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I just purchased 2005 Maxima SE last night and paid 23k for it( Also lifetime free oil change warrenty free). It dosen't have nevigation system or aut seat adjustment etc but it is nicely equipped with dula AC and all othe statndard gadgets. Anyway the delership is DarCar Nissan in Rockville, Maryland. Great people great price.
Turns out that it is only in 2005s that came off assembly line after November of 04. Of course mine was built in September! I wish I knew as this was an important feature to me and I would have checked for it and could have picked another off the lot.
Any Nissan people on this board encounter this before?
:mad: ............ :mad: ........... :mad: ............. :mad: . :mad:
so in essence you would still be paying for it...
-thene
BTW, I am pretty impressed with the car.
Mine is Majestic Blue with Frost leather, DPP,Sensory,Xenons,power moonroof,Factory XM. Car looks very sharp and rides great.
Can someone tell me whether this is a good deal? and what the invoice price is?
Thanks
anyways, needless to say, you have a great deal going there!
-thene
2005 Maxima SL with DPP. Sticker Price is $32,750.
$395.00 per month with $1999 down - this includes 1st month payment.
Your prompt feed back is requested. I haven't leased in a while and I can't tell if I'm leaving money on the table. I don't have a trade-in.
Thanks!
What are the pro's and con's of either choice? Would I get the newer (and potentially better) car with the same price (Maxima SL 05 MSRP $32,480 with VDC/SunRoof/DPP), if I were to wait a bit for the newer 06 model to come out?
Your opinions and insights on this matter are greatly appreciated.
Thanks...George
Want to lease a 2005 Maxima SL with drivers preferred package, VDC, sunroof (also splash guards, XM – though don’t really need those – but it’s on the lot). Got a good initial offer from the dealer (I think) $26,895 – with the $1,250 rebate.
However, the lease price was $470/month. 0 down. 36 months and 15k. And I wasn’t happy with the person I talked to about it. Wouldn’t tell me “money factor” or what it would equate as APR. Wanted to get a price point. But also told him I wasn’t buying today and still had an Accord to compare. (Ruled out Camry. Liked Acura TL but didn’t meet needs.)
Internet lease price checked got me a $420/month quote.
I liked the Maxima a lot.
Then checked out Honda Accord EX and found Honda has a national lease deal at $249/month. 36 months and 12k. $1,500 down for that rate. (So I could go 0 down and get it for $300/month) Gen Sales Mgr was great at local dealer. Explained everything including 2.25% APR. No pressure. Offered to waive down payment. Initial offer from dealer of $23,058 for the EX.
What’s the deal? I’d select the Maxima over the Accord even with the higher Max sales price. But it’s not worth $7,920 more over 3 years to me (or apples to apples with 0 down $6,120).
Any deals on Maxima leases coming or that you’ve got? I’d go with Maxima if I could get a better lease deal.
Thanks for your help!
who is the dealer? I will come to D.C. if I can save that much.
As a 25-year IBM sales veteran and current executive, I buy the way I sell – considering more than just the lowest price, valuing service and support, and appreciating how fair business dealings lead to long-term relationships and repeat business. After researching cars for almost three months and deciding on the Maxima, a couple of weeks ago I faxed my interest in purchasing one to almost a dozen Nissan dealers in the central New Jersey area. I was quite specific, pointing out the exact configuration I was looking for and pronouncing myself ready to buy immediately. I shared with them that I had no trade-in and based on market pricing learned through Edmunds, expected to get the car for hundreds below invoice. Having never owned a Nissan, I had no dealer bias other than distance. My preference – assuming everything else being close to equal – would have been to buy from the dealer closest to my home. However, not all of course was equal. First off, some of the dealers eliminated themselves by their lack of timely response. Others refused to quote me a true “out-the-door” price in writing. And some who did padded their cost with items I didn’t request or want but they touted as “non-negotiable” -- such as $200 for VIN etching I found it somewhat ironic that the area’s only dealerships with totally clean records with both the NJ Division of Consumer Affairs and Better Business Bureau of NJ were the two who were offering both competitive out-the-door prices in writing and treated me in a professional way. I knew $500 below invoice was the best deal available because I walked out after they both put their final offer in writing, and both said even though they knew I might be buying elsewhere, they said that was the best they could do. I believed it. In the end, I chose my dealer because of three things: One, their complimentary loaner car program for appropriate scheduled maintenance; Two, the warm and “small-town” atmosphere of their store; and lastly, the professionalism and responsiveness of the salesman.
