Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

Michaell

oldfarmer50 said:

stever said:

Yep, pipes. Another Twitter shot.

So what's the deal with Edmunds buying a classic like that? Use it in comparisons with modern cars? Perk for Edmunds executives?

We want to know how our dues money is being spent.

This is not the first time they've done something like this ... they had an 80's Ferrari at one point, a first generation Miata that they modified as more of a track car and just recently got rid of an MB SL65 that cost them a year's college tuition in the last few months of ownership.

driver100

Road salt can lead to vehicle brake failure, U.S. agency warns | National Post

For years, U.S. investigators were puzzled why the brakes on thousands of U.S.-made trucks and SUVs were failing without warning. Brake failures were behind at least 107 crashes and there were fears the problem could affect up to two million vehicles

On Thursday, after four years of study, the National Highway Traffic & Safety Administration (NHTSA) said it had solved the mystery: Salt.

In a “broad” public warning, the agency told millions of Americans to “thoroughly wash the underside of their vehicles.” Investigators found unexpected brake failure could happen to anyone driving a 2008 and earlier vehicle in a cold-weather state.

“Brake lines, they’ll just rust away, and it seems to be happening sooner on newer cars,” said Clint McKenzie, a service manager at Active Green + Ross in Barrie, Ont.

“Which is pretty scary, given that if your brake line blows, your brakes are essentially gone.”

The NHTSA probe, which began in 2011, looked at GM trucks made in 1999-2003 after numerous reports some of the U.S.’s largest passenger vehicles seemed unusually prone to sudden brake failure. Among the suspects: the Cadillac Escalade, the Chevy Suburban and the GMC Yuko

The probe came to the chilling finding sudden brake line ruptures were not limited to a couple of million GM cars. Rather they could be a danger to anyone behind the wheel of an older model truck or SUV in one the U.S.’s “salt states.”

“Salt and other chemicals can accumulate on road surfaces, can accumulate on your vehicle’s underbody, and could put you and your passengers in danger,” says a safety video issued Thursday by NHTSA.

The precise tipping point identified by the report was only eight years. By that point, cars driven in “harsh conditions” would have built up enough corrosion to produce dangerous structural problems.

‘Salt and other chemicals can accumulate on road surfaces, can accumulate on your vehicle’s underbody, and could put you and your passengers in danger’

Hence, the agency’s call to cold-weather drivers to “regularly wash the undercarriage throughout the winter” and schedule at least two safety inspections a year.

abacomike

Driver, it would seem that vehicles titled and driven in the non-salt states are more valuable because of this phenomenon.  But those who live right near the ocean are bathed in salt air all year long.  I am 8 miles inland and we are not affected by salt air or moisture.

stever

They use a lot of salt up around Flagstaff, so just having Arizona plates isn't a sure bet either.

The "classic" '97 Miata is still in the fleet, although no one has written about it for a year. There's a lot of guys hoping the company will sell it and give employees first dibs on buying it.

This isn't the first used Corvette purchased for the long term fleet.

@oldfarmer50, sometimes there's an obvious editorial angle to getting something old (best used car under $x). Then again...

Who knows, maybe the '66 will get turned into another couch for the home office. Edmunds was founded in 1966 so maybe bigger plans are afoot.

fezo

"There's a lot of guys hoping the company will sell it and give employees first dibs on buying it."

They need to give the posters first dibs.....

stever

Hm, that means posting employees would be at the top of the list. I'm good with that.

I'm not sure how comfy the fleet Miata would be, unless they pull the mods and the roll cage. Even then my wife would not help me drive it back to Cruces.

Michaell

fezo said:

"There's a lot of guys hoping the company will sell it and give employees first dibs on buying it."

They need to give the posters first dibs.....

It will get sold .. eventually ... keep an eye out on the posts and you'll know when they get close to selling.

