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Interesting reading this forum--I have a 2003 CRV EX. Has anybody experienced having a difficult time moving the automatic gear shift from "P" to "R" when the vehicle is cold. In the winter it was worse, even now when parked outside over night it remains a little sticky--no problem after it's driven throughout the day. Also, I appear to have lost my AC, although the dealer will be taking care of this; I'm just curious if I'm lucky or if these are common problems. I want to get my money(s) worth from warranty (51,000Km and counting).
Thanks
Yep
Has anyone else had this problem with their CR-V? It is a 2002-present problem.
This is an overly generalized comment which has very little consumptive value to anyone trying to constructively deal with buying decisions and/or specific issues. England built CRVs are a fact of life. Perhaps they have had a few manufacturing hiccups like PTTR, but in general they are still outstanding and don't warrant such an unsubstantiated negative review. Other than PTTR, which was corrected by my dealer, my England built CRV is a fine automobile.
The noise is getting louder
It's a shame because it is this engine that sold the vehicle to me. In fact I quote the brochure "So smooth is the new engine, driving the Honda is like surfing on a wave of double cream. At idle it's virtually silent and utterly vibration free" Maybe I should have bought the Nissan X - Trail after all
I've got one of these, as well. Just be aware that installing it will prevent you from folding the front passenger seat completely flat for use as a "bed" (a little-used feature of the EX models).
Anyway... I doubt your problem has anything to do with the belt issue I described above. I believe the 2.2 diesel uses a timing chain, rather than a belt.
It is a new engine option, and it will take time to work it out. My recommendation would be to go above the dealer's head. Contact Honda customer service and have them open a case. The more they learn from you, the faster they'll be able to fix it.
Good luck!
One of the other members who posts here was told by an American Honda rep after this report came out that this was a design problem with the 2005 that would be corrected for 2006.
I suggest if you are reading these boards to see if you want to purchase these vehicles, wisely take your money to a different manufacturer so that this does not become an issue for you!
Has anyone else had this problem with their CR-V? It is a 2002-present problem.
It is called: "the mechanic screwed up and double gasketed the oil filter" This has been the main cause of engine fires in the second generation CR-V. BTW, Accord has the same eaxct engine, as the CR-V. IF the same mechanic does the job again, you will be looking at the Accord loosing oil.
Interesting reading this forum--I have a 2003 CRV EX. Has anybody experienced having a difficult time moving the automatic gear shift from "P" to "R" when the vehicle is cold. In the winter it was worse, even now when parked outside over night it remains a little sticky--no problem after it's driven throughout the day. Also, I appear to have lost my AC, although the dealer will be taking care of this; I'm just curious if I'm lucky or if these are common problems. I want to get my money(s) worth from warranty (51,000Km and counting).
Thanks
When you park, do you apply the parking brake, or just leave it in "P?" LEaving automatics in "P" without apllying parking brake is not really good for tranny, especially if you park on an incline.
I bought a new CR-V in August, 2003. I have 20,000 miles on it and it has been trouble free. It does however make a curious noise that is very hard to diagnose or describe when turning left.
You need to turn the vehicle about half way trough it's turning radius to hear it and it sounds like--at the risk of sounding silly here--an "ooh ooh ooh ooh" noise. It is faint but has been getting louder.
I did purchase the 7 year 110,000 mile extended warranty because I do drive a lot and I intend on keeping this baby at least 10-15 years. I do so love this vehicle but that noise is annoying.
Has anybody had a similar experience or can anyone suggest what I can check? I already had the brakes cleaned and adjusted and all components are in good working order.
Thanks in advance!
Pete
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Yes, that's the way it works and was designed. No, there's no adjustment.
Sorry.
Thanks in advance
I lost my arbitration due to the fact that the arbitrator felt the possible design flaw was outside the purview of the arbitration and should be taken up with the manufacturer - unfortunately, we all know how Honda has chosen to (not) handle this (the whole reason I ended up in arbitration). I am now the proud owner of a 2005 Ford Escape 4WD Hybrid - I took a huge hit in arbitration and a $7000 loss on the trade-in. But I was reminded how poorly this car drives when taking it in to trade-in so will just chalk it up to another lesson in life. Hopefully others will be forewarned of this possible defect and chose to take their business elsewhere.
