hey, first of all, i am trying to decide whether i get a honda accord vp, or a camry CE. now i don't know what to do. i love the shape of the camry, but i know that there are some reviews about the transmission, also the accord will never give any issues as far as engine. i have seen accords with well over 350000 miles with no problem, something that i 've never seen in any other car, incl camry. can anyone tell me of a good price in both anywher in NJ, PA, or NY. i live in NJ, but i will travel if they give the invoice I am not on the rush; but it will be between march next year or so. and if u know the prices.
I have been browsing these forums and have benefited much from the posts here. So, here is what I paid for a 07 Accord that I bought yesterday at Anderson Honda in Palo Alto, CA. Hope it helps:
Selling Price : $24,000 Accessories: $85.00 (For Splash Guards.. It was already installed, and sells on the Honda web-site for $99.00 w/o installation and $149.00 w/installation.. So I figure it's okay? )
OTD: $26,349.64
Larry Hopkins had the same deal, but not the color that I decided on.
Honda is also offering financing at 3.9% APR up to 36 months and 4.9% APR up to 48 months.
Hi nkcar_research, congrats first! The invoice shown on edmunds.com is $24,963 (destination charge included). And factoring in the splash guard as $100+, so you are getting it $1100 below invoice?
Joe, That's great. Can you please break down your OTD to show the sales price (including destination)? I'm also in LA and looking for the same model this week.
This site was a big help in determining what a good deal is. Saturday morning I emailed 5 dealers in the Phx. area and asked for a quote on exactly what I wanted. Within 3 hours, 4 had responded- 3 with prices. I headed down to the one with the lowest price, $19,500. And the hardest part was deciding on a color. They put $200 in window tint and $100 in door edge guards on all their cars, so the real price was $19,800. But I would have added the tint anyway and it was still cheaper than anyone else. Thanks for your help, I never would have thought I could have paid less than invoice on this car.
I just purchased a 2007 honda ex auto in Baltimore area. I paid 22500 for out of door price(tax is 5%). Can any one tell me it is a good deal or not? thanks.
I live in Baltimore and I am thinking about buying a 2007 Honda EX manual. You sound like you got a pretty good deal, what dealership did you go through?
My wife went to a dealer in Maryland today to look at new Accord coupes. Salesman quoted her 36 month lease at $299/month or five year finance at $408/month. This is all in with mudflaps and door-ding guards. This includes $4500 for trade-in on existing car. According the Edmunds number the trade in should be about $900 higher, so I start there. However, I am also trying to reverse engineer what the salesman used as an OTD price.
If they are using a 3.49% interest rate for the sale, it appears that they are using an OTD price of $25,200, which is about the "what others are paying" as listed on the edmunds calculator. Can anyone tell me
Can anyone tell me: (1) what money factor a honda dealer is likely to use on a non-factory-subsidized lease; (2) what interest rate a honda dealer is likely to use on a non-subsidized sale; and (3) what the OTD price is for a 2007 Accord EX-L coupe (cool blue) with 4 banger and auto trans?
First, why in the world would you try to do this? You bargain the price on the car (should be about invoice for the car with dest and any dealer fees), then the price on the trade, then finally talk about the lease or financing.
You should find the non-factory money will not be as cheap as Honda money right now - lease or purchase.
Through 12/4 they have:
Special AHFC A.P.R. financing available on all new 2006 and 2007 Accord models. 3.9% APR financing for 24-36 months and 4.9% APR financing for 37-60 months available to customers who qualify for the AHFC Super Preferred credit tier.
If you check the rate at your bank, credit union, or online at CapitalOne you should find the Honda rate much better.
Ditto the lease. The I4 EX-L SEDAN 36/36k residual is 60% and the MF is 0.00220. The residual drops to 58% with a 36/45k lease. I would assume the coupe numbers to be similar, but I do not have them. If you check the 3rd party number at www.leasecompare.com you will see that can do 0.00258 to 0.00280 and 53-55% on a coupe.
Pretty fishy the lease payment is $299, don't you think?
Don't play payments with the dealer - you will likely lose.
Do the deal the right way - deal the car, deal the trade, make sure you are getting buy rate on the lease or finance.
This discussion group is certainly fortunate to have a knowledgeable person like Dennis (aka dwayne) to answer questions from participants. I have found his replies to be cogent and detailed. I hope that people who receive his replies appreciate his efforts. I can only further emphasize that the important figure for comparison purposes is the vehicle cost which includes the destination charge, dealer prep charges, documentation fees, and any other fees that the dealers devise. The TT&L costs are important to the purchaser to determine the the amount to be borrowed and whether the vehicle being considered fits into the budget. Take care. Thanks Dennis. Ralph
Are the majority of these quotes for I-4 Accords or V-6 Accords? I'm going to assume 4 cylinder models, but it would help if this was also outlined. Thanks.