Edmunds also bought an old ES300 and ran it for some time as a cheap beater.

driver100

abacomike said:

Driver, it would seem that vehicles titled and driven in the non-salt states are more valuable because of this phenomenon.  But those who live right near the ocean are bathed in salt air all year long.  I am 8 miles inland and we are not affected by salt air or moisture.

In snow type areas you don't see very many cars that are more than 10 years old....they rust out by then. In Florida I see cars that are 20 years old and more and they look just about perfect. Another reason why Florida is a good place to live!

venture

nyccarguy said:

venture said:

nyccarguy said:

Hmmm - 1966? I have a little bit of 1966 knowledge buried in my brain. That's what my Dad has in his garage (427 cu /390 hp moss port green over black roadster with 4 on the floor). I can tell they bought a small block (327/350?). Is that Nassau Blue?

Yeah. It does appear to be a small block. If so, the side pipes may have been added. All of the frames had the slots under the door to install the side pipes. Of course you had to modify the rear valance then too so you didn't have the holes in it.

'66 was sort of an odd year for Corvette. I had a friend who had a '66 (at least I think it was a '66. I know it wasn't a '67 - it was a long time ago) with a 396 in it.

I didn't think the 396 was available in '66, just '65.

My Dad added the side pipes and still has the holes in the back of his '66.

Yes, according to Chevy the 396 was in 1965. I even remember asking him (now that I had time to think about it) how he had a 396 in his '66. He said it was a very early '66. He swore he didn't change the engine. It had that bubble type raised hood too. I also remember looking at the engine and the marking on the heads and it was a 396.

It had the '66 seats and radio knobs, etc. Just strange.

isellhondas

abacomike said:

Driver, it would seem that vehicles titled and driven in the non-salt states are more valuable because of this phenomenon.  But those who live right near the ocean are bathed in salt air all year long.  I am 8 miles inland and we are not affected by salt air or moisture.

I grew up (?) right on the ocean in so. California and rust was unheard of. Sometimes chrome would get pitted but never rust.

driver100

We have covered almost every topic under the sun here, but, I have a question about something not covered to my knowledge, and it relates to cars.

*When we got back from Florida one of the two garage doors did not open.
*We opened it manually, but about the 6th time it got stuck.
*I called the garage guy and they found it didn't work because the batteries on the wall control (2 AAA batteries) were dead and they lost the codes. Fair enough, they redid the codes, put the door on tracks, set the remote in the car, did an overhaul of the door system. It cost $118 but seemed to be OK to get everything working again.

*He did say the top of the door has a beam and because of all the tugging that is showing cracks, a guy will come out and do an estimate to get a new top beam.

*Guy gives me 3 senarios;
1.All new doors and windows. Door will break really badly one day. New doors are insulated and won't get cracks $2900.
2. Just get new top beam and top row replaced to make it stronger $1400
3. Just replace top beam. $318.

I think the original service men were very good and honest. I got a feeling they are doing a scare job on me with the rest. Sales guy thinks number 3 won't last and I'll have to do the others later, so will cost more. He kept saying they are Wayne Dalton doors and they aren't made that well. btw, doors are 6 years old.

Any ideas?

I am inclined to leave it and see what happens next. #3 option is not bad as it would fix the problem for now and at least the beam which has cracks in it could break apart.

driver100

isellhondas said:

abacomike said:

Driver, it would seem that vehicles titled and driven in the non-salt states are more valuable because of this phenomenon.  But those who live right near the ocean are bathed in salt air all year long.  I am 8 miles inland and we are not affected by salt air or moisture.

I grew up (?) right on the ocean in so. California and rust was unheard of. Sometimes chrome would get pitted but never rust.

I wondered about that...why are cars that are next to the ocean not affected by salt? I think the problem is road salt gets up and inside under the car, where there is exposed metal and rubber etc., but that is just my thinking.

abacomike

venture said:

nyccarguy said:

venture said:

nyccarguy said:

Hmmm - 1966? I have a little bit of 1966 knowledge buried in my brain. That's what my Dad has in his garage (427 cu /390 hp moss port green over black roadster with 4 on the floor). I can tell they bought a small block (327/350?). Is that Nassau Blue?

