Honda Civic Si / SiR 2005 and earlier

vdharia

Wait so why aren't the 2001-2004 Honda Civic's on that high of a steal rate compared to the older ones? Will they ever be?

anonymousposts

Again, cars are stolen for parts. There isn't as high of a demand for parts from the 01+ Civics yet withthe exception of the seats from the 02+ Si's.

blueiedgod

Like Annony said, cars are stolen for parts. Here is something that may get the post deleted. This has to do with socio-economic mind set. People who can afford to buy new cars are used to paying for the things they own. So, if someone owns a 2001-2004 Civic and it breaks, chances are it is under warranty. And if it is not, the person would not go as far as steal or have someone steal a "healthy" vehicle to transfer the parts. This is a different story with some of the people who can not afford to buy many things (read poor), some are bareley making the ends meet, and some have no psychological barrier to taking someone elses property. Their train of thought is, "if you have it and I want it, I have all the rights to just take it from you. You are the reason that I am poor." To that kind of person, there is nothing wrong with stealing your property, be it your car, your stereo, your kid's bike, or jewlery. I am not saying that poor people are all like that. There are welthy people who steal as well. But chances are that your local car thief does not hold a law degree from Harvard. Those are involved in more elborate embezzelment schemes.
Maybe Koran's criminal law, closely followed by the Taliban in modern times, had the best solution for thievery. You steal first time, they chop off your left hand. Steal again, chop off your right hand. And, I think, it also involved branding "thief" on the forehead. This is how I felt when my car was violated the first time.

gee35coupe

Sylvia

let's get back to the discussion of the car and move away from any politics/class warfares/stereotypes. We all have our own theories on why people do things and are entitled to those opinions - - - I just don't want us to go off-track of the discussion too far.

Thanks.

andysandiego

Which is the better buy?
AndySanDiego

gee35coupe

The FP package does not include a power increase. It's all suspension work.

andysandiego

In general, there's not much interest in this subject on the Civic sedan forum, so am wondering if there's more know-how/interest on this subject here.

I'm interested in a new exhaust system for an ’04 EX sedan. Today, I went to the local Meineke Car Care Center. For about $300 I can get a new system. They’ll remove the stock resonator (a small muffler) which becomes straight-through 2” pipe, then a series 60 Flowmaster muffler (not Series 40 which would be too loud), and a chrome tip. The manager, said it will result in about 10% horsepower gain – enough that I will really feel. That would take it to 140 h.p., Miata territory.

My question is whether this will be too loud, and if it seems like a good idea in general. Any comments would be appreciated.

blueiedgod

I think freeing up exhaust, includuing new headers, removal of cat, and the system you described will yeild at most 5% HP at higher RPM and will lower your torque output at the low RPM's. You need some back pressure to generate torque form small displacement engine.If you are going to modify brand new car, at least wait until your stock system has rotten away.

The 10% power gain would probably happen on a very restricitve stock system on a korean or other poorly designed vehicle. Don't you think Honda would have installed the most potent street legal system on your car to boast 140 hp from factory?

vdharia

I had a question, if I am replacing my coolant. Can I use Prestone 50/50 prediluted coolant? 2 Gallons of it. And do I need to do a flush after draining the coolant, and do I need an actual flushing chemical, for a 2000 SI at 80k miles?

gee35coupe

I'm sure any coolant would be fine....But personally, I would go back with Honda stuff. It's gotten you through this long, why change?

andysandiego

Thanks for comments, but maybe we can discuss them a bit.

For four-stroke engines, reducing exhaust backpressure is accepted as a way to get more power. Racers of stock cars often replace street exhaust with system of less back pressure when at the track, and noise limits often are set to limit just how open they can be. You better bring ear protectors to a Formula One race.

Another example is most people who buy a new Harley change the exhaust as the first step (and rejet to take advantage of it). I have been there/done that with a new Harley, and you can definitely feel the difference.

I think backpressure tuning is an issue with two-stroke motorcycle engines.

It's worth it to me to spend $300 now for better sound, even if the horsepower gain should turn out to be modest. I'm tempted to spend $80 (times two)to dynomometer it before and after.

aaronpan

Few days ago, I was running with a Mustang and I accidently let the engine ran over 7000rpm at first gear. For about 3 or more seconds, rpm bounced back to around 5000rpm by engine itself while I was still holding the gas pedal. (I thought my engine was going dead at the time.)
Did I kill my engine already?
After all, I got this wood or paper burning smell inside the car (maybe from the engine). Can anyone tell me if I damaged the engine badly?! I didn't notice anything unusual from the engine, but somehow I am a bit worrying...
(mine is '02 Si with 16k)
Any opinion will be appreciated.
Thanks!

blueiedgod

If you really wanted to get power, you would have saved $800 and gotten more power by purchasing a Civic EX with a 5 spd manual. Now, you are going to spend another $300 to get somewhere where a 5 spd civic would be running on really really bad gas and quart low on oil.

