Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

snakeweasel

sda said:

On a car that requires RUG, would there be any benefit in using ethanol free gas, which I use exclusively in the mower? Ethanol free is 87 octane like RUG w/10% ethanol but is priced like PUG.

The main benefit of ethanol free gas is that gas has more energy per volume than ethanol has so you should get better gas mileage with it. With E10 gas you should see a 3 to 5% drop in mileage. Will the higher mileage negate the higher cost? You will have to find out for yourself,

ronsteve

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

Just an auto tranny that can think on its feet... or if you're driving stick, you need to be in the right gear. Torque is what will cover those sins.

tjc78

driver100 said:

@abacomike & @graphicguy What stands out to me is you both bought at the end of the month, you both bought cars that aren't big sellers, you both didn't go in looking to actually buy at the time. My guess is that Hyundai and KIA dealers have ambitious quotas to meet..........your cars were ones that they could move to either make quota or make a place for more of those models coming in next month. In other words, they weren't profitable sales, they were sales made to move some metal. If you go to a dealer and want a particular model, they have a much bigger chance of stacking the deck in their favor.

I like the idea of knowing prices before you walk in......if you spend hours negotiating they will wear you down to the point where you just want to sign and go....it also uses up valuable time and energy when you could be looking around.

I’m sure I’ve told this before (I sound like @jmonroe ), but it’s fitting to this conversation.

When the Highlander first came out, my Stepdad had to have one. He shopped and shopped looking the perfect 4cyl beige over beige unit. He grinded the local dealer until they were all in, but he still didn’t pull the trigger. I don’t remember the details of the deal but it was probably 40 a month less than anywhere else.

So he sits on it for a days and decides to go up to the dealer one night after dinner to do the deal. What happened? Well of course they sold it. There were no other units equipped like that anywhere close. The GM came to the salesperson’s desk and said I’m going to make you a deal right now and it’s only valid one time. I have a beige over beige V6 in the back. I’ll give it to you for the same price as the 4cyl if you sign right now.

Of course he did it. It indeed was the last day of the month and they needed one more unit to hit the next tier of bonus. They told him straight out after the paperwork was signed.

kyfdx

sda said:

On a car that requires RUG, would there be any benefit in using ethanol free gas, which I use exclusively in the mower? Ethanol free is 87 octane like RUG w/10% ethanol but is priced like PUG.

You certainly couldn't make up for the difference in price, with greater fuel efficiency. An argument could be made that it would be better for the fuel system in the long run, but cars are all engineered to run on 10% ethanol, so those gains could be ephemeral, as well.

roadburner

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

My Club Sport only has 150 hp and I have never been in a situation where I needed more power. Since the M42 doesn’t make significant power below 4000 rpm you have to ensure that you are in the proper gear- but if you do that the car has more than enough acceleration for anything you might encounter on the street.
I take the view that at least 90% of the time if you need to floor the accelerator or hammer the brakes on the street the reason is because you weren’t paying attention and or anticipating what other drivers might do.

imidazol97

There are a few stations around me like BP and Casey's that sell 100% gasoline. IIRC Casey's has a higher octance than the 97 regular. Their pumps were confusing when I went to use it. Their webpage says they have 87 and 91 octane 100%. The area BP had theirs labelled for recreational vehicles?


I believed the Cobalt ran better on the 100% fuel, but the octane difference may have helped. It reacted
better while driving.

In the Cruze I've been using midgrade because a GM knowledgeable person told me GM was recommending midgrade instead of regular for turbo models. The Cruze likes midgrade.

I'll have to try a couple of fill ups with 100% gasoline.

kyfdx

imidazol97 said:

There are a few stations around me like BP and Casey's that sell 100% gasoline. IIRC Casey's has a higher octance than the 97 regular. Their pumps were confusing when I went to use it. Their webpage says they have 87 and 91 octane 100%. The area BP had theirs labelled for recreational vehicles?


I believed the Cobalt ran better on the 100% fuel, but the octane difference may have helped. It reacted
better while driving.

In the Cruze I've been using midgrade because a GM knowledgeable person told me GM was recommending that for turbo models. The Cruze likes midgrade.

I'll have to try a couple of fill ups with 100% gasoline.

Only station in the Cincinnati area is out in St Leon, IN. I filled up on 100% gas a couple of times, but they only had regular at 90 octane, and technically, my car required 91. Given that it's 40 minutes from my house, I didn't pursue it.

roadburner

ronsteve said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

Just an auto tranny that can think on its feet... or if you're driving stick, you need to be in the right gear. Torque is what will cover those sins.

If I put the 2er and its 8HP in Sport mode the transmission shifts exactly the way I would 99% of the time- including when it’s on the track. It tends to spoil you.

abacomike

kyfdx said:

sda said:

On a car that requires RUG, would there be any benefit in using ethanol free gas, which I use exclusively in the mower? Ethanol free is 87 octane like RUG w/10% ethanol but is priced like PUG.

