My manual for my 97 LX says to change the ATF at 90K intervals for normal driving conditions. Thought my almost 100% highway miles would qualify as normal or have fewer heat related ATF breakdown issues. Well I got a tranny CEL at a little over 70K and the tranny fluid was a little brown and smelly. Now I change tranny fluid using Honda ATF at under 30K intervals. Am at about 128K and no problems. Hope to get at least 250K out of this car with no major problems.
If you change your own ATF-drive the vehicle for at least 50 miles before changing the ATF and don't let it sit long before draining the old out. Keeps the crap in suspension. Watch out when removing the plug as the ATF will be hot enough to badly burn you if it touches you skin. It really squirts out so I wear a heavy glove and heavy old parka to protect my arm and hand.
Really easier to change ATF than oil so there is no reason to go to dealer for this service. Can do mine in less than 5 minutes.
I agree bburton, it really is easy. Haven't done my Accord yet, but with my CRV the only tools I need are a 3/8" ratchet head and a long tube funnel and no need to raise the vehicle.
I recently purchased a 98 Accord V-6 sedan. 49K miles on it now. Purchased it when it had 46K miles on it. Here's the deal. When shifting gears from 3-4 it has a slipping\jerk to it that occurs always. Dealer has looked at it and someone rode with me. To my dismay neither of which recognized that there was a harsh shifting pattern. Going from 1-2-3 is as smooth as silk. So all of you on the message board that think these tranny comments are nit-picky, think again. I've always driven Hondas but I'll be the first to tell you that I am not accustomed to taking my Honda in for repetitive service. I keep hearing about abrupt downshifts in some 98-99 models as well as clunking noises when backing up. Luckily I have not experienced those headaches. Anyway, I have also had to take my Accord in for a faulty fuel gauge and I am in the process now of getting an appointment scheduled for the Honda dealer to inspect why my car flunctuates (rpm's) repeatedly at times after being started. But there's more! I also had to have the emissions control valve replaced about a month ago. Constant flapping noise underneath the car when idling. Does anyone see a pattern here? I have owned a 89' Accord, 89' Prelude Si, 92' Prelude, 94 Accord EX, and a 97' Prelude. All of which never gave problems such as this Accord. I'm starting to think that I should have paid the extra cash and bought a 99-00 TL. So there you have it. I can't speak for all Hondas, but the one that I recently purchased sure isn't living up to the standards that previous Hondas had that I owned. Any comments are welcome.
I am shocked to see all these messages about Accord transmission problems. I took my car in for its routine service this past weekend and kindly asked for them to check the transmission b/c the pickup on my car was off. Come to find out that it's not the fluid but instead--a serious problem with the transmission. I was told my car could continue to run like this for a few months or a few years. The only way to fix it is to get a NEW TRANSMISSION. The cost? $6,000. All for a car that I've had for only two years. I was told to call customer service and see if they might SPLIT the cost with me, however, I should not be having this MAJOR PROBLEM at 50K miles. This is absolutely disheartening for a car I purchased as an investment and something I could get at least 150K miles out of. Can anyone provide with me with some direction on how I might get Honda to acknowledge this problem and replace a transmission that is obviously faulty? I appreciate any help or comments that you have.
I am sorry to see your post about transmission problems. There are other people on this message board that can help you more than I can and I am sure they will but I would like to offer you some advice. I would check with other Honda dealers or local private Honda mechanics to pinpoint the problem. I am weary when someone says you can drive the car for months or years, Does this sound like you need a new transmission? Also most of the fixes are with remanufactured transmissions. Be careful you were smart to come to this board and good luck!
