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Thanks in advance!!!
The below was posted a while ago, if you can find the post it'll have pictures...
Buick Rendezvous (and maybe Pontiac Aztek) Window Regulator Clip Replacement $40 total!!!
After having our driver window stop working 4 months after buying our Rendezvous and the dealer wanting $275 for the whole motor/regulator/clip assembly I decided to look around for a replacement. Car-part.com led me to 3 different salvage yards, all telling me the same thing as the dealer, the clips cannot be purchased separately but they would be glad to sell me the whole setup for $100.
I said ok 3 times....
The first salvage yard called me after i placed the order and said they had broke the clips removing it from the door.
The second salvage yard could not find the door....ya, it disappeared! the whole door!
The third was going to be the charm, after a week I called them and they said they had broke the clips also.
I was content with the door panel off and my 1x4 with a notch holding the window up....but the boss said she didnt want to drive a ghetto vehicle.
Then 3 weeks ago the passenger door clips broke! Talk about a total POS design flaw.
So internet searching led me to the Buick forums where I found the part numbers for the clips.
I ended up spending $80.45 for 4 clips, (2 for each door), shipped to my house
Since my clips were broke in about 12 pieces I had no idea how to replace them....but about an hour later both side were done.
Here are some pictures to help the next person with this project (and probably me again before its paid off)
Part numbers and references at bottom of page
Here is the passenger side regulator removed from the door....I think about 5 10mm bolts held it on.
Here is the small "barrel" that snaps into the clip and moves it up and down the window.
The clip slides on the track first
Then slide the clip over the regulator and lock it in place (you can kind of notice the slot for the barrel)
Once the clip is locked on, line up the barrel and push it in with a screwdriver
The barrel is locked in place
Driver side ready
So your ready to try it yourself? I would say most people with a little brain can do this with no problem.
The clips can be found at gmpartsdirect.com
The left part number is #15286776 and the right is #15286777
Thanks to the guys (and gals) at http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com
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Unless your car was having problems starting, stalling, or not having power, there's no reason to believe you need a fuel pump. You do NOT need a new fuel pump for a P0453 code - it's a vapor system code completely unrelated to the fuel delivery system. I used work in the group that made fuel pumps for Ford and analyzed thousands of warranty claims. A fuel pump repair can be costly. The part itself is not cheap, and the labor to do it requires draining and dropping the fuel tank. $850 is in the ballpark but seems high. I would ask for a breakdown on the repair to see what is involved.
There is an electrical connector (C305) located under the car almost under the drivers seat. This connector has numerous wires, one of which supplies power to the fuel pump. Some owners have had mosture, salt spray, etc get into those connections and cause problems.
A few owners that had stalling, no start, engine shut off as if the key were turned off, etc traced their problems to the connector C305. Try an internet search for the C305. Perhaps this is what the mechanic is talking about.
I doubt if the AC condensation would be able to travel that far and get into the connection. I think the vent tube is on the passenger side, not the drivers side.
thanks for the help
Car has been great to us, we love it.
One minor thing. I have begun to notice a humming sound and feeling coming through the front of the car, only occurs while in 4th gear, at medium throttle inputs, under light load (like climbing a hill) and only around 50-55mph.
I don't feel any slipping or difficulty keeping speed so I don't think it's internal to the transmission. My guess is a bad engine mount or transmission mount is allowing a specific vibrational frequency to come through the body.
Anyone had this happen?
Thanks.
Brian
Hope this helps...
.
With A/C off, the fans are not supposed to come on unless the engine crosses about 212 degrees F. At that point, only ONE fan is supposed to come on, until somewhere around 235*F.
If you aren't driving in heavy stop and go traffic, or towing, the fans would only come on once in a while.
If turning on the A/C immediately turns on one of the fans, that's a good sign the fans are working.
As far as the oil - the gages (sic) have NO way to know if your oil is "old". If your check engine light came on because your oil was old, it was extremely old, abusively so. I am NOT saying you abused your car - I am saying you do not get a Check Engine light due to old oil.
As far as the car stalling because the oil was LOW, how long had it been since you checked your oil level? You know, with the dipstick? Any car, even a brand new one should be checked periodically, at least monthly.
Whoever told you this car is "hard to diagnose" is either lying or doesn't know what they are doing. Sorry to be so blunt. The engines in the RDV (both 3.4 and 3.5) have been put into millions of cars/trucks/vans since their initial design came out in the late 1980's. The engine has been tuned, adjusted, enlarged, more controllers, etc., but it started its life back in 1988 as a 2.8 V6. The two fans come on in two stages, at two different temperatures. They can be turned on manually by a tech to test them, at any temperature. It's one of the easiest things to troubleshoot.
Does the fan now come on? Does it appear to spin fast? If "yes" and "yes" and the car still sits at 3/4 on the temp gauge, they didn't test the fan correctly, and just threw parts at your car.
Question: if it gets to 3/4 hot and you begin driving at a steady speed, at least 40mph or even take it on the highway, does the temp drop down again? If so, the fans are still part of the problem most likely. If the temp does not drop during steady, higher speed driving, then the cooling system is not working efficiently. Either the radiator needs a cleanout or there might be air in the system. Has any maintenance been done to the car lately? If so perhaps they didn't purge all the air.
Anyways, my A/C has been leaking refrigerant, I got it checked and filled once and it leaked out in
Yes the early years had more problems.
Hope it stays trouble free for a long while!
Brian
Good Luck.
The odometer and transmission gear indicator are always dim, like in night mode. The digital display under the tach is the same brightness at night (dim) but is much brighter during the day, so is easier to read in daylight. I replace the instrument unit thinking it would correct the problem, but no change.
Does anyone know for sure if this is a function of the BCM perhaps, meaning I would have to replace that in order to correct the problem?
Thanks for your help! Nick
Thanks,
Arthur
The temperature gauge on your dash is fed from a different Coolant Temperature Sensor than what the computer uses to know when to turn on the fans, how fast to idle the engine, how rich to run the A/F ratio, and many other important decisions it has to make based on how hot the engine is running.
So its very possible that the sensor for the dash gauge has gotten covered in coolant 'sludge', corroded, or electrical problem with it. It may be showing much hotter than your engine is actually running.
You would need a scan tool to see what temperature the computer is seeing. It should be generally around 190-210 (generalizing here). If the computer shows normal temperature, but your gauge is showing hot, that's your culprit.
If you can find a local small-shop mechanic, he'd probably charge you very little to hook up the scan tool for 5 minutes when you have your RDV nice and hot so he can check engine coolant temp.
So - in summary - the needle should not hang out near the red zone, that's not normal. BUT it may be a problem with incorrect reporting of the temperature rather than an engine that is actually running hot.
Well it should not stay near red zone, but it is common for it to go near there when stuck stopped in traffic on a warm day, then go down to normal when moving at a better pace.
thanks
deb
manual title
No, I do not "work for Buick." In fact, I do not work for any automotive company at all. I'm a corporate attorney. My wife drives a Nissan Murano and -- guess what -- I'm STILL driving my 2002 Buick Rendezvous. 96,000 miles on it as we speak.
I'm sorry your experience with your Buick was not as good as mine. But just because I haven't had as many problems as you -- you presume that I work for Buick?? Come on! I'm trying to give people my honest, truthful experience (MY experience) with my vehicle. I'm not saying that Buicks are problem-free. However, there is NO vehicle on the road today that is problem-free. Every manufacturer makes a few lemons. Mine, fortunately, was not one of them. Sorry if yours was.
We are definitely considering an Enclave in our future.