2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    blue, "no haggle" dealerships usually don't last long.

    People say they want a great no haggle price and a few actually do.

    The majority, however will simply write down that price and use it to have another store beat it. It's a no win situation.

    In my later years, the majority of my business was to repeat and referral customers. I didn't take many "fresh ups"

    I was never foolish enough to give a customer a hard number to shop and I was always happy when another store would do that.

    It always amazed me how many hours and how many miles some people would drive to save 100.00. Yes, 100.00

    I would have LOVED having a "no dicker" sticker but I wouldn't have sold many cars!
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAMember Posts: 980
    edited October 2013
    isellhondas,

    "People say they want a great no haggle price and a few actually do. " I am part of that minority :)

    I have seen a few ads on tv here in MA about no haggle dealerships recently. I think it was this one: http://www.harr.com/index.htm (non-Honda dealer). You can read more about their "No Negotiation Required" tag line: http://www.harr.com/perfect-pricing.htm. A few Honda dealers in the Boston metro area have similar tag lines:

    - Honda North : One Stop, No Hassle, Value Pricing (http://www.hondanorth.com/purchasing-made-simple.htm)
    - Weymouth Honda : Where there is NO fine print! (http://www.weymouthhonda.com/)

    I did not end up buying from any of those two dealerships. Honda North did not have the lowest price and they played too many games with me. Although, Weymouth Honda claims to have some of the best pricing and no fine print, their price was not competitive.

    Let's see how long these dealerships stay in Business.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Why the heck would you buy a '13 for only 400 less than a 14. THINK ABOUT THIS FOR JUST A MOMENT. Do you ever plan to sell the car? Never ever? Then maybe its worth it. But hardly anyone says they will NEVER sell the car. When it comes time to sell, and the date is June 12, 2017 or whatever, go plug in the values for a 2013 car vs a 2014 with same miles. It will be like 1500-2500 lower on the 2013 with same miles. So you got a discount of 400 YAYYYY! but you'll lose more than that when it comes time to sell. Nobody cares whether it was a Day 2 2013 or a Day 357 2013......it is a 2013.......
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    [It always amazed me how many hours and how many miles some people would drive to save 100.00. Yes, 100.00 ]

    I know people say this, but I will drive over to Menards rather than Home Depot to save 3.00 on something. I agree there can be stupidity like driving 2 hrs round trip and wasting gas and time just to save $100, but by the same token just because $100 is less of a PERCENTAGE of the overall purchase price doesn't mean it still isn't worth $100 in real money. If you were buying $110 in groceries and I told you that if you drove 25 minutes to a different suburb and you could get the same groceries for $10 because there was a FREE HUNDRED DOLLAR COUPON you got in the mail for groceries, you don't think lots and lots of people would say Holy Shnikes - yeah I'll drive over to that market to get $100 in free groceries! Economically what's the difference? There is none....
  • squashpilesquashpile Member Posts: 7
    I'm not and I agree. I was just posting what I was told. That is nuts only $400.
    It would d have to be 2-3K at least I would think. I though his '14 was reasonable, but I'm not sure. I'm going to keep checking on '13 models.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Yeah my guess is they will sell any remaining '13s for much more than 2-3K off (that doesn't mean it is a good deal by the way)......

    I think people don't really think through the logic, so a good salesman can say "Hey listen, I have a great deal right now on a 2013. My boss is pressuring me to move it to make way for 2014s. IT IS THE SAME EXACT CAR! How about I give you $500 off and we make a deal...will really win me points with the boss, and you are getting the SAME CAR and pocketing $500! $500 is a lot of money! Deal???"