Hey all! Jesus, so many complaints about honda accords!! Well, ALL these problems with the tranny, you can basically squish them together and thats what I have. Every problem related to the tranny, I am experiencing right now. I got into an accident about a year and half ago. and I regulary change my fluids. RIght now, i'm in the 3rd cycle of changing tranny fluid; unplug from bottom, drain fluid(its only about half, the rest of fluid is in the transmission?), then i put about 3 and half quarts of honda atf. I do this every oil change and i plan on doing it 2 or 3 more times. Well, the BIGGEST problem i have is that when i floor it and make RPM go past 3500, it wont shift to next gear. It clunks, then it revs high, then it shifts in gear. It does this on all gears. WHAT DO I DO???? I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO. Do i take it to dealer? PRivate shop? HELP! My friend works at honda dealer and he can *lie* about my mileage so its under warranty. Should i do that?
I agree with Inkie, take it to someone else. But I also think you over reacted. You say the pickup on your car was off? That can be caused by a whole bunch of things, but I would not suspect the tranny. Did your transmission shift smoothly? Do you know and trust this dealer? Some of the dealers I know here would be seeing dollar signs in their eyes if someone came in like that.
I had one dealer tell me my car needed $1000. in brake work. I didn't have it done since the brakes seemed fine, had taken it in for something else. The car needed front brake pads a year later, so I took it to a shop I had recently found and trusted. They replaced the front pads, turned the rotors, repacked the front wheel bearings, checked and adjusted the rear drums, all for $175.
I don't think you'll have much luck getting Honda to replace your tranny, but give it a try anyway and let us know how you make out.
enlighten me on the transmission oil changes, I intend to do the changes myself when my 2000 v6's milage is at 30,000 my question is: I know it looks like a sealed pan but doesn't it need filter changes or at least cleaning if its a mesh filter? How is that accomplished? or does Honda have a different system? Thanks.
Honda transmissions do have an internal screen prior to the ATF pump but it is not accessible without a major teardown of the transmission. The drain plug, however, does have a magnet which can trap some foreign material. While the lack of a replaceable filter may seem to be a weakness in the design, in practice these transmissions hold up quite well with periodic fluid changes. I consider it low-cost insurance to replace the ATF somewhat more frequently than 30K miles. The 3/8" square drive on a socket-driver extension or ratchet fits the drain plug. Note that the oil companys' tech service departments agree with Honda that the Honda brand ATF should be used. Honda's ATF is similar to the more common Dexron III - but not quite the same thing.
Thank you for this explanation, I have always driven and serviced american made cars so between this excellant message board and some of the cheap auto store manuals I am learning about Hondas. I think it maybe to my advantage to purchase the shop manuals from Helm even though the manuals are more expensive than the ones for many GM's & Fords. Thanx again and I will now consider changing the fluid at 20k or so with honda's ATF.
I've changed the tranny fluid in my CRV twice, it now has 53K miles. The first time it had quite a bit of metal shavings attached to the drain plug. The second time it had next to nothing. I plan on changing this once a year and I drive about 18K miles per year. It really is easy service to do yourself. Not sure about the Accord yet, but with my CRV I need a funnel with a long kinda thin tube.
I bought my CRV shop manual at helminc.com for less than $70., pretty cheap considering what I've saved doing my maint. myself.
There may be bunches of people having transmission trouble with their V6 Accords, but I still don't really see any proof here. I see dslacI had problems with a used V6, but who knows what it's history is. Also, this person complains "I have also had to take my Accord in for a faulty fuel gauge and I am in the process now of getting an appointment scheduled for the Honda dealer to inspect why my car flunctuates (rpm's) repeatedly at times after being started. But there's more! I also had to have the emissions control valve replaced about a month ago. Constant flapping noise underneath the car when idling. Does anyone see a pattern here?" Well, the pattern I see is that all these fluctuation problems, emission control problems, and flapping noises are related. It could well be that they are all of the same source. And if they are caused by an emissions control device, they are under warranty, even if the extended warranty wasn't purchased. So, this isn't proof of chronic, year after year trans problems. Then sleighgirl says she was told she had "major" trans problems because the car didn't accelerate as it should. Prudence would dictate a getting a second opinion on that one. Maybe that diagnosis is correct, but there are too many other potential causes, many of them minor and inexpensive to repair, to drop that kind of money on such a major component. And $6000 to replace the trans? I don't think so. Something about that story doesn't hold water, IMHO. Next, hondaccordguy claims his trans is failing, but the car was in an accident, by his own admission. Is this a valid example by which to judge all V6 Accords? Personally, I don't really think so. By the way accordguy, the trans fluid that doesn't come out when you drain it is not still in the trans, it's in the torque converter.
