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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • colloquorcolloquor Posts: 482
    Yes, the previous gen (XD) Elantra received the new generation's Elantra's head, and timing belt tensioner, toward the end of the XD's production run (late Spring and early Summer 2006). Most of the remaining 2006's on the lots when the 2007's hit the stores included these engine changes. Interestingly, the last production run also has the rough-textured protective spray completely covering the lower-half of the rocker panels, unlike previous XD's. I am sure there were other changes or tweaks as well.
  • hello and thanks for the reply to my previous question. While I am at it I would like to ask what is an XD elantra and my darn light still is on hehehehe
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    XD is the same as Elantra. I believe that is the name used in other countries.

  • thanks jim!!!!! i have been wondering thst 4 a while:0)
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    XD is the platform name for Elantras sold in the U.S. from 2001 to 2006 model years. Prior to that, Elantras were on the J2 platform. The 2007 and later Elantra platform is the HD and the upcoming Elantra Touring (wagon) is the FD platform.
  • because i disconnected the battery lol i couldnt deal with it anymore hehehhe thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!
  • anyone have any tips on how to get just a little more pep out of my 05 elantra. i don't wanna race the thing but i bog down alot on the hill out of my town everyday and was wondering if i could get a little more pep. mabey???????????
  • worldlyworldly Posts: 23
    Next to the primary window sticker on my new Elantra was an additional sticker outlining dealer installed options. The additional sticker had the following information:

    CAR CARE SYSTEM includes:

    - EXTERIOR PROTECTION (Forms a clear shell to seal out damaging oxidation, pollutants, detergents, UV rays, acid rain, bird droppings, and tree sap. Carries a 5-year warranty.)

    - INTERIOR PROTECTION w/BANOYL (Fabric has been thoroughly protected. Safeguards your car's interior from oil and water-based stains.)

    - VINYL and LEATHER CONDITIONER (Vinyl and Leather has (sic) been treated to help keep it soft and supple.)


    The retail cost of this Car Care System Package is $995. I did not pay for it.

    My questions are:

    1. How do I know if the protection has actually been placed on the exterior/interior?
    2. Since my Elantra does not have leather, which vinyl parts can I check to see if they've been treated?
    3. If exterior protection has been added, and I can confirm it's actually on the vehicle, when do I apply my first coat of wax on the exterior?
    4. If I treated the interior with Armor All (or similar product), would it cause problems with BANOYL?
    5. I did not receive a Car Care Kit (as shown on the additional sticker). Since I didn't pay for this so-called "kit," should I be concerned?

    Thank you for your comments.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    You might try calling the dealer's service dept (which doesn't know whether you did or did not pay for a Car Care Kit) and ask some of these questions. They were probably the people who applied (or didn't apply) the various treatments to the car, so they should know about waxing, interaction with Armor All etc.

    A few musings:

    * You should be able to tell if the paint protection is there and still working by how water beads (or doesn't) on the surface. When water stops beading, start waxing!

    * I am confused about the BANOYL. It seems as if that is a fabric protector, but you are talking about using Armor All. Does Armor All offer a fabric protector? I'm used to using 3M Scotchgard for that purpose (and it has worked great for me, fwiw). What you could do is use the fabric and/or vinyl protectors of your choice on inconspicuous places (maybe hard to do for the fabric) and see what happens after a few weeks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The Hyundai dealer I trade with has done this since day one. And for each car I have bought from them, I start all negotiations with the removal of the "package" from negotiations. The first time they said "this is already installed and is included on all our cars" I just stood up and said I would go somewhere else that didn't charge $800 for a wax job, because that is all it is. I know what product they are using and finally got a buddy in makeready admit that, labor included, it costs less than $20 a car for the whole package.

    They will make a big deal over the "coverage" that the package extends, but read the fine print carefully and you will find that it actually covers almost nothing, and what it does cover requires that either you provide proof that the "protection system" has been maintained, or you pay the dealer anually to re-apply.

