Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

kyfdx

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

Those guys can never get the rear tires to hook up, though..

driver100

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

I took a big risk today but I think it will be OK. My E40 is 4 years old and no more warranty or prepaid maintenance. It only has 28000 miles on it, and I only went 6000 miles this year....with covid lockdowns.
The E had a complete prepaid A Service last year. The monitor said I was due for a B Service which I think costs about $500. Here is what is on a B service;
Everything on the A Service:
Function Check:
Check Tele-Aid by pressing SOS button to make test call to response center.
Horn, headlamp flasher, hazard flasher, turn signals
Warning/indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting
Exterior lighting incl. headlamps
Windshield wiper, windshield washer system
Headlamp cleaning system
Check Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) hydraulic unit
Reset FSS counter in instrument cluster


Wheels, Brakes:
Check brake pads for lining thickness front (remove right front wheel)
Check tires for damage and condition
Correct tire inflation

Engine Compartment:
Engine oil and filter change
Check and correct fluid level:
Windshield washer system
Starter battery, wet cell (located at R/H strut) Check battery acid level, replenish
Additionally, check battery using "Midtronics MCR 717" tester. Attach Midtronics MCR 717 Test Report print out here.
Clean water drain in air/water duct
Lubricate catch, safety catch and hinges on engine hood for proper operation. Replace components with even the slightest malfunction.

Front, rear of vehicle:
Check wiper blade condition


Vehicle passenger compartment
Check seat belts for damage and proper function
Replace combination filters (2)

Wheels, brakes
Remove and reinstall wheels, rotate if necessary, does not apply for vehicles with different tire sizes front/rear
Check brake pads for lining thickness front/rear
Check condition of brake discs front and rear
Measure tread depth, enter in mm

Vehicle underbody:
Visual check for leakage - major components
Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots
Check condition of steering's mechanical components and rubber boots

Engine compartment:
Visually check for leakage - major components
Check and correct fluid level:
Active Body Control (ABC)
Power steering
Check condition of poly-V-belt


Additional work:

Every 50,000 mi/80,000 km or 4 years:
Check condition of drive shaft flex discs

Every 60,000 mi/96,000 km or 4 years:
Replace air cleaner filter element

Every 60,000 mi/96,000 km or 5 years:
Replace fuel filter

Every 150,000 mi/250,000 km or 15 years:
Replace coolant

Every 2 years:
Replace brake fluid
Check body for paint damage
Check chassis and supporting body parts for damage and corrosion

Every 100,000 mi/160,000 km or 5 years:
Replace spark plugs

Since I only did half a years worth of driving and the car only has 28k miles, I did an oil change, check tires and check fluid levels. Cost $250.

I wonder how many people go by the actual service plans and how necessary is it? I don't even think the prepaid plan is worth it if you aren't doing at least average driving a year. Though, with the prepaid plan you should have no problems no matter what goes wrong - then they guaranty everything completely and that is worth something.

Headlight cleaning system? What does that involve, filling up with blinker fluid?

Several of my BMWs have had it; high pressure sprayers that work with the windshield washer system.

Heaven help me the day I can’t clean my own headlights.

It's hard to do when you are driving 80 mph.

You drive 80 mph at night through the mud? If you can’t stop to clean your headlights I’d check my brakes too.

80 mph was just an example....but your not going to get out and clean them at 50 or 60 mph either I would hope!
I guess the thinking is if your windshield can get covered with dirt or grime, so can your headlights.

driver100

GG, The Stinger prices vary a lot......but this one is selling for $44500.

4133 miles on it.
https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=575058799&allListingType=all-cars&makeCodeList=KIA&modelCodeList=KIASTING&city=Sun City Center&state=FL&zip=33573&location=&searchRadius=200&trimCodeList=KIASTING|GT2,KIASTING|Premium&marketExtension=include&startYear=2019&isNewSearch=false&showAccelerateBanner=false&sortBy=relevance&numRecords=25&dma=&referrer=/cars-for-sale/all-cars/kia/stinger/sun-city-center-fl-33573?dma=&searchRadius=200&trimCodeList=KIASTING%7CGT2%2CKIASTING%7CPremium&location=&marketExtension=include&startYear=2019&isNewSearch=false&showAccelerateBanner=false&sortBy=relevance&numRecords=25&clickType=spotlight

They have a new 2020 for $55000 so maybe a 2019 is a bargain for the low $40s.


https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/all-cars/kia/stinger/sun-city-center-fl-33573?dma=&searchRadius=200&location=&marketExtension=include&trimCodeList=KIASTING|GT2&isNewSearch=true&showAccelerateBanner=false&sortBy=relevance&numRecords=25

stickguy

I am renting a hertz cargo van in a few weeks to move my daughter to Boston, and got the extra insurance for a bargain $9/day. And got sent a policy from Alliance. I always get the extra on a rental truck because I don’t trust my policy or the CC will cover it.

