Anyone know if this color is available on both the SE and SL or only the SE? If anyone knows of a dealership in NJ with a black exterior/orange interior Max, please post the name of the dealership. My thanks.
It depends on the options and the state your in....New Hampshire has 0 sales tax and Mass has 5%...also, do you have a trade, are you financing etc...in Mass with no trade, a car for around $24,500 would get you out the door for $26k...there are no ads yet for 05's in the Boston newspapers, but $24,500 even for a base model seems quite good....more details please.
Not sure if i'm too late...by the way i think you mean SE not XE. anyway, is the $200 below invoice before the $1,000 rebate? If so, good deal, if not, you can do better.
There is a rebate of $1,000 on the 05 maxima. In the Boston area, you can do much better than that price. Invoice is around $29k...take the $1k off to get to $28k is the most you should pay.
I test drove the 05 SL and just loved it. Got a quote on it with DPP, Sunroof, splashgaurds, mats for total of $29,075 (including frieght, excluding TTL, excluding rebate/financing). Do you think this is a good deal?
By the way, Nissan extended their $1000 Customer Cash back or 2% financing option till 20th November 04. Sweet, huh?
Hi all, I am currently shopping for a new Maxima, and the best price that I got is $29500 for a 2004 SL w/nav, leather, and sunroof. Do you guys think will be ok? To me looks like too much! Maybe I am wrong. Any feedback is welcome. Mike
This weekend is the first weekend that Boston area newspapers started to advertise the 05 maxima...best deal was $4400 off sticker, which (depending on options) is anywhere from $1,000 to $1,500+ or so below invoice. Since there is a $1,000 rebate, it's really more like $500 below at best...still pretty good for so early in the model year.
followup to my post #105....first ad in the Boston area over the weekend quoted a price of $23,500 for a base maxima...which is $4,400 off sticker and around $500 below invoice (after the $1,000 rebate)...1 car available at that price, so figure on paying $500 or so more....or $24,000, so an "out the door" price in Massachusetts after 5% tax, tags, prep, etc...would be around $25,500...for an SE with no options
i know everyone is looking to get a great deal, but you think that $500 below invoice is only "pretty good?" If you consider the markup in some of the other products you buy, for example a $3000 tv would cost the retailer only $1500, for a 100% markup - a markup of 10% on cars isnt all that much. You really should buy cars based on what you can afford per month, or cash, rather than trying to wring the dealership for all its worth. Yes, there are some crummy dealerships out there that are sleezeballs, so you got to be careful - but, if the car falls in what you've budgeted, why continue haggling?
i am a salesperson - but i understand the need to get a good deal. believe me - i haggled on a new tv! i'm just curious though (as i have had folks come in) who get the payment they want, but still want us to lower the selling price. and we arent giving them an 8 year loan to get them there either...im talking about a normal 5 year loan. if i can afford $300 a month, and they can do it for me with what i want to put down, and for the term im looking for on the car i want...why haggle more?! i dont get it.
i've only been a salesperson for a year - not my cup of tea, but it pays the bills (barely!) i just get frustrated when people want all this money off sticker when it just isn't there to give. if a dealer isn't making ANY money - why stay in business?
just some thoughts - sorry if this strays a little off topic. just so you know, we hand away maximas at $500 under invoice.
If 500 under invoice is the going rate, could I go lower on an '04' Maxima sitting on the lot? Also, wondering if I can get 500 minus invoice on a 6 sp '05'. I'd appreciate any input.
I do $500 under invoice as the internet manager - whether you can get that everywhere im not sure. You should be able to get more off on an 04, but unless a dealer is really desperate to move a unit thats last years model, you wont see a HUGE difference. we still have X number of dollars in holdback, and a dealer has to be really really desperate to go beyond what is in holdback. after holdback, the dealer gets nothing. i guess its worth a shot? but dont bet on it. try a high volume store that can make up the loss by selling more cars.
The 500 under your selling for. Does that include the rebate or is the rebate extra savings for that? (I'm just curious because I'm considering buying a Maxima if its possible to get it at 3.5k less than what a TL would cost me).