This reminds me of a joke that was floating around a while back, it was called "Only in America"
Only in America you get double cheeseburger with supersized fries and a diet drink.
Only in America Pizza Hut guarantees 15 minute delivery but Ambulances can take up to 30 minutes.
Only in America.....

If you are after the noise, then I have a few solutions for you. One, burn a CD with exhaust noise from a 1983 Chevy Cavalier and listen to it. Second, drill a hole in your stock muffler, it will make it louder.

blueiedgod

Read the manual, it clearly explains what happends when you engage the rev limiter. No, you did not kill your engine, the only way to kill it would be to downshift from 4th at redline into 3rd or 2nd. The K20 engine is pretty durable but will self destruct at or above 10,000 rpm. In stock form K20A3 with a Hondata flash can rev to 8000-8500 RPM or so. K20A2 revs to that stock in RSX Type S.

Manual is your friend, my friend.

I was running with a Mustang unless it was an auto mustang with a 4 or 6 cylinder, pick your fights wiseley.

edunnett

If in another 10K miles you start noticing problems with your first gear and first gear synchro... or start getting random oil leaks (pump and pistons), there may be a correlation. If you do, I'd love to know. I've always wondered if a particular strip of road in first gear in my manual subaru (without the rev limitter tmk) was to blame for that later engine and tranny demise.
elissa

aaronpan

Thanks for your info. But I'm wondering why would the RPM bounced back? Did it bounced back because I reached its limit? Is it possible that my engine ran into max rpm on the meter and bounced back? Could it be the protection of the engine itself?
Sorry for continuous questions. I just need to get it out of my mind.

aaronpan

I'll let you know if any problem discovered. But it's gonna take a while for reaching another 10K though~

vdharia

I had question, would it really be worth it to change the pump and timing belt at only 80k miles in a 2000 civic si? I mean honda reccomends it at 105k, so couldnt I go like another 15k atleast before replacing it? Do you think I need the actual OEM Honda parts, they are usually twice the off brands.

5port

aaronpan:

      You bounced off of the "rev limiter". Most cars have rev limiters for the engine's sake. I'm not sure what honda's method is but most rev limiters work like this:

When you pass red line by a couple hundred RPM the ECM :

1) Starts dropping cylinders one at a time until you cannot rev any higher.

2) Limits the fuel flow via the injectors to barely nothing.

3) If you completely ignore the above events the ECM (electronic control module) will try to shut the engine down.

  As you can see the above events will make your tach go a little crazy.

aaronpan

Is there any way that I can know if my 02 Si has rev limiter?

aaronpan

I just got the info from the manual. lol

dalaw

If you read in the manual about the tachometer, it will tell you about the redline and that there is a rev limiter that will prevent you from breaking your engine. I think its also called a fuel cutoff. When the computer senses that your are revving too high, it would cut fuel supply to your engine. So if you dont let go of the gas pedal when the engine is at redline, it would repeatedly bounce back and forth between around 6500 rpm and the 7000 rpm redline.

john500

The engine is fine. I've hit the rev limiter about three times so far (did not notice any burning smell). The true red-line is probably 8-10,000 rpm. The rev-limiter protects the engine from any significant damage. All of the recent SI's have rev limiters (02-current).

si2002owner

Well, nive to be back, after a long time with computer problems.....
As for the car, I did too reach the "red zone" when my car was 3 months old and racing. Engine went off but nothing afterwards.
The clutch issue, i had it twice, and got it checked by Honda, and after a day in the shop problem solved.
The one that concerns me the most is the steering wheel, a couple of weeks ago i was driving the car fairly loaded (more than i normally do, but under the maximum load) and noticed this creaking sound coming from the steering wheel, it kind of sounded like a friction problem from inside the car, not the engine area, dealer couldn't find a thing.
About the tires, back in May I changed the original Michelins for Bridgestone Potenza 950 (i think that's the model) and i love/hate them. I love the grip, but it feels weird, may be that sidewalls are too soft, but it doesn't corner like it did with MXV's, in the highway it get a little scary, when changing lanes rapidly, it kinds of sways.... Anybody had any of the problems listed????
Thanks and good seeing you guys again.

gee35coupe

Car drives like new.

muffin_man

Apparently lots of people are having problems with their steering units, a problem that is aggravated by lowering the car. Some drivers call it the coffin creak, i have it like crazy.