    And there will be people that will bite on that all day long, because they are just focusing on two sound bites "SAME EXACT CAR" and "500 CASH SAVINGS"

    When it comes time to sell, if they thought about it, they'd do a "D'OH" facepalm.....
  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    This subject has been posted quite a few times by me. If your late model 2013 Accord is totaled or stolen in that first year you stand to lose the most money. At this time of the year you want to buy a 2013 closer to 2k. At 400 to 800 in price difference between years the 2014 should be your clear cut choice. Unless your keeping vehicle 7 or more years. At 6 years or more is when both years are about 1500 dollars apart.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • squashpilesquashpile Member Posts: 7
    Yes I agree.. It would have to be AT LEAST 2K for me to bite. We plan on driving this car for 6+ years easy.
    That OTD price on the '14 does not seem too bad.
    I' waiting on more emails now..
    Thanks again guys..
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    " What's the difference...there is none"

    Yeah, I suppose but I can tell you I sure wouldn't make a 150 mile round trip to save 100.00. My time alone is worth more than that.

    Yet, I saw people do just that.

    I would sell these people cars knowing some poor salesperson had spent three hours on a busy Saturday with this "smart shopper" showing cars, driving cars etc.

    To each his own I suppose...
  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    edited October 2013
    My suggestion to you is find a 2013 model of your choice on a dealers lot. You need a target price to negotiate with dealers to get your lowest price..

    Read thru blues post #'s for some more helpful tips on buying and you should be able to work a good deal.

    You should have a target price. 2000 below invoice on the 2013 is a good starting point. work back up to invoice price making your best deal.. Any deal that goes below 1500 off the invoice price do not make. Consider a 2014.

    2014 model target price = 600 below invoice back to invoice would be in line with prices we see across the country. That should be your price guide to buy.
    Always try to buy at months end where you will get dealerships lowest price.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    It's all perception.

    " WOW, I can save 400.00 by buying a 2013 instead of an identical 2014??

    You won't save 2K. Not even close.

    This is a no brainer. Go with the 2014!
  • squashpilesquashpile Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2013
    I'm seeing 2014 EX-L invoice about $26,650 on CR.
    The only EX-L 2014 price I have so far is $26,300/27,753 OTD (doc fee, tax,title). I may just drop looking for the 2013 and work with this '14 OTD price. That price includes all the dealer crap (plash guards, wheel locks, pinstripe, and paint sealant) that I don't want too.

    I'm in a bad car situation right now so I have to get something soon. I hate paying for all that add on junk, but I'm not sure I have the time to haggle over getting a car with none of that on it. It seems like all the local dealers are adding that stuff.

    Thanks for the info Brian.
  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    edited October 2013
    Here is the rule of thumb in my book. Consider how much you make in one day.

    A 500 dollar saving for a 100 mile vehicle pick up. Consider it a days pay. Most people dont come close to 500 a day. Any trip longer is a judgment call depending on how much more than 500 dollars your getting.

    If you guys learn how to buy a vehicle buy phone and seal deal by fax paperwork a 100 to 300 mile deal is very easy and fast when you pick up vehicle. Of coarse if there is a trade in and your credit is bad would be a problem. Cash customers like myself makes these deals a homerun.
    make this same deal for 1000 less than every one else. Why not. Deals like i'm talking about are done all over the country by educated buyers who know how to buy cars. Fast transaction when picking up vehicle. No back room guy involved anymore.. all paperwork and pricing is done. just a pick up in most cases.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    listen i'm running out. On the quick side here.. Read thru blue's buying tips and off my head here are a couple of my old post numbers that might apply to you.
    30550
    30558
    30575
    30642
    30660
    30662
    30723

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    Dealers usually pre install these accessories as soon as the cars arrive.

    If you buy an INCOMING 2014 (make sure they have a VIN number) you can simply ask them not to install any accessories.

    Personally I want Splash Guards and the way people love to steal those expensive alloy wheels, I get the locks too but that's me.
  • plagwateplagwate Member Posts: 24
    Yes, however some of them add them later but never update the online profile of the car. When I went to pick this car up this past weekend, I was surprised to find it had been pimped out with aerodynamic trim, a raised spoiler and chrome wheels. The dealer never mentioned this in our correspondence or phone call. He didn't think I would mind the $3,000+ in extra accessories. Take a look. None of that crap is shown in the photos.

    http://www.hondamallofgeorgia.com/detail-2014-honda-accord_sdn-4dr_v6_auto_ex~l-- new-11040148.html
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Can't you have them UNINSTALL this cr8p? I mean it takes them 6 minutes to add on some plastic splashguards....why can't it take them 6 minutes to take them off again before they deliver me the car so I can save $300 or whatever ridiculously inflated price they are charging? Same with wheel locks. Probably takes 90 seconds at worst.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Brian (or IsellHondas or others....)

