I see from another post you dislike the sound from the AC - this can simply be explained as a result of a need to make the vehicle lighter and less expensive. The sound may be there, it is true. The suspension - perhaps softer shocks might help you, have you tried that possibly? Good luck. The company does want customers, I am sure of that. Not a GM employee, but any company does try i am sure. Did you notice any of this during the test drive, or is this all a new thing?
I have a persistent problem that maybe someone can help me with (local dealer was not able to troubleshoot). I have had problems with voltage variation on my Z71. In the morning when the battery is a bit drained from the start - I run at 15-16 volts for 20-30 minutes. After it warms up it will settle down to 14-15. However - I will get a periodic swing up to 19 volts, which brightens the lights and shuts down the air bag circuit (based on the air bag light coming on) and also tends to boil my battery. This will last for 30 seconds or so. Then it will swing back.
I have not been able to tie it to any specific thing (A/C, lights, etc.). The only RELIABLE way to stop it from doing it is to gas the engine hard, that arrests the symptom for the moment, and voltage returns to normal. I have tried checking wires, etc. I am on my third alternator/voltage regulator on advice from shops. During the first two changes, it did not happen for 3 months after the new one was installed, and then it starts again. On this one (a new one NOT a rebuild) it began right away.
Could this be a broken down ground wire? So by revving the engine I am increasing the potential and jumping some small breakage in the wire? Visible inspection does not show any broken wires, etc. Has anyone else seen this - or do you have any good ideas on troubleshooting I could do. I would greatly appreciate any insights. Thanks!! :confuse:
I am thinking about buying a chevy truck and did some GM warranty pricing (over the phone, following some internet research) and if the preliminary info I have gathered is correct, the offer GM sends owners in the mail shortly before the original warranty is set to expire is at least $250.00 more than some dealers are willing to charge. Armed with that info I called a dealer local to me who finally told me that there is a $500.00 markup on the GM warranty. When I made a hypothetical offer of $400.00 under the "list" price he quoted he seemed receptive. The quoted "list" price was $2,750.00; if he is willing to take $2,350.00 then that is only a 15% savings. If the list price he quoted is accurate, that would leave him with a $100.00 profit. I think there should be dealers out there willing to a little better but finding them is time consuming. As an example, there is a Toyota dealership in Northwest Massachusetts that will undercut other dealerships by about 1/3 (on the 7 year / 100,000 mile warranty I priced when I was looking at Tacomas, the "selling" dealer would have charged me approximately $1,500 for a Warranty that the N.W. Mass dealer would have charged me appxly $900 for. I priced a Subaru warranty for a Baja and found one dealer willing to charge me only $1,995 for a warranty the selling dealer wanted $2,460 for. I'd be interested to know if you have done any GM research / pricing since you posted your question on 7/11/05, it might save me some time and aggravation for me. Again, I can't believe that the dealer markup is that much smaller than Toyota or Subaru and / or that there is some dynamic in place that somehow prevents or prohibits dealers from competing against each other on price. This doesn't even begin to address how comparatively expensive GM warranties are since the Subaru warranty, as an example, was for 7 year / 100,000 mile but the GM warranty is only for a 6 year / 80,000 warranty. I'd be interested in feedback from anyone on the accuracy and completeness of the GM warranty info described above. Thanks, ~CathMac
if you have original wires i would start there. mine wouln't start after rain or if there was just a heavy dew. changed the plug wires and problem solved.
