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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • jplymanjplyman Posts: 90
    I would talk with somebody high up at the dealership and see if they can help you with Audi and also I would use the "Lawyer" word with them - be very nice and let them an Audi know that you followed the OM etc.... and if they can not come up with a solution then you will be forced to follow up the courts even though this is not what you want but they leave you no choice. You may also want to look at some consumer groups for help. Kill them with kindness and apologize to the dealer if you need to pull him into a lawsuit and or negative publicity because they did not do there job in informing you about this problem.. I bet if you do that in a kind manner the dealer maybe able to get Audi to change their mind.


    Good Luck!
  • This happened to me as well, on a '96 A4.


  • i was wondering if anyone had any of the following problems with their audi - i have browsed through some of the previous problems and didn't see anything on them

    1st of all i had an oil leak, however there was never any oil light or indication of any problem except for the oil puddles everywhere i parked. i took in to the dealer where it took over a week for them to fix. they replaced some gaskets and other things they claimed were causing the problem. they also cleaned hoses and such. my car still had an oil leak when i picked up. i took it back and they finally fixed it. this time i was told it was the cooler filter seal?

    that was 2 weeks ago. this week (only 300 miles later), along with the constant smell of burning oil my car emits, my climate control is malfunctioning. my econ light will not turn off. the dealer says this isn't that big of a deal and they scheduled service. i was wondering if either of these things have happened to anyone else. also - has anyone else experienced an esp problem? the day after i bought my car-my esp light would not turn off- i had to service it immediately something do with my all wheel drive or abs or both?

    any help would be greatly appreciated - i only have 300 miles left on my warranty and im getting very scared by the way i have an a4 1.8t quattro
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Posts: 144
    I have the same problem with my new 2005 A4 1.8. Was the dealer able to fix the problem.

    This morning my ABS light will not turn off and the ESP light is still on. I turn off the car and the ABS light went away, but the ESP light is still on.


    Let me know, what the dealer told you.


  • My cigarette lighter hideaway in the center console is stuck in the hidden position. Seems that the lighter itself has popped out while down there. I have tried to slide tools down between the casing and the lighter to try and pop it back in but nothing is working...Any suggestions?? please!
  • My husband is currently shopping for new tires for his Audi A4 1.8T 2002. I've had to do this for my car and had so much help here on Edmunds. Anyone out there suggest an all wheel tire. We are in CT so we get all types of weather here in New England. Town Fair Tire was trying to sell him Toyo's...they try to sell everyone Toyo's. Any suggestions for good traction/price, etc... would be a great help. Thank you!
  • Hi. I do have quite a wonderful problem. It would seem if the alarm goes off the car randomly lowers one of the windows on the car. Flaw you might thinK!!!, perhaps even problem!


    No to the Audi Garage I brought the car off. It's a feature' it's what it's suppose to do (believe it or not thats a quote).


    When I point out whats the point of an Alarm if it's going to lower windows to the person trying to steal/get access to it, they start getting angry.


    Any Ideas?
  • I would recommend getting a second opinion from another Audi service center. I've never heard of the windows randomly rolling down when the alarm goes off.
  • I have experienced the exact same problem on my'00 A6 2.7T. The driver's door lock "fell apart", even though always use the remote to open the door. One or all of the windows would come down, the alarm would go off, even unlocking the doors!


    The dealer installed a new driver's door lock, unfortuneately with a new key. Consequently, the ignition key and the door lock are different, hasn't been a problem as long as the "remote" doesn't go dead!


    Repair was mostly covered under extended service plan, total repair cost about $700!
  • I'm talking to Audi UK (centre), the dealership are just useless.


    This is the truth the dealer I called said it was a feature' that the windows come down when the alarm goes off.


    I should be taking it into another dealership/grown up after Audi UK Centre gets back to me. I'll let you know how it goes.
  • suprasupra Posts: 3

    I have a 96 A4 Quattro as well... humming sound rear left started and before I could get it into the shop sounds coming from right rear, different noise alltogether. Both were bad wheel bearings. Spinning the wheel while on the lift doesn't duplicate the wheel speed while on the road.
  • suprasupra Posts: 3

    I have a 96 A4Q that I have had since about 36K miles. I have over 70K now. Have had to do wheel bearings on rear, lower control arms front, thermostat, one bad rear spring, brakes all the way around, power steering pump loosing fluid as we speak, one ABS sensor - all in the span of about 2 1/2 years. This particular car didn't get much use early on, sat around alot. Still what I would consider a considerable amount of maintenance. I love the car though.
  • suprasupra Posts: 3
    Read on - quite a few comments about faulty control arms - that likely is your creaking noise - especially at slow speeds while turning.
  • fcaofcao Posts: 31
    I'm considering to by a 2005 A4 1.8T


    But I found a series of discussion about how people should be prepared for a normal turbo engine to fail at high milage, say 80K. I found that discussion in Volvo's forum. But sounds like it a common concern for all turbo engines. Can any give any insight about:

    whether it's true that is a common concern for turbo engines? and Why?
  • The only concern with the 1.8T engine is that it's highly recommended to have the timing belt and water pump replaced every 60K miles instead of what's listed in the owner's manual (much higher mileage). There are many happy Audi owners with the 1.8T engine who have well over 100K miles on them.


