Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

imidazol97

ab348 said:

I'm not sure I understand the question you're asking. You have an existing central air duct system is what I believe you're saying. I suggested what I believe best for a cold climate where the heat pump system becomes less efficient as the ambient air becomes colder and the heat loss demands through the walls become greater. And that's a gas/heat pump system.

On This Old House they've installed the split systems with multiple internal wall units being fed from one outside unit through copper tubing carrying the freon to the various internal units. The ease of that installation would depend on your home having a basement for the runs or doing this during a remodel. The system could supply freon to the internal units on individual demands, controlling the units from the brain in the outside box.

Also on This Old House, they've adjusted the usual central air/heat systems using controls placed in certain ducts that can close off the duct to various degrees on a dynamic basis. One used small air tubes from the central control. Closing off some ducts to zones (rooms) that didn't need heat or cooling allowed the output of the unit to go to the other rooms. Individual zones had their own thermostats which communicated with the central brain.

Friends of mine in N. Kentucky had a poorly designed duct system and had a bedroom at the end of a long run with 3 90-degree bends in the ducts. So he had looked into this to direct more heat and cold to the master bedroom. They ended up installing a wall unit like a motel might use for extra heat and cooling in the bedroom.

ab348

imidazol97 said:

ab348 said:

I'm not sure I understand the question you're asking. You have an existing central air duct system is what I believe you're saying. I suggested what I believe best for a cold climate where the heat pump system becomes less efficient as the ambient air becomes colder and the heat loss demands through the walls become greater. And that's a gas/heat pump system.

On This Old House they've installed the split systems with multiple internal wall units being fed from one outside unit through copper tubing carrying the freon to the various internal units. The ease of that installation would depend on your home having a basement for the runs or doing this during a remodel. The system could supply freon to the internal units on individual demands, controlling the units from the brain in the outside box.

Also on This Old House, they've adjusted the usual central air/heat systems using controls placed in certain ducts that can close off the duct to various degrees on a dynamic basis. One used small air tubes from the central control. Closing off some ducts to zones (rooms) that didn't need heat or cooling allowed the output of the unit to go to the other rooms. Individual zones had their own thermostats which communicated with the central brain.

Perhaps you misunderstood. With the new split units, they are so efficient in heating during cold temps that in this market people are using them as a primary heat source and not bothering with a furnace at all, using just some cheap electric baseboard as a seldom/never used backup. After all, why spend $5000 or more on a gas furnace you will seldom use? You do not get that same heat capture efficiency with the ducted systems, so you need something more robust for heating since you will be using it more often.

The multi-head split systems are indeed available. In my research I found they are priced at about the same level as a ducted heat pump would cost. You do gain efficiency with them, and if you do not have existing ductwork in your home they can substitute for a primary heating/cooling system. My question would be their lifespan, as they are still too new here to determine how long they will last in service.

For me it comes down to this: either (a) spend x on a split system, have it heat/cool most of my main level very efficiently most of the time, at the risk of not having anything other than stray heat in my unused basement, and possibly less than desirable levels of heat/cooling in the bedroom (just don't know); or (b) spend almost 2x on a ducted heat pump, have it distribute warm/cool air thoughout the house, even the largely unused basement, but need to use the gas furnace on the colder days, and pay more for electricity to run the comparably less efficient pump the rest of the time.

stickguy

Or do what I tell my family. Open a window if you are hot, and put on a sweater if you are cold. Both free!

Michaell

nyccarguy said:

https://www.yahoo.com/autos/why-bought-nissan-leaf-electric-car-2-hours-160000187.html

Attention Colorado Residents

That's a pretty sweet deal.

Mr_Shiftright

How does that tax credit work? Does it just come off the top of your gross annual income?

stickguy

Sounds perfect for you. Heck, could work for me at the pace I am putting on miles. About $160 per month, nothing at drive off, and own outright in 5 years. Perfect station car or local runabout.

28firefighter

Only problem is, you're stuck with a Leaf. I believe Qbrozen had one for a while, and did not find ownership particularly enjoyable, right?