    What is best advice on how to negotiate a trade in? I know to "keep the trade out" when obtaining quotes from internet/phone. But let's say I have 4 dealers, and they're all within a couple hundred bucks of each other and it is a good price that I'm willing to pay.

    Cheapest dealer is 70 miles away, next is 25, and the two most expensive are 8 miles and 15 miles away.

    WHAT IS BEST WAY TO GET THE TRADE IN THE MIX NOW?

    1) I realize it is "always" better to sell the car yourself, according to popular advice. But in Illinois you can save on sales taxes with the trade, so if I can get a trade in price that is NOT TOO FAR away (ie 80-90% of the amount I'd expect to get in a private sale), I'd do that all day long to avoid the hassles of selling through Craigslist, having weirdos come to my house and dicker with me, etc. After taxes that would get me close enough.....

    2) IS it reasonable to ask a dealer to quote me a trade in price based solely on the make/model/mileage of the car? I'd actually happily sell at around KBB value here on my BMW. I know dealers will say "you need to bring it in so we can drive it first" but IS IT REASONABLE to get them to quote me the trade and then agree the Honda purchase price AND the minimum trade in price before I venture over to their dealership to close the deal?

    Obviously the trade confuses things potentially AND GIVES LEVERAGE BACK TO THE DEALER....if he knows I just drove 70 miles to save $200 on the Accord, he can offer me $4000 for my $7000 value BMW and gamble that I won't walk on the deal and drive home 70 miles empty handed.

    I'd like to establish whether dealer A will offer $7,000 for the KBB $7,000 "trade in" quote while dealer B will offer $5,000, so I can focus on best overall deal.

    SO WHAT IS BEST WAY TO DO THIS IN PRACTICE???? Any tips very much appreciated. This is one part of the whole thing that I haven't yet mastered......
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    Now, THAT is really bad!

    " He didn't think I would mind" ???????????

    I've never even heard of aerodynamic trim on an Accord and spoliers quit being popular years ago. Chrome wheels when the car already comes with a nice set of alloys??

    Yep, some dealers do this with phone shoppers. They lured you in with a low price and then tried to ambush you with those expensive accessories.

    He didn't think you would mind. Unbelievable

    Maybe one out of ten people simply cave in at that point, exhausted from the fight and go ahead and buy the car even though they were lied to.

    I remember there were stores we wouldn't trade with because they would add stuff like that. Especially on Pilots and Odysseys.

    I would have been p***ed!!
  • joelv88joelv88 Member Posts: 7
    Brian,

    I don't feel bad at all for the dealership who "lost" money on my transaction. If they are a viable business, they would not give me the car for that amount of money and "lose money" on the transaction.

    Car buying is no different than any other commodity item that we purchase except for one thing - prices are driven by consumer demand and manufacturer supply. MSRP is dictated by the manufacturer with the idea of some amoutn of that going direct to the manufacturer and some amount of that going to the dealer / regional distributor / transportation / other middle men in the transaction.

    Like any viable business, car - makers and dealers DO NOT make their "COST" transparent and visible to the customer. The invoice price, information regarding rebates, and holdback are a great place to enable to cuonsumer to set a target price; however, it is by no means the absolute BOTTOM line for the car dealership. If it was then everyone would be buying vehicles for 100-300 dollars above that cost.

    The fact of the matter is that on some transactions, dealers make upwards of 1000 dollars profit on a new vehicle (through financing, insurance, extended warranties, and padded accessories).