On a separate note, how does the I-4 Accords compare to the V-6 models? I've owned a 2003 Accord EX V-6 Auto, and currently have a quote in hand for a 2007 Accord SE V-6 Auto, but have never driven the I-4 model. Is there much difference?
I wanted to thank the participants of this board (especially Dennis) for the education. I kind of lucked into finding this forum while I was comparing vs a Camry. All I knew was the traditional go to the dealer and haggle with a little research from the CR type magazines. What a wealth of info I found here. I sent out inquiries to half a dozen dealers in my area and gave a target price which was the lowest I saw posted here. The local dealers wouldn't play, but I found my Accord in San Antonio (Gunn)and paid 21,658 (incl destination) and OTD 23,300. Very good svc. from the dealer and no hassles plus I got the Honda financing. I love my car and my fears that the I4 wasn't peppy enough are unfounded. It is plenty for me and I am thrilled w/the mileage I get. Fun to drive. Thanks again.
IM LOOKING AT A ACCORD LX V-6 2007 WHICH HAS A MSRP OF 25.5 OR SOME [non-permissible content removed] LIKE THAT ....I TOLD THEM THAT I WOULD PAY 21.9 WITH THE SPOILER @ FIRST THEY WERE HESITANT BUT THEY CALLED ME 2 DAYS LATER GIVING ME THE CAR 21.9 WITH SOME 4.9% RATE ....BE RUDE,DISCOURTEOUS AND FIRM IS NESSARY ...DO NOT BE A PUSH OVER AND LOOK THE DEALER IN THE EYE ...
IF THAT DOESNT WORK TELL THEM THAT ANOTHER HONDA DEALER (AT LEAST 50 MILES AWAY) IS DOING THE SAME PRICE ...BUT YOU RATHER STAY LOCAL...(THAT SHOULD WORK)
IN CASE IT DOESNT DONT BUY THE CAR ....GO TO ANOTHER DEALER SIMPLE AS THAT
Most any Accord model should be available for about invoice or maybe less, depending on where you live. A lot of folks fail to post if they are talking about coupe or sedan, I4 or V6, so it makes it a little harder to know what is going on You can check here on edmunds and get the invoice price, any incentives, and "what others are paying" (but this may be too high based on what folks IN THIS forum are paying.
Between the SE V6 and SE I4? More money, more power, VSA (stability control), and traction control, larger alloy wheels, and brake assist. The I4 EPA numbers are 24/34 VS 20/29 for the V6. Real world numbers are a little lower on the I4, but it depends on how you drive.
Most folks say to drive the I4 and if it seems to have enough power for you, then don't drive (or buy) the V6. Having driven the V6 first, you should try the I4 but I would not do it back to back
Congrats on the new ride! That is a nice price (as long as the dealer fee is not too high). My friend just got back from Swope with his new EX-L AT I4 that he picked up yesterday. Everyone should not be afraid to travel a bit to get a better deal, our local dealers just will not deal as low as you can get with a little bit of driving.
My dad is trading his 2005 Accord on a 2007 Civic EX Sedan, picking it up tonight. He is very friendly with the sales manager we have dealt with. Dad got a price well below invoice ($17,280 on a $20,105 vehicle), and $500 or so below what people are being quote on the LX version on the prices-paid forum.
It is an amazing deal.
You have your way, but it isn't necessarily the only way.
(PS: You may not know it, but here it is typically known as YELLING when you put things in CAPS LOCK; just a little reminder).
Not everyone else has purchased 16 or 17 Hondas from the same dealership. They MAY NOT give ME the same deal they gave your father
I agree about being rude and obnoxious - not my style. If a dealer does not want to deal I just find one that will. Folks waste way too much time, energy, and emotion into what for me is usually a very simple thing.
Care to say which dealer in Birmingham? If you want to wait until the deal is done, I would understand. This price is far cheaper than the Huntsville and Atlanta area dealers.
Serra Honda. It is kind of off the beaten path; not on the interstate.
It should be noted that the person doing our deal wanted us to finalize before the end of the month. We also have a long running relationship with the dealer (it has recently changed ownership and name; formerly "Neil Bonnett Honda", but many of the same people are still there), which probably afforded us a little better price.