All in all, it was a great buying experience and I believe a great car. Thanks again to all of you who helped make it so.
-thene
sschumer since you are in NJ only a state away from Pa and you seemed to have worked on it pretty hard I feel comfortable that $400 to $600 under invoice is a good deal.
My experience so far:
nicest thing about it: the Maxima is simply a great looking car and visiting a dealership and seeing 10 Maximas lined up one after another makes your heart race.
worst thing about it: these dumb video clip/ power point emails that every dealer who has my email address sends to me that provide no information but claim to be an "on line dealership." They are sent out automatically and when you are waiting for a specific answer by email from a dealer you receive 2 or 3 of these that of course provide no real information and surely don't answer the specific questions I asked.
how it has been different from shopping for a Maxima in 2002: real reluctance from dealers in person and even by email to put their price in writing. Instead, I have gotten pricing verbally most of the time.
how it has been the same from shopping for a Maxima in 2002: I had one dealer email me how I was cheapening the brand by price shopping. Of course, this is the same dealer who has slogans like "we will not be undersold" and "we buy in volume so that you can save." In 2002, I had a similar email response from a dealer saying I was depleting the resale value of Maximas by buying under invoice.
most disappointing thing this time: I had a dealer email me a price on the exact car I wanted in the exact color combination with a price $750 under invoice. After I used that price with other dealers for a few hours, he retracted it as a mistake. I think he truly did make a mistake so I didn't make a big deal about it.
strangest dealer move: A dealer about an hour away responded to my price quote request by saying "spend a week getting your best price bring it to me and I will beat it by $500 or give you $500 check." I am now $600 south of invoice (plus $1250 cash back). So do I call him on this one? I assume there is no way he is going to sell it to me for $1100 under invoice. I know thenebean is going to say I should leave him off the hook because he probably expected me to come back to him with invoice or a little under but not $600 under.
I expect to buy by the end of the week. Visited three dealerships; emailed about 25. Worked with about 10 of those. Three salesperson have stood out as most professional and those are the three still in the running.
Thanks.
as far as that dealer who told you he'd beat the price by $500 or give you the check for $500, why not take him up on it? He offered it, see what happens! If he is going to guarantee something like that, let him eat his own words and deal with the loss. Hey, worst that could happen is they say no, right? ;-)
enjoy your maxima!
-thene
Regarding the I will beat it by 500 bucks guy, i did call him and he said he knows i am 600 under and will still do it. The downside: I would take at least 2 hours out of my day to get up there.
good luck whichever way you choose!
-thene
i will keep you posted.
First off, I was replacing a '97 Dodge Intrepid. And my key decision criteria in '05 was not disimilar from '97. As a 48 year-old family man with two (now teenage) sons, and someone who purchases cars and plans to keep for many years, I decided I still wanted and needed a family sedan and valued most (not in any particular order): Reliability and safety (VDC important), family size (rear seat room, trunk), looks / sportiness, and initial cost ($30K or under). The Maxima met all these criteria and more. I didn't choose the following cars because of the following reasons:
TOYOTA AVALON: Even more back seat room than the Maxima and as reliable, but didn't like looks, drives like a livingroom, is marketed as basically "an old(er) man's car," and cost thousands more comparably equipped.
ACURA TL: Colleague at work bought one in February, have driven in it a number of times since. Great car. But Consumer Reports (CR) lists reliability as only average (Maxima is very good, a shade under excellent), TL more expensive, smaller back seat and trunk, back seat doesn't fold down.
VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT: Average reliability at BEST. Whole Volkswagen line not good reliability per CR. Otherwise, I thought an excellent car from a feature / function standpoint. But fairly bland looks.