I've driven one a couple times here in Seattle and found it to be about as entertaining as an Ikea coffee table.

Mr_Shiftright

Hopefully a bit sturdier than that....

PF_Flyer

Door ding...dang :@

About 1/2" long. This morning at the gym parking lot. Parking away from giant red trucks is almost impossible

andres3

oldfarmer50 said:

driver100 said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

stickguy said:

Well, after a few years, being under warranty doesn't eliminate the risk of failure or breakdown. Just who pays for it (with certain wear part exceptions).

Your Benz hitting 4 years old doesn't mean it will become any less reliable.

Sometimes it's not a matter of becoming unreliable, but rather that around 80K-90K some expensive components become "expendable". It's not all that uncommon for things like struts, brakes, an alternator perhaps, the AC system, or even just a really expensive 100K service to start adding up.

e.g, On an Audi S4, 7-8 years old, an alternator is $665, a single headlight assembly is $1100, starter motor $745, axle CV joint kit $770, replace damaged wheel $800. + labor of course on all these. It can add up.

Exactly! It has become more costly to keep repairing a car than replacing it. It is like TV's, there aren't any repairmen left because it costs more to fix them than it is to buy a new one. Not quite the same, but, there comes a point when it is just better to bite the bullet and get a newer car......my tolerance for problems is low, so I'll pay the extra amount to lessen my chances of having a problem.

Or do like I do and buy old cheap beaters. Forget about repairing anything that doesn't move it down the road. When you can't stand to be seen in it any more you park it on the side of the road and walk home.

I couldn't stand the thought of paying $1100 for a headlight assembly.

I'm sure you could find much cheaper headlight assemblies for the Audi S4 at many sources such as:

1) Junkyard
2) Made in China Aftermarket
3) Made in Korea Aftermarket

As to the damaged wheel, just get an aftermarket set of wheels if one wheel costs $800. Now that's ridiculous unless it is forged.

andres3

sda said:

We have Carrier central air, gas heat. One unit is a SEER 10, the other SEER 12. The SEER 10 was installed when we built the house in 2004, the SEER 12 when we finished the bonus room in 2006. Both have operated well and have been trouble free. With our rather warm summers, the air is on almost constantly. I am anticipating having to replace them at some point due to their age, and given the good service the they have given, will seriously consider Carrier as a replacement. What is standard these days SEER 14?

Lowest Standard in CA is now SEER 14. I'm buying a 16 SEER heat and AC system for my house as I like my AC a lot when it's hot in CA, and electricity is expensive in CA. Rarely use the heater (which is gas anyway; which also isn't cheap), but AC will be blasting for 4+ months easily (global warming).

imidazol97

ab348 said:

Perhaps you misunderstood. With the new split units, they are so efficient in heating during cold temps that in this market people are using them as a primary heat source and not bothering with a furnace at all, using just some cheap electric baseboard as a seldom/never used backup. After all, why spend $5000 or more on a gas furnace you will seldom use? You do not get that same heat capture efficiency with the ducted systems, so you need something more robust for heating since you will be using it more often.

Now I see better. You have an existing gas furnace with duct system. You can add the split heat pump system with 1 or more interior evaporators to cool and heat. I would keep the current gas furnace for cold days as your backup heat source instead of adding any electric strip heaters as backup. The split systems tout their efficiency compared to a central system, but there are sites remarking on the downside as well. To me, the physico-chemical properties of the freon are the same for both central and split systems. The inverter compressors save energy primarily because they change compressor speed to adjust for demand. In coldest temperatures where the freon's ability to glean heat from the cold air at 10 deg and below drops geometrically and the heat loss through the walls and ceilings increases exponentially, there's a point where the cost of electricity used per BTU of heat put into the house goes above the cost of operating the gas furnace, even if it's aged and lower than the newest gas furnaces have as efficiency. I just don't believe the folks saying the split units are much better in SEER ratings and cost savings and can operate getting even more heat from colder air than the central units to be able to heat where a central heat pump unit couldn't keep up with the heat loss in the building.