No haggling was done on this vehicle. The dealer named the price and payment, and dad accepted.
If you want more info, see me on the Civic boards so we can leave the Accord shoppers alone
Dad had considered a 2007 Accord EX I-4 Auto as well (cloth), and was quoted a bigger discount than the Civic - $20,575 +TTL (that price includes destination). That is $1,500 below invoice.
I'm pretty sure they will make money on our trade-in. They are giving us Blue-Book trade-in value for "good" condition; its in great condition (not even ONE door ding), but has high miles (68,000 for 2005 model car). Dealer is probably gonna get $16,000 for that car, so that's where the profit is.
The actual tax will vary a little depending on the exact city, but most are around 8.2%, license was $366 and doc. fee was $379. We ended up picking the graphite color.
Hi, Here is my quote for 2007 honda accord EX- cloth interior with all options- cargo tray, splash guards, painted strips, fabric protector, wheel locks...basically all optional accessories and the OTD(including 6.25% Tax, Title and license) is 22800..can anyone tell me if this is a good deal...i want to buy in the next 48 hrs
I live in Tacoma, Washington, and I want an EX-L V-6, 4-door sedan, automatic. I wouldn't mind nav - I don't care about the color.
I've had really good luck buying a car the last day of Dec. before and had planned to do the same thing this time - only with more preparation and going to the dealer I'd like to buy from with quotes from other dealers.
Questions:
1. Should I wait until the end of Dec? Honda's special financing is good until 12/4 and is a point lower than what my bank will give me. That's about a $600 savings over the life of the loan - will I save more than that waiting until the end of Dec?
2. How long are price quotes good for? And how long will they take to get the week after Xmas and before New Years? If I ask for quotes now, will they still be good Dec. 30? Or should I request quotes again around the holidays?
3. How do I get an actual quote from a dealer? None I've physically gone to are willing to write anything down and I contacted one Acura dealer online and they phoned me six times before quoting the sticker price. Puhleaze. How do I get the Internet sales department to email me an actual quote?
4. Since I wouldn't mind Nav, should I ask for a quote for that car and note that I'm willing to take one without nav? It seems like the nav models are rarer - I assume that's going to drive the price up more than just the cost of the equipment?
5. If I use Edmunds to contact the dealers (they list 3 in my area) should I also contact those dealers directly? And what if the dealer I want to buy from is listed on Edmunds? I'd like the salesman who helped me to get the sale, not the Internet guy.
6. Besides Edmunds, what other sites are there to gather prices?
Ummm... sorry for all the questions. I'm kind of a dork about this - I've only bought cars the "traditional" way before.
Hi 1) I dont have a trade in 2)I dont remember the exact prices of each of the options he mentioned but i added the total of all accessories and it came to 2365 3)the MSRP on the car is 23945. The invoice price is 21638.
With all those accesories (assuming you wanted them), I'd say you got OTD pretty cheaply. I have the same model car (2006 EX Cloth 5AT Sedan) and 14,500 miles later, I absolutely love it.
If you want to use the special financing, I think I would buy now. They COULD have cheap rates next month, but "who knows". If they do not, it is doubtful you could save $600 more on the price by waiting 30 days. Maybe if you waited until April or May or maybe June.
The "month" normally ends on the last day of, you guess it, the month . Often, since weekends are good selling times they will carry over specials until the following Monday - as you can see the finance special ends on Monday, the 4th. Since the dealer has no idea what incentives or other money they may get next month, most quotes will be good only until the end of the month - or maybe until the Monday following.
First step is search this thread for other folks in the WA area and see who they purchased from. Then I would use the dealer locator on the Honda page and make a list of all the dealers in an ever expanding circle from home. Then visit the web page of each of them and see if they offer online quotes or list an "internet" or fleet salesperson and try to e-mail them - if they does not work try a fax. A non-Nav Accord should be around invoice including dealer and destination. You might just put your price in the request e-mail or fax - tell them you want an EX-L V6 AT and you think the price should be (fill in invoice) including the car, destination, and all dealer fees. See what they say.
The NAV is nice, but you are correct that they are harder to come by. Dealers that will give me a hot price without batting an eye will demand more profit for a NAV car - unless you get lucky and they have a bunch of EX-L V6 w/NAVs sitting on the lot when you contact them. So in most cases the NAV will cost you more than the invoice difference between the non-NAV and NAV cars. I think I would decide if you have to have it or not, no need to confuse the issues by flopping between the two cars. Get the lowest price on it one way or the other, then see what that dealer will do if you add/subtract the NAV.