    This has got to be the biggest profit item in the whole deal, short of the finance offices.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Another hefty money maker on sales is window tinting. Typically they charge $500 for window tinting as a dealer-installed option. A friend of a friend does tinting at his glass business, primarily for dealers. The cost? $139 for any car. Dealer Installed Options should be renamed Dealer Profit.

    As for financing... I actually would have to say that was the very best part of the deal when I bought my Elantra. I had financing going in, but the finance guy found a local credit union (which we had previously used for auto financing) with a much lower rate than my pre-approved financing *and* Hyundai's best deal. I told the guy up front no warranties, etc., and he mentioned them in his talk but after paying lip-service because he was required to by the dealership, he moved on quickly. He even got me gap insurance for free by pointing out that I could get a lower interest rate if I got gap that covered the cost of the gap insurance.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Financing a car in the Austin area is easy. The best rates, short of a blow-out manufacturer sponsored program, is Austin Telco FCU. Anyone can join for a one time deposit of $25. Very easy to deal with. Once you have paid off a couple of loans in good fashion and established your reliability, you can call them up, tell them you are going to go buy a whatever, and pretty much get approved on a phone call. Walk into the dealer, make your best deal, then tell them to call the loan officer you deal with and that's it. All the loan paper is done at the credit union in about five minutes. Most of the dealers have to bite the bullet in dealing with them as they do not pay a 'kick-back' to the dealer. They are typically 1/2 point below anyone else.
  • jlflemmons - I am right up I35 from you in the Fort Worth area and I wanted to ask you if you may know if there is a branch located here or can you request a few places in my general area. Thanks sir.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I am afraid I don't do any dealings up in the Dallas metroplex, and Austin Telco is only in the Austin area. To give you an idea of current rates:

    Vehicles - New
    (Cars, Trucks, Boats and RVs)
    24 Mo 4.99%
    36 Mo 5.19%
    48 Mo 5.29%
    60 Mo 5.39%
    66 Mo 5.49%
    72 Mo 5.59%

    Assuming a good credit rating.
  • This is very useful and I appreciate it.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    I'm in Fort Worth and we've used EECU (arranged through two different dealers) to finance new cars at very competitive rates.

    Also, if you're looking ot buy a Hyundai, there are a lot of good Hyundai dealers in the area, for sales, service and warranty work. If you want a little more info, email me and I'll give you my impressions about area dealerships.
  • doohickie - I sent you a email yesterday - let me know if you received it?

  • mxo11mxo11 Posts: 27
    Thanks to compensate (I believe) for the update. Here I am, with my 2002 GT still going (knock on wood). The only problems have been a faulty sensor (when the car was new) and the manifold (also under warranty).
    Anyway... The place where I get the oil changed (the quick-lube section at the dealership) always tests the power steering, brake, and other (are there others?) fluids. Last summer, the PS fluid was not, according to the mechanic, the color it was supposed to be. I had it changed (I thought, that after 6 years, it made sense it needed to be changed). However, a couple of weeks ago, they came up again with the same story. I had it changed again, but I'm starting to wonder if this is not another one of those tricks to have you spend your money on things that are not necessary. Any reason why the power steering fluid would go bad in less than a year?

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    No reason it should go "bad" in 6 years. It never "hurts" to change it either. But yes, they are ripping you off with that story. Here's your sign: If it doesn't specify in the manual under maintenance to change it - you don't have to.
  • 05 Elantra. My wife and I have been driving sticks for 35 years, and if we want to go fast we'll use our G35, not an economy car we got for, well, economy.

    Dealer refused to touch under warranty because we bought the car new from them 2 years ago. Tried to escalate to district or regional rep, but after Hyundai Consumer Affairs telling us they would do so, they turned around and changed their mind.

    Even in the bad old American car days 30 years ago a Chevy or Ford area rep would at least somehow have split the cost of a repair like this.

    Dealer admits there is no sign of racing or abuse, and would not check the flywheel.

    Dealer wants to replace entire clutch assembly for $1200+, about 80% more than our normal local garage.

    Funny thing is, we were out at the dealer a week earlier to look at Sonatas. No more Hyundais for us.

