Hi, I just purchased 2005 Maxima SE last night and paid 23k for it( Also lifetime free oil change warrenty free). It dosen't have nevigation system or aut seat adjustment etc but it is nicely equipped with dula AC and all othe statndard gadgets. Anyway the delership is DarCar Nissan in Rockville, Maryland. Great people great price.
Damn! Traction Control was important to me. Nisans literature and Website indicate that TCS is STANDARD on the 2005 Maxima. Mine doesn't have it. Never looked for it, never talked to dealer about it since I had already researched new cars and Nissan indicated it was standard. Turns out that it is only in 2005s that came off assembly line after November of 04. Of course mine was built in September! I wish I knew as this was an important feature to me and I would have checked for it and could have picked another off the lot. Any Nissan people on this board encounter this before? :mad: ............ :mad: ........... :mad: ............. :mad: . :mad:
nissan will do that sometimes - a vehicle is already on the assembly line, and they decide to add something to the vehicle after some have already been built. nothing you can do about it now unfortunately! if it makes you feel any better, the price on a 2005 maxima with the TCS actually is a higher base price than the ones without...
Any experience with TCS on this car? Its FWD so I assume fairly good in the snow anyway. I also have a 2005 Pathfinder LE with VDC and it is definately worth it on an SUV. BTW, I am pretty impressed with the car. Mine is Majestic Blue with Frost leather, DPP,Sensory,Xenons,power moonroof,Factory XM. Car looks very sharp and rides great.
Basically, I want the 2005 Maxima SL, with driver preferred package, traction control and sunroof. I live in Eastern Pa. The MSRP is $32,150 and I have a price of $27,325 (after my $1250 back). I am not sure what the invoice is on this ? Can someone tell me whether this is a good deal? and what the invoice price is?
I'm getting ready to sign a lease on a Nissan Maxima SL and I want to know if the numbers look right. I may not have all the info you need to be able to assess. 2005 Maxima SL with DPP. Sticker Price is $32,750. $395.00 per month with $1999 down - this includes 1st month payment.
Your prompt feed back is requested. I haven't leased in a while and I can't tell if I'm leaving money on the table. I don't have a trade-in. Thanks!
I am in a market for Nissan Maxima. Since it is almost summer, my dilemma is whether to purchase a 2005 Maxima SL now or wait a bit for the new 2006 Maxima to come out.
What are the pro's and con's of either choice? Would I get the newer (and potentially better) car with the same price (Maxima SL 05 MSRP $32,480 with VDC/SunRoof/DPP), if I were to wait a bit for the newer 06 model to come out?
Your opinions and insights on this matter are greatly appreciated.
Just took delivery of 2005 Nissan maxima se midnight blue in lakewood colo paid 25,150 for it wat to now if its a good deal great car love it more then the 2004 Nissan Titan that i have parked in the garage. I"M driving the maxima and the wife is driving the Titan. Traded the 2001 Nissan maxima se fully loaded every option side airbags bose system we got 14200 for it. my wife and I love Nissan cars I"m 24 years old and my wife is 21 and we"ve always had Nissan cars any feed back thanks
Hi – was wondering what some recent lease deals some of you may have gotten. I’m in Northern Virgina (Wash, DC market). My first time leasing (usually buy and drive ‘em for 10-12 years).
Want to lease a 2005 Maxima SL with drivers preferred package, VDC, sunroof (also splash guards, XM – though don’t really need those – but it’s on the lot). Got a good initial offer from the dealer (I think) $26,895 – with the $1,250 rebate.
However, the lease price was $470/month. 0 down. 36 months and 15k. And I wasn’t happy with the person I talked to about it. Wouldn’t tell me “money factor” or what it would equate as APR. Wanted to get a price point. But also told him I wasn’t buying today and still had an Accord to compare. (Ruled out Camry. Liked Acura TL but didn’t meet needs.)
Internet lease price checked got me a $420/month quote.
I liked the Maxima a lot.
Then checked out Honda Accord EX and found Honda has a national lease deal at $249/month. 36 months and 12k. $1,500 down for that rate. (So I could go 0 down and get it for $300/month) Gen Sales Mgr was great at local dealer. Explained everything including 2.25% APR. No pressure. Offered to waive down payment. Initial offer from dealer of $23,058 for the EX.
What’s the deal? I’d select the Maxima over the Accord even with the higher Max sales price. But it’s not worth $7,920 more over 3 years to me (or apples to apples with 0 down $6,120).
Any deals on Maxima leases coming or that you’ve got? I’d go with Maxima if I could get a better lease deal.
Want to thank everyone here, especially Thenebean. Picked up my 2005 Maxima SL last Friday for $500 below invoice. Only additional costs paid were $149 document fee, $59 for title & transferring registration, $8 tire fee, and tax. That's it. Then got the $1,250 rebate applied.