I actually thought the insurance the rent a car places push was just CDW, not liability. Or maybe since I have my own insurance for liability they don’t offer it, but have something for uninsured people?

snakeweasel

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

I took a big risk today but I think it will be OK. My E40 is 4 years old and no more warranty or prepaid maintenance. It only has 28000 miles on it, and I only went 6000 miles this year....with covid lockdowns.
The E had a complete prepaid A Service last year. The monitor said I was due for a B Service which I think costs about $500. Here is what is on a B service;
Everything on the A Service:
Function Check:
Check Tele-Aid by pressing SOS button to make test call to response center.
Horn, headlamp flasher, hazard flasher, turn signals
Warning/indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting
Exterior lighting incl. headlamps
Windshield wiper, windshield washer system
Headlamp cleaning system
Check Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) hydraulic unit
Reset FSS counter in instrument cluster


Wheels, Brakes:
Check brake pads for lining thickness front (remove right front wheel)
Check tires for damage and condition
Correct tire inflation

Engine Compartment:
Engine oil and filter change
Check and correct fluid level:
Windshield washer system
Starter battery, wet cell (located at R/H strut) Check battery acid level, replenish
Additionally, check battery using "Midtronics MCR 717" tester. Attach Midtronics MCR 717 Test Report print out here.
Clean water drain in air/water duct
Lubricate catch, safety catch and hinges on engine hood for proper operation. Replace components with even the slightest malfunction.

Front, rear of vehicle:
Check wiper blade condition


Vehicle passenger compartment
Check seat belts for damage and proper function
Replace combination filters (2)

Wheels, brakes
Remove and reinstall wheels, rotate if necessary, does not apply for vehicles with different tire sizes front/rear
Check brake pads for lining thickness front/rear
Check condition of brake discs front and rear
Measure tread depth, enter in mm

Vehicle underbody:
Visual check for leakage - major components
Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots
Check condition of steering's mechanical components and rubber boots

Engine compartment:
Visually check for leakage - major components
Check and correct fluid level:
Active Body Control (ABC)
Power steering
Check condition of poly-V-belt


Additional work:

Every 50,000 mi/80,000 km or 4 years:
Check condition of drive shaft flex discs

Every 60,000 mi/96,000 km or 4 years:
Replace air cleaner filter element

Every 60,000 mi/96,000 km or 5 years:
Replace fuel filter

Every 150,000 mi/250,000 km or 15 years:
Replace coolant

Every 2 years:
Replace brake fluid
Check body for paint damage
Check chassis and supporting body parts for damage and corrosion

Every 100,000 mi/160,000 km or 5 years:
Replace spark plugs

Since I only did half a years worth of driving and the car only has 28k miles, I did an oil change, check tires and check fluid levels. Cost $250.

I wonder how many people go by the actual service plans and how necessary is it? I don't even think the prepaid plan is worth it if you aren't doing at least average driving a year. Though, with the prepaid plan you should have no problems no matter what goes wrong - then they guaranty everything completely and that is worth something.

Headlight cleaning system? What does that involve, filling up with blinker fluid?

Several of my BMWs have had it; high pressure sprayers that work with the windshield washer system.

Heaven help me the day I can’t clean my own headlights.

It's hard to do when you are driving 80 mph.

You drive 80 mph at night through the mud? If you can’t stop to clean your headlights I’d check my brakes too.

If he is driving 80MPH at night through the mud you can bet that this guy is chasing him.

snakeweasel

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

stickguy

Obviously so you can brag you have it.

ab348

stickguy said:

I am renting a hertz cargo van in a few weeks to move my daughter to Boston, and got the extra insurance for a bargain $9/day. And got sent a policy from Alliance. I always get the extra on a rental truck because I don’t trust my policy or the CC will cover it.