The suspension on the truck. The AC cavitations noise which also means the corrosion of the tubing material. Then the "soft brakes”. The jolting problem was mentioned to the dealer before it was purchased. The dealer said it probably was a bad shock or unbalanced tire and it would be fixed under GM warranty. They said they would fix it when the tags came in. The AC noise and the brakes were noticed after the sale. When the Tags came in and the truck was taken to the dealer by my wife, she was told that the jolting was a problem with the crew cab trucks and they had already tried to fix two others and GM said it was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the AC was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the brakes were ok. After filing with the BBB, GM and the dealer said they would try new tires. That helped very little. GM also showed a service bulletin from Dec. of 2004 addressing the jolting. They called it "beaming" "vibration". They said if you put 500 pounds in the bed just behind the wheel well it will reduce the "beaming". So you loose half your payload and (with gas prices) you carry a load around all the time or jolt. When the service manager was asked about the AC noise he said "what’s a little noise, the engine makes noise and that is normal". Peltier Chevrolet knew about the "beaming". GM said it was normal and sorry but your case is closed. I have to agree with an earlier post. GM DOES NOT CARE ABOUT THE CUSTOMER ONCE THEY HAVE YOUR MONEY. I did drive another 2005 truck just like mine (business rental; 600 miles) and it was worse on the jolting, about the same on the AC noise and the brakes were what I would call normal. I would like to remind GM, The Ford Pinto gas tank problem was presented as “NORMAL” until a fireman in Corpus Christy, Texas watched his daughter burn up in one. The GM design is flawed on the suspension and on the AC cavitation noise. The noise means some day the tubing is going to fail and the truck is going to be flooded with a cloud of gas. JUST FIX IT now before someone gets hurt!! :lemon:
Or they could engineer it right. I suspect this noise is from the restriction orifice that causes pressure deviation which facilitates the cooling process. The up line and down line distance to diameter ratio, if not adhered to will cause turbulence in the line.... "cavitation" the cavitation is extra "hammering" on the tubing walls and causes pitting. The pitting is corrosion which leads to leaks and failure. If you have ever been in a car when the cooling line failed you would remember it. A white cloud fills the car and breathing is difficult. That was with freon, I have no idea what this new stuff will do.... if anything. Usually the restriction orifice is at the firewall and what little sound there is outside the cab. I have a 2005 Ascender (made by GM) and it does not have this noise, the 2005 Tahoe does not have this noise. ?
I have a 4x4 2005 WT - the voltage swing is not as wide (so far!), but this is what it did just before it dropped dead on a remote Kentucky parkway - the first dealership replaced the ignition coil and the ignition module; same thing happened again next day and the second dealership replaced the wiring harness to these - said the excess voltage had burned spots in it. (hey, I'm so old, I remember when you changed out EVERYTHING electrical when a starter or solenoid went out...) this was very subtle - the only warnings were "bumps" like a wind "slam" or a bump in the road - a few of those and then no ignition. does anyone know whether those two "drop dead" stops at 65 mph did a number on my manual transmission?? sure was a loud noise. I have had this engine (4.3) and tranny (5 speed) combo twice before with no problems. (truck is 80 days old, has 6500 highway miles on it...) voltage meter remained at 14.5 for several days after repairs and is now swinging again...- Susan
I have a 2005 crew cab 1500 silverado. On occasions, it can happen after the truck sits in my drive way for a day or two without starting or driving for 30 miles and stopping for 30 minutes but what it does is the power goes out. I turn the key and sometimes it sound like the battery is dead. No lights, nothing. I wait a few seconds and the power comes back on, sometimes it starts right away others times it takes longer. Is this a defect? Please help
Voltage is controlled by the alternator voltage regulator. Seems to me that you have a defective regulator inside the alternator. Have them replace the voltage regulator, or the whole alternator assembly ASAP!
It seems that GM has added more insulation to their 2006 trucks becuase they ride noticeably quieter and I have not noticed the A/C gurgling/hissing. One thing that iritates me immnsely is that GM did not make the "redundant radio controls" standard on all Silverado trucks. These are not just radio controls, but also the DIC buttons. Only LT3 package has these buttons standard, or if you buy the Onstar& XM radio package.
This is the msg I got on my msg center. I took the truck in and they said it was the Tranfercase control module. They quoted 566.25 for the part and 170.00 to instal . I said no thanks because it doenst stay on all the time. Any thoughts on this or where I can get a cheaper part. thanks
Water sloshing in GMs is that Dex-Cool engine coolant. It goes "bad" very quick in some cases. Get the cooling system flushed and pray that it hasn't trashed the heater core. Continue to use dex-cool though. switching to the green stuff won't do any better, and there is a SLIGHT chance it may make it worse
try a junkyard. i love those places!! but make sure you get a Haynes manual ( sold at most auto places ) first to show you how to replace it. If you don't mess with labor yourself, try the tricks first: Place the truck in 4Lo, back up 15 ft, In 4HI, forward 15 feet, Then in 2HI. shut off truck, disconnect battery, turn key to ACC, the last one before start, and let it sit for 10 minutes. Hook battery up and see what you're working with. It works about 10% of the time, but it's free.
i have 89000 miles on the original pads on 02 silverado. i just replaced the pads last week and to tell you the truth i didn't have much wear on front pads but rear pads were worn down a little more. Most of life of the truck was driven back and forth from work all interstate and highway miles about 140 miles round trip.