If you go through the edmunds page I would guess you should stick with that salesperson.
You can try carsdirect.com . Put in your ZIP code and see what price comes up. That is SUPPOSED to be the price that some dealer in that ZIP code area has agreed to sell the car for (plus a dealer fee, most likely). If you are a member of costco or sam's club you can go through their car pricing service as well - I think it is free to members.
I'm in Bellevue, WA and I bought the 2007 EX-L V6 Sedan Auto without NAV on Nov. 11th for 25,574 from a local dealer. I had internet price quotes ranging from 25,878 to 26,278. The car had a few dealer extras on it that I didn't have much interest in, locking lug nuts, door edge guards, and splash guards.
I'm happy with the car. It's comfortable to drive. It's the first Honda that I've owned.
Im looking at buying a 2007 Honda Accord EX-L with the following options----Moon roof viros, wheel locks, fender trim, splash guards, pin stripe, trunk tray and rear spoiler...The lowest quote I have gotten is 24,095 out the door with all fees included excluding my states taxes...Does this seem like a fair price....I have some that have quote 24400 and wont go any lower? The rear spoiler is the most exp accessory but have had it on my last two accords and like it...Just wondering if good deal or not??? Caleb
You can arrange to get an "incoming" car with no dealer extras on it. The Bellevue Honda dealer suggested that when I told him I didn't want/need the $250 worth (!?) of edge guards/package that he had added.
My dealer had to swap a car with another local dealer to get the color that I wanted. They added up all those extras and showed me the $400 "value" that I was getting. Because I'm weak, I offered to pay an additional $74 for the $39 wheel locks and they threw in the rest of the extras.
I negotiated with an online dealer (McDavid Honda of Houston)for almost a month, but got a fantastic deal with just a little perseverance. Ended up with an Ex-L V6 with locking lugs and tint (no nav.). Drive out price was 26,000. If you let the dealers know that you are willing to buy if the price is right and not just wasting their time, they will give you an excellent deal.
Here's a little primer story: I bought a new 2005 Accord V6 EX-L Sedan earlier this year (Feb 2006). A month ago, while it was parked on the street here in West LA on Halloween night, someone PLOWS into the car and it eventually is considered a TOTAL LOSS by insurance. About $31K damage on a car that was KBB at $21K.
I had to go buy another car and loved the Accord, so I hit a few dealerships.
After doing my homework and making some spreadsheets, my conception of a GOOD DEAL on a 2006 Accord V6 EX Sedan was about $26,000 out-the-door. That was a bit of a stretch, actually. I ended up getting the car at Norm Reeves Honda in Cerritos for $26,200 OTD. It has everything short of Navigation.
The formula I used for calculating my ideal price if anyone is interested:
1) Gather both the MSRP and the Invoice price for the car from several sources (Autobytel, CarsDirect, YahooAuto)
2) Take the invoice price and subtract $500 (which I gathered from research as being how much dealer incentive was given on each car)
3) From that number, then deduct 3% of the MSRP price. THIS WILL GIVE YOU TRUE DEALER COST (TDC).
4) Multiply the TDC number from #3 by 1.03. This will add in 3% profit which is reasonable for a dealer to make.
5) Then add the destination charges - approx $500
6) Multiply by 1.0xx% (your sales tax) and this will give you a reasonable number to arm yourself with to approach a dealer and not get screwed.
See it in action:
2006 Honda Accord V6 EX Sedan
1)MSRP: $27,300; Invoice: $24,300 2)$24,300 - $500= $23,800 3)$23,800 - 3% X $27,300 [$819] = $22,981 4)$22,981 X 1.03 = $23,670 5)$23,670 + $550 = $24,220 6)$24,220 X 1.0775 (Orange County Tax) = $26,097
$595 is the DESTINATION charge and is included in the $21,638 invoice. Your price with dealer fee is $338 less than invoice, which is a nice price.
However, your deal includes a trade. If your car is really worth $3,500 then you are paying over invoice for the new car. Have you checked here on edmunds, kbb, and nada for the value of your trade? If the $3,025 off is a fair price, then you have a good deal. Dennis
Hi I am about to lease or buy a new 07 accord SE v-6 AT or a EX-L 6sp MT I live in Huntington beach, CA and I was wondering what people are getting around here for those two trims.... I have a quote 21K on the SE not including tax and license and 24,500 for the EX-L.... are these quotes too high?
