Honda Accord Accessories

srobak

What a ripoff. I didn't know factory stereos *weren't* offered with mp3 anymore. Better to spend half as much and get a portable mp3 player with higher capacity. Not the smartest thing Honda has done this year.

dwynne

You then have to feed it into the system, so you could get the tape deck and a "fake tape" - about 1/2 the price of the MP3. A couple of companies make aux in adapters as well - they are $75-100 if I remember correctly.

Dennis

fractalpanther

Why do you have to get from honda? Any local wal-mart has mp3 stereo's from $100 up. I got my cheep KOSS last year for $200 and the newer ones have a lot more options. Of course if you want an mp3 cd-changer in the trunk then you are looking at quite a bit more. But in my oppinion, a single mp3 cd will hold more then enough music for most commutes and some of the newer decks read playlists so you could have 5 playlists and 80 songs on a cd. For the average 5min song at high quality you can get about 6 hours of play time and by the time you finish listening to the whole cd the first sgons are new again.

I would put up the extra money for a good fast burner for your computer then getting an over priced mp3 cd changer.

The hand held mp3 player like an ipod works well too. But who the hell wants a tape deck or even cords dangling down?

dwynne

The new Accord does not have a standard DIN stereo opening. You can install a standard DIN radio, but you have to get a kit to install it. The "looks just OK" kit is $20-30 (or free from Crutchfield with a head unit purchase) the "looks factory" kit is $150 . So putting in an aftermarket stereo is not that simple in this car.

Also on the V-6 Accord and EX I4 cars you get steering wheel controls - and a lot of folks don't want to lose those by swapping to an non-OEM stereo.

Dennis

fractalpanther

I didn't realise there were wheel controls. Although these could probably be hooked up pretty easy depending on your level of skill but good point.

I don't think I'm going to get the 1992 honda accord. Do ahh honda's try to give you whiplash just by changing gears?

lastwraith

The 90-93 Accords have automatic transmissions in them capable of easily going 200K+ miles, but they do change gears with more "gusto" as compared with most other transmissions. You might not like it now, but it's very nice when you are trying to move fast and I've come to like it. Also, if you are looking at cars that old, they probably have motor mounts that are broken and a broken rear motor mount will make the shifts much harsher. Besides this, most do not run Honda tranny fluid in their cars. This could also (arguably, depending on what IS actually in there) cause a harsher shifting vehicle.

Personally, I think there are plenty of cars out there that you should be able to find one with auto windows. This would be easier (and likely cheaper) than converting the manual ones. Checking edmunds and pumping in all the details about the car will give you a price that is on the mark, asking us will only give you a very general idea.

As for mp3s on cd, let's get something straight for everyone's benefit. You can either burn mp3s onto a cd to make an mp3 cd or you can burn a conventional audio cd and then they are being converted by the burning program. I dare say that almost no car will play the mp3s burned onto the cd directly, otherwise they would advertise that they have a radio capable of playing mp3 cds. Most newer vehicles SHOULD play cds that are burned as "audio" cds because then the only dependent factor is if the receiver can read the CDR or CDRW that you burned it on. Some receivers cannot read either CDRs or CDRWs, but these are generally found on older cars. I think at this point just about every stock cd player can at least read CDRs. Also, if you find yours cant read burned CDs, try changing brands. Very often, a player will read one brand and not another.

Another thing, most stock stereos are adequate for low volume listening. But if you want to turn up your music to a louder volume with clarity, have more freeedom to adjust your audio, or simply want a more powerful system to attain greater precision or increased dynamic overhead then an aftermarket system is always the way to go. Stock stereo systems don't usually try for great musical reproduction and even when they do it is compromised by the fact that money is always a major issue.

