Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

isellhondas

sda said:

stickguy said:

my Hondas (Accord and Odyssey) both had lousy OEM batteries that did not last all that long (4 years max, one might have been 3).

one problem is that sometimes it is not a gradual fade out that gets you (so you get warning). Rather, something just lets go internally (I guess a cell failing) and you go from good to dead like flipping a switch. No real way to predict that.

That has been my experience as well. Battery lasted 4 years on the Civic and 3 on the Accord. No warning at all with the Civic. Started up just fine and went to Publix. Came back less than 10 min later and it hardly made a clicking noise when I tried to start it. I hadn't started the Accord for about 3 days and it cranked slowly, started, stalled (a first) and then was completely dead. I had to pry the cover near the shifter off so I could stick a key and manually override the Park lock out to get the car in neutral. I drafted my wife to help push it out of the garage so I could position the Pilot to jump it off. Fun times!

I sold our next door neighbors a new Accord in 1996 and the original battery lasted 13 years! that has GOT to be a record!

jmonroe

henryn said:

Car batteries have 6 cells (wet cell battery == 2 volts per cell, versus dry cell battery == 1.5 volts per cell).

In order to get 12 volts, the 6 cells have to be connected in series. And the internal connectors seem to be what fails. Going back a number of years, the chemicals in the battery would go bad or wear out or "get sulfated" or whatever. But these days, batteries die when the internal connectors between cells give out. Which is why they tend to die suddenly, without giving any warning.

At least that's what I have read. Don't we have any electrical engineers in here who can give us the skinny? Or is it all lawyers and retired judges and CPA's and book sellers and car salesmen?

Well, I have an old piece of paper that says EE and I think @PF_Flyer said he has one too.

I'll go first:

That bit about the internal connections for the individual cells is probably true when a battery just up and dies but Mrs. j's XG 350 didn't start then it did start after it was jumped and it started many times for about 2 weeks. It then failed again then I had it tested a second time and it tested OK that time too, but that time I wised up and just bought a new battery because it was getting old and was wearing out.

Maybe my piece of paper is from the wrong school. Now it's @PF_Flyer's turn.

jmonroe

jmonroe

isellhondas said:

sda said:

stickguy said:

my Hondas (Accord and Odyssey) both had lousy OEM batteries that did not last all that long (4 years max, one might have been 3).

one problem is that sometimes it is not a gradual fade out that gets you (so you get warning). Rather, something just lets go internally (I guess a cell failing) and you go from good to dead like flipping a switch. No real way to predict that.

That has been my experience as well. Battery lasted 4 years on the Civic and 3 on the Accord. No warning at all with the Civic. Started up just fine and went to Publix. Came back less than 10 min later and it hardly made a clicking noise when I tried to start it. I hadn't started the Accord for about 3 days and it cranked slowly, started, stalled (a first) and then was completely dead. I had to pry the cover near the shifter off so I could stick a key and manually override the Park lock out to get the car in neutral. I drafted my wife to help push it out of the garage so I could position the Pilot to jump it off. Fun times!

I sold our next door neighbors a new Accord in 1996 and the original battery lasted 13 years! that has GOT to be a record!

My experience is that OEM batteries are better than aftermarket batteries.

My first car, a 1956 Chevy that I got used in 1961, had a 6 volt Delco battery that was literally tortured and was still in the car in 1963 when I sold it.

That is a looooong story. Nobody would read all of that so I'm not going to even try. I get tired of just thinking about what that battery went through.

jmonroe

ab348

henryn said:

I just purchased, about 2 weeks ago, a used 2016 Chrysler Town and Country. And I only received one key. So I do some reading in various places, the dealer wants about $300 for a new key with programming. So I look on yelp for "auto locksmith". One wants $260, another one won't give me a quote until he comes out to my house for $20 service charge, and the third one never returns my call.

Next step, look on ebay and amazon. Keys (complete programmable key fob) costs $10 out of China, or about $40 from here in the USA, reputable seller, with 99% + favorable feedback. Back to the forums, more reading, one person says they bought a key on Ebay, the dealer programmed it for $50. Another person with same experience, dealer charged him $75.

Good enough, I order the key, comes in, looks good, start calling dealerships. The 3 closest Mopar dealers all want exactly the same amount, $165. I'm assuming the book shows one hour, and they are all charging $165 per flat rate hour.

I would expect that it takes about 60 seconds to program the key, and maybe 5 minutes total by the time you get out the "tool" and set it up.