I own a 03 silverado ext cab 2wd I want a more aggresive look without using a lift kit. What's the biggest sized tires I can use on stock rims without major rubbing. And can I level it out adjusting the torsion bar's?
Just to let you know, BBB arbitration is usually a complete waste of time. I went through this process in 1986 with a lemon Volkswagen car. My complaint was very low power and terrible gas mileage. The people form the BBB who test drove the car were so stupid that they did not see anything wrong with having to keep the gas pedal on the floor just to accelerate moderately (standing start). it was obvious that there was something wrong with the fuel injection fuel distributor and the fair/fuel mixture was way off.
They ruled against me and said that there was nothing wrong with the car. this despite two certified Audi mechanics claiming that there was serious problem with the car.
i own a 2003 silverado extended cab that has a "lean" on the drivers side. about 1/2 inch on the front and about 1-1/2 inch on rear leaning on drivers side. does anybody have any information about problems like this ?
I had the same problem with my '02 1500HD 2WD when new. Dealer adjusted the left torsion bar, fixed it. Don't know if the 1500 2WD has the torsion bar or not. Worth a check.
Hey guys - about a week ago I posted about considering getting a new car, between a new 06 si, or a impreza wrx.
I would be trading a 2000 Silverado Sport Truck - been offered $8900 trade in: WITH THE FOLLOWING MODS
2000 Chevrolet Silverado Stepside 4.8 Liter 5 Speed Manual --------------------------------------------------- This truck has 120,000 miles (I bought it at 24000)
K&N Cold Air induction system with a Granatelli MAF SENSOR GIBSON HEADERS with a cat-back flowmaster exhaust system. (THIS TRUCK SOUNDS AMAZING, TRUST ME, WHEN YOU HEAR IT YOU KNOW IT MEANS BUSINESS) EATON POSI-TRACTION REAR END (LOCKS COMPLETELY UNDER 20 MILER PER HOUR) 20 inch very elegant wheels (NOT GHETTO) BRAND NEW COOPER DISCOVERY HP 275/45/20 Tires (VERY PRICEY) BELLTECH 2/4 Drop kit (Spindle kit which doesn't change ride quality at all) Gas-adjust shocks in case you need to haul something in the bed Black Rollup "Lite-rider" Tonneau Cover (VERY NICE, EASY TO ROLL UP AND DOWN, NICE FRAME NO SNAPS)
CHROME BILLET GRILL
-------------------------------------------------------- While yes, it is beginning to show signs of aging - squeaks, rattles, whines - IT RUNS GREAT - and it is paid for. I pay $1200 a year FULL COVERAGE STATE FARM. I am 23 years old.
My question is this - I have about 12K Cash saved - and my truck trade in offer today was $8940.
I'm looking at an 06 black SI NO NAV - for right at MSRP (19990) plus tax = $22k
OR
a 2004 WRX Impreza with 7800 miles for $20000 + TAX = 22500.
Is it being immature, and stupid to trade my nice custom, good running truck in now on a new (almost new) car, or should I invest a little money ($2k) and get my truck squeekless, smooth, and drive it for another few years until I can save more money to get an even nicer car?? OR should I just say goodbye to my reliable old beauty and get a new one??
I'm plannin on going to law school in 9 months. So thats a factor.
I have 2005 Siverado Crewcab and it has a loud static noise coming from the passenger side speakers. It is a steady noise and does not stop when when the radio and/or the truck is turned off. After several minutes with the truck off it will stop but after starting and driving a few minutes it starts back. Has anyone had this problem or hear of it. It's got a little over 36k so the warranty is up on it.
I've already posted my take on your situation. But having said that I'm more or less in the same boat now. I'm seriously contemplating trading out of my 2004 Silverado Z-71 EC SB 4x4 5.3l V8 w/Rhino Lining spray-in, Fold-a-Cover bed cover, full-length stainless steps, bug shield, in-channel window visors, updated overhead console w/HomeLink, updated rear dome light (w/courtousy lights, similar to out of a Crew Cab or Avalanche), and just over 21k miles. I'm upside down on the truck, but have the ability to more than cover that amount from out-of-pocket ($10k+) soon, thanks to my job.
