Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I now have 16,033 miles on it and from what the dealer has told me where it was sold new it had all of its services up till 15,000 miles according to their service schedule.
I went to the local Honda dealer and asked what the next service should be ? And was told a 3 year/60,000 mile service should be preformed on it to the tune of $355.24 I found this very odd. Is this the proper procedure ????
On their service menu it was the most expensive service they offer.
If you were in my position what type of maintence should be preformed at this age and mileage of the vehicle ???
This 'baby' looks and drives like BRAND NEW ! And has Leather seats to boot !!! Dealer had em installed. Plus alloy wheels and a roof rack ! This CRV is very very sweet !!!!!
Also should i ask the dealer about the A.C > compressor issue i have been reading about ??? Or call Honda America to see if they will do anything about the AC compressor issue, it seems like most of the compressors are going out around 50,000 miles or so !
With the mileage i drive it may take me 3 to 4 years to get there
Thanks for any info :-)
A sweet CR-V like yours should have come with the OWNER's MANUAL. In the back there are two service schedules, one for Normal and one for Severe driving. Read what defines Normal and what Defines SEvere driving and then match the years or miles to the years or miles of your vehicle and go by that.
Dealer will always try to sell you stuff that you may not need, because service departments is where the dealership makes most of their money.
Happy Reading!
I read a lot. Almost every post you've made you tell people to READ THE OWNERS MANUAL.
Besides being rather annoying, I think you missed the point. People write questions on here (I'm sure many of them seem dumb to you) because they want to hear what other owners have experienced- and you can't get that out of a book.
Anyone can read the manual... DUH.
A more helpful reply could have simply been to answer her question... Something along the line of "I don't think the 3/60k service is necessary yet" or "$355 is too much."
If all you're going to do is tell people to read the manual, then at least be more of a smarty pants and tell them what the applicable pages are.
Anyone else agree?
No. Pointing someone in the direction of something that should be read anyway is good advice. Telling them the applicable pages is just a waste of time.
Matt
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
The total cost i.e. on my 04 up to 3 years 30,000 miles would run approx $487.61 not including whatever they may find that is needed above and beyond !!!!
Hope this Helps I really do enjoy the 04 CRV LX 2WD that i purchased, the more I drive it the more I "Like it "
And like i was sharing in my first post i found one with only 13,853 or so miles on it !!!! Its still looks and drives "Brand New" (what a find)
Can anyone else tell us what they needed on their CRV other than routine maintence for the 1st 30,000 miles ???
I read a lot. Almost every post you've made you tell people to READ THE OWNERS MANUAL.
Besides being rather annoying, I think you missed the point. People write questions on here (I'm sure many of them seem dumb to you) because they want to hear what other owners have experienced- and you can't get that out of a book.
Anyone can read the manual... DUH.
A more helpful reply could have simply been to answer her question... Something along the line of "I don't think the 3/60k service is necessary yet" or "$355 is too much."
If all you're going to do is tell people to read the manual, then at least be more of a smarty pants and tell them what the applicable pages are.
Anyone else agree?
Why not make it even easier and just tell them what they need instead of pointing to them the locaiton of information. (sarcasm)
The reason I preach the manual is because 90% of the questions asked on these boards are already answered in the manual. There is a reason why manufacturers spend millions of dollars writing and publishing these manuals.
Yes, I agree that people maybe interested in hearing what others have done BESIDES what the manual recommends. Then, the question should be addressed as such.
The OWNERs MANUAL is not always the gospel one should go by, but, in the least, one should know what the manual states. (Gen 1.5 valve lash adjustment intervals were wrong, Gen 2 and and 2.5 has erroenous DPF service intervals). But, if one knows exactly what is written in the OWNER's MANUAL, the one can easily argue with Honda over who pays for damages due to wrong information in the manual
Real life case 1: If Honda said in the manual not to adjust the valves until 90,000 miles on Gen 1.5, and the valves burned at 70,000 miles, one can argue that Honda is on the hook. but if one is clueles what the manual said, then he/she will end up paying $3000 for the new head.