As a 25-year IBM sales veteran and current executive, I buy the way I sell – considering more than just the lowest price, valuing service and support, and appreciating how fair business dealings lead to long-term relationships and repeat business. After researching cars for almost three months and deciding on the Maxima, a couple of weeks ago I faxed my interest in purchasing one to almost a dozen Nissan dealers in the central New Jersey area. I was quite specific, pointing out the exact configuration I was looking for and pronouncing myself ready to buy immediately. I shared with them that I had no trade-in and based on market pricing learned through Edmunds, expected to get the car for hundreds below invoice. Having never owned a Nissan, I had no dealer bias other than distance. My preference – assuming everything else being close to equal – would have been to buy from the dealer closest to my home. However, not all of course was equal. First off, some of the dealers eliminated themselves by their lack of timely response. Others refused to quote me a true “out-the-door” price in writing. And some who did padded their cost with items I didn’t request or want but they touted as “non-negotiable” -- such as $200 for VIN etching I found it somewhat ironic that the area’s only dealerships with totally clean records with both the NJ Division of Consumer Affairs and Better Business Bureau of NJ were the two who were offering both competitive out-the-door prices in writing and treated me in a professional way. I knew $500 below invoice was the best deal available because I walked out after they both put their final offer in writing, and both said even though they knew I might be buying elsewhere, they said that was the best they could do. I believed it. In the end, I chose my dealer because of three things: One, their complimentary loaner car program for appropriate scheduled maintenance; Two, the warm and “small-town” atmosphere of their store; and lastly, the professionalism and responsiveness of the salesman.
All in all, it was a great buying experience and I believe a great car. Thanks again to all of you who helped make it so.
Is that standard? I remember paying like a $25 notary fee with the last car I purchased but "thenebean" what is up with the $149 document fee? Is that a Nissan thing?
sschumer since you are in NJ only a state away from Pa and you seemed to have worked on it pretty hard I feel comfortable that $400 to $600 under invoice is a good deal.
My experience so far:
nicest thing about it: the Maxima is simply a great looking car and visiting a dealership and seeing 10 Maximas lined up one after another makes your heart race.
worst thing about it: these dumb video clip/ power point emails that every dealer who has my email address sends to me that provide no information but claim to be an "on line dealership." They are sent out automatically and when you are waiting for a specific answer by email from a dealer you receive 2 or 3 of these that of course provide no real information and surely don't answer the specific questions I asked.
how it has been different from shopping for a Maxima in 2002: real reluctance from dealers in person and even by email to put their price in writing. Instead, I have gotten pricing verbally most of the time.
how it has been the same from shopping for a Maxima in 2002: I had one dealer email me how I was cheapening the brand by price shopping. Of course, this is the same dealer who has slogans like "we will not be undersold" and "we buy in volume so that you can save." In 2002, I had a similar email response from a dealer saying I was depleting the resale value of Maximas by buying under invoice.
most disappointing thing this time: I had a dealer email me a price on the exact car I wanted in the exact color combination with a price $750 under invoice. After I used that price with other dealers for a few hours, he retracted it as a mistake. I think he truly did make a mistake so I didn't make a big deal about it.
strangest dealer move: A dealer about an hour away responded to my price quote request by saying "spend a week getting your best price bring it to me and I will beat it by $500 or give you $500 check." I am now $600 south of invoice (plus $1250 cash back). So do I call him on this one? I assume there is no way he is going to sell it to me for $1100 under invoice. I know thenebean is going to say I should leave him off the hook because he probably expected me to come back to him with invoice or a little under but not $600 under.
I expect to buy by the end of the week. Visited three dealerships; emailed about 25. Worked with about 10 of those. Three salesperson have stood out as most professional and those are the three still in the running.
funny thing is i've never heard of a notary fee, but dealer conveyance fees are charged by the individual dealership. it essentially helps cover the cost of DMV, paperwork, overhead, etc. I guess you could call it profit - though it isnt really. It goes to the operating costs of the business. Some states regulate how much a dealer can charge, others do not. CT (where I am) does not, and you will find those fees to range from $199 up to $499 and higher.
as far as that dealer who told you he'd beat the price by $500 or give you the check for $500, why not take him up on it? He offered it, see what happens! If he is going to guarantee something like that, let him eat his own words and deal with the loss. Hey, worst that could happen is they say no, right? ;-)
Interestingly, the dealer that is 600 under promises with the exception of tax and tags there are no other fees. I agree with you that there are real costs associated with the paper work. However, there are real costs associated with the keeping the car clean, heating the showroom etc. but i wouldn't expect them on the bill.
Regarding the I will beat it by 500 bucks guy, i did call him and he said he knows i am 600 under and will still do it. The downside: I would take at least 2 hours out of my day to get up there.
I thought you previously posted that the holdback is only $650 on Maximas; if that is correct then how can I take a $1100 under invoice offer serious? A friend who has been with another brand said the actual holdback and incentives on Maximas is in excess of 4% of MSRP. Can that be correct?
holdback depends on every vehicle, and every company does it differently. Currently there is a special program for dealers who hit their target for Maximas/Altimas that gives a bonus $250 per car sold. It may be why he may be able to give you that deal at this time. Had that program not been in place, he may not have - or he figures if he promised to beat it by $500 or give you a check for $500 - its better to at least get the sale if its gonna be $500 either way, right?
well I went an hour out of my way. Salesman said we said we would do the deal so we will do the deal but we need the owner's approval and he is not here. So I am suppose to hear tomorrow. I now spent the time going up there and now i want the deal or my 500 buck check.
