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Ford Super Duty
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Comments
Lariat package on either F250 or F350 or can you
get a good feel by looking at a Ford Expedition ?
Do you need or are you wise to get the PTO (power
take off) option if you want to snowplow? What is the best small plow,easy hookup product for this truck? Anyone plowing out there? What's the verdict on this truck (SD - F250/350)
I would like to thank all the regulars here for all the info and reading material that keeps those of us who are/have been waiting for our trucks, not as crazy as we could have been.
If any one is looking for a dealer to talk to, the person I went through was really honest about everything. When I ordered, all I had to put down was a hand shake. The price I was quoted at the time I ordered, was the price I paid last night.
As far as I can tell from looking at the previous posts and going through multiple car pricing sites I got about as good a price as a single vehicle buyer can get. His info
Isaac Pacheco, commercial accounts manager, Garnsey & Wheeler Ford Greeley CO
fleet@gwford.com, I have only dealt with him he is the person in charge of the internet business.
I know he does alot of business all over the country, he is worth the time to contact him.
Thanks again for all the help folks
Go Bronco's
Give me a shout when you get that truck home and tell me what you think! Did you order the S Cab or CC? I could'nt remember! You will be impressed I'm sure! Oh Yes Go Vikes!
Mroffshore
P.S. I've still got that vibration/hum that the dealer says is normal.
Just got in the door from picking up the "Brute"
and I am tickled to death. The V-10 has all the
pep I will need to haul that bassrig all over
this great big U S of A. Got less than 100 miles
on it but can't find any bugs so far. I tried the
ESOF at 5mph, then 15mph and then 25mph with no
noise or clunks at all. Don't figure I need to
be engaging 4X4 at any speed greater than 25mph.
The premium sound system is great and the premium
wheels are nicer than picture shows. All in all
it appears to be "just what the doctor ordered".
By the way mroffshore I did indeed get the super
cab. Well fellows I got to go and get my pillow
and blanket ready---can't let the Brute get lonely
on the first night home.
Thanks for all the good posts.......From all...
The Brown Fish Man.
When the welder is connected, the ground is within six inches of the point of weld. All the current goes between those two points. The voltage is only about 25-30 volts. Just switching your fan motor or A/C clutch creates spikes much greater than that. Also, for the alternator to be damaged a current needs to flow through it. So the current flows from the chassis (i.e. Ground or Earth as the Brits say.) to the alternator ground to the positive side of the alternator to the battery and back to ground? I don't think so.
Rich
We be tickled in Tennessee.....
Wonder is MJE ever got his truck. He did
have the record for waiting.
Ye'all have a great weekend.
We be going after them smallmouth at 06:00 in the
morning. Life is good.
The Brown Fish Man
Dennis
P.S. It's great in the snow too.
I will be pulling a 5th wheel 36+ft trailer with two race cars in it. Plus all the tools and equipment. Right now I am pulling a 24' with a 97 f150 and the stability is terrible.
I've seen posts that say that the trailer towing mirrors stick out just about as far as the dualy's fenders. That tells me that my F-250 with the mirrors won't be able to go through the drive through either.
I guess it doesn't make much sense to forgo the dually if the towing mirrors are another limiting factor.
Rich
The mirrors stick out slightly farther, which is useful -- if they make it, the delicate fiberglass will too.
I have a 99SD in dark hunter green w/prarie tan bottom and I just love it. It's really hard to tell from the little one inch samples of paint they give you, but I don't think you will regret it.
To Tom18
I plow with a Western 8'unimount, and both truck and plow get along just fine.
Saturday I went Grouse hunting in my old 1990 Ford
F-150 and when I got back my SD was gone with my
16 yr old daughter. Didn't get to drive it all
day sat. Sunday came back from church and planning on takeing the new SD through town a few
times to show it off and she has it and gone again. I haven't drove the thing since I picked
it up friday. Now dad is stuck with a 98 Mustang.
This is not the way it is suppose to go.......
She loves the SD over a 98 Mustang....go figure.
Wait 4 1/2 months and still don't have a SD.
Life aint fair....
The Brown Fish Man.
