Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

crv4me

Great Info! How would one know if the OEM Bridgestone Dueler tires are the affected lot manufactured in England? Can you provide some information at to how to check the manufacturer's markings on the tires to see if they might also be causing some handling issues? Thanks for the post! This may help many of us who have handling issues with the 05's. Honda seems to be pretty guarded regarding these complaints. I opened an issue with American Honda and have not gotten so much as a response. Seeing as the dealerships always start with tire rotations, then alignments, maybe they know something is plaguing the tires. Good you have a quality dealership!

mikefm58

First, I never would have taken a car that hadn't been detailed. But it's too late now, so the next best thing I'd do is raise holly h*ll with American Honda. Maybe they can put some pressure on the dealer to take it back.

autobum

The service manager I spoke with said that there is a lot designation code with the letter "S" in it . He also said that only a certain lot or lot(s) were affected and not all the Bridgestone Duelers produced in England are faulty. He further indicated that the only way to really tell whether a particular tire is bad or not is to put it on a special balancing machine that indicates not only balance, but also how true the tire tracks. In addition, he indicated that this needs to be done after the tires have been driven for a while, suggesting some sort of latent behavior relative to the manufacturing defect. Evidently some of these tires were constructed/built incorrectly, and the defect does not produce hop, vibration, or balance issues, but does cause tracking issues at higher speeds (~40 mph and above on my car).

The tire that they identified as faulty on my car was from the bad lot and also looked bad when they tested it on the machine. This tire was moved around to different wheels and acted poorly in either front position, but did not produce noticeable pull when on the rear. It is now in the spare position waiting for a replacement. Also, all my tires look to be from the suspect lot and need to be checked more thoroughly.

Perhaps there are other legitimate issues related to PTTR, but I surely hopes this ends up helping at least some of us with this issue.

isellhondas

I can't believe any dealer would deliver an undetailed car!! Really??

isellhondas

Sorry, but this is not a "design oversight". It was just plain bad luck.

Stuff happens and that could have happened to any car.

I wouldn't bother installing a shield either since the chances of this happening agian are miniscule.

tntitan

I have always insisted that if the dealer tried to prep my car that I would not take delivery. Most of them give you beautiful swirl marks when they polish, wax or even wash a car. I inspect my paint more closely than anything on the car. I would just keep the loaner until they fix your paint.

shizzle

and i'm trying to take out the factory head unit, but i can't figure out how it comes out. Has anyone done it before that can help me out.

theracoon

The insurance company claims that the owner's manual says that a rear hitch is not allowed to be installed therefore we could not make a claim for them to fix this.

They have their information wrong (they're lieing!). Honda sells an accessory trailer hitch for the 1st Gen CR-V, so the Owners Manual would not include information saying that trailer hitches weren't allowed.

Good luck.

defielding

Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone has any of the small metal center caps with the Honda "H" on it that fit on the first generation CRV steel wheels. I require 2 of them and Honda wants $45.00Cnd apiece for them here in Calgary, Canada. I thought if anyone had a wreck or upgraded their wheels from the steel ones and no longer required the centre caps I could buy them off you. Thanks

kyfdx

Are you sure that isn't $45C for a set of four? Wow..that seems like a lot..(guess you thought so too).

mikefm58

I just did a quick search on ebay and there's an item of ONE cap for $31.....wow.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7970024732&category=439- 61

He has all 4 but the bidding is per cap.

There's another item though with a price of $5.99

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7970207965&category=439- 61&sspagename=WDVW

codester

I recently replaced the same kinds of caps for a 97 Accord and was quoted a similar price in the U.S.. I went to a local dealer in second hand hubcaps and got it for US $14.00. I've seen second hand hubcap distributors on the web, although I don't remember the names. You may want to Google and give that a try.

mark94115

I have a problem with my 2004 CRV. I've had it now for about 8 months and I do mostly city driving. I'm getting 13-14 MPG which is 40% less than dealer estimate. The dealer has not been any help at all and suggested that I speak with a regional service manager. Is anyone getting comparable mileage?

varmint

Dude! That's the lowest mileage I've ever seen for a CR-V. :lemon:

What has the dealer done for you so far? My first thought is to check and see if the parking brake isn't partially engaged.

gr8smile1966

I'm getting another brand new CR-V :shades: !!! The dealership agreed to take back the defective paint car and replace it with another!! I get to pick it up on Monday!! Quite frankly, I'm surprised at this.... but happy nonetheless!!

