Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

theracoon

First - when are we supposed to get the first oil change? My new '04 EX has 2250 miles on it.

Your Owners Manual has the definitive answer: 5000 miles for "severe" conditions, 10,000 miles for "normal" conditions. The Owners Manual specifically recommends that you do not have the first oil change done until the service interval (ie don't change it early). The Owners Manual also defines "severe" and "normal" conditions. The only thing it will hurt by changing it more often is your bank account. ;D

The oil change intervals for the 1st Gen CR-Vs (1997-2001) were 3750/7500 miles.

Fifth - I just went on my first road trip of about 600 miles with the CRV. I get about 24 mpg around town with some faster driving thrown in. This trip I got 29.2 mpg on the hwy. with a combination of 65 and 75 mph. I am thrilled with that......just as good as my Altima was.

I usually get 28 MPG in my '99 EX on the highway, with the best every single tank of slightly over 31 MPG driving at 55-60 MPH. Congratulations on great mileage in your CR-V!

autosaurus

wow.. i am jealouse..all my driving is interstate .. and I rarely get above 21mpg...not only does my CRV rattle like crazy but it's milage is horrible!

I'm wondering if East Coast CRV's (made in England) perform differently than those made in Japan!

kyfdx

That is great gas mileage... Mine varies from 22MPG when I am pounding it normally, to about 25.5 MPG if I really try to milk it.. Even with all interstate, 29 MPG is fantastic on a 2nd Gen CR-V.

Your dealer tells you 3500 miles for oil changes, so they can make more money...

For your type of driving, 10K oil changes according to the manual should be fine... If that bothers you to wait that long, then an extra one every 5K is only $30.

regards,
kyfdx

drive62

Since it was never about the money I wonder what about the settlement "truly" satisfied Sabrina?

kathgip

Since I am not a "car buff", I am at the mercy of what I am told by the service "advisors" at the dealership. It is nice to know that I can ask you all a question and get a reasonable, intelligent, and reliable response. I will wait until the 5000 mile mark for my first oil change, which should be about Nov. BTW, does cold weather make any difference in how often you service the car? We live in the NW and our weather is very mild in the winter, so I don't think this should be an issue.

As to cost of my oil change......the first one is free. And the subsequent ones are $21.95. Our Honda dealer really wants owners to get service done at the dealership. And that is cheaper than Jiffy Lube in my small town or Oil Can Henry's in my small town.

It is fun to imagine what you all look like and whether you are old or young, male or female, and where in the US you all live. (No doubt you are all younger than I am, since I am a 51 year old female). I sure am learning a lot and really appreciate all your kindnesses.

Thanks

theracoon

BTW, does cold weather make any difference in how often you service the car? We live in the NW and our weather is very mild in the winter, so I don't think this should be an issue.

It does matter when choosing between the "severe" and "normal" service intervals (Honda recommends the "severe" schedule for Canadian owners), but if you'll be using the 5,000 mile intervals then you're following the "severe" schedule and will be fine.

stevedebi

"some answers. And I am counting on your good info.

First - when are we supposed to get the first oil change? My new '04 EX has 2250 miles on it. I have heard anywhere from 3500 miles (from my Honda dealer) to 5000 miles, to 7500 miles."

The hondacars.com website explains that the factory oil has an additive that is supposed to help break in the engine. They recommend waiting as long as possible before the first change. I did mine at 7500, and every 5000 after that. The website information matches what my dealer told me.

ateixeira

Honda dealer really wants owners to get service done at the dealership

Note that they cannot require you to do it there due to the Magnussen-Moss Warranty Act. Actually they could, but only if they provide the service free of charge.

-juice

julia

Kathgip
Your MPG is much higher than mine. My first two tank is ~20mPG around the town at 35 to 40mph road mostly. The 3rd tank I got 26.01 MPG. That was a long trip I drove to Beach with cruse mostly at 60 to 65mph.
It seems the performance/quality seems very much different between car to car. My car is Japan build too per VIN (the road noise is very high).

Kathgip, I have two questions on my CR-V, whether you or anyone has some information on that:
(1) I hear a lot of noise sounds like "din, din" every time I stopped my car after driving. It sounds like water drip from pipes under the car. It continues for a couple minutes. It was first noticed when I parked into my garage (as it is quite). I checked under the car, no leakage. Do not know where it comes from.
(2) There are rusty on the round (look like Stainless steel) disc which connect to the front wheels for both side. The one connect to rear wheel is coated with black color.

I appreciate any information on that.

ateixeira

The first is probably metal contracting as it cools. Probably heat shields and parts of the exhaust, but routine.

