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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks Varmint for the VIN info.

    hawaiicrv, my VIN is JHLRD68595C00****. Let's compare to see if the location of manufacturer and other info match up. Maybe the people on this Board can start to narrow it down as to where the faulty vehicles originated. Honda probably already knows where the faulty vehicles were made but I'm sure they plan on keeping it a secret while the Lemon Law arbitrations wind their way through the system. Steve
  • This seems to be a new issue to the board - my 202 CRV rolls a foot or so after I put it into Park. You can actually see and hear the gear shift click into place after you take your foot off the brake. It happened after some recall work was done on shift cable. The maintenance guys say its "within the range of normal" but I disagree. anyone else out there had this issue?
  • armandarmand Posts: 178
    Good practice is to put the emergency brake on, take your foot off the brake (to let it roll until the emergency brake takes hold and then put it into park. This saves strain on the transmission.
  • Want you toknow that my car with the same intial complaint now has 10,700 miles and it is not gets worse. Have you done anything about this?
  • ebmlebml Posts: 2
    Hello. Okay, my situation is a little complicated, but I'll do my best to explain. I would appreciate any of your input.

    I have a 2003 Honda CRV with 50,000 miles. I have brought it in for all it's scheduled check ups and have never had any problems until....

    A little over a month ago I was hit by a drunk driver from behind. I was at a complete stop at a red light. It was a "hit and run" so i never did find out how fast he was going...I'm assuming about 40mph. He was going fast enough to cause my car to hit the car in front of me. Anyway, everyone is fine but my car has suffered. There was 9000 dollars worth of damage. The reason I'm telling you about the wreck is because it might help you understand more about where the car was damaged. Mostly the back door/trunk area and some of the front bumper. At least that's all that was visibly damaged from the outside.

    Sooo, my car was towed to the shop that the insurance company reccomended. It stayed there for three weeks. I pick it up and all seems fine except the air conditioning and heater are not working as well as they had, but I really didn't want to complain about it and wasn't sure if it was my imagination or not.

    About a week after I had gotten it back from the shop I notice the temperature gauge is on the H, so I immediately drove it back to the shop that fixed it, about 10 miles from where i noticed the temp gauge on H. When I arrived, the mechanic checked it and added some water to the engine coolant. He said that when they replaced the engine coolant there may have been an air bubble giving a false reading of it being at the correct level. Soo, I say okay and i'm on my way with the temp gauge back to normal.

    However, I forgot to mention the air conditioner to him, but I did mention it to the insurance adjuster whebn she called. She said that maybe it was low on freon. So I told her that it was due for a 50,000 mile check up and that I'd get the freon checked then.

    Well, about two days later I noticed that my car sounded "louder" than usual. Again, was i just imagining this? No, a day or so later it was really loud then it would go back to normal sounding then get loud for a few seconds then sound normal for 20 min etc. The following day(today) I'm leaving my driveway to bring it back to the shop and it's REALLY loud and then a sort of crash sound. The car still ran and the air conditioner blew air, just not cool air. (I live in South Louisiana)

    So, when i get it to the shop the mechanic said it was the compressor, but was puzzled as to how the wreck would have caused the compressor to fail. So, I said well maybe it didn't. I did not want to have the insurance company pay for something not caused by the wreck but I had a hard time assuming otherwise. The insurance Co. did not want to pay for it at first, but they gave in and are. But I'm still not comfortable with the whole situation especially taking into account the whole overheated engine situation.

    I did a little research on air compressors and why they fail and here are my concerns:

    1. Did the original mistake with the engine coolant, thus an overheated engine, cause the compressor to fail? If so, are there going to be other problems cropping up from this first mistake?

    2. Is it just a coincidence that my compressor went out around the time of the wreck? If so, what caused it? I read that if you don't get to the root of what cased the compressor to fail, the new compressor will fail as well.

