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Just wanted to give an update that yesterday (9/30/07) I purchased a 2007 Accord EXL-NAVI Black Auto 4-cyl in MD $23,350 OTD w/ Side molding thrown in ($22,038 before taxes + tags). To help you guys follow along in my quest, I have replied to an earlier post which was showing my best prices as of 9/28.
Actually, a correction to that post, it turns out that Dealer #3 did first email me on Tues, 9/25 saying their quote was $24,300 OTD (for their Silver Sedan) which to me wasn't a big deal because they were just beating a closer dealer by like $30 or $40. But then they emailed me again on thurs 9/27 saying they would do $23,400 OTD.
I didn't notice the swap of the "3" and "4" until Saturday morning (9/29) and got pretty excited about the fast $900 drop in price. I actually thought it was a misprint so I shot dealer #3 an email saying if the quote is $23,400, then I would like to come in because that's my lowest price.
Dealer #3 replied and said yes, but then followed it with a "I'm not interested if you don't buy this car by tomorrow.. all my incentives are going to expire... I've waited too long for just this one deal... " etc. So I got turned off to wanting to deal with him. Plus, a) he had a sedan (this car is for my wife and she really wanted a coupe) and b) he was the furthest away.
So I shot an email to a few other dealers I had been working with, and asked if they could beat the price of $23,400 OTD.
Also, one of the dealers had shot me an earlier email telling me he had a Black Coupe w/ nav that had been scuffed in the parking lot and had been repaired. It looked brand new again, but they weren't allowed to sell it as brand new so he could discount $350 on that (off his quoted price that is). So my email TO THAT DEALER was basically give me that car for $23,000 OTD in MD and he replied he could probably get close, but not that number.
that was good enough so me, my dad, and my wife went in made our offer for $23,000 OTD for the "repaired" black one and the salesman came back with $23,350 from the manager. We said we were walking because we knew we could do $23,400 for sure on a Silver Sedan at Dealer #3 and wanted the $350 discount on this one. Then the manager came in and said that he can't go any lower because he was losing $500 on this car, he couldn't lose $800. So we settled on $23,350 w/ Side molding thrown in. A backup camera was out - they don't offer those on the Accords apparently. And after the fact, we realized that maybe we should have considered fog lights, but those may have been too expensive of an option to work in anyways.
I'm ALMOST perfectly happy with that price. I had gotten an email from a dealer or two that told me that the coupes had better incentives than the sedans. So I wonder if I could do lower on this based on Dealer #3's quote of $23,400 OTD on a sedan. Maybe my target should have been $22,900 for the Coupe.
And the 2nd thing is that when we said no to the first response back from the dealer for $23,350, the salesman said something along the lines of lets just do $23,400 on the new coupe (instead of this "repaired" black one) then and maybe I should have done that because I did prefer the cool blue color to the black. But I kind of lost that opportunity when the manager came back and my dad and him were talking and settled on the side molding being what sealed the deal.
I saw an internal sheet later that did show the dealer losing $500 or so on the car so I want to say what the manager said to us was genuine. I guess they had to make their end of the month quota? I'm not sure. Anyways, there are still more '07 Accords w/ Nav scattered around the area so if anyone's looking, hopefully my price can be something of reference.
Here's the breakdown:
MSRP $24,250 with an SE discount of $900
Final MSRP of $23,945
Offered:
$19,600
+ $299 dealer conveyance
+ $1,205 tax
+ $173 license and reg
$21,466 Total
The conveyance charge was printed on the invoice to give the illusion of it being a fixed fee. Totally bogus but salesperson would not budge. Another dealer I had purchased from had a conveyance fee of $150 but sadly didn't have any '07s.
Overall I think it's a good deal but would love other opinions.
I asked for OTD price and they finally gave me on after delay. However, they e-mailed me again the next day and told me they have sold out the model I wanted. I guess they really do not have any car without these useless packages. Manager is a nice guy though.
Anyway, if you are local, it is Ok to stop by and take a look. However, if you are not living in Chiago, make sure you have OTD and vechile number before you make the trip.
Here is the pricing you requested on the 2008 Honda Accord EXL with Nav 4 cyl:
2008 Accord EXL Nav 4Cyl: 27945 which includes destination
Doc fee: 599
Plate fee: 21
Taxes at 7%: 1998.08
Total DRIVE OUT: 30563.08
The documentation fee is absurd right? How about the Total drive out of $30,563.08? I have never bought a car before and wanted some input about what I should do with this quote I just got. Thanks.