I'm confused why the dealer who presumably lost the second key won't pay to replace and reprogram it.

sda

ab348 said:

henryn said:

I just purchased, about 2 weeks ago, a used 2016 Chrysler Town and Country. And I only received one key. So I do some reading in various places, the dealer wants about $300 for a new key with programming. So I look on yelp for "auto locksmith". One wants $260, another one won't give me a quote until he comes out to my house for $20 service charge, and the third one never returns my call.

Next step, look on ebay and amazon. Keys (complete programmable key fob) costs $10 out of China, or about $40 from here in the USA, reputable seller, with 99% + favorable feedback. Back to the forums, more reading, one person says they bought a key on Ebay, the dealer programmed it for $50. Another person with same experience, dealer charged him $75.

Good enough, I order the key, comes in, looks good, start calling dealerships. The 3 closest Mopar dealers all want exactly the same amount, $165. I'm assuming the book shows one hour, and they are all charging $165 per flat rate hour.

I would expect that it takes about 60 seconds to program the key, and maybe 5 minutes total by the time you get out the "tool" and set it up.

I'm confused why the dealer who presumably lost the second key won't pay to replace and reprogram it.

I bet that dealer will give henryn the line, they didn't make any money off the deal...so sorry

jmonroe

ab348 said:

henryn said:

I just purchased, about 2 weeks ago, a used 2016 Chrysler Town and Country. And I only received one key. So I do some reading in various places, the dealer wants about $300 for a new key with programming. So I look on yelp for "auto locksmith". One wants $260, another one won't give me a quote until he comes out to my house for $20 service charge, and the third one never returns my call.

Next step, look on ebay and amazon. Keys (complete programmable key fob) costs $10 out of China, or about $40 from here in the USA, reputable seller, with 99% + favorable feedback. Back to the forums, more reading, one person says they bought a key on Ebay, the dealer programmed it for $50. Another person with same experience, dealer charged him $75.

Good enough, I order the key, comes in, looks good, start calling dealerships. The 3 closest Mopar dealers all want exactly the same amount, $165. I'm assuming the book shows one hour, and they are all charging $165 per flat rate hour.

I would expect that it takes about 60 seconds to program the key, and maybe 5 minutes total by the time you get out the "tool" and set it up.

I'm confused why the dealer who presumably lost the second key won't pay to replace and reprogram it.

I'm not Hank but let me guess. The dealer did not lose the key. The car was a trade in or a demo, or (insert here) and only had one key and was sold "as is". Hank bought it like that so now he has to get one on his dime.

Hopefully he paid a price that reflected only having one key.

jmonroe

graphicguy

I had a '98 Toyota 4Runner I bought new. Battery was still strong when I sold it in '04. That's a vehicle I wished I would have kept. Those things don't die and could (and did) go anywhere, on any sort of road.

imidazol97

henryn said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

Good enough, I order the key, comes in, looks good, start calling dealerships. The 3 closest Mopar dealers all want exactly the same amount, $165. I'm assuming the book shows one hour, and they are all charging $165 per flat rate hour.

Check with Lowes. They started selling keys with a chip. BUT Lowes system, from what one guy explained, is that it copies the info in the chip inside your working key and clones the new key. I don't recall the price. You might return your keys if they haven't been cut, if the Lowes setup works for you. I assume the keys are normal rather than the squiggle cut groove switchblade type key.

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=duplicate+keys+for+cars

qbrozen

imidazol97 said:

Check with Lowes. They started selling keys with a chip. BUT Lowes system, from what one guy explained, is that it copies the info in the chip inside your working key and clones the new key. I don't recall the price. You might return your keys if they haven't been cut, if the Lowes setup works for you. I assume the keys are normal rather than the squiggle cut groove switchblade type key.

the keys are definitely not normal.

explorerx4

@abacomike,
Maybe that voice in your car is Erich Hartmann. Just tell the car you're his wingman and you will be well taken care of.

On the subject of batteries, I buy Motorcraft 100 month batteries for my Mustang. It sits from Oct-Nov through May-June. The last one I had lasted 8 years before I replaced it.
I usually start the car one time during the winter and put a trickle charger on it the day before I do that to charge it all the way up.

jwm40517

OEM battery on 2009 Odyssey died without warning at 3 years and AAA replacement died in 3 years.
OEM battery in 2007 Mercury GM died this past summer at about 70K miles.

jmonroe

jwm40517 said:

OEM battery on 2009 Odyssey died without warning at 3 years and AAA replacement died in 3 years.
OEM battery in 2007 Mercury GM died this past summer at about 70K miles.