I'll bet this time it will have a spit shine on it (hopefully not literally!) when I pick it up.... and you can bet it won't leave the lot if it doesn't!!!

kyfdx

Wow... good deal.. I'm stunned..

mark94115

The dealer told me that if the check engine light isn't on, there's nothing for him to do. He ran an emissions check and said that everything is fine.

stevedebi

Are you a "jackrabbit start" person? The CR-V is very sensitive to all city mileage, especially starts and stops. I got 18.5 MPG on one fill up, and have since changed my driving style:

1. Set tire pressure to 35 PSI.

2. Accelerate slowly, that is, don't allow the RPMs to exceed 2500; if you back off of the pedal slightly, the car will downshift. Obviously, emergencies and freeway on-ramps are an exception. I find that "really slow" acceleration actually reduces MPG; the "brisk" but not too harsh method has been better for me. Along these lines, I think that the computer on the CR-V "learns" your driving patterns, so you may have to change styles for a while before the car catches on.

3. I attempt to keep my RPMs at about 1500 -1700 at 35 MPH, which should be quite possible on fairly flat terrain. Amazingly, when I first began watching my RPMs, I discovered that I was using 1900 - 2000 RPMs at 35 MPH, simply because I wasn't being careful and was allowing the RPMs to creep up. So I discovered that it is my choice to go either 1700 (on average) or 1950 RPMs.

4. If you use the same route every day, see if you can speed up (slightly) or slow down (reasonably) between stop lights, so that you don't have to stop, but rather slow down, at stop lights. The CR-V weighs between 3350 (LX FWD) and 3500 (EX) lbs, and that is a lot of steel and plastic to get moving. If you can get through that light by slowing down rather than stopping, it will really help. I highly recommend using a sensible approach to this idea, and not annoying every other driver on the road. I have found I can manage to be frugal and not obnoxious to others who want to rush ahead so they can stop at that next red light.

I get about 21.5 - 22 MPG in the city now. Not great, but acceptable for an SUV. BTW, I get 26.5 - 27 MPG at a constant 78 MPH when I am on the freeway during vacations. At high altitudes and speeds of around 65 MPH, I have achieved between 29.5 and 31 MPG. But that occurs very rarely.

I have a 2003 EX.

theracoon

I'm getting 13-14 MPG

How are you measuring and calculating your mileage? Miles driven divided by fuel tank size? Or actual miles driven divided by the actual amount of fuel you put in the tank?

theracoon

the Honda "H" on it that fit on the first generation CRV steel wheels. I require 2 of them and Honda wants $45.00Cnd apiece for them here in Calgary, Canada.

In the US, the list price for the 1st Gen steel wheel center caps is about US $23.That should be less than $30 Canadian. They're available on the internet for about US $19 + shipping.

bob05

What an excellent post Stevedebi;

If everybody drives their CRV this way, they are likely to get 22 mpg in the city. I learned to drive this way from my second car --a Prius hybrid--and then applied it back to the 05 CRV with this result:

Jan-April 1, 05: very cold New England Winter with lots of defrosting and heating: average = 22.8 mpg.

Since April 1: 24.6 mpg.

This is almost totally inter-suburban commuting at about 35 mph, with a gaggle of very short trips (soccer, groceries) on weekends. Part of every other tank (so perhaps 25%) is at highway speeds.