It is like "deja vu all over again" - same question on the same car model asked over and over. Invoice on the SE is $21,638 and the EX-L manual is $25,277. If the prices include the destination and dealer fees then they are very good prices. If the dealer is going to add the $595 destination fee on top of the quotes then they are less hot. If they are going to add the dest plus dealer fees on top then they are not that hot.
I went through Costco today and the dealer they work with was the one I wanted to buy through. I had planned to get the price from Costco and go back to the dealership I liked and ask them to match it. So much for that. Can I play salesman at the same dealership off each other?
Gee, the price they quoted me was $25,574. Hmmm. The exact same as your price brukster.
Anyway, the offer on my trade-in was $1500 below the lowest price reported by NADA/Kelly/Edmunds. So they were willing to give me an adequate price on the new car and then low balled me on the trade-in.
Did I try to bargain about the trade in? Yep, but I was given the bums' rush outta there. I don't think the salesman thought I was serious - I have not had good experiences being a woman without her man around when trying to buy a car. The salesman basically shut me down and told me that's what everyone was offering - and I wasn't able to get out that the other local dealer had offered me $800 more than he had for the trade in. And I was totally serious about buying today - I had the car title with me.
So now I've got the low email quote from the dealer I like but I'll probably end up buying from the other dealer (who was horrible to me when I visited alone and wasn't willing to deal with them) but who was willing to give me $800 more on trade in. That's just too much of a difference to ignore.
So I don't know if I'll stick with my original plan and wait until Dec. 31 or buy this weekend.
So I don't know if I'll stick with my original plan and wait until Dec. 31 or buy this weekend.
If you can (and are willing to) wait, do so. Salesmen will make better deals at the end of the month. If you can stand to do so, and price is a big objective, wait a few more months for prices to drop in anticpation of the new 2008 Accord.
I think waiting till later in the month will be helpful. It doesn't have to be the last day/week though. As an example, if the dealer has 24 cars to sell that month and it's already the 15th of the month, you have a strong position. The only way to get a feel for that is to shop multiple dealers and gauge each dealer's interest in having you stay and talk. Always be prepared to walk and be calm. You don't have to buy at that point in time.
I chose not to do a trade-in though it would have been convenient for me. I had a 1990 Toy xcab v6 with 38,000 miles on it which should be a decent trade, but by the time we reached a price I just didn't want to complicate things more. I think the taxes would have been cheaper with the trade, something I didn't consider at the time.
The 4.9% financing is worth about $600 to me with a 60 month loan. The price of the new car may not decrease by $600 by 12/31 but my bargaining power about the trade in price may.
And this salesman sure didn't seem concerned that it was the end of this month.
And this salesman sure didn't seem concerned that it was the end of this month.
I wouldn't have thought it a big deal, but the sales manager my parents just bought their Civic from (yesterday) wanted to make sure they purchased before month's end, and gave them a price they couldn't pass up. It was not a high-pressure deal (great price on two different cars - they took the 07 EX Civic for under invoice).
I bought the car from Herb Chambers Honda in Westborough, Massachusetts (west of Boston about one hour). They have a huge inventory and were the only one (of four dealers I checked) that had the model and color I wanted.
Right, I misspoke, I should have called the $595 the destination charge.
This is how the negotiations went. I submitted an internet bid of $21,300 to include all dealer charges such as destination and all documentation fees--and this was initially "accepted". But then the dealer tried to tack on the "required" $198 internal processing fee to the $21,300, but I balked. He then said that he "had to" include the fee, so he lowered the price of the car to $21,102 (including destination) and then added the $198 to make $21,300, giving me what I wanted originally.
As I understand it, the invoice on the SE V6 is $21,043 and with destination fees it is $21,638.
Depending on whether the $198 dealer processing fee is considered legitimate or not, I bought the car for $21,300 minus $595 destination minus $198 dealer processing, or $20,507, which is $536 less than the invoice of $21,043. If the $198 processing fee was just a ploy to jack up the price and not really "required", then I got the car at $338 less than invoice as you said. (I have a feeling that the $198 is a fee that many people accept on top of the car price.)
As far as the trade-in went, I looked it up on Galves.com (the dealer site for trade-in values) and my car was indeed listed at $3,050. He ended up giving me $3000 after trying to talk me down to $2500. So I feel OK about that.
Comments
Selling Price : $24,000
Accessories: $85.00 (For Splash Guards.. It was already installed, and sells on the Honda web-site for $99.00 w/o installation and $149.00 w/installation.. So I figure it's okay? )
OTD: $26,349.64
Larry Hopkins had the same deal, but not the color that I decided on.
