Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

darshere

My CRV EX (AWD) is from Japan and has the PTTR problem even with the service bulletin performed.

romanm

What is the Sub Frame Tracking? I have never heard of this before (but I am not a mechanic). Thanks.

roeder

Thanks to all those that have posted info on the 05 CRV PTTR. Very helpful and informative. I only wish that I had read these prior to purchasing my 2005 CRV EX which also had the PTTR problem. Yes, HAD the problem - it is now fixed as of today.

I took the vehicle into my dealer service 2 days after purchase complaining of the PTTR. Service completed the TSB work (the first time that they had to perform it on an 05 CRV), then it pulled to the left. They ordered and installed special flanged camber adjusting bolts from American Honda which allowed them to adjust back to more center, then aligned and test drove saying that it was fixed - it wasn't.

A few days later, I brought it back to service complaining that the PTTR was more severe now than it was initially. Service completed the following all of which did not resolve the problem: checking the frame measurements, installing camber adjusting bolts, cross rotating the tires, swapping tires from another vehicle, shifting the sub-frame. Finally, they test drove a new 05 CRV off their lot to check for PTTR. It did not pull so they took the front strut assemblies off of this vehicle and replaced mine with these, then adjusted the sub-frame back to the original position, completed a 4-wheel alignment, slightly adjusted camber and the PTTR was gone. In fact, the alignment is now dead on. Of course, we are still experiencing the torque steering drift to the right when we accelerate, but this is unfortunately the way these vehicles are designed to perform when the right side drive shaft is shorter than the left.

After a 3 week process, the PTTR problem is resolved on our 2005 CRV after the front strut (both left and right) assemblies were replaced. Hope this is helpful to some others that are experinecing this problem.

kyfdx

Wow... you have a good dealer.. better stick with them..

newcar_lover

I have had a 2005 CRV EX (England) for about 2 weeks. It had PTTR from day one. I told and demonstrated to the sale man during test drive. He agreed but blamed on water on the road (it was raining) or low pressure tires. He said he would have someone check the tire pressure check. The problem was still there after we purchased the car. I brought it to Service Center a week later. I mentioned the TSB to the service man who had a test drive with me. He said he was well aware of the TSB and he would try to swap two front wheels first. After that it seem no longer have PTTR (I tested it in the city at 50mph max). The service man said the problem was "tire pull". I will test it on highway later.

The sale man told me the Honda designs their vehicles to start drifting to the right only 6 seconds after the steering wheel is let hand-free on a straight and level road.

Before I purchased the car, I check out 3 different dealers, one in North and 2 in Central of Florida. I noticed that all EXs were from England, and all LXs were from Japan. Port of entry of all those CRV was Jacksonville (FL). There was only one SE at one dealer but I didn't pay attention where it was assembled.

newcar_lover

One other thing I noticed now is a quick (and slightly hard) PTTR when the gas pedal was first pressed. I mean when the wheels start rolling. It happens for only about 1 second. I have to correct the steering wheel to keep it straight then after that it seem normal.

Before I brought it to the Service Center. I did 3 tests with it on the same straight and slightly down the hill road. First, I drove it at 40 mph with my foot on gas pedal. On second time, I drove it at 45 mph and then let my foot off the gas pedal and let it cruise until it slow down to 35 mph. The last time, from the highest point on that road at 40 mph, I shifted the gear to N (neutral; I have a AT, AWD) and let it cruise down the hill.

On the first test, PTTR problem was the worst.
On the second test, the problem was not very bad, but I don't think it's acceptable.
On the third test, it rolled down the hill straight like an arrow !?!?

As I mentioned before, the swapping front wheels seem to fix the problem, and the service man said it was "tire pull"

So, anyone have any idea.

stevedebi

"Finally, they test drove a new 05 CRV off their lot to check for PTTR. It did not pull so they took the front strut assemblies off of this vehicle and replaced mine with these, then adjusted the sub-frame back to the original position, completed a 4-wheel alignment, slightly adjusted camber and the PTTR was gone."

Whoa, wonder if they will simply install your parts back onto that '05? Wonder who will get the Frankenstein CR-V?

phil_qc

Hi!
Same thing w/ my 05 EX CR-V...
My dealer did the last TSB about strut mounts rotation
and the V still pttr.

I posted the TSB scan on the hondaSUV.com forum...

