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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mjoshimjoshi Posts: 44
    If in case I need something work to be done at dealer's location and they need to keep car for a day do they provide with loaner ? As per dealer from whom I bought my car he is mentioning following. Is he simply BS'ing to sell me extended warranty ?

    "And please don't forget, while you have the vehicle, you still have the benefit of the immediate loaner vehicle in the event you have ANYTHING wrong with the vehicle. You will not have this benefit if you cancel the policy".
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    In my experience with multiple Hyundai dealers, providing a free loaner for service work is at the discretion of the dealer. Some in my area do it (even w/o an extended warranty), some don't. So you might check around to see if some dealers in your area provide free loaners. Realistically, this is only important if your car has to be kept for awhiile, e.g. a major service like 60k or a major problem.
  • lonflonf Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Elantra with about 90K on it. When it gets up to normal running temperature it stalls when it should idle, if it stalls it needs to sit and cool down from 10 minutes to an hour. As long as I keep the RPMs up it runs fine. One other thing that's probably related as it comes up to normal temperature the engine misses three times (like the ignition or fuel system is cutting off momentarily. Any ideas?
  • churcherchurcher Posts: 1
    Hyundai Elantra 2000 GLS temperature related ignition control problem

    Can anybody help me with a curious problem with the ignition/control system on my Elantra that started immediately after a visit to the dealer for a dealer recall and routine service?

    First the symptoms: I live in deep south Texas where the land is flat as a pancake and there is a nice 10 mile stretch of four lane divided highway close by that we have been using as a 20 mile test track. The only “hills” are four overpasses.
    1) The car starts easily and getting on to the test track we accelerate up to the posted 70 mph and engage the cruise control. For the first 20 minutes the car behaves perfectly. The throttle position on level road is about one third.
    2) After about 20 minutes at the next overpass when the cruise control asks for more throttle the car appears to hesitate as though it was miss firing. As soon as the throttle demand goes away the hesitations go away.
    3) On the following overpass the hesitations are more severe and engine rpm drops. The transmission shifts down and when the hesitation goes away the rpm screams as the power comes back on. This all repeated about once a second with ride becoming increasingly jerky Not wanting to trash the transmission I disconnect the cruise control
    4) At this point the engine will accept up to about half throttle before the hesitations start. Beyond half throttle the engine appears to die for may be half a second before the power comes back on briefly in a die/return, die/return cycle.
    5) Over the next 30 minutes the useable throttle range decreases to the point where any throttle beyond idle causes it to die and then finally it won’t even idle.
    6) If the car is allowed to rest and recover its sense of humor (or more likely to simply cool down) the whole one hour process can be repeated

    What the dealer did before the problem started
    1) Routine 50,000 mile service
    2) Installed a new timing belt
    3) The dealer recall was to lengthen the harness pigtail to the Mass Air Sensor

    What we have done to attempt to rectify the problem
    1) Checked all electrical and hose connections
    2) The engine starts throwing error codes as the problem develops. Trouble is it throws too many codes apparently randomly. Using the codes as guidance, we have replaced:
    a. The TPS (throttle position Sensor)
    b. The ECM (Electronic Control Module)
    c. The MAS (Mass Air Sensor)
    3) Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filters
    4) Cleaned the fuel system

    We think we may be looking for an ignition/control system component that goes bad when it gets too hot.

    What do you think?

