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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr.Shiftright,the drive-shafts I installed looked like somebody made it in the backyard,but all those customers wanted to go the cheapest route.I would not install one on my vehicle, A friend ordered a shaft on line 3 weeks ago and it look like it came from the factory,price I think was about $250.00 plus core,as to the automatic trans fluid deal just found out about it have no clue as to how long it will go before it starts to vibrate again.

  • I also have a 2004 - 545 6 speed. All I can say is that it is just OK. Power is nice but when pushing it, feels like the front wheels are coming off the ground. Lots of small annoying things that I am told are "BMW", so I should like them.
    Have you ever tried to actually put a cup in the cup holder?
    Premium sound system is OK, but if you paid for it you are not allowed to get an IPOD connection or satellite radio because of the navigation system. RDS also can not be hooked up for the same reason. Hard to believe that Yugo and Ford can figure out how to make all this work, but BMW can not.
    I-drive (who designed this thing?) reboots itself on the full moon and first quarter, every other month (actually more frequently than that, but I was trying to be funny.) BMW response, "It needs to reboot itself!" Gee, why didn't I think of that as the technical reason I lose all my addresses and radio stations?
    Warm re-starting can be a challenge. Three times I was told the car was not programmed for the 6 speed transmission and that was the cause. I guess three times, they didn't fix it!
    Cannot keep rims on the car! That's what the dealer tells me. Again, Sport wheels with run-flats. Dealer has tried to resell me new rims at least 3 times saying they are bent. So much for "No maintenance fees for the first 3 years" Not!
    Seriously, the four best features about my 545 6-speed: headlights are truly outstanding; heated steering wheel is the best; Heads-up display is great; Only 2 years left on my lease.
    By then Audi will have brought back the RS-6 and I'll go back to them.
    Good luck!
  • I was scheduled to drive a new 2005 545i tomorrow morning that I put a refundable deposit on. I am reconsidering after your recent comments. My husband has a Mercedes S500 and I was going to get a Mercedes S350, but the 545 that I liked has a sport package with nice rims. The S350 is basic with a few options. We have not had any problems with our S, but I did have previous problems with 2 ML's and an E class. So, I thought maybe BMW had better reliability. I have only read about 5 or 6 pages of this post. Besides the cupholders, are these common issues not unique to your particular car with this series? Any input will be greatly appreciated.
  • bmwnabmwna Posts: 32
    I'm with BMW of North America, LLC. I've passed this message on to a BMW NA Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon.

    BMW NA Customer Relations
  • I have a 2000 540i automatic with 70k miles. It goes extremely well but has recently developed a ticking sound which is prominent at idle. The first time this occurred I had the belts replaced and this seemed to cure the problem.

    We did this the second time but it did not help. I read in the latest edition of Bimmer that this could be related to the hydraulic valves. They indicated it was irritating but not in need of repair. Should I have it checked out or just continue as if it is normal?

    This same edition also noted that this particular engine and transmission were prone to problems - anyone taken one over 150k yet?
  • Has anyone had the Pioneer AirWare XM2go car kit installed in a non-DSP, non-CD changer, pre-2003 E39? I want XM, don't want to pull the radio out of the dash and the Pioneer bundle that mounts in the trunk looks like it's cumbersome to use through the existing radio.
  • I have a 2005 545 6 Speed and the only problem I've had, apart from smacking into a pot hole and bending a rim (my own fault), is that the seat design causes loose change to fall out of my pocket when I accelerate. Figures BMW would be good at getting money out of your pocket.

    Yes the cupholders are not very good. You want great cup holders, buy an Accura.

    I have Sirius radio and it works fine. Ditto NAV

    Yes iDrive is counterintuitive but, after a couple of weeks, you don't even think about it; it becomes automatic.

    Love the Park Distance Control. I got this on impulse and now could not live without it. Ditto the heads up display.

    Got the heated seats and steering wheel. Works very well.

    I ran snow tires this past winter and was very impressed with how well the car handled. My previous car was an '86 325eS and that thing was a pig in the snow but BMW engineers have done a great job balancing the 5 Series. Traction Assist and DSC are big helps too.

    I got the sports package and, after banging a few curbs early on, have really come to like the active steering. Very useful in garages and for parallel parking.

    The engineering and handling are magnificent. Plenty of power when you need it yet well behaved at normal speeds. And I'm getting 18 to 19 MPG city and close to 30 MPG on trips.