When I was at the dealer, a guy from Honda Canada
test drove my V and agreed that there is a problem but
did not know how to solve it. They realy want to help me
so they will give me more news in about a week.

I just changed the tires by the way (Michelin Hydroedge)
and I can tell you that there is no relation between the PTTR
and the tires.

I'm now working w/ Honda Canada and my dealer and will
let you know of any news... I hope that everybody understand
my post 'cause I don't really speak english.

Philippe

bhitchcock

I think most of the time I'll change the oil on my new CR-V as I want to do it every 3-4K miles and it looks pretty straight forward. Drain plug is easy access and the oil filter looks OK if you have a Honda filter wrench. Anyone have recommendations on how to keep oil off the under carriage when removing the oil filter as appears to sit right over the front axle? Also, how does this impact my Honda warranty? Should I bring it in to a dealer every 10K miles which is a min. 2-3 hour experience when I can do it myself in 30 minutes?
Thanks,

alohalu21

I just bought a used 1999 CRV (manual transmission) from a gal (only owner) who says she had all the svc done according to the manual (have the paperwork). The car is in great condition and drives very smoothly, especially after I replaced all 4 tires with Costco's Michelin tires, same sz as the recommended sz in the manual as well and what was on the car when I bought it. When driving, whether on the freeway or not, I notice the car speedometer is showing about 5 mph higher speed than the radar detectors on the road show (passed these radar detectors 3 different times in different areas). I noticed the speedometer was showing 75-80mph when I was on the right lane and other cars were passing me on the left lane. The speed limit is 60mph on this hwy I was on. I am here in Hawaii and the majority of drivers drive the speed limit or slower. From my experience of driving these same roads for years in my Explorer, I can tell that I was not going as fast as the speedometer. The gal I bought this car from told me she just had the timing belt changed- but can't imagine that having to do with the change. I asked her if she ever notice the speedometer difference and she said she didn't.
I've read that car manufactures set the speedometers a little higher as a fail safe. I've read all the postings and so far no one has this problem. Could someone shed some light on this. I will take it to a speedo shop next week to have it checked but will it be costly or hard to have it recalibrated because it is electrical?

blueiedgod

I just bought a used 1999 CRV (manual transmission) from a gal (only owner) who says she had all the svc done according to the manual (have the paperwork). The car is in great condition and drives very smoothly, especially after I replaced all 4 tires with Costco's Michelin tires, same sz as the recommended sz in the manual as well and what was on the car when I bought it. When driving, whether on the freeway or not, I notice the car speedometer is showing about 5 mph higher speed than the radar detectors on the road show (passed these radar detectors 3 different times in different areas). I noticed the speedometer was showing 75-80mph when I was on the right lane and other cars were passing me on the left lane. The speed limit is 60mph on this hwy I was on. I am here in Hawaii and the majority of drivers drive the speed limit or slower. From my experience of driving these same roads for years in my Explorer, I can tell that I was not going as fast as the speedometer. The gal I bought this car from told me she just had the timing belt changed- but can't imagine that having to do with the change. I asked her if she ever notice the speedometer difference and she said she didn't.
I've read that car manufactures set the speedometers a little higher as a fail safe. I've read all the postings and so far no one has this problem. Could someone shed some light on this. I will take it to a speedo shop next week to have it checked but will it be costly or hard to have it recalibrated because it is electrical?

Neither speedos nor radars are absolutley correct, both will allow for 5-10% error. I remember my Gen 1 CR-V was about 5 mph less than GPS. I don't think the cost of adjusmnet will justify the end result. You can simply note that it is 5 mph off everytime you drive. Let this be the most of your troubles.

P.S. See if the previous owners had the valve adjustments done at 30K intervals instead of manual recommended 90K miles. Gen 1 have a nasty habit of burning valves from being too tight. The owner's manual is wrong in suggesting adjustments at 90K intervals.

varmint

Mine is off by about 4 mph at 65 mph. It's not uncommon for the 1st generation CR-V. Like Blueied, I don't see the point in fixing it.

alohalu21

Thank you Blueied and Varmint for the advice. This the the 1st car I've own where the speedometer is this far off. It's good to know that this is not uncommon in the 1st gen. I owned a Saab for 15 yrs and then an Explorer for the last 12yrs. This 1999 CR-V doesn't even hold a candle to my 1978 Saab much less my 1994 Explorer. Due to finances, it will be my car for the next 3 yrs then on to my son so I am learning as much as I can to keep this car around for at least 5 more years. You guys are great!

isellhondas

A CRV doesn't "hold a candle" to a 27 year old SAAB much less a 94 Explorer???

