Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

mikefm58

I found where it's leaking, about an inch or two below the radiator cap in the front, not down to where the fins are. It's about a 2 inch horizontal tiny crack. Anyone know of any epoxy or sealer that might work?

kyfdx

CR-V: AC Compressor Issues

drive62

...which caused CRV's going down the highway to look like a space shuttle at lift off.

Really?? With all the CR-Vs on the road I would have thought I would have seen this HAD IT BEEN TRUE.

If you are really interested in how the issue was resolved look around these forums.

fiveeleven

Thanks for the suggestions. No, I don't have a speed pass on my keyring. Lastest update: Hadn't had any problems (with or without other keys/fobs) since my first post until last week. It wouldn't crank and I only had the Honda key on the ring. I tried it three or four times, then for the heck of it flipped the key around (buttons facing dash) and it started. Not sure if that had anything to do with it or just coincidence. Hasn't happened again since, although I haven't really been paying attention which way the key is in.

stevedebi

"What was Honda's final solution to the oil drip on the hot engine manifold which caused CRV's going down the highway to look like a space shuttle at lift off."

They didn't change anything except the oil filter gasket. Since the fires stopped, it becomes evident that the car was safe - if the oil was changed properly.

I haven't heard if they changed the engine design for 2007.

fussycrvowner

Strange...I always thought the keys work in either direction. Sounds like a bad ignition switch? I guess you could try spraying an electronic contact cleaner into the slot where they key goes. Only thing to be concerned about is if it washes off the lubricant already in the ignition swith. Best of luck getting the dealer to resolve.

ralph9

Thank you for your reply. Sorry if I "gored your ox" and I humbly apologize. Stevedebi provided the answer, with the unknown being whether the oil filter location on the 2007 model was moved to prevent oil from leaking on the hot engine manifold thus eliminating the possibility of human error. I will further checkout that issue when the new ones come out. Apparently it was not changed on the 2006 model. Best wishes, Ralph

fussycrvowner

I just had one more thought: It is possible that the key may not have been cut exactly. I tried to have an extra key made for a Dodge Stratus and was told by the dealer that they couldn't make one until the key cutter had a new cutting wheel put on. I guess the tolerances of the points are so close that any tiny bit off will cuse the car not to start.

vtecraze

I read lots of other car users commenting on the use of K&N drop in filter. The benefits of better power and mileage are too good to be true. If you are already using one in your 2004 ~2006 CRV that comes with an K20A iVtec engine, can i have your frank opinion whether the K&N filter does measure up?

stever

Check out the K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? discussion too.

vtecraze

Thanks - read lots of conflicting views, more negatives than conclusive...not that i'm bent on the pro but i want to hear it from CRV iVtec users. My fella CRV users who use K&N drop in filter, please do speak out! :confuse:

updaquest

Hello,

Yes, seems one is currently in effect if you check out http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A53664-2004Dec9.html site.

Basically, NHSTA re-opened their closed preliminary investigation and Honda responded that "suppliers will add silicone to the gasket formula to prevent the stickiness from developing in future vehicles." Apparently, "two oil-filter suppliers, one in Japan and one in China, changed the formulation of materials used in the seal or gasket for the 2003 model year." See article for details.

In addition to this, mail notices were sent to owners with a label for service technicians to "take extra care with the filter change", e.g., "follow standard procedure to ensure that the surface was clear when the new filter was installed." "Honda also has instructed dealers to replace oil filters on all unsold CR-Vs" and "will use a gauge to test the oil-filter seal; if the filter is mounted wrong, the dealer will replace it for free with a filter made in North America if your vehicle's first oil filter change occurred more than 30 days ago."

Did they change the location of the oil filter or take other redesign actions beginning with the 2006 MY?

That appears to be no though you might want to wait and check out the MY2007 yourself if this is still a big concern.

Were there any similar problems with the 2006?

"Though there have been no reports of fires in November or December", would expect to be hearing if any new one occurred since then and from that any reasonable person should be able to judge how successful/unsuccessful Honda and their instructions have been taken by owners, dealers/technicians and suppliers alike.

