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Comments
You'll only become aware of this issue after 50K or so. Off the lot, they would seem the same.
You did not mention how much oil had burned or how many miles it took for the oil to disappear, nor did you mention any symptoms (after not burning any oil ever, suddenly your car was blowing enough smoke to make entire homes disappear, etc.), so no one can say if your case is unusual or not. You do need to keep an eye on the oil level on a more frequent basis as your car ages since parts tolerances open up some. Every fuel fill up is a good interval. If my 9 year old car burned a quart of oil every 1,000 miles on a consistent basis, I would not worry if I were you, especially since you mention that you drive infrequently.
If your mechanic said to come back in a thousand miles, it would seem there is nothing catastrophic going on. My guess is that the suspicion is there is some sludge/gunk is in the system. Using an early oil change interval is a way to help clear stuff up, but be sure to ask the mechanic. Short drives on an infrequent basis are perfect conditions for gunk to build up in an engine. Occasional long drives will let the oil heat up and get some gunk loose enough to come out with the next oil change and perhaps help with oil burning.
Since it seems to have worked for you for more than 130,000 miles, stick with the recommended oil weight at least until your mechanic comes back with a diagnosis.
I have been using recommended 5W30 oil for my 89 Accord for every oil change for the last 15+ years. The engine still does not burn much oil.
Previously I thought my engine burnt oil about 3/4
QT every 3 months, but it turned out it was the drip at the oil plug. It leaked more than I think.
basically don't worry just check.
Even excessive oil burning doesn't hurt anything as long as you keep adding it. It may annoy other motorists but usually you can even pass smog tests no problem with an oil burner.
Don't "patch up" an old engine. Either rebuild it if you wish or just nurse it along.
http://snipurl.com/Honda_V6_Oil_Leaks
"A manufacturing defect on almost 2 million Honda and Acura V-6 engines - mostly made in Ohio - may allow oil leaks, but Honda is not extending the warranty on the engines.
Honda spokesman Chuck Schifsky said the problem affects a small number of vehicles despite the large number covered by the technical service bulletin recently sent to dealers informing them of the problem."
The article isn't very specific, but does say the leak can occur at the front, middle, or rear - where the heck else can there be a leak?
USA Today 3/9/04 quote
http://snipurl.com/Leak_under_warranty
"The problem typically happens in the first 4,000 miles, under warranty, Honda says. Dealers are authorized, but not required, to fix out-of-warranty porous engine blocks free. Casting procedures were changed for 2004 models to eliminate the leaks, Honda says."
Does anyone know where to look for these leaks or have any additional information? Thanks!
But now I found another defect, my trunk latch inside the car doesn't work. key lock mechanism seems to be stuck in the lock position even thought i put in the key and move it from lock to the unlock position.
I am getting this rattling noises when I push on the acceelarator on the freeway.
Lastly, when I reverse out of the driveway and then put it in drive and drive away. I get this grinding feel like the brake is rubbing against something or a mud guard. The only thing is that i don't have mud guards. Any takes???
I've experienced the same and I'm confident that it is the brake pads. Goes away after a couple stops. No negative affect at all.
The ABS self test occurs when you are NOT breaking. It occurs during initial movement when cold, when the wheels start moving enough for the sensors to do their self-test. You hear a buzz and feel vibration in the gas pedal.
Grinding will occur when coming to a stop. I occasionally find that the ABS will kick in if I am stopping abruptly or even moderately when on rough/uneven pavement. In that case, you're just feeling pedal vibration due to the ABS pump.
A sure fire way to tell the difference is to roll down your windows and listen for an actual grinding sound coming from the wheels.
I am amazed - the brand new accord is giving me 21 mpg on a local highway.....do I have anything to worrk about?
thank you guys in advance...
HOA has been contacted and has contacted the dealer performing the service. Will let you know how it turns out.
I am not going to "live with" this problem for the next 10 years.........
good luck with it...
I was under the impression that it just involved problems with features/parts of the car that didn't work.
Of course, with the right lawyer, you can argue that your headliner (a part of the car) isn't doing its job of reducing noise.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I do feel they involve the performance of advertised features too, though. To include air conditioning and such, which is not a safety feature.
http://www.800helpfla.com/~cs/lemonlaw.html
When driving home later in the day after work, the headliner noise reappeared. After reading the shop receipt, found that they had removed the headliner and placed "duck" tape in strategic places.
Called HOA and asked them about the durability of a "duck" tape repair. In the desert heat out here tape in the roof will not last long.