    Thanks

    Archie
  • lena12lena12 Posts: 7
    I'm not sure if the noise I'm hearing might be part of the 'breaking in process' for a new car. I'm a recent owner of a new Elantra SE automatic. I've noticed that it makes a sort of creaking/groaning noise when I turn the steering wheel (in either reverse or drive) mainly while parking the car, or coming out of a parallel space. While in the drivers seat it sort of sounds as if it's in the front and back tire area and could be in response to the turning of the wheel. When I got out of the car to listen and let my boyfriend mimic the maneuvers, I didn't hear the noises at first from the outside, but then I did. We are planning to bring the car in to the dealership just to have them take a listen, but was wondering if someone might have an idea, has experienced the same thing, and can provide some insight.Am I making a big deal out of nothing, or might this be a potential problem? Thanks!
  • worldlyworldly Posts: 23
    I own a 2008 Elantra. I have NOT noticed such a sound, but when I drive today, I'll roll down my windows and listen carefully. If I notice something significant, I'll post it. I think it's wise to have the dealership take a look.
  • lena12lena12 Posts: 7
    Thanks for your reply. It's a pretty obvious sound when I am in the car with the windows rolled up (stereo not on) that I have only heard while parallel parking and pulling out of spaces, so if you haven't noticed it, your car most likely doesn't have the same 'problem'. Lucky you! We will be checking it out this weekend.
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    If the dealer caused this problem, you should bring it back to them. Its posible that they made an error doing the service or the recall. What you describe is one of the symptoms of a MAF (mass airflow) sensor problem. If they made an error, throwing parts will not fix the problem. Good luck.
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    If this happens after vehicle has sat for a while (like overnight) your problem may be carbon build up in the engine. What happens is when you first start the engine, injected fuel is absorbed by the carbon build up during the first few seconds of engine starting. Engine sputters or dies. Have your mechanic Decarb the engine. It should be fine after that otherwise its something else. If it works., avoid using cheap gas. Use only TOP TIER certified gas. Goggle top tier gas so you will understand. Good luck.
  • kimmers2kimmers2 Posts: 1
    Hi, I believe the glue that holds the window has come loose. I had a problem with this when it was under warranty about a year ago and had it fixed. I seem to remember them saying that it was glue or silicone? A few days ago the driver window let go and does not close or open properly then within two days the passenger goes. Is this something my boyfriend and I can fix? I had a look through the forum to see if there were any related posts but didnt see anything that described what I need to do. If we can fix it does anyone have instructions and what glue/silicone is used and where to get it. Thanks soooo much in advance to anyone that responds.
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    Its possible that what you are hearing is the noise coming from the motor of the electric power steering. I bought a 2008 Elantra 3 weeks ago and that is what I hear. The noise however sounds more of a whining sound similar to a dentist drill. You could easily duplicate the sound by quickly turning the steering wheel left and right several times. This is the same noise I also hear from Mazda 3 vehicles. This is normal noises coming from the electric power steering and it will not go away. If you say it is a groaning/creaking sound then its time to take it to your dealer.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Not sure about the glue used, but assuming that is all that has happened, you might check with a local auto glass shop and see what they would charge to do the repair. This is something they see regularly and would have the correct adhesives and expertise to do it quickly and correctly.
  • lena12lena12 Posts: 7
    We took the car in (to a Hyundai dealer closer to where I live just so they could have a looksy, not where I bought the car - we were planning to take it there this weekend if service station closer to us told us something drastic) and wouldn't you know that car didn't have a sound to make whatsoever! We attempted to mimic the maneuvers, drove around with a mechanic, and NOTHING. The mechanic did mention that since it is a new car and since we don't drive it every day (we live in a large city and use public transport to commute to work), it might tend to make a couple of little sounds at first, but once the car is out on the road, it's fine. This seemed to be the case. I think the car just likes to be driven. And this is fine for me because I like to drive it! Thanks to all for your responses.
  • my2002gtmy2002gt Posts: 7
    Thought I'd "vent" a bit and share my service experience at Intermountain Hyundai in SLC, UT. Took the car in to have the parking brake looked at. Problem was the brake would not engage and hold the car. I had checked the rear pads, adjusted the brake cable at the brake handle/rear of center console. I determined the problem was in the disc brake caliper. Something had seized up. Took it to the dealer. They told me the p-brake just needed adjusting and charged me $30. I was skeptical and rightly so. When I picked up the car the p-brake was so tight the car would struggle to move. I didn't even leave the service parking lot. Went back in and told the guy the p-brake is now adjusted way to tight. This happened three times within 45 minutes! Each time I had to go back in and tell them, "this is still not right". Finally after nearly two more hours, the service writer says, "Looks like the brake caliper is seized up". Duh! I'm miffed 'cuz they charged me 30 bucks for a bogus adjustment and tried to send me on my way THREE TIMES with a malfunctioning parking brake! Now, the caliper will be covered under warranty but I'm not quite done yet. I asked the service writer for a refund of the $30 bogus adjustment charge. He says, "How 'bout we pay for a rental car for a day until the warranty repair is done instead of give you a refund?" I'm thinking, fine. I had wasted enough time. Then I realized when I got home that what he had offered me with the rental was something I was already entitled to under the terms of the Hyundai Warranty Contract! I find it hard to believe that this service writer didn't already know that. I will be demanding a refund of the adjustment fee when I pick up the car today. OK. Done venting. Man, you really gotta stay on your toes with these guys. :mad:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    You must have a special warranty. To my knowledge, service rental cars are not included in the standard Hyundai warranty. That is at the discretion of the dealership--some provide them, some don't. Also, did you purchase the car after June 2003? Otherwise the bumper-to-bumper warranty would have expired, and brake components would not be covered.
  • my2002gtmy2002gt Posts: 7
    I purchased the car new in June 2002. I also purchased Hyundai's Advantage Plus coverage option 4B. Option 4B extended the basic 5y/60,000 mile "bumper to bumper" new car limited warranty to 10y/100,000 mile "bumper to bumper" new car limited warranty and does provide for up to 4 days of cheap car rental coverage while warranty repairs are done. Otherwise, you are correct. There would have been no coverage for the brake caliper or the rental car as I am now in my 6th year of ownership. See the following link:

