then to full synth as an alternative. I see no harm in doing so. Once again, I do not guarantee that you will not have leaks. No one can. And stay away from things such as "Engine restorer"
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    Ok one laaast question about my SI hehe. So it has 80k miles on it.

    Honda reccomends a timing belt change at 105k as well as a spark plug change. They also reccomended a coolant change at 75k. I'm already at 80k, but my engine doesnt seem to have cooling problems, teh temp guage is fine.-

    Also would it be a waste of money to change my timing belt and plugs 25k early, or would that probably be a waste.

    And yeh I will be getting the 5w-30 Mobil 1. I already have synthetic blend mobil in it and it hasn't caused any leaks, now its been 3000 miles on that so eh I might as well change even though its early, to get on synthetic before I get busy with college in september.
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Member Posts: 1,339
    Don't omit the cooling system service - your temp gauge tells you nothing about the health of your cooling system. After 75K miles, the anti-corrosion chemicals in the coolant are pretty much depleted, so the system needs a thorough flush and refill with new coolant. Obviously, this is also the time to check all the cooling system hoses, since replacing them now makes the most sense. Finally, if you are that close to needing a timing belt, you should consider replacing the water pump at the same time since the labor to do that job involves disturbing the timing belt. If you plan to keep the car, just do it all and you'll be all set.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    For my civic si
    Ok , do you think I'd really need Honda's Coolant? Pep boys will do a 49.95 coolant flush and fill with their proline coolant. Do you think I need their Chemical Flush and Fill? thats 10 bucks more, they put a chemical compound in it to clean it out.

    Is this a ripoff for a coolant change?
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    a simple drain and refill removes coolant and sediment only and does nothing to flush out the rust and build up in the system. the flush chemical will help with that, and that in turn improves your car's cooling abilities (when it's not rust-impeded). I'd recommend the flush as well for $10. your cooling system is vital to not only your car's ability to be reliable for you (you've seen those folks on the side of the road with an overheated engine) but also helps preserve engine longevity. If your car cooling system is neglected and the engine gets too hot it can cause not only a dangerous situation for you but can ruin vital engine parts and result in very expensive engine rebuild jobs.
    elissa
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Member Posts: 1,339
    If done correctly, using a chemical flush isn't a bad idea, but the flush needs to be thorough. Scale and sediment may accumulate in your engine, but you aren't going to see much rust if you have an all aluminum engine and an aluminum radiator core - this is a non-ferrous environment, so there isn't much to rust ;-) Whatever coolant you use, it should meet Honda specs, which means it needs to be aluminum friendly and phosphate-free.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Since you sai "eh" can I assume you are from Canada, and thus the si is really an EX?

    Anyway, it would not hurt to do the timing belt, as well as the water pump. Plugs, wires, rotor/cap, fuel filter, air cleaner, other belts should probably be replaced at this time as well, if they have not been replaced. You can squeeze 20,000 miles out of the original belt and plugs, and defer the $600 bill a few months.

    As to antifreeze, I would strongly suggest that you stay with Honda's antifreeze. It comes pre-diluted at $8-10/gallon, and you will need about two gallons. Other brands contain silicates, which can behave as abrasive to the Honda's water pumps. Honda anti-freeze is crystal clear.
    The reason Honda suggests replacing it at 75K is because that is the life of it, just like brake fluid has to be replaced every 3 years, no matter how many miles you drive. Would you try to eat something that has expired a few months ago? Even though it looked like it was still ok?
    I would stay way from "Pep boys" as service center. Find a private shop that specializes in Honda's. The best way is to learn how to do it on your own. That way you will know exactly what has been done. Plus the satisfaction of knowing that you "done that" is priceless.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    One last thing. Do you think I really need to use Mobil 1 synthetic to make this engine go 250k or 300k miles? What if I just use Mobil Drive Clean Plus Synthetic Blend 5w-30 oil for the rest of the life of the vehicle? Or could synthetic buy me more mileage and performance? Cause a Synthetic blend oil change is only 20 bucks a mobil 1 change is 35-40.

    Yes I will get the Honda Coolant for my Car. However in my manual it says the coolant tank only holds .89gal capacity. So I would think I only need one gallon bottle of coolant.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Historically, Honda engines lived past 300,000 miles on just dyno oil. So, if cost is of concern then go with a cheaper option. If you are going to change your oil every 3750 miles, then go with regular quality dyno oil. I do Mobil 1 changes every 5000-6000 miles. Also, if cost is a concern, the DIY cost is only $30-$35, buy oil at walmart $28/case of 6 (you'll only need 5), and Mobil 1 filter $4-$5. Sometimes Autozone has a promotion where if you buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1, you get Mobil 1 filter for free.