I was originally thinking of investing in a new Alpine double din DVD headunit, rear headrest displays, backup cam, Katkinz leather seat covers w/heaters, and several other goodies. All of these things would've cost me roughly $8 - $9k, said and done. But now Chevy's shown the new Avalanche, and the LTZ pretty much fits the bill of my dream truck, with ALL the stuff I wanted on a truck, and better suited to my use of a truck in general (75% family hauler, towing roughly once a year, hauling stuff several times a year, hauling things like plywood, etc. maybe twice a year) than my EC is. Problem is, I expect sticker on the vehicle I want to be around $45k.
Financially, I'm probably best sticking with the Silvy. But my heart (maybe greed? ) says go with the Avalanche, and I'm seriously looking into it.
So only you can say if it's going to be worth it to you. You have to balance your wants with your needs and capabilities. I know the feeling of being dissatisfied with what you have, and also know that it can be worth it to quench that feeling..
You said you have posted your take on this situation but I haven't seen it. I disconnected my radio today because I can take the noise any longer!! It's loud and continuous and I can't take it!! What's your take?
I must have clicked the reply button on your post instead of the one on dowright82's post (#180). I don't have any input on your speaker problem. Sorry.
You may want to consider a crew cab Silverado Z71. It is really even more practical than the Avalanche because it has four real doors and a lot of rear seat space. And the bed is more useful than that on the Avalanche. I believe that the Avalanche has smoother riding softer suspension, which may be a plus for some. However, two things bother me about the 2007 Avalanche: displacement on demand 5.3 l engine, and "made in Mexico".
I really don't pay much attention to where they're made at now. My father's two-tone ECSB (otherwise identically equipped to mine) was built in Mexico, while mine was from Canada. So neither is truly any better than the Avalanche, and GM is making strides in quality at all of their plants.
I've also been looking forward to the DoD engines. Same performance as my current 5.3 (better, actually, based on hp / torque) but more fuel efficient. Probably 80% of my current truck's time has been spent cruising the interstate without a load. Since a lot of that time would have been in 4 cylinder mode I'm sure I'd see even better mileage than the 21+ best I logged in my truck back in October (manually calculated). I know that some people are concerned about reliability and durability for these new engines but that's what warranties are for.
I also feel that comparing the Avalanche to the crew cab truck favors the Av at least for our use. The truck's bed is 5'8" in length, which isn't far off the Av's. But the Avalanche comes with lockable storage boxes and included hard cover. Then there's the ability to extend the enclosed space for longer loads, such as plywood, lumber, etc. through the use of the midgate. The closest the crew can come to that is the use of a bed extender and those loads will be left exposed to the weather. All this is with a shorter overall wheelbase for easier maneuvering around parking lots and better fit in garages. I have maybe 12" extra space in my garage with the ECSB Silverado. But to each his own. If I didn't have children I'm sure I'd go with another Silverado, because of the option of a longer box with a camper shell.
For someone looking to have a greater mix of truck-type use to family-type use, a truck is probably a better fit. But I wouldn't be looking at the crew cab then, at least not the 1/2 ton trucks. Probably more like a 3/4 ton with at least a 6.5' box.
I have a 2004 siverado 1500 ext cab with a stock cd/cassette player. The cd is stuck and will not come out. It still plays all tracks, and has all other functions, but it will not eject. Please help! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thx, Kevin
It is difficult to determine what you have unless you remove the alternator. It may have a sticker on it with the amp rating. The best solution is to take your old belt in to match it up with the new belt. The reason why they ask about your alternator size is that the 130 amp model has probably a different size pulley on it. So the belt will be slightly larger or smaller.
I was wondering if any one has had experience w/ a superchip hand held programmer. I own a 04' chevy silverado k1500 z71 v-8 5300 vortec and am thinking about buying one but would like some feedback if any body has used this product or similiar. Also any suggestion on setting as in the summer time I haul a 5k trailer, something to improve mileage or horsepower or any of the settings on the programmer.
