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My service rep told me that this should not be happening on a car of my age and mileage. I agreed and called Honda. I'm waiting to see what considerations they will possibly offer. With 2 other Honda's in the family, this failure is really a disappointment. Personally while I'd rather not be stuck with the bill at all, I'd be happy if they would at least cover the parts ($775).
Jack
Jack
Suzanne
did you try rotating the tires now that the vehicle has had the tires re-balanced and re-aligned?
You might want to post this as well in our new Honda CR-V: AC Issues topic!
MrShiftright
Host
CR-V: AC compressor issues topic
See you there if you wish to follow up!
MrShiftright
Host
tidester, host
I'm going to move your post concerning the CR-V AC compressor problems to our new CR-V: AC compressor issues topic.
See you there!
Host
I brought it to my local repair shop, who thought it was the car's "computer." However, replacing this part did not fix the problem as the car was still spitting out a number of different repair codes. They suggested that I take it to the dealer.
Dealer did the same tests and were unsure what the problem was. They suggested it might be a cylinder head, which would cost $3500. However, since they weren't sure and the Check Engine Light had not come back on since they reset it, they suggested letting the car ride and see what happens. After a week, the Check Engine Light has not come back on, and we have not had a problem with the car idling low.
My concern is this is our family car, and my wife often drives it with our two young children. I don't want her to get stuck at some point if the car breaks down. At the same time, the car has very low mileage (48k), and I'd like to keep it for awhile. Any suggestions on: a) what the problem might be, and/or b) would you think about trading the car in now for a newer, more reliable car? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I just took it to the dealer who claims that it's the "break relay engaging" and that the noise is normal in the 2006 model. They claim that they test drove another new model on the lot and the same thing was happening.
While I would like to believe this is true, I can't imagine that on a brand new car this is normal.
Anyone else experiencing this?
I had a wonderful 2000 CRV however it was totaled in a garage fire and in December 05 purchased a 2006 CRV-LX. I only had the car 5 minutes before the "rear door open light" appeared lit on my dashboard, although the door was closed and locked. I have been to Honda twice already and the light still comes on intermittently.
Yesterday, after driving in the rain, and shutting down I noticed that my rear tail lights, dashboard lights, and front (orange-yellowish)light would not shut off. I drove to Honda and upon examination they say now that a box called a "multiplex", (which coordinates the lights), is bad and will have to be replaced. Has anybody has a similar experience and does this meas that the CRV is going downhill???? Thanx
Don't worry, just have them replace it. Stuff happens even to Hondas.
You know, 13 screens and theater seating? Ba-da-bum!
Now back to our regularly scheduled topic.
I had a wonderful 2000 CRV however it was totaled in a garage fire and in December 05 purchased a 2006 CRV-LX. I only had the car 5 minutes before the "rear door open light" appeared lit on my dashboard, although the door was closed and locked. I have been to Honda twice already and the light still comes on intermittently.
Yesterday, after driving in the rain, and shutting down I noticed that my rear tail lights, dashboard lights, and front (orange-yellowish)light would not shut off. I drove to Honda and upon examination they say now that a box called a "multiplex", (which coordinates the lights), is bad and will have to be replaced. Has anybody has a similar experience and does this meas that the CRV is going downhill???? Thanx
My rear cargo area light and the dashboard indicator for the tailgate flickers when going over bumps on the highway. Told the dealer, they could not replicate, of course. I asked them to replace the switch, they say they are not going to throw parts at it without knowing the cause.
I am pretty sure it is the tailgate switch.
I just took it to the dealer who claims that it's the "break relay engaging" and that the noise is normal in the 2006 model. They claim that they test drove another new model on the lot and the same thing was happening.
While I would like to believe this is true, I can't imagine that on a brand new car this is normal.
Anyone else experiencing this?
Ask the dealer if knows anything about "reverse lock out solenoid." It prevents you from engaging reverse gear in an automatic equipped vehicle while moving forward. No such thing on a manual version, no noise, no clicking...
Have a nice holiday!
Thanks,
TJV
Im brand new to this forum. I have a 97 crv and in warm weather it like to get real hot.....seems like it will overheat. the temp gauge will keep rising and rising. I have noticed that the electric fan on the rad does not come on. I checked the fuse and its fine. Any ideas? Could it be the sensor?......where is the sensor located?
Thanks everyone!!
Thanks,
TJV
You will find it very easy to replace the head if you have rebuilt any engine before. You don't need to replace the whole engine, just the head. While at it, replace with with one from Acura Integra that had VTEC and replace that computer Integra's as well, and voila, you have a CR-VTEC.
The new head with valve train:
12100-P75-020 CYLINDER HEAD ASSY. $993.43
from Majestic Honda
Get a Helms Manual. It is the same one Honda techs use at the dealerships, it is the Official Honda manual.
Im brand new to this forum. I have a 97 crv and in warm weather it like to get real hot.....seems like it will overheat. the temp gauge will keep rising and rising. I have noticed that the electric fan on the rad does not come on. I checked the fuse and its fine. Any ideas? Could it be the sensor?......where is the sensor located?
