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Removes road coating and the soap should remove rainX.Rub the rubber edge on the blade gently a few times with SOS pad. Rinse thoroughly. Water will sheet down the whole windshield.
I've used it for years.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Apparently, the some of the original hoses came from the supplier out of spec. and deteriorate, causing some of the rubber's compounds to enter the cleaning fluid and mar the windshield after use.
After driving the car for the past week, there are quite a few rattles in this car that I didn't notice on the test drive. I'm in Chicago and perhaps the cold weather we've had the past week hasn't helped (I have no garage), but I have rattles from what appear to be the rear package shelf and well as the front passenger seat &/or door pillar (this may be the seat belt hitting the seat/pillar when I'm driving - I don't have the rattle with a passenger).
I saw a TSB for 2003 Accords for the rear shelf, but noticed a stop in VIN numbers which would make me think the problem was corrected. Should I mention this TSB when I go back to the dealer on Saturday to have the cargo net installed?
I also have a question about the performance of the engine/transmission in stop and go city traffic. Am I pushing on the pedal incorrectly? If I'm in traffic at a light and we start to go and I push the pedal lightly (in the 20-25MPH) range, the car seems to 'lug' or hold back. Is this the transmission trying to shift into another gear. Should I drive in D3 instead of D?
If I have no one if front of me and can just go, the car accelerates very smoothly and quickly. I've never had a 5 speed automatic or a Honda. My previous cars (all Pontiacs) never did such a thing.
With the exception of the rattles and the lugging in city traffic, I like the car, especially all the features. But I must say if rattles are just a fact of life for any car, I should have kept my Grand Prix. Maybe I was expecting too much.
- The rear right door doesn't open from the inside. It only opens from the outside. Yeah you are probably saying "I know what that is" but you are wrong. I checked the child locks. Toggled it back and forth 4-5 times and tried in between - no luck.
- The seat drivers seat moves alittle during hard stops or turns.
- Long delays (1 sec) when stepping on the gas. I say long delay because I usually jump into traffic and try and accelarate fast to get with the flow of traffic. I now have to judge it very carfully because some of the traffic is moving at 100 Kmh so 1 sec can seem like eternity. Seems that if starting from 0 Kmh, it's best to put in D2. There seems almost no lag in pickup. And if moving already at 30-70Kmh then having it in D3 seems to give decent results. Still testing .....
Other then that this car is everything I had ever wanted in a car.
Gas mileage is at 29 city so far.
Cheers
Just ease off the gas pedal and accelerate, the V6 will hit 80 MPH at no time, even on the up hill.
I test drove my LX over very rough roads and there were no rattles or squeaks anywhere. When I was driving it home from the dealer down 90 I heard a 'squeak squeak...'. I was pissed. It sound like it was coming from the passenger side pillar.
When my wife was in the car the next day I asked her to listen for where the squeak was coming from. She said it was coming from the driver's side, not the passenger's side.
She pin-pointed it fairly quickly. It was my garage door opener. The visors are pretty fat and it's clip does not fit onto them well.
While you probably have a 'real' squeak/rattle, it might not be coming from where you think. The acoustics inside of the car can play tricks on you, as they did for me.
Side note: My neighbor traded in her 99 Grand Prix for a Passat. She said she still misses the GP. They are good cars that were pretty reliable. I considered an 04, but I needed a change.
I just need to have it kick-in when I floor it. I know it goes good when you ease into it. I'm just used to cars taking off when you floor it. I knew that this was a problem when I test drove it a year ago (8 test drives since then) and I still wanted the car. I knew worst came to worst I would learn how to "work" around it or find some other solution (changing gears) before I needed to floor it. Maybe I just have to wait 10-20K for proper break-in. Also found my coolant on the low level after one weeks worth of driving. Don't know if it was low when I picked it up. Tire presures were 3-5psi higher than norms. One month aniversary already and have 3k on it already, it was a slow month of driving to boot.
Thanks for all the comments. I now have 350 miles on my car in a week and I don't even drive to work. I take the 'el'.
kendrid - my '98 GP had 61,000 and I really liked it. Especially the styling. I got used to the squeaks after awhile. Just turned up the radio. However, 6 years was the longest I've ever kept a car and wanted a change (I usually only keep for 4 years). I tried the 04 GP, but didn't like it.
Thanks,
Al
anyways... now that I've gotten that out of my system... this is carburated, right? If it is, perhaps it may need a tune-up.
Had a friend with a 1994 Honda LX with 284K on the odometer and the car had normal wear and tear mechanically. The hood and front bumper although were covered with numerous stone chips from highway driving.
it has some paint scraped off the corners of the front bumpers, I'll touch it up later...
the left rear hubcap has some curbing damage...
the hood ornament is a little bit loose, and won't stay on straight...
the driver's door power window goes down 100% of the time and up 80% of the time...the times it doesn't go up, wait 30 seconds, and then try again, and it always finishes the long trek to being closed...I think it's getting hot and tripping a circuit breaker or something...
the driver's door itself clunks when closing, the lower hinge pin is loose, if I replace that, the door will close perfect, so consider that fixed as soon as I can drop by a Buick dealer or junkyard and pick up another hinge pin...
the transmission shifts perfectly BUT when the car is ice cold (and outside temp under 50 or so)I get a two second delayed engagement to drive...
engine has a light tick when very cold, it is the 2.2L 4-cylinder from the Cavalier...
anyway, you Honda people probably don't care to know all this, but 230K cars are a unique category and there are plenty of cars out there with 230K on them that look, feel, and drive like new...and amazingly my Buick which my Dad bought new in 1995 has made it that far and I fully expect to hit 300-350K before making any repairs outside of normal wear items...