Real life case 2: Honda published 60,000 mile DPF service on Gen 2 and 2.5. I told co-worker, whose vehicle developed "the groan" at 17,000 miles to go to Honda nad have them service it. He was asked to pay, because the schedule at the dealer listed DPF service at 15,000 miles. I smaked him on the head and pointed out that the OWNER's MANUAL stated 60,000 mile service interval. Had he known tha at the time he was presented with the bill, he would have successfully argued that it should have been done for free, since it is not scheduled service.
Besides, with the question asked here, OP did not state whether the driving conditions involve extremely hot or extremeley cold weather, short or long trips, whether OP uses the vehicle to tow, or haul stuff... So, how can one give any direction to a poster that did not include such essential information? OP knows exactly what conditions his/her vehicle encounters and can easily match those conditions to what the MANUAL recommends.
On my 99 CRV, nothing was needed other than the recommended maintenance as listed in the owner's manual. Even the original tires, battery, and brakes made it through that stage.
It,s up to you if you want this done, I wouldn't.
Although, I usually advocate the Owner's Manual... Reading the manual and then asking questions is better than not reading it at all and expecting someone to give you answers...
I would change the DPF (Honda Only!!!) and, if you have Automatic tranny, ATF (Honda only!!)at 15,000 mile intervals. The fluids are cheap (less than $4/qt), and easy to replace on a Honda. If you get DPF-II, then it can probably stay in there for 30,000 miles.
Brake fluid needs to be replaced every 3 years, regardless of mileage.
Power steering fluid (Honda Only!!!) and coolant (Honda Only!!!),if you have blue coolant, can stay there up to 5 years, I believe.
Brake slider pins and pads edges need to be lubricated with Molykote-77 every spring, if you live in the "rust belt"
Replace air filter and cabin filters once a year, or every 15,000 miles.
Change oil (specified grade, "thicker" oils are not better!!!) every 5,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.
Properly maintained Honda will reward you with years and years of faithful service.
I'd recommend doing exactly what you're doing now. Start with the owner's manual but rely on other's experiences here and other fora. Good post just prior to this by blueiedgod.
While at the dealer I was informed that only the dealer can reset the system because it is electronic. I was told this was a free service while the car was under the warrany. Does this mean after 3 years (I have only the standard warranty) I would really have to pay to reset the system? I'm not happy that I would have to pay for something I have no control of (and the dealer suggested I should check/inflate tires monthly - does anyone really do that??).I would have to leave my car with the dealer because they didn't have time to do it immediately this afternoon and I assume that will be a common issue. Am I going to lose use of my car one day a quarter (estimate) so they can reset the system? Or should I just check the tires myself and ignore the indicator to save myself time? I was just curious to know if this sounded right or if anyone had suggestions with coping with the low tire indicator. I really only expected to see it when a tire was leaking, which may be the case. Also my tires were far from the 10-15 psi difference that should set off the indicator.
Thanks for any guidance in advance!
For the last two Fall seasons, the light comes on when the temperature drops. The light should go out once air has been put in the tire and the car is restarted. In fact, this is really the only time I ever put air in my tires. (This is usually done when I get my oil changed an other maintenance services.)
I'm not sure why service departments don't seem to understand that checking your car in for service is a hassle. Just because there's no payment doesn't mean that you can afford to just drop by for several hours!
Sorry, blueiedgod, but your famous 'read the manual' thunder has already been taken. hahaha
If anyone has more info on how Honda operates their policy for resetting the TPMS - that would be great. I'm still going to run it by the dealer later tonight to make sure a sensor isn't malfunctioning. Sounds like this will just be an annoyance when it gets cold.
One other thing, my disc brakes on the driver side have lots of rust on the edges. (looks like a disc but might be the rotor?) The dealer said this was normal and that any grinding I may hear (but don't yet) would be the sound of the rust wearing away. It's only on one side so it seems a bit odd.
Only reset by the dealer if the TPMS does not go out.
The Honda TPMS are some times prone to go on for no reason
just deflate a little then inflate to the proper pressure and the TPMS should go off.
I think you answered your own question... If warranty booklet specifically states alignment is not covered AFTER 1 year or 12K... You state that you have now owned your "V" less than a year & have less than 5K miles... Than "no" you should not have to pay. Good Luck to you
1. Whenever I get home from work (12 miles of driving one-way with freeway and local), I can sense a burning smell after I step out of my car. I cannot sense this burning smell inside my car, and I have never sensed this burning smell before. The burning smell does not smell like burning rubber, rotten eggs, old gym locker room, etc. I cannot tell what kind of burn is that. I haven't brought my car to the dealer for this problem yet. Any idea what's wrong with the burning smell?