Apparently, there was a redesign for the steering components of the 03+ Ep. But lots of problems for 02 drivers.

si2002owner

Thanks for the info muffin ;-)

taykinitezy

Steering in my '04 also creaked, not really noticable while driving but evident when turning the wheel when stopped. Had the dealer take a look. Even though they said they didn't see anything wrong they replaced the struts (at their suggestion). Creaking is gone.......

oceania2003

I am located in Eastern Canada and have a 1993 Civic 2 door coupe automatic.
I want to buy a complete A/C unit to fit it. New or used.
How can I find one ??
Dennis

5port

You may have to call a honda dealer and ask them who they use for installation of AC. If they tell you they do it themselves get an estimate. You may be able to find a used system but as far as installation from scratch a new system is alot easier.

When I bought my 87 Chevy Sprint Turbo I called the chevy dealer a couple months later for AC install. They gave me the name of the people they use and I went there. Cost was $700 then.

kauai215

Problem #1: Squeaking clutch pedal.

Solution: Clutch piston shaft lubricated. Problem not only solved, but the clutch pedal action much smoother than ever. Quick and simple. (Why on earth are dealers, as some report, replacing the hydraulic components?)

Problem #2: Creaking steering at slow speeds (aka “coffin creak” :-)

Solution: (Tentative) “Re-torque the damper shafts.” That’s Brit-speak for properly torquing the bolts securing the front struts/shocks. See further thoughts on this below.

Regarding #2 above, I found the creaking noise unlike anything I could think of that would require strut replacement as some dealers have done as instructed by one TSB, apparently. Our ’02 Si creaked at low speeds and large steering deflection, such as in parking maneuvers. Low speed sharp turns produced creaking towards the end of the steering travel. We had this for some time, but it went away. Haven’t heard it in awhile.

But we took the Si in for it’s first and only warranty service to correct a few problems that we accumulated over the first 33,000+ miles. We’ve subsequently learned that there have been a couple of TSBs that may address this problem. The first TSB recommended strut replacement, which at least one member here had done. I was skeptical that strut replacement was necessary. Apparently, the second TSB notes that at least one bolt securing the struts had not been properly torqued at the factory during assembly.

Now THAT makes sense to this man. The creaking comports with something not being quite tight enough. Not so loose as to “clunk,” but just barely not-quite-tight-enough to “creak.” Our mechanic, an ex-Trans-Am crew chief (very, very good, in other words), pursued our “complaint,” found the second TSB, checked the bolts, and found that “Yes!” one of the locking bolts (gold anodized, he said) was not tightened properly. He re-torqued them for each strut.

So, did that fix our problem? Can’t say, since the creaking had already gone away. All the same, he found “loose” bolts, and torqued them to spec.

I’ll be surprised if this problem recurs.

I love this mechanic; he’s a can-do, solution-oriented, honest professional. He’s the best, I trust him, and I’ll follow him to whatever dealership he goes to so long as he can work on our cars on the rare occasion they need attention beyond the work I can do.)

Naturally, those who had struts replaced (probably needlessly) also presumably had the new struts PROPERLY bolted in, which solved the problem, too, but it likely had nothing to do with the new struts -- just proper installation. The Brits don’t have a good reputation for bolting automobiles together.

I’d be interested in reading whether these solutions to these two troublesome problems work for the rest of you, too.

Let me know, won’t you, please?

I believe Honda corporation means well, but sometimes they need guidance, as do all of us owners out here who enjoy our fine cars and just want them to work, as I like to put it: as well as the design and materials permit. (Actually, that’s asking a great deal. I’m demanding. ;-)

Kauai (a satisfied Honda Si owner this evening :-)

blueiedgod

It might be cheaper to buy a Civic with A/c rather than have one installed. Like previous poster said be prepared to pay as much as $1000 US for new. If you have a junk yard, see if they have a 1991-1995 civic and see if you can salvage the system, although it may not be fully functional or broken. I think JC Whitney have some aftermarket, generic A/c systems. Installation is very involved though.

oceania2003

Hi From PEI,
I just purchased a mint 1993 Civic Coupe, but it did not come with A/C.
I do want to install air conditioning. Does anyone know where i could buy an after-market kit or a complete unit from salvage.
And who would be the best in the Maritime Procinces to install this besides a dealer ??

Please reply,
Dennis

blueiedgod

Stop refreshing. You would have to do your own legwork. There are only a few junk yards that have online inventory. Most junk yard operators here, Hunts point and such, have no clue what a computer is.