You certainly couldn't make up for the difference in price, with greater fuel efficiency. An argument could be made that it would be better for the fuel system in the long run, but cars are all engineered to run on 10% ethanol, so those gains could be ephemeral, as well.

Ephemeral? kyfdx, are you just showing off your mastery of the English language or are you working with a high school junior in preparation for his/her taking the verbal portion of the SAT’s?

I am impressed, kyfdx, really and sincerely impressed. Who ever said that Edmunds’s moderators are not fluent in the higher echelons of our vernacular? Must have been driver100 who is probably looking up the definition of ephemeral as I post this Kudos expression of my awe. 🤪😜

sda

kyfdx said:

sda said:

On a car that requires RUG, would there be any benefit in using ethanol free gas, which I use exclusively in the mower? Ethanol free is 87 octane like RUG w/10% ethanol but is priced like PUG.

You certainly couldn't make up for the difference in price, with greater fuel efficiency. An argument could be made that it would be better for the fuel system in the long run, but cars are all engineered to run on 10% ethanol, so those gains could be ephemeral, as well.

That’s pretty much what I was thinking as I filled up the gas can for the mower.

driver100

sda said:

driver100 said:

sda said:

I’m the OCD car person in our family and who has the better handling most powerful car, my daughter driving the TL. The wife’s Q5 is next with the Passat bring up the rear. I enjoy driving each and appreciate their differences.

The TL is faster than the Passat?

The TL is a V6, 0-60 in less than 7 sec, the Passat 8.5 or so. The Passat is quick enough for everyday driving. The 30mpg on RUG that it is averaging is a big plus. The TL, 19 on PUG.

Our 2013 Passat seemed to be very underpowered and I see it goes 0 to 60 in about 8 seconds. I would have guessed 10 to 12 seconds.
I thought the turbo in the 2018 model would be an improvement. These are numbers I came up with;
GT Sedan FWD 6A 5.9 sec Car and Driver
GT Sedan FWD 6A 5.8 sec Motor Trend
TSI R-Line Sedan FWD 6A 8.4 sec Motor Trend
TSI SE Sedan FWD 6A 8.1 sec Car and Driver
https://www.0-60specs.com/volkswagen/

abacomike

I’ve noticed a few (very few) gas stations advertising that they sell ethanol-free 100% gasoline. The pricing is significantly higher than gas stations selling 10% ethanol fuel. I would assume fuel economy would improve a bit, but as kyfdx mentioned, probably not enough improvement to justify the higher pricing.

driver100

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

I guaranty I wouldn't have been able to do it in the 2013 Passat, or any of my previous cars. None of them took off like this one. And that was just one example.....I use the extra horses defensively about twice a week, sometimes to get on the highway before the big transport truck is beside me, or to stay ahead of a big pack of cars, and it gives the cars behind me more time to plan their entrance.
Horses for Safety....that's my motto!

stickguy

don't get too hung up on what magazines publish, especially car and driver. They do everything possible to get the best time. Drag race starts (brake torquing, launch control, high RPM clutch dumps, wheel spin, etc.) And I think correct to ideal conditions(fudge the math). Basically stuff you would never do in normal street driving.

The most realistic test is probably Consumers reports. They drive like normal. Foot on brake, car at idle, then punch it.

Especially in a turbo car, the rolling start (5-60) test it more relevant to most people. It takes the abusive launch stuff, and getting traction (mostly) out of the equation. I have seen some interesting comparisons (I think in C&D actually) where they compared 0-60 and5-60. Some cars that test quick 0-60 stink at 5-60. I think they compared a WRX and an Odyssey. In the rolling start test, the odyssey smoked it.

so you want a car that is responsive in the mid-range from lower RPM most likely, and 0-60 probably is not really telling you that.

driver100

tjc78 said:

driver100 said:

@abacomike & @graphicguy What stands out to me is you both bought at the end of the month, you both bought cars that aren't big sellers, you both didn't go in looking to actually buy at the time. My guess is that Hyundai and KIA dealers have ambitious quotas to meet..........your cars were ones that they could move to either make quota or make a place for more of those models coming in next month. In other words, they weren't profitable sales, they were sales made to move some metal. If you go to a dealer and want a particular model, they have a much bigger chance of stacking the deck in their favor.

I like the idea of knowing prices before you walk in......if you spend hours negotiating they will wear you down to the point where you just want to sign and go....it also uses up valuable time and energy when you could be looking around.

Of course he did it. It indeed was the last day of the month and they needed one more unit to hit the next tier of bonus. They told him straight out after the paperwork was signed.

Good story and example tjc and I don't know how dealers incentive programs work but I was a salesperson whose customers could make extra bonus's, and that extra 1 or 2% can make a huge difference...as it is clear profit.