    Keep in mind that one specific transaction does not break the bank for the dealer. They are in the business of selling HUNDREDS of cars a month, and they stay in business by reaching sales targets and obtaining incentives from the manufacturer for putting their vehicles on the road.

    Honda is coming back with a great product and is taking direct aim at Toyota, Nissan, etc.. and they have very agressive MSRP to start with. If you work with multiple dealers directly, let them know that they are competing for your business, you will get the best possible price with some patience.

    Of course, this depends on how urgent you need the vehicle and how willing you are to negotiate. For some people this is a burden. For others like myself (slickdealer for life!) it is required before I make most large transactions.

    The dealer that sold me the vehicle for 1300 below invoice will get repeat referrals from me to any friend that I can recommend. They will get the benefit of service from me for the remainder of the period that I own the car.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    I would love to see you install four splash guards in six minutes or a set of wheel locks in 90 seconds even if you had a hoist and air tools.

    Oh, a store **could** uninstall them but the shop would charge the sales dept more labor than it would be worth. If a customer was THAT tight with the buck the store would probably just not charge for them.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    In states where there is a sales tax credit it can be wiser to trade your old car in for the reasons you mentioned and more.

    I know a private seller who was forced to pay half of a new transmission on a car he had sold three months earlier. A long and unhappy story.

    Do not conceal your trade. Dealers hate this. You want them to be upfront so you should be as well. I could always smell a "hidden trade" and most veterans can.

    They DO have to see your trade in. People often think their perfect little trade is better than it really is.

    Beware, if you are phone shopping, a lot of stores will tell you that they have a buyer waiting for your car and they will quote you much more than it's worth just to get you to come in.

    I use to tell them..." I don't want to guess and be wrong. Our used car department routinely pays the most for nice trades". And, they did!

    Once you get there, they may make some phone calls in order to get a "buy bid" on your trade in. They won't pay you more than it worth and they won't pay you more then similar cars are bringing at auction.

    They don't want to lose a sale over a trade in.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Thanks. Would like to hear Brian's view too!

    Re: your statement "don't conceal the trade".....what does that mean? I mean I don't HAVE TO trade the car....I think I could get somewhere between 7500-8000 for the car. A dealer will list it for $9995 guaranteed.....it is a very low mileage BMW and looks awesome when washed and waxed. The dealer will probably target to sell it for 8-something or more. So yes, I'd be happy to trade for around $7000 which is coincidentally the value shown on KBB. Yet my experience with trades in the past will be that the dealer will offer me $4500 for it. At $4500 on the trade, I'll be happy to list it on Craigslist and sell it for $3000 more than that.

    So do I just be upfront with the dealer and say "maybe I will trade if the price is right, otherwise I'll just sell it privately?"

    And so you are saying, in your opinion, that there is NO WAY to effectively compare dealer quotes while also including a trade, save for visiting multiple dealers? So what do you do....tell them that you have 4 dealers all within spitting distance of each other on the new car, and you need to see which person will pay the most for the trade, and then take your trade on a beauty parade to 4 dealers so each can look at it? Obviously this strategy could pay benefits if you are actually walking out of dealer 1 telling him that you're gonna go to another dealer to seek a better price for the trade....he might say "OK HOW MUCH DO YOU WANT???" as he knows he might never see you again.

    But the above strategy is harder when a dealer is 70 miles away.....
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalMember Posts: 699
    Isell is correct - the point he is trying to make with you is why conceal the fact you have a trade in? In most cases, it won't get you a better price and it will complicate the transaction and lengthen your buying process. Get your car appraised by Carmax or a few BMW dealers and you'll get a good feel for what it is worth. A vehicle purchase with a trade involved is actually two transactions. You are buying his and he is buying yours. It is human nature that we think our little beauty is worth more than we are offered.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    What I meant was, don't do the deal, come to an agreement and then coyly spring your trade after the deal is done. Doing that won't make your trade worth anymore and it'll cause a lot more paperwork.

    Having owned three BMW's, I have to say that the value on these can vary WIDELY. Dealers are sometimes afraid of them because they know how quirky and expensive they can be to fix.