    Chances are that you will get bored with the car or it will be stolen before the 300,000 miles. The 1999-2000 Civic Si is one of the most stolen cars. The B16 engine in it is one of the most desired engines after the B18 from the Integra GSR. Every kid with a CX hatchback wants to put in the B16 in his car to maximize the power to weight ratio. And the fact that B16/B18 will go into any Civic from 1986-2000 is not helping thieft rates.
    There is a kid in my town who has a 1996 Civic DX with a blue hood from the 99 Si. This is plain stupid, the Si hood is no lighter than the stock 96 hood, but the kid thinks otherwise. Check out ebay, everything Si drives the price up, even though most of the 1999-2000 Si is the same as EX coupe.
    If you bought it used, I would ran carfax on it before buying it. The market has gone wild to the point, that some unscrupulous mechanics would buy a 1999-2000 Civic Si shell from the insurance company, stick an EX, or worse LX/DX engine in it and sell it to some unsuspecting kid who thinks he got the Si.
    On the positive side, the 1999-2000 Si has some of the highest resale values to day. I belive the going price for 1999 Si with 40,000 (true) miles, that has not been raced or modified is $12-$14K. That is not bad considering it sold for $16K in 1999. Problem is, there are almost no "unmolested" Si's out there. Even if someone had one with "just the bigger wheels" the wheel bearings are not designed to handle the higher rotational inertia, that would make me question the longevity of the hubs, and maybe CV joints.

    coolant tank only holds .89gal capacity
    You are not replacing the coolant in the overflow tank only, you are replacing coolant in the whole system: the engine, radiator, heater, and the tank. I don't have the manual for your car infornt of me, but my Si holds 6-7 quarts. Yes, I have bigger 2.0 engine, but yours may be 4-5 quarts. Your owners manual should list the capacities and specifications. If you live in southern climates where weather does not go bellow freezing, or you will never drive into areas where it gets cold, you may get away with one gallon, and add a quart of deionized or distilled water. But remember that Honda coolant is already dillutted 50%.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    Is there anyway to secure down a 2000 Civic SI so it has less of a chance of being stolen, even though I live in a small town. Like something to deter joyriders.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Like something to deter joyriders
    People who steal Si's are not joyriders, they are professional chop shop operators. They are not going to steal the car to have fun, they want the internals.
    The best way is to garage it, and maybe install a kill switch. You would have to install your self, that way no one will know where it is and how it is wired. Alarms are useless when dealing with professionals.
    When I had a VW, I wired the kill switch into the headlight switch circuit. When I shut off the car, I would turn the head light switch to the "ON' position. Since I rewired the headlights with relays, the headlight would not come on, but the fuel pump was disabled unless the head light switch was turned "off" before putting key in the ignition.
    In the 1999 Civic I had, I wired the kill switch inside the center storage bin. And still, someone tried to steal it. I ended up with busted up steering column, ignition lock, steering wheel (I had club on it as well) and passneger side window seal.
    Not saying what I did to my current Si, but no one wants it anyway, because it is not the most potent Civic anymore, RSX-S is. Both have chip in the key, which may buy us some time, until someone figures out a way to fool the computer, or mess with the immobilizer.
    If you don't think you can't do it your self and have to have "professional" do it, go as far away from home as possible, and try not to divulge your address. The best would be to go while you have paper plates, as they are more difficult to trace. I know it sounds paranoid, but I have lived in the Bronx for 10 years, and have seen things that you would not believe.
    You said in the original post that you will be taking the car to school, you may want to do the kill switch before school starts, and NEVER, EVER tell anyone about its location, unless you know them really well.

    Oh, and if your Si is not blue, then remove the Si badges. You may fool amateurs into thinking it was an EX. If it is blue, then everyone and their mother knows it is an Si.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    I actually heard about that peeling window down, destroy steering wheel column thing on other peoples civic's at school. Why would a thief do that, break the wheel off like you said, then how would they drive it?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Why would a thief do that, break the wheel off like you said, then how would they drive it?
    I don't think I am about to divulge information that a professional car thief does not already know.
    It is a design flaw with Honda Civic/CR-V ignition lock assembly. Although it is designed to lock the steering wheel when key is taken out, it is made of brittle alloy. By destroying the ignition lock they can free the steering shaft to rotate. The ignition switch itself, can be turned on by hand once it is freed from the ignition lock assembly.
    If you have a "Club" or other steering wheel device, a thief would either freeze the lock out, making it brittle and succeptible to breakage. Also, "Club approach" has a major flaw, even though the "Club" itself is made of tough material, the steering wheel is not. Instead of cutting the "Club" thief cuts the steering wheel rim to remove the "Club." Another way a thief bypasses "Club" is by pulling really hard on it, I had foot prints on my dashboard from thief's trying to pull the "Club" off. The pull deforms the wheel rim and allows thief to remove the "Club" intact. Some thieves have replacement steering wheels to drive your car with if they destroy the original steering wheel to the point where it is unusable.