NISSAN ALTIMA: Reliability average. No VDC. Didn't like looks as much as Maxima. But was less expensive with many similar traits, i.e. rear seat room.
TOYOTA CAMRY: Excellent reliability and car, size of rear seat and trunk, comporable cost, maybe even a bit less. But find the looks very bland, just simply did not want the car so many others on the road drive.
HONDA ACCORD: Similar to Camry analysis above, although no VDC option and reliability above average, not excellent. A bit sportier handling and looks than the Camry, but still neither as good as the Maxima. No heated outside mirrors, smaller trunk as well.
Did for a short time look at some small SUV's, but decided another family sedan was best for me. However, if I had bought one, the Honda CRV would have been my clear-cut choice over the Ford Escape, Subaru Forester or Toyota RAV-4, based mostly on excellent reliability, much bigger back seat (leg room) than anything else (even mid-size SUV's), great feature in that the rear seats recline up to 45 degrees, cargo space, transmission, gas mileage and VDC.
One last item: I bought my Maxima in Spirited Bronze with Cafe Latte (camel) leather interior. Love the bronze / pewter color to begin with, let alone its uniqueness. Liked this exterior / interior color comibination better than any available in the six other cars listed above.
To each his own, but hope others find this helpful!
Transmission
5-Speed Automatic
Packages and Options
Driver Preferred Package $800
Power Glass Sunroof $900
Splash Guards $120
Accessories
Carpeted Floor & Trunk Mats $150 ((( price went up to 160 I believe)))
Base MSRP $29,600.00 ((( not the price went up I believe to 29,750)))
Total Packages, Options, & Accessories $1,970.00
Destination & Handling $580.00
Total MSRP† $32,150.00
asking price is $24,991. dealer says he would only go down to $23,991. Is this a good deal? He's not willing to negotiate any more than that and the car is beautiful!!!!!
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
the SL invoice without above on a 2005 is only 27,782 (most are between 150 and 300 less if they have been sitting there before price increases 27,482) - 1250 cash back is 26,232 . If you get a new one for 500 under invoice, 25,732. So for 1,740 you could have a new one. If any of the above is on it then, add the invoice price of the options on the 2005. Most 2005s also have traction control standard.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
get a copy of the used car's invoice or at least its sticker for all of the options.
Run those same options through edmunds for a 2005 SL with those options.
Get the invoice price; email exactly what you want to 5 to 8 dealers; ask them for there best price below invoice. Say you want to buy within 48 hours.
If any do not respond, call them and say you have not responded to by email. REFUSE TO GO to the dealership. When they tell you on the phone that they are not sure what email you are referring to, list each option, tell them to write it down and tell them to fax you the work up on your proposal with the invoice including ALL dealer fees. Be polite but firm.
If they give you crap, mention that your brother works for WXXX radio as a producer and he was just talking about doing a story "dealing with car dealers" and he was just asking you to give your experience - then ask the salesperson how to spell their last name. OK you don't have to do this; just say you are off my list.
After you got an email price, and a day or so has passed, email everyone and say "I got pricing and you need to beat 300 under to earn my business" (this number should be your best price- example 200- plus an extra hundred - I am not telling to lie because rightfully so if dealer ABC first told you 200 under, you would not buy from dealer XYZ for just matching it).
Depending where you live, you will get below 500 under without more than a day or so passing.
I saw in previous posts you mentioned about getting a gold extended warranty package. I just today purchased the Maxima and they offerred me a full scope of months / miles "Comprehensive" warranty all the way up to 84 or 96 months (various mile options). I opted for the 6 years / 72K miles for $1206. They didn't have anything listed as a Silver or Gold package. Is this the same thing? Is the price fair?
Also, bought the car which was stickered at 34,550 and an invoice at 31,532. Includes Nav, Driver Pref, Sunroof, Satellite Rad, Flr Mats, Splash Guards. Ended up getting it for 29,550 with rebate. Was this a fair deal? I felt comfortable with it, but at the same time every dealer I spoke with kept telling me that they don't want to lose to price. What exactly is the bottom line for these guys. It seems that everytime a dealer gives a quote, the other guy can beat it.