Later you could update the gas furnace to a more efficient unit as well.

tifighter

28firefighter said:

Only problem is, you're stuck with a Leaf. I believe Qbrozen had one for a while, and did not find ownership particularly enjoyable, right?

I've driven one a couple times here in Seattle and found it to be about as entertaining as an Ikea coffee table.

Hey now.

We are coming up on two years on ours and really like it. Rides well, quiet, great city car. 100 miles of range costs about $1.72 here in the PNW too. Which is nice. Not much to service. You want a 13 or later though, improved battery, more efficient heater, etc.

graphicguy

nyccarguy said:

https://www.yahoo.com/autos/why-bought-nissan-leaf-electric-car-2-hours-160000187.html

Attention Colorado Residents

Nice find. Hell, for $8,500 I'd write a check at the local Nissan dealer right now. I'd use it for grocery getting and Costco runs. Probably couldn't make the Airport with one (if only the airport had charging stations), but that would seal the deal.

driver100

Michaell said:

nyccarguy said:

https://www.yahoo.com/autos/why-bought-nissan-leaf-electric-car-2-hours-160000187.html

Attention Colorado Residents

That's a pretty sweet deal.

Good deal, $8000 for a new Leaf with incentives.....BUT, IT ONLY GOES ABOUT 90 MILES ON A CHARGE

ab348

Comments now being held for approval?

ETA: This one appeared immediately so I am baffled, I have 2 in the queue that are identical because I didn't see where the first one disappeared to after it was submitted. What's up?

tifighter

driver100 said:

Michaell said:

nyccarguy said:

https://www.yahoo.com/autos/why-bought-nissan-leaf-electric-car-2-hours-160000187.html

Attention Colorado Residents

That's a pretty sweet deal.

Good deal, $8000 for a new Leaf with incentives.....BUT, IT ONLY GOES ABOUT 90 MILES ON A CHARGE

We got ours as a second car but it quickly ended up getting about 95% of our household miles. We realized we very rarely drive more than 90 miles per day. My commute to the office is 27 miles each way; airport is about the same. We have the Volvo for trips, but the Leaf does the heavy lifting in the house.

stickguy

Driver, would be perfect instead of your Passat for what you use it for. Not so much the E400.

ab348

imidazol97 said:

I just don't believe the folks saying the split units are much better in SEER ratings and cost savings and can operate getting even more heat from colder air than the central units to be able to heat where a central heat pump unit couldn't keep up with the heat loss in the building.

Later you could update the gas furnace to a more efficient unit as well.

My furnace, though 10 years old, is a 90+ unit (I believe 94%), so no issue ther.e The problem is that the price of NG has skyrocketed here because we no longer have a local supply, making it more expensive than either heating oil or propane.

As for the split efficiency ratings, here is one that is being proposed for me at 27 SEER:

http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/wallmountedRLS2.htm

ab348

Duplicate post

stever

ab348 said:

Comments now being held for approval?

ETA: This one appeared immediately so I am baffled, I have 2 in the queue that are identical because I didn't see where the first one disappeared to after it was submitted. What's up?

If it was your "first" post that didn't get published, then my guess is that the automated spam filter grabbed it because of the links in the post. It is was a "duplicate", then it may have been grabbed for too frequent posting (another spam trigger).

In any event, the software has been informed that your posts are legit and you are now able to introduce us to your Nigerian Prince brother in law.

Michaell

Re: Leaf range.

Does that go down in the winter? I could live with 90 miles for what I use my car for.

stickguy

Yes. Drops if real cold or hot. And when you use accessories.

Michaell

stickguy said:

Yes. Drops if real cold or hot. And when you use accessories.

So if I prefer to ride in miserable silence, I can get that kind of range.

