Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?

adc100

Next time...

1. after removing the old filter wipe off the area at the engine where the rubber seals against. Then take your finger and run it all around to feel for dirt. I know it can be hot.

2. If the filter is mounted vertically, which it probably isn't on the altima. Fill the filter with oil before installing.

3. Make sure your finger is clean and dip it in the new oi and run it around on the rubber gasket to lub it.

4. Make a mark (permanent Marker) on filter so you can tell that you get 3/4 to one turn after contact as was mentioned.

5. Your altima has a copper gasket at the drain plug-I assume. They are supposed to be replaced each time. You need to carefully pry them off with a small screwdriver, working your way around it. Sometimes its a [non-permissible content removed]. Its possible this gasket was used one time to many. They are usually good for several (at least) changes.

6. You really should invest in a "click" torque wrench and torque the plug to about 20 ft lbs. That number works on every plug I use.

7. You can screw off that filter if its leaking. You will lose a little oil plus whats in the filter. Total about a pint or less.

Oh-check filter for leaks by running at fast idle for about 30 seconds and feel around filter. Make sure filter has no oil on it before checking.

shemz

so if i take the filter out with the oil in the car...only a quart of oil would come out???
and thank you all for your advice... I will remember to also fill the oil filter with oil...duh!!??...i cant belive i forgot that part!
After turning 3/4 turn After Contact and marking it, do i use a wrench or my hands???because i read in this Haynes book that Do not use wrench to tighten the oil filter because over tightning causes...etc..
again thank you very much

shemz

where would i find this copper thing on the screw??which place do i go to?
This, changing the copper washer/gasket, is kind of weird b/c everytime i take it to a place to change my oil, they never change that piece...??!
I dont see any leaks...so i guess its ok...dont you think?

adc100

You shouldn't really need a wrench if your hands are dry and filter is not oily. I usually wash hands with soap and use slight bit of detergent to clean outside of filter. Wrench is OK though as long as it doesn't damage filter. 3/4 to 1 turn will be the perfect amount. Don't go much beyond 1 turn. And yea you loose well under a qt. when removing filter.

malachy72

for the next time you do this in addition to all the other fine advice you have gotten here. Wear Surgical type gloves when doing this work. You can find them for about a dime a pair. Saves a lot of cleaning especially under fingernails.

shemz

unfortunatly it doesnt seem that the screw or the filter are loose....could it be a gasket???!! or a loose bolt over the oil filter, under the engine??or what could it be??? does this happen when there is too much presure due to over-filling oil???help
thank you

fleetwoodsimca

I suggest you take the car to your dealer and get an oil and filter change, and do so right now. They can advise you what went wrong after they correct the problem.

adc100

You have agonized over this for too long. Hey-chalk it up to experience-its not a bad thing . You have learned a lot. Next time it'll go better. There is a huge trail of lost dollare behind me, which got me to the small amount of knowledge I now posess.

Later. We're to help any time.

sailorbeavis

Was scanning Wal-Mart yesterday for filters for my Sentra and saw that Fram filters are no longer sold by Allied Signal of Canada, but by Honeywell Consumer Products. The filters look different - most of the Honeywell filters have more holes on the inside of the filter and have metal, not cardboard, end caps.

Seems that Wal-Marts in my area are no longer carrying the low-end Frams; could this be because they're being phased out in favor of the TG, EG, and X2 filter lines?

cardinal5

Honeywell is Allied. Allied bought Honeywell (about 2 yrs. ago) and changed their name to Honeywell.

cardinal5

However, I don't know if they are improving the quality of their product.

zr2rando

Hate to say it but almost ANY change would probably be for the better, they already have the trophy for low quality.
Maybe they started reading stuff on the internet???
We can only hope!!!

sailorbeavis

An interesting way to limit the damage to your reputation. Just change company names!

"Boy, those Fram filters made by Honeywell suck."
"But not as bad as the ones made by Allied!"