You can post the name of the dealership, just not the names/contact info of the salespeople. Please don't post messages with "you can e-mail me at..." -- this prevents others from benefitting from this experience. Also, posting your e-mail address in your message is a good way to get on more spam lists as the bots will likely pick it up.
Just to add...The current Nissan rebate on Maxima is 1250 if you do not use Nissan Financing or Nisan-Infiniti Lease. if you use Nissan lease there is 500 cash available to dealer which must be considered when comparing quotes.
Posted on 05/03/05 my actual price paid and buying experience, thought I'd add why I thought the 2005 Maxima SL (with sunroof, VDC, DPP, SIRIUS radio, floor/trunk mats & splash guards) was the best choice for ME. I stress that as, of course, anyone's choice depends on their own key criteria, as well as subjective evaluations.
First off, I was replacing a '97 Dodge Intrepid. And my key decision criteria in '05 was not disimilar from '97. As a 48 year-old family man with two (now teenage) sons, and someone who purchases cars and plans to keep for many years, I decided I still wanted and needed a family sedan and valued most (not in any particular order): Reliability and safety (VDC important), family size (rear seat room, trunk), looks / sportiness, and initial cost ($30K or under). The Maxima met all these criteria and more. I didn't choose the following cars because of the following reasons:
TOYOTA AVALON: Even more back seat room than the Maxima and as reliable, but didn't like looks, drives like a livingroom, is marketed as basically "an old(er) man's car," and cost thousands more comparably equipped.
ACURA TL: Colleague at work bought one in February, have driven in it a number of times since. Great car. But Consumer Reports (CR) lists reliability as only average (Maxima is very good, a shade under excellent), TL more expensive, smaller back seat and trunk, back seat doesn't fold down.
VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT: Average reliability at BEST. Whole Volkswagen line not good reliability per CR. Otherwise, I thought an excellent car from a feature / function standpoint. But fairly bland looks.
NISSAN ALTIMA: Reliability average. No VDC. Didn't like looks as much as Maxima. But was less expensive with many similar traits, i.e. rear seat room.
TOYOTA CAMRY: Excellent reliability and car, size of rear seat and trunk, comporable cost, maybe even a bit less. But find the looks very bland, just simply did not want the car so many others on the road drive.
HONDA ACCORD: Similar to Camry analysis above, although no VDC option and reliability above average, not excellent. A bit sportier handling and looks than the Camry, but still neither as good as the Maxima. No heated outside mirrors, smaller trunk as well.
Did for a short time look at some small SUV's, but decided another family sedan was best for me. However, if I had bought one, the Honda CRV would have been my clear-cut choice over the Ford Escape, Subaru Forester or Toyota RAV-4, based mostly on excellent reliability, much bigger back seat (leg room) than anything else (even mid-size SUV's), great feature in that the rear seats recline up to 45 degrees, cargo space, transmission, gas mileage and VDC.
One last item: I bought my Maxima in Spirited Bronze with Cafe Latte (camel) leather interior. Love the bronze / pewter color to begin with, let alone its uniqueness. Liked this exterior / interior color comibination better than any available in the six other cars listed above.
To each his own, but hope others find this helpful!
Pa. and Nj. appear to have a glut of 12/04 2005 Maxima that have the traction control standard but do not have the last price increase>
Transmission 5-Speed Automatic Packages and Options Driver Preferred Package $800 Power Glass Sunroof $900 Splash Guards $120
Accessories Carpeted Floor & Trunk Mats $150 ((( price went up to 160 I believe)))
Base MSRP $29,600.00 ((( not the price went up I believe to 29,750))) Total Packages, Options, & Accessories $1,970.00 Destination & Handling $580.00 Total MSRP† $32,150.00
2004 Maxima SL, fully loaded except navigation, 7500 miles. asking price is $24,991. dealer says he would only go down to $23,991. Is this a good deal? He's not willing to negotiate any more than that and the car is beautiful!!!!!
Look up Edmunds TMV on the used car part of the website and input your zip code and options on the vehicle. That will give you a start. You can also ask Terry over on the Real World Trade In Values (people also ask about asking prices for slightly used cars there).
the SL invoice without above on a 2005 is only 27,782 (most are between 150 and 300 less if they have been sitting there before price increases 27,482) - 1250 cash back is 26,232 . If you get a new one for 500 under invoice, 25,732. So for 1,740 you could have a new one. If any of the above is on it then, add the invoice price of the options on the 2005. Most 2005s also have traction control standard.
Angelaw1 Sorry if I was unclear in my above post. Basically, I think for 1,700 bucks more you could have a new 2005 rather than pay almost 24,000 for a used 2004. I started looking for a used 2004 three weeks ago and got such crappy pricing that i bought a new 2005 last night.