No, thanks.

andres3

snakeweasel said:

andres3 said:

snakeweasel said:

andres3 said:

snakeweasel said:

suydam said:

snakeweasel said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

stever said:

iluvmysephia1 said:

Even though I haven't even test-driven an Audi or a BMW before, I could see how I might like one. An S4 perhaps - I just tread carefully with costs

Audi just blew the doors off in the 2016 Consumer Reports best car brands report. "They need to have consistency across a range of models in reliability and drive quality to get to the top," (USA Today)

So everything we thought we knew about spotty reliability of Audis is wrong.

Kia came in at number 9, a couple of spots ahead of Hyundai, which surprised me.

Doesn't say what the basis for this "reliability" is, but apparently, using the same testing methods, the top single car was the Chevrolet Impala. So I guess we can say Chevrolets are better than Audis?

Doesn't CR use self reporting surveys to make these reliability lists? If so those surveys are notoriously inaccurate.

The database is huge and extends over many years. If they don't have enough data (new model, not enough buyers reporting), they won't make an evaluation.

It may be huge and extend over many years but it still is a self reported survey and self reported surveys are unreliable.

Depends what you are self reporting about. That is an overly blanket generalization that just doesn't pass muster.

Sorry it doesn't depend on what you are self reporting. In any self reporting surveys there is a strong bias of those doing the reporting. People replying to surveys like this can either respond based on perception , on idealized views, with wishful thinking, on frustrations and a few other things that can cloud judgment in these areas participants can even be lying. Even something like timing can cloud a persons reporting. Say a minor electrical issue with a car happing now could cause the respondent to give the car bad marks. Yet six months down the road that same person may have a different view on the situation and think it's not as bad.

It's not a overly blanket generalization since groups that do such surveys go through extensive steps to weed out issues with self reporting surveys. And some just won't do them because of issues with them. Just remember that a few years ago there was such a survey that showed that about 10% of the UK's pregnant teenagers were virgins.

All the problems with self-reporting you cite are resolved with sheer numbers. Having a large enough sample size does wonders. It equalizes those that are skewed "due to a recent problem" with those that are loving their vehicle because of no recent problems in short-term memory. Unless one car is giving more "recent" problems to make a larger percentage of the population give bad marks, it should be the same across the board; great for comparing results.

Sorry but a larger sample does nothing to address the issues with self reporting surveys. The problem with the no recent issues issue is that people tend to remember issues longer if a car has a reputation of poor reliability over a car with a better reputation (or at least in the owners mind). It's like a self fulfilling prophecy.

Self-fulfilling prophecy, or simple odds and probabilities? After all, why would a car have a reputation for poor reliability if there wasn't a history of poor reliability? Reputations are earned, unless it is all marketing hype and PR. Do you think someone spent a lot of money to "trick" people into thinking truly reliable cars were somehow unreliable?

stickguy

Radio is ok. Just stay away from bun warmers, heat and AC!

andres3

abacomike said:

@snakeweasel

Also, remember that these surveys are completed voluntarily - people who do not want to spend 30-45 minutes completing these surveys report nothing.  Owners with an "axe to grind" will take the time to respond.  Owners who are "in love with their brand" will take the time to respond.  But what about others who believe completing the survey will change nothing?

The only way to accurately determine which vehicles are more trouble-free and which vehicles are problematic is to have total access to warranty repairs for the term of the warranty.  That will never happen, so we have to live with the data gleaned from voluntarily returned JD Power, Marantz, etc., surveys.

In order for the problem with people with an "axe to grind" and people that "love their car" to matter, you'd have to prove that a certain brand has a higher ratio of "Axes to grind" or "people that love their car" for a reason other than that manufacturer's own fault. Why would brand A be different than brand B? Given equal quality and reliability, brand A and Brand B should have the same amount of axes and lovers filling out surveys.

I have a few axes towards Chrysler, but I'd never buy another one just to fill out a survey for CR. And I certainly wouldn't waste my time with "false" reporting. But again, why would Chrysler suffer from more "false" reporters than anyone else? Sample size equalizes this completely, there's no other way to see it in my view.

tifighter

Michaell said:

Re: Leaf range.

Does that go down in the winter? I could live with 90 miles for what I use my car for.