That price shouldn't include rebate. The rebate is direct to customer. I'm at a similar decision point between TL and Maxima. I think the TL is worth more but probably not $4K.
that price does not include rebate. that would be our discount before any rebates or special financing were to be factored in (obviously that price DOES NOT include, tax, registration, and dealer conveyance) some people like to think that it does...
fortunately for consumers, the prices are great out there! unfortunately for me, i make crap for money :-(
salespeople get screwed left, right, and upside down.
Winsngame...Just curious which way are you leaning toward? I like the TL better but don't want to break the 30k threshold. And the Max seems like the best fit under 30k. If I don't get a deal on the Max I think I'll end up with either an Accord or a TL (I can get a good deal on both its just I'm not sure if a car is worth spending the extra money on).
We seem to have a similar thought process. I'm leaning toward TL as I think it is more refined, quiter, better handling. Very high on the sport factor. But, Maxima's got good qualities too and can be had for 3-4k less right now. I like the looks of both cars. A Maxima loaded except for nav has probably a few more options than TL. Like you I struggle with the thought of paying 30k+. To me value is the price I'm willing to pay for the car. That number is obviously different, but I'm not quite sure how different. As I stand today, I'll probably buy Maxima if I can get '04 for more than 500 under invoice unless I can get a TL for under 30K. I have an internet price of 30,495 for 6sp without Nav. I drove an Accord and it was refined, but pretty bland to drive compared to the others.
I've got a similar price on the TL. I don't think its possible to go lower than what you got on the TL.
I'm gonna wait until the week after christmas (one of the slower car sales weeks. plus potential end of month/quarter/year sales pressure for dealers) and see if I can get a Max with preffered (or maybe sensory package) at more than 500 under invoice + rebate. If I can I'll jump on it.
The one thing that worries me about the Max is the resale value seems significantly lower than the TL. I plan on keeping it forever (or atleast 10 years) so maybe the resale won't matter but it would be nice to know that if I had to sell I could get a good value.
I know $4 grand is a lot, but in addition to the resale (which will make up the cost difference for the first five or six years) also factor in the satisfaction of buying the car you really want.
In addition, the TL has a 4/50 warranty as opposed to the Maxima's 3/36; plus you will receive the benefit of a premium brand dealer for warranty/repair issues as opposed to going to the Nissan store.
I drove a Maxima for 11 years and loved it, but for a few thousand more (providing, of course, that you can afford it) I have to go with the TL in this comparo.
I got my 2005 Maxima (Sensory, spoiler, mudflaps, mats) for $750 under invoice. Also, the car has Traction Control System (TCS), which is a $300 option. It's listed on the dealer's paperwork at a cost of $0, but it's not listed on the window sticker. I didn't pay for it. The button is there. The light comes on. Can anybody explain this?
Anyway, I'm happy with the deal. I had three internet quotes going locally and 90 miles away. Drove the 90 miles to get the color and options I wanted. Got a decent trade value for a 99 300M.
Like many of you, I considered the TL (still like it), but also the TSX (too small) and the Volvo S60 (silly small back seat) and Volvo XC70 (too expensive). Went with the Max for the room and the zoom.
I am in Orlando and right in the middle of getting quotes for an '05 SE w/ DPP. I had an inital offer from Reed Nissan that excellent at $27,000. They didn't have my exact color but I was flexible.
So I call the internet manager back and he starts to B.S. me with the usual stuff and when we get to the issue of price he says it'll be around $28,000. His excuse was I told him I wanted an '04.
Funny how written email requests can change years as they travel from one computer to another! :P
Any suggestions on an honest Nissan dealer in or near Orlando?
I am looking to buy a Nissan Maxima 3.5 SL 4dr Sedan (3.5L 6cyl 5A) with Drivers Preferred Package and Navigation System. Can some one tell me any recent buying experience (best quote etc.).
I would like to get the 2005 Smoke Gray Maxima SE. According to Edmunds the invoice price including destination fees is $25,431. I was looking for 300 under invoice plus the 1000 rebate. I was going to go for the fax offer of $24,131.
Does that seem like a good offer?
Should I be offering less and settling for my price?
Is the faxing approach useful or should I be going in in-person?
Would offering all cash help me get a better price? If so how much lower should I offer for an all cash deal?
Any help would be great since I would like to have it purchased for my parents before I go back to school.