Yeah. It does appear to be a small block. If so, the side pipes may have been added. All of the frames had the slots under the door to install the side pipes. Of course you had to modify the rear valance then too so you didn't have the holes in it.

'66 was sort of an odd year for Corvette. I had a friend who had a '66 (at least I think it was a '66. I know it wasn't a '67 - it was a long time ago) with a 396 in it.

I didn't think the 396 was available in '66, just '65.

My Dad added the side pipes and still has the holes in the back of his '66.

Yes, according to Chevy the 396 was in 1965. I even remember asking him (now that I had time to think about it) how he had a 396 in his '66. He said it was a very early '66. He swore he didn't change the engine. It had that bubble type raised hood too. I also remember looking at the engine and the marking on the heads and it was a 396.

It had the '66 seats and radio knobs, etc. Just strange.

When I bought my Corvette from my Chevrolet Dealer on the near north side of Chicago in 1967, there were only 2 engines available - 327 cu in with 300 or 350 hp and the 427 cu in with 390, 400, 435, and they built 20 with the 430 hp version.

The color blue I had (and the one shown in the pictures) is called Marina Blue - the most popular.

http://www.vettefacts.com/C2/1967.aspx will give you all the specs and engine/carb combinations available that year along with options and amount produced.

abacomike

isellhondas said:

abacomike said:

Driver, it would seem that vehicles titled and driven in the non-salt states are more valuable because of this phenomenon.  But those who live right near the ocean are bathed in salt air all year long.  I am 8 miles inland and we are not affected by salt air or moisture.

I grew up (?) right on the ocean in so. California and rust was unheard of. Sometimes chrome would get pitted but never rust.

Winds during the evening and most of the winter are from the west, but the humidity levels are very low, nothing like the east coast. But during most of the days throughout the year, the winds are from the east (the desert - called Santa Ana winds). The cold pacific ocean causes inversions during the summer months whereby the hot easterly winds from the desert collide with the cool air on the coast and over the Pacific Ocean causing heavy clouds just a thousand or so feet thick that cover the coastal areas most of the summer until about 1:00 PM when they burn off.

I lived in San Diego and LA for about 4 years. I lived inland sufficiently where the sun always was shining. But if you drive west toward the ocean, about 4-6 miles inland, the air inversion blocks the sun for 1/2 of most days during the summer along the coastline only. In Poway or Carmel Mountain Ranch (about 10-12 miles inland and north of San Diego where I lived) temps would be in the mid to upper 80's while close to the coast, temps would be in the high 60's to mid 70's. If you got 90 miles east of LA or San Diego, temps would be in the 100-110 degree range. That is why San Francisco is only in the 60's during the summer with dense coastal clouds and why Sacramento (80 miles or so east from The Bay Area) temps are in the 100's.

After explaining all this, the reason cars don't rust in Southern and Central California is because of the low humidity levels and very little rain. When I lived in the Palm Springs area, many times we had "no" measurable precipitation for 2 and sometimes 3 years. All the water we used was from wells. Under the desert floor, there is a tremendous quantity of underground water. You just need to pump it to the surface using wells. But cars that spend most of their time right on the coast of California "do" rust at times because of the higher humidity levels during the summers and raining season in December through April.

stickguy

Driver, if you do something #3 is best bet. Though I would likelyvwait and see if it got worse. May never need it.

I had doors where thanks to how opener was installed it started separating the inner layer off. Repair guy just put a flat piece of metal behind the bracket. Problem solved. That was many years ago.

Mr_Shiftright

If you own a C2, you will definitely be spending money on it. Hopefully it has AC (gets real hot in there) and hopefully it works (very $$$ to repair).

robr2

But those groundwater sources are disappearing quickly and the lush lawns and fairways of the Coachella Valley may not that green in the years to come. The golf courses may have to start using treated sewage water for irrigation.

abacomike

robr2 said:

But those groundwater sources are disappearing quickly and the lush lawns and fairways of the Coachella Valley may not that green in the years to come. The golf courses may have to start using treated sewage water for irrigation.