And no, it is not easy at all to hook up wheel controls. In fact, I can count on my hands the number of times I've seen it done....and only then because the aftermarket receiver was chosen to operate with those wheel controls. Most aftermarket solutions involve a clip-on wheel control.

srobak

lastwraith wrote: I dare say that almost no car will play the mp3s burned onto the cd directly, otherwise they would advertise that they have a radio capable of playing mp3 cds.
---

I was car shopping for 4 months prior to getting my accord about a month ago. 90% of the new vehicles I was looking at *did* in fact advertise as am/fm/cd/mp3 players. Like I mentioned before, I was rather surprised that the Accord didn't. Those cars included: Pacifica, Crossfire, 300, 300 AWD, Passat TDi, Passat 1.8t, A4, WRX, Impala, Malibu.

You also wrote: most stock stereos are adequate for low volume listening. But if you want to turn up your music to a louder volume with clarity, have more freeedom to adjust your audio, or simply want a more powerful system to attain greater precision or increased dynamic overhead then an aftermarket system is always the way to go.
---

This was true in the early to mid 90s, but things have changed a lot since then. Stock systems - if optioned out for the higher end systems - actually sound remarkably good and can go quite loud. I think BMW offers a Mark Levinson system in their 7 series, and I'll be damned if I would ever replace that with an aftermarket system. The Monsoon systems found in many of todays imports geared for today's youth are not going to blow out any windows, but they will keep a carload of teens to college aged kids bumping happily down the road. I had a 92 Lincoln with a 10 JBL speaker and 180w JBL amp from the factory in it... sounded almost as good as my studio monitors at home. The system in my EX-L Accord is impressive, especially once you realize that what is producing all the bass in the car while listening to the BPM channel on XM is a couple of 6x9's with magnet assemblies the size of silver dollars.

lastwraith

Well, if they are advertised as being able to play MP3 cds then we are simply in agreement. I just meant that in any old or new car, you are almost assured of NOT being able to play an mp3 cd unless it specifically advertises that as a feature.

As for stock systems being good, some of them are. But you can still get a better system aftermarket at an equal or (as is almost always the case) lesser price than what you pay to option up to the good stereo in a new car. Things may have changed since the 80s, but they haven't changed enough because there is no reason to. Most people are fine with a radio that plays clearly enough at normal volume. If you want more though, aftermarket is the way to go. Bose offers numerous systems in cars where the best thing about them is mainly the name. Even if the sound is good, then sometimes the longevity of the components is not. Ask a Maxima owner about their Bose system sometime and then run away before the owner throws a broken Bose amp at you. I'm sure the Mark Levinson system is nice, but I'm also sure it is equally expensive. Besides this, part of the reason it sounds so good is the car that it is in. Mark Levinson is offered in high-luxury sedans (BMW 7series and Lexus offerings) in which there is almost no cabin noise because of the acoustical dampening. If you are going to spend the money by optioning up and going with the stock system you will pay above and beyond what you gain.

A lot can be done even by keeping most of the stock system in tact, but you can get a lot more for the money by going aftermarket. Not to mention the fact that you can specify exactly what you want.

As for the Monsoon systems, they are actually manufactured by an arm of Delco and are only now being offered in imports, but they were originally offered in GM variants. Weird to have a blazing import audio system be manufactured by the same guys who shove their radios into millions of taxicabs.

hwood1

Hi guys.

Does anyone knows where I can get the stereo wireing color code diagram for my '03 Accord. I want install an adapter to the head unit.

lastwraith

If they haven't changed the colors since '98, then this is it. Don't really see why they would but I'm not certain.....

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/HA-Wiring.pdf

damjrh

I just purchased the Accord V6 EX coupe and I was wondering if there is someplace I can find hands free telephone hookup or performance enhancements?

bauerbach

I'm about to order the same item. The dealer couldn't install it on delivery - they say a part needed to install it is on "national backorder". Looks like I can spend way less and do it myself, but don't want to regret it.

Why do they say you have to remove the battery negative? The mirror isn't powered if the ignition is off, so I don't see the need. If the wires were live, ok, I can see it, but not if the wires are not live.