    2. If it fails again, who should be held resoponsible? The insurance co of the guy who hit me? The mechanic? Me?

    ---I would rather get the answers to these questions from someone other than the mechanics. They have really been nice and i do not want to insult them. If I start asking questions they will think that I'm questioning their work, which I'm not. I think that they did a good job, but I still want to get to the root of the failed compressor.

  • Hi Steve -
    Glad to have someone else in my corner! Sorry it's for a not so fun reason, though. My VIN is JHLRD68505C0000***. According to the service manager here, those last three digits are supposed to be the number of the car off the line. I filed for arbitration mid-January and got a date for 4/6, but we started hearing from the DCCA in mid-February. Let's see how this goes, shall we? I'll talk to my attorney about filing with NHTSA - wasn't sure if I should wait or not. Thanks for your help.
  • hawaiicrv,

    You may want to have your attorney look at the NHTSA complaints also. I, too, am an attorney and I wouldn't mind talking to your attorney. Ask him if it's OK with him. Just give me his last name if it's OK as I'll be able to locate him in my Bar Directory or if he prefers, he can give me a ring. I assume he is on the Big Island. I'm sure Honda is getting all their troops together so it doesn't hurt for us to do the same. Let me know how I can help. Steve
  • Not a problem - use the name Jung, that should do it and they can refer you to my attorney at the office. Is there anyway to trade our email addresses here without making them public so we can discuss this off the boards. My brother is also an attorney and will be helping me right before I go in (he's from Calif.). I agree that we should start joining up here to take this on since Honda has been unwilling to face up to the problem.
  • hawaiicrv,

    I asked the Board monitor if she can do the e-mails for us. When she responds, I'll let you know. I see a F. Jung in Kona in my Bar Directory. I assume this is the one. Let me know. If it is, I'll give him a ring and we'll figure out a way to communicate off the Board. Steve
  • That should be the one - his wife, Carol, is doing the footwork with me. FYI, I'm a sistah! Buying this car was my husband's idea, car make was my choice, though (he's feeling pretty awful about it now!).
  • hawaiicrv,

    Sorry about the gender confusion seestah. I will call the attorney tomorrow. If you want, let them know to expect a call from me. Steve
  • I just picked up my '05 CR-V SE today. I bought the longer Honda (made by Thule) roof box. At 65 mph, I can barely tell it's there. After listening to aftermarket rack systems, I will use the factory set up from now on. Just thought I'd share.
  • bob05bob05 Posts: 27

    Does that apply to just the roof rack (cross bars) too (I mean the noise)? I would add a bike rack or perhaps a shell later.

  • emseeemsee Posts: 4
    My old style 01 CRV with only 30,000 miles on the clock makes a binding/rubbing type noise when turning right only with the steering wheel on full lock. It is sometimes not there and also not so noticeable if i go slow. It became noticeable 2/3 months ago and has seemed to be been getting worse recently. Any ideas please?
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Could be a CV Joint. Does it sound like it's coming frmo the front or the rear? Does it ever happen when turning to the left?

    Also could be the RT4WD fluid needs replacing. Is your's an AWD model? If so, check out the link below.

    varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #3, 22 Nov 2003 12:10 pm
  • emseeemsee Posts: 4
    Doesn't happen when turning left and 95% sure it's coming from the rear
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Then I'm 95% sure it's the rear diff fluid. It's an easy fix. Just like changing oil or transmission fluid. Read up on that link for details.
  • to4ecrvto4ecrv Posts: 2
    well i actually had the same exact problem butthe solution to my problem was i changed the spark plug wires,plugs. the check engine light kept flashing so i went to honda-tech where i found a website that hosted the codes for the check engine light and the reading i got was misfiring in cyl 4 . suggestion was before taking to dealer to try replacing the wires and plugs which also give you the smae diagnosis as a bad cyl . here is the website hope this helps you out
  • emseeemsee Posts: 4
    Thanks for advice. If it is the rear diff fluid how urgent is it to change it? Also is any damage being done when it starts making that groaning type noise on full lock?
  • i bought 2005 honda crv less than 3 months ago. right away heavy foul smell from rear right of car. gas usage poor. less than 18 overall mpg's. then 3 weeks after purchase check engine light went on and off by itself 2 times. code problem relating to air/fuel metering. honda repaired. mpg remain unchanged and poor. last week, at about 5500 miles and about month and a half since honda repair check engine light came on and off again.code again related to air/fuel metering. car is currently being repaired at honda dealership. defective intake manifold valve i am told. they will continue to analyze the car for further problems. at first oil change our oil was quite dirty and smelled of fuel. anyone having similar problems or have any advise?
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    How long has it been happening? It's not an urgent thing, but I wouldn't let it go for more than a month. The fluid is wearing out, but it's not like an engine running sans oil.
  • mantramantra Posts: 7
    Just got a new 2005 CRV-EX with the 6 cd changer. Anyone have a problem with some of the tracks skipping sometimes?
  • I own a CRV 2001, which now has 81,000 miles. I recently noticed that when I was idling, the engine was kind of rough. This prompted me to bring it in for a valve adjustment, as I had a similar problem at about 57,000 miles (and adjusted my valves at that point). Anyway, I just got back from the dealership where I get my auto work done. They told me that a) they were unable to adjust one of the valves b) I should not be driving my car much at all, as the valves may burn and ruin the engine c) that the likely cost of repair is going to be $3000. They were able to adjust some of the valves, such that I don't noticed the rough idling, and so said I would be OK to at least drive home. Needless to say, I am extremely unhappy and upset. I have been getting regular maintenance done at the Honda Dealership.... it's not like I've been neglecting to attend to the Valves at all. Is $3000 for real? I have NEVER had such a problem with my previous Honda (an Accord). I'm not even sure what to do at this point, whether it's worth it to get it fixed, or whether I should give up on this vehicle and try to buy a used Toyota with whatever money I can get for it. Any advice or thoughts about my problem, would be much appreciated.

    michelle J.
  • jd27jd27 Posts: 4
    I am searching for the most direct instructions on how to remove and replace the micron A/C filter on my 2001 CRV.I know where the slot is located that houses the filter, but there happens to be a bracket blocking me from simply pulling out the old filter. Any suggestions would be appreciated (before I go dismantling my whole dashboard)
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    a bracket blocking me from simply pulling out the old filter.

    The bolts holding the bracket on are 10 mm. I remove all of the bolts from the left end, then loosen all of the bolts on the right and remove enough of them then I swing the bracket down out of the way enough to remove the filter.

  • emseeemsee Posts: 4
    Thanks for advice on this. I spoke to my local Honda dealer here in the U.K. about it and it is a problem that is known to them. They are not recalling the autos but if you tell them about the problem they will replace the rear diff fluid free of charge if the auto is under 5 years old! Hope this info is useful to U.K. owners.
  • I just bought a new 2005 CRV yesterday. The buying experience was great. After reading the posts on Edmunds, I made sure to test drive the CRV I was buying. There was no pull to the right, which was a relief. I looked at all of the CRV's and asked to drive the one that had the dead-on straight steering wheel. The cars also have a sticker inside the drivers door jam which tells you when and where the car was made. Most said Oct 04 or Nov. 04. The one that had a straight steering wheel said Dec. 04, which was the newest one they had on the lot. I'm in Maryland and all were made in the U.K. I love the car, but found the XM Ready radio misleading. I went home that night and tried to convert my current XM radio subscription to the Honda and the car I got did not have this option even though the radio has an XM button on it, etc....very frustrating.
  • armandarmand Posts: 178
    Its XM ready meaning that you have to buy and have installed a XM unit that works with your auto radio - available from your friendly Honda dealer. Yes it is misleading.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,551
    Not misleading but the salesperson did a poor job of explaining things.
  • armandarmand Posts: 178
    Doing a poor job of explaining things is misleading even if not intentional.
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