According to the boxes for the X2 filters, they can go 7000+ miles on dino oil. I wouldn't trust it. Of course, they're sealed in a canister, and I'm not gonna pay $9.00 to cut one open and find out. I'd rather pay $9 for an OEM Nissan filter :-)

adc100

Just some information. You can use a larger than standard filter in probably all Nissan products for about the last 5 or 6 years (at least). I have the 01 Sentra (2L engine). I use Mobil 1 M1-110, K&N HP 1010, and Pure One PL 14620. They are not recommended by Nissan, but they work for me. For other brands look up the requirement for the 2000 Max. After that they switched to the smaller filter to "standardize".

fleetwoodsimca

The Castrol and Penske filters by Wix for Kmart, that reference to Pathfinders and Villagers (V6 Nissan motor) are the long canister type.

wain

without cutting one open how do you know if they are using a longer element.
some of the filters I cut open have a lot of unused space in them

adc100

I've cut them all open. No unused space

fleetwoodsimca

I trust the Gastonia folks (WIX) and assume they do not make any poor quality filters. I honestly believe that to be true. I have never seen evidence of them producing a low grade filter under any name. Now, as for excess space in a canister, I can't even comment, except to say that IF there was such unused space, that alone is not evidence of poor function or quality.

zr2rando

I've used the Wix (Castrol/Penske) filters for my Chevy trucks, there was BARELY any space between the outside of the cartridge and the can at all. If anything, I almost wished there was MORE space available for the oil..he he
They look fine to me.

fleetwoodsimca

NAPA gets their premium filters, NAPA GOLD, made at the Gastonia WIX plant. That has been going on for many, many years. The secondary SILVER line of filters have some alternate sourcing here and there. I personally put a lot of faith in NAPA being very careful about quality. That's what keeps them in business.

bluedevils

Please confirm: Both the white-box Castrol (MaxPro?) and black-box Castrol (MaxPro Plus?), as well as the yellow-box Penske filters, all available at KMart, are made by Wix?

If a filter has a 'W' stamped on the metal on the open end of the filter, does that pretty much guarantee it's made by Wix? The Kia brand filter I installed on our Sedona minivan last weekend has a 'W.'

zr2rando

I have used and cut up 1 of each. The version I use is for the Chevy trucks, the 3980.
The white and the yellow are the same on the inside, the black uses thicker paper (says synthetic mix) and had slightly less sq inches..
The thicker paper still FILLED the cannister though.
Nothing wrong that I could see.

bluedevils

Do you think the Castrol MaxPro Plus (black box) is worth the extra buck?

fleetwoodsimca

I change my oil around 3K and I think that at that periodicity, the extra buck might buy me very little. I will concede that it might keep even tinier particles out of my oil circulation, but I VERY seldom see 100K on any odometer I happen to ever own. I don't need to gild the lily.

sthughes99

In my area, the K Mart black box Castrol's are $4.99. I can go to an auto parts store & get the full fledged Wix for the same price. I have no info on whether/how much synthetic fiber is in the filter paper on either one.

In the next month or two, I'll cut apart a Wix & Penske both, & compare filter material. May be interesting. ;^)

fleetwoodsimca

Here, along the front range of the Rocky Mountains, I never see Wix filters for sale except as house brands, like NAPA, Penske, and Castrol.

ruking1

It seems that out of the aftermarkets, the task is to see which of the "good" manufacturers make your favorite aftermarket product. So far it seems like Allied Signal, Purolator, Champion Labs, Hastings, Wix. Just by chance alone, you have a good chance of getting a halfway good filter. (80%)

bluedevils

open end of the metal canister means it's made by Wix? Just trying to figure out who is making the Kia-brand filters I bought. I'll probably stop buying them but wanted to get a 2 from my local dealer, just to give them a little business.

At 5 bucks, the Castrol MaxPro Plus (black box) seems like not a great bargain. For that price I can get a Purolator PureOne, which has been my filter of choice for a while. However, I'm starting to think any decent filter will do, since my change interval will be 3,000-4,000 miles with SL conventional oil.

fleetwoodsimca

I've got several Castrol and Penske filters, but I do not find the "W" you have mentioned.

zr2rando

High efficiency filters, unless they come with more area of filter material, will have a shorter service life than lower efficiency filters will.
Higher efficiency filters are better for normal shorter intervals. Standard efficency filters are better for extended intervals (they actually gain efficiency as they start filling up with contaminants). As the filter packs up with material, the efficiency goes up and the flowrate goes down.

alternator

I just bought at K-Mart for my Mazda Protege also has no W marked on it.

adc100

Does not always have to come with a price. A depth media (fiberglass)can give higher efficiencies and more dirt holding ability vs a surface media(paper). Problem is how much fiberglass do any of them have. Mobil 1's filter and Supertechs have it. Just don't really know how much or how good.

