What is the best filter for me is the issue at hand. If one drives a car for 3 years and dumps it, you should not really care,
If you want to go 100,000 miles and sell it, may not make a diifference either.
Perhaps the only time it will matter what kind of oil and filter you use is if you want to run the car until it dies with at least 150,000-200,000 miles on it. Of course, it appears that most of the posters on this board hold on to cars rather then swap every 3-5 years. For the average driving public the Frams probably suffice.
I love Edmund's web site. You learn so much about cars, oil, & oil filters. But after reading all these postings, I've come to the conclusion that the best oil filter in the world is the one I buy. Lets face it, we all make a value judgement based on price and perceived value for the cars we own. And my choice will never be as good a filter as the one someone else decides is the right one for their car.
You can drive yourself nuts figuring out which are the best filters to use in your car. In the end you just have to go with what you're comfortable with, can afford and fits your life style.
If you want the cheapest, consider store brand oil and filters like Supertech, and change it every 3,000 miles. Or let Jiffy Lube do it. There's a lot to be said for this approach.
If you want a middle of the road approach, buy a name brand oil and regular filter. Follow the manufacturer's service schedule. OEM filters aren't bad either. After all, the car did come off the show room floor this way.
If you want the best, go with blends or synthetics, and better filters like Amsoil, Mobil 1 or PureOne and extend the oil drains somewhat to offset the higher cost. Who knows, maybe this is the right way. These appear to be better engineered products. But the debates can be endless.
And then of course you can mix and match any of the 3 alternatives to come up with dozens more.
YWILSON, I bought my Mobil 1 filters directly from Mobil's web site. Even with shipping, each was a buck cheaper than what I would have paid with sales tax at the local Auto Zone store.
knapp3 is right. You can buy them at AutoZone for $12 or directly from the mobil1 website for $10 plus shipping. I would suggest buying 10 or so at a time so that you can spread the shipping costs over that many filters.
I don't know how much of the U.S. that Murray's Discount Auto Parts covers, but they are a chain here in Michigan. Most or all of the Mobil 1 filters they carry are priced at $10 each.
I was on the website and found them. I guess that I will be ordering them. I have a few Amsoil filters left but fortunately they will be on my wife's truck also as the filters fit both. I decided Mobil1 was going to be my choice from now on.
Found them at a Kmart (NW austin) which is closing its doors (30% discount). I also found that other Kmarts here do not carry them at all. There is no ref book there; better know the number.
I used a K&N filter today for the 1st time. I really, really liked that silly little nut on the end...of all things. It went in Ford Club Wagon that has the filter in a very inaccessible spot. A simple turn of the nut with a wrench and it was done! Can't wait to remove it.
Also upgraded to a syntheic blend for the 1st time in that vehicle. Wow! Much quieter engine. Wish I did it years ago.
I looked at their Ultra guard gold and by the numbers it filters out 8-10 micron particles Ac makes 3 levels of filters the regular the silver and the gold you can tell by the part numbers,my filter is a UPF1127.I've never seen a mobil or amsoil or K&N or any other filter do this for automotive purpases.What do you guys think? Tony
I am cutting up a K&N today that has been in service for 6 months and about 6K miles. I'll post the results.I just drilled a hole in the cannister to help drainage and the wall is super thick. I'll mic it. I am a big fan of heavy walls for filters. Its probably about .020 in, It's a model HP 2001 (equivalent of PF-52)The vehicle it came out of is a 2001 GrandAm which is supposed to have the small (PF-47) filter.
Cut up the K&N HP-2001. # of pleats-60 Not uniform spacing. This may be on purpose. Pleat length 3.5 inches. Pleat depth1/4 inch. that works out to filter area of 105 sq. inches.
The thickness of the can is huge. .022 in. vs less than .010 for the Purolator.Thats a difference of night and day. Anti-drainback appears to be quite good. Leaf spring like most except for Hastings. The thickness alone makes it worthwhile for me.
Does anyone have any information on Pronto "house brand" filters, made by Hastings? At least that's what it says on the box and filter. $1.99 at local ABC Auto Parts chain. It looks good, & I've used a few before, but never cut one apart.