This was an example which I think is possible. If a dealer reaches a quota of say $5 million in sales in a quota they earn 1%. If they are just shy of that it would mean an extra $50000 if my math is right. So selling a car at cost or even taking a $1000 or $2000 loss could be worth it, on the last day of the month!

driver100

roadburner said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

My Club Sport only has 150 hp and I have never been in a situation where I needed more power. Since the M42 doesn’t make significant power below 4000 rpm you have to ensure that you are in the proper gear- but if you do that the car has more than enough acceleration for anything you might encounter on the street.
I take the view that at least 90% of the time if you need to floor the accelerator or hammer the brakes on the street the reason is because you weren’t paying attention and or anticipating what other drivers might do.

How about when entering a highway when there is a string of transport trucks next to you and a guy on your rear bumper?

driver100

abacomike said:

kyfdx said:

sda said:

On a car that requires RUG, would there be any benefit in using ethanol free gas, which I use exclusively in the mower? Ethanol free is 87 octane like RUG w/10% ethanol but is priced like PUG.

You certainly couldn't make up for the difference in price, with greater fuel efficiency. An argument could be made that it would be better for the fuel system in the long run, but cars are all engineered to run on 10% ethanol, so those gains could be ephemeral, as well.

Ephemeral? kyfdx, are you just showing off your mastery of the English language or are you working with a high school junior in preparation for his/her taking the verbal portion of the SAT’s?

I am impressed, kyfdx, really and sincerely impressed. Who ever said that Edmunds’s moderators are not fluent in the higher echelons of our vernacular? Must have been driver100 who is probably looking up the definition of ephemeral as I post this Kudos expression of my awe. 🤪😜

Yes, I must admit I was impressed too, and looked it up. Now I have to check on "vernacular".
You guys are quite the linguists.
ephemeral
adjective
lasting for a very short time.
"fashions are ephemeral"

abacomike

driver100 said:

abacomike said:

kyfdx said:

sda said:

On a car that requires RUG, would there be any benefit in using ethanol free gas, which I use exclusively in the mower? Ethanol free is 87 octane like RUG w/10% ethanol but is priced like PUG.

You certainly couldn't make up for the difference in price, with greater fuel efficiency. An argument could be made that it would be better for the fuel system in the long run, but cars are all engineered to run on 10% ethanol, so those gains could be ephemeral, as well.

Ephemeral? kyfdx, are you just showing off your mastery of the English language or are you working with a high school junior in preparation for his/her taking the verbal portion of the SAT’s?

I am impressed, kyfdx, really and sincerely impressed. Who ever said that Edmunds’s moderators are not fluent in the higher echelons of our vernacular? Must have been driver100 who is probably looking up the definition of ephemeral as I post this Kudos expression of my awe. 🤪😜

Yes, I must admit I was impressed too, and looked it up. Now I have to check on "vernacular".
You guys are quite the linguists.
ephemeral
adjective
lasting for a very short time.
"fashions are ephemeral"

When you’ve submitted a thesis paper for a Master’s Degree and a Dissertation for a doctoral degree, you learn the written, expressive language pretty darn quick - or disaster ensues! 🤪😜🤓

abacomike

I take the G90 in for diagnostics and problem solving with the Hyundai engineering team and my local dealership’s service manager tomorrow morning. They told me they received an overnight air shipment of a new module and a separate modem, depending on what their investigative efforts uncover as the culprit preventing connectivity between the car and the Verizon cell towers.

I would think they would just go ahead and replace the parts and then send the retrieved parts from my car to California and then South Korea for further diagnostic investigation in order to save time and labor. But I am thinking logically and in most situations they don’t!

roadburner

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

My Club Sport only has 150 hp and I have never been in a situation where I needed more power. Since the M42 doesn’t make significant power below 4000 rpm you have to ensure that you are in the proper gear- but if you do that the car has more than enough acceleration for anything you might encounter on the street.
I take the view that at least 90% of the time if you need to floor the accelerator or hammer the brakes on the street the reason is because you weren’t paying attention and or anticipating what other drivers might do.

How about when entering a highway when there is a string of transport trucks next to you and a guy on your rear bumper?

As I said, I’ve never had a problem.

driver100

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

My Club Sport only has 150 hp and I have never been in a situation where I needed more power. Since the M42 doesn’t make significant power below 4000 rpm you have to ensure that you are in the proper gear- but if you do that the car has more than enough acceleration for anything you might encounter on the street.
I take the view that at least 90% of the time if you need to floor the accelerator or hammer the brakes on the street the reason is because you weren’t paying attention and or anticipating what other drivers might do.

How about when entering a highway when there is a string of transport trucks next to you and a guy on your rear bumper?

As I said, I’ve never had a problem.

Glad to hear it......we learn to use what we got. I didn't have a problem in the slow as molasses Passat, but it makes life easier having the extra horses.

driver100

abacomike said:

I take the G90 in for diagnostics and problem solving with the Hyundai engineering team and my local dealership’s service manager tomorrow morning. They told me they received an overnight air shipment of a new module and a separate modem, depending on what their investigative efforts uncover as the culprit preventing connectivity between the car and the Verizon cell towers.