Could be!  The southerneastern  end of the Coachella Valley Is well know for its citrus, dates and a myriad of truck farming that used to rely on a southern tributary of the Colorado River.  Now, deep well water is supplementing the scarce water resources and many of the farms are beginning to disappear.  The 45-50 golf courses in the northwestern part of the Coachella Valley are beginning to reduce watering (all reachable within 25 minute drives from Palm Springs).

The school I used to run had a large date-grove adjacent to it.  The date palms are watered underground to the roots - a trickling water source.  The further/farther south and east you go, the more date groves you find.

driver100

stickguy said:

Driver, if you do something #3 is best bet. Though I would likelyvwait and see if it got worse. May never need it.

I had doors where thanks to how opener was installed it started separating the inner layer off. Repair guy just put a flat piece of metal behind the bracket. Problem solved. That was many years ago.

Stick, That is about how I was thinking, good to get confirmation of my original thoughts. I think the sales guy slipped a bit because he said you could reinforce the top part of the door where the cracks are, and that got me thinking a handy man could put in some metal or wood to reinforce the cracked area.

I am kind of thinking if it ain't broke, why fix it. And, now I am paranoid after finding out those surveys are all a scam, I think this is a selling scam, where they scare you with "what could happen".

Worse case scenario....I'll need new doors eventually, but, why buy them now if I can get another few years from these doors?

imidazol97

I have a question about rocks and trucks. Some trucks here have signs about "Not responsible for damage from rocks thrown from road." Others say not responsible for windshield damage. Some say stay back 100 feet or similar distances.

Are trucks responsible for rocks or other materials in their load that drops, hits the road, and bounces up to damage a windshield? I would assume that a truck having its tire throw a stone from the road would not be any more responsible for that damage than if the stone were thrown up from an auto tire.

But when it's their load that dribbles?

thebean

driver100 said:

...Worse case scenario....I'll need new doors eventually, but, why buy them now if I can get another few years from these doors?

Driver, why not get another company out there to get another opinion?  Six years is not a lot of time for garage doors to go bad.  Kinda sounds like the owner has a boat payment due or something like that.  I use Angie's List for my home repair needs and it has given me some real good recs for good companies to use. 

Mr Bean

oldfarmer50

Why can't I post?

Twice today I was told "you don't have permission" when trying to post. Brilliant stuff too.

Is the system on the blink or did I anger some big wheel in the executive suite?

fezo

imid - as far as I know the truck owner or driver would be responsible.

I'm not a lawyer but my brother is. I remember back inn his first year of law school one of the things they taught was that signs saying you aren't responsible for something doesn't make it so. The classic example is the sign at the cleaners that say "not responsible for items left over 30 days." They are responsible. The sign mean nothing.

stever

@oldfarmer50, it never fails - the stuff that gets lost in the ether is always brilliant.

Haven't heard any other issues, although someone made a post in an old discussion this morning and it didn't go to the "top of the list".

Anyone else? (feel free to hit the Help or Contact Us link and "submit a request" when glitches like this happen).

driver100

thebean said:

driver100 said:

...Worse case scenario....I'll need new doors eventually, but, why buy them now if I can get another few years from these doors?

>Driver, why not get another company out there to get another opinion?  Six years is not a lot of time for garage doors to go bad.  Kinda sounds like the owner has a boat payment due or something like that.  I use Angie's List for my home repair needs and it has given me some real good recs for good companies to use.

 

Mr Bean

Mr Bean. I think I have even done better than that, though I will keep it in mind. I have a friend who is pretty knowledgeable about these things. He thinks there is a metal brace that has holes in it to place screws. He hasn't seen the cracks yet but he thinks it could be fixed for under $20.