    http://www.hyundaiusa.com/global/contactus/faq_warranty.aspx
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    Then if I were you I'd find another dealer to service my car--if that is an option for you.
  • my2002gtmy2002gt Posts: 7
    Yup. I've already come to that conclusion myself. There are two other options within a reasonable distance. I bought the car at Intermountain Hyundai but, I don't plan on returning to the Intermountain Hyundai Service Counter anytime soon. The car has been great for the past 6 years. This is really the only problem I've had with it other than having the rear hatch gas prop rods replaced under warranty a few years ago. You'd think a certified tech. would put an issue like a p-brake to rest pretty quick. How tough can it be to put the car on a rack, apply the brake and see if the wheels can be turned? Then release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely? Anyway, I'm suppose to pickup the car this evening. We'll see how they've done with the new caliper.
  • nareknarek Posts: 37
    My new SE passed the 600 mile/break-in period today. I read in the manual that the first oil change should happen at 7,500 miles, or 3,000 miles under severe use. My husband thinks we should have the first one done now. The first 600 miles were about 250 highway and 350 stop & go, low speed driving. Due to the nature of my job, many of my miles will be at lower speeds with many short stops.

    Any comments on the timing of a first oil change under these conditions?
  • my2002gtmy2002gt Posts: 7
    Some might say it's a good idea to change the oil in a new engine after the break-in period. Certainly won't hurt if you choose to do so. Oil change intervals have been debated for years. My high school auto shop teacher use to say he'd change the oil when it "felt" dirty or "smelled" dirty. I never really picked up that talent. So for me, I've generally split the difference on the miles from most manufacture's recommended change intervals which are what you have stated - being 3,000 to 7,500. Meaning, I generally change oil in my vehicles at about 4,000 miles or six months - which ever comes first. I'd classify most of our driving as city driving, mostly stop and go with an occasional short highway trip (15-20 miles). Never had an engine problem or failure of any kind and I'm in my 50's. Just got rid of a '89 Mazda with over 240,000 miles on it and have had other cars and trucks with up to 150,000+ miles without any engine-oil related problems. So, This schedule seems to work for us. I believe you'd still be on safe ground in regards to warranty as well but, Hyundai can be pretty nasty about warranty issues sometimes. Good Luck with the new car!
  • nareknarek Posts: 37
    Thanks for the the reply. My husband also came from the same 'school' as you. Every 4000 miles or 6 months he changes the oil in our vehicles. It has served us well, as we tend to keep all our vehicles until repair costs outweight the value of the vehicle. Last one that went to the junkyard had just turned 300,000 miles and was still running strong. That van idled so smoothly you hardly heard it when stopped. The original transmission finally went on it. That van never cost us anything but oil, filters, brakes, tires, belts, U-joints and one A/C compressor. :)