JB
give me an estimated Miles Per Gallon?
hmmm...
a 16 year old girl piloting a Super Duty... Where were girls like that when I was in high school? I might not still be single now!!
62R Transmission Power Take-Off Provision
REQUIRES (44E) transmission and (99S) engine or (99F) engine. $213 $250
Can anyone explain classIV hitch vs other hitch classifications example a class 3 hitch? Still looking for ideas on headrests for backseat in an SD supercab- anyone deal with this?
Thank you #176 sd99 for info on plowing.
what is a 20% overdrive unit?
There is a booklet Ford publishes for body upfitters and the like and there is a pretty LONG list of what you are supposed to do before welding. It's available in PDF format from
www.meadowlandford.com
or you could check your local dealer.
When I get a chance I'll pull out my copy and post a little more.
Also, the class 5 hitch can ONLY be ordered if you also order the towing package or camper package.(at least thats what they told me when I ordered mine) They also told me that you can't get a DEALER installed class 5 hitch, only class 3. That is because the camper package and towing package give you a few heavy duty items such as battery, alternator, stabilizer bar, etc. They told me that they don't want trucks driving around with hitches stamped 10,000# when the trucks can't safely handle that much.
i've reported some of these past problems because i myself have seen a lot of them. but one thing to consider is that the '99 is a "new" Powerstroke, so the past may not be revelant after all, maybe they will go 300,000. my experience with the current high tech automotive diesels is they have been expensive to maintain.
paulgoe,
Mileage in an F-250 SD SC 7.3l, Auto, 3.73 LS rear end.
Initially, 17 MPG mostly city and LA stop and stop traffic; BUT very gentle and breaking in.
On the highway LA / Vegas at 80-85, better than 16 MPG, but not much. Lately on the freeway and more go than stop about 17 MPG. Now with 10000 miles and on the last tank 18.2 MPG. That was 25% city and stop and go traffic with 75% with cruise control set at 72 MPH. If I play in traffic (It's an LA thing.) the mileage drops off to the low 15s.
involute,
You have purchased one of the most reliable engines on the road today. I see no reason why you shouldn't get 300,000 miles without major engine work. I know of an '84, 6.9L (Maybe '85) that was traded to his brother inlaw at 294K miles. The last I heard was that the B I L was still driving it but I don't know how many miles are on it now. My '99 is my third and the previous two totaled about a quarter million miles and weren't burning enough oil to add between changes. (AND that was always SAE 30 oil which burns faster than multi grade.)
The formula for a smooth running and long lasting engine is 99% common sense! Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance and common sense.
A diesel engine is designed to burn diesel fuel. NOT ATF! NOT peanut oil! NOT used french fry oil! You will hear the "Office Expert" say to put everything under the sun in the fuel tank. Typically these "Experts" have their heads where it is dark and don't smell very pleasant. Try to buy your fuel from branded stations and preferrably truck stops. (My brand preference has always been Flying-J, Unocal 76, Chevron and Texaco; in that order.) After the first 5,000 miles or so, I would start adding a good grade of lubricity enhancer to the fuel. I've been using Hoopes or Hoppers or something like that. It looks like honey in color and I add 1 oz. per quarter tank of fuel added. This conditioner can be purchased at most full service truck stops. A half gallon should last about 15-20 K miles. I think that I paid $9 for the half gallon. A small plastic baby bottle is an excellent measuring device. (This is the old style bottle that uses the nipples that DON'T look like mom's. Evenflo is the brand.) The nice part is that the neck of the bottle fits INTO the fuel filler pipe. You'll need to change your fuel filter every 15,000 miles.
If you're in cold weather, drain the water from the fuel filter and water separator at every tank fill up. In the summer, once every 3 to 5 K miles is ok.