Maybe I should have said old GM Delco batteries were the best I have ever owned.

As for warm/hot climates, when I moved to SC in '92 the heat killed the rectifier bridge in my '80 Park Ave alternator then 2 months later it killed the rectifier bridge in my (really Son #1's) '74 Omega. Then a few batteries failed too. Like some one said, "warm/hot climates kill more batteries than cold weather".

I can vouch for that.

jmonroe

henryn

jmonroe said:

ab348 said:

henryn said:

I just purchased, about 2 weeks ago, a used 2016 Chrysler Town and Country. And I only received one key. So I do some reading in various places, the dealer wants about $300 for a new key with programming. So I look on yelp for "auto locksmith". One wants $260, another one won't give me a quote until he comes out to my house for $20 service charge, and the third one never returns my call.

Next step, look on ebay and amazon. Keys (complete programmable key fob) costs $10 out of China, or about $40 from here in the USA, reputable seller, with 99% + favorable feedback. Back to the forums, more reading, one person says they bought a key on Ebay, the dealer programmed it for $50. Another person with same experience, dealer charged him $75.

Good enough, I order the key, comes in, looks good, start calling dealerships. The 3 closest Mopar dealers all want exactly the same amount, $165. I'm assuming the book shows one hour, and they are all charging $165 per flat rate hour.

I would expect that it takes about 60 seconds to program the key, and maybe 5 minutes total by the time you get out the "tool" and set it up.

I'm confused why the dealer who presumably lost the second key won't pay to replace and reprogram it.

I'm not Hank but let me guess. The dealer did not lose the key. The car was a trade in or a demo, or (insert here) and only had one key and was sold "as is". Hank bought it like that so now he has to get one on his dime.

Hopefully he paid a price that reflected only having one key.

jmonroe

The 2016 Chrysler Town and Country was an Enterprise rental vehicle in a previous life. Sold to me by a Mazda dealer, who almost certainly bought it at auction. And yes, the negotiated price was "as is", which did not greatly concern me as it is still under the bumper to bumper factory warranty. When I took delivery, after paying and signing all paperwork, then they told me they couldn't find the second key. Somehow I wasn't expecting it to cost me more than $200, but ...

I need to become friends with a locksmith or something... Or maybe I could just buy the tool or apparatus that does the programming, I would be willing to bet that it is not a stand alone device, but something that you run from a computer, most likely through a USB port.

tjc78

 Here is what I would do.  Sign up for a Chrysler forum (there must be one) maybe one of the people there can steer you in the right direction.  

I know on Fords if you had one key you could program others yourself.  A long convoluted process but could be done. 

jwm40517

Had an unusual experience with the 09 Odyssey Summer 2015. While driving near home it started running very rough and CEL came on. Drove straight to dealer and left it. My wife got a call the next day and said that they would need it a few days and would be replacing rings on back half of engine. SAY WHAT? Rings?

I spoke with them and they said there was a TSB about rings, when the ring gaps lined up perfectly oil would go to the combustion chamber. They rebuilt half the engine. Asked if I wanted new timing belt, water pump, plugs, etc "while they were in there". Car had 88K, so said yes.

No charge for the re ring job, but when I got the bill it included labor for water pump, timing belt, coolant, oil change and more. I pointed out they had to do all that labor for the rebuild anyway and were collecting from Honda on that labor, they just put my new parts back instead of the old ones-I hope. After some back and forth several hundred dollars on the bill went away.

They also replaced fuel filter on recall at same time . It was removed from inside rear of van. When I picked it up it had greasy black footprints all over the floor and hand prints on interior panels. Entire perimeter around hood and fenders was greasy. I asked service writer if that was normal look after repair. He replied that it was not and kept it another day for a really good detail in and out. Has worked OK since then.

driver100

JMonroe, you kept warning me not to read your novel of a post so I thought you must have said something bad about me in it....so I read it all.

I said the same thing....in 10 words, 5 or 6 years maximum. Why push it? What's a battery cost anyway......$80 or so, 6 years $12 a year, why push it and make it $8 a year and be late for work or getting to the airport?

driver100

Mr_Shiftright said:

abacomike said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

Depends on the manufacturer. I know BMW and Mercedes requires computerized battery registration, which is another clever way of milking you for another $100 bucks or so, even though the procedure takes about as much time as drinking a cup of coffee.