I would think they would just go ahead and replace the parts and then send the retrieved parts from my car to California and then South Korea for further diagnostic investigation in order to save time and labor. But I am thinking logically and in most situations they don’t!

It sounds like they are really trying to please....that's a good sign.

snakeweasel

roadburner said:

ronsteve said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

Just an auto tranny that can think on its feet... or if you're driving stick, you need to be in the right gear. Torque is what will cover those sins.

If I put the 2er and its 8HP in Sport mode the transmission shifts exactly the way I would 99% of the time- including when it’s on the track. It tends to spoil you.

On the bike I feel the same way, in sport mode it shifts very close to where I would. My only issue is that in sport mode I would usually be one gear higher at crusing speeds. As an example I have to hit 60 MPH for it to shift into 6th in sport mode.

oldfarmer50

Anybody ever had this happen?

Yesterday when I picked my Ford up at the body shop I got a message “fob battery very low, replace soon”. I thought that was odd since I changed the battery about a year ago. I tried my spare and got the same message.

What are the odds of two fob batteries being low? Could this have anything to do with the car battery being 6 years old? Maybe I’m getting a message for the fob but it’s actually my car battery getting weak.

driver100

@ oldfarmer50 Just an amateur opinion but the battery in the FOB in the 2014 C250 goes quite often.....I'd say every 6 months. I keep a few of them in the house and in the car. The one for the 2015 GLK lasts longer...but it needs to be changed about once a year. The one in the 2017 seems to last about 2 years....so I think they have found a way to make them last longer.
But, a car battery that is 6 years old is on borrowed time............is it worth getting stuck somewhere and trying to get another years use from a battery? The one in the GLK failed once this winter, we replaced it last week, it is 6 years old, they said it was weak and the normal life span is 3 to 5 years for the GLK.

driver100

snakeweasel said:

roadburner said:

ronsteve said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

Just an auto tranny that can think on its feet... or if you're driving stick, you need to be in the right gear. Torque is what will cover those sins.

If I put the 2er and its 8HP in Sport mode the transmission shifts exactly the way I would 99% of the time- including when it’s on the track. It tends to spoil you.

On the bike I feel the same way, in sport mode it shifts very close to where I would. My only issue is that in sport mode I would usually be one gear higher at crusing speeds. As an example I have to hit 60 MPH for it to shift into 6th in sport mode.

When you say "bike" are we talking your motorbike or your bike....bike?

imidazol97

@kyfdx
Several for Cincinnati, Mt Carmel, 3 in New Richmond.
Caseys in Mt Carmel...

Some are marinas.
https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=OH

kyfdx

imidazol97 said:

@kyfdx
Several for Cincinnati, Mt Carmel, 3 in New Richmond.
Caseys in Mt Carmel...

Some are marinas.
https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=OH

Those are new since the last time I checked. I think Casey’s is new to the area. Casey’s isn’t too far, but still 20 miles. I’d have to regularly be driving by a location to bother.

Thanks!

imidazol97

abacomike said:

I take the G90 in for diagnostics and problem solving with the Hyundai engineering team and my local dealership’s service manager tomorrow morning. They told me they received an overnight air shipment of a new module and a separate modem, depending on what their investigative efforts uncover as the culprit preventing connectivity between the car and the Verizon cell towers.

I would think they would just go ahead and replace the parts and then send the retrieved parts from my car to California and then South Korea for further diagnostic investigation in order to save time and labor. But I am thinking logically and in most situations they don’t!

Actually, when changing out parts rather than diagnosing to find which _one_ is the defective part, there's always the risk of putting in another part that causes problems which were not there to begin with.

I've followed as many Buick and Chevrolet owners try troubleshooting based on the codes at a parts store with a nonmechanic young'n giving opinions on what parts to change. They replace things such as MAF sensors or oxygen sensors that aren't the problem. Replacing such parts with non-ACDelco parts often ends up with another part that's not in synch and causing more headaches because it's off brand and off quality.

In this case of the G90, an original part may help. But likely they want to know which part is causing the problem. Your car likely is not the only one having this problem.

imidazol97

driver100 said:

@ oldfarmer50 Just an amateur opinion but the battery in the FOB in the 2014 C250 goes quite often.....I'd say every 6 months. I keep a few of them in the house and in the car. The one for the 2015 GLK lasts longer...but it needs to be changed about once a year. The one in the 2017 seems to last about 2 years....so I think they have found a way to make them last longer.
But, a car battery that is 6 years old is on borrowed time............is it worth getting stuck somewhere and trying to get another years use from a battery? The one in the GLK failed once this winter, we replaced it last week, it is 6 years old, they said it was weak and the normal life span is 3 to 5 years for the GLK.