Your expertise is always appreciated.
Trav
As far as the price, it looks like a very fair and aggressive price to me. dealers can almost always beat another deal by $100 bucks...and depending on market, where their numbers are for the month - what they need to accomplish to receive an extra bonus from the factory (sometimes nissan will give dealers extra cash back, $250 or so, for every unit they sell of a specific make if they exceed their monthly goal). there are a lot of factors that will determine the best a dealer can do on a vehicle. as long as you know what you can afford, the process is pleasant and without dishonesty or weird fees, and you are happy with what you are paying, and the process, and the vehicle...thats all that matters! sure, someone out there will pay less than you did (that is ALWAYS the case...) but maybe their experience was long and drawn out, or they had to haggle their weekends away to get that price. they may also not get great service when they go back to the dealer, knowing that this guy took them for all they were worth and then some...
buying a car is different for everyone - you find what works, and what makes the process pleasant (it should be exciting, after all!) and you go with it.
good luck!
-thene
The car is awesome! It was between this and the 2006 BMW 325i. You get more for your money with this car and I was able to fit my family in comfortably. (Important to the wife :P )
dealers will always feed you the "get your prices then come back to me and i'll beat it" game. in a way, it makes sense to the dealer - all you gotta do now is beat what they come back with, instead of giving a number and losing you to someone else.
there should be a balance between great price, and great experience!
-thene
Can you also tell me what sort of insurance minimums are spelled out in the contract?
Thanks!
I am considering the Maxima.You said unless your putting down a "ton of money"
the Nissan special financing works out better then the rebate.I am assuming
4k does not quailify as a ton of money? So with 4k down would I be better
off with the higher price and the special financing?
thanks, Paul
-thene
The higher the rebate, and the lesser the price of the vehicle, that threshold goes down...but in your case, unless you put around $10k down or so, the financing will be a much better deal for you payment wise.
good luck in your purchase!
-thene
Can you give your opinion on the quote I received
on a lease for the Maxima SE.I am in Columbus,Oh
2500.00 down (includes all fees and first payment)
315.00 a month
36 months
15k miles a year
residual price>14,513.00
I have not even begun to negotiate, is their room for the dealer to come down on the monthly payment or the residual price?....Thanks!!
-thene
These quotes included the rebate!
Thanks.
2005 SL - DPP, sunroof, satellite radio, splash guards, floor mats and trunk mat, tcs.
Sticker - 32,550
Invoice - 29,672
Paid - 27,587 that's with the 1250 rebate and dealer holdback (does not include tax, tags and dealer fees.) I also purchased the Gold Preferred Plus 60 mos - 100, 000 for $893. He said that was $50 over his invoice price. ?? I had to actually ask the finance guy to show me the vehicle protection plans.
I usually do not buy the ext warranty but this is bumper to bumper through Nissan and there is a lot of gadgets in this car that could become expensive to fix. I almost took the 3% finance and gave up the rebate but the finance guy let me keep the rebate along with 4.89% for 60 mos.
I had a great buying experience. My husband loves his new car. So everyone is happy.
I really wanted a red one but the only one I found was more then an hour away and he wanted $28,225 and refused to match the above price. He said it was to good a deal to be true. Luckily my husband likes the silver just as much.
To those of you still looking there are deals to be made.
jrsygrlnoh
Maxima se ,no additonal options.
msrp 27,910
selling price with rebate 24 654
thanks
I was quoted the following:
2005 Maxima SE
0 down
36 months
15K miles a year
$385 a month.
If i paid Taxes/Title/Fees/first payment - roughly $1,500 in my state - payment would have dropped to $366
I really wanted an SE with a moon roof.
That was $410 with nothing down and $390 with $1,500 down.
I so wish i could have bought it but my budget would have been stretched. A couple of years ago i purchased my dream car - a 2003 Max SE. I loved it!!!!! Ten months later i had to sell it - long story - has to do with a divorce. So, now i drive a fabulous 2004 Honda Civic with 117 ponies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the bright side - my monthly gas bill dropped from $130/month to $80.
Since i did buy the car - not sure what the residual price was.