    Some stores will wholesale every European car they take in for that reason.

    I know our store kept nice BMWS but usually got rid of Land Rovers, Audis, most Volkswagens and Volvos after much painful experience.

    Assuming yours is nice and not all miled up or a bad color, chances are your store will be happy to have it.

    Tell them, that if their offer makes sense to you you'll trade it in but you'll be happy to sell it yourself too. That way they will know it's not a dealbreaker.

    If they make you a very low offer, it means they really don't want it.
  • squashpilesquashpile Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2013
    My offers so far.. this first one looking pretty good. I think that is around $300 under invoice. I'm going to work with this one.

    2014 EX-L

    $26,300
    $499 doc
    $937 tax
    $16.50 title
    $27,753

    $27,700
    $149.50 doc
    $974.73 tax
    $16.50 title
    $28,840
  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    edited October 2013
    Buying a new vehicle and trading in your vehicle is hard to do and simply a big headache. Especially in your case with limited dealerships in striking distance. You dont have much to work with. You have no leverage on price. Driven 70 miles to have that dealer give you a bad trade price is also wasteful.

    I will tell you from experience what i do that i find works the best. Many will agree with me on this some wont.. As long as the end result is the same does it really matter which coarse of action you take?? When i buy new and trade in i work my best deal on new car price first. After i have my list and some good prices from my targeted dealerships i recall each dealership and let them know i have reconsidered and want to trade my car in as part of the deal.

    If your lucky a dealership will give you close to kbb price or near fair trade. otherwise they will open there car book and give you pricing from Galves or Nada. This is why i go for lowest car price first expecting the low ball offer. Dealers that dont want your vehicle will give you a real [non-permissible content removed] price.

    You dont want to deal with the nonsense of selling so figure your about 1k to 2k in the hole on the trade.

    Here is how it works

    Great price on new vehicle= bad trade in value
    Ok new car price .............= little better on trade value

    Choose your poison

    Take your 2 or 3 closest dealerships drive over there on Oct,30th and negotiate and make your best deal.

    All you guys who are thinking of trading in your cars remember this.... Dealers check................ if your car was in a accident and your airbags deployed it is on record with Carfax.. No dealer is going to give you close to a fair trade.

    I have heard of people claiming dealers telling them there vehicles are worth 18,000 but with airbag deployment and body damages in excess of 5 grand listed from prior accidents thru carmax there trade in is worth 4 to 5 thousand less with dealer trade in's.. Even thou car was repaired and fixed.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    Joe i know you dont feel bad........... you made a great deal. Just proven my point on your great sale price to forum members.

    Post your area and dealership where you bought.

    Have fun with your Accord

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • joelv88joelv88 Member Posts: 7
    Yeap! thanks Brian.

    Bought in Houston, TX. Big Star Honda (Formerly David McDavid Honda). Small dealer but have good efficient people running the place.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Thanks but my examples of dealers 75 miles away was purely hypothetical. But basically you do what isellhondas said not to do.... Introduce the trade later in the process.
  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    edited October 2013
    If thats the case and you want to save your time. Get your 4 or 5 lowest prices then do as i posted.

    I dont see the point of bringing in a trade before securing your lowest price on the new car. Your trade will be a loss. All dealerships that use Nada and Galves pricing are terrible prices. Secure the hard part first. Then work on trade in prices. You will need to go to every dealership anyway so they could look at vehicle. Why not visit the first 4 best dealerships closest in price. making the best deal out of those four.

    Anyone who has went to a dealership trying to get a good price out of the salesman and have that dealership appraise your car will tell you the hours spent for this transaction. Thats why I'm telling you secure your best prices by phone / email with internet manager and then visit dealerships. My way is quicker and less stressful.