Mine is 7 years old in the Malibu and still tests great. Both of them.

imidazol97

abacomike said:

When you’ve submitted a thesis paper for a Master’s Degree and a Dissertation for a doctoral degree, you learn the written, expressive language pretty darn quick - or disaster ensues! 🤪😜🤓

My guy's pet grammar catch was split infinitives. I don't know what difference it is going to totally make
if you put a word in between. That and ending sentences with prepositions; what else can you
end a sentence with?

explorerx4

@oldfarmer50,
Easiest thing to try is to replace both key fob batteries.
I think we have replaced the batteries in both fobs for my wife's MKC(over 5 years old).

ab348

When I took the ATS in for service Friday, one of my 2 issues was that the CUE infotainment system would occasionally freeze up, not accepting input from the touchscreen, and then start changing screens on its own and changing music sources on its own too. When you shut the car down and then started it again everything would work again and it would continue to work for the rest of the day.

I described this to them and they wrote it all down on the work order. When I picked the car up they said these symptoms were a documented issue and that a "reprogram" of CUE with the latest update was the fix. Great! It worked fine on the way home. I didn't use the car yesterday but this aft I had some errands. Any guesses on what it did about 30 seconds after I started it?

driver100

imidazol97 said:

driver100 said:

@ oldfarmer50 Just an amateur opinion but the battery in the FOB in the 2014 C250 goes quite often.....I'd say every 6 months. I keep a few of them in the house and in the car. The one for the 2015 GLK lasts longer...but it needs to be changed about once a year. The one in the 2017 seems to last about 2 years....so I think they have found a way to make them last longer.
But, a car battery that is 6 years old is on borrowed time............is it worth getting stuck somewhere and trying to get another years use from a battery? The one in the GLK failed once this winter, we replaced it last week, it is 6 years old, they said it was weak and the normal life span is 3 to 5 years for the GLK.

Mine is 7 years old in the Malibu and still tests great. Both of them.

I have a feeling that extra electronic gadgets use up battery power more than not having as much electronics. Also, the battery may have lasted another year...it only goes about 4k miles a year and is in the garage 98% of the time, but if the battery goes everything has to be reprogrammed which is expensive....would rather do it a bit early.

Like JMonroe said, he'd rather do it a year early than a month too late.....oh, sorry that was roofs he was talking about, but, the same idea.

roadburner

I’d want to know exactly what needs to be “reprogrammed” after a dead battery incident. It sounds like a scam to me. I’ve accidentally run down the batteries in the M235i and the Clubman and in the case of the 2er the only thing that was affected was the trip odometer. The Clubman needed the clock reset and the power windows re-initialized(which takes all of 20seconds per side).

jmonroe1

imidazol97 said:

There are a few stations around me like BP and Casey's that sell 100% gasoline. IIRC Casey's has a higher octance than the 97 regular. Their pumps were confusing when I went to use it. Their webpage says they have 87 and 91 octane 100%. The area BP had theirs labelled for recreational vehicles?


I believed the Cobalt ran better on the 100% fuel, but the octane difference may have helped. It reacted
better while driving.

In the Cruze I've been using midgrade because a GM knowledgeable person told me GM was recommending midgrade instead of regular for turbo models. The Cruze likes midgrade.

I'll have to try a couple of fill ups with 100% gasoline.

I don’t remember recommending any type of gas for your Cruze.

jmonroe

imidazol97

jmonroe1 said:

imidazol97 said:

There are a few stations around me like BP and Casey's that sell 100% gasoline. IIRC Casey's has a higher octance than the 97 regular. Their pumps were confusing when I went to use it. Their webpage says they have 87 and 91 octane 100%. The area BP had theirs labelled for recreational vehicles?


I believed the Cobalt ran better on the 100% fuel, but the octane difference may have helped. It reacted
better while driving.

In the Cruze I've been using midgrade because a GM knowledgeable person told me GM was recommending midgrade instead of regular for turbo models. The Cruze likes midgrade.

I'll have to try a couple of fill ups with 100% gasoline.

I don’t remember recommending any type of gas for your Cruze.

jmonroe

Above your paygrade? I was told by a service person. I took his comments to heart.

carnaught

driver100 said:

@ oldfarmer50 Just an amateur opinion but the battery in the FOB in the 2014 C250 goes quite often.....I'd say every 6 months. I keep a few of them in the house and in the car. The one for the 2015 GLK lasts longer...but it needs to be changed about once a year. The one in the 2017 seems to last about 2 years....so I think they have found a way to make them last longer.
But, a car battery that is 6 years old is on borrowed time............is it worth getting stuck somewhere and trying to get another years use from a battery? The one in the GLK failed once this winter, we replaced it last week, it is 6 years old, they said it was weak and the normal life span is 3 to 5 years for the GLK.