    Stay on top of the routine maintenance (and use synthetic oil to avoid oil sludge problems - that can kill the engine), and it should perform well for you for many miles. =)
  • nyaudinyaudi Posts: 25
    On 2005 3.0 model, my rear-view dimming seems to not be doing much after 3300 miles. But when new, it seemed to be fantastic - was so easy on my eyes and really worked well. I have power at the mirror, and I assume the light sensor is just to the right of the mirror power switch? Back shelf is clear - wondering if anyone else has noticed problems over time with these? Any way to test conclusively if it's working or not?
  • I'm having issues with getting the Homelink to recognize my Genie garage door opener. I've followed the directions and get the confirmation of the parking lights flashing so I know the system has gotten a signal, but it still won't open my door. Any ideas?
  • I have the same problem on my A4 99. Yesterday I finally took it to the dealer who said they would try to pry it but it would probably break. THey estimated a cost of $113 to replace it.

    I've had the same problem with my trunk -- which got stuck shut last week. Ugh.
  • rcmrcm Posts: 5
    The AM reception is horrible in my '02 A4 1.8T Avant -- any station beyond about a 10-mile radius is drowned out with noise and static. The car has the standard head unit. I believe this is a common Audi complaint, but the dealer said it's just the way it is. Anyone have any experience troubleshooting/improving their reception?

  • rcmrcm Posts: 5
    I was unable to get Homelink to work after I recently replaced my 10-year old garage door opener. I believe the way some newer door openers handle signal frequency is incompatible with Homelink. Sorry I don't have more details, but I know in my case there wasn't a work-around.
  • mvs1mvs1 Posts: 462
    The AM signal travels on or very low to the ground. FM actually travels at a higher altitude. From my experiences in the past being a mobile electronics installer. When you have bad AM there isn't really alot you can do to boost reception. If you google a search for AM boosters you'll find a range of aftermarket products. I've used a few in various cars and IMHO none have made a significant gain or any for that matter.
  • p05p05 Posts: 5
    My Car does not respond to the gas pedal on occasion, then the Car lurches forward. Sometimes it seems to be bogging down. The Dealer keeps cleaning cleaning throtle body. But this is not fixing the problem. It Feels like transmission problem. Any ideas? solutions
  • I had the same problem on my 2001 A4 1.8T. The first 0.5 seconds it seems that the engine "hesitates" before acquiring the applied gas with the pedal. It might be either transmission (complex, expensive to fix, might need tuning). In my case it was the injector cleanup needed. Try the STP fuel injector cleaner at local Walmart and add to the fuel tank on every oil change.

    Anyone has additional info on this problem?
  • vdnvdn Posts: 1
    Does your garage door opener (the actual unit, not the remote) have a learn button on it? For my car, (2005 A4 w/homelink) you program the same way that you had described, in doing that, it teaches homelink to send out the correct signal. However, you still need to have the garage door opener unit to learn this new signal.

    So I would check the garage door opener unit, usually there is a button on there, you press it, then go press the homelink button in your car (after it has learned the remote signal)

    Hope that helps
  • lappy63lappy63 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Audi A4 Turbo 1.8L, and I have started to feel some vibration in the steering wheel and it tugs a bit (slightly) on the wheel at times. If I am driving at a slower speed (20-30 mph) and I let go of the wheel it vibrates and tugs back and forth about 1/4" or so. I can feel the vibrations in the steering wheel and in the front/wheels as well. At faster speeds I don't feel the vibrations as much. Any suggestions or ideas as to whats behind this before I bring it in?
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Posts: 144
    I have a 2005 (B6), A4, 1.8 6M. I took delivery on Jan 11, 2005, it is now March 10 (only three months) and 3,450 miles and the brakes are starting to squeak like crazy. Even crazier is the fact that I took it to the dealer today for some other reason (ABS and ESP light came on and stayed on), and the service manager told me that this noise is "normal" and that it happens in all the cars.

    I own a 1994 Toyota celica which I bought brand new in 1994, and a 1999 Jimmy, which I both two years ago and none of those cars ever emit those squeaking noises.

    My question to the group is, did any of you guys experience the same problem with your Audis? and do your other cars (if applicable) emit the brake noise that the Audi service manager says is "normal" on every car?

    Thanks for the feedback.

  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Is the noise only at startup? Could you describe it better?

    The A4 does have a noise at startup that sounds like you ran over a soda can. It is normal and it's related to the ABS system pressurizing.

    Any other noise such as a squeal when stopping or gently braking is not normal and should be fixed. There is no excuse for noisy brakes.

  • taxman10taxman10 Posts: 59
    Not a big deal but has anyone noted the dealer's failing to prep the stupid tires?
    I got two new cars a couple weeks ago from my local dealer.
    The Allroad had 39 lbs F and 41R.
    The B7 A4 had 37F/R
    I had noted a real floaty, almost disconnected, road feel and got curious.
    Both of these were measured on a digital guage and when tires were stone cold - sitting overnight garaged at approx. 40 degrees.
    I assume the factory loads them up expecting an average lag time until delivery and some leakage. But this is not something that should go unchecked.
    Other than that, all was in order.
    Just sounmding off.
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Posts: 144
    rowlandj.....the brake noise comes at start, but oddly enough it also happens after I drive the car for a while (even after a 25 miles commute).

    The sound is like the pads are worn, but I know that could not be the case as it is a new car. Like you describe it, it is a squeal when I apply the brakes.
    The service manager told me that it has to do with the weather conditions (cold). I will wait until spring and if it does not go away, then i will give them a piece of my mind.

  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    The weather should not matter. The brakes heat up rather quickly regardless of the outside temperature. They need to clean the brakes and apply anti-squeal compound and they should do it now. No OEM brakes should squeal at any time.

    I would not wait and tell them in a nice way that you don't buy this line of BS.

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