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Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?

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Comments

  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Recycling anything takes energy, and that energy often comes from oil. Just a thought.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    I always find a garage that burns used motor in their furnace. Many of those people do and welcome my 15 gallons of used oil in the spring-their heating oil supply is usually down and they don't want to have to buy heating oil.

    There are some trucks running around picking up used motor oil-I also notice they have a special hazardous material warning sticker on the tank. Am told some of these collection companies charge to pick up the oil.

    Just don't pour it down a storm drain or your toilet-that really screws up the works.
  • jsleesijsleesi Member Posts: 33
    Now a days most of the engines are manufactured with all Aluminium heads and blocks, where are the metal particles coming from? The piston bearings has been using copper or brass for a long time.

    Can some one feed back?
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I'm not taking sides on this, but do look at paragraph 7 on this Amsoil web page:


    http://www.autopridegroup.com/switch.html

  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    Well, it's a sad day for magnets!
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    Used one on my camry.
    Thought I had used them before with no problems..
    Tried to remove it today, the cup wrench I have used before slipped and woud not remove it.
    Had to use gant channel locks.
    Has there been any dimensional change in the filters?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Don't know the answer to that, but when I had a question about a size substitution by a Wal-Mart tech, I contacted their techs through their (Champion Labs) web site and got a rapid reply to my question.
  • gdblakegdblake Member Posts: 18
    I called Purolator about the statement of the Motorcraft filter having a Pure-One element. I was told it DID NOT, in fact it was closer to the Premium Plus filter, except that the Premium Plus filtered smaller particles, since Ford stipulated a "long life" specification in preference to smaller micron filtering.
  • r42bxr42bx Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone heard of Mighty oil filters. I went along with the oil change people had got a Mighty oil filter because the other shops in the immediate area seemed to use Mighty as well. I have never heard of it. There is not much on the internet. If anyone knows could you email me . r42bx@aol.com . Thanks
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    They wrote back the next day and explained that the reason my wrench did not fit was some temporary can size changes during plant remodeling.
    That solved the problem.
    Thanks to them.

    (filter had 15 flats on it vice 14)
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    And wasn't it nice of them putting a sticker on the box explaining that the can had been changed and you would need a different "cup wrench" to use with it ----- NOT!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #1611

    There is like a adjustable wrench that can be used with a socket set extention and ratchet wrench that is a real winner! It can put a lot of torque on the filter (if needed) and cost app 7-9 bucks. In addition it does not mar or damage the filter upon installation or removal.

    For example on one machine, I actually put a torque value of 22ft#'s, because one time another filter worked loose that was not torqued to 22 ft #'s and put on the old tried and true way of 1/4 to 1/2 extra turn once the seal presents resistance.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Any idea who might carry this puppy-gotta remove a VW Van filter that has been on toooo many years and can't find my cup wrench.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #1613

    Here in this neck of the woods a Kragens, PEP Boys or even an Idependent. This wrench looks more rectangular, with like 4 metal fingers or extensions. It is NOT an adjustable strap wrench!
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    is gasket contact & then 3/4 to 1 full turn.1/4 turn after contact is really nothing.
  • mazdanymazdany Member Posts: 28
    I've been checking the auto parts stores and it seems these 2 are the 'best' brands. Which one is better? Both claim to have the highest mult pass and single pass efficiency ratings. Or should I just stick with an OEM Tennex filter? I drain at 5K using Mobil 1 or Valvoline Synthetic.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #1615