    The best warranty in America is useless to us after 18,000 miles. We'll be telling our friends and relatives to drive by the Hyundai store.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    Very unfortunate response from Hyundai. Here's my story: the clutch on my '01 GLS "broke" at about 40k miles, when my son was driving home from school one day. Hyundai's road service paid for the tow to the dealer. The dealer tore it apart and said the clutch plate has actually broken, and there were no signs of any defects (they said they looked hard for any such sign), so it must have been abused. I was dumbfounded because I drive my cars very carefully, and taught my son to do the same. So I was very suspicious. Then I asked my son and wife (who also drove the car on occasion) if they had ever done a "hard shift" in the car. Both sheepishly admitted that they had done so, a number of times. I knew my wife didn't drive a stick very well, and I had observed my son doing a hard shift a couple of times when I was teaching him how to drive, but I thought he was past that. So it was clear the dealer's analysis was correct. I paid for the $1300 repair.

    My sister, who knows how to drive a stick, owns the car now and loves it.

    Since your dealer admits there are no signs of abuse, why won't they go to bat for you with Hyundai? They'll get reimbursed for warranty work, as long as it's clear the problem is not due to abuse. Their response mystifies me.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm VERY confused! If Hyundai won't back their clutches, hard shifts or not, for their specified 100,000 miles, what good is their warranty? Completely unacceptable to me. I'd fight it, and then if there was no stepping up by Hyundai, I'd sue for breach. Every other company that makes cars will back their car up better than that! At 19,000, there should be just about no abuse that should invalidate that warranty. They're nit-picking, and it should not be tolerated. My car would be parked in the street in front of the driveway of that dealership with a huge Lemon on it, and maybe a picket line as well......and that dealer would be out of business. :lemon:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    If I ran my car into a wall, I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to pay for the damage. If I or another driver of my car abuses it in some other way, which causes damage to the car, I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to pay for that damage. For example, suppose I "forget" to change the oil in the car for 60,000 miles and the engine seizes. Should the manufacturer pay for the damage caused by that abuse? I don't think so. Suppose I am driving down a road at 70 mph and shift into reverse. Should the manufacturer cover that? I don't think so. I guess I have different expectations about what a warranty should cover than you do.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    No, I agree with you on each scenerio you listed, however, that doesn't seem to be the cases stated before. I expect the car to handle some hard, or inexperienced shifts. Not a ton of them, but some, it's gonna happen. Heaven knows rental service will do that to ya.

    I had a 92 Lincoln. A week out of warranty, the engine siezed due to a faulty head gasket. Without even requesting it, Ford stepped up and fixed it free of charge. Was it a defect, you bet. Were they obligated legally to help me, no way. Ethically, I think they were, and they did. For Hyundai to refuse to help at 18,000 miles is unconscionable to me, and I'll quit buying them if this is their act. I buy a ton of Hyundais for customers and friends - and I recommend them, but not if this is what their warranty really means.

    If there is a defect, they should fix it. If there is early failure of a covered component and "obvious or excessive abuse" is not noted, for example as you say, not changing the oil forever, they should fix it. It's a good faith matter to me.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    I agree, if there is a defect, the manufacturer should fix it if the part is under warranty. In the case I described, there was no defect found. Instead, it was clear to me and the dealer that there was obvious and excessive abuse of the clutch, and that caused a part to break. So it looks like we are in agreement.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    When my dad was a service manager, he had a rich kid come in for a clutch problem on a new '65 442. The car also had racing slicks. And the kid's dad got to pony up for a clutch at almost no miles.

    If the clutch in that Elantra barfed at 19K with no abuse, go up the ladder at Hyundai and forget the dealer. I have found that many times a dealer will state 'no warranty' when in fact the manufacturer was never called. The hourly rate to change a part is almost always higher for a customer pay as compared to a warranty pay. So, if a dishonest shop can get paid full retail for parts plus a higher hourly rate they may be tempted to fudge a bit on what the factory said regarding the warranty.
  • I am NOT car saavy, but am trying to not be ripped off. I research, research, research. We just took our 07 Elantra in to the dealer today, to get the speedometer thing done. We also had an oil change while there (15k miles), and asked them about a strange thing with the brakes.