    As this peanut gallery preaches....... If it makes sense and is a fair deal you will know. What i mean by that is......... your trade in

    Post your buying experience and how you proceed to go about your Buy/trade in

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • capegirl5capegirl5 Member Posts: 35
    Pulled the trigger today...I still can't believe I did it by myself!! I have learned invaluable knowledge here. Thank you to everyone that I have learned from and through the last several months! :0)

    Purchase Price: $27,900
    Doc fee. $99
    Flex cash $500
    With 3.19%
    OTD price $27,499

    The sales manager completely low-balled the trade-in value on my previous car. I knew my purchase price ($700 under invoice) with the flex cash was a good enough deal for me. We will sell the car out-right and pay off the new car quickly. Overall, I am pleased with the deal I made. It was a fair deal. I tried to negotiate a discount on a few accessories, but the sales manager would not budge and I was not going to fight over $200 in accessories. Hopefully, I can order after-market. If I were the dealership, I would gladly give 25% discount on a few extras to make a customer happy...instead they got zero dollars...
    What Brian says about shopping your trade-in value in your local area is good advice. I had researched online but had I had a closer estimate of how low the quote would be, I may have fought harder on purchase price to squeeze out another $200 out of them. I am glad it's over! I am off to celebrate with wine while my car is safely parked in the garage!
  • plagwateplagwate Member Posts: 24
    Congrats. You did well on your purchase price and I'm glad you were able to pull your trade out of the equation without repercussions. What area are you in/ where did you buy?
  • squashpilesquashpile Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2013
    I just got home with the new 2014 EX-L. Didn't get the color I initially wanted, but it all worked out. Dealer pulled bait and switch in color with a '13 and said they thought they had the '14. No big deal.

    $25,871
    OTD: $27,650

    Wife is happy.. I'm happy.

    Thanks for all the great info and help guys.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalMember Posts: 699
    Great job Capegirl! Congrats and enjoy your new Accord - and kudos on selling the trade yourself - you'll reap a few extra bucks on that too.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalMember Posts: 699
    Squash - just like Capegirl, you did great!

    Congrats and enjoy the new Accord!

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAMember Posts: 980
    Congratulations on your purchase.

    Too bad you did not get the color you wanted. I hate it when dealers pull a bait and switch, but glad it all worked out for you.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Excellent, excellent info. Thanks. Basically it feels to me like $27.5 should be a good target number for the V6 and 25.5 for the EX-L.

    Indeed I think Brian and I are saying the same thing re: trade in. Negotiate the new car price FIRST, but perhaps given isellhonda's comments, don't HIDE the trade possibility. Just say that I am most interested in agreeing the price of the new car, and I'm likely to sell old one privately but once I agree the new car price I'd be happy to show them the trade to get a quote.

    Then, I can work the lowest couple dealers with a "roadshow" on my trade in and take the overall best package. Or, if none of them get close enough on the trade, just sell myself.

    I'd think even in the dealer's mind the trade and the new car are somewhat separate items (isellhonda can confirm). By that I mean, a dealer likely won't sell the new car WAYYY below invoice in a situation where they are raping the customer on the trade. But maybe the threat of taking your new-car business to the next stop because they haven't quite gotten to your number on the trade will keep them sharper on that piece of it.
  • jjvicks60jjvicks60 Member Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    I have learned so much from these buying forums over the many years.

    brian125 is a big part helping us out get a good deal. His voice thru these forums leads by example and not just words.

    Thanks again for your help with my son's new purchase i see your still very active in this forum. i wish some day i could repay the favor.

    Sorry lost your email.

    joann
  • capegirl5capegirl5 Member Posts: 35
    Thank you! I am in the Midwest....specifically, Oklahoma! Day 2 and I am loving this car! The sun roof that opens is fun when weather here is in 70s! Now, I must read the manual so I don't wreck the car trying to figure out the controls!
  • capegirl5capegirl5 Member Posts: 35
    Exactly, Hogan! Why would you tell them you have a trade in...think poker game...we sold my old car today for $700 more than the dealership's highest offer yesterday! We parked the car outside our business...two people test drove it and two hours later...we had cash in our hand. Don't be afraid to sell it on your own.

