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Comments
I appreciate your thoughts, but I really would like to stick with the factory stereo. I'm a firm believer in "where there's the will, there's a way" mentality so I'm sure someone will stumble upon a solution eventually.
Thanks again,
docdavis
Were you ever able to fabricate an A/B switch for the XM and iPod configuration? If so, can you please let me know how you did it?
Thanks, docdavis
Maybe an option-- If your willing to dig into the wiring, you could install a phone jack with the built in switch, similar to the kind you find on radios, the ones you plug in your headphones, and the speakers cut out. I would think that would work here, you would have to cut into the XM output to the radio input, and patch the jack in there. Then when you want to use your iPod, you would just plug it in, and select XM on the radio.
Sound feasible?
Mrbill
Well you can pound that round peg in the square hole until you are blue in the face, but no one (currently) makes what you are looking for. I think the thought process is if you have XM you don't need the ipod interface and vice-versa. Tie that into your desire keep the OEM stereo (which is pretty poor compared to an aftermarket system) and you are asking someone to make an ipod controller that works with your OEM stereo and XM - that would be a small market. Not saying someone would not make it some day, but that would be at the bottom of the request list.
What I would look into is an XM tuner like the SkyFi2 or one of the XM2Go models. Much nicer than the OEM tuner and can do lots of neat tricks - 30 minute pause/rewind buffer, song alerts, etc. You can also take the tuner out of the car and use it in other cars, around the house, or about anywhere (XM2Go models) - all with just a single subscription. I put a SkyFi2 car kit in my wife's new Accord and she still one in her other car, so she takes he tuner no matter which car she is in.
I do the same thing in two cars and on two motorcycles and around the house or outside.
So I would look into the Dension IceLink and see if it can use an aux in source (like the XM), or check the PIE and BlitzSafe ipod controls and see if they can take an extra external input.
And was suggested, an aftermarket radio can be fitted and probably still use the wheel controls and be able to do XM and ipod.
Dennis
Since there is only one aux input on the factory stereo, and it would be electrically dangerous to do a full-time split between the ipod and the XM, the only real answer is an A/B switch on the split. It means an extra button push when selecting your source, but if it enables the wheel controls and doesn't cause 2 sources receiving commands at the same time - then it solves the problem.
diode |
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XM B--->|---------------+
diode
I agree with your reasoning and appreciate your thoughts. Specifically, how would you go about configuring an A/B switch to work for both the iPod and XM? I haven't seen a switch box that accepts the AUX port connector/cable. My assumptions are you would have to procure a switch that allowed an iPod interface cable to connect to Slot A and the XM cable to connect to Slot B as inpuits on one side of the box and then have an output cable (male to male ends) coming from the other side of the box connecting to the AUX port in the back of the factory radio. Is this correct? If so, where do I procure the switch box and necessary male to male cable?
Thx, docdavis
Since I have several cars and a couple of motorcycles and listen to XM all day at work and at home paying for subscription that I could only use in a single car does not make any sense.
Dennis
$12.50 per hour for labor? Wow! What a deal.
Good Luck.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/
This may help in understanding what is going on.
Mrbill
Thanks for the info I printed the installation instructions. I don't believe that the tape is all the way across the top on my spoiler I now think they goofed up the tape and then pieced it hence one side has a gap. It is both taped and has 4 screws in it. I am half afraid to have them try and fix it. do intend to talk to them about it.I am worried they will mess it up worse then it is. From the rear it looks fine. i have been told the tape is hard to get off. I"ll let you know the outcome. It does add a lot to the appearance of the car.
Thinking about getting the red to replace the white LX I have now.
(Even though I don't like the shade in the EX as well as the shade of red the DX has.)
I've heard that red paint does not hold up well, especially not garaged in the Florida sun.
Truth or fiction?
Thanks,
S
I have worked with double sided foam tape and yes it is hard to remove once it's been on a while. If you are considering removing, re-taping and re-installing the spoiler, the sooner the better.
If it was me, I would remove the 4 screws and then give the spoiler a pull with hands only. If the tape starts release from the deck lid, then it probably won't be hard to do. If it doesn't budge, then you need to decide how far you want to get into this project. Removing the tape can be time consuming but not impossible to do. Things like WD-40 will soften up the adhesive, and make it easier to rub off with your fingers.
New tape may be available at auto part stores, if not, an auto paint supply store should have it. It's commonly used for door mouldings.
I know how you feel when you see something that wasn't installed well. I know it would drive me crazy every time I would look at it.
Mrbill
IIRC, you have 195-65R15. You'd jump up to a 205-60R16 as the closet matching diameter. That'll bring your sidewall from 5" to 4.4".