Yes, this is the standard price, but the doc fee is TOO HIGH!
Now, I want this NEW 2008 ACCORD COUPE... BUT, need to get it at a good price for it to work out. I want to get the MOST I can for the money, so ALL trims are game, but my target is the EX-L, and WISHFUL thinking is the EX-L V6.
Being that this car is new, can you, EXPERIENCED BUYERS OUT THERE, tell me what is the LOWEST (or how much off MSRP) I could possibly go on this Coupe???
Keep in mind, I am going to go through a Credit Union that deals with certain dealerships, and they say (THEY SAY) that their customers usually get the price a LITTLE BIT ABOVE INVOICE (not MSRP).
Also, are any of you seeing any of the coupes showing up at the dealerships? In Houston, there are 2 dealerships that I know of that are only getting in 1 or 2 in this week. And one dealership tells me that if I have to order one, it would take 1 to 2 MONTHS!!! When do you think they will have a good stock of Coupes at the dealerships?
Thanks for your help...
You could probably easily find another dealer who will sell for several hundred less than that today. If you wait 90 days, you can probably find a dealer who will sell for around $1500-2000 less than that price. Maybe $1,000-1500 off the MSRP and $99 doc fee. That equals $1500-2000 total less than that quote.
Dennis
2008s are going to cost a lot more because of the number of people willing to pay high prices to be first on the block with the new coupe.
That said the coupe will probably be in high demand and as previously said on this board, they are selling at MSRP. I have a 99 coupe but still have room for the sedan at the house. I think that if i got the coupe for $1,000 over invoice in the next month i got a really good deal. Just get ready to pay more if you want the coupe right now. That's my two cents worth.
RE rattle, is the sound coming from the rear passenger side panel, behind the cover that hides the jack? If so, it may be the jack that's rattling/vibrating. On our '07 I4 EX, there's a vibrating/resonating sound coming from that area and I managed to isolate it to the jack stand itself! (I think it's the metal/plate of the jack). So I took a towel and wrapped the jackstand and the vibration sound went away.
Regards,
David
When would be a good time to buy? I'm sure the BEST time to buy is MODEL YEAR END, around August of next year, right before the 2009's come out. Clearance time. BUT, I don't want to wait that long.
Plus, I wanted to get a good amount for my 99 4 door Accord now, to pay off one small balance credit card and knock out some of the balance on another card that has a high balance. The longer I wait, the less I could get for the car I have now, plus the more interest my credit card charges me!
The price difference between what you can get a 2008 for in October vs December or January will be will be much higher than a 99 Accord will depreciate between now and January.
I'm probably in the minority these days, but I'd have a hard time signing up for more debt before I'd paid off my earlier debt.
6 months or a year isn't going to affect your depreciation terribly. Your depreciation amount would be MUCH higher on the new Accord. The amount of depreciation gets lower and lower with each passing year.
That being said, if you are still determined to have a new Accord, I sure wouldn't buy one for more than a couple hundred over invoice. When that price comes, I'd look at them, but not before.
Remember that the coupe will initially be about ten percent of production. Neither you or i want to wait till model year end so we may have to pay a little more. If hard pressed for money go with the 4 cylinder. Either way i recommend that you go for it when you can. There will always be someone on the board that will second guess you or got a better price.
Regards,
Don
They want to sell as much of everything as they can and the coupes are less popular, so they adjust their production to match the lower sales.
The coupes are hard to buy right now because they just came out and the sedans have had a few weeks head start in deliveries and therefore are much easier to find on the lots than a coupe today.
Getting a loan through this Credit Union, gives me a chance to deal with the FLEET MANAGER at certain dealerships. NORMAL customers can't talk to FLEET SALES. Typically the Credit Union customers get a price AROUND INVOICE at these particular dealerships. That's the kind of DEAL they have going with each other.
Well, I found out that the sales guy I've been keeping in touch with is also involved with the FLEET SALES, so I've emailed and left a message last night, asking him to get back at me about it....
...NOTHING YET...
A couple weeks ago, when I was just a NORMAL customer, HE CONTACTED ME RIGHT AWAY...
... NOW, NOTHING...
I hope it's just that he's off today.
Might as well wait, I guess...