I actually thought the insurance the rent a car places push was just CDW, not liability. Or maybe since I have my own insurance for liability they don’t offer it, but have something for uninsured people?

This is something I have been looking into recently. All of the rental car places I have ever dealt with refer to it as CDW. I don't ever recall hearing about liability.

I was looking at the status of my various credit cards on this just yesterday. I assumed I had CDW on several of them since they are either premium cards or otherwise automotive-related. Turns out I only have it on one card. That's all I need of course but it wasn't the one I typically use on rentals, so that will now change. As I understand the liability question, if you have liability coverage on your auto policy, that also applies if you are driving a rental car. It might also apply to collision damage too but you need to have that endorsement.

sda

From Business Insider: As a result, these rental companies are likely to hold on to their existing vehicles for longer than usual. Rental vehicles with over 60,000 miles - once rare - could become typical in the coming months.

I found this comment interesting as I asked about this not too long ago. The article also touches on the current shortage of rental vehicles and daily rates as high as $700 in some places. ouch

driver100

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

roadburner said:

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

I took a big risk today but I think it will be OK. My E40 is 4 years old and no more warranty or prepaid maintenance. It only has 28000 miles on it, and I only went 6000 miles this year....with covid lockdowns.
The E had a complete prepaid A Service last year. The monitor said I was due for a B Service which I think costs about $500. Here is what is on a B service;
Everything on the A Service:
Function Check:
Check Tele-Aid by pressing SOS button to make test call to response center.
Horn, headlamp flasher, hazard flasher, turn signals
Warning/indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting
Exterior lighting incl. headlamps
Windshield wiper, windshield washer system
Headlamp cleaning system
Check Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) hydraulic unit
Reset FSS counter in instrument cluster


Wheels, Brakes:
Check brake pads for lining thickness front (remove right front wheel)
Check tires for damage and condition
Correct tire inflation

Engine Compartment:
Engine oil and filter change
Check and correct fluid level:
Windshield washer system
Starter battery, wet cell (located at R/H strut) Check battery acid level, replenish
Additionally, check battery using "Midtronics MCR 717" tester. Attach Midtronics MCR 717 Test Report print out here.
Clean water drain in air/water duct
Lubricate catch, safety catch and hinges on engine hood for proper operation. Replace components with even the slightest malfunction.

Front, rear of vehicle:
Check wiper blade condition


Vehicle passenger compartment
Check seat belts for damage and proper function
Replace combination filters (2)

Wheels, brakes
Remove and reinstall wheels, rotate if necessary, does not apply for vehicles with different tire sizes front/rear
Check brake pads for lining thickness front/rear
Check condition of brake discs front and rear
Measure tread depth, enter in mm

Vehicle underbody:
Visual check for leakage - major components
Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots
Check condition of steering's mechanical components and rubber boots

Engine compartment:
Visually check for leakage - major components
Check and correct fluid level:
Active Body Control (ABC)
Power steering
Check condition of poly-V-belt


Additional work:

Every 50,000 mi/80,000 km or 4 years:
Check condition of drive shaft flex discs

Every 60,000 mi/96,000 km or 4 years:
Replace air cleaner filter element

Every 60,000 mi/96,000 km or 5 years:
Replace fuel filter

Every 150,000 mi/250,000 km or 15 years:
Replace coolant

Every 2 years:
Replace brake fluid
Check body for paint damage
Check chassis and supporting body parts for damage and corrosion

Every 100,000 mi/160,000 km or 5 years:
Replace spark plugs

Since I only did half a years worth of driving and the car only has 28k miles, I did an oil change, check tires and check fluid levels. Cost $250.

I wonder how many people go by the actual service plans and how necessary is it? I don't even think the prepaid plan is worth it if you aren't doing at least average driving a year. Though, with the prepaid plan you should have no problems no matter what goes wrong - then they guaranty everything completely and that is worth something.

Headlight cleaning system? What does that involve, filling up with blinker fluid?

Several of my BMWs have had it; high pressure sprayers that work with the windshield washer system.

Heaven help me the day I can’t clean my own headlights.

It's hard to do when you are driving 80 mph.