But the prices you gave were without options, while the poster found a fully loaded '04. Edmunds TMV with options was right around that price -- it sounds pretty good to me. You would be talking more like $ 3-4000 more for a new '05 with those options, which is significant.
Actually, it does have all of the options except the sunroof. Last night I went to a couple of dealers to find a 2004 SE, no one had any, both tried to sell me a 2005 base SE for 24,000.
"fully loaded" what does that mean? That is exactly why I gave him/her the base and then said add the options back in. Not having the sunroof would not seem to be fully loaded to me and it doesn't have the Elite Package. Anyway, those three options driver preferred package 694, splash guards 92, carpeted mats 113 add up to another 899 bucks. So for another 2639 you have a new car. That is assuming you get the new deal for 500 under invoice. If you have more than 5 dealers within 50 mile radius, you will do even better than that.
Here is what I would do: get a copy of the used car's invoice or at least its sticker for all of the options.
Run those same options through edmunds for a 2005 SL with those options.
Get the invoice price; email exactly what you want to 5 to 8 dealers; ask them for there best price below invoice. Say you want to buy within 48 hours.
If any do not respond, call them and say you have not responded to by email. REFUSE TO GO to the dealership. When they tell you on the phone that they are not sure what email you are referring to, list each option, tell them to write it down and tell them to fax you the work up on your proposal with the invoice including ALL dealer fees. Be polite but firm.
If they give you crap, mention that your brother works for WXXX radio as a producer and he was just talking about doing a story "dealing with car dealers" and he was just asking you to give your experience - then ask the salesperson how to spell their last name. OK you don't have to do this; just say you are off my list.
After you got an email price, and a day or so has passed, email everyone and say "I got pricing and you need to beat 300 under to earn my business" (this number should be your best price- example 200- plus an extra hundred - I am not telling to lie because rightfully so if dealer ABC first told you 200 under, you would not buy from dealer XYZ for just matching it).
Depending where you live, you will get below 500 under without more than a day or so passing.
I saw in previous posts you mentioned about getting a gold extended warranty package. I just today purchased the Maxima and they offerred me a full scope of months / miles "Comprehensive" warranty all the way up to 84 or 96 months (various mile options). I opted for the 6 years / 72K miles for $1206. They didn't have anything listed as a Silver or Gold package. Is this the same thing? Is the price fair?
Also, bought the car which was stickered at 34,550 and an invoice at 31,532. Includes Nav, Driver Pref, Sunroof, Satellite Rad, Flr Mats, Splash Guards. Ended up getting it for 29,550 with rebate. Was this a fair deal? I felt comfortable with it, but at the same time every dealer I spoke with kept telling me that they don't want to lose to price. What exactly is the bottom line for these guys. It seems that everytime a dealer gives a quote, the other guy can beat it.
with regards to the warranty, if they didn't mention a gold or silver - chances are it is an aftermarket warranty through a third party. They showed you that warranty because it is cheaper than the Nissan warranties. depending on how much you want to spend, i still think it is worth going with nissan's warranty than the aftermarket one. you will see a price jump however - i guess you get what you pay for! (and nissan isn't going out of business anytime soon - they will be there to back that warranty for you)
As far as the price, it looks like a very fair and aggressive price to me. dealers can almost always beat another deal by $100 bucks...and depending on market, where their numbers are for the month - what they need to accomplish to receive an extra bonus from the factory (sometimes nissan will give dealers extra cash back, $250 or so, for every unit they sell of a specific make if they exceed their monthly goal). there are a lot of factors that will determine the best a dealer can do on a vehicle. as long as you know what you can afford, the process is pleasant and without dishonesty or weird fees, and you are happy with what you are paying, and the process, and the vehicle...thats all that matters! sure, someone out there will pay less than you did (that is ALWAYS the case...) but maybe their experience was long and drawn out, or they had to haggle their weekends away to get that price. they may also not get great service when they go back to the dealer, knowing that this guy took them for all they were worth and then some...
buying a car is different for everyone - you find what works, and what makes the process pleasant (it should be exciting, after all!) and you go with it.
Much appreciated Thene. I felt comfortable with the price even though other dealers were telling me to call them once I get a price. Plus the service was great. Didn't feel like I was being taken, unlike a couple of dealers I spoke with.
The car is awesome! It was between this and the 2006 BMW 325i. You get more for your money with this car and I was able to fit my family in comfortably. (Important to the wife :P )
dealers will always feed you the "get your prices then come back to me and i'll beat it" game. in a way, it makes sense to the dealer - all you gotta do now is beat what they come back with, instead of giving a number and losing you to someone else.
there should be a balance between great price, and great experience!
Anyone been shopping in Southern Cailfornia for a Maxima recently? Seeing as we are heading toward the end of the model year, I am wondering what a good deal would be for a Max w/ leather (SL, I guess), non-nav?
Can anyone who recently leased a Nissan (I assume all Nissan lease agreements would be the same) tell me if gap insurance is included in your monthly payment?