I dunno, maybe I am just too hard to convince. It's not that I think Honda's are such super automobiles. They're good, but not perfect. I don't go around telling everyone I know how wonderful my Ody is. It's just that it seems to me that a few bits of info here are extrapolated into a "fact" that there is a current and ongoing issue with these transmissions. The TSBs on NHTSA website don't spell it out. It's just one TSB, with the same TSB number and issue date, placed on all model years. That would seem to indicate a fairly recently discovered problem that they decided applies to all back to 98. But what is the problem, some sort of missing plug? Doesn't sound so major. If it is major, where's the proof?
I know that some tranny fluid is in the torque converter, but i just forgot what it was called... "Torque converter". ALso, i just drained my tranny fluid, cuz i had way too much. It still has the same problems, but when i drove home from work, it kinda subsided, but i know it's still there. Also, the accident I was in only damaged my radiator, hood, and right fender. Everything else was fine. motor was fine too. I was going about 20 mph. ***IF IT IS THE TORQUE CONVERTER THAT HAS TO BE REPLACED, HOW MUCH WOULD IT COST???***
Let me inform u... I'm assuming that you "sell" hondas. Well, I had tramsission problems as stated above and did a little investigating. I went to 2 Honda dealerships and talked with the service tech. I was being real with them and so were they. They both said.... EXACTLY, "Honda's have GREAT engines, but *[non-permissible content removed]* trannys." Soooooo.... Based from all the complaints, and from the advice from the service technicians, i am convinced that Honda's are crappy and that I'm not going to buy another one for a while.
At least isellhondas is up front about what he does. I often wonder how many people here have a real financial interst in the reputation of particular makes. The poor SOBs with sludged up Toyotas were made to feel like jerks and fools for over a year until Toyota started a "goodwill" program. Lots of makers have had little "problems" (Ford and Chrysler with blown head gaskets for instance), and instituted not well publicized programs to extend warranties to take care of the problems. I don't think that in the long run it helps a maker to pretend that there is no problem (higher than normal failure rates) when there is one. There are just too many places on the Internet to find out what the "real deal" is for stonewalling to work the way it used to.
Go to this website, click on "Auto Defects", then click on any particular make and model, then form an opinion about who makes better cars. Honda has had some problems, that are all listed. But Hondas are in a class way above "American" cards.
I had two transmissions replaced in my V-6 by Honda. The second time was the last time as I traded it in as I didn't feel like going through this again for a third time.
Honda does have excellent engines but their transmissions in the V-6's are troublesome. You pay good money for a car and you don't want trouble TWICE!
Just thought I would add to the conversation and hope you heed my personal warning!
I know this is a subject that does not sit well with you. Reading rbruehl's post reminds me of a question I had when the messages about this poor guys tranny was hot and heavy. My question is why does'nt Honda put new tested transmissions in? Why do they put rebuilts in? and where do these rebuilts come from, Honda? or local shops that the dealer chooses? I have a 2000V6 smooth as silk but if I had a problem during the warranty period I would expect a new one or a rebuilt that was throughly checked out. .
I believe the dealer will install a factory remanufactured uit. these are as good and perhaps even better than a new unit.
The reason being, most of the parts in a transmission aren't subject to wear. The parts that do wear are replaced and often updated with upgraded materials.
The local transmission shops do the same thing but often cut corners. The quality can vary by quite a bit.
I would suggest changing at 30K, using only Honda ATF and drive the car at least 30 or more miles to get the ATF hot-gets the gradoo in suspension. When removing the plug-BE CAREFUL-the ATF is really hot-always wear heavy gloves and several layers of stuff on my arms. You will need a funnel with a long hose on the end to fill with.
To all those guys knocking honda's - keep it up any thing that will help me get better deals when I buy my next one is appreciated.