I like Angies list too. When I got my dent in the trunk on the new E400 I was going to take it to the nearest garage, but they only had one star on sites. I thought for $10 a year I can get a good place from Angies List and what's $10 if you are spending $100s. I found a garage that had 10 5 stars out of 5 stars, and no bad reviews. I went there and they were excellent, did beautiful work and were honest and reasonable. Unfortunately, Angies List isn't in Canada yet. I will say, they guy who came here is a sales guy, and his goal is to sell you as much as possible. When he starts talking about how the only real solution is to buy all new doors I start running the other way.

I'd rather wait and see if it breaks and then decide what to do, but I would do this bracing first.

abacomike

Driver, if this was October/November, I'd recommend a different course for you - replace beam and get new doors, if necessary.  But this is April with the long summer still ahead of you.  Taking a wait-and-see approach is the best option IMHO.  See what happens with a bracing that is inexpensive.  As Fall approaches, a more proactive approach may be necessary.

abacomike

stever said:

@oldfarmer50, it never fails - the stuff that gets lost in the ether is always brilliant. Haven't heard any other issues, although someone made a post in an old discussion this morning and it didn't go to the "top of the list". Anyone else? (feel free to hit the Help or Contact Us link and "submit a request" when glitches like this happen).

I'm a guy that is never hesitant to ask for help - no matter what the reason is.  But when it comes to posting on Edmunds, what gets posted may not be perfect or what was intended and no help in the Universe can fix posting using an iPhone.  It's destined to belch and choke every so often.

stever

Hm, I'll see blank posts over in Edmunds Answers every week or so too. I think some of that is people's cell or wifi signal getting "lost". It looks like everything is hunky dory, but if you don't check to see if your post actually posted (especially in Answers), nothing (or a blank field) will show up.

It's enough to make you wish for one AT&T to rule us all.

(Not really, lol...)

driver100

abacomike said:

Driver, if this was October/November, I'd recommend a different course for you - replace beam and get new doors, if necessary.  But this is April with the long summer still ahead of you.  Taking a wait-and-see approach is the best option IMHO.  See what happens with a bracing that is inexpensive.  As Fall approaches, a more proactive approach may be necessary.

That's true Mike...it can wait, especially this time of year. Might as well try the bracing at least. A plumber froma fancy company told me I needed a new sink and faucets and it would cost about $450. I called a retired guy who came up in an old truck with a wooden box built on the back...he said he would patch the sink with Crazy Glue...may last 6 months or 5 years. He said he had a gasket in his truck I could have for free if it fit.

Fixed, lasted until I moved 6 years later, cost $40.

abacomike

It was a similar situation with our 25 year old refrigerator.  The compressor would run 20 minutes then it was off 10 minutes and then back on.  It had outlived its useful life.  We waited as long as we could and then it just had to be replaced.

All of us have reached that point of waiting to see and observing whether an existing condition can be tolerated.  But when the decision is carefully considered for its positives and negatives, it's just a matter of good timing.

roadburner

imidazol97 said:

I have a question about rocks and trucks. Some trucks here have signs about "Not responsible for damage from rocks thrown from road." Others say not responsible for windshield damage. Some say stay back 100 feet or similar distances.

Are trucks responsible for rocks or other materials in their load that drops, hits the road, and bounces up to damage a windshield? I would assume that a truck having its tire throw a stone from the road would not be any more responsible for that damage than if the stone were thrown up from an auto tire.

But when it's their load that dribbles?

They are responsible for an improperly secured load, theat "Not Responsible" BS is just a smokescreen...

berri

But cars that spend most of their time right on the coast of California "do" rust at times because of the higher humidity levels during the summers and raining season in December through April.

Nothing scientific, but it sure seemed to me after all of my travels that rust was more prevalent when very near to the east coast, including the southeast and the gulf coast of Texas.

berri

25 year old refrigerator. The compressor would run 20 minutes then it was off 10 minutes and then back on. It had outlived its useful life

Probably be lucky to get 7 or 8 years out that Chinese compressor in a new refrigerator. Now why would I want to buy a Volvo when they start making them in China?

berri

They are responsible for an improperly secured load, theat "Not Responsible" BS is just a smokescreen...