    I think we're going to go with changing the oil every 3,000 miles on the Elantra. I'm already near the 1,000 mi mark, so we'll wait to do the first change in another month or so. It won't take me long to get to 3,000.
  • ctc1ctc1 Posts: 66
    Just bought a 08 Elantra SE and in the quick reference guide it says to inspect timing belt at 60k and replace at 90k. Has hyundai upgraded their timing belts.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    That could be, or is NJ one of those states (like CA) that prohibits manufacturers from requiring a timing belt replacement at 60k? Does it say anything about specific states in the maintenance schedule?
  • ctc1ctc1 Posts: 66
    It's not state specific, also see that most other maintenance item have also been extended, such as trans fluid and coolant. Good news for cost to own and concerns on warranty claims.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    It always did seem odd that the engine had a timing belt change interval of 60K in 49 states, and 100K in California on the '05 model (same engine). Maybe the belt is more mellow on the west coast???

    :shades:
  • topfuel20topfuel20 Posts: 1
    You might never see this reply but I just had the very same problem with my 2001 Elantra. I was completely at a loss to figure out what was going on and decided to plough through the net for an answer. Straight away I discovered your problem and the reply and went straight to it on my car. All fixed in an instant. I feel like an idiot but I had no idea the fuse box was behind the tray. Thanks :mad: :surprise:
  • my2002gtmy2002gt Posts: 7
    Just a quick follow-up on my parking brake repair experience. It took two trips to the Riverton Suzuki/Hyundai Dealership. The first time they replaced brake cables (both sides) but they neglected to test the repair while the car was still on the rack 'cuz with the rear wheels off the ground and the parking brake fully applied the passenger side still spun freely. Second time in they did replace the passenger side caliper. Both cables and the new caliper were covered completely under the 4B extended warranty I purchased. Now I must say these folks were MUCH easier to deal with and INFINITELY more courteous and trustworthy than the folks I dealt with at Intermountain Hyundai. So, if you're ever in the Salt Lake Valley and in need of service, stay away from Intermountain. Riverton Hyundai is a bit more of a drive for me but well worth it. :)
  • nihao4587nihao4587 Posts: 43
    Howdy everybody,

    I would like to have the pleasure to report my '02 GT (5-door) AT is doing well so far after 6-year of ownership.

    It is currently at 55K miles and I just had 60K service (480), new battery (95), RR brake light (5) and rear brake pads (210) replaced at local dealers. The front pads still have 40% left and should last till 90K service (at which point I will have to spend over 400 for timing belt here in CA).

    Except some trim issues, such as the black tapes on the doors, fixed under warranty early on, my car has not failed on me, not even once. Besides new tires at 35K, all other parts are still original unless mentioned above.

    I bought Hyundai oil filter and washer online and used them when doing oil change at local shops. But always try to get the major things done at the dealer so that no BS later on should anything weird happens.

    Overall, I really like the reliability and utility of this car.
  • ez888ez888 Posts: 39
    good to hear. its always nice to hear about cars performing well and meeting or exceeding expectations!

    just curious about what's included at the 60K service? almost $500 is a pretty penny to spend.
  • nihao4587nihao4587 Posts: 43
    Yep, I agree with you totally. The price is kinda high. But that is the best one I got after calling around (there are about 5 Hyundai dealerships around san francisco bay area), which happens to be where I purchased mine originally. The one that is closest to where I live quoted nearly 700 for the exact same service, go figure.

    The 60K service is basically all factory required stuff (I opted out all the fancy stuff the dealer recommended), such as all fluids, filters, and check-ups. I skipped tire-rotation since I have that with america's tire. Timing belt is another 400+ which I chose not to do at this time (it is warrantied till 90K in CA although dealer did push me a little to do it with 60K service).

    Yeah, since price for everything is inflated, it is not unusual to see the service expense gone up ( I remotely remember the 60K service only cost 300 about 3 years ago with the same dealer).

    Good luck.
  • kentavos22kentavos22 Posts: 13
    I have an 02 GT with about 136,000 miles on it. I did the timing belt at 110,000 which is about 10,000 miles short of when I normally see the timing belt go.

    As far as the 60k service, I'd probably hesitate before doing it. Like I said, I have 136,000 miles on my car and it's still going strong. I live about 45 minutes away from the nearest Hyundai dealer so I do most of my own work and avoid the suggested services.