Change your oil, all 14 quarts, and filter as recommended by Ford. I've been doing mine every 5,000 miles on all three vehicles. Usually I make the first oil change at 1,000 miles, the second at 3,000 miles and the third at 5,000 miles. There after, every 5,000 miles. The faster that you drive, the more oil the engine uses. This is true with gasoline engines also. I am, by nature, a frustrated NASCAR/CART/F1 wanna be. I drive too fast. I've rarely had to add oil between changes. The '99 SD has a deeper oil pan than older 7.3L engines. The Ford manual says that the crankcase capacity is 14 quarts. When 14 quarts are put in during the oil change, it appears to be over full. My last oil change I only put in 12 quarts and it finally hit the add mark after 4900 miles. Over and above everything else, be sure to use an oil that is formulated for diesel service. Ford suggests 15/40 in a SJ (I think) with a CH-4 rating. These are API terms and are fairly standard.
At fuel stops, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS check the oil. The reason is that you should be looking for oil increasing in the oil pan. This would mean a stuck injector. Diesel fuel is a poor lubricating agent and too much in the pan could cause very rapid bearing wear. The length of time that it takes to check the oil is nothing compared to the savings on repair costs later on. Checking the oil will give you a feel for how things are running.
Finally, cavitation issues. Yeah, it does happen but it is preventable. The problem is caused by an oscillation of the coolant during engine operation. The problem is more pronounced when the engine is operating under very heavy loads. International Havester (Navistar) suggests their product, Fleet Guard. Ford suggests FW-15 or FW-16 (A really intitutive name) as the solution. Ford suggests 8-10 ounces every 5,000 miles and at 48,000 or 36 months the coolant be changed. When the coolant is changed you have to condition the coolant with the Fleet Guard. I cant remember the exact mixture, but it's on the bottle of FW-16. (I think that they suggest 4 ounces per gallon. That's two bottles of FW-16 per radiator flush.)
Now the really good news. That's about all you have to do to last 300,000 miles.
There are many places to recycle used oil. The places that collect the oil usually sell it for 20-30 cents per gallon. You're doing them a favor. All of this maintenance can be performed by the average person. You save a bunch of bucks doing it yourself too. I've been doing all of this stuff since '86 on my diesels. My wife's '91 Accord went in for a small oil leak and belt change to the tune of $877 at 33,000 miles. I didn't spend that for maintenance in 130,000 miles on my '92. As you do your own maintenance you'll gain a greater appreciation for the vehicle and especially the diesel.
Yes I love my truck, it was more than worth the wait.
I got a CC, long bed, SRW, 4wd, XLT, 5spd, manual hubs.
I have already gotten the goose neck "hide-a-ball" installed, and the quick disconnect jumper cables, and had the exhaust system replaced from the cat back. The spray-on bedliner goes in on monday. New tires are scheduled this week.
The V-10 seems to have all the power my 460 did.
Thanks again to the folks who have kept the spirits up for those of us who were waiting for our trucks.
F250, cc, LB,PSD, CAP, Trailer and tow pkg ect. Mileage : 17+ around town and 20-21 on the highway at 65-68 mph. I noticed a little less with the winter diesel fuel. Great mileage for a big truck.
Brownfishman,
You the man! I'm glad to hear your happy. My daughter wants to take my truck too, problem is she's only 6.5 years old! HAHAHA Daughters can't live with them can't live without them! HAHAHAHA!
My internet service at home has changed hands and I have lost access at home for a few days. E-mail me at school if you like for now until I get squared away. I may go to Bell Atlantic.Good luck with the new truck!
Professor Rich,
As usual another impressive post! I brings back fond memories during my uneducated diesel days! You know April 1998! HAHAHAHA Boy have I come a long way since then. Thank you very much.
I thought the manual recommends the fw 16 or 16 be added every 15,000 miles. You posted 5,000 miles. I'm at 10,000 now and do not want to blow the chance for proper maintenance. Also I opened the valve for the water drain on the fuel filter. Ford recommends every 5,000 miles. I did not see any water and it looked and smelled like fuel. I did not like the drain set up Navistar set up. All the fuel just shot all over the front axle and now its a dirt magnet. I thought the drain tube would run a little closer to the ground and away from any part of the drive train or frame. I guess I should change the fuel filter on the next oil change at 15,000 miles. Any suggestions on the proper procedure. I have the cost of the oil changes down to about $27-28.
Mroffshore