Have found many very knowledgeable people on forums like this one and hondasuv.com that may comment on this further and even help you decide your next purchase. Hope you find the vehicle you are looking for.

Alex

ralph9

Thank you very much for your detailed response. It appears to be a non-issue for the 2006 and subsequent model years. Best wishes, Ralph

fussycrvowner

Hello: I am having an ongoing problem with my brakes. Every 8 months or so I end up replacing all four sets due to corrosion. The pads are hardly worn and are rusting to the slides on the mounting brackets, causing them to freeze up and overheat. I would use the pads over but the shims behind them are badly rusted. I am at the point of buying rebuilt calipers and hope the problem is resolved in the rebuilding process. I have used all the grease and coatings supplied in the pad kits from the dealer and remove the corrosion from all of the surfaces where the brake parts move. This is becoming a real headache to have to do so often. Any ideas how to make the repairs more "permanent?" Thanks.

gsolman6

My boss has an issue with her CRV. After having noticed one of the headlights burnt out she replaced it only to have the other one burn out right after. She replace the second one but now has one of the reverse lights burnt out. She's thinking of getting an extra reverse light just b/c she scared that this is not the end of the line.

Could this be a symptom of something larger or just a coincidence?

richhop

I have a 2001 CRV with 60K on it. The rear window release works fine with the remote key, but does not with the under-dash button. Has anyone had this same problem and how did you fix it? I have checked for fuses, but none are identified.

mandiemae

I have 1998 CRV ex with about 63K on in. I've notice that sometimes the transmission seems a little rough when the engine is cool, but once it warms up, I don't have any problems. I took it in to Midas, just to be sure it was okay, and they told me they'd need to replace the entire transmission at a grand total of 3200 dollars. Quite disheartening news for a college student. However, I'm really having a hard time believing that the entire thing needs to be replaced. The service tech wouldn't even tell me what the problem exactly was. He just kept saying, when there's an issue, we just replace the transmission nowadays...does this seem off to anyone else? I decided to go to the Honda dealer and have them look at it, not that I could afford the 3,000 dollar repair anyways. Any advice?

wuster

That sounds like BS!

Have you checked the transmission fluid? If it's not red and has a burnt smell to it, then you may have a potential transmission issue. Or you may just need a transmission fluid change or just low on fluid.

I'd take it to an transmission specialist like AAMCO for a 2nd opinion.

blueiedgod

Does anyone know what might cause the D on the instrument panel to flash randomly? There's nothing in the owners manual and the dealership didn't have any ready answers.

Read it again, and again and again until you see where it says that flashing D means transmission trouble.

blueiedgod

Hello: I am having an ongoing problem with my brakes. Every 8 months or so I end up replacing all four sets due to corrosion. The pads are hardly worn and are rusting to the slides on the mounting brackets, causing them to freeze up and overheat. I would use the pads over but the shims behind them are badly rusted. I am at the point of buying rebuilt calipers and hope the problem is resolved in the rebuilding process. I have used all the grease and coatings supplied in the pad kits from the dealer and remove the corrosion from all of the surfaces where the brake parts move. This is becoming a real headache to have to do so often. Any ideas how to make the repairs more "permanent?" Thanks.

You must be near me. I am near Buffalo, NY. My right rear slider froze up and wore off the pad. Dealer replaced it under warranty and suggested I paid them $100 to lube up other 4 wheels. I just bought a tub of Molykote-77 for $3 and did it myself. There is enough grease for me to do it every 6 months for the life of the car. Other than that, I don't know of a more permanent solution.

wuster

You could move south where salt isn't on the roads 6+ months out of the year... :P (Sorry, I couldn't help it)

user777

perhaps an issue with voltage regulation in the alternator. take it to an autozone and have them hook the alternator and battery up to a tester to see if either is showing signs of needing replacement.

tafrantz

I've got a '97 CR-V with 58K miles on it. I took it to the dealer because the transmission has started to slip. They tell me the fluid is burnt and the car needs a whole new transmission (4700.00) It's been roughly 28K miles since the fluid was replaced and the car is gently driven. They tell me not to bother replacing the fluid, but it seems to me like that would just make matters worse. Is it just me, or is this normal? Have there been any "undocumented" problems with the transmissions from the early years?