Thanks,
Bill

desseekingcar

Hey everyone.

Just picked up my 2005 Accord LX/auto two days ago...looking to put some aftermarkets on myself.

I know that the mud guards are simple, but am wondering if fenderwell trim, door guards and the additional lx security system are worth it and/or not a real impossibility to install.

The door guards make me nervous because of the possibility of scratching the metal with the seal cutter, other then that what do you all think is worth it/or not?

snakehair

I installed the door guards on my '03 and there was no problem. The tool included makes the job pretty idiot proof (I am not very handy). Touch up paint is needed in any case to cover the exposed metal under the seal. The guars are welll shaped and fit snug first go round. I found them easier than the mud flaps due to several stripped screws in the fender wells.

dallasite

I'm interested in getting some chrome rims for my black '05 V6 coupe w/nav. :shades:

The Honda dealerships here in Dallas said that they would send the factory rims off to be chromed, but that would take 2 weeks (I'd be without my car for that long) and it would cost $1200 plus tax (ouch!) :surprise:

That seems a bit pricey considering I can get aftermarket tires AND rims for that price.

Any suggestions? :confuse:

robr2

Try wheelcollision.com. They may have some in stock they can chrome and send to you with a core charge. They do say they'll then buy back your rims.

Give them a try.

mori1

I just purchased a 2002 Accord SE , however I did not recieve the Valet key or the Radio Code . I read about these in the owners manual after my purchase, so I didn't ask my salesman about them. How do I get them? Do I need to call Honda directly?

Thanks for any info, Maria

dwynne

The parts department should be able to help you with both. I think with proof of ownership (take them your registration and a photo ID) they can get the radio code from your VIN. The keys on a 2002 probably have the "immobilizer" chip in them like the current models do. Again the parts department should be able to order and cut you a new key.

If you can get the car salesman to pay for this, go for it :-)

Dennis

whitecloud1

Unless it's the "mall lot sales team type" of sale, your salesman SHOULD pay for your key and radio code. If you need it later, then what?

srobak

The Michelins that come on the ex-l suck. I have already had to replace one due to what I consider a defect but the dealer didn't agree on. They are also horribly noisy and I can't say much for them in the rain. I need to get rid of them prior to winter.

I have had great luck in the past with Goodyear Regatta 2's, and would like to put them on the Honda, however - their narrowest 16 inch 60 series is a 215, and the OEM tires are 205. Can I go to a 215 without anything rubbing when turned lock to lock? I was able to do this on my Lincoln in going from a 215 to a 225...

The regattas are also a T rated tire vs. a V rated, but I am not planning on driving it 120+ mph anyhow, and as far as I am concerned, the ride is a little too stiff anyway.

Anyone done any tire mods on 2003 or newer? Thanks.

dwynne

I agree about the key, but getting the radio code should always be free. I re-read what I typed and realized that someone could infer that I was saying the dealer would charge them to look up the code. They should not.

Dennis

whitecloud1

No offense meant or taken. My message could have been better. My real point was
that the car should have those things and unless mori1 moved to slowly, he would get both without problems, rather than waiting and losing out.

blane

whitecloud1,

According to post #1618, mori1's name is Maria. She's a she, not a he.

lx_steal

The Honda alarm cost me $154 and took 45 minutes to install. The car is already wired for it and installing is simply plugging in 2 plugs, and securing thr unit. You need to drill one hole for the glass breakage microphone. The biggest hassle is removing the underdash, and that is easy. The dealer wanted $200 labor. Alarm works great!

mrbill1957

I'm assuming the alarm detects more then glass breakage since you know it works? That would be an $$$ test.