Thanks everyone!!
Looks like the sensor or the relay are dead. You can isolate the replay by switching the A/C relay with the cooling fan relay and see if it works.
The sensor is threaded into the radiator, I think.
It is wierd because I'm almost sure that Honda does follow these pages. I've seen issues corrected in one model year - that seemed to be based on some kind of customer input.
Mark
I've had the oil changed at 5,000, and got the basic 10,000 service. At 15,000 miles I felt the Service Writer was trying to sell me a bunch of things, that I doubt I really need. One was draining and changing the differential fluid. I forgot some of the others. I only wanted and oil change and that is what I ended up with.
My question is, what really needs to be done and what is/are the unnecessary extras.
I've had the oil changed at 5,000, and got the basic 10,000 service. At 15,000 miles I felt the Service Writer was trying to sell me a bunch of things, that I doubt I really need. One was draining and changing the differential fluid. I forgot some of the others. I only wanted and oil change and that is what I ended up with.
My question is, what really needs to be done and what is/are the unnecessary extras.
Well, you can follow the FREE book they give you, it is called OWNER's MANUAL. Depending on your driving habits and conditions you can follow Normal or Severe schedule. But, changing the differential fluid is up to you. Honda does not recommend it this soon, but if you develop noise when making tight turns, then the fluid needs to be replaced. I just replaced it on mine, I have an 05 EX with about 15,000 miles. It cost me about $8 for 1 botttles of fluid, and $4 for the fill tube. The tube can be used to fill tranny as well (I have manual). I am going to replace the tranny fluid this weekend as well. It is not needed, but I do it as part of preventative maintenance. I also change oil at 5000 mile intervals, but with 0W-20 Mobil 1 and OEM filter.
On the other hand, the Edmunds Maintenance Guide is right here. :shades:
Oh yeah, it's free too.
Steve, Host
Oh, man, what did you do! Now we - the ones that love to check into their MANUAL - are gonna be extinct. :P
Just think, every morning at 3 am, Honda will wirelessly connect with your car and update the manual, the maps, recode the tranny shift points based on your previous day's habits, and then email you your mpg summary and maintenance reminders.
Steve, Host
You didn't see that coming, did you
I have an 05' SE also, and follow to the Severe Maint. Schedule - I consider it a good idea, plus I tend to over maintain my cars (I think that's one reason to have a perfectly running 01 Galant with over 107K, even after some atrocities done to it by incompetent service garages).
Very easy to remember for me: oil change at every 5k, tire rotation every 10K and looking up the aforementioned favorite reading material (a.k.a. Owners Manual) every 30K.
Now regarding the Dual Pump Fluid, changing much sooner and much more frequently is one of the few "Dealer Recommended" Services that actually is worth doing. There are a few cases of the DP Fluid breaking by or even before 30K. Mine failed at 17K, Dealer was well aware of that and replaced it under warranty; I'm sure Honda is aware of the issue too.
Another small thing you might wanna check is the cabin air filter. Recommended check at 15K and replacement at 30K. Mine actually was quite nasty at 15K so I replaced it - it's cheap, especially if you do it yourself and buy online. We discussed this about a month ago on the thread and someone was kind enough to post the procedure from a 2003 CRV Manual (it's left out of the 2005 Manual).
Hope this helps
Chris
But I'm sure it's coming, sooner or later, no matter how it might sound today. It would be different that the sometimes generalized schedules we see online; your link though is pretty good, so I guess I'm in trouble .
My '02 CRV was bought used with 68,000 miles on it and I've had it in twice for oil changes. I've had two repair issues, one being the air conditioner compressor failure which I detailed in a different post, and a failure of a air/fuel sensor that requires a replacement. I'm doing that myself since its a simple matter of unplugging the sensor and removing it from the exhaust system.
Since I don't know how well the previous owner serviced this vehicle, I am planning to have the differential oil changed and possibly the transmission oil also. Then I'll get the vehicle back on to the normal service schedule.
Jack
They Can't do that, unless they have developed Johnny Mnemonic technology and can get into my brain
The service center say there is plenty of brake pad left, and the noise is just from the pads. It seems too loud to be just noisy pads, but I am no expert.
It seems as though something is working loose and then rubbing against the disk. There is light scoring on the left rear disk, but the service center say it is rust, but I never saw rust form in a perfect circle before.
I have changed the oil in the diff just in case it is diff-related, but no luck.
Does anybody have any ideas about what this could be?
Chris
TSB 004-06A is on All Data.com.
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1077264000000_1078214400000_04-006/40061.html
I did not see that as part of scheduled maintnance, but the dealer suggested doing it once a year. They use Molykote-77, which is what Honda specifies in the repair manual as well.
Dan
Purchased an '04 CRV for my 17 year old, 14K miles (driven by a little old lady on Sundays - to the drag races... )
The Bridgestone tire sticker says ~26PSI - is that right? It looks like I have four flat tires!
Neat car - when my son lets me drive it...