snapperwhipper

I noticed the light on the dash telling me the glass wasn't closed so I tried but no luck,after checking to make sure it isn,t blocked I'm looking at the latch and something might be missing(a little piece of plastic maybe)the release thing works ok so I,m hoping someone has a idea how to fix
thanks in advance

ramarquardt2

To: Mandiemae re: transmission rough when cool
I have a '97 Honda CRV and it displays the same symptom. When you start out cold, the shifting between the lower gears feels more rough (I would say its more crisp and sharp) versus the more smooth feel after about a mile of driving. If you haven't done so, change the transmission fluid. Since approx. 50% stays in the tranny, I would recommend that you do it twice over a month. Anyhow, you will feel that it reduces the "roughness" but doesn't eliminate it. My opinion is don't worry about it. Mine's been doing it a long time and I haven't had any issues nor am I worried. Changing the tranny fluid is easy to do since it drains out like an oil change job and gives one something to do on a Sunday when I listen to the Packers losing. take care

ramarquardt2

I have the full service manuals for the Honda CRV's. A flashing "D" indicator indicates a problem with the transmission. There are 22 possible issues associated with a flashing "D". Take the car to an AutoZone and have them do a free diagnostic read with the scanner. A code should be stored. I would also find a new dealer if they couldn't help. Possible issues range from sensors, switches, valves, etc.. some are easier to fix than others. Many of them can be fixed without the removal of the transmission.

ramarquardt2

I have the service manuals for all the CRV's. I have not had your issue but the schematics for the 2001 CRV shows that the remote key rear hatch opener is in parallel with the under-dash button. That's good since it is most likely either the 2 wire plug has come loose from the release switch or the switch itself has become faulty. You have to remove the lower dashboard cover to get access to the switch. I would then check the wiring and could check quickly by just shorting the two wires together to see if it was the wiring. It is not the fuse. The same fuse works both the remote and the under-dash switch. You will have to take it to the dealer to have them look at it. I believe your problem will be fixed with relative ease. take care....

fussycrvowner

You're right!!!! I live near Cleveland, OH where they use road salt also. I was hoping for a miracle cure like Honda redesigned the brakes with some sort of coating on the slides. I have seen high temperature paint specifically for brake calipers or hopefully the rebuilt ones will already be painted in some cases... The pads seem to fit tightly in any case. Other thing I may consider is having the brakes done at an independant shop and if they cause problems getting the repair under their warranty.

marg2265

Hi there, I have a question about servicing my 04 CRV. I just recently had it in for an oil change, and was told I needed the 15000 mile service. Well, I had done my homework, and knew the next service was 20000 miles, so said I would do it the next time, when it hits 20k. The card they filled out for me for the next visit says 20000 mile service, Drain & Fill Trans Fluid -- $190. Rear Differential Service -- $72.95. Is this high priced and/or necessary? Where can I find out what the 20k service really entails? I so do not trust this dealership... Thanks for your help!!!

dragonfly47

Where can I find out what the 20k service really entails?

Check here:
Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins

If the dealer insists that non-scheduled service needs to be done, it should be covered under warranty, at no charge to you.

marg2265

Thank you, I had seen that before and that was how I knew there was no "15000 mile service". What is "drain & fill transmission fluid" and when is that necessary? Same question for "rear differential service". Am I really being jacked around or is this normal for a dealership?

I just want to sound like I know what I am talking about when I tell these guys to take a hike. This site is telling me it should cost me around $100 and they are quoting me a $260 service package. I want my car to run forever, but not at the cost of unnecessary service!! Thanks so much for all of your advice and help!!!

wuster

Drain & Fill Transmission fluid - It's just like an oil change. The old transmission fluid is drained out and new fluid added. However, note that a drain & fill will not replace all the transmission fluid. It'll get about 60% - 70% of the old stuff. You're better off doing a transmission power flush which will replace all the fluids. Second note. You should ONLY replace the CRV transmission fluid with Honda transmission fluid. For some reason, Honda vehicles doesn't run well with generic fluids.