Mrbill

anonymousposts

I wouldn't go with 215/60/16's. You would probably need to go to a 215/55/16. Try www.tires.com. According to the tire calculator on their website using the 215/60 would cause your speedometer reading to be off.

walter98

Does anyone know how to replace my power antenna on my 1993 Accord? The replacement came with instructions but in my recent move, I seem to have lost them. Even a link to a website would be helpful..Thanks

lastwraith

This perhaps?

http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Antenna_Mast.htm

misterpinkey

Not sure of your area, but I live in WA state, Progressive only checks the past 35 months instead of 36. I had the same situation as you & the item on my record didn't show up with them, but it did with Geico & Hartford.

~tdub

walter98

that is perfect. thanks so much

docdavis

I recently purchased a 2005 Accord EX-L with XM, but without NAV. I like the functionality of the stock stereo, but feel the speakers could use a little more oomph. I plan to purchase a pair of Infinity Kappa 693.7i and 652.7i but am unsure if they’ll fit in the factory enclosures under the factory molding.

Can anyone please help me out?

Also, does anyone know the specs for the factory speakers, e.g. RMS, Sensitivity, etc? The Infinity’s are both rated at 95db for sensitivity so I imagine they should work very well with the factory deck.

thx, docdavis

srobak

Actually, going with 215/60's would give me an overall height increase of 12mm, while using 215/55's would give me an overall decrease of 9.5mm - both directions would make my speedo off slightly... larger would be slower, smaller would be faster.

According to both that website and others, I could +0 with factory wheels to 225/55's with an overall increase of 1.5mm which should make a very marginal difference on the speedo... however I *really* have my doubts if a 225 will fit under there without changing offsets. That is 20 over OEM and 10 over what I was wanting to do originally, which I only did because the Regatta 2's aren't available in 205/60's. Anyone anyone? Bueller?

mrbill1957

I have a 04 EX-L with XM and NAV, and I tried upgrading the rear only speakers. I tried Alpine SPS-690A speakers. Although they are a drop-in fit, they sounded terrable. No bass, very tinny sounding, they were in for 20 min, and back to the store they went. No radio adjustments seemed to solve that changeout.

I haven't had the ambition to try others, or do a front AND rear changeout. I have read that the front speakers do not use standard mounts. There may be a little modifications that could be required, or possibly an adapter needed for those.

Previous postings here vary from just swapping out front and rear will work, to you have to replace everything!!!

Keep us posted if you do make a swap, I would be interested in your results.

Good luck

Mrbill

srobak

Instead of replacing everything, just get a small amp which has speaker-level inputs and hook it up to new speakers. I have actually been surprised by the amount of bass the stock rears put out, especially considering the size of their magnet assemblies. I am thinking about leaving the stock speakers and deck in and just adding a single or dual 10in sub to mine.

If you opt for aftermarket speakers, just get an amp for them... this way you can leave your head unit alone.

mrbill1957

In my case, I have let things as they are, and I feel that the sound has improved with use. OK I know that sounds strange, but I remember reading that speakers have their own break-in period. I guess they need to do some flexing before working at their best.

Anyways, if your in no hurry, give the factory setup some time, and if after then you still don't like the sound, then try upgrading.

Mrbill

lastwraith

I agree with srobak. Get a small amp first (even a 4 channel @35WPC @4ohms would be fine) with speaker level inputs. Setup the amp somewhere near the deck (under the pass seat?) to minimize the wiring work you have to do, and see what things sound like. You'd be surprised what an amp can do with even a stock setup to wake things up in the cabin. And then even if you decide to do the speaker upgrade you still have a better feed for them already in place. If you are willing to spring for the Infinitys then I think you are headed for an amp anyway. There is a night and day difference between aftermarket speakers on deck power vs even a low power amp.

Regarding the Alpines, you can't really expect them to sound good without some more power. They may be rated 2-50W RMS but you can bet the better sound leans towards the 50 end range. They are not super sensitive and have to push around a large woofer on rubber surrounds. As for the tinny sound, some people don't like titanium coated tweeters. Try something with a silk dome tweeter and see if that is more to your liking. Though it may just be the fact that they need more power to deliver the lower end of the spectrum. I haven't had any dealings with that particular model but the reviews online seemed to suggest they sounded good when powered by a 50WPC amp.