Honda is also offering financing at 3.9% APR up to 36 months and 4.9% APR up to 48 months.
And oh yeah, I love the car..
The invoice shown on edmunds.com is $24,963 (destination charge included). And factoring in the splash guard as $100+, so you are getting it $1100 below invoice?
- nk
That's great. Can you please break down your OTD to show the sales price (including destination)? I'm also in LA and looking for the same model this week.
Thanks
i'm assuming that was the OTD price?
what is the sales tax for AZ?
thanks
me it is a good deal or not? thanks.
I live in Baltimore and I am thinking about buying a 2007 Honda EX manual. You sound like you got a pretty good deal, what dealership did you go through?
If they are using a 3.49% interest rate for the sale, it appears that they are using an OTD price of $25,200, which is about the "what others are paying" as listed on the edmunds calculator. Can anyone tell me
Can anyone tell me:
(1) what money factor a honda dealer is likely to use on a non-factory-subsidized lease;
(2) what interest rate a honda dealer is likely to use on a non-subsidized sale; and
(3) what the OTD price is for a 2007 Accord EX-L coupe (cool blue) with 4 banger and auto trans?
Thanks
You should find the non-factory money will not be as cheap as Honda money right now - lease or purchase.
Through 12/4 they have:
Special AHFC A.P.R. financing available on all new 2006 and 2007 Accord models. 3.9% APR financing for 24-36 months and 4.9% APR financing for 37-60 months available to customers who qualify for the AHFC Super Preferred credit tier.
If you check the rate at your bank, credit union, or online at CapitalOne you should find the Honda rate much better.
Ditto the lease. The I4 EX-L SEDAN 36/36k residual is 60% and the MF is 0.00220. The residual drops to 58% with a 36/45k lease. I would assume the coupe numbers to be similar, but I do not have them. If you check the 3rd party number at www.leasecompare.com you will see that can do 0.00258 to 0.00280 and 53-55% on a coupe.
Pretty fishy the lease payment is $299, don't you think?
Don't play payments with the dealer - you will likely lose.
Do the deal the right way - deal the car, deal the trade, make sure you are getting buy rate on the lease or finance.
Dennis
On a separate note, how does the I-4 Accords compare to the V-6 models? I've owned a 2003 Accord EX V-6 Auto, and currently have a quote in hand for a 2007 Accord SE V-6 Auto, but have never driven the I-4 model. Is there much difference?
Ex
IF THAT DOESNT WORK TELL THEM THAT ANOTHER HONDA DEALER (AT LEAST 50 MILES AWAY) IS DOING THE SAME PRICE ...BUT YOU RATHER STAY LOCAL...(THAT SHOULD WORK)
IN CASE IT DOESNT DONT BUY THE CAR ....GO TO ANOTHER DEALER SIMPLE AS THAT
Between the SE V6 and SE I4? More money, more power, VSA (stability control), and traction control, larger alloy wheels, and brake assist. The I4 EPA numbers are 24/34 VS 20/29 for the V6. Real world numbers are a little lower on the I4, but it depends on how you drive.
Most folks say to drive the I4 and if it seems to have enough power for you, then don't drive (or buy) the V6. Having driven the V6 first, you should try the I4 but I would not do it back to back
Dennis
Dennis
It is an amazing deal.
You have your way, but it isn't necessarily the only way.
(PS: You may not know it, but here it is typically known as YELLING when you put things in CAPS LOCK; just a little reminder).
thegrad
I agree about being rude and obnoxious - not my style. If a dealer does not want to deal I just find one that will. Folks waste way too much time, energy, and emotion into what for me is usually a very simple thing.
Dennis
It should be noted that the person doing our deal wanted us to finalize before the end of the month. We also have a long running relationship with the dealer (it has recently changed ownership and name; formerly "Neil Bonnett Honda", but many of the same people are still there), which probably afforded us a little better price.
No haggling was done on this vehicle. The dealer named the price and payment, and dad accepted.
If you want more info, see me on the Civic boards so we can leave the Accord shoppers alone
Dad had considered a 2007 Accord EX I-4 Auto as well (cloth), and was quoted a bigger discount than the Civic - $20,575 +TTL (that price includes destination). That is $1,500 below invoice.
I'm pretty sure they will make money on our trade-in. They are giving us Blue-Book trade-in value for "good" condition; its in great condition (not even ONE door ding), but has high miles (68,000 for 2005 model car). Dealer is probably gonna get $16,000 for that car, so that's where the profit is.