ruking1

#1432

Actually a little known fact is that AC Delco PF 44 have synthetic filtering media. I am at comfort buy on price (supertech, AC Delco) AC Delco PF-44's are the specified filter for the Corvette's up to 15,000 mile oil change or 12 mo. Also little known is that with this filter and oil, the statistical middle of 175,000 miles has been tested for.

fleetwoodsimca

You wanna shed a little light on that?

ruking1

You mean about the filter or the durability of the engine using the synthetic oil GM4718 standard aka Mobil One synthetic and the AC Delco PF44 filter?

zr2rando

ADC100, good point about depth filters, they can have higher efficiency and hold more dirt than standard surface media filters, but high efficiency still comes with a cost. I haven't seen any depth filters in a while, last one I found was several years ago, it was made by Hastings and I used it on a 1976 280Z, first thing I noticed was extremely high oil pressure on the gauge with that new filter. I let it warm up and the pressure stayed high. I took it off and put a normal filter on and pressure went back to normal, never tried one again. If a filter will catch extremely small particles at a high rate it will clog up faster than a filter that lets those smaller particles pass through, that is the definition of high efficiency. The depth filters may have more capacity is true, but in order for the depth media to capture all the small particles it has to be very compacted and will cause additional resistance to flow just due to the nature of the material. Depth filters are better suited to bypass type filters because they filter very well but don't obstruct full flow of oil.
High efficiency filtration is fine for someone who really has a thing for clean oil, but they should not expect those high efficiency filters to be used for extended drains. Any standard filter that is constructed well would be good for extended drains, it would gain efficiency anyway as it collects dirt through its service life.

PAman

A local shop owner does a call-in show on KTSA on Saturdays here in San Antonio. He is a big believer in synthetic oil. Here in our dry dusty summer climate, that makes sense. He recommends using synthetic oil (at least 10W30 or 20W50, no 5W20 or 5W30) and going to a 10,000 mile oil change interval. However, he also recommends changing the FILTER at 5,000 miles and topping off the oil to compensate for the oil lost when changing the filter. I've been doing that for 30K miles with my 2000 Chevy S-10 with a 4.3 engine. The oil is still fairly clean at 10K and the engine runs better than ever on synthetic.

As for the price, to me $4.99 is nothing for a filter. If I can keep the smallest particles out of the oil by changing the filter more often, using a filter that traps as much dirt as is practical and using a synthetic oil that can better handle the South Texas summer heat, saving a buck or two on a cheaper oil filter doesn't make sense. Using a good oil but a cheap filter that will let particles wear on the cylinder walls seems foolish to me. If you live in a dusty climate, such as a city with dirty air or drive on a lot of dirt or gravel roads, I would strongly recommend frequent oil and air filter changes along with a good PCV valve.

By the way, I cleared out the local K-Marts when they were closing of all the black-box Castrol filters that fit my truck and my wife's car.

fleetwoodsimca

ruking1: Yes.

PAman: Those filters you bought should be very good. They are made by Wix, which is a highly reputable company.

ruking1

#1438

You mean about the filter or the durability of the engine using the synthetic oil GM4718 standard aka Mobil One synthetic and the AC Delco PF44 filter? "

The synthetic filter (AC DELCO PF-44) and synthetic oil meeting the GM 4718 standard, ( ie Mobil One etc,) given an up to 15,000 mile/ or 12mo oil change interval has been statistically tested and calculated to last 175,000 miles. 175k is the middle most point, so you would expect the normal distribution curve to occur. (8 SD's of app 12.5% per SD. Obviously there are many variables that would effect/affect this but with good care and systematic maintenance, which includes up to 15k mile oil change intervals given synthetic oil and synthetic filter ie AC DELCO PF-44, it should go the distance! So for example if distance is your concern, rev your engine no greater than 80% of the redline.

What i find interesting is that this is a "high performance" engine!

zr2rando

And it seems lots of folks do it. Keep in mind how the filter works.
New oil and new filter, not much dirt in the oil yet. As the dirt starts accumulating in the oil the filter is its least efficient and the flow is the highest. As the filter starts filling up, the efficiency starts going up too, and the flow starts decreasing as well. Then you get to 5k miles and put in a new filter and top off oil and start over. It's the best way to use a high efficiency filter and get the most benefit from expensive synthetic oil.
Keep in mind though the AIR filter also filters the best when it is a little dirty as well (the dirt actually helps with the filtering..), usually best to leave it on until it is really dirty. I use water filters at my house (we have a well), I wait until I notice some reduced pressure before I change those filters, they are REALLY covered with clay and they are still flowing plenty of water, and that water is actually cleaner than with a new filter.
I have 2 Chevy trucks with the 4.3 motor, I use the Walmart filters and standard Havoline/Chevron oil and change it at 3 kmiles.
Keep on truckin!!!