    I guess you could go to (high price) dealer # 1 and dealer #2 to test what your trade-in value would be...then go to low price dealer #3 & #4 and let them know you have a trade in before hand and then try to get best price on car??? In my case, I only had 2 dealerships to chose from unless I wanted to drive the said 100 miles ...
  • zax_attaxzax_attax Member Posts: 1
    Just wondering if anybody could give me a little help figuring out if this seems like a fair price. They told me they could do 27,060 on the sales price of the car. I'm going to lease it and for 36 months they said this price came up to $440 a month with $1000 down. From what I've seen this seems a little high for their bottom line. Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Well I think the point is perhaps the trade and the new car price aren't as linked as we'd like to believe. I mean MAYBE if you overpay for the new car (cause you haven't done your homework) and then act all tough about the trade in, they can slide an extra $250 in on the trade since you're overpaying by $1500 on the car.

    But my gut is you can't get an OVERPAY on the trade in just because you are willing to be a tad more flexible on the new price. So therefore the new price is what it is, and therefore the trade in price becomes somewhat independent. Probably depends a lot on whether they want to try to sell your car on the used lot, or whether it is destined for an auction.

    In my case, I have a very low mileage BMW in good condition, so my guess is I can tell a story (a true story by the way) to prospective buyers showing not only low miles but also recent maintenance, and likely get a decent price. But if dealer gets close enough I'll hit it.

    As to your post capegirl - I think I'll just be honest and tell the dealer that I expect that selling it myself will get the best price, but I'm willing to listen to his offer if he wants to buy the car. Luckily in Chicago I have lots of dealers to get my auction going...
  • biggus1biggus1 Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2013
    Brian, you mentioned a few days ago that, "2000 below invoice on the 2013 is a good starting point. work back up to invoice price making your best deal.. Any deal that goes below 1500 off the invoice price do not make."

    Do you think that applies to the V6 Accord Coupes as well? Looking at the individual sales data, I'm not seeing *any* selling for that low. In fact, $1000 off invoice seems like it's a solid deal, with $1500 off invoice being an absolute best case scenario...but I'd love to know if you think I'm off-base here. Thanks!
  • biggus1biggus1 Member Posts: 7
    (Just to clarify and avoid confusion in case it matters: I'm eyeing the V6 models without navigation. Thanks again!)
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAMember Posts: 980
    Just to add to Brian's point, pricing varies by geographical region, supply and demand, dealer's inventory and the number of dealerships in your area.

    If you feel $1000 below invoice is the best you can do on a 2013 V6 coupe, then maybe you should start looking at 2014 models.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • karhill1karhill1 Member Posts: 164
    You should check in at the sales front forum. The sales fella that wants everyone to know he sells Hondas does not think much of your advice. Personally, I think your advice is quite good. Truth is for most vehicles a selling price below invoice is most certainly attainable with a bit of effort. Especially for Hondas.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAMember Posts: 980
    If you plan to finance your car through Honda, do not forget to ask dealerships whether they offer flex cash. It is an additional $500 discount applied towards the down payment of your car. Hence, if say the sale price of a car is $1500 below invoice, always ask whether that price includes any incentives such as Flex cash, etc...

    DO NOT let dealerships scam you out of Flex cash, if they have it.

    Good luck.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    post your message in the accord leasing forum. thats where you will get help.
    you need to post more info
    selling price of vehicle
    residual
    money factor............ etc

    this will help break down your deal

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Member Posts: 5,243
    edited October 2013
    biggus

    I think blue answered your questions. what i will add to his posts are:

    If you could get invoice price on a 2014 model and only get 1000 below on a 2013 coupe model buy the 2014 model. Get pricing for both models.

    Be firm on 1500 below invoice for the 2013 coupe. I understand its a supply and demand model but it is also 11 months into 2013. If your 2013 gets stolen or totaled in a accident next year is where you stand to lose the most money. As of jan,1st 2014 your 2013 model is considered 1 year old vehicle. Your INS. deductible 500/1000 comes off the top of that check they send you................... take this into consideration.

    There is no right or wrong way to go just common sense and judgment

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

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