The only thing I would add to Stevedebi's excellent advice is something I learned from the hybrid: we waste a ton of gas driving up to stoplights and signs. I use the "football field" approach: since I know my route, I watch 100 yards ahead. If there is a red light, I simply coast --why spend money to get to a stop? As Stevedebi points out, you then have to spend money to re-accelerate. If I see it turn green at 50 yards or even as I approach the "red zone" (sorry), then I go back to the gas...but I still have some momentum on my side. And I think Stevedebi is right that "brisk" acceleration will gain you some momentum, and then you switch to a smooth drive at RPM's under 2000. The investment in acceleration will gain you momentum and mileage so long as you smooth it out after 35mph.

One other thing: in the suburbs: why not coast down hills, especially if there is a stop sign or light at the end?

The numbers above speak pretty clearly: 22.8 in a dead cold winter is pretty good. And I don't have any trouble with traffic. These are 30 or 35 mph zones, with local cops always setting speed traps at commuting time to catch those at 40 or above. So I am saving on speeding tickets too.

Anyhow, Stevedebi has it down. I would almost think he has a hybrid too.

fboydon

Hi,

I had this same problem on my 2002 CR-V. I only notice this I had my car serviced for brake pads. I had to go back twice to the dealer for them to look at it. And on my second visit I told them it happens only when turning hard left/u turn. Where do you think can I get TSB and what is TSB anyway. The technician told me He already recall he had this problem before but Hes not sure if my car will still be under warranty since I already got 61kmiles on it. Is TSB same as a recall?

Just want to find out if I am going to pay for something that's Honda's issue...

Thanks,
Ferdee

lblair

We got our CR-V right after Christmas, and love it.Traded our gas-hog Land Rover Disco. Everything was going fine until about a month ago. Got in it one morning , turned the key.. and "click" was all I got. Did it 3 more times and then it started right up. Hmm? I thought I did something wrong. Never mentioned it to my husband. A week later we were going out in it together and it did it to him. He then told me it had happened a few times to him at work, when he went out to lunch or when he stopped for gas. So it wasn't me. I called the dealer and then said bring it in and leave it. They don't have loaners, which is a total drag. The dealer is 40 miles away. They couldn't take it for a few days, so when it didn't happen again, I cancelled the appt. A week went by, all was fine. Last week was the topper.. I was on my way out of town to meet up with a friend. I was gassing up and "click" EIGHT times. I was just about to call a tow truck and it started. Someone on another forum said it could be because I have other keys on my key ring, but my husband doesn't have anything, just the Honda key. The green key light doesn't flash or anything. It's steady. How likely is it that we both have defective keys? What the heck else could it be? I must say I am really disappointed in this vehicle. it's brand new. It was a bit humiliating sitting there with my friend as a passenger. She had bought a Ford Escape at the same time we got the Honda.She says "I told you you should have gotten the Escape". I don't like Fords, and told her I would never own an American car, that Honda was more reliable. Now I look pretty stupid.. thanks to Honda
I suppose it will have to go to the dealer, but I don't see how they can reproduce the problem. Both my husband and I have tried and it only does it randomly. Any ideas?
Thanks for bearing with me!

kyfdx

TSB
Technical Service Bulletin..

I don't have the actual reference number.. The service advisor can pull it up on the internet.. My service advisor had never heard of the problem, but that is what he did, and he had no trouble finding it..

I doubt you will get it done under warranty, and it is not the same as a recall.. I think it was a transmission mount.. they loosen it, then shove it over about a half-inch, then tighten it back down.. I didn't pay for it, but it is only a half-hour of labor, which is $36 at my dealer.. They weren't positive that was the problem, but since they couldn't find any other problem, they assumed that was it, and it did solve the problem.. For $36, it can't hurt to find out.. It sounds more than minor, but it really isn't.... very simple fix..

regards,
kyfdx

mikefm58

Outstanding.......

Kudos to the dealership, and maybe Honda regional twisted their arm a bit. Sure sounds like a complete turn around from when you picked it up.