fleetwoodsimca

I do the 3K, and I like your oil brands, and filter choices. I would only disagree a bit on the air filter philosophy. I don't wait for paper air filters to get really dirty, because decreased air flow interferes with engine efficiency and performance. I have left K & N gauze filters for extended periods, because it is a documented good thing.

zr2rando

Your doing the same thing as I am, I use the K&N air filters and let them get plenty dirty before I clean them. They will not restrict air flow even when they really look pretty dirty (and like I said before, the dirt is helping do the filter work), standard filters can also still flow very well even when they look dirty too,,,air molecules are pretty small in the grand scheme of things....:)
Filtration is a cool science, it is amazing how a filter can perform even when it looks really bad.
In order to really tell when the filter needs changing you need a pressure gauge before and after the filter, and when the pressure drop across the filter spikes it is time to change the filter..that works for air/water/oil..whatever.
It's a judgement call for the individual user, do you want flow or really clean air...usually the flow is more impt for engines that run higher rpms, other engines don't rev high enough for the filter to usually be an issue,,enough air still gets through. Same with fuel filter, folks don't see a problem until they start noticing the high rpm is surging but lower rpm is fine..that lets you know the filter REALLY needs changing. More dirt actually goes through clean filters (any kind) than dirty ones though, its just a fact.
see ya
Rando

fleetwoodsimca

zr2rando: I have only used K&N filters on motorcycles, and use "common" paper filters from Wix and Fram in my cars and trucks. Even though Fram oil filters have a diminished reputation, I just don't see a problem at all with Fram air filters. I buy when the price is right! K&N claims flow bench data showing that flow improves when their filters get dirty. One theoretical avenue is that the turbulence of the air is reduced. I know nothing about K&N oil filters, and do not pursue it, only because I am very content using Wix and Champion oil filters, usually under house brands at Kmart, Walmart, and Autozone. I also dabble in ACDelco and Motorcraft when available at competitive prices. That is usually at Pep Boys or Walmart. I get a few Wix air and oil filters from NAPA now and again, but the price is noticeably higher.

zr2rando

The Fram air filters look fine to me, they actually look better than most other brands that I've ever seen, must be a different dude that makes them than the one that makes the oil filters!!
The main reason I use the K&N air filters is just that they can go longer between cleaning than the paper filters can go between replacing. As far as them having INCREASED air flow due to additional dirt in the filter, they can say whatever they want to...I don't believe it (extra dirt will help efficiency though). All I care about is they work good enough for my trucks,,any real high air flow benefits mainly help high rpm engines and my trucks aren't.
Have a good day
Rando

gm02

Walmart in EW,CT has AC Delco pf20 & pf1072 for only a $.25....not sure what cars they r 4 but thought I would throw it out there.

fleetwoodsimca

Over the last couple weeks I have visited three different Kmart locations. In one, no Penske or Castrol filters were on sale. In the other two, Castrol was stated to be on closeout, and the Penske filters were at full price. I am wondering what the underlying corporate plan really is... ?

alternator

If K-Mart had a "plan" would they be where they now are?

csandste

Black and white stripes, since prison orange has already been grabbed by Fram.

bottgers

....but as long as we're here....I'm running a K&N air filter in one of my cars. I've been thinking about putting one in my other car, but I've heard some bad things about the K&N's lately. I've been hearing that K&N's don't filter as well as OEM filters do. Is there any truth to this?

Also, I've always used Fram air filters (when I'm not using a K&N). Though their oil filters are crap, I've never heard anything bad about their air filters. Have any of you?

armtdm

I have tried the foam filters and both Fram and Purolator. Although not scientific my oil analysis results imply that the OEM filters (although more expensive then Fram and Purolators) do a better job of filtration then all others. I think they are also better constructed. Make sure on the aftermarket filters that you are not getting a lot of cardboard or rubber material in lieu of filter material. Seem that they are decreasing the filter media and adding filler cardboard to make up the space to make them fit.

Now, on oil filters, yep. Many are better then OEM including Mobil 1, Hastings, Amsoil, K&N and Pure One