An amp isn't always the answer, but it rarely hurts. Otherwise you are limiting yourself to only the most sensitive of aftermarket speakers.

You're welcome on the antenna thing.

srobak

Actually, I would say put the amp in the rear. Then you can run short cables from the existing rear speaker plugs without any splicing into the amp. Now - if you opt to replace the fronts, then you are looking at a project to conceal the amp and wire that one up

lastwraith

I politely disagree for two reasons. 1) If you are using speaker level input then you would want to minimize the distance between the amp and the deck. Some RCA cables even pick up noise going to the back of a vehicle, can you imagine the noise those crappy little speaker cables might be picking up? And while you can argue that the cables running from the amp to the back speakers might pick up noise I would rather have that small amount of noise than have the input cables to the amp pick it up and then have it multiplied by the amp!

2) Putting the amp in the rear is better possibly because there is more room and airflow, but even with the amp back there you still have to run the input cables to it. Either way you are running cables to something all the way down the length of the interior so it's not like you are saving any effort there by having a short path to the rear speaks.

Get a 4 channel and be done with it I would say.

docdavis

Thanks for the feedback Mrbill. On to Plan B. I'll keep you posted.

docdavis

docdavis

Thanks for the feedback srobak! I'm not sure I'm ready to take the plunge into aftermarket components past speakers, but you have given me something to ponder.

I think my next project might take precedence for now while I work on setting up an interface to my iPod. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thx
docdavis

docdavis

I meant lastwraith. My apologies!

docdavis

tdz

I have accord 2004 coupe, does any one have any suggestions or recommendations where I can purchase Door Sills ( preferably aluminum) and gas, brake pedal and foot rest?
I was able to find some after market door sills but only for accord sedan, door sill is longer at the frond in coupe then in sedan.
I was not able to find any pedal for accord
thanks a lot
td

anonymousposts

Give www.handa-accessories.com a shot.

tdz

I did, don't have it. Ebay has a lot of sedan sills, but not coupe. Factory sill is about 33 1/2 inches long and 2 2/8 wide (most of aftermarket are about 24 -28inches MONO for example). Sedan much shorter. Mazda has factory replacement foot pedals, honda not
anyway thanks anonymousposts
anybody else?

kent127

Does anyone know if the Accord VP comes with the air conditioner already installed at the factory or is it done by the dealer at the time of purchase. I hate to get screwed by a dishonest dealer who might try to install a refurbished A/C and than try to pass it off as new. Or worst, they might installed a third-party imitation unit and claim is a genuine Honda accessory. Thanks.

seyi

Hello all,

i just bought a fairly used honda accord 1999 and it did not come with an owners manual.

Does anyone know where i can get the owners manual online

cheers

anonymousposts

According to Honda's website the 05 Accord VP comes with factory air conditioning. Are you looking at new or used?

For an owner's manual try helm's publications. They have them in stock and charge $32.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=&Mfg=AHM&Make=AHM&Model=ACRD&Year=1999&Catego- ry=2&Keyword=&Module=&mscsid=5DBSW7X3D0QR9H6BT7PJ1PK6N7QU70CC

You could also try ebay if you want to save some money.

blane

seyi:

Try here for a 1999 Accord Owners Manual

http://search.ebay.com/accord-owners-manual-1999_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8

docdavis

Has anyone determined if using an inline splitter to connect to the AUX port in the back of the factory radio will allow both the XM cable and iPod interface cable to plug into it ergo allowing one to operate while the other is off?

I don't want to lose the functionality of the XM radio and in-dash 6 disc changer, but also want to hard-wire my iPod to work through the factory radio utilizing the steering wheel controls and displaying text information.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thx,
docdavis

lx_steal

With soundgate or blitzsafe aux adapter, you will lose xm if you use aux. Why not look at replacing radio? Crutchfields has faceplate afapter.