I'm sure Honda regional "ripped em a new one" since they delivered a vehicle that wasn't prep'ed.

fboydon

kyfdx
Thanks Men.
I just found out the TSB number on the other site i think alldata.
The technician who drove my car last week seems positive that it is in did the transmission mount problem, and yes he did say that he needs to loosen some nuts so that he can move the transmission/engine to the right...
For those who have the same problem please refer to this TSB that I goe from alldata site.

TSB 04-005 Jan 04 Engine/Transmission Mount - Noise
on Left Turns

Cheers,
Ferdee

hitecpro

I recently bought honda crv 02 from private owner and have question about climate control: it has 3 wheels to manipulate temperature inside the car, when I turn right wheel to the position "window" or "window/legs" a/c light goes on and can’t be turn off, aircondition starts working(check pipes under the hood-they getting cold), when I turn the wheel to other position for example “face/legs”, a/c button can be turn off/on. Is it how it supposes to work? Called service at local Honda, they said that’s how it works.
I appreciate if someone check it and may be I have nothing to worry about.

defielding

lblair: before you get down on your vehicle the solution sounds like it could be very simple. It sounds like what happens when one or both of your battery cables are either a little loose or corroded. There will be enough electricity to run lights and things but often not a good enough connection for starting, thus will work sporadically. If you see any corrosion, clean the battery terminals with baking soda and water, (rubbing with a wire brush). Carefully tighten the bolts holding the cables to the battery terminals. Also follow the cable from the negative pole of the battery to where it connects to the vehicle (for grounding) and see if the bolt connecting it there is tight. If this is not the cause of the problem, then another possibility could be the starter motor brushes.

stevedebi

" Anyhow, Stevedebi has it down. I would almost think he has a hybrid too."

Nope, I'm still paying for my CR-V, and the only one that would fit my needs is the Escape Hybrid, which I wouldn't buy in the first year anyway. Our other car is a Honda Civic (bought just before the HCH came out), and we need one of our two cars to have a large capacity for trips.

I learned my stuff from the Prius forum. I don't think I'll be able to match your 24.6; you have a 5 speed transmission in that '05, whereas I have the 4 speed.

stevedebi

" I doubt you will get it done under warranty, and it is not the same as a recall.."

TSB is a safety fix, and should be covered by Honda at no cost to the consumer.

rockycow33

The climate control is programmed as you describe from the factory. There is a way to reprogram the climate control so that the A/C can be turned off when in the window defrost position. Try this to deactivate auto a/c feature:
1) Turn vehicle off
2) Turn fan knob off
3) Turn temperature knob all the way to the left (blue area)
4) Turn vent knob counter clockwise to panel only setting (next to max a/c)
5) Hold down both air recirculation button and a/c button while starting car
6) Continue holding for 7 seconds until air recirculation button stops flashing

to reactivate:
1) turn vehicle off
2) turn fan know off
3) turn temperature knob all the way to the left (blue area)
4) turn vent know all the way to the right (defrost position)
5) hold down both air recirculation button and a/c button while starting car.
6) continue holding for 7 seconds until air recirculation button stops flashing

hope this works for you
rockycow

kyfdx

TSBs can be for many different things, not just safety... It isn't covered under warranty..

kyfdx

This works... I did it on my '02 CR-V.. Now, I have the choice of running the A/C compressor or not, when using the defroster..

It still comes on automatically when you use either of the defrost modes, but at least this way, you can push the button and turn it off.

regards,
kyfdx

bowled_over

I purchased a new Honda CR-V. The dealer tried to push the benefits of sthg called Auto Butler Vehicle Protection Program which includes applying 10 six monthly applications of paint sealant and fabriguard (no leather) over five year period for $800 upfront.