I think email approach is the best. In-person seems to be the worst in my opinion (why waste your time haggling with the salesman and while they have you sitting while he goes to talk to his manager etc etc). Internet (or fax) is quick and easy. I think you should look for a bit less (maybe 500 - 700 below invoice) and see if anyone takes it. Seems alot of people are getting it that much discounted. If no one can then maybe ask them how close to your number they can and take the lowest.
I wouldnt mention cash at all. Its not going to be to your advantage and could be to your detriment -- since they make money on the dealer financing.
Also try purchasing before end of year. There may be some nissan - dealer hidden incentives that could entice a better price
Regarding negotiating the "best" price, to state the obvious, a new car is a huge purchase for most folks (probably the only more expensive items are a home or a wife ;-)). Not to mention that cars generally keep costing you money as they rapidly depreciate. Therefore, for most, every $ saved up front counts. If you service at the dealer, the dealer will most certainly quickly recoup any money they "lost" on the sale...
A penny saved...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I understand a car is a HUGE purchase - but i had a customer once that wanted to be at $250 a month on a car, which we did (without any crazy extras or long terms, or any trickery) yet he didn't like the SELLING price, and wanted us to lower it, even though he came in with this MONTHLY payment and we met it.
does that make sense? if i can afford the payments, what does the selling price matter?
you didnt read what i said - like the customer that came in - im not talking about tricky tactics - im talking about the term you are looking for, with the down payment you want...not "a sentra for 250 if you finance for 50 years".
if you can get the car you want, at the payment you want, for the term you want, what's the issue? why must people negotiate the selling price, once you are at the payment you want (without an 11 year term...)
sheesh! i am just stating the fact that there are people over here who are trying to make a living - some may try to scalp you for all you are worth, yes...but some of us are honest people who have families and homes to pay for too! do you ever gripe about the 100% profit that best buy makes on you when you buy a tv? heck, even i negotiated with them...i dont condemn negotiating, but i think people are getting a little unrealistic sometimes. sorry if i have to vent, i get a lot of wacko people coming in here expecting a loaded maxima with $1000 down at $250 a month, and get mad at ME when we realistically cant do that deal!
dont mean to sound upset - its frustrating being on this side of the desk ;-)
I grew up in Westport. Nice neighborhood if you can afford it!
Like most who have bought a few cars, I've had varied experiences from the ridiculous to the sublime ("Sorry, you're wrong. No turbo-charged car on earth comes with a 5 speed manual transmission," a CT based Mazda saleswoman insisted even though they had some on the lot!). The industry (car sales) just has a bad rep (unfortunately somewhat deserved, imho) of being less than forthcoming ("It is illegal for me to sell you a car without the protection package" said a MA dealer). But, other side of the coin, caveat emptor!
If you are a smart consumer, the selling price is THE PRICE. Your buyer either didn't understand or trust the math. But you just don't tell a salesperson, "I've got $300/month to spend. What can I get?" Unless you're willing to get taken most of the time...!
Supply and demand rules the day.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
its true...salespeople in the past (and many today!) dont help the image that we have currently. its tough though trying to break the stereotype of skeevy salesperson. i am as honest as i can be when it comes to selling cars. i would love for people to come in with a print out of edmunds TMV - that would make things so much easier! That is really a fair price for everyone i think. it stinks when some people are so uneducated that they ask for $10000 off sticker...
its tough to understand what its like from this perspective (salesperson) unless you've experienced it.
bridger71, it took me a while to get back to the forum. Have you bought yet? I worked with Universal Nissan in Orlando. The internet guy was great. My only gripe was, when I got there, he turned me over to Typical Sales Guy who talked my ear off and didn't listen - but I got my price and the car I wanted.
Don't be afraid to get lots of email quotes from as far away as Tampa or Daytona. Courtesy Nissan in Tampa gave me a good quote, but not the exact car I wanted. Of course, they all say they can "get" you the car you want. I'd rather drive and see it myself.
I agree with the recent post where the guy says to get EMAIL quotes. I didn't give out my phone number until I was ready to buy.
Driver Pref Pkg, PWR sunroof, Veh Dyn Control w/ TCS and full size spare, Satellite Radio, Splash Guards, and floor mats. The price is 29,900. Can anyone tell me if this is a good deal?