Cold definitely affects range. Heat not so much; A/C is pretty efficient. Batteries don't like to be cold in general, so if you park it outside, unplugged on a below freezing night, then the range takes a significant hit. Garage or plugged in overnight can change this. You can run the heater off 'shore power'(i.e. plugged in) before you drive it via phone app, which heats the car and helps the battery before you leave.

16 Leaf has 107 mile range, btw.

andres3

cdnpinhead said:

snakeweasel said:

Due to miserable rush hour traffic that I usually drive through I have opted to go with the automatic transmissions. I have taken many of those cars well over 150K miles and if you replaced one clutch in your life you spent more on that "simpler bulletproof option" than I have on all my auto trannys.

To each their own, I guess. I had to live with several Chrysler products in the '90s, and 3 of the 3 (including my mother-in-law's car) needed the transmission overhauled. My Eagle Vision and the family Caravan completed the hat trick. The Eagle was the only daily driver I've ever owned with an automatic, in 1.3 million miles of driving.

Using Chrysler as a measuring stick for auto transmission durability is like .... "insert clever analogy here." Make it 4 for 4 if you add my '95 Dodge. 60,000 mile expected lifespan in the old 3-speed autos I guess (at least when they are driven with gusto). I suppose they might last longer for your typical "grandpa" driver.

I have 150K miles over 2 cars with 2 DSG transmissions; all trouble-free. Wife's at 11K miles trouble free on the 3rd DSG in the family.

imidazol97

stever said:

In any event, the software has been informed that your posts are legit and you are now able to introduce us to your Nigerian Prince brother in law.

That comment gave me my belly laugh of the day. LOL

imidazol97

stickguy said:

Yes. Drops if real cold or hot. And when you use accessories.

Accessories--like a heater? In Ohio in the winter? I assume that's electric resistance heating. No wonder I see so few of them. They're like convertibles--they can only be driven in the summer.

28firefighter

Sorry, @tifighter - maybe I drove an older one, but I just found myself longing for a combustion engine at the end of the experience. It felt like it did a lot, but none of it particularly well. I'll have to ask my friend what model year it was.

abacomike

andres3 said:

abacomike said:

@snakeweasel

Also, remember that these surveys are completed voluntarily - people who do not want to spend 30-45 minutes completing these surveys report nothing.  Owners with an "axe to grind" will take the time to respond.  Owners who are "in love with their brand" will take the time to respond.  But what about others who believe completing the survey will change nothing?

The only way to accurately determine which vehicles are more trouble-free and which vehicles are problematic is to have total access to warranty repairs for the term of the warranty.  That will never happen, so we have to live with the data gleaned from voluntarily returned JD Power, Marantz, etc., surveys.

In order for the problem with people with an "axe to grind" and people that "love their car" to matter, you'd have to prove that a certain brand has a higher ratio of "Axes to grind" or "people that love their car" for a reason other than that manufacturer's own fault. Why would brand A be different than brand B? Given equal quality and reliability, brand A and Brand B should have the same amount of axes and lovers filling out surveys.

I have a few axes towards Chrysler, but I'd never buy another one just to fill out a survey for CR. And I certainly wouldn't waste my time with "false" reporting. But again, why would Chrysler suffer from more "false" reporters than anyone else? Sample size equalizes this completely, there's no other way to see it in my view.

It would appear that you misinterpreted what I was trying to communicate by my above post. Let me try once again:

Way back when the original post was generated regarding problems per 100 cars, a discussion ensued about the reliability and/or trustworthiness of such reports which are based solely on feedback provided on survey forms completed by owners/lessees of new cars as well as follow-ups to those originally surveyed as the car ages and/or is driven a number of miles. The point I was trying to make is that the reason these reports (problems per 100 cars or any ratio of problems per car) need to used or interpreted loosely is because of how and from whom the data is collected.