Here is my quote for 2007 honda accord EX- cloth interior with all options- cargo tray, splash guards, painted strips, fabric protector, wheel locks...basically all optional accessories and the OTD(including 6.25% Tax, Title and license) is 22800..can anyone tell me if this is a good deal...i want to buy in the next 48 hrs
Do you have a trade-in?
Do you have an itemized list on the price (meaning price of car, price of individual options, etc...)?
Accessories are usually much more expensive than they should be.
I live in Tacoma, Washington, and I want an EX-L V-6, 4-door sedan, automatic. I wouldn't mind nav - I don't care about the color.
I've had really good luck buying a car the last day of Dec. before and had planned to do the same thing this time - only with more preparation and going to the dealer I'd like to buy from with quotes from other dealers.
Questions:
1. Should I wait until the end of Dec? Honda's special financing is good until 12/4 and is a point lower than what my bank will give me. That's about a $600 savings over the life of the loan - will I save more than that waiting until the end of Dec?
2. How long are price quotes good for? And how long will they take to get the week after Xmas and before New Years? If I ask for quotes now, will they still be good Dec. 30? Or should I request quotes again around the holidays?
3. How do I get an actual quote from a dealer? None I've physically gone to are willing to write anything down and I contacted one Acura dealer online and they phoned me six times before quoting the sticker price. Puhleaze. How do I get the Internet sales department to email me an actual quote?
4. Since I wouldn't mind Nav, should I ask for a quote for that car and note that I'm willing to take one without nav? It seems like the nav models are rarer - I assume that's going to drive the price up more than just the cost of the equipment?
5. If I use Edmunds to contact the dealers (they list 3 in my area) should I also contact those dealers directly? And what if the dealer I want to buy from is listed on Edmunds? I'd like the salesman who helped me to get the sale, not the Internet guy.
6. Besides Edmunds, what other sites are there to gather prices?
Ummm... sorry for all the questions. I'm kind of a dork about this - I've only bought cars the "traditional" way before.
heather
1) I dont have a trade in
2)I dont remember the exact prices of each of the options he mentioned but i added the total of all accessories and it came to 2365
3)the MSRP on the car is 23945. The invoice price is 21638.
Mine is graphite, what color is yours?
The "month" normally ends on the last day of, you guess it, the month
First step is search this thread for other folks in the WA area and see who they purchased from. Then I would use the dealer locator on the Honda page and make a list of all the dealers in an ever expanding circle from home. Then visit the web page of each of them and see if they offer online quotes or list an "internet" or fleet salesperson and try to e-mail them - if they does not work try a fax. A non-Nav Accord should be around invoice including dealer and destination. You might just put your price in the request e-mail or fax - tell them you want an EX-L V6 AT and you think the price should be (fill in invoice) including the car, destination, and all dealer fees. See what they say.
The NAV is nice, but you are correct that they are harder to come by. Dealers that will give me a hot price without batting an eye will demand more profit for a NAV car - unless you get lucky and they have a bunch of EX-L V6 w/NAVs sitting on the lot when you contact them. So in most cases the NAV will cost you more than the invoice difference between the non-NAV and NAV cars. I think I would decide if you have to have it or not, no need to confuse the issues by flopping between the two cars. Get the lowest price on it one way or the other, then see what that dealer will do if you add/subtract the NAV.
If you go through the edmunds page I would guess you should stick with that salesperson.
You can try carsdirect.com . Put in your ZIP code and see what price comes up. That is SUPPOSED to be the price that some dealer in that ZIP code area has agreed to sell the car for (plus a dealer fee, most likely). If you are a member of costco or sam's club you can go through their car pricing service as well - I think it is free to members.
Dennis
I'm happy with the car. It's comfortable to drive. It's the first Honda that I've owned.
Of course I know they add stuff like that on there so they can get a higher price - but what if I don't care about wheel locks?
My dealer had to swap a car with another local dealer to get the color that I wanted. They added up all those extras and showed me the $400 "value" that I was getting. Because I'm weak, I offered to pay an additional $74 for the $39 wheel locks and they threw in the rest of the extras.
I had to go buy another car and loved the Accord, so I hit a few dealerships.
After doing my homework and making some spreadsheets, my conception of a GOOD DEAL on a 2006 Accord V6 EX Sedan was about $26,000 out-the-door. That was a bit of a stretch, actually. I ended up getting the car at Norm Reeves Honda in Cerritos for $26,200 OTD. It has everything short of Navigation.