Good grief! You mean I have to go through a procedure to have a new battery put in my car? I'm done with procedures - if the battery dies, it dies - may it rest in peace - I'm not going to go through a procedure with the darn thing!

You don't really have much choice in the matter I'm afraid.

The chances of Mike keeping a car for 5 years and replacing a battery are about "zero".

driver100

What you say is correct (computer shuts down everything at a given drop in total voltage) but a tester that does not check each cell individually cannot cart blanche say a cell is bad. It is more likely to be degradation of ALL cells on an old/older battery.

jmonroe

That was great....50 words or less

tjc78

Well it certainly seems as if OEM batteries are hit or miss.  I've gotten over 10 on an OEM Motorcraft and on the other side of the coin our 2008 Elantra was shot by 3 years with no warning.  

@driver100, that wasn't too many words was it?  

abacomike

driver100 said:

Depends on the manufacturer. I know BMW and Mercedes requires computerized battery registration, which is another clever way of milking you for another $100 bucks or so, even though the procedure takes about as much time as drinking a cup of coffee.

Good grief! You mean I have to go through a procedure to have a new battery put in my car? I'm done with procedures - if the battery dies, it dies - may it rest in peace - I'm not going to go through a procedure with the darn thing!

You don't really have much choice in the matter I'm afraid.

The chances of Mike keeping a car for 5 years and replacing a battery are about "zero".

I agree - the odds of winning the Powerball Lottery are better than my keeping a car for 5 years.  So, driver, run out and buy a bunch of lottery tickets - better odds now!!!

stickguy

driver100 said:

JMonroe, you kept warning me not to read your novel of a post so I thought you must have said something bad about me in it....so I read it all.

I said the same thing....in 10 words, 5 or 6 years maximum. Why push it? What's a battery cost anyway......$80 or so, 6 years $12 a year, why push it and make it $8 a year and be late for work or getting to the airport?

man, he played you like a fish!

imidazol97

Our 93 leSabre battery barely lasted 3 years. It was a showroom floor model and people
played with the seats and windows. Drain. Then recharged. Repeat. Short life.

(28 words.
Dr. Brown, Honors English, BSU. Say it in as few words as possible.)

jmonroe

tjc78 said:

Well it certainly seems as if OEM batteries are hit or miss.  I've gotten over 10 on an OEM Motorcraft and on the other side of the coin our 2008 Elantra was shot by 3 years with no warning.  

@driver100, that wasn't too many words was it?  

No new battery should go bad in 3 years. I doubt that you got a used battery in a new car so please tell me that they did not charge you for the replacement, PLEASE. :@

jmonroe

jmonroe

stickguy said:

driver100 said:

JMonroe, you kept warning me not to read your novel of a post so I thought you must have said something bad about me in it....so I read it all.

I said the same thing....in 10 words, 5 or 6 years maximum. Why push it? What's a battery cost anyway......$80 or so, 6 years $12 a year, why push it and make it $8 a year and be late for work or getting to the airport?

man, he played you like a fish!

You understand me. Why does @driver100 have the problem?

jmonroe

ab348

henryn said:

The 2016 Chrysler Town and Country was an Enterprise rental vehicle in a previous life. Sold to me by a Mazda dealer, who almost certainly bought it at auction. And yes, the negotiated price was "as is", which did not greatly concern me as it is still under the bumper to bumper factory warranty. When I took delivery, after paying and signing all paperwork, then they told me they couldn't find the second key. Somehow I wasn't expecting it to cost me more than $200, but ...

Yes, I remember that from the story of the purchase. I guess the wording led me to believe the dealer had a second key and couldn't find it.

tjc78

jmonroe said:

Well it certainly seems as if OEM batteries are hit or miss.  I've gotten over 10 on an OEM Motorcraft and on the other side of the coin our 2008 Elantra was shot by 3 years with no warning.  

@driver100, that wasn't too many words was it?  

No new battery should go bad in 3 years. I doubt that you got a used battery in a new car so please tell me that they did not charge you for the replacement, PLEASE. :@ jmonroe

Honestly I don't know.  It died at our work, had a co worker drive me to the store and installed it right there using tools borrowed from the maintenance shop.  

IIRC it was just out of the 3 year bumper to bumper.  

I can't remember specifics but during my whole Genesis electrical nightmare they replaced that battery under warranty (which wasn't the cause, which I could have told them).  

