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Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?
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" NOT FOR SALE,
EAT YOUR HEART OUT"
And looking at the odometer and checking my spreadsheet I've put 2.5k on in about 5 weeks.
Can't figure out where the hell I drove. But fleetwood,I do have that Chevron Supreme 10-30 in stock calling me from the garage to pamper the old crankcase with it.
The "dirty" oil then passes through the filter media where it is "cleaned". It then flows to the central tube and back into the engine through the usually threaded hollow center mounting stud.
The Bypass Valve
Under ideal conditions, the bypass valve will never open. When it opens, the oil by passes the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in real operation, it opens often.
One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting.
Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.
A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.
If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.
If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.
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My in laws gave me an '88 civic wagon w/AWD last year. I put about $ 1200 into which was paid for with a rebate on my Citibank drivers edge card.(Had my pop in law give me a bill of sale for 1k and I paid the sales tax). I'm looking for 200k from this car , it has 110k on it. Some rust on rear wheel wells, a project to address soon. It mostly a winter car as a/c malfunctions. It is a quick little SOB with f.inj. 1.6L
Let me put it this way: I can hold out for at least two years without any more purchases.>:oÞ
Filter Cartridge Length Pleat Depth Pleat Number Area Notes
Chevy S10 4.3 V6
Castrol Plus CMP3980 3 11/16 10/16 47 217 box says synth mix, paper obviously thicker (lrg int holes)
Penske Maxpro CM3980 3 11/16 10/16 50 230 std paper lrg int holes
Penske PN3980 3 11/16 10/16 50 230 std paper lrg int holes
PureOne PL24011 3 12/16 8/16 63 236 box says "micronic", no string around cart.
Kmart AC PF52 4 3/16 13/16 36 244 std paper lrg int holes
Walmart AC PF52 4 8/16 61 244 std paper
Supertech St3980 3 12/16 8/16 55 206 box says synthetic enhanced media
Well it is easy enough to read I guess but I would rather it be able to be 1 line per record...
Basically the Supertech looks like it is made by Champion, (same construction as the Walmart version of the AC PF52) but with a few noticeable differences.
The anti-backflow valve is the same.
Center tube on both is the same
The Supertech cartridge is shorter (AC is 4in, ST is 3.75)
The Supertech cannister is visually thinner than the AC, Not flimsy, but is thinner.
The Supertech has visually thicker media than the AC, which looks like is the reason that it contains less square inches,(about 15% less), the cartridge is still well filled with media (evenly and closely spaced)..box says it is synthetic enhanced, but visually you can see it is thicker.
I would say that the filter is very well made, and definitely worth the money (I paid $1 for them, but normal price is $2). They do have a limitation though, at least in this application, they have less filtration area (and using synthetic enhanced media) would decrease total flow faster than some other brands would.
I change oil at 3k miles, sometimes even less, so the lack of media area is probably not a show stopper, but I would NOT recommend the filter for extended drains (unless you change filters during the oil change interval)
Hope this info is usefull to anyone using the Supertechs!!
Rando
I definitely don't have any reason to NOT use them.
I use dashes to keep things seperated. This site ignores spaces and closes the gap, which screws up your spacing.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000048
Good morning,
Rando
Yes, I also get the feeling the marketing and merchandizing is going on store by store. I have to admit that it is a good feeling getting a 8 dollar retail filter AC Delco PF-44 for 2 bucks and below. I do miss that loud orange color however!
Good luck.
I will never again be without them.
Their construction is excellent, and they making all but changing the filter much easier. Not to mention you will never have to worry about stripping the drain plug threads.
Also, does the oil drain out nearly as fast with the drain device installed as without it?
Draining is slowed by the valve, but the hose allows you to direct the oil into a milk jug or other such container for disposal. I cut both of my hoses to about four inches to make them easier to handle. They are still plenty long enough to go well into the drain jug.
My only concern would be if the drain plug is directly on the bottom of the oil pan and hangs down to where it can be easily hit going over something. In that case, you might damage or knock the valve off more easily than you would knock the original drain plug off. It only protrudes about 3/4 of an inch, but that is farther than the original plug does.
I agree with you.
I change my oil and oil filter once a year or 15k miles.
The hardest part of the oil change is getting the vehicle lifted to its proper position and the clean up!!! If you look at the % time you do the task , (wrenching the oil drain plug) It is almost so low as to be negligible.
Besides for what those plugs cost I can buy 4-5 oil filters.
$13 for this kind of convenience is worth far more to me than a few cokes, beers or Big Macs. If you haven't used one of these you do not know what you are missing. Brand name is of no importance on these.
As far as damaging the drain valve. On both of my cars, the plug is on the back side above the bottom edge of the oil pan. If anything hits one of them, I hope I am not in the car at that time.
In addition to changing the oil one a year (100's of times to me would 1.5m miles) My drain plug already has less than 3.5 in road clearance. It also faces foward at almost the lowest point on the underbody. If in the unlikely case it would fit between the notched out cross member it would be even lower!!! I have to agree with you even more than you state.
"As far as damaging the drain valve. On both of my cars, the plug is on the back side above the bottom edge of the oil pan. If anything hits one of them, I hope I am not in the car at that time."
Just my 2 cents. I'm not the Pontiff on the topic.
(:oÞfwatson Hey, Cokes and beers are one thing, but a Big Mac? I couldn't give THAT up!
I use the Wallyworld $2 SuperTechs (Champion) on my Hondas.
Many of us like to be more conservative, so we choose 3,000 miles for our oil and oil filter change. Now, if that seems overly expensive or inconvenient, consider the following:
The most-modern of motor cars in its own time (and a wonderful technological marvel it truly was) --- the 1930-1932 Model L29 Cord --- had the following manufacturer's service recommendations:
Engine: Every 500 miles, change oil (8 quarts)
Engine: Every 8,000 to 10,000 miles, change oil filter (WOW !!!)
Chassis: Daily, or every 100 miles, depress lubricator pedal
Generator: Every 1,000 miles, add 8/10drops of oil to front and rear cap oilers
Starter: Every 1,000 miles, add 8/10drops of oil to oiler
Distributor: Every 1,000 miles, oil breaker arm pivots, give grease cup one turn, lube cam with vaseline
Wheel universals: Every 2,000 miles, lube
Drag link: Every 500 miles, add grease
Front tie rod: Every 500 miles, add grease
Rear wheel bearings: Every 3 to 6 months, clean and repack
Front wheel bearings: Every 3 to 6 months, clean and repack
Steering gear: Every 500 miles, top off oil
We really have it easy today don't we?