Yeah, they are banking on you being intimidated and backing off.

abacomike

berri said:

25 year old refrigerator. The compressor would run 20 minutes then it was off 10 minutes and then back on. It had outlived its useful life Probably be lucky to get 7 or 8 years out that Chinese compressor in a new refrigerator. Now why would I want to buy a Volvo when they start making them in China?

What makes you so sure my new refrigerator has a Chinese compressor?  What makes you say I'll be lucky to get 7-8 years out of my new refrigerator?  I looked at the metal placard on the rear and it states the compressor and filters were made in the USA.  The unit was assembled in Michigan.

abacomike

berri said:

But cars that spend most of their time right on the coast of California "do" rust at times because of the higher humidity levels during the summers and raining season in December through April. Nothing scientific, but it sure seemed to me after all of my travels that rust was more prevalent when very near to the east coast, including the southeast and the gulf coast of Texas.

I don't disagree with your unscientific dissection as to where rust is the most prevalent in the U.S. for vehicles.  All I said was most California cars and SUV's are rust-free except for those stored right on the coast.  80% of California is desert or mountainous (Sierras).  It's the immediate coastline that is the area that is the dampest.

driver100

I don't know if this guy was joking or not...he was an insurance guy. A lady asked him, if she was following a truck, and the truck was carrying a door in the back that he was delivering, and the door fell off the truck and hit the front of her car, causing $1000 damage, would her insurance cover it.

His answer went something like this, and I may have it the wrong way around.

If the door falls off the truck, flies through the air and hits your car, your compehensive insurance would cover it.
If the door falls off the truck, hits the road, bounces up, then your liability insurance would cover it.

This was a long time ago...does that sound even close.

I do know a big bolt fell off a truck...hit my windshield and shattered it. I went up to the driver when he stopped and asked him about it. He said prove it. I paid for it myself.

abacomike

Driver, liability covers injuries sustained in an auto accident to the other injured party(ies).  Collision would have covered your damages to your car in the "flying" door scenario if you could not collect for damages from the driver of the truck who was at fault.  Comprehensive covers damages to your car caused by hail or weather related losses, theft of your car, a broken windshield or side/rear windows, Or damages sustained by vandalism.

Uninsured/underinsured motorist insurance covers you for injuries and damage to your vehicle caused by a motorist who had no insurance or whose insurance was insufficient to cover sustained injuries and damages you incurred.

Property damage covers losses to property caused by you while driving a car - such as colliding with an electric pole, a fence or a house or business.

It can become complicated at times.  I was driving on an interstate when a dump truck dropped a 2" diameter stone which hit the hood of my car after bouncing once or twice.  It was paid for by by my collision coverage - taking out the dent and reprinting and refinishing my entire hood.

driver100

abacomike said:

Driver, liability covers injuries sustained in an auto accident to the other injured party(ies).  Collision would have covered your damages to your car in the "flying" door scenario if you could not collect for damages from the driver of the truck who was at fault.  Comprehensive covers damages to your car caused by hail or weather related losses, theft of your car, a broken windshield or side/rear windows, Or damages sustained by vandalism.

Uninsured/underinsured motorist insurance covers you for injuries and damage to your vehicle caused by a motorist who had no insurance or whose insurance was insufficient to cover sustained injuries and damages you incurred.

Property damage covers losses to property caused by you while driving a car - such as colliding with an electric pole, a fence or a house or business.

It can become complicated at times.  I was driving on an interstate when a dump truck dropped a 2" diameter stone which hit the hood of my car after bouncing once or twice.  It was paid for by by my collision coverage - taking out the dent and reprinting and refinishing my entire hood.

Thanks for the breakdown......very helpful.