Im hoping I don't have any battery issues with the new Elantra.  

murphydog

hmm...brief Internet search shows my battery (2008 C350) is north of $175??? Never paid that much for a typical car battery. Will have to dig deeper after the little one goes to sleep.


Edit...Interstate replacement is $191. Neighbor say to ask for a "blem" (blemished) as they are as much as 50% off....will call tomorrow and see if such a unicorn actually exists....

driver100

abacomike said:

driver100 said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

abacomike said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

Depends on the manufacturer. I know BMW and Mercedes requires computerized battery registration, which is another clever way of milking you for another $100 bucks or so, even though the procedure takes about as much time as drinking a cup of coffee.

Good grief! You mean I have to go through a procedure to have a new battery put in my car? I'm done with procedures - if the battery dies, it dies - may it rest in peace - I'm not going to go through a procedure with the darn thing!

You don't really have much choice in the matter I'm afraid.

The chances of Mike keeping a car for 5 years and replacing a battery are about "zero".

I agree - the odds of winning the Powerball Lottery are better than my keeping a car for 5 years.  So, driver, run out and buy a bunch of lottery tickets - better odds now!!!

I hear there is a better chance of being struck by lightening than winning the lottery....with my luck, I'd getting the lightening! I don't even buy tickets anymore.

driver100

stickguy said:

driver100 said:

JMonroe, you kept warning me not to read your novel of a post so I thought you must have said something bad about me in it....so I read it all.

I said the same thing....in 10 words, 5 or 6 years maximum. Why push it? What's a battery cost anyway......$80 or so, 6 years $12 a year, why push it and make it $8 a year and be late for work or getting to the airport?

man, he played you like a fish!

I know, 12 minutes of my life I will never get back

oldfarmer50

jmonroe said:

imidazol97 said:

jmonroe said:

There have been several comments about batteries, now it's my turn. I'm not arguing with you about having your battery tested at an auto parts store because that can be beneficial but it is not foolproof.

Now my story: (@driver100, this may be beyond your patience for post reading so now is a good time to scroll)
jmonroe

I read it all. I agree with your strategy of buying Autozones best battery because of the 3/3 guarantee and they were made by Johnson Controls. The proof of purchase is kept in their computer by phone number. So no looking up receipts that get lost. And they put your battery in for you, in most cases.

Each cell produces 2.1 v. So if one cell shorts, the voltage drops from 12.6 nominal voltage to 10.5 e.g.. A single cell can short via sulfation which is bridging of the two types of plates by a whisker or crystal of material built up as the battery recharges. That whisker can break and the cell act perfectly normal again. However, the sulfation results in a 10.5 volt battery minus any drop in voltage from the other 5 cells due to age or undercharge. It should not give a totally dead battery. The interior light should glow for example. But some computers won't operate below a certain voltage so the control that allows the starter motor relay to operate may not work because the battery voltage is low. Hence no sounds. But there should be some things that operate.

What you say is correct (computer shuts down everything at a given drop in total voltage) but a tester that does not check each cell individually cannot cart blanche say a cell is bad. It is more likely to be degradation of ALL cells on an old/older battery.

jmonroe

On our buses if the alternator isn't charging above 12 volts the transmission won't shift. Computer I guess.

Battery on Mitsu died at 5 years. Good one minute, totally dead the next.

Cheapo battery that came with the Lincoln lasted 3 years. Guy at the shop said it was about half the size the car needed. He wondered how the car EVER started.

Battery in the PT has lasted 8 years. Always starts like it's weak but last year I asked my mechanic to replace it and he refused. Said it's still fine.

Out on a trip today I came across a Mustang accident. Looked like some guy was trying to impress his son and things got out of hand. The Mustang looked very similar to the one that Mako1a owned, white with a stripe down the rocker. Car was up on an embankment on the far side of a ditch. Side was all scratched up and covered in mud. Father looked embarrassed but I bet the kid is bragging about what a wild man his dad is at school tomorrow.

henryn

ab348 said:

henryn said:

The 2016 Chrysler Town and Country was an Enterprise rental vehicle in a previous life. Sold to me by a Mazda dealer, who almost certainly bought it at auction. And yes, the negotiated price was "as is", which did not greatly concern me as it is still under the bumper to bumper factory warranty. When I took delivery, after paying and signing all paperwork, then they told me they couldn't find the second key. Somehow I wasn't expecting it to cost me more than $200, but ...