Can you also tell me what sort of insurance minimums are spelled out in the contract?
I am considering the Maxima.You said unless your putting down a "ton of money" the Nissan special financing works out better then the rebate.I am assuming 4k does not quailify as a ton of money? So with 4k down would I be better off with the higher price and the special financing? thanks, Paul
financing is still better than the rebate with $4000 down. By tons of money i mean around $9000+. We (on a very slow day) decided to calculate when one made more sense than the other.
The higher the rebate, and the lesser the price of the vehicle, that threshold goes down...but in your case, unless you put around $10k down or so, the financing will be a much better deal for you payment wise.
It also depends on how much the rebate is too. I went thru this pricing Armada's and Navigator's (bought the Armada btw). Like you said, with a "ton of money" and high rebate, the rebate usually makes more sense and you can get your own financing. If you're offered rebate vs. financing with the rebate say at 1k. The financing will usually make more since. Lots of stuff to consider if you want the best deal.
to all you Nissan experts: Can you give your opinion on the quote I received on a lease for the Maxima SE.I am in Columbus,Oh 2500.00 down (includes all fees and first payment) 315.00 a month 36 months 15k miles a year residual price>14,513.00
I have not even begun to negotiate, is their room for the dealer to come down on the monthly payment or the residual price?....Thanks!!
what kind of maxima are you leasing (what equipment is included in the vehicle)? also, what is the msrp, and what is the selling price? That will give us a better indication of what kind of deal you are getting!
I'm looking for an SE with DPP and satellite radio (XM). I live in Atlanta, and I did the dealer quote on Edmunds. After reading these posts, I'm disappointed with what I received. The invoice is 29239 and I've received a quote of 28610 (car only) and 31548 (OTD - traction control, floormats, splash guards, sunroof?) For the second quote, I have to clarify the sunroof part b/c I think that's the standard one. Does anyone know if I should be able to get this car at invoice or closer to invoice?
Here is the deal I received on 5/31. Was it a good one??
2005 SL - DPP, sunroof, satellite radio, splash guards, floor mats and trunk mat, tcs. Sticker - 32,550 Invoice - 29,672 Paid - 27,587 that's with the 1250 rebate and dealer holdback (does not include tax, tags and dealer fees.) I also purchased the Gold Preferred Plus 60 mos - 100, 000 for $893. He said that was $50 over his invoice price. ?? I had to actually ask the finance guy to show me the vehicle protection plans. I usually do not buy the ext warranty but this is bumper to bumper through Nissan and there is a lot of gadgets in this car that could become expensive to fix. I almost took the 3% finance and gave up the rebate but the finance guy let me keep the rebate along with 4.89% for 60 mos.
I had a great buying experience. My husband loves his new car. So everyone is happy.
I really wanted a red one but the only one I found was more then an hour away and he wanted $28,225 and refused to match the above price. He said it was to good a deal to be true. Luckily my husband likes the silver just as much.
To those of you still looking there are deals to be made.
I am certainly not an expert but sounds good. I was quoted the following: 2005 Maxima SE 0 down 36 months 15K miles a year $385 a month.
If i paid Taxes/Title/Fees/first payment - roughly $1,500 in my state - payment would have dropped to $366
I really wanted an SE with a moon roof. That was $410 with nothing down and $390 with $1,500 down.
I so wish i could have bought it but my budget would have been stretched. A couple of years ago i purchased my dream car - a 2003 Max SE. I loved it!!!!! Ten months later i had to sell it - long story - has to do with a divorce. So, now i drive a fabulous 2004 Honda Civic with 117 ponies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the bright side - my monthly gas bill dropped from $130/month to $80.
Since i did buy the car - not sure what the residual price was.
Comments
I just purchased 2005 Maxima SE last night and paid 23k for it( Also lifetime free oil change warrenty free). It dosen't have nevigation system or aut seat adjustment etc but it is nicely equipped with dula AC and all othe statndard gadgets. Anyway the delership is DarCar Nissan in Rockville, Maryland. Great people great price.
Turns out that it is only in 2005s that came off assembly line after November of 04. Of course mine was built in September! I wish I knew as this was an important feature to me and I would have checked for it and could have picked another off the lot.
Any Nissan people on this board encounter this before?
:mad: ............ :mad: ........... :mad: ............. :mad: . :mad:
so in essence you would still be paying for it...
-thene
BTW, I am pretty impressed with the car.
Mine is Majestic Blue with Frost leather, DPP,Sensory,Xenons,power moonroof,Factory XM. Car looks very sharp and rides great.
Can someone tell me whether this is a good deal? and what the invoice price is?
Thanks
anyways, needless to say, you have a great deal going there!
-thene
2005 Maxima SL with DPP. Sticker Price is $32,750.
$395.00 per month with $1999 down - this includes 1st month payment.
Your prompt feed back is requested. I haven't leased in a while and I can't tell if I'm leaving money on the table. I don't have a trade-in.
Thanks!