    So the service was done, and we were told they test-drove and could tell what we were talking about with the brakes...that it's not urgent, but the rear brakes "need work."

    What on earth is THAT about? My car is less than a year old, and many, many of the 15k miles (not REALLY 15k you know, though, because of odometer calibration issues) were from looooooong highway-drives. Several roadtrips from NE Ohio to Charleston, SC, Michigan, and Pennsylvania. The brakes were barely used on those trips.

    Help me figure out what is going on!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    What is the "strange thing" the brakes are doing?
  • ronin5ronin5 Posts: 14
    Just a follow up to my bad clutch at 18,000 mile report.

    I phoned Hyundai customer support to request a review by the regional / district manager. The CSR said they would put the escalation request, since even the dealer said there was no sign of abuse.

    Heard back from Hyundai USA. Their regional rep refuses to review it any further, since they phoned the dealer, and the dealer confirmed the clutch lining is 3 months out of the 12-month warranty.

    I've had regional reps from the Big Three work with me when things are out of technical warranty but still are not expected to go bad. The Hyundai dealership admitted that no one expects a cluch to go bad in 18k miles. In such cases, the Big Three would often work on some sort of split cost arrangement on the repair.

    Hyundai USA denies the request even to talk with me. They are not interested.

    I was really a big adherent of the Hyundai, thinking it a good value with a phenomenal warranty. But I can't even get a rep from Hyundai region, district, or HQ to even talk about this with me. Even if for some reason I am 100% at fault, surely a polite chat would not be out of order?

    I can understand when a dealership may be unresponsive, or in this case, wish to pad on extra expenses even to covered drivetrain components. But no one from Hyundai itself?

    These guys at Hyundai USA make the callousness of the Big Three during the 70s seem like first class customer service.
  • Sounds more like the Ford Warrantee (or lack thereof). They (Ford) won't cooperate on things that are obviously longer lasting factory/manufacturing problems if you go over their time limit by even less than a month. ie Fogged headlights that obviously didn't fog overnight. Just look at all of their headlights. Oh well, guess they figure you can afford it more than they can. However, in my case...Ford lost a long time repeat customer with multiple (5) family vehicles, for a retail price of $325 headlight. Yes I am bitter.
    Fortunately, I have not had any problems with Hyundai..yet. With my local dealer, I don't expect any either. Sorry to hear of yours.

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    Try writing the President of Hyundai USA. Be polite but firm. Maybe mention how you have been a loyal Hyundai customer over the years but now you don't see how you can buy another Hyundai product. ;) I did that a few years ago re the "Poor" IIHS frontal offset crash test rsults on the previous-gen Elantra and did get a call from someone at HQ about it. At least they talked to me.
  • Right rear light bulb is toast how do you change it?
  • I have an 05 elantra and cannot figure how to change the tail light bulb. ANy Help??
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Aren't there plastic covers in the trunk/hatch that give access to the bulbs?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.
    2. Remove the cover (A) in the trunk room after removing 2 screws.

    3. Remove the 3 nuts holding the rear combination lamp then disconnect the 6P connector (A).

    4. Remove the rear combination lamp and replace the bulbs; stop & tail lamp (A), turn signal lamp (B), back up lamp (C) and side marker lamp(D).

    5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
  • bjc2bjc2 Posts: 28
    is thier a website i can go to to get a fuse for my electric fuel pump?the
    nerest hyundai dealership from me is forty miles away.
  • Can anyone direct me to step by step instructions on how to change out the water pump on a 2000 Elantra?? Pics would be nice too!!! :)
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    You can buy fuses for the Elantra at any auto parts store.

