Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
What is the best filter for me is the issue at hand. If one drives a car for 3 years and dumps it, you should not really care,
If you want to go 100,000 miles and sell it, may not make a diifference either.
Perhaps the only time it will matter what kind of oil and filter you use is if you want to run the car until it dies with at least 150,000-200,000 miles on it. Of course, it appears that most of the posters on this board hold on to cars rather then swap every 3-5 years. For the average driving public the Frams probably suffice.
You can drive yourself nuts figuring out which are the best filters to use in your car. In the end you just have to go with what you're comfortable with, can afford and fits your life style.
If you want the cheapest, consider store brand oil and filters like Supertech, and change it every 3,000 miles. Or let Jiffy Lube do it. There's a lot to be said for this approach.
If you want a middle of the road approach, buy a name brand oil and regular filter. Follow the manufacturer's service schedule. OEM filters aren't bad either. After all, the car did come off the show room floor this way.
If you want the best, go with blends or synthetics, and better filters like Amsoil, Mobil 1 or PureOne and extend the oil drains somewhat to offset the higher cost. Who knows, maybe this is the right way. These appear to be better engineered products. But the debates can be endless.
And then of course you can mix and match any of the 3 alternatives to come up with dozens more.
YWILSON, I bought my Mobil 1 filters directly from Mobil's web site. Even with shipping, each was a buck cheaper than what I would have paid with sales tax at the local Auto Zone store.
Chuck
Also upgraded to a syntheic blend for the 1st time in that vehicle. Wow! Much quieter engine. Wish I did it years ago.
The thickness of the can is huge. .022 in. vs less than .010 for the Purolator.Thats a difference of night and day. Anti-drainback appears to be quite good. Leaf spring like most except for Hastings. The thickness alone makes it worthwhile for me.
Al
Walmart version of the AC pf52 was also made by Champion and looked better than the Kmart version of the same AC pf52...both had same area but the Walmart had more,shallower pleats than the Kmart version.
just thought I'd let y'all know incase other stores start dropping them.
See y'all
Rando
As far as I am concerned, this is pretty loose and should be called a screen rather than a filter.
I posted a comparison of specs. of Wal-Mart dino oil on the slippery subject thread. I probably don't know enough about the subject to be anything but dangerous, but to me it looks like Wal-Mart's house brand oil is as good or better than Quaker State or Wolf's Head, but not quite up with Pennzoil. (It's made by Pennzoil-Quaker State but is not identical to any of their three brands).
I also did comparisons with Mobil, Valvoline and Exxon. Mobil looks a bit weak in some areas if I read the specs correctly.
I listed SuperTech oil specs in the slippery subject thread. Better than Quaker State, not quite up to Pennzoil.
In addition to being pretty good oil, using SuperTech bottled oil is better IMHO than the doing the upcharge to QS/PZ and having them put the bulk oil in. In one of these threads was pictures of typical bulk oil tanks. Rust and corrosion around fittings and god knows what sitting around in the bottom of the tank since they also bulk refill. Bottled oil avoids that risk.
lots of reasons
Does anyone have experience with these?
Thanks in advance.
Its too bad Edmunds doesn't have a decent search that would highlight key words. Edmunds "search" feature is totally useless.
Comments Edmunds??
I'd be momentarily satisfied to learn how to put bold type in these postings. Will you share?
Yes, a search feature would be great.
Here's a dumb question. How small are the lubricant "molecules?" that can pass easily through a filter media, that can catch particulate down to say 10 microns? Is there a pressure drop across the media?Would the viscosity of the oil affect this flow through the media? I live in Canada, where the oil in the oil pan can be routinely chilled to -30F. in winter. Would a finer filter just go into bypass until the oil warmed up?
I routinely use a part synthetic 0W-30 oil in winter, or full synthetic 5W-30. This helps cold oil flow somewhat, and the engine cranks easier.
Thanks.
Suffice it to say, don't worry about the oil going through the filter. There is a filter in the Ultafiltration industry (I used to develop these) that seperates chemicals based on their molecular weight. So, if you don't have an ultrafilter in your car at ~$1000 each, then I wouldn't worry about it. Now, maybe easily is the key word in your post. That will depend on the viscosity.
We have some machines that have indicator lights in the cab to show when their hyd. filters go into bypass and they do after a cold start when the temp. is low.
If you are really concerned about this, go with an oil that will flow at the temperatures that you are experiencing but do not shy away from good filtration.
It was noted in the minimopar review that Motorcraft filters are actually Purolators inards. Any experience with this anyone?
Thanks.
I've never cut it apart or analyzed it in any other way. Getting a filter with Pure One innards for 3 bucks seems like a great deal and a smart move for me.