Well made filter. Pleats very even, can thickness is thicker than most (.016 in). Antidrainback valve seems OK, and they use a coil spting at the bottom of the element which I think is very good. All in all a good filter. They advertise high efficiency,, but who knows what that means.
Looked like that particular one (black can) was on clearance for some reason (equivalent of the AC pf52 for Chevy 4.3)...the others (both black and gray cans) were not marked down. Walmart version of the AC pf52 was also made by Champion and looked better than the Kmart version of the same AC pf52...both had same area but the Walmart had more,shallower pleats than the Kmart version. just thought I'd let y'all know incase other stores start dropping them. See y'all Rando
They are undoubtedly well made from a contruction standpoint but, I called them a few months back to ask for some performance data on their automotive filters - they told me they were rated for 40 micron! (can't remember what efficiency)
As far as I am concerned, this is pretty loose and should be called a screen rather than a filter.
At KMarts in my area(NE Texas) the Penske oil filters(w/the exception of 3 or 4 p/n's)are on sale this week for $1.77 each. No, I don't work for KMart! ;^)
That is a good price on a good filter brand. Some who post here will not agree, but I don't speak for them. I hope the disclaimer will stave off their verbal assaults... (:oÞ
Anybody suggesting that a higher efficiency filter will plug sooner would be right if the filters capacity was the same as a regular filter. But AMSOIL and M1 filters have WAY more dirt holding capacity.
There's been a fair amount written about the quality of Wal-Mart oil filters on this thread.
I posted a comparison of specs. of Wal-Mart dino oil on the slippery subject thread. I probably don't know enough about the subject to be anything but dangerous, but to me it looks like Wal-Mart's house brand oil is as good or better than Quaker State or Wolf's Head, but not quite up with Pennzoil. (It's made by Pennzoil-Quaker State but is not identical to any of their three brands).
I also did comparisons with Mobil, Valvoline and Exxon. Mobil looks a bit weak in some areas if I read the specs correctly.
I've been using Super Tech 30wt oil in my small engine implements for over a year, and have seen nothing to complain about. I just removed a Super Tech filter from my wife's 2000 Villager. I have no complaint from the direct experience, other than that particular filter number is a short canister, and I just prefer a longer one, such as the Motorcraft I installed in its place during this oil change. I used 5W-30 Super 76 brand oil.
Does anyone know of a higher volume (size) filter for a Toyota Echo?? I would feel better if I could replace the tiny stock (presently using Purolator PL 14476) filter with a bigger one.
Need advise on oil and filter. Drive a 1992 Honda Accord Ex with 102k miles on it. I have a extremely short commute 1.5 miles one way and nevr really reach the 3000 mile mark. So I normally change oil and filter around 3-4 months. I have gone for Walmart $11.99 Super Tech deal since I feel it is th best value for money. Do you think that it is ok ?
that they substitute the SuperTech filter for the standard crappy Fram. That usually requires signs hung all over my dash or the ninny tech will ignore the note on the service order.
I listed SuperTech oil specs in the slippery subject thread. Better than Quaker State, not quite up to Pennzoil.
In addition to being pretty good oil, using SuperTech bottled oil is better IMHO than the doing the upcharge to QS/PZ and having them put the bulk oil in. In one of these threads was pictures of typical bulk oil tanks. Rust and corrosion around fittings and god knows what sitting around in the bottom of the tank since they also bulk refill. Bottled oil avoids that risk.
I just bought a 67 Gravely and got it running today. After about 15 minutes of running the oil pressure really dropped. Pulled off the oil filter and replaced it with a FRAM PH8A, something I wouldn't put on my car. Opened the old filter and it is loaded with metal particles. I mean it is filled with shimmering sludge. Must have been on for 15 years. Still runs great but got to get the leak on the external oil pump fixed. Some 40 weight and STP and it will be good for another 10 years.
Hey, nobody said he had to ride the bike 365 days a year. And if it's only 1.5 miles I'm sure there are lower-traffic surface streets he could take. Big hills? Hey, that's 10 minutes off your daily treadmill routine. Here I am, trying to save wear and tear on this guy's car, keep emissions down, keep the roadways open, and y'all are trying to put him back in his Accord and off to work like another corporate clone. Whose side are you on?