It makes sense that they haven't talked price yet, or at least finalized the deal, since it takes 2 months to get the car. I guess the dealership feels like even if they don't make a deal, at least they have stock on the lot? I wonder if I should do that...
Please give me name of that dealer too. My email: Vietsi2002@yahoo.com Thanks.
Mack
Thanks in advance.
You might try to post your question in the Accord Lease Forum. You'll probably get better advice there. I did see where they said there that the best current money factor from Honda Finance is .000275, so you should qualify for that. Did you apply directly to Honda finance, or is your dealer presenting you with this offer? The dealer's finance department could be tacking on something extra.
Honda finance has an online application that you can fill out and it goes directly to them---sort of like a pre-approval. Then you can take that to the dealer. It should make it hard for the dealer to slip something in on you.
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Actually, you're incorrect newhonda07. An LX V6 is an upgrade from a SE V6, therefore, costs more than the SE V6. These features from the LX V6 adds to the SE V6:
Comfort and Convenience Features:
8-way power driver seat, heated power mirrors, power sunroof.
I paid $20,000 OTD for an SE V6 but I don't know if I would spend the extra $1,466 for the Convenience Package.
Actually OTD ended up being $21,265. They took off the cost of the VIN etching. It's funny how some costs are printed directly on the invoice. I would imagine people just accept the cost. I never pay for VIN etching. Bogus charge.
Anyways, it's a smooth ride. Very happy with the purchase.
The MF you were quoted is 9.0% effective which is a terrible rate. The dealer can mark up the lease money factor for extra profit, but MOST Honda dealers do not do this. What is likely is they quoted you a non-Honda lease rate - a dealer where they make more money. Ask them for the AHFC lease rates and see what they say.
You can also go third party lease - check www.leasecompare.com and see what they will do on the car. Surely their rate will be less than 9%! They would buy the car from the dealer at your price and then lease it to you. It looks like for an 07 SE it would be 0.00261 with a 48% residual or 0.00310 with a 50% residual. You have to compare those with what the dealer offers - normally the captive finance residual (from AHFC) will be higher than a 3rd party bank will do.
Dennis
I should have mentioned in my other reply that most lease banks use a special "auto enhanced" version of the score - and this is something you and I can't see and don't know. It give special weight to paid off car loans and leases and on time payments on them. So if you had ZERO car credit history, but an 800 score, the "auto enhanced" number may be pulled down too low for tier 1 rates. Likewise if you have a tier 2 score but lots of good car credit history, the "auto enhanced" number might be pulled up enough for you to get tier 1 rates.
Dennis
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I am sure you are, you got a very good deal. I sometimes wonder if I should have gotten my 2007 EX-L with a NAV, oh well...
$22,560 ePrice + $635 destination + $499 customer service
= $23,694 + 6% Tax of $1,353.60 + title + warranty $21
= approx. $25,068.60 OTD
I am seeking no more than $22,000 including destination, OTD no more than $23,500. The salesman countered with $24,700 OTD.
This dealership charges $499 for Customer Service, so I am looking to get that back in the base price, or otherwise...
What do you all think? Thanks.
MSRP EX 2.4 MT 22060 +fgt 595/635 = 22655/22695
Invoice 20988 +595/635 21583/21623
MSRP EX 2.4 AT 23860 + 595/635 = 24455/24495
Invoice 21618 + 595/635 +22212/22253
I personally have never paid a doc fee, conv. fee, to any dealer and have bought 6 Accords and one Pilot since 1986 ....vote with your feet....remember every day they are making more of these I've always waited several weeks or even months to get my deal usually 200 over invoice. A good time is between Turkey Day and New Years when they can't give them away!
Good Luck, remember the BUYER is always in control of the deal!
You are right. I will not stand for the $499 dealer fee; I am dealing with them on my OTD goal of $23,500. I figure a few more weeks to get the dealers hungry, then I will have a better shot, as you say. By the holiday season or after new year, for them, it will be slim picking on new car customers.
I have encountered a few dealers who are quoting MSRP, or a few hundred less, I told them what it would take for me to sign the contract, and I haven't heard back. Let time take its course, I am bet I will hear from most of them about their "deals" in a few weeks, if not days.
Does $23,500 OTD sound like a good deal? Thanks.
Specifically, I'm looking for the invoice price on the 2008 EX-L Manual sedan.