I have an 03 Silverado 1500 HD 4x4 (short bed, crew cab) That I bought new. Question: Near where I live the is a 10 mile stretch of freeway that appears fairly smooth, but my truck starts bouncing very hard (feels like the rear wheels leave the road) and will not stop until I'm passed that area. I've driven that stretch for over 20 years in many other trucks and cars and never had that problem until I got the 03HD. I've talked with 3 other owners of the 1500 HD and they all have the same problem on that same strip of freeway. any ideas of how to stop or lessen some of the bounce? (without putting on a camper or bags is sand in the bed)Thanks,
i have a 2000 silverado z71 1500 4wd long bed extended cab.it has 98000 mile on it :confuse: i took off and it jerked and popped real loud, and it started making a grinding noise like metal dragging across pavement. i can put it in gear and put in 4wd drive high or 4wd low it does not make the noise and it can drive it around in my yard. but if i put in 4wd auto or 2 wd it makes the noise and it won't move. someone told me it is the transmission but my drive shaft turns when it is in gear, and the transmission changed gears perfect before this. i took the plate off the rear end and there was some metal in the bottom but i didn't see any broken or messed up gears. can anyone tell me whats wrong and if any one else has had this problem
Hi Im Kent- I own a '91 Silverado, 1/2 ton, 5.7 ltr.(350) I want to rebuild the engine. I'm also planning to replace the rear-end gears to be quicker off the line. Here's my question, What order should I do the rebuild? Should I do the rear-end before I replace the cam because it affects the rpms? Im also replacing the intake manifold and ignition. I need tips! email me at kent@isp.com
Try this. Go to Walmart and buy fifteen (15) 40 lb plastic bag of top soil (about $1/bag). Evenly spread the bags in the bed of your truck. Your ride should improve considerably. The empty truck bounces because the rear springs are very stiff and that road section probably has small ripples in the surface.
If this helps, leave the bags in the bed. You can use some of them aslo to secure long cargo - pipes, long boards by placing them on top.
I own a 2002 Silverado 1500 LS, 5.3 V8 with 45,000 miles and have noticed the following problems within the last couple of months. I was hoping that someone familiar with these issues or have had the same problems might be able to assist. They are: 1. Low Coolant light comes on. When checking the reservoir, it only appears to be down about 1/2". I purchased a gallon of the pre-mixed Dex Cool to use to top off, but still can't figure out if there is a leak, or if it's something worse. 2. Low Washer Fluid. I believe I might have a leak in one of the seams of the white plastic bottle. When I got underneath the truck, the bottom of the bottle was wet, but I couldn't pinpoint a leak. 3. Gear Indicator. When the truck is warmed up (usually after I have been driving it for about 1/2 hour), and I shift from drive to reverse, the gear indicator on the dash will sometimes remain in drive, then move to reverse. When I shift to Park, the gear indicator will either show the vehicle as being in "R", or sometimes moves back to "Drive". Although the vehicle is actually in Park, the gear indicator is showing as being in another gear but will not allow the doors to unlock automatically as it's supposed to do when it is put in Park. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
i have a 2002 silve 1500 that had a ratteling over the steering when it was new. later i found that the rattling was in the steering. the dealer replaced the steering colum and the noise continued.i have 45k miles now and the steering feels like it is coming apart. i will continue to drive it until it break and we will be able to find the problem.
i am having the same problem with my 2002 silverado ext cab 1500 Z71. i have 46k miles. the problem started at about 15k. the noise seems to be getting worse but it is still working.
I'm Looking at getting new tires for my 2003 1500HD and was looking at the BF goodrich 285 All Terrains, I want my truck to sit up a little higher than it does now, I still have factory tires on it. But I'm not looking to put any type of lift kit on. Hoping bigger tires and jacking up the tortion bars will help some. Any feedback is great!!
My guess would be no. not without a lift kit. I have BFG 265/75/16 on my 1500 HD and I had to cut out a small section of the air dam Left side, because the L/F tire would rub while I was backing up and turning right, so If a 265 rubs, you could bet that a 285 would rub a lot.
I own a 1997 5.7 silverado 1500. I need exhuast help. I want to replace my flowmaster 70 series. I want my truck to be LOUD and aggressive, but i want it to sound smooth (and of course, good horsepower and torque increase). Any Suggestions?
I got a z71 1500 and Im thinking to do the 6inch suspension w/ a 3 inch body...but Ive been advised not to go with a body lift...I did a 6inch suspension with my old truck and worked out beatifully, not a single problem. but now I wanna go 9 inches without damaging my truck. what are the pros/cons. Maybe I can possibly just go with a 9inch suspension. I'm really not to sure how I can do this and have a suspension ride...If I insert the body lift, will it stiffin the ride up alot? thanks
Comments
I have not been able to tie it to any specific thing (A/C, lights, etc.). The only RELIABLE way to stop it from doing it is to gas the engine hard, that arrests the symptom for the moment, and voltage returns to normal. I have tried checking wires, etc. I am on my third alternator/voltage regulator on advice from shops. During the first two changes, it did not happen for 3 months after the new one was installed, and then it starts again. On this one (a new one NOT a rebuild) it began right away.