I drive lots of different rental cars when I travel-some of them nearly new-mostly domestic-they are better than they were 20 years ago but they are chasing a moving target.
Not to beat a dead horse, but I do have a transmission question for you EX V6 owners.
I've had my EX V6 for almost a year now and have 16k miles on it. Though I haven't had any transmission problems as of yet, and it shifts smoothly most of the time under normal operation, I do find it at times a bit quirky.
My biggest beef is when I approach a stop or yield sign, If I do a "rolling" stop, instead of a complete stop, when I press the accelerator, the transmission seems to "studder", "skip" or shift hard.
Actually I'm not sure what it is doing. One theory I have is that maybe the grade-logic is holding second gear and then quickly slams to first when I start to accelerate? The only way I can avoid this is if I come to a complete stop, then accelerate; or initially gently accelerate after coming to a rolling stop.
This is very annoying and I find myself changing my driving habits to avoid it from happening. Is this normal? Does anyone else experiance this problem?
codog, I notice the same thing with my V6 Accord. If I've slowed to perhaps 5 or 10 mph and the light turns green and I step on the gas I sometimes get a hard shift or shudder. I assumed like you that it is a "surprise" downshift to 1st gear. I've never thought of it as a problem, really. Overall, I'm very satisfied with my V6 transmission.
IMHO the "thunking" transmission problem is not uncommon in Hondas. My CRV does the same thing. There was an interesting discussion about this on the CRV board not long ago that gave a good description and explanation.
My former V-6 Accord did the same "hunting" sensation between first and second. The next thing I knew, the car was being towed off to the Honda dealership. Mine happened after the powertrain warranty expired but Honda did repair it the first as well as the second time around. In my case, I didn't want a third trip so I sold the car.
So many of the manufacturers have hidden warranties that they offer to the car buyer when a problem arises. Ford was notorious for this with paint jobs in the mid to late 1970's right up to the mid 1990's. Same goes for Honda with its fabled "fuel sending units" that still cause problems to this day. You make a stink with Honda even after your warranty period is over and Honda will replace the unit free of charge. They call it "one time customer" free fix.
I know a guy that when he buys a car always opts for the best extended warranty available. He did this on his last 5 cars he purchased. The one thing he fails to realize is that he trades his car in every 3 years. I asked him why he does this and he replied, "I don't want any problems". The guy is 72 years old so you can't change him since he is from "the Old School". Ironically, he always buys some of the most dependable cars on the market in Honda, Toyota and Nissan.
I just replaced my old tranny with a refurbished one from honda. I believe the actual problem lies within the torque converter, BUT when I got the new tranny, I do not believe they replaced the torque converter. Do I have to worry about it? or will the new tranny take care of the problem?
I would call the dealership up and asked them if they replaced your torque converter with the transmission. Also, make sure that the dealership gave you a warranty in writing regarding your transmission replacement.
My 2000 LX (40,000 mi)has another problem now. When I start the car, the gas pedal always seems hard to push. Only after the firt heavy press (the car will jerk foward), the gas pedal then seems nomal again. If I park the car for more than 1 hour, the gas pedal feels heavy (sticy) again for the first press. Who can help me to identify the problem or give me advice?
Remove the air intake ducting, open the throttle plate, and check for black, gummy residue in the throttle body and on the back side of the throttle plate. Aerosol throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush will get rid of it.
Jees... I have a 2000 v6 accord with 55k miles on it. About 3 months ago, i had to replace my thermostat cuz my car kept overheating. a week ago, I had my transmission replaced. NOW, my car is once overheating again and I am pissed off. Off to the mechanics I go... Anyone know what might be the problem? I think that the guy i went to originally to fix my thermostat did a $hitty job on my car.
Does anyone know where the Honda Pilot will be built? USA, Canada or Japan? Will it have the same V-6 as the Honda Accord? How about the same infamous transmission?