@driver100, apparently you wear the C250 key fob in your back pocket.

driver100

roadburner said:

I’d want to know exactly what needs to be “reprogrammed” after a dead battery incident. It sounds like a scam to me. I’ve accidentally run down the batteries in the M235i and the Clubman and in the case of the 2er the only thing that was affected was the trip odometer. The Clubman needed the clock reset and the power windows re-initialized(which takes all of 20seconds per side).

This video shows what can happen if you have a dead battery in an MB. He fortunately fixed it for $45, but if he couldn't do it then it would have cost him $2000.
btw...it warns you in the manual not to leave your MB without charging for more than 6 weeks, it is costly to reset all the programs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8snjCbo8exg

driver100

carnaught said:

driver100 said:

@ oldfarmer50 Just an amateur opinion but the battery in the FOB in the 2014 C250 goes quite often.....I'd say every 6 months. I keep a few of them in the house and in the car. The one for the 2015 GLK lasts longer...but it needs to be changed about once a year. The one in the 2017 seems to last about 2 years....so I think they have found a way to make them last longer.
But, a car battery that is 6 years old is on borrowed time............is it worth getting stuck somewhere and trying to get another years use from a battery? The one in the GLK failed once this winter, we replaced it last week, it is 6 years old, they said it was weak and the normal life span is 3 to 5 years for the GLK.

@driver100, apparently you put the C250 key fob in your back pocket thus deploying it frequently.

Carnaught, it is a pretty bulky key fob....one place I would never put it is in my back pocket. I think over the years MB got better at making the battery last longer.

abacomike

imidazol97 said:

abacomike said:

When you’ve submitted a thesis paper for a Master’s Degree and a Dissertation for a doctoral degree, you learn the written, expressive language pretty darn quick - or disaster ensues! 🤪😜🤓

My guy's pet grammar catch was split infinitives. I don't know what difference it is going to totally make
if you put a word in between. That and ending sentences with prepositions; what else can you
end a sentence with?

A period, exclamation mark ❗️ , or a question mark ❓ 😜🤪

ab348

Since dealers are closed here on Sundays, I tool some time today to visit the car dealer lots for the first time since late last year. For the most part, I’ve never seen some of them so empty. Some were worse than others. Hyundai, Mazda and Nissan seemed to have lots of new inventory. Honda and Toyota were sort of in the middle. GM, Ford and to a lesser extent FCA were pretty thin. The GM dealer had next to no new inventory. The Ford dealer had a decent number of Escapes and even 10 or so new Fusions but no pickups or bigger SUVs.

roadburner

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

I’d want to know exactly what needs to be “reprogrammed” after a dead battery incident. It sounds like a scam to me. I’ve accidentally run down the batteries in the M235i and the Clubman and in the case of the 2er the only thing that was affected was the trip odometer. The Clubman needed the clock reset and the power windows re-initialized(which takes all of 20seconds per side).

This video shows what can happen if you have a dead battery in an MB. He fortunately fixed it for $45, but if he couldn't do it then it would have cost him $2000.
btw...it warns you in the manual not to leave your MB without charging for more than 6 weeks, it is costly to reset all the programs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8snjCbo8exg

So in spite of all of the jokes about having to register a BMW battery, what it boils down to is that any shop or individual with a $170 Foxwell NT510 scanner or the Carly app can complete a BMW or Mini battery registration in under 10 minutes- but Mercedes has built a $2,000 profit center into their cars because if a battery goes south various control modules lose the capability to communicate with each other.
That makes much more sense- if you are an M-B dealer!

fintail

Those W203s have a pretty bad rep, not MB's finest hour - they are already aging out. I assume someone with a scan/program tool could work on a bit of that.

I'd be curious as to any similar issues on current models.

driver100 said:

This video shows what can happen if you have a dead battery in an MB. He fortunately fixed it for $45, but if he couldn't do it then it would have cost him $2000.
btw...it warns you in the manual not to leave your MB without charging for more than 6 weeks, it is costly to reset all the programs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8snjCbo8exg

driver100

fintail said:

Those W203s have a pretty bad rep, not MB's finest hour - they are already aging out. I assume someone with a scan/program tool could work on a bit of that.

I'd be curious as to any similar issues on current models.

driver100 said:

This video shows what can happen if you have a dead battery in an MB. He fortunately fixed it for $45, but if he couldn't do it then it would have cost him $2000.
btw...it warns you in the manual not to leave your MB without charging for more than 6 weeks, it is costly to reset all the programs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8snjCbo8exg

The manual for the GLK and the E400 say don't leave the car off charge for more than 6 weeks. My friend who had the Maserati left his car for 4 weeks and it died. When he came back from his trip the dealer told him it had to be on a charge if left for 2 weeks....the cost to reprogram would be $4000. They did it for him under warranty, though they didn't have to.

driver100

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

I’d want to know exactly what needs to be “reprogrammed” after a dead battery incident. It sounds like a scam to me. I’ve accidentally run down the batteries in the M235i and the Clubman and in the case of the 2er the only thing that was affected was the trip odometer. The Clubman needed the clock reset and the power windows re-initialized(which takes all of 20seconds per side).