Yes, I remember that from the story of the purchase. I guess the wording led me to believe the dealer had a second key and couldn't find it.

I shortened the story when retelling. Yes, they first told me they couldn't find the second key. Three days later the story changed to they didn't have a second key. No point in trying to do battle when you're not likely to win, so I let it go.

jmonroe

driver100 said:

stickguy said:

driver100 said:

JMonroe, you kept warning me not to read your novel of a post so I thought you must have said something bad about me in it....so I read it all.

I said the same thing....in 10 words, 5 or 6 years maximum. Why push it? What's a battery cost anyway......$80 or so, 6 years $12 a year, why push it and make it $8 a year and be late for work or getting to the airport?

man, he played you like a fish!

I know, 12 minutes of my life I will never get back

Man, for a guy that sold books you sure are a slow reader. It must have taken you 2 weeks to make a sale for some books if you had to give a synopsis to customers. Maybe we should put a few pics in here to save you time (you know, a picture is worth...).

Got an idea for you. If you want that 12 minutes back, don't read a few posts. Mine and others, then you'll be even but you won't be as smart not getting info from the guys in here.

jmonroe

driver100

henryn said:

ab348 said:

henryn said:

The 2016 Chrysler Town and Country was an Enterprise rental vehicle in a previous life. Sold to me by a Mazda dealer, who almost certainly bought it at auction. And yes, the negotiated price was "as is", which did not greatly concern me as it is still under the bumper to bumper factory warranty. When I took delivery, after paying and signing all paperwork, then they told me they couldn't find the second key. Somehow I wasn't expecting it to cost me more than $200, but ...

Yes, I remember that from the story of the purchase. I guess the wording led me to believe the dealer had a second key and couldn't find it.

I shortened the story when retelling. Yes, they first told me they couldn't find the second key. Three days later the story changed to they didn't have a second key. No point in trying to do battle when you're not likely to win, so I let it go.

That reminds me when I traded in the 2013 Passat...which was in mint condition, 6k miles, they asked me a few times if we had 2 keys. I kept wondering, who would trade in a car with one key? It doesn't say much for the previous owner if he drives around with only one key.

Before signing to complete the deal I was also asked to hand over....BOTH keys. I guess that dealership has had problems before.

driver100

jmonroe said:

driver100 said:

stickguy said:

driver100 said:

JMonroe, you kept warning me not to read your novel of a post so I thought you must have said something bad about me in it....so I read it all.

I said the same thing....in 10 words, 5 or 6 years maximum. Why push it? What's a battery cost anyway......$80 or so, 6 years $12 a year, why push it and make it $8 a year and be late for work or getting to the airport?

man, he played you like a fish!

I know, 12 minutes of my life I will never get back

Man, for a guy that sold books you sure are a slow reader. It must have taken you 2 weeks to make a sale for some books if you had to give a synopsis to customers. Maybe we should put a few pics in here to save you time (you know, a picture is worth...).

Got an idea for you. If you want that 12 minutes back, don't read a few posts. Mine and others, then you'll be even but you won't be as smart not getting info from the guys in here.

jmonroe

lol but....I think my one skill I have is marketing (plus I know a lot about the book business). One thing I learned when we sent advertising to buyers or store managers....Make it brief and make it with punch to grab them - the shorter it is the more chance they will read it.

I am passing this valuable piece of information on to all, especially my Burgh friend (free btw)

suydam

driver100 said:

henryn said:

ab348 said:

henryn said:

The 2016 Chrysler Town and Country was an Enterprise rental vehicle in a previous life. Sold to me by a Mazda dealer, who almost certainly bought it at auction. And yes, the negotiated price was "as is", which did not greatly concern me as it is still under the bumper to bumper factory warranty. When I took delivery, after paying and signing all paperwork, then they told me they couldn't find the second key. Somehow I wasn't expecting it to cost me more than $200, but ...

Yes, I remember that from the story of the purchase. I guess the wording led me to believe the dealer had a second key and couldn't find it.

I shortened the story when retelling. Yes, they first told me they couldn't find the second key. Three days later the story changed to they didn't have a second key. No point in trying to do battle when you're not likely to win, so I let it go.

That reminds me when I traded in the 2013 Passat...which was in mint condition, 6k miles, they asked me a few times if we had 2 keys. I kept wondering, who would trade in a car with one key? It doesn't say much for the previous owner if he drives around with only one key.