Comments
If you change your own ATF-drive the vehicle for at least 50 miles before changing the ATF and don't let it sit long before draining the old out. Keeps the crap in suspension. Watch out when removing the plug as the ATF will be hot enough to badly burn you if it touches you skin. It really squirts out so I wear a heavy glove and heavy old parka to protect my arm and hand.
Really easier to change ATF than oil so there is no reason to go to dealer for this service. Can do mine in less than 5 minutes.
I had one dealer tell me my car needed $1000. in brake work. I didn't have it done since the brakes seemed fine, had taken it in for something else. The car needed front brake pads a year later, so I took it to a shop I had recently found and trusted. They replaced the front pads, turned the rotors, repacked the front wheel bearings, checked and adjusted the rear drums, all for $175.
I don't think you'll have much luck getting Honda to replace your tranny, but give it a try anyway and let us know how you make out.
I bought my CRV shop manual at helminc.com for less than $70., pretty cheap considering what I've saved doing my maint. myself.
I dunno, maybe I am just too hard to convince. It's not that I think Honda's are such super automobiles. They're good, but not perfect. I don't go around telling everyone I know how wonderful my Ody is. It's just that it seems to me that a few bits of info here are extrapolated into a "fact" that there is a current and ongoing issue with these transmissions. The TSBs on NHTSA website don't spell it out. It's just one TSB, with the same TSB number and issue date, placed on all model years. That would seem to indicate a fairly recently discovered problem that they decided applies to all back to 98. But what is the problem, some sort of missing plug? Doesn't sound so major. If it is major, where's the proof?
dkrab:Good post. I do wonder myself especially when most of the cars should still be under warranty. But you have to give people the benefit of doubt.
I've become weary of jumping in these forums everytime someone says Hondas have bad transmissions.
They don't, pure and simple. They have excellent transmissions that rarely fail.
Of course, they are a complex, complicated piece of machinery like any transmission.
They can and will have an ocassional glitch like anything else.
The vast majority will never cause a problem.
As for your comment about what you were told at two different Honda dealerships...I simply don't believe your story, sorry.
Go to this website, click on "Auto Defects", then click on any particular make and model, then form an opinion about who makes better cars. Honda has had some problems, that are all listed. But Hondas are in a class way above "American" cards.
Honda does have excellent engines but their transmissions in the V-6's are troublesome. You pay good money for a car and you don't want trouble TWICE!
Just thought I would add to the conversation and hope you heed my personal warning!
Bwhaaaaa!
The reason being, most of the parts in a transmission aren't subject to wear. The parts that do wear are replaced and often updated with upgraded materials.
The local transmission shops do the same thing but often cut corners. The quality can vary by quite a bit.
To all those guys knocking honda's - keep it up any thing that will help me get better deals when I buy my next one is appreciated.
I drive lots of different rental cars when I travel-some of them nearly new-mostly domestic-they are better than they were 20 years ago but they are chasing a moving target.
I've had my EX V6 for almost a year now and have 16k miles on it. Though I haven't had any transmission problems as of yet, and it shifts smoothly most of the time under normal operation, I do find it at times a bit quirky.
My biggest beef is when I approach a stop or yield sign, If I do a "rolling" stop, instead of a complete stop, when I press the accelerator, the transmission seems to "studder", "skip" or shift hard.
Actually I'm not sure what it is doing. One theory I have is that maybe the grade-logic is holding second gear and then quickly slams to first when I start to accelerate? The only way I can avoid this is if I come to a complete stop, then accelerate; or initially gently accelerate after coming to a rolling stop.
This is very annoying and I find myself changing my driving habits to avoid it from happening. Is this normal? Does anyone else experiance this problem?
Thanks for the help
They call it "one time customer" free fix.
I know a guy that when he buys a car always opts for the best extended warranty available. He did this on his last 5 cars he purchased. The one thing he fails to realize is that he trades his car in every 3 years. I asked him why he does this and he replied, "I don't want any problems". The guy is 72 years old so you can't change him since he is from "the Old School". Ironically, he always buys some of the most dependable cars on the market in Honda, Toyota and Nissan.
thanks,
xingangz
I will try!
xingangz