Say it isn't so!

alohalu21

I am not comparing the 1999 CR-V to a 27year old SAAB. My 1978 Saab 900 which I had for 15 yrs was a standard 4 sp. It had more power than my 1999 CR-V. The interior was plush and seats were very very comfortable. When I sold it in 1995, the engine was still solid, the exterior was in great shape, no dents. I find the Honda CRV to be very 'tinny'/light, dents sooooooo easily! When going up the Pail Hwy, I feel like the car is straining on 4th gear. The seats are so very uncomfortable especially after driving an Explorer for the last 12 yrs. The 2005 CRV are probably much improved. I know that by reputation, Honda makes great cars (my sister owns a civic and loves it). I needed a car that had better gas mileage and one that I can also fit my windsurfing equipment into (and fits my budget). I'm sure I'll appreciate enjoy this CRV in time.

mikefm58

But you are comparing the CRV to vehilces you've driven before, like your SAAB and Explorer. Those are entirely different vehicles and I'd expect them to be much different than each other.
.
If you're used to driving a vehicle with lots of low end torque, then your impression of a CRV will be that it's a dog.

samr

I am experiencing the same stering vibration while at stop sign with my 05 CR-V SE please let me know about your dealer experience onthis issue. Thanks

whtmonkey

I had noise with my 2000 CRV at around 60,000 (it started right after I had the 60,000 maintainance completed) and was told I needed to replace the rear differential. The noise persisted after that repair and the dealership said the front equivalent to the rear differential also needed to be replaced. They said that the bearings on both were bad. I contacted Honda America and they agreed to pay for 75% of the cost of the repairs even though the car was out of warranty. Now at 98,000 the same noise has returned. I have an appointment with the dealership next week and I'm guessing they will tell me that it is the same issue. This car is looking more and more like a lemon!

loni333

Regarding the noise you are hearing, I currently have a 98 CR-V and it did the same thing,(i thought it only happened to mine). I did find out that if you have them put more differential fluid in the back the noise would go away. I am not a mechanic but for some reason it would run out more in the back of the car. This should not happen but, maybe will help!??

tc4all

I had an old SAAB and to put things right the SAAB and the old Alfa Spider for that matter both used very heavy gauge metal for the exterior. That said, those cars I am referring to were before "crumple zones" or what are basically disposable areas of the car for "safety" reasons. Whichever is better I can't say, but 99% of current cars are made of thin exterior metal.
As for power, I don't know where you got that. The 93 SAAB (I think that was the year we had) was so slow and so little power that I had the gas to the floor going up a hill to go over a local highway. My 2005 CR-V can even pass on that hill when asked too. Different cars, different times, different types of vehicles.
For me, I am extremely happy with the CR-V and it is the lowest power of any car I have owned including a 6 cyl Camry, a 6 cyl Acura Legend, a Mazda RX-7 Turbo, etc. The others were faster, but the CR-V does fine. I changed to Tripletreads and improved the ride but I do wish it were a little easier on severe bumps. Hey, what do you want for a truck? Overall I more pleased then I thought I would be for my first 4 cyl and first SUV.

blueiedgod

I am not comparing the 1999 CR-V to a 27year old SAAB. My 1978 Saab 900 which I had for 15 yrs was a standard 4 sp. It had more power than my 1999 CR-V. The interior was plush and seats were very very comfortable. When I sold it in 1995, the engine was still solid, the exterior was in great shape, no dents. I find the Honda CRV to be very 'tinny'/light, dents sooooooo easily! When going up the Pail Hwy, I feel like the car is straining on 4th gear. The seats are so very uncomfortable especially after driving an Explorer for the last 12 yrs. The 2005 CRV are probably much improved. I know that by reputation, Honda makes great cars (my sister owns a civic and loves it). I needed a car that had better gas mileage and one that I can also fit my windsurfing equipment into (and fits my budget). I'm sure I'll appreciate enjoy this CRV in time.