You drive 80 mph at night through the mud? If you can’t stop to clean your headlights I’d check my brakes too.

If he is driving 80MPH at night through the mud you can bet that this guy is chasing him.

If that guy was chasing me I would be driving 90 m.p.h.

driver100

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

oldfarmer50

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

To shore up your manhood I would assume.

Personally, just like I might buy a car that isn’t popular with the “cool kids” I buy a fast car because I like to go fast, not to impress the guy in the next lane.

oldfarmer50

sda said:

From Business Insider: As a result, these rental companies are likely to hold on to their existing vehicles for longer than usual. Rental vehicles with over 60,000 miles - once rare - could become typical in the coming months.

I found this comment interesting as I asked about this not too long ago. The article also touches on the current shortage of rental vehicles and daily rates as high as $700 in some places. ouch

My company is keeping them up to 50k miles. Our holding lots are as empty as I’ve ever seen them. We got a few truck loads of pick ups in and we spent all day delivering them to offices. They barely touch the ground these days before we send them out.

Almost all deliveries to dealers have stopped.

roadburner

stickguy said:

Obviously so you can brag you have it.

Or, like me, you actually use it. I’ll admit I don’t need a lot of horsepower; in even my slowest car I can’t think of a situation where I wished it had more power- Stoplight Grand Prix excepted.

explorerx4

Had a little fun doing some Adams shopping.

venture

oldfarmer50 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

To shore up your manhood I would assume.

Personally, just like I might buy a car that isn’t popular with the “cool kids” I buy a fast car because I like to go fast, not to impress the guy in the next lane.

When I had my Corvettes I discovered I was in a race a few times when I heard all this noise and looked over and saw some guy banging gears trying to keep up with me.

roadburner

venture said:

oldfarmer50 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

To shore up your manhood I would assume.

Personally, just like I might buy a car that isn’t popular with the “cool kids” I buy a fast car because I like to go fast, not to impress the guy in the next lane.

When I had my Corvettes I discovered I was in a race a few times when I heard all this noise and looked over and saw some guy banging gears trying to keep up with me.

The Ricer/tuner guys always wanted to race my MS3. One day a Civic was wanting to race and he shifted from 3rd to 2nd- almost hit his head on the windshield. My son laughed and laughed.

abacomike

venture said:

oldfarmer50 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

To shore up your manhood I would assume.

Personally, just like I might buy a car that isn’t popular with the “cool kids” I buy a fast car because I like to go fast, not to impress the guy in the next lane.

When I had my Corvettes I discovered I was in a race a few times when I heard all this noise and looked over and saw some guy banging gears trying to keep up with me.

It’s the old speedster’s adage - “how much power is enough power?” Like Tim Allen used to say on his “tool man” show, “MORE POWER!”

300 hp used to be a powerful number of horses. Then 350 hp, and 375 hp, and now you can buy a Dodge with almost 700 hp not to mention the new Corvette with over 500 hp. That’s more power than you will ever need no matter where you live.

My last 3 cars each had a V6 twin turbo engine with 365 hp, and I am including my new G90. I’ve got more than enough power to get onto the interstate or the turnpike leaving those behind me in the dust. I wouldn’t want any more power than that.

But I remember how much fun I had when I was 23 years old when I had a brand new 1967 Corvette Stingray fastback coupe with a Muncie 4 speed stick and 435 hp. No one ever beat me off the line or got to the flag before me. Those were great times and continue to provide me with some great memories. 🤪😜🤓

imidazol97

Wheel of Fortune:

Watched a college guy win the puzzle at the end of the show and the prize for that ranged from $38000 to $100000 or a car.

He won a Mini Cooper SE electric vehicle. He was almost too tall to sit in the passenger seat. But he sure was happy. Oh to be young again.

fintail

When I had AMGs, it was always Hondas, Subarus, and Audis. I seldom could be bothered to play. Funny thing, the wagon is faster, on paper anyway, than either old school AMG car, and nobody gives it a second look - I am not complaining.

roadburner said:

The Ricer/tuner guys always wanted to race my MS3. One day a Civic was wanting to race and he shifted from 3rd to 2nd- almost hit his head on the windshield. My son laughed and laughed.

snakeweasel

stickguy said:

Obviously so you can brag you have it.