I actually had my best email quote from Universal and went down there the day after Christmas ready to deal, but like you I had to deal with a floor salesperson and not the internet manager when I walked through the door. My sales guy was young and not to bad, but it was the finance manager who clearly was calling the shots. They low-balled my trade-in (a '97 Maxima SE) so I got up and left. Got a call 20 minutes later with a better offer but I said I would think about it.
Well, today I got a match on the Universal offer from Courtesy in Tampa and actually still have an appointment with them tomorrow that I have to cancel.
I have to cancel because Reed Nissan found my car in Palm Beach and the car is being driven up tomorrow morning. They matched the previous offer of $27,500 with dealer fees included and are paying $100 more for my trade-in.
The only thing I didnt like is that the car is actually being driven from Palm Beach to Orlando so it will have about 190 miles when I get it tomorrow. None of the paperwork is final until I inspect the vehicle tomorrow though so if anything looks damaged I can walk.
$27,500 for an '05 is good, assuming it has DPP or Sensory plus a few other things.
Don't worry about the 180 miles. You can always walk if they've damaged the car somehow. That's the way I bought my Jetta a few years back. It all worked out fine. But again, the 180 miles is absolutely nothing if you get the car you want.
Universal tried to play tricks on my trade too - telling me it's too old (99) to get a loan on, it's American (300M) etc. Eventually we settled.
I found the Finance guy to be quite nice at Universal. We bought an extended warranty before he had a chance to pitch it.
I too just traded my '99 300M (loved the car!) and got NO RESPECT trade-wise (from 3 different dealers). Ended up with what I believe was an overall good deal on an '05 Acura TL.
I'm really gonna miss the M.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Really? That's too bad. I had reservations about buying a first model year Chrysler, but the car just spoke to me. And was a faithful servant after some first year warranty work (window motors, tranny sensor). But with 67,000 miles, I feared big repairs on the horizon...
To stay on track for this thread, my family has owned Nissans/Datsuns including a Maxima, Z and Sentra SE-R and (unbelievably under powered 5 door) Stanza. All great cars (well, maybe not the Stanza...).
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
'05 Max SL with the Elite Package. After checking online investories of about a dozen area dealerships, I've found ONE that has an SL w/Elite in stock. Can any Nissan salesmen confirm that the Elite option is a rare, hard-to-find model? Also, I don't want a sunroof. Of course, the one dealer that has an SL Elite no sunroof in stock also has had problems with the state Consumer Affairs Dept., which makes me leery of dealing with them. If I go to the closest Nissan dealer to me, would they check area dealers as a routine matter and then swap stock to get what I want to buy?
Local (Mpls, MN) internet sales manager is telling me that vehicles are pricing at $100-200 over invoice.
Promotions include $1000 cash back OR 2%x60mth financing. To me, it would be a better deal to take the cash back, financing with traditional 3rd party source at 4-5% and pay off in 1-2 years.
My question is, what other pockets of profit (dealer incentives, etc.) am I not seeing here?
The verbal qoute was $28.6K for a 2005 SE, 6MT, DPP, Pwr SR, mats, etc. - net of the $1K cash back with no negotiation yet on my part. Excluding cash back the price is $29.6K or right at invoice for this vehicle.
Comments
I test drove the 05 SL and just loved it. Got a quote on it with DPP, Sunroof, splashgaurds, mats for total of $29,075 (including frieght, excluding TTL, excluding rebate/financing). Do you think this is a good deal?
By the way, Nissan extended their $1000 Customer Cash back or 2% financing option till 20th November 04. Sweet, huh?
I am currently shopping for a new Maxima, and the best price that I got is $29500 for a 2004 SL w/nav, leather, and sunroof. Do you guys think will be ok? To me looks like too much!
Maybe I am wrong. Any feedback is welcome.
Mike
maybe i just don't get it :-P
i've only been a salesperson for a year - not my cup of tea, but it pays the bills (barely!) i just get frustrated when people want all this money off sticker when it just isn't there to give. if a dealer isn't making ANY money - why stay in business?
just some thoughts - sorry if this strays a little off topic. just so you know, we hand away maximas at $500 under invoice.