Maybe the insurance guy was defining the difference between collision insurance (door hits the road and you collide with it) and comprehensive (door comes flying through the air like an act of God). Which reminds me, if you don't believe in God can you have comprehensive insurance?

ab348

My brother used to be an insurance agent. His answer to that question was understandable:

You hit something:
Collision pays for the damage to your vehicle, liability pays for damage to what you hit.

Something hits you:
Comprehensive pays if there is no other coverage from the source.

driver100

ab348 said:

My brother used to be an insurance agent. His answer to that question was understandable:

You hit something:
Collision pays for the damage to your vehicle, liability pays for damage to what you hit.

Something hits you:
Comprehensive pays if there is no other coverage from the source.

That seems to make sense. Maybe the insurance guy was telling a fable to explain the differences in insurance coverage.

carnaught

driver100 said:

the top of the door has a beam and because of all the tugging that is showing cracks, a guy will come out and do an estimate to get a new top beam.

*Guy gives me 3 senarios;
1.All new doors and windows. Door will break really badly one day. New doors are insulated and won't get cracks $2900.
2. Just get new top beam and top row replaced to make it stronger $1400
3. Just replace top beam. $318

Driver, I had a similar problem on older doors and the doors were not closing completely. They were not stabilized from the top, and were at risk of cracking. I had the top beam reinforced with an added beam, like option 3. This was after I got a "second opinion" who said all new doors were not needed. This seemed to solve the problem and was much less costly.

I know it's not exactly the same situation you have; your results may vary.

dino001

abacomike said:

Driver, liability covers injuries sustained in an auto accident to the other injured party(ies).  Collision would have covered your damages to your car in the "flying" door scenario if you could not collect for damages from the driver of the truck who was at fault.  Comprehensive covers damages to your car caused by hail or weather related losses, theft of your car, a broken windshield or side/rear windows, Or damages sustained by vandalism.

Uninsured/underinsured motorist insurance covers you for injuries and damage to your vehicle caused by a motorist who had no insurance or whose insurance was insufficient to cover sustained injuries and damages you incurred.

Property damage covers losses to property caused by you while driving a car - such as colliding with an electric pole, a fence or a house or business.

It can become complicated at times.  I was driving on an interstate when a dump truck dropped a 2" diameter stone which hit the hood of my car after bouncing once or twice.  It was paid for by by my collision coverage - taking out the dent and reprinting and refinishing my entire hood.

Very good summary. Are you sure uninsured motorist covers damages? I always thought it was just injuries and pain and suffering. A reverse bodily injury, if you will. As you said, collision would cover damages in case the liable party does't have sufficient coverage. BTW, compehensive will cover damages to your vehicle related to any act of nature, even if in motion. I hit a deere once, ripped the mirror, door handle and dented and scratched the side. The car wa a rental. The damage was covered by the comprehensive with deductible paid by American Express.

dino001

driver100 said:

abacomike said:

Driver, liability covers injuries sustained in an auto accident to the other injured party(ies).  Collision would have covered your damages to your car in the "flying" door scenario if you could not collect for damages from the driver of the truck who was at fault.  Comprehensive covers damages to your car caused by hail or weather related losses, theft of your car, a broken windshield or side/rear windows, Or damages sustained by vandalism.

Uninsured/underinsured motorist insurance covers you for injuries and damage to your vehicle caused by a motorist who had no insurance or whose insurance was insufficient to cover sustained injuries and damages you incurred.

Property damage covers losses to property caused by you while driving a car - such as colliding with an electric pole, a fence or a house or business.

It can become complicated at times.  I was driving on an interstate when a dump truck dropped a 2" diameter stone which hit the hood of my car after bouncing once or twice.  It was paid for by by my collision coverage - taking out the dent and reprinting and refinishing my entire hood.

Thanks for the breakdown......very helpful.

Maybe the insurance guy was defining the difference between collision insurance (door hits the road and you collide with it) and comprehensive (door comes flying through the air like an act of God). Which reminds me, if you don't believe in God can you have comprehensive insurance?