2. In my last visit to dealer, they told me that both sides of the rear trailing bushings had some cracks on them and recommended to replace them for $660. I haven't noticed any vibration or noise from my car.
a) If I do NOT replace the cracked bushings, will the cracks on bushings cause any permanent, serious problems to my car in the future?
b) For $660 to replace both the rear trailing arm bushings, is it a rip-off?
Thanks,
I live in northern California , in the East (San Francisco) Bay Area -- weather wise it gets to lowest to 30 and highest up to 105 ...only rains, never snows....
...I have an 07 CRV EX AWD and would like to ask 2 questions...
1)the manual states to use 5W-20 Motor Oil....Can I use Mobil 1 5W-30 Synthetic Oil or should I stick with the recommended weight of 5W-20?
2)Are there any other brands of Synthetic Oil others have used and are fond of?
Thanks in advanced
I suspected the tires and replaced each tire with the spare one at a time, but no change.
I bought it last November and has 9,000 miles now.
I hate to take the car to a dealer just for this problem unless I really have to since I'll most likely have to leave the car overnight.
BTW, probably not related to this, but I cannot get better than 23.5 m/g no matter how I drive (city/highway combined)
Any help will be appreciated.
I'm doubtful that 5w-30 oil in mild California weather would make much of a difference. But, I guess, the question should be "Why not follow Honda's recommendation?" What's the gain here? Is the slight cost difference worth the risk?
Purchased a 2007 CR-V in June. Today (11/2/07) it has 7200 miles and it's oil life is 30 percent. Do I need to change the oil now or can I wait until maintenance "wrench lite" minder comes on? Thanks.
I'm aware of problems associated with the rear differential, but I noticed my problem within several days of driving with only about 100 miles.
BTW, the tires are BFGoodrich Traction T/A Specs.
I'm thinking of swapping four tires with my wife's 00 Oddy which has the same zise wheels and tire - any thought on this?
Is there a way to make sure the oil change shop put 5W20 not 5W30?
And If 5W30 was put (by mistake or cheating), will it be just a matter of lower gas mile or will there be a mechanical problem?
I live in Chicago area.
Short sending the oil to a test lab, I doubt it. Are Chicago area oil change shops known to be dishonest? (Just joking)
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. I still think the change was mostly to capture a slight gain on the EPA mileage test.
They researched it and say the reason for the lighter weight is Honda's self-adjusting valves. If you know engines, you realize that's getting into some awfully sophisticated stuff. The weight difference in the oil is enough to throw off the correct adjustment for the valves. Who'd'a-thunk?
If there is a question to the integrity of the oil change shop, then I wouldn't go there again. As for the 5W30, I doubt there will be much of a problem, especially now that it is winter and it's the "5W" part of the 5W20 that matters.
In the past several months I've noticed fumes seeping in anyway, whereas when it was new, there would be none. A few months ago I had the cabin filters changed, but it didn't help.
Could this be a seal or gasket that needs to be replaced? If so, what do I need to tell the mechanic needs replacing? Or is this an in-dash DIY? (I put in the tweeters in the dash, so I'm moderately capable)
I did have another cold morning issue though. Temps around 30 degrees. Unlocked the rear hatch, but when I opened it, I could hear the motor trying over and over to continue to unlock.
Further, when I went to close it, it didn't want to latch. Had to shut it several times before it latched. Seems like the cold weather was affecting the rear hatch latch and locking mechanism. Strange since it was only 30 degrees (with frost).
Wonder what new fun things even colder weather will bring for the CRV!!
my car is relatively new 11500 Mile(s), went to dealer to check up, he suggested for differential fluid change/refilled.
He said fluid is on back order & will replace in 2/3 week.
(is it recommended to drive till that point ?)
What is the cause of this problem, is it common ?
if not what should i care in future to prevent it to happen?
thanks
Mojo...
Has anyone else noticed this or experienced this?
sorry i can't find the actual TSB for the earlier model years.
when i was searching, i came across this for a range of japanese made '07s:
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-021.PDF
thanks in advance