-thene
fortunately for consumers, the prices are great out there! unfortunately for me, i make crap for money :-(
salespeople get screwed left, right, and upside down.
I'm gonna wait until the week after christmas (one of the slower car sales weeks. plus potential end of month/quarter/year sales pressure for dealers) and see if I can get a Max with preffered (or maybe sensory package) at more than 500 under invoice + rebate. If I can I'll jump on it.
The one thing that worries me about the Max is the resale value seems significantly lower than the TL. I plan on keeping it forever (or atleast 10 years) so maybe the resale won't matter but it would be nice to know that if I had to sell I could get a good value.
I know $4 grand is a lot, but in addition to the resale (which will make up the cost difference for the first five or six years) also factor in the satisfaction of buying the car you really want.
In addition, the TL has a 4/50 warranty as opposed to the Maxima's 3/36; plus you will receive the benefit of a premium brand dealer for warranty/repair issues as opposed to going to the Nissan store.
I drove a Maxima for 11 years and loved it, but for a few thousand more (providing, of course, that you can afford it) I have to go with the TL in this comparo.
I hope you enjoy your purchase, whatever it is...
Anyway, I'm happy with the deal. I had three internet quotes going locally and 90 miles away. Drove the 90 miles to get the color and options I wanted. Got a decent trade value for a 99 300M.
Like many of you, I considered the TL (still like it), but also the TSX (too small) and the Volvo S60 (silly small back seat) and Volvo XC70 (too expensive). Went with the Max for the room and the zoom.
Enjoy your new car!
So I call the internet manager back and he starts to B.S. me with the usual stuff and when we get to the issue of price he says it'll be around $28,000. His excuse was I told him I wanted an '04.
Funny how written email requests can change years as they travel from one computer to another! :P
Any suggestions on an honest Nissan dealer in or near Orlando?
I am looking to buy a Nissan Maxima 3.5 SL 4dr Sedan (3.5L 6cyl 5A) with Drivers Preferred Package and Navigation System. Can some one tell me any recent buying experience (best quote etc.).
Does that seem like a good offer?
Should I be offering less and settling for my price?
Is the faxing approach useful or should I be going in in-person?
Would offering all cash help me get a better price? If so how much lower should I offer for an all cash deal?
Any help would be great since I would like to have it purchased for my parents before I go back to school.
Happy Holidays!
I wouldnt mention cash at all. Its not going to be to your advantage and could be to your detriment -- since they make money on the dealer financing.
Also try purchasing before end of year. There may be some nissan - dealer hidden incentives that could entice a better price
Goodluck.
Regarding negotiating the "best" price, to state the obvious, a new car is a huge purchase for most folks (probably the only more expensive items are a home or a wife ;-)). Not to mention that cars generally keep costing you money as they rapidly depreciate. Therefore, for most, every $ saved up front counts. If you service at the dealer, the dealer will most certainly quickly recoup any money they "lost" on the sale...
A penny saved...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I understand a car is a HUGE purchase - but i had a customer once that wanted to be at $250 a month on a car, which we did (without any crazy extras or long terms, or any trickery) yet he didn't like the SELLING price, and wanted us to lower it, even though he came in with this MONTHLY payment and we met it.
does that make sense? if i can afford the payments, what does the selling price matter?
just my thoughts
What difference does the selling price make as long as the buyer can meet the payments?
Well, how about this scenario:
"I want that Sentra for $250 a month."
Yessir. That car will cost you only $30K. We can set you up at $250 a month for about 11 years and you'll be all set. Ready to sign?
Please give the customer credit for having half a brain.
if you can get the car you want, at the payment you want, for the term you want, what's the issue? why must people negotiate the selling price, once you are at the payment you want (without an 11 year term...)
sheesh! i am just stating the fact that there are people over here who are trying to make a living - some may try to scalp you for all you are worth, yes...but some of us are honest people who have families and homes to pay for too! do you ever gripe about the 100% profit that best buy makes on you when you buy a tv? heck, even i negotiated with them...i dont condemn negotiating, but i think people are getting a little unrealistic sometimes. sorry if i have to vent, i get a lot of wacko people coming in here expecting a loaded maxima with $1000 down at $250 a month, and get mad at ME when we realistically cant do that deal!
dont mean to sound upset - its frustrating being on this side of the desk ;-)
Like most who have bought a few cars, I've had varied experiences from the ridiculous to the sublime ("Sorry, you're wrong. No turbo-charged car on earth comes with a 5 speed manual transmission," a CT based Mazda saleswoman insisted even though they had some on the lot!). The industry (car sales) just has a bad rep (unfortunately somewhat deserved, imho) of being less than forthcoming ("It is illegal for me to sell you a car without the protection package" said a MA dealer). But, other side of the coin, caveat emptor!