Could this be a broken down ground wire? So by revving the engine I am increasing the potential and jumping some small breakage in the wire? Visible inspection does not show any broken wires, etc. Has anyone else seen this - or do you have any good ideas on troubleshooting I could do. I would greatly appreciate any insights. Thanks!!
:confuse:
Thanks, ~CathMac
The jolting problem was mentioned to the dealer before it was purchased. The dealer said it probably was a bad shock or unbalanced tire and it would be fixed under GM warranty. They said they would fix it when the tags came in. The AC noise and the brakes were noticed after the sale. When the Tags came in and the truck was taken to the dealer by my wife, she was told that the jolting was a problem with the crew cab trucks and they had already tried to fix two others and GM said it was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the AC was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the brakes were ok. After filing with the BBB, GM and the dealer said they would try new tires. That helped very little. GM also showed a service bulletin from Dec. of 2004 addressing the jolting. They called it "beaming" "vibration". They said if you put 500 pounds in the bed just behind the wheel well it will reduce the "beaming". So you loose half your payload and (with gas prices) you carry a load around all the time or jolt. When the service manager was asked about the AC noise he said "what’s a little noise, the engine makes noise and that is normal". Peltier Chevrolet knew about the "beaming". GM said it was normal and sorry but your case is closed. I have to agree with an earlier post. GM DOES NOT CARE ABOUT THE CUSTOMER ONCE THEY HAVE YOUR MONEY.
I did drive another 2005 truck just like mine (business rental; 600 miles) and it was worse on the jolting, about the same on the AC noise and the brakes were what I would call normal. I would like to remind GM, The Ford Pinto gas tank problem was presented as “NORMAL” until a fireman in Corpus Christy, Texas watched his daughter burn up in one. The GM design is flawed on the suspension and on the AC cavitation noise. The noise means some day the tubing is going to fail and the truck is going to be flooded with a cloud of gas. JUST FIX IT now before someone gets hurt!! :lemon:
I have a 2005 Ascender (made by GM) and it does not have this noise, the 2005 Tahoe does not have this noise. ?
They quoted 566.25 for the part and 170.00 to instal .
I said no thanks because it doenst stay on all the time.
Any thoughts on this or where I can get a cheaper part.
thanks
it is an automatic
They ruled against me and said that there was nothing wrong with the car. this despite two certified Audi mechanics claiming that there was serious problem with the car.
If it is a 4 wheel drive model, the front end can be adjusted by adjusting the torsion bars.
I would be trading a 2000 Silverado Sport Truck - been offered $8900 trade in: WITH THE FOLLOWING MODS
2000 Chevrolet Silverado Stepside 4.8 Liter 5 Speed Manual
---------------------------------------------------
This truck has 120,000 miles (I bought it at 24000)
K&N Cold Air induction system with a Granatelli MAF SENSOR
GIBSON HEADERS with a cat-back flowmaster exhaust system.
(THIS TRUCK SOUNDS AMAZING, TRUST ME, WHEN YOU HEAR IT YOU KNOW IT MEANS BUSINESS)
EATON POSI-TRACTION REAR END (LOCKS COMPLETELY UNDER 20 MILER PER HOUR)
20 inch very elegant wheels (NOT GHETTO)
BRAND NEW COOPER DISCOVERY HP 275/45/20 Tires (VERY PRICEY)
BELLTECH 2/4 Drop kit (Spindle kit which doesn't change ride quality at all)
Gas-adjust shocks in case you need to haul something in the bed
Black Rollup "Lite-rider" Tonneau Cover (VERY NICE, EASY TO ROLL UP AND DOWN, NICE FRAME NO SNAPS)
CHROME BILLET GRILL
--------------------------------------------------------
While yes, it is beginning to show signs of aging - squeaks, rattles, whines - IT RUNS GREAT - and it is paid for. I pay $1200 a year FULL COVERAGE STATE FARM. I am 23 years old.
My question is this - I have about 12K Cash saved - and my truck trade in offer today was $8940.