Before signing to complete the deal I was also asked to hand over....BOTH keys. I guess that dealership has had problems before.

People who lost a key, that's who. We drove our '01 Maxima for 7 years with only one key between us. Of course we sold it privately so the buyer knew there was only one key.

andres3

suydam said:

driver100 said:

henryn said:

ab348 said:

henryn said:

The 2016 Chrysler Town and Country was an Enterprise rental vehicle in a previous life. Sold to me by a Mazda dealer, who almost certainly bought it at auction. And yes, the negotiated price was "as is", which did not greatly concern me as it is still under the bumper to bumper factory warranty. When I took delivery, after paying and signing all paperwork, then they told me they couldn't find the second key. Somehow I wasn't expecting it to cost me more than $200, but ...

Yes, I remember that from the story of the purchase. I guess the wording led me to believe the dealer had a second key and couldn't find it.

I shortened the story when retelling. Yes, they first told me they couldn't find the second key. Three days later the story changed to they didn't have a second key. No point in trying to do battle when you're not likely to win, so I let it go.

That reminds me when I traded in the 2013 Passat...which was in mint condition, 6k miles, they asked me a few times if we had 2 keys. I kept wondering, who would trade in a car with one key? It doesn't say much for the previous owner if he drives around with only one key.

Before signing to complete the deal I was also asked to hand over....BOTH keys. I guess that dealership has had problems before.

People who lost a key, that's who. We drove our '01 Maxima for 7 years with only one key between us. Of course we sold it privately so the buyer knew there was only one key.

That's a huge risk isn't it? I mean, if you don't replace the 2nd key when you are down to your last one, what happens if your other key fails or gets lost? Marooned is what happens right? And then a huge locksmith re-key the entire car bill?

stickguy

Stranded yes. But I could go to dealer with my key code and get a replacement on the spot.

henryn

Well, I have a second key. It looks just like the original (only of course, brand new). It just isn't programmed!

I wonder if they would check that if I tried to slip it by them on a trade in? (smile)

Just kidding, of course, I don't operate like that. And I am going to find some way to get this new key programmed, sh__ happens, as they say. I washed the key fob for the Volkswagen TDI shortly after I bought the car last August. As in, it went through the washing machine in the pocket of my jeans. Which made me very glad that I had a backup. The original did work again after I took it apart, blew it dry with compressed air, replaced the battery, and followed the procedure to reprogram it.

Most manufacturers allow you to reprogram a key fob. I have done so with GM cars (Chevy and Cadillac), and with that Volkswagen. With Chrysler, reprogramming is possible for 2010 and older, but not with 2011 and newer. At least, that's what I have read in the forums. And the stealerships really seem to be trying to take advantage of that.

PF_Flyer

Good day to exercise the winter driving skills today. Traction control and ABS got a workout on the way to the gym. I even got to get the rear end to start to swap with the front in the grocery store parking lot. Would be a GREAT day to teach someone how to drive

abacomike

PF_Flyer said:

Good day to exercise the winter driving skills today. Traction control and ABS got a workout on the way to the gym. I even got to get the rear end to start to swap with the front in the grocery store parking lot. Would be a GREAT day to teach someone how to drive

Hey, PF, you are a magician - "Now You See Me III" starring PF_Flyer!!!

sda

henryn said:

Well, I have a second key. It looks just like the original (only of course, brand new). It just isn't programmed!

I wonder if they would check that if I tried to slip it by them on a trade in? (smile)

Just kidding, of course, I don't operate like that. And I am going to find some way to get this new key programmed, sh__ happens, as they say. I washed the key fob for the Volkswagen TDI shortly after I bought the car last August. As in, it went through the washing machine in the pocket of my jeans. Which made me very glad that I had a backup. The original did work again after I took it apart, blew it dry with compressed air, replaced the battery, and followed the procedure to reprogram it.

Most manufacturers allow you to reprogram a key fob. I have done so with GM cars (Chevy and Cadillac), and with that Volkswagen. With Chrysler, reprogramming is possible for 2010 and older, but not with 2011 and newer. At least, that's what I have read in the forums. And the stealerships really seem to be trying to take advantage of that.