    I've never owned a smoother, more responsive car. If I had it to do all over again, I wouldn't change a thing.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,659
    The owner's manual and striker plate of my 2000MY 528iA call for tire p[pressures of 29F and 41R. I've never heard of such an extreme differential between front and rear pressures.

    The Independent BMW reseller I bought the car from delivered it with 30F/30R. I find the
    handling and tire wear to be excellent using these settings. Anybody have any input, experience or advice?

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • I'm looking to purchase this car and it has 106K miles on it. It's been well maintained and recently had everything replaced before the warranty lapsed at 100K miles. Can these cars last if taken care of well past 100K miles?

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I believe that if you decode the inflation guide you will see that it recommends something like 29/33 -- Fr/Rr for normal operations and 33/41 -- Fr/Rr for heavy operations (five adults and/or luggage).

    Personally, I ran more like 33/35 in my 530i SP.

    Best Regards,
  • tfc1tfc1 Posts: 3
    Hi Shipo,
    I remember you had a E39. What tire pressure did you use? I have a 2002 530i and the factory recommended 33/41 psi seems (and feels) high.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    I run 29/34 on my 528iA and it seems to work well; just tweak the pressures until it feels right to you.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,659
    Thanks guys, I'll try 30/32 and see how that works. I don't want to put too much pressure in as I frive some pretty rough roads, The one I live on, while not long, isn't paved. :sick:

    Does anyone follow the factory recommenation?

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • I've got a 2003 540i auto. I've noticed that when I go from coasting or braking to acceleration (not pedal to the metal!) it feels as if the transmission drops into 1st from neutral causing a severe knock sound and lurching of the car. I mentioned it to the service shop at 25k. They claimed they couldn't find an issue, but reprogrammed the computer. It seems to be happening more often. Anyone else have this issue? thanks
  • I am having the same issues (I can not call them problems until I get my bill). I just purchased a 2006 525i from a co-worker with 1,000mi on it and just brought it into the dealership this morning. It seems that the rpm are always high and the brakes are SO touchy. This could be related to the brakes, so I will mention it to you (I will not know for sure until the dealership does a diagnostic report to filter activity), but twice while stopped a light pressing down on the brakes, the car jumped. The first time very slightly, but yesterday I almost rear-ended a M3 in front of me. The car literally jumped, while my foot was firmly pressed on the brake. I noticed the brakes being almost too sensitive to the touch and thought that this might have been the reason, a back fire or something because I was pressing too firm. Anyways, I thought I would chime in, I will update when I hear from BMW. You are not the only one!
  • I have had my new '05 525i for exactly one month and already I am taking it back to be serviced a second time. The rear wind deflector on the sunroof is apparently coming out of the tracks and causing a horrific noise when I use the sunroof. Has anyone else had a problem like this? Also, after rolling up a window yesterday, a warning light has come on stating the anti-trap device has been deactivated. Do not know how or why it has come on, but the dealer told me they have to reset it in the shop. Is this a sign of things to come in the future? After spending close to $50K, I am not a happy person right now! Any information you all might have would be greatly appreciated.
  • I did not mention it yesterday, but I was having sunroof issues also, not the same would close and reopen over and over about 5 times before it finally sealed shut. I mentioned it to the service guy yesterday and he told me that the sunroofs are VERY sensitive and I just had to learn how to properly use the button (silly me). BMW still has no clue why my car just lunged forward the other day(s), apparently they are consulting BMW of North America, but I am staying positive. I love my damn near $50k car, it is beautiful and a pure joy to drive. Hopefully things will stay that way. :)
  • My passenger side window will go up and down on its own, as well. Maybe I am not using the buttom properly??? What about a rattle on the left of the driver side, somewhere in the dash? Can't figure that one out either! But it looks as though my 30 day old car will be going to the body shop now...someone did a hit-and-run on my car this afternoon! I suppose I can share my body repair stories as well as my mechanical issues! I hope they find a solution to the "jumping" issue!
  • Not sure if your message was directed to me. If not would you please BMW NA respond to me as well? I've tried working through the dealer and responded to questionnaires from BMW, but no reply. Don't mean to sound bitter, just very disappointed and frustrated. Thanks.
  • jlbljlbl Posts: 1,333
    Maybe your questions have been answered at the dealer… but just in case.