In my state the lemon law states that any defect "that affects the car's value" is admissible. If a potential buyer heard the noises coming from the windshield and headliner area, they wouldn't buy the car - it's value would be zero - it's just not natural.
My first visit they did the A-pillar stuff. The second visit they took 10 days to take apart and reassemble the dash - spraying Subaru dry lube everywhere (I know because they left the can in the car). The third visit they replaced the front windshield gasket - worked for a month. For legal purposes, I was fortunate enough that they described the "duck" tape repair on my fourth receipt!
The car's mechanicals' are wonderful. Interior integrity is not....
Please identify the specific article, name of author, date of publication, name of publication, etc where you read about V6 engine blocks. You've stated: "...poorly designed..." Was that the actual wording of the article? Or are those your own words?
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2004-03-09-toyota_x.htm
If it leaks oil, I'd would say it's poorly designed. Whether it's one person's words or not would be moot.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks for the link.
imidazol97:
It should now be interesting to see if, upon Honda's detailed analysis, it is determined that this porosity issue is a design concern or whether there were a limited number of blocks that were affected due to a raw material or production problem.
I believe that anyone using the term "poorly designed" regarding this issue, is shooting from the hip without sufficient data to back up such an assertion.
From what I've read, Honda usually has engineers who design the part also design the manufacturing process in an effort to keep cost in line. This sounds like a factory related or raw material issue.
and i don't buy for one second that whole sudden accelaration crap on the Camry's. at least once a decade a car gets in the crosshairs of some ultra conservative "consumer" group. in the 80's it was Audi (people not knowing difference between gas pedal and brake pedal) and in the 90's it was the Isuzu Trooper (people not quite understanding that you have to drive a top heavy truck a little bit different than a Corvette).
the Camrys are not my favorite cars by any stretch, but Toyota is a fairly respectable company. they would not make a car that kills people. can't afford the lawsuits. they aren't Ford after all
For example, why would only Audi drivers "not know the difference between gas pedal and brake pedal?" And why would only Isuzu Trooper drivers not understand "that you have to drive a top heavy truck a little bit different than a Corvette?"
So all of the other sedan and SUV drivers knew how to drive their particular models, but not Audi and Isuzu Trooper owners?
That would be a scientific marvel.
it really has everything to do with drivers/operators, rather than the vehicle. for every one person that complains that "my Camry just got away from me officer, that is why i rear ended that family in the minivan, i swear!", there are THOUSANDS of Camry drivers that "marvelously" don't have that problem
i remember one person stating that theirs does the same. anyone else? anyone had that looked at? or is it just "designed in" do ya think?
If your noise is what I think it is, you will hear the rattling when going over rough pavement. If you removed the A-pillar trim, the noise would disappear. You can remove it by pulling back the weatherstripping (open door, pull toward center of door opening) and then pulling the top of the A-pillar trim toward the center of the dashboard. Once you have the 2 clips disengaged, pull up and out to remove. There is a TSB out that addresses this problem (it basically involves adding some padding/felt tape).
The "IPN" also has a TSB out. This noise generally occurs at low speeds when accelerating from, or coming to, a stop. The solution is to add a couple welds to the frame to prevent some body panels from hitting each other. This really gives you confidence in the structure of the vehicle, doesn't it?
Maybe they will fly a welder into Santa Fe rather that have to try to sell my car again off the used lot.
The only A-pillar issues are those that may sound, intermittantly, like quietly crackling celophane. The sound may or may not be in the A-pillar. It could possibly be coming from the headliner near the A-pillar.
Anyone considering playing around with the A-pillar should be aware that it the home of some of the side-curtain airbags on vehicles that are so-equipped. You could be risking a dangerous bag deployment if you don't know what you are doing.
With my car the headliner sounds are just an annoyance, my main problem is different. I have digitally recorded a ".wav" file of the offending noise from the front A-pillar windshield glass area and have attempted to place it on my outdated but soon to be re-updated PWP:
http://home.att.net/~s.a.steelman/id24.htm
It is 911K in size (2 min 44 sec play) and only those with faster modem speeds are going to be able to put up with the download time. In any event if someone should listen and know the cure............please HELP. This was recorded for the first 1/2 mile out of my house!
They determined in my first service record that the "left front A-pillar weld was creaking". That doesn't sound too good to me (and I'm a mechanical engineer). Don't think that anyone believes that there is an epidemic of "bad welds" out there but all automated and manual processes have variances and tolerances.
My car is just "special" - I just have to convince Honda of that.