Hello there filter experts. Hope someone can answer about these Purolator Pure One oil filters. I don't see much written here lately about them, but other sites seem to rate them highly, as far as finer filtration is concerned. Does anyone have experience with these? Thanks in advance.
I have heard good things about Purolator but I have heard even more good things about the Mobil1 high efficiency filter. Since I using the Mobil1 syn. I also had incentive to use the same brand. Mobil1 gaurantees it.
If you REALLY want the low down, you should consider going way back in this thread and reading up to the present. Many conclusions can be drawn about many brands at many levels.
Used them on one car over the past few years as well as K&N. Oil analysis did not indicate any difference in wear or other issues. I feel a great filter, especially for the price. All others are double the price.
I certainly agree with adc100 about the search feature at edmunds. It sucks. I have started writing down the post number on certain threads for references at a later date. Reading through these subject threads will answer in serious detail about 95% of all questions posted.
Over the last several months, we have uncovered some powerful information in this thread. There are newcomers knocking, and they want to start over! I agree that the search facility on the threads is really weak. Over all, though, Edmunds is an outstanding company that has served the motorhead community very well for many decades. They have provided me with the ammunition needed to get some car buying leverage for so long of a time, I can't remember the beginnings at some magazine rack somewhere!
I'd be momentarily satisfied to learn how to put bold type in these postings. Will you share?
Thanks for the info. I'll also read back in the previous messages. Yes, a search feature would be great.
Here's a dumb question. How small are the lubricant "molecules?" that can pass easily through a filter media, that can catch particulate down to say 10 microns? Is there a pressure drop across the media?Would the viscosity of the oil affect this flow through the media? I live in Canada, where the oil in the oil pan can be routinely chilled to -30F. in winter. Would a finer filter just go into bypass until the oil warmed up?
I routinely use a part synthetic 0W-30 oil in winter, or full synthetic 5W-30. This helps cold oil flow somewhat, and the engine cranks easier.
you are a chemist or chemical engineer. I am a chemical engineer and can tell you that oil molecules are more in the nanometer (1/1000 of a micron) range. Some may be as large as .1 micron but that would be a large one. The heavy weights have larger particles in general than the lighter ones.
Suffice it to say, don't worry about the oil going through the filter. There is a filter in the Ultafiltration industry (I used to develop these) that seperates chemicals based on their molecular weight. So, if you don't have an ultrafilter in your car at ~$1000 each, then I wouldn't worry about it. Now, maybe easily is the key word in your post. That will depend on the viscosity.
Yes there can be a pressure drop across the media, depending on the viscosity and temperature of the oil. It is quite possible that your filter will go into bypass on a cold start, but you really have no way of knowing for sure.
We have some machines that have indicator lights in the cab to show when their hyd. filters go into bypass and they do after a cold start when the temp. is low.
If you are really concerned about this, go with an oil that will flow at the temperatures that you are experiencing but do not shy away from good filtration.
Thanks to all for the replys on the Pure One and filters. So much is marketing and hype out there.i.e. salesman at local Napa store says "Don't buy Purolator, they are junk, buy our Napa brand which is made by Wix".
It was noted in the minimopar review that Motorcraft filters are actually Purolators inards. Any experience with this anyone? Thanks.
Believing that the Motorcraft FL-820S has Purolator Pure One innards (i.e. filter media) and since it's a couple bucks cheaper than the Pure One equivalent, I am using the FL-820S in my 95 Ford Contour SE.
I've never cut it apart or analyzed it in any other way. Getting a filter with Pure One innards for 3 bucks seems like a great deal and a smart move for me.
Comments
What is the best filter for me is the issue at hand. If one drives a car for 3 years and dumps it, you should not really care,
If you want to go 100,000 miles and sell it, may not make a diifference either.
Perhaps the only time it will matter what kind of oil and filter you use is if you want to run the car until it dies with at least 150,000-200,000 miles on it. Of course, it appears that most of the posters on this board hold on to cars rather then swap every 3-5 years. For the average driving public the Frams probably suffice.
You can drive yourself nuts figuring out which are the best filters to use in your car. In the end you just have to go with what you're comfortable with, can afford and fits your life style.