The best way would be to test drive the model on flat roads and at varying speeds. Accelerate hard with a loose grip (probably best to make sure there are no walls or cars or pedestrians around!) because you will notice the problem immediately.
It will also drift off the road quite rapidly (today while doing highway driving in a remote area I loosely held the wheel and at 55 it drifted onto the shoulder - literally a second lane - in 1.5 seconds, well below what Honda calls normal).
Mine also had a very noticeable vibration at a speed of 60 mph and the front end shook...great!
Apparently, if the vehicle isn't doing the PTTR thing from the start, you may be fortunate to have one that actually functions properly. Good luck!
It locked on me three times last week. I am pretty frustrated to say the least - I absolutely love my car but can't tolerate this hassle. It left me in a dark parking lot after a seminar one night...I've gotten to the point that I leave the tab under the gear shift removed so I can insert my key to unlock it. If you run across anything in the way of a resolution for this, please let me know. I have already talked to the service manager at the dealership and he's the one who initiated the solenoid replacement.
The sad thing is that the problem is very random. It'll lock and I'll immediately drive to the dealership but by then it's "behaving". Or, I'll go a couple of weeks with no problems and then have problems several days in a row.
Thanks!
Lisa
"S" for England (Swindon)
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Does your vibration happen while you are stopped with your foot on the brake (like at a trafffic light)?
Only while moving?
High speeds? Low speeds?
And so forth.
Thanks,
Daniel
1) Tie rod ends are stripped and not hilding the setting.
2) Mechanic that works on your car is not the brightest bulb in the bunch.
3) The car was wrecked and repaired. Did anything show up on Carfax?
4) It is cursed!!!
Have they determined what makes the noise? Is it the bearing or the brakes? Start by eliminating one of another. Replace brake pads with quieter ones from EBC or Akebono. Repack the grease in the bearing. Or replace the bearing all together. See if anything is rubbing up against the rim on the inside.
Since the One mechanic is able to "clean the brakes" which does stop the squeaking only for a day, then its back. Seems like the brakes are at fault. Replace the brake shoes, see if helps, if not. Replace the drum. You could have a sticky parking brake cable that is making the shoe drag on the drum. How is gas mileage and acceleration? The rear brakes are self adjusting. Drive backwards in a parking lot for some distance while applying the brakes lightly and releasing. This should adjust the tightness if that is the cause, but it won't fix the sticky cable.
I continue to work it out with Honda re: the vehicle's excessive PTTR. Our Lemon Law requires the vehicle to be taken in at least 3 times for repair before the Lemon Law can kick in. You should check the Lemon Law requirements for your state and follow them to the letter. If there is a loophole for Honda to get out of doing anything for you, believe me they will attempt to do it. (In the meantime, I suggest you join some of the other unhappy Honda customers and post your complaint on the NHTSA website under the appropriate category.) I have found that any person that makes $ off the Honda brand including the dealers, salesman, mechanics and manufacturer will try to downplay your problem and act as if you have an isolated incident. The usual first response is "I have never heard of this problem" or something like "I've driven many of these and they all are just fine." I guess you can't blame them, they make their living off the Honda brand, they are not going to want to admit to something that may affect how much food they can put on their table. Honda Manufacturer's position with me is that the vehicle is designed to pull to the right so it is within specs. According to the expert used by 'Hawaiicrv,' he states that the only reason the '05 CRV he tested is 'within specs' is because Honda can set whatecer specifications they want notwithstanding the vehicle suffering from lane change in excess of other similar vehicles. In other words, the only reason the PTTR is "normal" is because Honda can set any specification it wants. I estimate that I will continue to litigate for at least another month. As the saga continues, I will keep the readers abreast of the situation. Good Luck...you'll need it. Steve
I'm pretty sure that the lemon law only applies to new cars, not used cars. Here is California, all used cars come with a very large letter sign that says, "Sold AS IS - No WARRANTY", even if that particular car has an extended warranty or some factory warranty still left on it.