What are the pro's and con's of either choice? Would I get the newer (and potentially better) car with the same price (Maxima SL 05 MSRP $32,480 with VDC/SunRoof/DPP), if I were to wait a bit for the newer 06 model to come out?
Your opinions and insights on this matter are greatly appreciated.
Thanks...George
Want to lease a 2005 Maxima SL with drivers preferred package, VDC, sunroof (also splash guards, XM – though don’t really need those – but it’s on the lot). Got a good initial offer from the dealer (I think) $26,895 – with the $1,250 rebate.
However, the lease price was $470/month. 0 down. 36 months and 15k. And I wasn’t happy with the person I talked to about it. Wouldn’t tell me “money factor” or what it would equate as APR. Wanted to get a price point. But also told him I wasn’t buying today and still had an Accord to compare. (Ruled out Camry. Liked Acura TL but didn’t meet needs.)
Internet lease price checked got me a $420/month quote.
I liked the Maxima a lot.
Then checked out Honda Accord EX and found Honda has a national lease deal at $249/month. 36 months and 12k. $1,500 down for that rate. (So I could go 0 down and get it for $300/month) Gen Sales Mgr was great at local dealer. Explained everything including 2.25% APR. No pressure. Offered to waive down payment. Initial offer from dealer of $23,058 for the EX.
What’s the deal? I’d select the Maxima over the Accord even with the higher Max sales price. But it’s not worth $7,920 more over 3 years to me (or apples to apples with 0 down $6,120).
Any deals on Maxima leases coming or that you’ve got? I’d go with Maxima if I could get a better lease deal.
Thanks for your help!
who is the dealer? I will come to D.C. if I can save that much.
As a 25-year IBM sales veteran and current executive, I buy the way I sell – considering more than just the lowest price, valuing service and support, and appreciating how fair business dealings lead to long-term relationships and repeat business. After researching cars for almost three months and deciding on the Maxima, a couple of weeks ago I faxed my interest in purchasing one to almost a dozen Nissan dealers in the central New Jersey area. I was quite specific, pointing out the exact configuration I was looking for and pronouncing myself ready to buy immediately. I shared with them that I had no trade-in and based on market pricing learned through Edmunds, expected to get the car for hundreds below invoice. Having never owned a Nissan, I had no dealer bias other than distance. My preference – assuming everything else being close to equal – would have been to buy from the dealer closest to my home. However, not all of course was equal. First off, some of the dealers eliminated themselves by their lack of timely response. Others refused to quote me a true “out-the-door” price in writing. And some who did padded their cost with items I didn’t request or want but they touted as “non-negotiable” -- such as $200 for VIN etching I found it somewhat ironic that the area’s only dealerships with totally clean records with both the NJ Division of Consumer Affairs and Better Business Bureau of NJ were the two who were offering both competitive out-the-door prices in writing and treated me in a professional way. I knew $500 below invoice was the best deal available because I walked out after they both put their final offer in writing, and both said even though they knew I might be buying elsewhere, they said that was the best they could do. I believed it. In the end, I chose my dealer because of three things: One, their complimentary loaner car program for appropriate scheduled maintenance; Two, the warm and “small-town” atmosphere of their store; and lastly, the professionalism and responsiveness of the salesman.
All in all, it was a great buying experience and I believe a great car. Thanks again to all of you who helped make it so.
-thene
sschumer since you are in NJ only a state away from Pa and you seemed to have worked on it pretty hard I feel comfortable that $400 to $600 under invoice is a good deal.
My experience so far:
nicest thing about it: the Maxima is simply a great looking car and visiting a dealership and seeing 10 Maximas lined up one after another makes your heart race.
worst thing about it: these dumb video clip/ power point emails that every dealer who has my email address sends to me that provide no information but claim to be an "on line dealership." They are sent out automatically and when you are waiting for a specific answer by email from a dealer you receive 2 or 3 of these that of course provide no real information and surely don't answer the specific questions I asked.
how it has been different from shopping for a Maxima in 2002: real reluctance from dealers in person and even by email to put their price in writing. Instead, I have gotten pricing verbally most of the time.
how it has been the same from shopping for a Maxima in 2002: I had one dealer email me how I was cheapening the brand by price shopping. Of course, this is the same dealer who has slogans like "we will not be undersold" and "we buy in volume so that you can save." In 2002, I had a similar email response from a dealer saying I was depleting the resale value of Maximas by buying under invoice.
most disappointing thing this time: I had a dealer email me a price on the exact car I wanted in the exact color combination with a price $750 under invoice. After I used that price with other dealers for a few hours, he retracted it as a mistake. I think he truly did make a mistake so I didn't make a big deal about it.
strangest dealer move: A dealer about an hour away responded to my price quote request by saying "spend a week getting your best price bring it to me and I will beat it by $500 or give you $500 check." I am now $600 south of invoice (plus $1250 cash back). So do I call him on this one? I assume there is no way he is going to sell it to me for $1100 under invoice. I know thenebean is going to say I should leave him off the hook because he probably expected me to come back to him with invoice or a little under but not $600 under.