    I've had to do routine stuff like brakes, tires, oils, wipers, headlights and battery. Beyond that, the only other work has been a timing belt and the clutch. The clutch was expensive, but I'm not surprised at it happening after 130,000 miles.

    In other words, I'm not sure what the 60k service is going to do that will be worth $500.00.
  • bjc2bjc2 Posts: 28
    anyone know where the pcv valve is located in a 2001 elantra engine?
    thanks/
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Should plug into the valve cover at the front of the engine.

    visiting host
  • bjc2bjc2 Posts: 28
    thanks mr. shiftright .
  • I have a 1999 Elantra and for the past few months it has been accelerating slow at stop signs/lights. Occassionally, it drives fine, but usually if I have to come to a complete stop it does not have any acceleration until it reaches 25-35mph. I can have my foot all the down on the gas and it will just go. It is especially bad if I am at a bottom a hill trying to go.

    The check engine light is on. I forget the exact codes, but basically there is a vacuum leak somewhere and I cannot find it. It recently had an emmisions test and passed but the CO2 reading was in the 300s. Is that normal?

    It had its tranny worked on twice within the 1st 5 years I had the car and has never driven as smoothly as my family's same exact elantra.

    Any thoughts of what it could be? It is really starting to annoy me as today I was holding up traffic.
  • bjc2bjc2 Posts: 28
    i had the same problem with my 2001 elantra about a year ago.it would/nt shift
    into first gear.i took it to my nearest hyundai dealer and they replaced a sensor
    on the transmission.it was fine after that . that might be the problem.good luck.
  • Correction: the timing belt IS NOT warrantied til 90K in Calif. It is recommended that the belt be changed at 90K.
    Belt covered in the initial 5yr bumper to bumper warranty, but not in the 10yr/100k mile warranty.
  • dria24dria24 Posts: 32
    hello,
    I have a 2001 elantra with 140,000 miles, its runs good, having problems with my check engine light, my mechanic says it now the AVAP system( anyone heard of this) the code reads 458 "very small leak" emission. he says there appears to be a small leak in the gas fuel system where there are two sensors and one canister, one of them has a pin hole. My check engine light will come on stay on for a couple of days then go off for about 5- 7 weeks, then return, when I fill my tank I always cut off the engine and use 89 octane gas. the car runs good, pickup is fine, in the past when the light come on there were different codes that we had fix. Does anyone know about this, the cost, and where parts can be obtained. I live in NYC and he is going to charge approx. $300.00 for repair which includes changing the two sensors and the canister, since you don't know which one has the hole. Please give me some insight on this problem asap.
    much thanks :confuse: :cry: :P
  • dria24dria24 Posts: 32
    hello
    can you tell me how my front headlights beams can be adjusted, they are too low.
    thanks
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    Universal DTC (diagnostic trouble code) for a very small leak is P0456 not 458. Your EVAP system has a leak/hole of about .02 inch. The fuel system is a sealed system to prevent fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. Fuel vapors are stored in the charcoal canister then later drawn/purged into the engine for combustion.

    This could be as simple as a leaking gas cap or problems with the various components of the EVAP system. Replacing the two sensors and the charcoal canister will not guarranty a complete fix. The leak can be anywhere from a damage filler pipe to leaking vapor lines and sensors. Your best bet is to bring it to HYUNDAI as they have the proper tool to find the leak or you could try replacing the gas cap first and making sure that gas cap is properly tightened after every gas fill up. Good luck.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    The first thing to do if you have a small leak is to replace your gas cap.
  • My signal and hazard lights don't work and i need 2 replace the flasher on a 1998 Hyndai Elantra. Where is it located?
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    Hyundai online service indicates Flasher Unit is located at the passenger compartment relay box. May I know how did you arrive at this diagnosis. If you know how to read electrical diagrams, I can email you the turn/hazard lamps schematics direct from Hyundai website.
  • That would be great if u would email me the schematics. realy would help out a lot! Thanx guy!
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    Need your email address.
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    Mail is on the way.
  • thanx!!!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Please do not post telephone numbers - the post was removed.
  • gomst1gomst1 Posts: 58
    Kennie

    If you go to Body Electrical > Wiring > Main Harness it shows you a picture/location of the passenger compartment relay box. Hope that helps.
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