In California, my brief research on the California Lemon Law website relays in pertinent part:
WHAT IS A NEW MOTOR VEHICLE
The law discussed above applies to "new motor vehicles." (Certain limited protection may apply to used vehicles as described in Section 2.) The term "new motor vehicle" includes not only new motor vehicles but also demonstrators; the chassis, chassis cab, and propulsion system of a new motor home; and any other motor vehicle sold with a manufacturer's new car warranty. For example, a two-year old used car sold with the remaining one year portion of a manufacturer's three-year new car warranty would be treated as a new motor vehicle. The term "new motor vehicle," however, does not include motorcycles or exclusively off-road vehicles.
To reiterate, every state contains different approaches to the Lemon Law and must be researched thoroughly in order to have a chance at succeeding in litigation. Steve
First of all...I don't doubt your CRV may have a pull.
BUT...I HAVE driven a whole bunch of CRV's including the two I own and have yet to experience this. I really don't care whether you believe me or not but that is the truth!
I do hope your problem get's resolved.
I believe the majority of the posts over the last few months were re: PTTR and torque steer with '05 2WD models. You have posted multiple times that your familiarity with this particular year and model is limited. (i.e. You wrote: "Someone mentioned this is more of a problem on the 2WD models? In my neck of the woods these don't sell very well...I've probably sold maybe three since 1997. IF THESE DO HAVE A PROBLEM I WOULDN'T KNOW SINCE I CAN'T REMEMBER THE LAST TIME I WAS IN ONE.")
When you continue to generalize about all the CRVs that you have been in, you are misleading the public. If someone that works selling Hondas tells me that they have been in a 'whole bunch' of CRVs and never saw a particular problem, one would assume that they had driven all the models of the current year. However, in your case, this is not true.
Also, I did not say you were not telling the truth, the imagination can play tricks on the best of us. Just as you have written that some posters may imagine problems, you are not immune to the tricks of the imagination. Is it possible that there were problems with CRVs you drove but your imagination got the best of you...and did not let you fully appreciate the empirical world... Steve
What the dealer does not understand is that Honda has built in a tolerance for tire variation. This is actually necessary for making turns, as well. If you replace an older tire with a brand new tire, there will be some variation in diameter because of tread wear. But it's not enough to engage the AWD unit.
The details on this tolerance require quite a bit of background information. Below is a link to how it all works.
varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #10, 3 Dec 2003 2:17 pm
Thankfully Waterloo Honda appears to be a fairly decent dealership... hopefully all of my problems will be fixed before 60,000 km--I'd hate to be paying these bills.
I too have an '05 CR-V. I was also surprised with the 10,000 mile oil change interval. I was even more surprised with the 20,000 mile filter interval! Notice that the manual calls for oil changes every 10,000 miles and filter changes every 20,000 miles! Could I have read that wrong?
My CR-V does not meet the criteria for severe use so I decided to follow the recommendations. Sure enough, the maintenance light started blinking at 8,000 miles as a reminder just like the book said.
Should save me a lot of money on oil changes.
It doesn't take "imagination" to determine whether a car pulls or not. It either does or it doesn't.
Still, people read of this, take their CRV out on the road the next time, take their hands off the wheel looking for a problem. It drifts to the right a bit (normal) and they think there is a defect.
And, yeah, I happened to drive a 2WD last week and it didn't have a pull.
I sincerly do hope your problem get's solved.
Vermint-
Overheat, yes, bind up no. The system disengages when it overheats. But it wouldn't be pretty, disengaging only to overheat only to disengage...
RT4WD would over-heat if it kept cycling on and off. With the clutch plates come into contact with one another, then releasing, then connecting again, then releasing... the friction involved generates heat.
However, if the system *thinks* that one tires are always slipping (because one is rotating faster than the others), the system will not cycle on and off. It will stay locked in the on position. (Ironically, the only thing that would shut it off, is if there was slippage.) If there's no cycling, there's no friction. No friction means no heat.
Now, binding is another story. Binding happens when the front and rear axles are locked together. With those axles locked, you cannot having them turning at differnt speeds. They need to turn at different speeds when taking a corner. For example, you'd end up with one end of the propellor shaft trying to turn at 10 mph, while the other end is trying to turn at 9 mph. Since RT4WD would always be active (in this odd tire size scenario), the risk of binding is much higher.