On the front, you're seeing surface rust on the brake rotors, also very common. You can get your rotors treated but it's unnecessarily and costly.

The rears are black? Brake dust might end up on your rims, but the rotors?

I'd ask a dealer to do a brake inspection to be safe.

-juice

julia

juice,

Thank you very much for your very quick response. I will ask dealer to have it checked.

kyfdx

Gen II CR-Vs have kind of a hub in the back that is the first thing you see, other than the rotors.. It is black and kind of looks like a drum brake hub at first glance... If you bend over and look more closely, you'll see the rotors... And they will probably look just like the fronts..

Look at it closely.. If the rotors are indeed black (doubtful), have the dealer check it out. Surface rust is normal on rotors and treatments for it usually compromise braking performance.

regards,
kyfdx

varmint

I think it's important (for some who are not "aficionados") that we remember Racoon's 1999 CR-V is a different model than the current 2002-2007 design. It has a very different engine, tranny, and body. Mine is also a 1999 in the faster silver color, but I get pretty much the same mpg from it.

In every forum I've read, there is always a "What's your MPG?" thread. The answer always varies. Some do better than the EPA estimate. Others do worse. The variations can be related to driving style, speed, gas formula, climate, the age of the car, and probably the owner's zodiac sign.

The abbreviation YMMV stands for "your mileage may vary". It's such a truism, this has become internet slang for "that's my opinion, take it or leave it".

isellhondas

Who never bother checking their mileage. I figure it's going to get whatever it gets and checking it won't make any difference.

But, that's me.

theracoon

Varmint's the King!

The abbreviation YMMV stands for "your mileage may vary".

I always use YMWV (Your Mileage WILL Vary).

janz1

Try this one sports fans... jump in your new CR-V and blaze down the freeway about say 50+ mph then roll the rear windows down and see if you get an intense vibrating wind sound.

It starts to sound like you have a bubble in a tire but it's the car.

We bought a CR-V 8/3 and while I was driving it this week and fooling with the controls I rolled the two rear windows down, like I said it sounded like a bubble in a rear tire.

I called the dealership today and talked to the service manager and he laughed and said he was aware of this problem but there isn't a thing Honda can do as it's a design flaw.

I was told just don't drive with the windows down as the fix.

I'm going to give Honda corporate a call tomorrow.

Not done with this one by a long shot.

kathgip

Julia,
I also heard that noise that sounded like water dripping or something popping when I got home from town the other day (also in my garage). I looked around and under the car, but did not see anything. I am sure that 'ateixeira' is correct and it is just the cooling and expanding of the metal (heat shields) under the car. I have only heard that noise the one time and never again.
You said that your V was from Japan. Where do you live? On the west coast?

kyfdx

And I live in the Midwest....

A LOT of cars have the wind buffeting noise with just the sunroof open, or just the rear windows.. Just crack the sunroof a little, or one of the front windows and it will go away.. It comes from better aerodynamics, not design flaws...

regards,
kyfdx

autosaurus

I get that in my car as well.. guess that is normal for this car. I also get some strange noises, mainly rattling type noises from under the car when the lights and air are on. seems the load it puts on the engine causes the rattle. when I shut those accessories off it goes away.

As for the buffeting noise with the rear window open. I get that on alot of cars. Usually open the front window and if reduces it.
My Volvo S60 is the worse. we refer to the sunroof as the hurricane roof. LOUD!

bshel

I get the same noise as well. I do open one of the front windows a little or open the roof. Sound disappears.

Karen_S

As the NHTSA is re-opening their investigation, a specific topic has been created in SUVs.

Honda CR-V Engine Fires

varmint

The din-din is more frequently referred to as a "ping" kind of sound. Take a thin baking sheet (or long saw blade) and shake it. You'll hear a similar sound.

As Juice suggested, that noise is just hot metal contracting as it cools down. My 1978 Ford Fairmont used to do this. It's nothing new.

The wind noise (sometimes described as a helicopter sound) actually has an official name. I forget exactly what that name is. It was something like, "The [insert name of some german scientist] Effect". It's one reason why many cars have optional moonroof visors.

If you're interested in a permanent fix, take a look at a moonroof visor like the one pictured at the link below (scroll down). If your problem is exclusive to windows, the door visors pictured at the top of the page can help reduce the effect.

http://207.150.192.12/temp/crobert0/oil.htm

Cracking some other window in the car will eliminate or significantly reduce the effect. In my old Cavalier, the noise only happened between 40-45 mph. It was really bad, though. All I had to do was stick one hand through the moonroof to stop it. That was enough to change the airflow and cancel the noise.

julia

Thank you very much for your post. I hear "din din" noise every day for several minutes. "ateixeira" may be right as I brought the car to another dealer yesterday. They told me it is the exhaust cooling down. So it is normal (to CR-V).