The formula I used for calculating my ideal price if anyone is interested:
1) Gather both the MSRP and the Invoice price for the car from several sources (Autobytel, CarsDirect, YahooAuto)
2) Take the invoice price and subtract $500 (which I gathered from research as being how much dealer incentive was given on each car)
3) From that number, then deduct 3% of the MSRP price. THIS WILL GIVE YOU TRUE DEALER COST (TDC).
4) Multiply the TDC number from #3 by 1.03. This will add in 3% profit which is reasonable for a dealer to make.
5) Then add the destination charges - approx $500
6) Multiply by 1.0xx% (your sales tax) and this will give you a reasonable number to arm yourself with to approach a dealer and not get screwed.
See it in action:
2006 Honda Accord V6 EX Sedan
1)MSRP: $27,300; Invoice: $24,300
2)$24,300 - $500= $23,800
3)$23,800 - 3% X $27,300 [$819] = $22,981
4)$22,981 X 1.03 = $23,670
5)$23,670 + $550 = $24,220
6)$24,220 X 1.0775 (Orange County Tax) = $26,097
There you have it folks.
plus $198 dealer prep charge = $21,300 selling price
minus $3025 for trade-in=$18,275 for car
plus $903.25 sales tax
$297 title/registration (standard)
total net cost=$19,475.25
Royal Blue Pearl--the only color I would buy for this model
The SE V6 is a new model Accord for 2007 and is the true sweet spot of the line-up.
However, your deal includes a trade. If your car is really worth $3,500 then you are paying over invoice for the new car. Have you checked here on edmunds, kbb, and nada for the value of your trade? If the $3,025 off is a fair price, then you have a good deal.
Dennis
That's been a rumor for a while but I've heard it confirmed.
Dennis
Gee, the price they quoted me was $25,574. Hmmm. The exact same as your price brukster.
Anyway, the offer on my trade-in was $1500 below the lowest price reported by NADA/Kelly/Edmunds. So they were willing to give me an adequate price on the new car and then low balled me on the trade-in.
Did I try to bargain about the trade in? Yep, but I was given the bums' rush outta there. I don't think the salesman thought I was serious - I have not had good experiences being a woman without her man around when trying to buy a car. The salesman basically shut me down and told me that's what everyone was offering - and I wasn't able to get out that the other local dealer had offered me $800 more than he had for the trade in. And I was totally serious about buying today - I had the car title with me.
So now I've got the low email quote from the dealer I like but I'll probably end up buying from the other dealer (who was horrible to me when I visited alone and wasn't willing to deal with them) but who was willing to give me $800 more on trade in. That's just too much of a difference to ignore.
So I don't know if I'll stick with my original plan and wait until Dec. 31 or buy this weekend.
If you can (and are willing to) wait, do so. Salesmen will make better deals at the end of the month. If you can stand to do so, and price is a big objective, wait a few more months for prices to drop in anticpation of the new 2008 Accord.
I chose not to do a trade-in though it would have been convenient for me. I had a 1990 Toy xcab v6 with 38,000 miles on it which should be a decent trade, but by the time we reached a price I just didn't want to complicate things more. I think the taxes would have been cheaper with the trade, something I didn't consider at the time.
And this salesman sure didn't seem concerned that it was the end of this month.
I wouldn't have thought it a big deal, but the sales manager my parents just bought their Civic from (yesterday) wanted to make sure they purchased before month's end, and gave them a price they couldn't pass up. It was not a high-pressure deal (great price on two different cars - they took the 07 EX Civic for under invoice).
This is how the negotiations went. I submitted an internet bid of $21,300 to include all dealer charges such as destination and all documentation fees--and this was initially "accepted". But then the dealer tried to tack on the "required" $198 internal processing fee to the $21,300, but I balked. He then said that he "had to" include the fee, so he lowered the price of the car to $21,102 (including destination) and then added the $198 to make $21,300, giving me what I wanted originally.
As I understand it, the invoice on the SE V6 is $21,043 and with destination fees it is $21,638.
Depending on whether the $198 dealer processing fee is considered legitimate or not, I bought the car for $21,300 minus $595 destination minus $198 dealer processing, or $20,507, which is $536 less than the invoice of $21,043. If the $198 processing fee was just a ploy to jack up the price and not really "required", then I got the car at $338 less than invoice as you said. (I have a feeling that the $198 is a fee that many people accept on top of the car price.)
As far as the trade-in went, I looked it up on Galves.com (the dealer site for trade-in values) and my car was indeed listed at $3,050. He ended up giving me $3000 after trying to talk me down to $2500. So I feel OK about that.