    "My passenger side window will go up and down on its own"
    With the start key on, you should open the window and then keep the opening key pressed for at least 5 seconds after the window is fully opened. Then, do the opposite. Then, open and close the window, once each, as usual. All this should reset the memory of the window engine. You also may ask the dealer to replace the window engine while under warranty.

    "What about a rattle on the left of the driver side, somewhere in the dash?"
    With regards to that, I am not fully sure. I figure it is the noise made by the mechanism that assists the steering. If so, you may hear that noise but bigger when you are out of the stopped car and close to the hood while turnign the steering wheel.

    I hope this helps.

  • Thank you. To date, no one has contacted me yet.
  • bumbiebumbie Posts: 18
    OK, my car is back at the dealership as of this morning 10/3 (and if anyone is having the same problem as me, please let me know, the dealership thinks I am crazy). I posted my problem about the lung, jerk, jump whatever you want to call it last week. Anyways, I was given my car back late Wednesday and was told to drive it in sport mode to see if it still revved up and lunged forward, while at a complete stop. It did not, but I forgot to put into sport mode while waiting in line at the bank and the rpm when up and lunged into the curb dinging my expensive custom rim (fortunately not the car in front of me at the teller in part because I am paranoid and stay about 2 car lengths behind ever since the first two incidents). BMW thinks that when in regular drive, any movement on the brake is causing the car's transmission to think it is time to go and it goes. The problem with this solution is that my foot is firm on the brake. After the first time I have been so cautious about keeping my foot firm on the brake. I guess in sport mode I am in more control and in regular mode the car in more in control. I think that the solution, or what BMW told me was that the computer in the transmission needs to be replaced. On a car with 2500 mi. I am thrilled about this! :(
  • Just picked up my 2006 525Xi and I just love it !!!!!!!!!!!!! Still figuring things out - lol . How do I get rid of the anti trap window message that keeps appearing. I've read the manual but I still can't figure it out.

  • Does anyone have a 2006 BMW 530i with sport package and dunlop tires?
    have you checked your tire pressures?
    the panel says F29:r39, but that pakes that car feel loose, bad steering and braking and acceleration. A local dealer changed it to 34F:35R which was alittle better, but not as good as the other one that i test drove. Anyone has an idea why the dealers set pressures different from the side panel? what is the best pressure for optimum driving/handling performance?
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,659
    There's similar confusion with my 528iA, the panel says 32F/41R but the independent
    I bought it from delivered it with 30 all around and it drove fine. I've tinkered with it a little and now run 32F/35R. I don't know why the factory calls for such high pressures in the rear, perhaps a carry over from the days when Bimmers were pretty "loose" in the back.

    See post #1432 and replies to it for more.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • jlbljlbl Posts: 1,333
    I don't know if this still works in 2006 models, but … why if you try that said in poster #1444?

    "("My passenger side window will go up and down on its own"
    With the start key on, you should open the window and then keep the opening key pressed for at least 5 seconds after the window is fully opened. Then, do the opposite. Then, open and close the window, once each, as usual. All this should reset the memory of the window engine. You also may ask the dealer to replace the window engine while under warranty.)"

  • I just spoke the dealer where i test drove one this weekend that i liked and felt good. the shop forman said they usually go with 34F:38R. hope this may help others too.
  • grios1grios1 Posts: 22
    Just to advise, I had the noise in the dash as well and some type of tapping noise coming from each window in the vehicle. The noise in the dash was actually coming from the steering wheel buttons. They were replaced under warranty. The tapping noise from the windows was coming from the seals. All seals were replaced under warranty.

    One question reference the key fob. Does anyone else need to hold the trunk release button down for approx 2 secs before it will open? I think it should open with just one press of the button. If I hold it down too long the panic alarm goes off.
  • jlbljlbl Posts: 1,333
    "Does anyone else need to hold the trunk release button down for approx 2 secs before it will open?"

    Affirmative. I need to hold it for a short while, may be 2 secs. It is indeed quite frustrating.
  • I actually like the fact that you have to hold down the trunk release button on the key fob for a couple of seconds and then release it before the trunk will open. That goes a LONG way towards preventing accidental opening of the trunk (which can really hurt or cause damage given how fast it pops open!). On my previous car (a Volvo) they did not have a delay on the key fob and it was a nightmare -- I lost count of the number of times I had to get out of the car to close an accidentally opened trunk!
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