I live in OR (is it as same as you?). I drive CR-V, the road noise is terrible high. Also every small bump feels BIG.
I was on rental car - 2.7L Santa Fe GLS for one month when my old car was repairing (hit and run in the park lot by some jerk). Santa Fe really rides smooth. I did not choose that SUV as I thought I am not familiar with Korea maker. Now, based on the daily performance of CR-V, I think I really should buy Santa Fe or Highlander. I will be very happy on either one model. Either one will give you a very comfortable ride although they may have some minors issue later one. But they does not have risk of engine fire which could be life threaten issue like CR-V. (When I looked back older posts last weekend, as Sabirina9 mentioned there were only 15 sec to get out the car. If I got this fire, 15sec will not give me enough time to get out and release my daughter from child seat in the rear seats. So scary to image. I over trust safety score for CR-V. CR-V is the most dangerous SUV to drive as far as safety concern.)

I sincerely believe I made a mistake to get CR-V as I over trusted Honda quality/reliability. I just paid the price for the name of Honda. But my CR-V does not perform like Honda quality (I assume Honda quality should be very good as so many people happy with Accord or Civic and I am very happy with my Toyota car).

edunnett

I agree. Every car I have owned ( all Japanese - an '84 subaru, '86 honda, '93 honda, '01 subaru, '04 subaru, '04 crv ) have made pinging noises either when warming up or cooling down or both. Totally normal. All are awesome cars.

The wind noise buffeting you notice is also normal as varmint mentions. My subaruas do it worse than anything though. Hardly considered poor quality though!

Elissa

ateixeira

isell: I chart my mileage because people often ask, and because it's one way to see if your vehicle is running well. A drop in mileage would be a symptom of many potential problems.

Plus, I'm a geek. It's what we do. ;-)

BTW, if you actually have drops of fluid from your engine bay, it's probably from the A/C compressor. You'll often see a puddle under it.

-juice

ateixeira

Given Karen has created a topic for the engine fire issue, I will unsubscribe from this thread. See you folks on the other threads. :-)

-juice

kathgip

Julia, what city in OR, do you live in? I live in Hopewell. Stay dry out there today.

ahracwwr

I want to know what problems exist for 2001 CR-V LX. I am considering to buy a used car.

Kirstie_H

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charco

I recently started to get a very high whistling sound from my front drivers side window when it was rolled up tight. The dealer says that It's a bad seal. I've only had my CRV for 5 years so......don't feel too good about getting all of the window rubber replaced.

I've heard that sometimes this kind of thing can be fixed if you grease the rubber that the window slides into.

Any thoughts on that?

Thanks,

Charco

varmint

Are you asking about known issues (such as recalls, TSBs, and such), or just common problems that some owners have experienced?

gary_william

I have brought my 03 in to the shop for brake work, as I reported in a previous post. They said the rotors and pads needed to be changed on the front, after only 26k miles. rotors were warranty work and pads were my responsibility. Note; they had done the rear pads AND rotors at 20k miles. So I dropped off the car yesterday and expected to pick it up last night. Turns out that the rotors had rusted to the hubs and they had to use a cutting torch to remove them! as such I am getting new hubs, bearings, and rotors, as well as having the pads changed. Only the pads will be an out-of-pocket expense, and the rest is under warranty. No problems with the cost, but moreso with the fact that a car with less than 2 years of driving has had BOTH sets of rotors replaced, and the extreme measures used to get the front rotors off due to rusting. I know that Hondas are not famous for their braking abilities, but this seems very excessive, and may hinder my decision to purchase the car when the lease expires. Has anyone else had a similar experience with their brakes on the CR-V?

edunnett

That's amazing. I had the brakes (front/back I don't remember) on my '93 Civic rust to the rotors/drums such that I couldn't move the car out of the driveway a couple years ago. However that only happened after 8 years of the car being driven in Albany, NY through snow and salt and sitting parked in a driveway for a month in the winter without moving. Has your CR-V experienced any similarly challenging conditions - rough winters with salt, not drying/cleaning the breaks/wheels, sitting in water, driving through sand or ocean water, off roading, anything like that?

autosaurus

I drove a 200 Civic for 64,000 miles and had to replace the rotors at 32, 000 miles.. my expense according to Honda..but never had a rust issue with them.