As an example, if the data collected shows that the average Chevrolet Corvette shows 8 problems per 100 cars or any ratio similar, that does not mean there are an average of 8 problems per Chevrolet Corvette. It can only be interpreted that of those responding to our survey, there were 8 problems per 100 vehicles noted by the respondents. Next, one must determine how the "sample" was generated. Was the survey sent to all purchasers/lessees of that particular vehicle or a sample of that population. We must assume it was a sample. My comment has to do with what is actual and what is reported by the sample. Of the number of surveys mailed to a specific population, what percentage were returned. How did that "return from respondents" compare to other vehicles/brands.

In summary, the only way to accurately determine problems per vehicle is to have access to manufacturers' warranty reports on repairs and adjustments made to each model of vehicle each manufacturer sold. Any other manner of determining problems per vehicle is merely an estimate based upon returned surveys, not an actual number because of the fact that it is a sample and that everyone sent the survey did not respond, for one reason or another.

I hope I made myself a bit clearer to you, andres3. I was not looking for an argument with you, merely stating a assumption I made.

driver100

Does anyone know how to buy a good Pickleball Paddle?

I was checking them out on amazon and I can get one with 4 out of 5 stars for about $35 to $40. Anything cheaper has less than 4 stars.
To get one with 5 stars they run about $60 and go up to $200. I don't mind spending the extra amount...$60 instead of $35 if it makes a big enough difference, considering I am just a beginner.

Using the Driver Amortization Method the difference in price over 5 years works out to $5 a year or 42 cents a month.

abacomike

driver100 said:

Does anyone know how to buy a good Pickleball Paddle? I was checking them out on amazon and I can get one with 4 out of 5 stars for about $35 to $40. Anything cheaper has less than 4 stars. To get one with 5 stars they run about $60 and go up to $200. I don't mind spending the extra amount...$60 instead of $35 if it makes a big enough difference, considering I am just a beginner. Using the Driver Amortization Method the difference in price over 5 years works out to $5 a year or 42 cents a month.

Maybe if I knew what a Pickleball Paddle was, I could help. 

tifighter

I play a lot of pickleball. A Champion Graphite is a good paddle to invest in and use as you learn the game. Midweight. Eventually you may move to something else, but it is a good place to start. It is the standard, really.

qbrozen

Yes, life with the Leaf was pretty miserable for us. I could get 100 miles in absolutely perfect conditions and driving it like I was afraid it would break. Forget any highway use, climate control, or spirited driving if you had to worry about range. And, yeah, you could preheat the car as long as you were plugged in. What about the return trip home, though? Yup, I found that out the hard way, freezing my butt off for 60 minutes (because I had to drive real slow and add 20 mins to my commute).

Driving like a normal person, I would get about 75-80 miles in nice weather and 60-65 if temps were in the 30s.

driver100

stickguy said:

Driver, would be perfect instead of your Passat for what you use it for. Not so much the E400.

Good point. However, for the first few years we were flying down to stay for about a week, and the Florida Car was then used to actually go places. Even Tampa Int'l airport is about 50 or 60 miles so we can't even pick someone up.

These days the Passat is just used mostly for my wife to get to tennis, probably a taxi would cost less. But, we bought it when the Cdn $ was about 94 cents US, now it is about 74 cents US, so we have probably made money on it....one of my better investments. Same with the house, I should have bought a $1million house, would have made about $400000 in 5 years.

But, no, 90 miles is not enough, especially considering round trip. The Passat just needs one or two fill ups per year....and that's about $20 - $40 worth of gas per year these days, so those savings wouldn't be much. Would save me buying Stabil and a trickle charger. No, not for me, but I am a good candidate.

tifighter

28firefighter said:

Sorry, @tifighter - maybe I drove an older one, but I just found myself longing for a combustion engine at the end of the experience. It felt like it did a lot, but none of it particularly well. I'll have to ask my friend what model year it was.

Hey no worries. It isn't for everyone. A Leaf, and all these 1st gen electrics really, are great second cars. It would be a poor choice for most as an only car unless your usage was pretty specific. I leased mine as I wasn't sure at the time how it would work out. People at work thought I was nuts and had the same questions and issues above. Now, of course, three other coworkers have them. In a six person office. The cars are only going to get better in the coming years.

tifighter

@qbrozen what year was yours Q? I forget.

