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She loves the car and it has been bulletproof so far.
Very good point, I never roll the windows down at highway speeds; if it is too hot, I run the A/C.
Dealer replaced defect Bridgestone Duelers manufactured in England with BF Goodrich Traction T/A's. Saw a small improvement but not a complete fix.
My dealer then found that Honda recently (last week) issued a news bulletin for 2005 CRVs manufactured in England indicating that an adjustment is required to the strut mounts and spring rotation on both front sides of the vehicle. Evidently this news bulletin provides a 2005 specific update to the TSB that is already in place for some 2002-2004 CRVs. This TSB has been referenced in some of the earlier posts dealing with PTTR on CRV models.
Given that I'm getting the max epa number in mixed driving, rather than just highway alone, I don't think the A/C is hurting me all that much. The fact that I have a smaller engine with a timing belt rather than timing chain, make me think that the A/C would actually have a greater impact on my mpg.
In the end, I agree with the Racoon. The A/C has less of an impact than driving fast.
I have a 2003 CRV and it's just great!
Thanks,
Thanks
I'm not easy on tires, but I found the Duelers to be not so great, in regards to wear... Hard cornering seems to make them go away very quickly.. They are pretty crappy tires.. It didn't hurt my feelings to get rid of them..
regards,
kyfdx
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I only found Anderson Honda because of this awesome forum - after a scandalous switch and bait experience with Jim Doten's Honda in Berkeley, CA which I don't recommend at all. Their internet department is not professional and will say anything to get you into the store and then change things once you arrive - even if you have been negotiating for a particular VIN # - which is highly illegal. :mad:
Know that not every dealership that says they have a internet department really has one. Use your computer and e mail to negotiate and price match a deal. Refer to forums like this one for referrals and you will walk away happy and financially healthy. Anyhow - BIG thanks to this forum for helping me find my great deal!
The car buying experience can be a big turn-off when you just walk into a dealership especially for the educated consumer. The outdated sales tactics are so obvious and don't work on most people who have done their homework and can walk, think and add with a calculator. Until dealerships stop these cromagnin - predatory practices - "caveat emptor". Use the internet to research and find your good deal-it is out there.
Our 2003 CRV has 15,000 miles and the Duelers don't show any real wear I can see.
I wish they WOULD wear out so I could put something quieter on!
As for noise...yes, they are noisy.
As for traction...these might be the worst tires I have ever driven on. Here is how bad these things were in the PA snow....on bad snow days, we took our 2002 Odyssey!
They are just OK now that spring is here so I will finish wearing them out. It won't take long. I can not wait to get rid of these tires.
This is, by far, my biggest complaint about the CRV.
For many years, Honda also stocked the CR-V with a set of BFGs. These were almost as noisey, not much better for performance, but did last a bit longer. The only advantage for the Duellers was better off-road performance. The BFGs got chewed up easily.
are just about 0 toe in which is called total toe, get that by adding the left and right reading. In the past most front wheel
drive car have called for toe out specs and amounts vary for manufacturer
to manufacturer
1. We live in the Kansas City area - does anybody have any experience getting a decent price (below sticker) for the SE? [I prefer the SE because of the leather, heated seats and mirrors which is nice for us getting older folks in winter. I'm surprised to find that the CR-V doesn't include the built-in garage door opener and power passenger seat like our other similarly priced cars.]
2. Are there any mechanical or other glitches, or nit-picks that have turned up for the CR-V?
3. Are there any recommended care and feeding, or user options, that we should be sensitive to?
Many thanks for your time and consideration,
-Doug
buying a vehicle from another state?
State sales tax buying out-of state
Buying out of state
#1 - Search through Honda CR-V Prices Paid & Buying Experience others in your area that have recently purchased.
#2 - Take some time to look through the posts in this discussion for owners issues with CR-V.
#3 - Be sure to read Varmint's excellent CR-V advisory and info in Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ
Based on several recent posts in this forum, Japan + Dunlops would seem a better choice than England + Duelers or England + Goodrich.
Any comments ?
I have a 2005 England built CRV with PTTR which was resolved with a fairly minor adjustment. Honda now seems to be on top of the issue and dealerships should know what to do to resolve it ... that is, if it exists at all in the one you select.
I am purchasing a new 2005 CRV LX 2wd for flat towing behind my motorhome. Dealer has several available. One vehicle was manufactured in Japan and is equipped with Dunlop Grandtrek tires.
Based on several recent posts in this forum, Japan + Dunlops would seem a better choice than England + Duelers or England + Goodrich. "
Odd that the dealer would have both manufacturor origins. Generally, eastern states get English models and western states get Japanese models.
I would go with the Japanese...
Show me one that has all those things on top of the loaded SE (AWD, Auto, VSA, ABS, sunroof, steering wheel controls for radio, cruise, Alloys....) for $23K
You can fit the homelink from Accord your self, if you want to spend $300 for the homelink. There is a site for Honda cars that happen to be SUV's, where people reported this being done.
I have done some internet perusing of dealer sites in the Kansas City area and found that most of them were listing the CR-V SE at $25,500 - $25,750 which is above the $25,250 MSRP on the Honda America site. This does not bode well for negiotiating down to the $23,500 range as others here have indicated. And, of course, Honda America is not offering any financing specials for the CR-V. I've got a couple of months before we plan to actually buy, but somehow I'm not optimistic that there will be any promos for the CR-V.
-Doug
It is a mix here in Northeast. I have had 3 Japan-originated Honda's, and the ones my sister/family have also have Japan origins (NH/MA). I did notice my local dealership has a mix in their Accords.
One note of caution. Any modifications to something like the seat can have an impact on the safety of the vehicle. For example, pushing the seat too far back might put your body behind the anchor point for the seat belt.
If anyone is familiar with the electrical system for the brake lights on a CRV, it would be nice to have some solutions for this problem available for others.
Can you be more specific on this rattling noise and anything you have heard re this? I am driving a 2001 CR-V automatic. It now has 65'000 miles but the rattling noise started earlier. It always appears under specific conditions: first it appeared whenever in between 3rd and overdrive, when starting from overdrive and slightly accelerating uphill yet keeping low revs. As soon as you let off gas pedal or push it harder (shifting to overdrive or 3rd respectively) the noise dissappears Now I get this noise even in between 2nd and 3rd, but in similar condition - steady and low revs. I always associated this with automatic transmission and so thought the service when I took the car in for test drive. However they said checking transmission would be quite costly and this noise does not bother me and I have not felt any change in performance. What would you suggest?
We later found out the noise was the result of having the timing belt adjusted too tight. First generation CR-Vs have a timing belt rather than a timing chain.
I'm not sure if that fits the issue your describing or not.
i now plug the end into the car adpator very carefully. i'm thinking the car's socket may have a loose wire. the fuse that keeps blowing is the one labeled "+B FR ACC" which is number 15 in the fuse box chart. there is another fuse number 18 which is for the "front accessory power socket" but this fuse is never affected.
both fuses are 15 amps. i recently upped the "+B FR ACC" fuse to 20 amps, but it also blew after a while.
2 questions: anyone else have this problem and know what causes it and how to solve it?
and: why are their 2 fuses for the front acc power socket -what purpose does the "+B FR ACC" fuse serve?
thank you
Have just joined the forum because I'm thinking of buying a 1999 Honda CR-V EX. There is no arm rest on the left of the passenger seat and it's a bit uncomfortable not to have any place for the passenger to place the left arm.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a workaround or an aftermarket product that might fit over the stowable table between the two bucket seats?
Thanks for any advice.
Merrill2