My response to that would get me in trouble with the moderators.

tjc78

fintail said:

When I had AMGs, it was always Hondas, Subarus, and Audis. I seldom could be bothered to play. Funny thing, the wagon is faster, on paper anyway, than either old school AMG car, and nobody gives it a second look - I am not complaining.

roadburner said:

The Ricer/tuner guys always wanted to race my MS3. One day a Civic was wanting to race and he shifted from 3rd to 2nd- almost hit his head on the windshield. My son laughed and laughed.

My 06 Avalon was pretty quick for its time (6 sec to 60). I used to surprise a lot of people with it.

venture

qbrozen

venture said:

Good joke ruined by poor punctuation. Sigh.

explorerx4

@venture,
Found that on a beach near you?

driver100

snakeweasel said:

stickguy said:

Obviously so you can brag you have it.

My response to that would get me in trouble with the moderators.

I was thinking the same but of course I am much too polite to even hint about it!

bwia

Coming this fall, the 2022 Mercedes Benz EQS.

The EQS comes in two versions. The EQS450+ ($96,000) is rear-wheel drive and makes 329 horsepower, and the EQS580 4Matic ($116,000) is dual-motor all-wheel drive, with 516 horsepower.
Both models offer adaptive air suspension and four-wheel steering as well as Mercedes's full driver-assistance package...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBQFbiO1IgE

oldfarmer50

venture said:

That’s funny!

snakeweasel

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

tjc78

oldfarmer50 said:

venture said:

That’s funny!

I get two or three a day of those on my work cell.

roadburner

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Novices in high powered cars are the hardest students to instruct because they think that they are the next Senna since they can pass everyone on the straights. Horsepower can cover up a multitude of sins; it's harder for a student to "get it" when his first HPDE car has a lot of power and grip. As I've mentioned before, my Club Sport actually made me a better driver as it didn't have enough horsepower to cover up mistakes such as over-braking or just flat blowing a corner.

I once had a female B student who-driving a mildly modified E46 325i-lapped an E46 M3, E92 M3, EVO VIII, and 993 in her run group. More than once. Talk about a humbling experience!

driver100

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

graphicguy

jmonroe1 said:

graphicguy said:

stickguy said:

The 2.3 is objectively fast even by today’s standards. And will outdrag just about any muscle car from the glory days. Also more power than I’d likely ever use.

I think it’s more imagine driven. And the V8 does sound better.

In my humble estimation, you should not be allowed to buy either the Mustang or the Camaro with anything less than a V8. Should be the 11th commandment.

I agree. That’s keeping with my philosophy that if a car is offered with a larger engine, that’s the one to get.

Back in 1968 I changed my mind about buying an Olds Delta 88 2 door hardtop with the 350 engine and bought the Delta 88 Custom 2 door hardtop with the 455 engine, was never sorry I did that.

So, what peaks your interest now that the Stinger is gone?

jmonroe

Good question. I’ve sort of outlined my test drives over at the CCBA boards. Been test driving all week, and actually having quite a bit of fun.

Test drives so far...
-Volvo XC40
-BMW 330i/340i
-Toyota Supra
-Ford Bronco Sport
-Tesla Model 3 and Model Y

Going back to the BMW store today for a 2nd test drive and barring a deal there, will head over to the Acura store.

Got my personal deal/spread sheets all prepared.

Have been using the GF’s car all week, which she’s getting a little anxious about, which I understand. I’m taking her back and forth to work and have had her car available when she lets me know she needs it. But, it’s not there for her whenever she wants, which I totally understand.

Bottom line, I have to make up my mind soon in order to keep peace and tranquility in the GG relationship dept.

graphicguy

@driver100 ....thanks for the links to the ads. I was mentally prepared to take a bath on the Stinger if/when I sold it. To get the amount of money I got OVER what I bought it for really shocked me. So, couple of observations....first, the Stinger didn’t drop in resale as much as I thought. But 2nd, I now realize what a deal I got on it, which was amazing looking back on it.

I just wonder if the dealer made a mistake, or if there was that much trunk money on it when I bought it a year and a half ago. If not, and someone made a deal they shouldn’t have made with me, they’re no longer employed at the KIA store (which may be true, as no one who was there when I bought my KIA is still around).

graphicguy

@fintail ...thanks! The Stinger had a sticker of `$54K. I do not think there was another factory option you could get on it. I paid $37K and change. I don’t think I could ever top a deal like that, again. As mentioned, I’m not sure that they didn’t make a mistake. But previously, I balked at $38K on it. So, who knows?