Now, do you need it? Typically, a drain and fill isn't call for unless there is some sort of transmission issue or you've got a lot of miles on the car. I've got a 00 CRV with 75k miles on it and I'm still on the original transmission fluid that came from the factory. Haven't had a lick of problem with it in 6 years (knock on wood) You can also check the fluid. If it's mostly clear with a light hint of red and no burnt smell, you're fine. If it's a dark red/brown and it smells burnt... You'll probably need one.

Now the rear differential service. That is a different story. Even though the owners manual doesn't call for a rear diff fluid change till 90k miles, a lot of are people having problems with the rear diff fluid breaking down early. You'll know when you're having problems when the rear end starts making funny noises when you're making a sharp turn to the left or right, or when the 4WD kicks in.

As a preventive measure, most people (myself included) believe it's a good idea to change the rear diff fluid at around 30k miles.

It's a simple job that takes about 30 minutes (about 20 minutes of sitting around drinking a beer or coke waiting for the fluid to drain.) and about $25 in parts (2 quarts of Honda rear diff fluid, a hand pump or funnel with really long neck, and a new washer)

BTW - You do have a 4WD CRV right? If it's a FWD model, I'd start looking around for a new dealer for service. Cause you ain't got a rear diff.

My 2 cents.

marg2265

Yes, I do have a 4WD! Thanks so much for your reply! I have an 04, and only 18000 miles on it now. So I find it hard to believe I need the transmission fluid changed out, and I'll see what they say about holding off on the rear-diff service until 30K miles. I guess I must look like a dumb blonde...

sky23213

Well, I was waiting for my Brother in Manual :P to chime in, but since he didn't, I will. First, crack open your OWNER'S MANUAL. It lists two types of Maint. schedule - normal and severe. Since you don't drive a lot, you might go with the normal, but if you plan to keep the car for a long time, go with severe (the maintenance is based on mileage AND time intervals). Wuster is absolutely right about the rear diff. fluid, mine broke down at 17K (dealer replaced it under good will warranty), so even if you don't get the symptoms of the Fluid going south, replace it at 30K. And definitely go to the dealer to make sure the right stuff is put in. 04 CR-V shouldn't be that different from 05, which I have, so the Maint. Schedule should be the same. I go with the severe, and even that calls for nothing more than oil changes every 5k and tire rotations every 10k, so anything else b4 30K should be either under warranty or is unnecessary. Oh, you may want to replace your cabin filter, those get pretty nasty, but buy online for about 10 bucks, it's pretty easy, we discussed earlier in this thread, look it up.
As far as the transmission fluid, I'd agree, 15K is waaay too early.
Good Luck

jpcanavera

Are tech service bulletins really issued as a help in repairing a frequently known problem or is it an acknowledgement that a general problem is known and there may be some repair cost consideration when a vehicle is out of warranty?

Jack

crv202

My 2002 Honda CRV drivers side door lock will no longer lock or unlock using the remote control. It only works by using the key in the door lock. It affects all the other doors also. Any solutions?

stever

"a technical service bulletin is actually an advisory issued by a manufacturer for use by dealership service departments."

They've turned out to be a bit more than that, even though they are intended to cover confirmed problems found during the warranty period.

You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)

fussycrvowner

My MIL came on without any flashing "D" indicator. Is there a website which lists what the trouble codes stored mean? The way ALLDATA lists the codes they assume that you already have read the scan tool. I would like to have the list on hand when I go to Autozone.

drive62

Do you mean the CEL (Check Engine Light)? That's different than a "D" light, which I believe flashes independent of a CEL. If that's what it is (CEL) I never really used to believe it until I experienced it, but it is usually the gas cap. Give it a while to reset itself. You can always get the code read but IIWM I'd wait to see if it goes out on it's own.

supercalifrag

I've owned my 2006 CR-V SE model for about 4 months with just under 3,000 miles. I am almost certain that when I left the dealership there wasn't this stain on my leather seat back. :surprise:

The stain is a linear one which would look like it was a transfer of color from a pants belt. However, the stain is blue in color and I do not have any blue belts. I did take the CR-V back to the dealership shortly after purchasing it to get some rattling noise eliminated from the front passenger door. And have thought perhaps this was done at the time the car was being worked on.