I expect to buy by the end of the week. Visited three dealerships; emailed about 25. Worked with about 10 of those. Three salesperson have stood out as most professional and those are the three still in the running.
Thanks.
as far as that dealer who told you he'd beat the price by $500 or give you the check for $500, why not take him up on it? He offered it, see what happens! If he is going to guarantee something like that, let him eat his own words and deal with the loss. Hey, worst that could happen is they say no, right? ;-)
enjoy your maxima!
-thene
Regarding the I will beat it by 500 bucks guy, i did call him and he said he knows i am 600 under and will still do it. The downside: I would take at least 2 hours out of my day to get up there.
good luck whichever way you choose!
-thene
i will keep you posted.
First off, I was replacing a '97 Dodge Intrepid. And my key decision criteria in '05 was not disimilar from '97. As a 48 year-old family man with two (now teenage) sons, and someone who purchases cars and plans to keep for many years, I decided I still wanted and needed a family sedan and valued most (not in any particular order): Reliability and safety (VDC important), family size (rear seat room, trunk), looks / sportiness, and initial cost ($30K or under). The Maxima met all these criteria and more. I didn't choose the following cars because of the following reasons:
TOYOTA AVALON: Even more back seat room than the Maxima and as reliable, but didn't like looks, drives like a livingroom, is marketed as basically "an old(er) man's car," and cost thousands more comparably equipped.
ACURA TL: Colleague at work bought one in February, have driven in it a number of times since. Great car. But Consumer Reports (CR) lists reliability as only average (Maxima is very good, a shade under excellent), TL more expensive, smaller back seat and trunk, back seat doesn't fold down.
VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT: Average reliability at BEST. Whole Volkswagen line not good reliability per CR. Otherwise, I thought an excellent car from a feature / function standpoint. But fairly bland looks.
NISSAN ALTIMA: Reliability average. No VDC. Didn't like looks as much as Maxima. But was less expensive with many similar traits, i.e. rear seat room.
TOYOTA CAMRY: Excellent reliability and car, size of rear seat and trunk, comporable cost, maybe even a bit less. But find the looks very bland, just simply did not want the car so many others on the road drive.
HONDA ACCORD: Similar to Camry analysis above, although no VDC option and reliability above average, not excellent. A bit sportier handling and looks than the Camry, but still neither as good as the Maxima. No heated outside mirrors, smaller trunk as well.
Did for a short time look at some small SUV's, but decided another family sedan was best for me. However, if I had bought one, the Honda CRV would have been my clear-cut choice over the Ford Escape, Subaru Forester or Toyota RAV-4, based mostly on excellent reliability, much bigger back seat (leg room) than anything else (even mid-size SUV's), great feature in that the rear seats recline up to 45 degrees, cargo space, transmission, gas mileage and VDC.
One last item: I bought my Maxima in Spirited Bronze with Cafe Latte (camel) leather interior. Love the bronze / pewter color to begin with, let alone its uniqueness. Liked this exterior / interior color comibination better than any available in the six other cars listed above.
To each his own, but hope others find this helpful!
Transmission
5-Speed Automatic
Packages and Options
Driver Preferred Package $800
Power Glass Sunroof $900
Splash Guards $120
Accessories
Carpeted Floor & Trunk Mats $150 ((( price went up to 160 I believe)))
Base MSRP $29,600.00 ((( not the price went up I believe to 29,750)))
Total Packages, Options, & Accessories $1,970.00
Destination & Handling $580.00
Total MSRP† $32,150.00
asking price is $24,991. dealer says he would only go down to $23,991. Is this a good deal? He's not willing to negotiate any more than that and the car is beautiful!!!!!
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
the SL invoice without above on a 2005 is only 27,782 (most are between 150 and 300 less if they have been sitting there before price increases 27,482) - 1250 cash back is 26,232 . If you get a new one for 500 under invoice, 25,732. So for 1,740 you could have a new one. If any of the above is on it then, add the invoice price of the options on the 2005. Most 2005s also have traction control standard.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
get a copy of the used car's invoice or at least its sticker for all of the options.
Run those same options through edmunds for a 2005 SL with those options.
Get the invoice price; email exactly what you want to 5 to 8 dealers; ask them for there best price below invoice. Say you want to buy within 48 hours.
If any do not respond, call them and say you have not responded to by email. REFUSE TO GO to the dealership. When they tell you on the phone that they are not sure what email you are referring to, list each option, tell them to write it down and tell them to fax you the work up on your proposal with the invoice including ALL dealer fees. Be polite but firm.
If they give you crap, mention that your brother works for WXXX radio as a producer and he was just talking about doing a story "dealing with car dealers" and he was just asking you to give your experience - then ask the salesperson how to spell their last name. OK you don't have to do this; just say you are off my list.
After you got an email price, and a day or so has passed, email everyone and say "I got pricing and you need to beat 300 under to earn my business" (this number should be your best price- example 200- plus an extra hundred - I am not telling to lie because rightfully so if dealer ABC first told you 200 under, you would not buy from dealer XYZ for just matching it).