Have you had the blade of the key cut to match the original? Some keys look so specialized I imagine it is a dealer only process $$$.

graphicguy

Well....this is disappointing. Acura seems lost......

http://www.vtec.net/news/news-item?news_item_id=1304813

driver100

suydam said:

driver100 said:

henryn said:

ab348 said:

henryn said:

The 2016 Chrysler Town and Country was an Enterprise rental vehicle in a previous life. Sold to me by a Mazda dealer, who almost certainly bought it at auction. And yes, the negotiated price was "as is", which did not greatly concern me as it is still under the bumper to bumper factory warranty. When I took delivery, after paying and signing all paperwork, then they told me they couldn't find the second key. Somehow I wasn't expecting it to cost me more than $200, but ...

Yes, I remember that from the story of the purchase. I guess the wording led me to believe the dealer had a second key and couldn't find it.

I shortened the story when retelling. Yes, they first told me they couldn't find the second key. Three days later the story changed to they didn't have a second key. No point in trying to do battle when you're not likely to win, so I let it go.

That reminds me when I traded in the 2013 Passat...which was in mint condition, 6k miles, they asked me a few times if we had 2 keys. I kept wondering, who would trade in a car with one key? It doesn't say much for the previous owner if he drives around with only one key.

Before signing to complete the deal I was also asked to hand over....BOTH keys. I guess that dealership has had problems before.

People who lost a key, that's who. We drove our '01 Maxima for 7 years with only one key between us. Of course we sold it privately so the buyer knew there was only one key.

Can't find an exact price to duplicate a 2001 Maxima key, but I am finding $120 to $200. You would drive for 7 years and share one key? Fortunately you didn't lose your one key suydam or it would probably cost you a lot more than $200.

tjc78

graphicguy said:

Well....this is disappointing. Acura seems lost......

http://www.vtec.net/news/news-item?news_item_id=1304813

Almost looks like a hatchback. Interesting for sure. I don't quite understand it is like they are being different just to be different.

stickguy

doesn't look that bad to me. similar to current car, just with the style now of a bulkier "hunchback" trunk.

sda

It will be interesting to see how the styling of the new '18 Accord will compare to the revised '18 TLX. Earlier today when I was returning to my car (Accord) at a WalMart there was a charcoal gray TLX parked one car away. As much as I want to like the TLX, the styling doesn't inspire me. The TLX looked no sportier or dynamic than the Accord, which is kind of bland and conservative.

henryn

sda said:

henryn said:

Well, I have a second key. It looks just like the original (only of course, brand new). It just isn't programmed!

I wonder if they would check that if I tried to slip it by them on a trade in? (smile)

Just kidding, of course, I don't operate like that. And I am going to find some way to get this new key programmed, sh__ happens, as they say. I washed the key fob for the Volkswagen TDI shortly after I bought the car last August. As in, it went through the washing machine in the pocket of my jeans. Which made me very glad that I had a backup. The original did work again after I took it apart, blew it dry with compressed air, replaced the battery, and followed the procedure to reprogram it.

Most manufacturers allow you to reprogram a key fob. I have done so with GM cars (Chevy and Cadillac), and with that Volkswagen. With Chrysler, reprogramming is possible for 2010 and older, but not with 2011 and newer. At least, that's what I have read in the forums. And the stealerships really seem to be trying to take advantage of that.

Have you had the blade of the key cut to match the original? Some keys look so specialized I imagine it is a dealer only process $$$.

No, I have not yet had the "emergency key" cut. I don't expect that part to be a problem. Once I find someone to program the fob (or Fobik as it is called), I'm sure they can cut the emergency key at the same time.

andres3

sda said:

It will be interesting to see how the styling of the new '18 Accord will compare to the revised '18 TLX. Earlier today when I was returning to my car (Accord) at a WalMart there was a charcoal gray TLX parked one car away. As much as I want to like the TLX, the styling doesn't inspire me. The TLX looked no sportier or dynamic than the Accord, which is kind of bland and conservative.

I almost shed a tear when I looked at the TLX and didn't see any exhaust. They are hidden, tucked under the car's rear bumper like a scared turtle! The salesman implied Acura wanted to appease the Greenies and make it look like an electric zero emissions car

andres3

I prefer my cars exhausts to look like this vs. Acura's method:

PF_Flyer

abacomike said:

PF_Flyer said:

Good day to exercise the winter driving skills today. Traction control and ABS got a workout on the way to the gym. I even got to get the rear end to start to swap with the front in the grocery store parking lot. Would be a GREAT day to teach someone how to drive

Hey, PF, you are a magician - "Now You See Me III" starring PF_Flyer!!!

I do a bit of magic, true. But today's trick was a little of my baking magic. Pass the cream cheese!