If you want the cheapest, consider store brand oil and filters like Supertech, and change it every 3,000 miles. Or let Jiffy Lube do it. There's a lot to be said for this approach.
If you want a middle of the road approach, buy a name brand oil and regular filter. Follow the manufacturer's service schedule. OEM filters aren't bad either. After all, the car did come off the show room floor this way.
If you want the best, go with blends or synthetics, and better filters like Amsoil, Mobil 1 or PureOne and extend the oil drains somewhat to offset the higher cost. Who knows, maybe this is the right way. These appear to be better engineered products. But the debates can be endless.
And then of course you can mix and match any of the 3 alternatives to come up with dozens more.
YWILSON, I bought my Mobil 1 filters directly from Mobil's web site. Even with shipping, each was a buck cheaper than what I would have paid with sales tax at the local Auto Zone store.
Chuck
Also upgraded to a syntheic blend for the 1st time in that vehicle. Wow! Much quieter engine. Wish I did it years ago.
The thickness of the can is huge. .022 in. vs less than .010 for the Purolator.Thats a difference of night and day. Anti-drainback appears to be quite good. Leaf spring like most except for Hastings. The thickness alone makes it worthwhile for me.
Al
Walmart version of the AC pf52 was also made by Champion and looked better than the Kmart version of the same AC pf52...both had same area but the Walmart had more,shallower pleats than the Kmart version.
just thought I'd let y'all know incase other stores start dropping them.
See y'all
Rando
As far as I am concerned, this is pretty loose and should be called a screen rather than a filter.
I posted a comparison of specs. of Wal-Mart dino oil on the slippery subject thread. I probably don't know enough about the subject to be anything but dangerous, but to me it looks like Wal-Mart's house brand oil is as good or better than Quaker State or Wolf's Head, but not quite up with Pennzoil. (It's made by Pennzoil-Quaker State but is not identical to any of their three brands).
I also did comparisons with Mobil, Valvoline and Exxon. Mobil looks a bit weak in some areas if I read the specs correctly.
I listed SuperTech oil specs in the slippery subject thread. Better than Quaker State, not quite up to Pennzoil.
In addition to being pretty good oil, using SuperTech bottled oil is better IMHO than the doing the upcharge to QS/PZ and having them put the bulk oil in. In one of these threads was pictures of typical bulk oil tanks. Rust and corrosion around fittings and god knows what sitting around in the bottom of the tank since they also bulk refill. Bottled oil avoids that risk.
lots of reasons
Does anyone have experience with these?
Thanks in advance.
Its too bad Edmunds doesn't have a decent search that would highlight key words. Edmunds "search" feature is totally useless.
Comments Edmunds??
I'd be momentarily satisfied to learn how to put bold type in these postings. Will you share?
Yes, a search feature would be great.
Here's a dumb question. How small are the lubricant "molecules?" that can pass easily through a filter media, that can catch particulate down to say 10 microns? Is there a pressure drop across the media?Would the viscosity of the oil affect this flow through the media? I live in Canada, where the oil in the oil pan can be routinely chilled to -30F. in winter. Would a finer filter just go into bypass until the oil warmed up?
I routinely use a part synthetic 0W-30 oil in winter, or full synthetic 5W-30. This helps cold oil flow somewhat, and the engine cranks easier.
Thanks.
Suffice it to say, don't worry about the oil going through the filter. There is a filter in the Ultafiltration industry (I used to develop these) that seperates chemicals based on their molecular weight. So, if you don't have an ultrafilter in your car at ~$1000 each, then I wouldn't worry about it. Now, maybe easily is the key word in your post. That will depend on the viscosity.
We have some machines that have indicator lights in the cab to show when their hyd. filters go into bypass and they do after a cold start when the temp. is low.
If you are really concerned about this, go with an oil that will flow at the temperatures that you are experiencing but do not shy away from good filtration.
It was noted in the minimopar review that Motorcraft filters are actually Purolators inards. Any experience with this anyone?
Thanks.
I've never cut it apart or analyzed it in any other way. Getting a filter with Pure One innards for 3 bucks seems like a great deal and a smart move for me.