As our many times absent @isellhondas related, he had a customer who didn’t bite on a vehicle where there was pricing mistake, only to come back later to get the deal, and the deal was no longer available.

Again, this was the last day of the sales year, on a car that hadn’t been selling well, in weather that was poor, about 90 minutes before they were going to close, and I was the only customer in the store. Just a confluence of events which I doubt I’d ever be able to pull off again.

abacomike

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

stickguy said:

Obviously so you can brag you have it.

My response to that would get me in trouble with the moderators.

I was thinking the same but of course I am much too polite to even hint about it!

Driver100, I have never known you to "hint" at anything - you just let it all hang out in your concise posts! I'll give myself an "lol" on this one - lol!

driver100

GG Happy hunting...it must be nice to have the trade-in cash in your pocket and you are a free turkey (just a phrase...I don't mean really) to buy whatever you like.

You got the 2019 for a good price and it could be for any of the reasons you gave. I once got a great lease on a Camaro because the person in the office miscalculated, at the end of the lease they asked me to voluntarily pay the difference......I don't think so, I don't think they would have reimbursed me if the mistake was in their favor.

They may have sold at low prices to help get sales rolling.........I don't think we will ever know. But, take the money and run, it's like a bonus, and choose wisely going forward and have fun.

abacomike

graphicguy said:

@driver100 ....thanks for the links to the ads. I was mentally prepared to take a bath on the Stinger if/when I sold it. To get the amount of money I got OVER what I bought it for really shocked me. So, couple of observations....first, the Stinger didn’t drop in resale as much as I thought. But 2nd, I now realize what a deal I got on it, which was amazing looking back on it.

I just wonder if the dealer made a mistake, or if there was that much trunk money on it when I bought it a year and a half ago. If not, and someone made a deal they shouldn’t have made with me, they’re no longer employed at the KIA store (which may be true, as no one who was there when I bought my KIA is still around).

GG, I had the exact same experience with the Genesis G90. It was the last weekend of March and one of my friends said he was interested in getting a G90 because of the pricing as well as the styling. So, on Sunday, March 28th, we drove over to take a look at the car and test drive it. We were both very impressed with just about everything about the car. When the salesman asked me if I had a trade, I told him I have a 2020 MB E450 4MATIC with 5,000 miles on the odometer. He took my key and about 20 minutes later, the sales manager came out - I recognized him immediately because I trained him when I worked at the Lexus dealership back in 2001. Also he worked with me at the Infinity dealership.

He brought out the dealer invoice and the auction results on cars like mine, which there were extremely few. He told me he would sell me the car for invoice, + fees and taxes, and give me $54,000 for my E450. I told him that my trade was worth more, but he insisted that was the best he could do. So my friend and I went home. When I got the call the following day, I was told my trade would be $55,000. I said $56,000. He said - do we have a deal at $56,000 for the trade and invoice for the G90 - I said yes, which only proves my approach to buying and trading cars at dealerships - you have the power and the right to walk out of the dealership. So the ball is now in the dealerships court. Remember, my friend came with me on Monday, March 29th, and purchased a G90 for himself for the same price I paid for mine. So he sold 2 cars that last weekend of March.

I know they wholesaled the E450 up near Orlando and a dealership in Pinellas Park, FL, bought it and put it on their lot - my Mercedes Me Connect App still shows me where the car is on the map and I followed it for the past 2 weeks. If this was two years ago, my E450 wouldn't be worth anything near what I was given for my car - probably around $50,000, or $13,000 less than I paid for it before taxes and fees. But in today's market, and the fact that there are very few new E450's around which are not being discounted heavily, after 11 months of ownership, I got $56,000 which is $7,000 less than I paid for it - that has never happened in the many years I have been buying cars. That is the sole reason I bought the new G90 - I got a car that fits me better, rides better, and for a price I couldn't refuse. My friend loves his car as well.

jmonroe1

bwia said:

Coming this fall, the 2022 Mercedes Benz EQS.