I see rust on my '04 CRV but so far all seems ok re breaks at 15,000 miles.

on another note..my two front tires (left more so than the right) are wearing bad on the outside) The car came with a drift or pull, to the right problem although Honda says alignment is ok. Obviously they didnt drive it. I'm wondering if tire wear is due to the alignment.. My pressure is kept at 30psi all around. Anyone experience abnormal tire wear with the standard tires?

edunnett

Have you had your tires rotated at the proper intervals - every 7,500 miles? That helps with even wear.
elissa

Sylvia

TWO REQUESTS....

FIRST
A reporter is interested in speaking with someone from the Southern California area who has had a problem with a Honda CR-V fire. If you would be interested in sharing your experience with this reporter, please contact Pam Krebs, Edmunds.com PR, at pkrebs@edmunds.com with your daytime phone number. Thank you.

SECOND
A reporter is interested in speaking with a mechanic who has experience with Honda CR-Vs and the fire issue. If you are from the Southern California area and would be interested in speaking with a reporter about this, please contact Pam Krebs, Edmunds.com PR, at pkrebs@edmunds.com with your daytime phone number. Thank you.

thirdof4

I have an 04 EX with about 6700 miles. I am getting lots of creaking and clunking when starting out, turning, stopping. Is this normal? I try to never turn my wheels hard to the right or left. My brakes are also starting to "grab" occasionally. Also, the transmission seems to hesitate and then surge between gears. I haven't driven an automatic in many years so I might be overreacting, but I just expect a smoother transition between gears and tend to notice the shifting. I had the oil changed at about 5,000 miles as I live on steep hills and a long gravel driveway. I had a serious conversation with the technician who changed the oil (thanks to this forum...)and he assured me that Hondas are sooo easy to work on (this was an independent auto repair shop) and they were very careful, so we'll see if all goes well with that potential problem. I just really need to know if lots of suspension noise could be the result of driving on our steep rutted long gravel driveway, which has caused more flex in the frame and suspension or if I need to take it in. The noises occur on all surfaces including smooth highway. Also, I need to know if the somewhat jerky gear shifting is "normal" for this vehicle. Should I be noticing brake issues this early in the game too?
Thank you for your thoughts...

isellhondas

Take your still in warranty, almost new CRV to your dealer instead of an independent and have it looked over? they can drive it with you to determine if there is a problem.

autosaurus

I have 15,000 miles on my '04 and the transmission shifts pretty smooth. The only noise I noticed is the excessive road noise. No suspension creeking.. maybe struts??..but Honda should be able to figure it out if they hear it.. I haven't had much luck with Honda service over the years and do try to stay away from them for most service items if I can but for your problem I'd have them take a look at it.. as it could involve warranty work

kyfdx

The variable valve timing really kicks in just over 4000 RPM and mine really "surges".. Almost like when a turbo kicks in (well, sort of, I wish).... If that is when you feel the surge, that is normal.

regards,
kyfdx

beege52

I have a 99 CRV LX FWD with 77k miles. Recently I have been experiencing a vibration in the front end and steering that feels like I'm going over a washboard road. It lasts for 5-10 seconds and happens once or twice a day. I drive smooth city streets. Tires are wearing normally and have been balanced and rotated. I suspect the shocks but they seem Ok. Could there be a bushing or vibration dampener that is worn? Any ideas before I take it to the dealer?

Car has had zero problems since new. Regular maintenance by the book and normal wear items. Getting 22.7 MPG overall with a high of 27.7.

thirdof4

The transmission surging happens pretty regularly. I haven't noticed if it happens at 4000 rpm or not though. I'm pretty easy on the accelerator so I always notice the jerky shifts because I don't expect them from slow to moderate acceleration. I have on occasion (freeway merging) "stood" on the pedal and actually expected surging and got it but I don't expect it from my normal style of driving. I guess I'll get a chance to experience how great the much-touted service department is where we bought the car...
One other issue that really bugs me is the rear door (struts?) that slowly open the door and hold it open. The door opens ever so slowly and tends to stop about midway, then I have to yank it open the rest of the way. When I've been in a hurry with groceries, etc., I have actually walked into the partially opened door, having expected that it would continue to open on its own. Very annoying and painful on occasion. Is there an adjustment or will these guys loosen up with time so the door will open fully on its own? Do I need to put this on my list for warranty work? Thanks...

kyfdx

I have the same experience with the door.. Mine is over 2 years old, so I don't think yours is going to loosen up.. Not sure if they'll consider that a malfunction... more of a design issue, I think..

theracoon

One other issue that really bugs me is the rear door (struts?) that slowly open the door and hold it open. The door opens ever so slowly and tends to stop about midway, then I have to yank it open the rest of the way.