Based on previous owners experiences, do any of you use such a protection, is it really required and is it really good (value for $800)

lblair

defielding..
The battery looks fine. The car is only a few months old. Had 4 miles on it when we took it from the dealership.
I called 2 dealers to see if they had any ideas without having to take it in. (trying to avoid the long drive in 2 cars) Neither of them mentioned the key.
It hasn't done it again since my first post.
Thanks for trying

mikefm58

Run, don't walk, away from that stuff. It's 99.999% dealer profit.

theracoon

I also replied in the other thread you posted.

Save your money. Wash and wax your own car, and buy some ScotchGuard for the fabric if you're worried about protecting it.

JM2C

tntitan

One of the biggest ripoffs known to man. That should tell you quite a bit about your dealership.....find a honest mechanic or you will be taken advantage of over and over.

jams1

Good Work Michelle!

It appears my wife's crv has the same problem. It was fixed once already @ 75,000 and now it needs to be done again at 133,000 miles.

Do you have any helpful hints or contact info. I would sure like to have honda pay for the fix!

stevedebi

"
TSBs can be for many different things, not just safety... It isn't covered under warranty.."

Ummm, I thought TSB stood for Transportation Safety Bulletin?

kyfdx

Technical Service Bulletin..

bob05

I'm not at all surprised that you've been to the Prius forum. We drive alike.

And think alike: bought the CRV because I didn't want to test the Escape in the first year.

Anyhow, the 24.6mpg for April dropped to 24.2 at the end of the month
because April was a chilly month here in Boston --and my wife insists on running the heat. What a sissy.

That's another tip: turn off the heat and you'll gain probably 1-2mpg. Same thing for the AC (in spades) when it's hot.

Your post did cause me to monitor the tach more than the odometer. I find myself in the suburbs sticking to around 1500rpm at 30mph.

Where are you located, Stevedebi?

isellhondas

Using the heater has no effect on gas mileage. A modern car's A/C places very little drag on the engine and will affect mileage very little.

kizhe

Bob05: Radiator "radiates" heat to the street and this energy is wasted anyway..
Heater is a small additional regulated radiator and it "radiates" heat to the cabin.
It's better to heat your wife then the street :-).
Driver's "right foot" (driving habits) is the most important contributing factor to gas mileage. Imagine putting an egg between your right foot and the gas pedal :-).
Driving CR-V EX 03, I did not notice significant effect of A/C on gas mileage,
but in theory there should be some.

varmint

I average 24-25 mpg with my 1999 CR-V. I do not spare the A/C or heat. During cold weather months, I typically see a drop to 22-23 mpg. During warmer weather, I'll get 25-28 mpg even with the A/C on.

FWIW, I got 25.1 mpg from my last tank. My daily commute is about 60% highway with the rest on town roads. The traffic at the rte. 95 split (south of Boston) gets me every morning, so part of my drive is stop and go.

hitecpro

Thank you rockycow, works now, very valubale information, looks like these settings are for worm climate states,

stevedebi

" Where are you located, Stevedebi?"

Los Angeles.

stevedebi

I find that using the A/C takes away about 1 MPG in the City, no real difference on the highway that I have observed.

When the compressor kicks in, I feel the effects of A/C on the engine acceleration (at lower RPMs - wind the engine up it goes like the Energizer bunny). If only it used electric air conditioning...

stevedebi

"
I average 24-25 mpg with my 1999 CR-V. I do not spare the A/C or heat. During cold weather months, I typically see a drop to 22-23 mpg. During warmer weather, I'll get 25-28 mpg even with the A/C on. "

I'm guessing you have an LX? The Gen 1 CR-V has a smaller engine...

theracoon

I'm guessing you have an LX? The Gen 1 CR-V has a smaller engine...

The Varmint has an EX 5 speed manual, same as mine. Although mine is the faster Milano Red color.

I also get 24-25 MPG around town during the non-winter months, and 28+ MPG on the highway at 65 MPH. I get 2-3 MPG lower in winter. Running the A/C at highway speeds drops it 1-2 MPG depending on how frequently the compressor kicks in. Driving faster affects MPG far more than running the A/C.

JM2C