This video shows what can happen if you have a dead battery in an MB. He fortunately fixed it for $45, but if he couldn't do it then it would have cost him $2000.
btw...it warns you in the manual not to leave your MB without charging for more than 6 weeks, it is costly to reset all the programs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8snjCbo8exg

So in spite of all of the jokes about having to register a BMW battery, what it boils down to is that any shop or individual with a $170 Foxwell NT510 scanner or the Carly app can complete a BMW or Mini battery registration in under 10 minutes- but Mercedes has built a $2,000 profit center into their cars because if a battery goes south various control modules lose the capability to communicate with each other.
That makes much more sense- if you are an M-B dealer!

You may want to read this article:

BMW BATTERY REGISTERING & PROGRAMMING EXPLAINED

In the good old days when your BMW battery died one could go to the local auto shop, pick up a new one, replace it at home and get back on the road. Unfortunately, with the late model BMW's battery replacement is not as simple yesteryears. The new batteries need to be replaced by a dealer or qualified Euro specialist with the right tools to either register or program the car to your new battery. Failure to do so can result in overcharging of your new battery or even electrical malfunction.

Why do new model BMW’s need battery programming and old ones do not?
The newer BMW models listed above are significantly more advanced electronically than models from the 1990s and older. All of the advancement is ultimately pushed forward in the name of improving gas mileage. The newer models are equipped with IBS or Intelligent Battery Sensors. The IBS system is attached to the negative battery terminal and contains micro processors which measure and monitor voltage, current, charge and discharge as well as temperature of the battery.
https://bimmertips.com/bmw-battery-registering-and-programming-explained/

roadburner

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

driver100 said:

roadburner said:

I’d want to know exactly what needs to be “reprogrammed” after a dead battery incident. It sounds like a scam to me. I’ve accidentally run down the batteries in the M235i and the Clubman and in the case of the 2er the only thing that was affected was the trip odometer. The Clubman needed the clock reset and the power windows re-initialized(which takes all of 20seconds per side).

This video shows what can happen if you have a dead battery in an MB. He fortunately fixed it for $45, but if he couldn't do it then it would have cost him $2000.
btw...it warns you in the manual not to leave your MB without charging for more than 6 weeks, it is costly to reset all the programs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8snjCbo8exg

So in spite of all of the jokes about having to register a BMW battery, what it boils down to is that any shop or individual with a $170 Foxwell NT510 scanner or the Carly app can complete a BMW or Mini battery registration in under 10 minutes- but Mercedes has built a $2,000 profit center into their cars because if a battery goes south various control modules lose the capability to communicate with each other.
That makes much more sense- if you are an M-B dealer!

You may want to read this article:

BMW BATTERY REGISTERING & PROGRAMMING EXPLAINED

In the good old days when your BMW battery died one could go to the local auto shop, pick up a new one, replace it at home and get back on the road. Unfortunately, with the late model BMW's battery replacement is not as simple yesteryears. The new batteries need to be replaced by a dealer or qualified Euro specialist with the right tools to either register or program the car to your new battery. Failure to do so can result in overcharging of your new battery or even electrical malfunction.

Why do new model BMW’s need battery programming and old ones do not?
The newer BMW models listed above are significantly more advanced electronically than models from the 1990s and older. All of the advancement is ultimately pushed forward in the name of improving gas mileage. The newer models are equipped with IBS or Intelligent Battery Sensors. The IBS system is attached to the negative battery terminal and contains micro processors which measure and monitor voltage, current, charge and discharge as well as temperature of the battery.
https://bimmertips.com/bmw-battery-registering-and-programming-explained/

Do you even read what you cut and paste?
As I said, BMWs and Minis with IBS should have a new battery registered- which I'm able to do with either my Foxwell Scanner or my Carly app.
Explain how that contradicts the four year old article you posted(which, by the way, appears to be designed to coerce easily frightened and uniformed owners into taking their car to a "professional" for anything short of filling it up with fuel).

fintail

I got back from a 2-3 week trip to a dead battery once, I think it was low before, due to short trips. MB roadside assistance jumped it, then no issues.

For that 4K quote, I'd put the dealer and MB on social media blast if I had that kind of situation - if this really is a thing, it is so unusual compared to what people are used to re: vehicle maintenance, that it could end up causing huge reputational damage.

driver100 said:

The manual for the GLK and the E400 say don't leave the car off charge for more than 6 weeks. My friend who had the Maserati left his car for 4 weeks and it died. When he came back from his trip the dealer told him it had to be on a charge if left for 2 weeks....the cost to reprogram would be $4000. They did it for him under warranty, though they didn't have to.

ronsteve

driver100 said:

imidazol97 said:

driver100 said:

@ oldfarmer50 Just an amateur opinion but the battery in the FOB in the 2014 C250 goes quite often.....I'd say every 6 months. I keep a few of them in the house and in the car. The one for the 2015 GLK lasts longer...but it needs to be changed about once a year. The one in the 2017 seems to last about 2 years....so I think they have found a way to make them last longer.
But, a car battery that is 6 years old is on borrowed time............is it worth getting stuck somewhere and trying to get another years use from a battery? The one in the GLK failed once this winter, we replaced it last week, it is 6 years old, they said it was weak and the normal life span is 3 to 5 years for the GLK.