Can't help you with the seats, but since you have a manual Honda, you are more in control that auto drivers. Try revving the engine closer to the red line before shifting. You will see where the power is. Almost all Honda engines make their power above 5000 RPM. Even though yours does not have VTEC, you will feel the power at or near the red line. Don't be affraid, Honda engines are designed to be revved.

As far as the outside skin being thin and the car being light, it was meant to be that way, because it is essentially a jacked up Civic. Almost all Japanese cars and newer US cars have thinner skin to save weight.

varmint

The car is not a lemon. You just need to take care of it. Here, read this.

varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #3, 22 Nov 2003 1:10 pm

If you hear this noise take the car to a mechanic soon. Don't let it go for 1,000 miles without getting the car seen. If you fail to replace the dual pump fluid in the rear differential, you can cause binding in the drivetrain. Binding is a bad thing. Imagine trying to twist the driveshaft into a pretzel. That's binding. It's probably what caused your problem with the front differential.

Now, Honda probably took care of you (paying 75% of the repairs) because the owner's manual gives a very optimistic service schedule for replacing the pump fluid. They say to have it done every 90K miles. That's pretty bogus. Most find that 40-50K is best (many owners do it even more regularly.).

fussycrvowner

Hello: I am a newbie to the board. I do most of my own maintenance on my 2002 CR-V EX except for when I do not have tools or it is an expensive job which should be covered under warranty. Here is my question: Has anybody run across a hesitation which feels like the computer rhymically cutting off the fuel when under moderate to heavy acceleration? It is intermittant and is annoying when trying to pass or pull out into traffic. I asked the dealer to look at it and was told "those sysmptoms are hard to trace unless your check engine light comes on and sets a code." I checked the RPMs it happens and whether the AC is on. Does not seem to make a difference. I just replaced spark plugs with OEM after trying the Denso Iridium. Same story. Fuel system cleaners and the like to not matter either. Am I expecting too much out of a Vtech 4 trying to pull a box this size?

nicc

I have a 2005 Crv Lx. AS recently as yesterday I cannot use the Keychain remote to lock my car. The problem seems to be with the trunk. I have looked at it every which was but when I close it and press the botton the whole car won't lock. I have to lock it manually.
The remote is working. After fiddling with it yesterday I got it to work but then again today no luck. The glass does flip up with the remote.
Any ideas what could be in the way and/or causing the problem? HELP?

fussycrvowner

My '02 does that. The remote will not lock unless all the doors are completely closed. Sounds like a bad or misadjusted switch in the rear door. There was a service bulletin addressing the rear light flickering due to a bad switch. Not sure if the same switch is used to check for open doors?

nicc

Thank you. Also, the light in the car for the trunk is blinking at times that the trunk is open.
I go out and check the trunk, shut it tight and still can't lock it.

theracoon

I think that's exactly what fussycrvowner was saying.

If the switch for the door is misaligned or malfunctioning then the light would flicker and the remote wouldn't work because it thinks the door is open (because the switch thinks it's open). Have the switch checked.

JM2C

tntitan

This may sound silly but my wife had trouble with this until she realized that she had hit the button to open the back window and unless it is shut the remote locks do not work. Next time you have this problem just check and make sure the window on the trunk door is shut.

chiefjs

I just bought a 2005 SE and see nothing in the owners manual as to the type or brand of windshield washer fluid to use.

Where did your info in silicats come from?

blueiedgod

I just bought a 2005 SE and see nothing in the owners manual as to the type or brand of windshield washer fluid to use.

Where did your info in silicats come from?

Where did the info on the windshield fluid come from? I don't remember posting about the windshield washer fluid. But since you asked, I use Rain X or the BJ's knock off, and I Rain-X the windshield.

If you are referring to coolant, as the title of your post woudl suggest, then yes, you SHOULD stick with Honda, especially since mine is BLUE. I would assume that all of 2005's came out with a BLUE coolant, as someone has mentioned that at the parts counter they only sell the blue antifreeze now.

nicc

THank you so much for all of your replys. I did try the window on the trunk and it is closed. That was ny first thought, too. I am going to check about getting the switched checked. Thanks again!

phil_qc

Copy from my post on HondaSUV.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi everyone,

Just want to let you know that my V now Push to the front, no more
PTTR...

They did the TSB w/out result but today they mooved the subframe to be able to adjust the caster 0,5* more on the right side . The V now track perfectly straight...