The EQS comes in two versions. The EQS450+ ($96,000) is rear-wheel drive and makes 329 horsepower, and the EQS580 4Matic ($116,000) is dual-motor all-wheel drive, with 516 horsepower.
Both models offer adaptive air suspension and four-wheel steering as well as Mercedes's full driver-assistance package...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBQFbiO1IgE

“ You’re a little bit late on that one Charlie” (from the song “Please Mr. Custer”, for those who remember that song).

jmonroe

jmonroe1

oldfarmer50 said:

venture said:

That’s funny!

Yes, very. Just hope those people don’t see that. That would be enough to cancel all further beach vacations.

jmonroe

graphicguy

@abacomike.....just goes to show, at least in here, we have some veteran car buyers and sellers. In your case, you’ve been both. So, you’re even more knowledgeable.

I’ve always believed that you shouldn’t go into the dealership not knowing what you’re going to pay for a vehicle. If you’re doing the grind at a dealership, and are there hours upon hours on end, you’re not necessarily getting the best deal you think you are, just because you spent an inordinate amount of time trying to do a deal. If it takes that long, I wouldn’t feel good about my deal, and know the dealers do this for a living. So, why not offer your best up front, all fees, all taxes, all in. It’s either a “yes or no” proposition. You know what you’re paying before walking in the door, and you save you (and the dealer) time and effort. Everybody comes away happy.

With the Stinger, I knew their offer was quite strong. I took it and ran with it. In the end, I see I was correct in my assessment.

fintail

This is probably the perfect storm for those with nice late model cars that were originally purchased for a good price, or cars that were always in demand anyway. If trends continue, the residual on my wagon might actually be less than market value - something I've never experienced before, as MB inflates residuals to subsidize payments (on my prior car, dealer offered a buyout of 6K under residual, before any negotiation). But with this new reality, depreciation on some models isn't what it used to be. The only real problem is one is then put back in a market where deals and supply aren't what they used to be. I've read stories on MB forums about a lack of supply of some models, indefinite waits for special orders, and the worst, special order cars arriving without ordered options due to supply issues.

In a way, it's kind of like the psychotic housing market in some areas - you'll get more than you ever imagined, but the replacement might not be so easy. But at least car hoarding isn't as much of a problem as house hoarding (locally anyway).

abacomike said:

graphicguy said:

@driver100 ....thanks for the links to the ads. I was mentally prepared to take a bath on the Stinger if/when I sold it. To get the amount of money I got OVER what I bought it for really shocked me. So, couple of observations....first, the Stinger didn’t drop in resale as much as I thought. But 2nd, I now realize what a deal I got on it, which was amazing looking back on it.

I just wonder if the dealer made a mistake, or if there was that much trunk money on it when I bought it a year and a half ago. If not, and someone made a deal they shouldn’t have made with me, they’re no longer employed at the KIA store (which may be true, as no one who was there when I bought my KIA is still around).

GG, I had the exact same experience with the Genesis G90. It was the last weekend of March and one of my friends said he was interested in getting a G90 because of the pricing as well as the styling. So, on Sunday, March 28th, we drove over to take a look at the car and test drive it. We were both very impressed with just about everything about the car. When the salesman asked me if I had a trade, I told him I have a 2020 MB E450 4MATIC with 5,000 miles on the odometer. He took my key and about 20 minutes later, the sales manager came out - I recognized him immediately because I trained him when I worked at the Lexus dealership back in 2001. Also he worked with me at the Infinity dealership.

He brought out the dealer invoice and the auction results on cars like mine, which there were extremely few. He told me he would sell me the car for invoice, + fees and taxes, and give me $54,000 for my E450. I told him that my trade was worth more, but he insisted that was the best he could do. So my friend and I went home. When I got the call the following day, I was told my trade would be $55,000. I said $56,000. He said - do we have a deal at $56,000 for the trade and invoice for the G90 - I said yes, which only proves my approach to buying and trading cars at dealerships - you have the power and the right to walk out of the dealership. So the ball is now in the dealerships court. Remember, my friend came with me on Monday, March 29th, and purchased a G90 for himself for the same price I paid for mine. So he sold 2 cars that last weekend of March.