Michaell

My understanding is that the new Chevrolet Bolt will have a 200 mile range ... that would work for me, assuming I could reclaim my garage and get a charger installed.

driver100

abacomike said:

driver100 said:

Does anyone know how to buy a good Pickleball Paddle?

I was checking them out on amazon and I can get one with 4 out of 5 stars for about $35 to $40. Anything cheaper has less than 4 stars.
To get one with 5 stars they run about $60 and go up to $200. I don't mind spending the extra amount...$60 instead of $35 if it makes a big enough difference, considering I am just a beginner.https://youtu.be/qmYF67dqNaQ

Using the Driver Amortization Method the difference in price over 5 years works out to $5 a year or 42 cents a month.

Maybe if I knew what a Pickleball Paddle was, I could help. 

You of all people should know. It is the fastest growing sport in America and has become the game of choice for seniors especially in Florida.

See the clip from NBC News

Picleball - Fastest Growing Sport in America

https://youtu.be/qmYF67dqNaQ

https://youtu.be/qmYF67dqNaQ

driver100

tifighter said:

I play a lot of pickleball. A Champion Graphite is a good paddle to invest in and use as you learn the game. Midweight. Eventually you may move to something else, but it is a good place to start. It is the standard, really.

Excellent info Ti..........just to be clear will any graphite paddle good or the brand name Champion?

abacomike

Driver, I swear I never heard of it.  Maybe I'm just too young to have heard of it - compared to many folks around here, I'm still a kid! 

driver100

qbrozen said:

Yes, life with the Leaf was pretty miserable for us. I could get 100 miles in absolutely perfect conditions and driving it like I was afraid it would break. Forget any highway use, climate control, or spirited driving if you had to worry about range. And, yeah, you could preheat the car as long as you were plugged in. What about the return trip home, though? Yup, I found that out the hard way, freezing my butt off for 60 minutes (because I had to drive real slow and add 20 mins to my commute).

Driving like a normal person, I would get about 75-80 miles in nice weather and 60-65 if temps were in the 30s.

And, what if it is a hot or very cold day and you get caught in one of these two hour traffic accidents......like the detour on I-75? Those seem to happen a lot these days.

tifighter

driver100 said:

tifighter said:

I play a lot of pickleball. A Champion Graphite is a good paddle to invest in and use as you learn the game. Midweight. Eventually you may move to something else, but it is a good place to start. It is the standard, really.

Excellent info Ti..........just to be clear will any graphite paddle good or the brand name Champion?

First one on this list is what I had in mind. They only call it vintage because it looks like it comes in some new colors.

explorerx4

My AC unit has a 17 SEER rating(outside on the ground unit). When I shopping around, one the contractors said don't go above 16, anything higher still have bugs.
Sure enough, it stopped working one time(froze up) and another time the installing company called me and asked if they could replace the refrigerant with an updated formulation.
I had to sign a paper saying that it was replaced, although there was no cost to me.

stickguy

Pickleball looks like something that would be fun for me and my wife. though I have never heard of anyplace near here to play it.

Mr_Shiftright

Michaell said:

stickguy said:

Yes. Drops if real cold or hot. And when you use accessories.

So if I prefer to ride in miserable silence, I can get that kind of range.

No, thanks.

Miserable cold silence actually.

driver100

abacomike said:

Driver, I swear I never heard of it.  Maybe I'm just too young to have heard of it - compared to many folks around here, I'm still a kid! 

Actually, seniors are the main people taking it up, but young people are taking it up too, and the games can get pretty exciting to watch....and you can play at almost any skill level.

Many senior complexes now build them and offer it because it is in demand. It is what i think of as very sociable and friendly,....... experienced players are glad to help new players, there are lots of starter courses available and the players get to know each other as regualars keep showing up.

I bet it is played within a mile of your complex somewhere.......go and watch...it can be fun. Young people seem to get addicted to it....the A-Team I watched yesterday played from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and they do that 3 or 4 times a week!