    You are correct. I wrote a "typo." It should have read 3/4 to 1 turn. The 22 ft #'s on the AC Delco PF-44 filter comes from the vehicles service manual. This was the first time in 40 years of oil changing that it has EVER happened to me!! For that vehicle I very definitely go with the recommend torque values!
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I got a great adjustable filter wrench from Discount Auto Parts. It has a good range to fit all but the old huge FL1-A filters and similar. But it works perfectly with a 3/8 inch ratchet and extension on both my 2001 Mazda Millenia, and 1995 Olds 88.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    I think you're right about those 2 being the best. I use the Mobil1 because I use the Mobil1 synthetic oil and just wanted to keep it all with the same company. Use the good ones.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I'm glad Champion solved the mystery. I have noted over time that end cap wrenches have a shortcoming on staying in place when trying to remove very tight or almost seized filters. I have discovered that often the problem lies in the relationship between the working tip of the extension bar plugged into the end cap wrench, and the surface of the filter that the extension bar often can touch. This acts as a limiting factor in the application of rotary force to unthread the filter from the mount. What it amounts to is that you cannot hold enough pressure against the end cap wrench to force it to stay heavily engaged with the flats on the canister. The reason being that pushing only jams the tip of the extension harder against the filter surface, and the cap wrench is able to "float" a little back and forth. This leads to slippage, vile utterances, and reaching for water pump pliers. (:ºÞ
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    you are right about the floating.
    a better cap design would be a welded on socket area for the extension to press into
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I go for that design idea.
    I stopped by a couple of Kmarts today, seeking Penske and Castrol filters for my latest vehicle. I am now 99.9% convinced that soon there will be only Fram available at Kmart. I read a sign at the second store that said "No returns on discontinued filters-- Penske and Castrol." They were on clearance prices, and the selection was poor. I found two filters I could use, and bought them. I will likely turn my attention in the future to Champion made filters at Walmart and Autozone-- Supertech, STP, and Bosch-- In that order.
  • edwardn1edwardn1 Member Posts: 103
    Does anyone know if the supertechs are selling well at walmart? I buy nothing but supertech, and it appears the logical choice of anyone who has even gone anywhere near this thread. I just hope they sell well enough so that wallyworld does not become another fram colony.
    BTW, in feb 87 issue of consumer reports the fram was far and away the best filter accross the board, and that is for both capacity AND minute filtration. Because of the consumer reports article, Ive used fram from then untill I started reading this thread. The exception was using genuine toyota in our 150k mile 4 cyl. camry. The dealer has the toyota filter cut open on display next to a {would you know it} FRAM!
    As you can see you guys have changed my oil filter buying habits probably for life.
    At $1.97 for a superior filter, I can live with that.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    wal mart here has lots of frams,
    less super techs each year.
    Fram may pressure the store, sorta like Kraft foods used to do on salad dressings and proctor and gamble on laundry detergent.

    old cup wrenches dont fit on the frams with the grit material on the ends - are those frams supposed to come off without a wrench?
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Menard's has the following wrench for $2.99!


    http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=622&location_id=193


    It is ruggedly made and the extension allows you to remove or tighten filters that most other wrenches cannot reach.

  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    You're referring to the STRAP wrench, correct? I have sort of avoided those due to the shifting position of the arm part of it, as it traverses a circular path around the circumference occupied by the filter. Does that ever create a problem? I have imagined such wrenches sort of binding up, due to room and space restrictions in tighter access situations.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The whole issue now a days is whether or not there is the room for a strap wrench to complete its rotations. In 100% of vehicles I now have, and almost 100% of vehicles I have helped folks with, the answer is NO!!
  • knapp3knapp3 Member Posts: 112
    Finally, someone actually called Purolator about all this speculation since Russ Kinsee did his study that a Motorcraft may be a PureOne. I've long suspected that it is wishful thinking at best, and yours is the 1st common sense reaction.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I see this wrench as just about the only alternative in applications where only a "cup" type wrench can be used due to lack of clearance.

    The extension part of this wrench is parallel to the length of the filter, so only about an inch of clearance beyond diameter of the filter is required. If you have a proper fitting "cup" type wrench, use it. But, if not, this wrench works just fine and the price is right.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I have two cup wrenches that equals 3 different sizes,one is stepped.It fits everything I run into.I refuse to buy the Fram with the black friction material,I find it very difficult to remove the wrench,what a dumb idea.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    the fram wrench causes cup wrenches that used to fit, not to fit anymore

    can someone post a pix or plews website?
  • gdblakegdblake Member Posts: 18
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    My Festiva uses a Super tech 2808 (I think), but does anyone know if there is a larger filter that will fit the 1.3l? I'd like to get a little more oil in there :)
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    The "bigger" name parts houses, such as NAPA, have master filter books of what they offer. You can do some reference and research work in one of these, and come up with substitutions that will work on most applications. Years ago, I even sleuthed out automotive filters to use on a Harley Evolution engine I had.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    For the Ford Festiva, FOMOCO, or even a competitor such as AC Delco has forms of "master file books " to be able to cross reference their products that will fit on almost all vehicles.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Local Menards has Quaker filters on sale for about 1.50 each-anybody know who makes the QS filters-don't look like fram crap-have a little spring deal in the bottom and different hole pattern or is that another way to sell you know what.