Then it's called act of nature.

graphicguy

fezo said:

"There's a lot of guys hoping the company will sell it and give employees first dibs on buying it."

They need to give the posters first dibs.....

fezo....I'm with you. I'll go halvsies with you.....

graphicguy

imidazol97 said:

I have a question about rocks and trucks. Some trucks here have signs about "Not responsible for damage from rocks thrown from road." Others say not responsible for windshield damage. Some say stay back 100 feet or similar distances.

Are trucks responsible for rocks or other materials in their load that drops, hits the road, and bounces up to damage a windshield? I would assume that a truck having its tire throw a stone from the road would not be any more responsible for that damage than if the stone were thrown up from an auto tire.

But when it's their load that dribbles?

imid....I've actually put in a claim for a cracked windshield due to a truck that was hauling a bulldozer, which was throwing dirt and rocks every bump they hit.

I had to remember the license number of the truck, and had to pull up bsdie it to see if there was something written on the door stating who the company was who operated the truck.

But, in doing all that, I called the trucking company, gave them the license plate number of the vehicle. They took my name and number to verify and call me back. They did indeed call back telling me they had a truck in that vicinity at the time I claimed. They gave me the number of their insurance carrier and a new windshield was replaced on their dime.

I guess I could put a sign on my car stating that everyone should stay 100' away from me, and that I'm not responsible for any damage I cause if I have a wreck, and that absolves me.

abacomike

dino001 said:

Driver, liability covers injuries sustained in an auto accident to the other injured party(ies).  Collision would have covered your damages to your car in the "flying" door scenario if you could not collect for damages from the driver of the truck who was at fault.  Comprehensive covers damages to your car caused by hail or weather related losses, theft of your car, a broken windshield or side/rear windows, Or damages sustained by vandalism.

Uninsured/underinsured motorist insurance covers you for injuries and damage to your vehicle caused by a motorist who had no insurance or whose insurance was insufficient to cover sustained injuries and damages you incurred.

Property damage covers losses to property caused by you while driving a car - such as colliding with an electric pole, a fence or a house or business.

It can become complicated at times.  I was driving on an interstate when a dump truck dropped a 2" diameter stone which hit the hood of my car after bouncing once or twice.  It was paid for by by my collision coverage - taking out the dent and reprinting and refinishing my entire hood.

Very good summary. Are you sure uninsured motorist covers damages? I always thought it was just injuries and pain and suffering. A reverse bodily injury, if you will. As you said, collision would cover damages in case the liable party does't have sufficient coverage. BTW, compehensive will cover damages to your vehicle related to any act of nature, even if in motion. I hit a deere once, ripped the mirror, door handle and dented and scratched the side. The car wa a rental. The damage was covered by the comprehensive with deductible paid by American Express.

Injuries.  But what I meant by damages is if you are injured and cannot work.  Those are also damages.  If the guy who hits you is underinsured or uninsured, you collect from uninsured motorist policy for personal injuries as well as loss of wages.  If you have severe injuries that are permanent, you can still sue the driver who hit you - but if he doesn't carry insurance or has low limits, chances are he has nothing much to protect if you understand my meaning.

I carry 250-500 liability, but only 100-300 uninsured motorist.  Florida requires at least 10,000 PIP to drive a vehicle.  Part of a trial no-fault law that really has been a disaster.  Your health insurance covers injuries above and beyond what you collect from the at fault driver and uninsured motorist.

Uninsured motorist is 3rd party insurance protection and pays whether you have health insurance or not.  In Florida, the first $10,000 in medical costs is paid on a no-fault basis.  After that, everything kicks in.

fezo

gg - there's a deal. I'll take it from May to October. You can have it the rest of the year!

stever

So if a shopping cart falls off a gravel truck in a parking garage and hits your hood while you are getting stung by a bee, you're covered?

graphicguy

fezo said:

gg - there's a deal. I'll take it from May to October. You can have it the rest of the year!

Gee...thanks! How can I turn that deal down....