    Here is a story from a few years back: (before Giulliani)
    I am in the middle of Times Square, at 8 or 9 pm on a Satrurday, and it is crowded with people. I see this Camaro parked by the mail box, and a guy with a screwdriver stabbing the door lock, right infront of everybody. It took him less time to open the door than it would have taken me with a key. He was inside the car, messing with the ignition. I flagged a NYPD cruiser, told him that I thought that the car was being stolen. Cops approached the car, as I was watching.
    They asked him for the papers, he wanted to go to his bag, they took the bag from him and spread him eagle on the hood of the Camaro. As they are going through the bag, he jumped up and turned mid flight, and started running downtown. The cops gave him a foot chase for a block or so, and gave up. This shows you that police are not that interested in chasing "petty" car thieves.
    Your best protection is something not so ordinary and mass market as a car alarm. You need something that a thief would not know how to disable. There are car thievs training at junk yards on how to disable the newest security guizmos. But they can not train on something that they don't know about.
    Did you ever see "Gone in 60 seconds"?
    Good luck.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    Why do you think EX and DX Civic's are stolen more than SI's? I keep seeing that on all the reports. The Accord, the Civic EX and DX are all stolen more often than the SI.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    They just made more of the other models.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    Do you think there is a mileage at which the guys won't steal the car. I mean if its at like 120000 miles won't they not want it since the engine is so worn by then?
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    But then are you going to want a car with that many miles? I don't think 120,000 is too many miles.
  • vdhariavdharia Member Posts: 14
    Whats the point of really owning this SI if I just have to worry about it being stolen all the time? I ruins the fun if you can't just leave it stock and lock the doors. What cars are made so that they're really nice and fast and also cheap but so the guys won't steal it.
  • taykinitezytaykinitezy Member Posts: 56
    I had a 2000 Civic for a couple years before I read that it was in the top ten list of stolen vehicles. Being a 4dr I thought it looked like my grandmother's car and didn't see why it would be a target. Shortly after that I saw a top ten list for my state (Ohio) and the Civic wasn't listed anywhere, here in Ohio the top stolen list seemed to be the usual domestics like the Olds Cutlass and F-150's etc. I've read somewhere that the imports are typically stolen on the east and west coasts and near Mexico.........
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    People want the engines out of the 99-00 Si's. People want the seats out of the 02+ Si's. As for the other Civics, people just want them for parts. They can sell the parts on ebay and make a killing. Typically, with the exception of the Si, older cars will be the primary target because of the increased demand for parts. Any car can get stolen. Just get a good alarm, good insurance, and watch where you park the car.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Like Gee said, there are more EX's and DX's, Hypothetically speaking if there are 400,000 "regular" Civics, and 40,000 Si's, and the reports said that 20,000 "regular" Civics were stolen and only 10,000 Si's were stolen. That means only 5% of "regular" Civics get stolen while 50% of Si's are stolen. So, yes, twice as many "regular" Civics were stolen, but Si has a 10 times greater chance of being stolen.

    As far as Si with 120,000 miles, it makes no difference to the thief First of all they are not going to look at the odo. Secondly, they can always sell the engine, claiming that it "only" had 50,000 miles. No one can prove otherwise unless they tear it down and check the bores, which in Honda case, will not show anything if the car was maintaned properly. 120,000 miles on a Honda engine that has been maintaned is barely broken in.
    I have an 88 Prelude 4WS, it has 127,000 miles, the engine still starts on the first crank, purrs like a kitten, and can still outrun most of the cars on the road. The body is going, but the drive train is in excellent condition.
    My first introduction to Honda was an 85 Civic DX Hatch, I bought it with 200,000 miles drove it for a few years, and sold it for as much as I bought it for. The car still runs, with 375,000 miles. The kid that I sold it to loves it.

    And you are right, what is the point of having a car that you can not enjoy. That is why, you should enjoy it while you have it. Nothing is permanent in this world. Take it to the red line, enjoy the VTEC change over. Take the most twisted road to exploit the suspension limits.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    "My first introduction to Honda was an 85 Civic DX Hatch, I bought it with 200,000 miles drove it for a few years, and sold it for as much as I bought it for. The car still runs, with 375,000 miles. The kid that I sold it to loves it."

    I had the same experience with Honda and Toyota. And it equates to three new Hondas and a pristine 1994 Lexus LS400 sitting in my driveway right now.
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