For a 17" you'd jump to 225-45R17. Your sidewall drops to 4".
IMHO unless you want the better handling and rougher ride, leave well enough alone.
How old is your son?
I have used Yokohama's on my Accord with good results, but I have an older car. At least the site will give you some comparison ideas.
As long as you get a tire that meets the speed rating (H or V in this case IIRC) and the weight rating (89??), you should be fine.
I agree - check out the tirerack.com.
I removed all the old tape on the spoiler and trunk lid, and then used Scotch #4011 "exterior mounting tape" to re-tape it. It looks identical to the original tape that came with the spoiler. The spoiler itself has lines on it that show exactly where the tape should go, which is helpful. You have to be very careful that when you replace the spoiler, you have it positioned exactly right, because once the tape makes contact with the trunk lid, it's stuck.
I just washed the car for the first time today (Saturday) since redoing the spoiler on Monday. (I was hoping the tape would set up better if it went several days without getting wet). After washing the car, I could tell that the foam tape is still holding, but it did absorb water, and it made a "squish" sound when I pressed down on the spoiler. The original tape did the same thing and it eventually failed. So, I guess all I can do is wait and see if this tape holds any better. If not, I'll try and find some type of tape that isn't foam.
One thing about the aftermarket (non-Honda) version of this spoiler. It does not use tape. It uses 2 additional bolts toward the outer edges of the spoiler, for a total of 6 bolts, where the Honda spoiler only has 4. However, there is no way to gain access to the inside of the trunk lid where those two extra bolts are -- you have to drill access holes on the inside of the trunk lid!
Was the car waxed at any time before you installed the spoiler? Anything the dealer apply to the paint?
Did you try fitting the spoiler before adding the tape? I wonder if the spoiler isn't following the curve of the deck lid in the areas it's lifting up.
Mrbill
Any help is appreciated.
Thinking about getting an Accord but really dislike the stereo.
Anyway, Looking at throwing in some 6.5 components in the front and 6x9s in the back with a 4channel amp to replace the stocks. With the funky head unit set up, I want to keep the stock in there for cosmetic reasons.
My questions:
Has anyone replaced all 6 speakers before? How difficult was it to get to the tweeters?
Has anyone hooked up an amp to the stock head unit? How does it sound?
Lastly, a general stereo question, is it silly to spring for a 75rms x 4 @ 4ohm amp when using the stock head unit? I doubt the stock has RCAs, so is it pointless or will there still be great sound? I've never hooked up an amp and speakers keeping the stock head unit!
Thanks!
Get an amp that accepts speaker-level inputs, and unless your door speakers are going to have crossovers in them to run to external tweets in the dash, you will need a 6 channel amp with a high pass crossover on one pair of channels to route to the tweets.
The bad guy can still start the car, but it runs out of gas halfway down the block. He has no other choice than to get out and abandon the car.
Also, how much do you really think just replacing an air filter is going to do? Even replacing the filter and the airflow path (with a cold air intake) does not give you much in the way of performance gains, but it does make a cool sound when you push the engine. The only way you are going to get more performance out of an air filter replacement is if it flows much more air, which means it isn't filtering as well. If you don't mind trading good filtering for a negligible increase in performance (and yes, it's at the expense of gas mileage) then by all means, go for it.
Personally, I think you are better off just making sure everything that came with the car is in tip-top consition. That's the best way to get good performance and great MPG. If you need much more performance, you WILL be dropping serious dollars on some real engine modifications. Anything else is likely hype.
I dont much care for the solid red tail lights in my 05. Car has about 10k on it, lenses are in perfect condition. Anyone interested in a straight-up swap? I am looking for the split color lenses from the 03 or 04. They bolt right in. We can agree on a day to overnight the lenses to each other so we are not left without lights for very long. Whatever works for you. I can provide pix, expect the same in return. Thanks
-scr
Low profiles look cool, but usually are have higher tire ratings (for higher speed) thus are more expensive. This also means they wear out faster. They grip great, but are a harsher and bumpier ride. In racing that is the deal. Stiffer means faster.
So, I think your son is looking for cool looking and not realizing the harshness of ride and cost of using rubber faster.
The "PAC OEM2 System Interface" is one such converter, although a lot of it's "extra features" are a load.
MBQuart components up front with some 6x9s in the back, powered by an old school PPI Art amp and maybe an IDQ sub would really do justice to a new Accord
I'll look into those converters you're talking about. i knew there were converters that would take speaker level to RCA, but wasnt aware there were different kinds. Im hoping the sound quality wont suffer too badly using such a setup.