I'm looking at an 06 black SI NO NAV - for right at MSRP (19990) plus tax = $22k
OR
a 2004 WRX Impreza with 7800 miles for $20000 + TAX = 22500.
Is it being immature, and stupid to trade my nice custom, good running truck in now on a new (almost new) car, or should I invest a little money ($2k) and get my truck squeekless, smooth, and drive it for another few years until I can save more money to get an even nicer car?? OR should I just say goodbye to my reliable old beauty and get a new one??
I'm plannin on going to law school in 9 months. So thats a factor.
Picture of my truck HERE
I NEED SUGGESTIONS AND PRO/CONS
insurance on both the new cars would SKYROCKET to $2200 a year.
HELP ME!!! LOSING MY MIND THINKING ABOUT MY DECISION
I was originally thinking of investing in a new Alpine double din DVD headunit, rear headrest displays, backup cam, Katkinz leather seat covers w/heaters, and several other goodies. All of these things would've cost me roughly $8 - $9k, said and done. But now Chevy's shown the new Avalanche, and the LTZ pretty much fits the bill of my dream truck, with ALL the stuff I wanted on a truck, and better suited to my use of a truck in general (75% family hauler, towing roughly once a year, hauling stuff several times a year, hauling things like plywood, etc. maybe twice a year) than my EC is. Problem is, I expect sticker on the vehicle I want to be around $45k.
Financially, I'm probably best sticking with the Silvy. But my heart (maybe greed?
So only you can say if it's going to be worth it to you. You have to balance your wants with your needs and capabilities. I know the feeling of being dissatisfied with what you have, and also know that it can be worth it to quench that feeling..
Good luck.
I must have clicked the reply button on your post instead of the one on dowright82's post (#180). I don't have any input on your speaker problem. Sorry.
I've also been looking forward to the DoD engines. Same performance as my current 5.3 (better, actually, based on hp / torque) but more fuel efficient. Probably 80% of my current truck's time has been spent cruising the interstate without a load. Since a lot of that time would have been in 4 cylinder mode I'm sure I'd see even better mileage than the 21+ best I logged in my truck back in October (manually calculated). I know that some people are concerned about reliability and durability for these new engines but that's what warranties are for.
I also feel that comparing the Avalanche to the crew cab truck favors the Av at least for our use. The truck's bed is 5'8" in length, which isn't far off the Av's. But the Avalanche comes with lockable storage boxes and included hard cover. Then there's the ability to extend the enclosed space for longer loads, such as plywood, lumber, etc. through the use of the midgate. The closest the crew can come to that is the use of a bed extender and those loads will be left exposed to the weather. All this is with a shorter overall wheelbase for easier maneuvering around parking lots and better fit in garages. I have maybe 12" extra space in my garage with the ECSB Silverado.
But to each his own. If I didn't have children I'm sure I'd go with another Silverado, because of the option of a longer box with a camper shell.
For someone looking to have a greater mix of truck-type use to family-type use, a truck is probably a better fit. But I wouldn't be looking at the crew cab then, at least not the 1/2 ton trucks. Probably more like a 3/4 ton with at least a 6.5' box.
Thx,
Kevin
I want to rebuild the engine. I'm also planning to replace the rear-end gears to be quicker off the line. Here's my question, What order should I do the rebuild? Should I do the rear-end before I replace the cam because it affects the rpms? Im also replacing the intake manifold and ignition. I need tips! email me at kent@isp.com
If this helps, leave the bags in the bed. You can use some of them aslo to secure long cargo - pipes, long boards by placing them on top.
1. Low Coolant light comes on. When checking the reservoir, it only appears to be down about 1/2". I purchased a gallon of the pre-mixed Dex Cool to use to top off, but still can't figure out if there is a leak, or if it's something worse.
2. Low Washer Fluid. I believe I might have a leak in one of the seams of the white plastic bottle. When I got underneath the truck, the bottom of the bottle was wet, but I couldn't pinpoint a leak.
3. Gear Indicator. When the truck is warmed up (usually after I have been driving it for about 1/2 hour), and I shift from drive to reverse, the gear indicator on the dash will sometimes remain in drive, then move to reverse. When I shift to Park, the gear indicator will either show the vehicle as being in "R", or sometimes moves back to "Drive". Although the vehicle is actually in Park, the gear indicator is showing as being in another gear but will not allow the doors to unlock automatically as it's supposed to do when it is put in Park.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!