The tailgate on my '99 CR-V still works that way. I consider it to be a nice feature. I pull the tailgate as far open as I want. When I release it, the tailgate stays in the position I release it at and doesn't open any farther.

thirdof4

Okay, I guess I can see a positive to the door issue. I haven't had an occasion where I only wanted it to open part way yet but it would be handy to have the option rather than trying to hold the door partially closed and load stuff in at the same time if a fully open door would create a problem. I just wish it didn't take a herculean effort to get the door open fully when I want it that way. I am definitely not a wimp but have had to really pull and push hard to get it to cooperate fully so far. I certainly can't be in a hurry or loaded down with stuff.
Thanks

mtga

***DIFFERENTAIL***
So far my biggest complaint is the differential fluid. The manual say replacement is necessary at 80,000 miles. I started getting a noise from the rear end around 50,000 miles anytime I did a sharp U-Turn. Turned out the differential fluid needed to be replaced. This is documented under NHTSA TSB Item: 633649. Honda tried to make me pay for it, that only got me more pissed off. Now it is 25,000 miles later (75,000 miles) and the noise is back. I tried taking it to another garage but their system says it requires a "special" fluid that the dealer has to change and they would not touch it. The Dealer want $90 to service it, please.

***WINDOWS MOTORS***
Around 70,000 the Driver's side window started acting up and would not go up all the way, it then started making a very loud knocking sound when it went fully down, it now does not move at all. The passenger side window is starting to exhibit the same exact symptoms. Talk about crap. Honda quality?

*** BODY ****
The body on the CR-V is extremely thin, I have a few dents and paint scratches from road debris. I have full mud guards and a front hood deflector. God knows what the body would look like without them. I am very unhappy with the durability of the body. I can not imagine what sort of wreck this vehicle would look like if you drove it off road. The rear hard tire cover decal is starting to fade and wear off, seems very cheap.

*** OTHER ***
Under passenger seat plastic bin is a POS, horribly designed and constantly came off its tracks or was extremely difficult to open and close, finally just removed completely.

*** GOOD POINTS ***
Gets good mileage, all round useful, reliable in that it always gets you from point A to B. Very good bad weather handling, drove it through snow including two foot snow drifts and alot of on road bad weather, AWD worked well here. Car like ride, handles well.

theracoon

***DIFFERENTAIL***

I agree that the service interval listed in the Owners Manual is wrong. The fluid seems to need to be changed every 30,000 miles. And yes, it does take a special Dual Pump Fluid that's only available from Honda. You have to remember that it's not a "differential" in the standard sense of the word, but is in fact a complex hydraulic device who's function is to activate the RT4WD when needed. Without checking the receipt, I think my last change cost $84, which included the fluid, two crush washers, and labor.

*** OTHER ***

I've never had a problem with mine, once I learned that you needed to lift up slightly when pulling it out. And to remember that it's a plastic drawer, and therefore not able to accomodate a lot of weight. It's perfect for the connector cables for my iPod and my owners manual and other vehicle documents.

***WINDOWS MOTORS***

I haven't had this problem, but my front passenger electric door lock has stopped working reliably. After taking everything apart I've discovered I'm going to have to replace the entire latch mechanism. At 65,000 miles it's a little disappointing.

*** GOOD POINTS ***

Yeah, I like mine, too.

tomk17

mtga,

Do I understand you correctly that Honda (although they tried to get you to pay for it) DID ultimatly pick up the cost for the fluid change? That's good to know, I don't think TSB's have to be picked up my the manufacturer.

jimbo68

I live in Barbados and wishto buy another CRV to take home with me to the UK in June next year. All CRVs sold here are imported from Japan. Does anyone know if these models would meet UK specifications. I can't get anything concrete out of Honda. I know the speedo only shows KPH and not MPH but this is easily remedied. Has anyone else done the same as I propose to do? Any help would be appreciated

ceh2

I just purchased a 2004 Cr-V LX 4WD automatic from Vandergriff Honda, Arlington, Texas. I had all my numbers about invoices, holdbacks, ads, etc. before I made the deal. I knew what a fair deal was. I don't know the exact numbers MSRP 20690 + tinted glass $190; $ 275 digishield; $ 995 environmental protection package for a total of $22,175. The salesperson quoted me a great price of 19153 on the CR-V. I new that was a good deal. I had calculated around 19,600 (excluding profit). I know that digishield and EPP are way overpriced. Several minutes later he came to me and said that he made a mistake and forget to add the options. I don't know if he did that on purpose and really made a mistake. We agreed on $20,400. I asked what digishield and EPP were and he briefy described them. I really don't remember what these extras really are. Every car on the lot had these added options. My question to the forum is what is this stuff and how do I know that they are installed on the car. Post script: Never buy a car when your tired