Mine is 7 years old in the Malibu and still tests great. Both of them.

I have a feeling that extra electronic gadgets use up battery power more than not having as much electronics. Also, the battery may have lasted another year...it only goes about 4k miles a year and is in the garage 98% of the time, but if the battery goes everything has to be reprogrammed which is expensive....would rather do it a bit early.

Like JMonroe said, he'd rather do it a year early than a month too late.....oh, sorry that was roofs he was talking about, but, the same idea.

The battery in the wife's Jetta lasted just over 7 years, Dealer had warned at my routine service in Feb 2020 that it was weak, and it left me not wanting to start in Sept 2020. TPMS module seems to have failed as a result. Oops.

The battery in the Volvo lasted just over 9 years. Had it replaced when low voltage came back as the reason for the airbag system throwing a fault code.

The RDX, based on its Carfax, is now right around 3 years on its second battery, about the same amount of time the original lasted.

snakeweasel

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

snakeweasel said:

oldfarmer50 said:

tjc78 said:

310HP and 350 torque.... no slouch at all. More power than many “muscle cars” in the past.

I’d still want the V8... but 300 HP is 300 HP

No doubt 300+ hp. Is considerable (equal to the 4.6L GT) but the bar keeps getting raised. When challenged by a 700hp Hellcat at the stop light drag race 300hp is puny relatively speaking.

But if you don't care if the guy next to you gets ahead off the light and you really wouldn't need a 5.1 second 0 - 60 time then why spend the 10 grand or more for what you won't use?

I just need the extra horses for getting onto highways, or to maneuver into a safer position, but, not to race someone, been there and done that.
I got over that when I used to race a friend and we drove our parents Hillmans....must have done 0 to 60 in about 22 seconds.
We also drove around in 90 degree temperatures with the windows rolled up so people would think we had air conditioning.

in reality you need torque for getting onto highways and maneuvering into a safer position. But sometimes you need to use the braking power to get to a safer position. That being said do you really need all that excess power? I would say no as cars with way less power can do it.

Yes, you can find a way to get onto a highway with less power, but often it means slowing down and waiting which can lead to other problems and though you can do it, it won't be as safe.

I had a situation a few days ago that I will try to explain. I am on the entrtry ramp.....the guy ahead of me is a slow driver, the guy behind me is on my bumper. I leave more space than normal in front because the guy in front is the type who is going to have trouble getting onto the highway. As the guy in front goes to get on there is a car in the right lane on the highway going by, he slows down to let it go by and slowly gets on. It is my turn, I am running out of entry ramp, there is another car in the right lane that isn't slowing down to let me in....if I slow down I got the guy on my bumper, and I am running out of entry ramp....I would have to slow down to a crawl or stop....but the 340 horses allowed me to propel myself to enter the highway before the car already in the right lane gets there....she didn't have to slow down and I don't think she would have, and the guy behind me can find a space behind the car that I got in front of.

Traffic kept moving which is important.....traffic should flow, no one had to do anything to avoid an accident, the extra power made it possible. If I was driving our old Passat I would have done it differently, but there would be more chance of something going wrong and it would have made it harder for the guy behind me to get on and other cars behind him....in fact that is how some rear enders can happen.

Horsepower can be a safety feature.....I have had underpowered cars and more powerful cars and I prefer the ones with more power.....for safety reasons mainly, and the intoxicating feeling of making those horses run.

I have been in situations like that and was able to do it in a 200 HP Sonata, a 175 HP Sebring. Don't need massive amounts of Torque.

I guaranty I wouldn't have been able to do it in the 2013 Passat, or any of my previous cars. None of them took off like this one. And that was just one example.....I use the extra horses defensively about twice a week, sometimes to get on the highway before the big transport truck is beside me, or to stay ahead of a big pack of cars, and it gives the cars behind me more time to plan their entrance.
Horses for Safety....that's my motto!

Well to be honest in your example it shouldn't hard to maintain the same speed as the car in front of you and merge in behind them. If they are going that slow then faster moving traffic in the right lane will either merge into one of the lanes to the left or slow down, either way it would allow you to merge in behind them. The only reason to use all that power would be to zip around them as you merge in.

As for using the extra power twice a week, that does seem excessive, I cannot think of that many examples in a year where I would even come close to using all my power. Maybe there are other issues at play here?