Philippe.

Ok, so this is what is on my service sheet:

Moved the subframe to be able to put more caster on the right side
(1,5* left......2,0* right)

Alignment sheet:

..............(-0,8 to 0,8)..........(-0,08 to 0,08)
front left: camber: -0,1.........toe: 0,00
front right: camber: -0,0.......toe: 0,00

total front: 0,00 (-0,16 to 0,16)

..............(-1,8 to -0,3).........(0,04 to 0,16)
rear left: camber: -0,7..........toe: 0,06
rear right: camber: -0,8........toe: 0,07

total rear: 0,13 (0,08 to 0,32)

So you can see that the alignment is normal and
will not eat tires...

Philippe

varmint

Thanks for the follow-up!

quietman

I have the same problem trying to charge my lg6100 cell. In addition, when I change the fuse the check engine light comes on. I have an appointment with the dealer on Monday 6/27. This should be interesting. I'll let you know what I find out,

Quietman

pabuster

I've had nothing BUT problems with my rear differential since I bought it!!!! Every time I took it to the dealer, they claimed the fluid evaporated from normal wear....and every 6 months they would keep replacing the fluid. Now that it's out of warranty, it's $20 a pop!....I'm presently trying to change it myself but found that the bolts are so tight, I'll have to take it to a garage just to get the bolts loosened

blueiedgod

I've had nothing BUT problems with my rear differential since I bought it!!!! Every time I took it to the dealer, they claimed the fluid evaporated from normal wear....and every 6 months they would keep replacing the fluid. Now that it's out of warranty, it's $20 a pop!....I'm presently trying to change it myself but found that the bolts are so tight, I'll have to take it to a garage just to get the bolts loosened
I used the included scissor jack to losen the bolt. Put the square end of the ratchet into the bolt and position it so that when you jack it it will un-screw the bolt. Do the top one first, then bottom.

cam3

Has anyone had any problems with brake noise on the 05 crv se? It's hard to describe, sort of like a groan or a clunk? I hear it when I first move the car or when backing up.

kats

I also have about five scratches across the bottom of my hood, my right fender, and other ransom places on my brand new car. They are a rough consitency and appear to be painted on. I have also discovered an area on my hood seam where the clear coat is beginning to peel off. Additionally, the paint has begun to completely flake off on the body molding (I have an SE), where, I assume, someone door dinged me.

Lastly, I have noticed, from day 1, a creaking noise when I go over speed bumps and am on rough road that appears to either be coming from the back door or the sunroof. I had it looked at an in my dealer's infinite wisdom, the cause was determined to be from a loose license plate bracket sliding around the cargo area.

Has antbod :confuse: y encountered either paint probs or a similiar creaky plastic sound?

kats

Just curious: what color is the car? Did the dealer take it back?

My SE also has weird rough paint marks randomly across the body. I didnt notice them until after I had the car a few days, but my car had over 100 miles when I bought it. The dealer said it was for "roadtests", but I found one of his motivational tapes in the deck. Things that make you go "Hmmm...".

varmint

varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #5, 25 Nov 2003 2:25 pm

Could be related to the same TSB we saw a few years ago.

cam3

Thanks! I did read this post and thought it might be the problem. It's interesting that no one else seems to have a similar problem. It's really more like a creaking noise. I'm going back to the dealer tomorrow to have them check it out. Otherwise I really love my crv!

tomk17

Changing the oil is pretty easy. Done it 4 times on my 04 CRV. Just pack an old tee shirt or 2 under the filter area to catch most of the spilage when you remove the filter. A bit messy but not too bad. Then just sop up any extra that the rag does not catch. I've been using 5-30 synthetic despite what the manual easy. 5-30 is pretty thin and works fine for me here in the Northeast (hot summer and winters I park in a garage). I run 10K on the oil and have done this with several Hondas without problem. Stick with the Honda filter and always get the crush ring for the drain plug.

mddaddy

Hello,

We haved lived with this same problem for over 2 years now. We bought the car in CO new, and the dealer there said they could not recreate the hesitation problem so they performed a software update on the Transmission Control Module (TCM.)

I left the gas cap loose on my previous fill up, and resultingly the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) came on. I suspected the cap was the cause, but the car started running badly, as well. I decided to take it to the dealer, and used this as an opportunity to have them look at the ongoing hesitation issue.