I will concur with the other poster about checking the EGR system in that '87 Accord...
You never know...I've seen a lot of cars with known reliability problems last a long time.
On recent Hondas, it's reccommended that the timing belt be replaced at 105,000 miles.
Timing chains do not require replacement however, they can and do wear too given enough miles.
They also have tensioners that can wear out. I guess time will tell with Hondas since only the very recent four cylinders have chains.
Certainly, in my opinion, not a reason to pick one engine over the other.
Go to a tire expert that knows how to balance tires. You never mentioned the make of the tire?
I had a similar issue with my old '85 VW GTI that I had to live with for years. The steering vibrations were not because of out of balance wheels, or alignment, but due to bent rims from hitting a speed bump to fast/hard (I didn't even see this one till just before hitting it). The bent wheels caused vibrations in steering that grew with speed, so it meets your high-speed criteria.
So if service centers have already balanced and aligned, then have the wheels checked for ever-so-slight out of round conditions.
Also, a loose stabilizer bar or bad bushings holding the bar can cause low speed vibrations(old Mazda pickup had horrible vibrations when braking, and it wasn't the brakes or wheels, the rubber grommet/bushings were missing, so stabilizer bar shuddered bad when braking). It might also cause high-speed troubles, though I have not observed any personally...just items to have checked if u r getting nowhere quick.
If you are in Severe conditions area then the oil change intervals for your warranty to remain valid (on the engine anyway) are as follows:
3,750 miles
7,500 miles
11,250 miles
15,000 miles
...and every 3,750 miles (at least until your warranty expires I would follow this to the letter).
Just wanted to point this out. The 4-cyclinder actually has longe intervals which gets up to 10,000 miles under NORMAL (not SEVERE) conditions.
Here is Honda owners page (I registered my car) take:
Severe
Follow the "severe" schedule only if you drive in one or more of these conditions most of the time:
Trips of less than 5 miles (less than 10 in freezing weather)
Extremely hot weather (over 90 degrees F)
Extensive idling or stop-and-go driving
Trailer towing, car-top carrier, or mountain driving
Muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads
Normal
The "normal" schedule is fine for most drivers, even if they occasionally drive in severe conditions.
---> The "Extensive idling or stop-and-go driving" condition above applies to most of us urban and suburbanites...so be sure you are right if you wait 7,500 miles before each change.
Consequently, my oil looks pretty dark and I have only been about 3,200 miles since last change...so if I waited till 7,500, it would be dark black water basically and no longer lubricating or cooling properly (if the oil is dark and/or of watery consistency, and you don't change it, then you will be adding a quart of oil at every gas fill-up well before 100,000 miles, and emitting bluish-grey exhaust...;^)
who knows anymore. i figure, i never keep my cars long, so if it blows up, it blows up.
Do it their way first. It's been no problem with
my '98 4 cyl with 79K so far. The car burns 1/2 Qt over 3500 miles. It's hard to believe but that's what they told me in '98. I went back at 7000. It must work. They're saying the same thing in 2004.
Just wanted to get all elements out after a break-in period.
At 196K the car still hasn't burnt any oil yet.
I did use Slick 50 a couple times, at around 36K & 60K.
So if you are under "NORMAL" maintenance intervals for 03-04 V6's then that would be no earlier than 7,500 miles. Every change after should be at 7,500 intervals (unless you are rich and don't care about your warranty being valid).
However, MOST of us (almost all urban and suburban areas in the U.S.) are to adhere to the "SEVERE" maintenance intervals and should NOT have their first oil change until on or after 3,750 miles. Every change after should be at 3,750 intervals (unless you are rich and don't care about your warranty being valid).
Now, here comes the part which many do not grasp. Check your oil, visually inspecting not only the LEVEL of the oil, but the appearance of the oil. If the oil is VERY dark then have it changed sooner rather than later (even if it has only been 1,000 miles) because it no longer has the properties that enable it to lubricate and cool the engine (the oil plays a vital role in cooling the engine, just as important as the radiator and hose system with water and coolant/anti-freeze).
Use common sense. If oil looks like new (looks like clover honey) at 5,000 miles then you can go on with it for probably another 5k or so, but keep checking.
What's your point? You shouldn't be burning oil at all.
Like I've said in another thread, this is my third honda, and my oldest got up to 280K miles and burned not a DRIP of oil even at that age.
oil. Never a quart between changes and no blue smoke ever. My experience too, for any new Honda owners is that you never check the oil until the car has been sitting for hours on level ground. It seems that even a slight incline can throw the reading off and cause one to believe that they've used oil.
in the '03 V6. Is that not the lightest oil you've heard of being recommended for a vehicle?
Our 04 Accord just had it's first change at 9500 miles. No oil added or needed. Guess 2300rpm cruising makes a difference.
Those of you saying you change you oil every 3500 miles can't say that you burn any less oil than those that go to 10,000 miles because you have no experience.
This is even the case with my Civic that had 280K