I know they wholesaled the E450 up near Orlando and a dealership in Pinellas Park, FL, bought it and put it on their lot - my Mercedes Me Connect App still shows me where the car is on the map and I followed it for the past 2 weeks. If this was two years ago, my E450 wouldn't be worth anything near what I was given for my car - probably around $50,000, or $13,000 less than I paid for it before taxes and fees. But in today's market, and the fact that there are very few new E450's around which are not being discounted heavily, after 11 months of ownership, I got $56,000 which is $7,000 less than I paid for it - that has never happened in the many years I have been buying cars. That is the sole reason I bought the new G90 - I got a car that fits me better, rides better, and for a price I couldn't refuse. My friend loves his car as well.

driver100

@abacomike & @graphicguy What stands out to me is you both bought at the end of the month, you both bought cars that aren't big sellers, you both didn't go in looking to actually buy at the time. My guess is that Hyundai and KIA dealers have ambitious quotas to meet..........your cars were ones that they could move to either make quota or make a place for more of those models coming in next month. In other words, they weren't profitable sales, they were sales made to move some metal. If you go to a dealer and want a particular model, they have a much bigger chance of stacking the deck in their favor.

I like the idea of knowing prices before you walk in......if you spend hours negotiating they will wear you down to the point where you just want to sign and go....it also uses up valuable time and energy when you could be looking around.

sda

I’m the OCD car person in our family and who has the better handling most powerful car, my daughter driving the TL. The wife’s Q5 is next with the Passat bring up the rear. I enjoy driving each and appreciate their differences.

sda

On a car that requires RUG, would there be any benefit in using ethanol free gas, which I use exclusively in the mower? Ethanol free is 87 octane like RUG w/10% ethanol but is priced like PUG.

oldfarmer50

graphicguy said:

@fintail ...thanks! The Stinger had a sticker of `$54K. I do not think there was another factory option you could get on it. I paid $37K and change. I don’t think I could ever top a deal like that, again. As mentioned, I’m not sure that they didn’t make a mistake. But previously, I balked at $38K on it. So, who knows?

As our many times absent @isellhondas related, he had a customer who didn’t bite on a vehicle where there was pricing mistake, only to come back later to get the deal, and the deal was no longer available.

Again, this was the last day of the sales year, on a car that hadn’t been selling well, in weather that was poor, about 90 minutes before they were going to close, and I was the only customer in the store. Just a confluence of events which I doubt I’d ever be able to pull off again.

My buddy got a great deal on a used Mustang on New Year’s Eve 2 hours before closing so timing is everything.

roadburner

oldfarmer50 said:

graphicguy said:

@fintail ...thanks! The Stinger had a sticker of `$54K. I do not think there was another factory option you could get on it. I paid $37K and change. I don’t think I could ever top a deal like that, again. As mentioned, I’m not sure that they didn’t make a mistake. But previously, I balked at $38K on it. So, who knows?

As our many times absent @isellhondas related, he had a customer who didn’t bite on a vehicle where there was pricing mistake, only to come back later to get the deal, and the deal was no longer available.

Again, this was the last day of the sales year, on a car that hadn’t been selling well, in weather that was poor, about 90 minutes before they were going to close, and I was the only customer in the store. Just a confluence of events which I doubt I’d ever be able to pull off again.

My buddy got a great deal on a used Mustang on New Year’s Eve 2 hours before closing so timing is everything.

There are sorts of sales targets/bonuses/spiffs depending on the brand and the time of the month/year. I believe Toyota sets quarterly sales goals; the sales guy at Toyota really wants to sell me a Supra. He doesn’t continually text me, but he checks in every couple of weeks. Honestly, I think I would pull the trigger if I could get a deal like breld scored, but right now $49k is as low as they will go.

driver100

sda said:

I’m the OCD car person in our family and who has the better handling most powerful car, my daughter driving the TL. The wife’s Q5 is next with the Passat bring up the rear. I enjoy driving each and appreciate their differences.

The TL is faster than the Passat?

sda

driver100 said:

sda said:

I’m the OCD car person in our family and who has the better handling most powerful car, my daughter driving the TL. The wife’s Q5 is next with the Passat bring up the rear. I enjoy driving each and appreciate their differences.

The TL is faster than the Passat?

The TL is a V6, 0-60 in less than 7 sec, the Passat 8.5 or so. The Passat is quick enough for everyday driving. The 30mpg on RUG that it is averaging is a big plus. The TL, 19 on PUG.

snakeweasel

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.