When I dropped it at the dealer yesterday, a tech rode along and recreated the bad driving conditions (low power, miss). They had it all day, and then the service writer called a half hour before closing to tell me the gas cap was loose. We decided they should keep it another day. I am waiting to see what they come up with next.

So, has anyone had any success getting the dealer to correct the problem fussycrvowner mentioned, above. Again, my 2002 EX also has had this problem nearly since new.

Thanks.

fussycrvowner

Thanks for the info. I asked the dealer to update my software and they wouldn't based on no trouble codes being set. My next step will be to change the rear differential fluid. Not sure if the AWD may be kicking in and creating some drag.

aw2

I just purchased a ' 99 CRV and my husband is expecting it to go a million miles without any repairs. I NEED YOUR HELP, as it is already making a squealing sound after I have used the brakes. Is this some sort of sensor indicating that I need new brake pads? Also, there is a faint smell of gasoline when I get out of the car after having driven it for a while. ( never when the engine is cold ) Another concern is when I drive up an incline from a dead stop, it seems to take forever to downshift ( I think that is the right term ). It feels like the engine is going to blow because it seems to be working so hard before the car downshifts. Does this indicate that a transmission repair is needed? I would really appreciate your help. My husband is going to kill me for selecting this car, if in fact, it does need all these repairs.

mikefm58

I too have a '99 CRV, now has 108K trouble free miles, though I don't expect a million.
.
The squealing brakes is the sensor, your brake pads are getting thin. Have the pads changed before you hear the screech of metal grinding.
.
No idea what the gas smell is.
.
Is your O/D turned off? If so, that would cause higher RPMs going up inclines like you mentioned. Mine also seems to rev high even with the O/D button set. The O/D button is on the end of the shifter knob.

fussycrvowner

You know, come to think of it - my engine light did come on at one point about 2 years ago and the dealer updated the computer. I wonder if the "update" created a new set of bugs...

steve royal

Here is an update on my '05 CRV bought back in November, '04, with the dreaded PTTR. After months of legal wrangling with Honda Manufacturer and setting a Lemon Law arbitration date, Honda backed out of the arbitration days before it was to happen and decided to buy the faulty CRV back. I know there were a number of you out there following my ordeal and those of you out there dealing with Honda as I write this now. Pursuant to the Lemon Law requirements in my state, the vehicle was brought in three times for attempted fixes. None of the fixes worked to any degree whatsoever. I realize that a TSB has been issued recently re: the PTTR problem. However, it appears from the recent posts that the effectiveness of the TSB to eliminate the PTTR or excessive 'torque steer' has been minimal. I wish the best of luck to those of you out there still fighting for the right to drive a vehicle that goes straight.

For those of you out there trying to convince people that torque steer should be expected in all front wheel drive vehicles, I can only say that the FWD Saturn Vue that I just leased must be broke because it drives straight as an arrow if I am coasting or if I floor the gas pedal. The only downside of owning a vehicle that drives straight is my arm muscle has decreased in size since I am not constantly tugging the steering wheel to the left to compensate for the steering wheel pulling to the right. It is a pleasure to drive a vehicle, once again, that allows the driver to be the one to decide which direction the vehicle moves. Thanks to all of you out there that have contributed to the discussion on this issue. Steve

mikefm58

I'm glad things worked out to your satisfaction Steve. And I feel Honda did the right thing. Every manufacturer, regardless of product and reputation, does put out a lemon at least once in awhile.

Just curious, how do the numbers work with a lemon law buy back? Do they take it back for the same price you paid for it or do they take off since it is an 8 month old used car?

PS...You made a good choice with the Vue, my buddy has one and it's nice. And with GM employee pricing, great deals are out there.

chiefjs

I am wondering what others are maintaining for tire pressure?

I just bought a 05 CRV-SE and remember the salesman telling me to check the tire pressure often and that the recommended PSI is 29. The manual says the same.

Well today I bought a gauge and started to test. I thought the gauge was no good when I got readings of 40 and 45.

I drove about a mile to a mechanic and asked him the check. Sure enough, my gauge was correct. He then reduced them down to 30.

Up until this point I got a good ride and minimal road noise. I will be curious to see if that continues with the 30 psi. My mileage, mostly city, but some highway (about 100 miles between each fill-up) has been averaging around 24 mpg.