    thanks
  • piecekeeperpiecekeeper Member Posts: 18
    I've been changing my oil for years and I have problems keeping oil from going all over me when I twist off the oil filter. I guess a small amount of oil is supposed to stay in the filter. How do I remove that oil so it doesn't leak all over? I considered punching a hole in it with a screw driver prior to unscrewing it. Then I thought twice because should I be unable to get the filter off, I've got a bigger problem, the hole. Any ideas?
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Does your filter point open-end up, or open-end down, or is the filter horizontal? Dependent on orientation, different ideas may be suggested.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I often use a bunch of rags or paper towels and let the "excess" drainage flow into that, while I wait a bit.
  • knapp3knapp3 Member Posts: 112
    Well, 1st off, go buy some cheap, disposable latex gloves. You know, ones like the doctors wear. You can usually find them in the paint section of any hardware store. You can get a box of 100 for under $10. Not only do they keep oil, grease and other unmentionables off you while changing the oil, but they also insulate your skin from the heat of hot oil. If your filter is in a bad spot and spills oil easily, here are some ideas I've heard from others to contain the oil: put old newspaper on the garage floor, wrap a zip lock baggie around the filter once it's loose and then let the oil drain into the baggie as you finish untightening it, and lastly, position old plastic bags under the filter so they drain the oil into a pan and spare the frame from all that spilt oil on the way down. Enjoy!
  • knapp3knapp3 Member Posts: 112
    bburton1, you are right. They are the finest, high quality filters Fram makes. None are better, except argueably your GM Delco, Motorcraft or any other oem brand, Walmart SuperTech, Bosch, Mobil, Amsoil, Baldwin, Wix, Purolator, STP, Napa, Kmart, Deutch, or maybe Fram's Tough Guard filter, and any other yet-to-be discovered brand. :)
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    I would expect that they are FRAM but that whole line has changed. The new Ph series looks as if it follows the designs of everyone else now that Honeywell owns them. No one would keep making that crap forever. Wish someone would give me one to cut up.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Let us know what you discover!
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    Awhile back I had put some infor here for the filter for my Nissan truck, I think I had one of the numbers wrong, but I can't find the old post (in less than 20 minutes anyway) so here's some info for comparison....
    Kmart AC PF20 243sqin std paper
    Motorcraft FL300 293sqin Purolator clone
    Penske Maxpro CM43 263sqin Wix clone
    Nissan engine is the 2.4l 4cyl, I used Frams years ago, but stopped when I learned how they were causing valve noise until the oil warmed up.
    see y'all
    Rando
  • piecekeeperpiecekeeper Member Posts: 18
    Alternator, my oil filter faces down, sort of lies
    horizontal. Lot of good suggestions since I posted "Keeping oil off me". Someone told me if I let the truck sit an hour after parking it, the oil will drain out of the filter. I thought the filters are designed to keep a certain amount of oil in the filter so it gets to the engine as soon as possible after you start the engine.
  • piecekeeperpiecekeeper Member Posts: 18
    Walmart told me Quaker State makes Tech Oil. Does anyone know who makes Super Tech Oil Filters. Forgot to ask Walmart.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Quaker State bought an independent company in Shreveport called Specialty Petroleum. Quaker State was bought by Pennzoil, Pennzoil by Shell.

    Base stock is actually Exxon (probably). Some of the SuperTech production has been shifted to Warren Petroleum. Here are spec. sheets for the four PZ/QS brands. The ST is an old spec sheet for their SJ oil.

    Super Tech filters are Champion Labs.

    10W30 SuperTech Pennzoil Quaker St. Wolf's Head
    Visc. 40c 73.2 67.0 69.1 65.3
    Visc 100c 11.0 10.5 10.5 10.5
    Visc. Indx 140 160 139 138
    Flash-F 410 430 410 430
    Pour-F -29 -33 -22 -17
    Low Pumping-C -25 -30 -22 -30
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    Some brands will drain out after an hour and other brands will not drain out even after sitting overnight, and it can be different for a given brand on each particular application they make too. On my Nissan truck, the Castrol/Wix brand stays completely full even sitting overnight, some others have emptied out after that long....either way if it sits until cool, the oil will be thicker and won't spill as fast...spin it off quick and you may save a little mess for yourself....
    good luck
    Rando
  • edwardn1edwardn1 Member Posts: 103
    have a 74 dodge dart with a 225 six. the oil filter is positioned base down. several years ago i noticed that 5 quarts with a filter change would have the oil level about .75 quart high after driving it and letting it sit overnight. from reading these posts i now conclude the check valve was letting the oil in the filter go back to the pan when it sat overnight, which is when i check my oil. because of the junk fram, i ran almost a quart low for fear of overservicing. i thought there must of been a lot of sludge for the engine to suddenly need only 4 quarts with a filter change. walmart supertech from now on.
    the way the fram bled down because of the bad check valve, the only way to get an accurate oil check was right after turning off the engine before the oil had a chance to drain back. no more fram.
This discussion has been closed.