If you are a smart consumer, the selling price is THE PRICE. Your buyer either didn't understand or trust the math. But you just don't tell a salesperson, "I've got $300/month to spend. What can I get?" Unless you're willing to get taken most of the time...!
Supply and demand rules the day.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
its tough to understand what its like from this perspective (salesperson) unless you've experienced it.
Don't be afraid to get lots of email quotes from as far away as Tampa or Daytona. Courtesy Nissan in Tampa gave me a good quote, but not the exact car I wanted. Of course, they all say they can "get" you the car you want. I'd rather drive and see it myself.
I agree with the recent post where the guy says to get EMAIL quotes. I didn't give out my phone number until I was ready to buy.
Driver Pref Pkg, PWR sunroof, Veh Dyn Control w/ TCS and full size spare, Satellite Radio, Splash Guards, and floor mats. The price is 29,900. Can anyone tell me if this is a good deal?
I actually had my best email quote from Universal and went down there the day after Christmas ready to deal, but like you I had to deal with a floor salesperson and not the internet manager when I walked through the door. My sales guy was young and not to bad, but it was the finance manager who clearly was calling the shots. They low-balled my trade-in (a '97 Maxima SE) so I got up and left. Got a call 20 minutes later with a better offer but I said I would think about it.
Well, today I got a match on the Universal offer from Courtesy in Tampa and actually still have an appointment with them tomorrow that I have to cancel.
I have to cancel because Reed Nissan found my car in Palm Beach and the car is being driven up tomorrow morning. They matched the previous offer of $27,500 with dealer fees included and are paying $100 more for my trade-in.
The only thing I didnt like is that the car is actually being driven from Palm Beach to Orlando so it will have about 190 miles when I get it tomorrow. None of the paperwork is final until I inspect the vehicle tomorrow though so if anything looks damaged I can walk.
$27,500 for an '05 is good, assuming it has DPP or Sensory plus a few other things.
Don't worry about the 180 miles. You can always walk if they've damaged the car somehow. That's the way I bought my Jetta a few years back. It all worked out fine. But again, the 180 miles is absolutely nothing if you get the car you want.
Universal tried to play tricks on my trade too - telling me it's too old (99) to get a loan on, it's American (300M) etc. Eventually we settled.
I found the Finance guy to be quite nice at Universal. We bought an extended warranty before he had a chance to pitch it.
Good luck! What are you trying to get?
I too just traded my '99 300M (loved the car!) and got NO RESPECT trade-wise (from 3 different dealers). Ended up with what I believe was an overall good deal on an '05 Acura TL.
I'm really gonna miss the M.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Our stories sound similar - except I hated the 300M !! Worst car I've ever had.
To stay on track for this thread, my family has owned Nissans/Datsuns including a Maxima, Z and Sentra SE-R and (unbelievably under powered 5 door) Stanza. All great cars (well, maybe not the Stanza...).
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
2005 SE w/
Driver Preferred Package
Mats
Splash Guards
Wheel Locks
I also got them to knock off the dealer fees so that was $27,500 plus ttl.
Promotions include $1000 cash back OR 2%x60mth financing. To me, it would be a better deal to take the cash back, financing with traditional 3rd party source at 4-5% and pay off in 1-2 years.
My question is, what other pockets of profit (dealer incentives, etc.) am I not seeing here?
The verbal qoute was $28.6K for a 2005 SE, 6MT, DPP, Pwr SR, mats, etc. - net of the $1K cash back with no negotiation yet on my part. Excluding cash back the price is $29.6K or right at invoice for this vehicle.
Thoughts?
TIA,
Sean
Thank You,
Marissa