Depending where you live, you will get below 500 under without more than a day or so passing.
I saw in previous posts you mentioned about getting a gold extended warranty package. I just today purchased the Maxima and they offerred me a full scope of months / miles "Comprehensive" warranty all the way up to 84 or 96 months (various mile options). I opted for the 6 years / 72K miles for $1206. They didn't have anything listed as a Silver or Gold package. Is this the same thing? Is the price fair?
Also, bought the car which was stickered at 34,550 and an invoice at 31,532. Includes Nav, Driver Pref, Sunroof, Satellite Rad, Flr Mats, Splash Guards. Ended up getting it for 29,550 with rebate. Was this a fair deal? I felt comfortable with it, but at the same time every dealer I spoke with kept telling me that they don't want to lose to price. What exactly is the bottom line for these guys. It seems that everytime a dealer gives a quote, the other guy can beat it.
Your expertise is always appreciated.
Trav
As far as the price, it looks like a very fair and aggressive price to me. dealers can almost always beat another deal by $100 bucks...and depending on market, where their numbers are for the month - what they need to accomplish to receive an extra bonus from the factory (sometimes nissan will give dealers extra cash back, $250 or so, for every unit they sell of a specific make if they exceed their monthly goal). there are a lot of factors that will determine the best a dealer can do on a vehicle. as long as you know what you can afford, the process is pleasant and without dishonesty or weird fees, and you are happy with what you are paying, and the process, and the vehicle...thats all that matters! sure, someone out there will pay less than you did (that is ALWAYS the case...) but maybe their experience was long and drawn out, or they had to haggle their weekends away to get that price. they may also not get great service when they go back to the dealer, knowing that this guy took them for all they were worth and then some...
buying a car is different for everyone - you find what works, and what makes the process pleasant (it should be exciting, after all!) and you go with it.
good luck!
-thene
The car is awesome! It was between this and the 2006 BMW 325i. You get more for your money with this car and I was able to fit my family in comfortably. (Important to the wife :P )
dealers will always feed you the "get your prices then come back to me and i'll beat it" game. in a way, it makes sense to the dealer - all you gotta do now is beat what they come back with, instead of giving a number and losing you to someone else.
there should be a balance between great price, and great experience!
-thene
Can you also tell me what sort of insurance minimums are spelled out in the contract?
Thanks!
I am considering the Maxima.You said unless your putting down a "ton of money"
the Nissan special financing works out better then the rebate.I am assuming
4k does not quailify as a ton of money? So with 4k down would I be better
off with the higher price and the special financing?
thanks, Paul
-thene
The higher the rebate, and the lesser the price of the vehicle, that threshold goes down...but in your case, unless you put around $10k down or so, the financing will be a much better deal for you payment wise.
good luck in your purchase!
-thene
Can you give your opinion on the quote I received
on a lease for the Maxima SE.I am in Columbus,Oh
2500.00 down (includes all fees and first payment)
315.00 a month
36 months
15k miles a year
residual price>14,513.00
I have not even begun to negotiate, is their room for the dealer to come down on the monthly payment or the residual price?....Thanks!!
-thene
These quotes included the rebate!
Thanks.
2005 SL - DPP, sunroof, satellite radio, splash guards, floor mats and trunk mat, tcs.
Sticker - 32,550
Invoice - 29,672
Paid - 27,587 that's with the 1250 rebate and dealer holdback (does not include tax, tags and dealer fees.) I also purchased the Gold Preferred Plus 60 mos - 100, 000 for $893. He said that was $50 over his invoice price. ?? I had to actually ask the finance guy to show me the vehicle protection plans.
I usually do not buy the ext warranty but this is bumper to bumper through Nissan and there is a lot of gadgets in this car that could become expensive to fix. I almost took the 3% finance and gave up the rebate but the finance guy let me keep the rebate along with 4.89% for 60 mos.
I had a great buying experience. My husband loves his new car. So everyone is happy.
I really wanted a red one but the only one I found was more then an hour away and he wanted $28,225 and refused to match the above price. He said it was to good a deal to be true. Luckily my husband likes the silver just as much.
To those of you still looking there are deals to be made.
jrsygrlnoh
Maxima se ,no additonal options.
msrp 27,910
selling price with rebate 24 654
thanks
I was quoted the following:
2005 Maxima SE
0 down
36 months
15K miles a year
$385 a month.
If i paid Taxes/Title/Fees/first payment - roughly $1,500 in my state - payment would have dropped to $366
I really wanted an SE with a moon roof.
That was $410 with nothing down and $390 with $1,500 down.
I so wish i could have bought it but my budget would have been stretched. A couple of years ago i purchased my dream car - a 2003 Max SE. I loved it!!!!! Ten months later i had to sell it - long story - has to do with a divorce. So, now i drive a fabulous 2004 Honda Civic with 117 ponies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the bright side - my monthly gas bill dropped from $130/month to $80.
Since i did buy the car - not sure what the residual price was.