Like I said earlier to check out JCWhitney, and they do infact have add on a/c system.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/storeId- - - -10101/makeId-1000117/p-1842/c-10101/catalogId-10101

You still need to find an installer, who will charge and arm and a leg for installation.

Good luck.

p.s. You should not expect people to do your legwork. Take a saturday and drive around in your neck of the woods, from one shop to another and ask if they would do it. Some may even charge you less with install than it is from JC Whitney.

joeyp

What size are the speakers in the 2002 to 2005 Honda Civic SiR??

blueiedgod

I believe they are 6 1/2 but check with http://www.crutchfield.com/

mitch1

I own a 2003 Honda Civic Hatchback Si. I will be moving to an area that has snowy winters and hilly streets. Will my car be able to handle this new area?

blueiedgod

You might want to post in the Si thread.

If you have stock wheels and tires, the combo is very capable of mild to medium snow duties. If you are moving to Alaska or northern Minnessotta, then you should invest in a set of steel wheels and snow tires from http://www.tirerack.com

mitch1

edunnett

I had to put snow tires on the front drive wheels of my old Civic hatch in the winter or she'd slide a bit more than I liked. With snows, she'd tear up the highways though.
elissa

crashton6

I'd suggest you go to www.tirerack.com & check out the snow tires. They make an amazing difference. I've always used four snow tires on dedicated wheels. I've used Blizzak's , but have since switched to Hakkapelitta 2's. Great tires!
I drive a Forester now, but may buy a Si as a replacement. My last Civic was a 92 Si, it was one of my all time favorite cars that I've owned. That's why I lurk here.

http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/tiresub.cfm?cid=1&sid=1

Chuck

edunnett

Chuck - funny, mine was a '93 Civic Hatch and she wore Hakkapalitas (sp?) in the snow. I more recently had an '01 and now and '04 Forester. I would love another new Civic but would like them to resurrect the hatchbacks w/o the Si package. Anyway, sounds like we like the same things in a car! :-)
elissa

nihao4587

Hi. Does anyone here ever drive a real spoon type-r besides the simulation in GT3? Where can I find detailed information about its engine? Why is its redline above 14,000? Does spoon really put an F1 engine in that poor civic? By the way, is it very easy to drop S2000's engine into civic si or RSX type-s of current generations? I know this might be off topic, but thank you for reading and replying.

carlisimo

Uh... you'll be hard pressed to find anyone who drives even a stock type-R in this country, let alone this forum. I didn't think they put engines that revved that high in them though.

And no, it's not easy to drop the S2000 engine in a Civic or RSX. It's been done, but it's not easy. It's meant to be mounted longitudinally...

blueiedgod

Hi. Does anyone here ever drive a real spoon type-r besides the simulation in GT3? Where can I find detailed information about its engine? Why is its redline above 14,000? Does spoon really put an F1 engine in that poor civic? By the way, is it very easy to drop S2000's engine into civic si or RSX type-s of current generations? I know this might be off topic, but thank you for reading and replying.

First of all, if you are interested in the new Si, search for a site dedicated to the new Si. The new Si body code is EP and it is a Hatch search you shall find.

I think the Spoon Si is a hype. An F1 engine with 14,000 RPM redline would be completely useless in street application. I would suspect that you would have to run on high octane which is not available from your loacal "Gas mart".

Civic Type R (CTR) in its JDM rendition produces 220 hp, 200 for Europe. But some people in the US have transplanted a K24 from TSX into the Si with much better torque response than S2000 engine. The RSX and Si are twins and most parts are interchangeablem including a more potent mill from the RSX type S.

CTR is available in this country at $25,000 without A/c, radio nor sunroof. Are you willing to pay that much for a Civic? Most people won't, this is why CTR is not sold here. Most people who whine about the lack of CTR are not capable of footing a $25K car purchase, and people who can buy a $25K vehicle, would not buy a Civic. TSX is a pretty sensible alternative to me.

anonymousposts

I would vote against that being the 06 Civic Si because Honda has already stated the next Si will be a coupe not a hatch.

jmiller417

It could be the Euro Type R, but I don't think they'd bring it over here.

That site also presents the Mazda Ibuki concept as the next Miata, but that has been pretty well debunked in the media. So I'm not sure how up to date that site is.

crashton6

I'd agree that that it may well be the euro model. Hatches are very popular over there. Not so here. They are with me though. They are ever so practical.

Chuck

nippononly

looks very similar to the '06 GTI in many ways.