    It might not be a fuse, though. The engine controller will not turn on power to the fuel pump if certain fuel system sensors are bad. If the car just plain won't start and you are getting spark, you may need to get a new sensor. One of the more common sensors that eventually goes bad is the crankshaft position sensor.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Here are a couple links, including lots of pics for changing out the timing belt on an 02 Elantra. It includes changing out the water pump (and in fact, if you haven't changed that yet, maybe you should).

    first link

    second link
  • mipppsmippps Posts: 1
    I just drove a 2003 Elantra from Utah to Houston which is 1,600 miles.
    I averaged 36.5 mpg. We travelled interstate 10 in south Texas and travelled at 80 mph for hundreds of miles. I was very impressed with the way this car handled at high speed with great mileage. This was a 5 speed stick shift. This car had 57,000 on it when I started out.

  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Great mileage! Make sure you change your timing belt at or before 60,000 miles.
  • daffy1daffy1 Posts: 1
    I recently broke the right side mirror glass on my 2007 Elantra. I have gotten the new glass attached to the plastic backing and need some advice on how to remove the old and install the new. The housing is ok, just the glass needs replacement. It looks like it is a snap out, snap in mirror with terminals for heat. I don't want to start digging until I get some help. Thanks.
  • emdad22emdad22 Posts: 2
    :sick: i have an 02 elantra with 98000mi and my trans just burned out i am looking to do the repair on my own but i was wondering if anyone has any insight as to were i can find a walktrough of sorts for the process. i found a shop manual but it costs $130 and i am on a very tight budget. please help me out with this, it was my only reliable transportation. thank you very much in advance.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    Are you the original owner? If so the car is still covered by the 10-year powertrain warranty.
  • emdad22emdad22 Posts: 2
    no i am not the original owner so unfortunately the warranty does not apply
  • pop124pop124 Posts: 1
    I have just bought a 2000 Elantra GLS from my son. His wife had trouble with the front driver side window dropping. Her father took the door panel off and says that the motor is good it just needs the cable that threads into that door. Does anyone know what that part is called or what I need to buy to replace and fix this door Window? The car is in good condition but this window thing is troubling. Thanks to anyone that might have an answer. If you know where I can find what the part is called and or what it looks like?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds more like the Ford Warrantee (or lack thereof). They (Ford) won't cooperate on things that are obviously longer lasting factory/manufacturing problems if you go over their time limit by even less than a month.

    Not true in my experience - I've had no problem with Hyundai, but had very favorable experience with Ford over the course of decades - from an engine that lost a head gasket at 4 years and 3 months on a Lincoln (Ford stepped up and covered it, no charge whatsoever, no argument even though out of time on warranty) to a truck Ford bought back because of suspension problems, and gave me a brand new in to replace it. So, honestly, I believe a lot of these cases of problems, Ford, Hyundai or anyone else, stems from dealers attitudes. My dealer was stellar at trying to satisfy their customer, and would go to bat for me with Ford every time. If they won't, the Factory Rep is usually not as helpful.

    I'm very disturbed to hear about the Hyundai problem, since I put lots of friends into Hyundais - but personally, have not had such a problem. :blush:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Many of the newer cars use a nylon belt that runs from the motor to the regulator mechanicals. The specific part can be purchased at a Hyundai dealer, or if a portion is still in the door, you may find that the generic belt sold at auto parts stores can be used.
  • Hi,

    I recently had to take my car in to the dealership for the 7500 mile checkup.
    Merely a few days before this visit my car refused to start after turning the ignition. So I left it alone since I HAD to take care of chores. Later in the day I came back and still the same problem but after pumping the gas while turning I was finally able to get the car started.

    I went into the dealer and mentioned this and quickly he said that I'd gotten 'bad gas' and that I needed 'Fuel Injection Service' which cost me a whopping $135 atop the regular 7500 mile service charge.

    So, what could I have done better? I know, I know, under normal circumstances with my older car which I'd gotten rid of already I would've gotten second opinions. But I needed to have my car running for many reasons and these guys managed to put the fear of Warranty problems into me (since this IS my first new car (7 months now)).

    Friendly suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • bjc2bjc2 Posts: 28
    every once in a while my engine just quits on me.when it does,i step down on the
    gas pedal ,let up,and it starts right up and runs fine afterwards.any suggestions
    as to what the problem is?it/s a 2001 elantra.
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