I thought over time the stain may disappear, but alas, it's still there. I've tried just about every cleaner that's been recommended to me on this site and have even gone the distance of using cleanser, "Goo Gone" and other similar cleaners. Luckily the seat is still in one piece and not further stained or damaged.

I would like to take the car to the dealership and tell them the story and see if I can get this cleaned/taken care of by them. Friends have been telling me that if it was indeed caused by me, the seats should have been "factory treated" to handle any kind of possible color transfer from clothing. "After all are you supposed to drive naked?", is what my friends would quip.

But they have also advised me not to say that I have treated it with anything as that may void any possible warranty. After all, the owner's manual doesn't even recommend what to use when cleaning the seats.

Any help and/or advice would be appreciated.

Steve

gailepat

:sick: I have a 2003 CRV with automatic transmission and 68,000 miles. It was having a problem with hesitation between 40-50 MPH and according to the dealer, I need a need a new transmission. If I wanted to replace a transmission before 70,000 mile I would have gotten a KIA.

Never had problems with previous Hondas (Accord and CRV) but the A/C blew out at 50,000 and now the transmission. Honda covered the A/C but the transmission isn't covered. Bottom line - this car has needed two $2,500 repairs. Anyone else had similar problems?

fussycrvowner

It is the "malfuncion indicator light" which I guess is the came as the CEL. The owner's manual says something about maybe a flashing "D" goes along with it under certain conditions. I just have the engine shaped light on. Good thought about the gas cap - I read that too. It was tight when I filled up about 110 miles ago. Only thing I do notice is that the engine speed is more sensitive to the gas pedal and seems to sag a bit. I will read out the code and try having the compter learn again. I hope it is just a tank full of bad gas because the last time I filled up the mileage dropped way down - 4 MPG highway.

mikefm58

My 99 CRV does the same thing, dealer wants about $500 to replace the door handle components. But in my case, only the driver's side door is affected.

blueiedgod

I noticed the light on the dash telling me the glass wasn't closed so I tried but no luck,after checking to make sure it isn,t blocked I'm looking at the latch and something might be missing(a little piece of plastic maybe)the release thing works ok so I,m hoping someone has a idea how to fix
thanks in advance

Is the glass hatch actually not closing or is the light just saying that it is not closed?

I had blinking dash and cargo area lights from the hatch. Turned out to be the tailgate switch. I just put a piece of silicone tubing on it to make it fatter.

happycamper3

I have only 16,000 miles on my 2005 Honda CRV. I had the same problem with the grinding sounds when turning in a parking spot or pulling out of my driveway. Dealership I bought my car from said it was my differential fluid and needed to be replaced. I thought it was only to be replaced every 20,000 miles. I am confused... any know if this is a common problem with Honda CRVs? Why would my fluid already need to be replaced?

picklepops

I have a 2006 CRV and was wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.
As I am driving the car pulls to the right and the stearing wheel is very sensitive,
I literally have to hold on to it tight because any bump/uneven pavement on the road makes the car shift all of the sudden to the right. I have taken it to the dealership twice and asked them to check the alingment and they keep saying the alignment is good and the car drives that way. I am not convinced at all that this is true. Does anyone have
any suggestions. I have read about PTTR (Pull To The Right) on the forum but I am
desperate for any help.

mnf

I had no issues yet on my 06 but i have read some posts saying others have. I did a quick search and came up with a few... Good Luck

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef026c3!keywords=allin%3Amsgtext%2- 0limit%3A.ef026c3%20pull%20right&count=20

wuster

This is a pretty common problems on CRV's since the first gen model. The owner manual doesn't call for a rear diff fluid till 90K miles, but ppl started having rear diff issues way before that.

Most ppl are going to a rear diff fluid change every 30K miles and that seems to work well.

jck2

Help! I picked up my new 2006 CR-V LX yesterday and noticed on my 30 mile (40 mph)drive home that it pulls to the right (PTTR). Possibly this is what is referred to as "drift" rather than "pull" in FAQ #17, but the two problems seem similar to me except for the degree of the problem.
At any rate, I also have an Oddessy and an Accord and, based on those vehicles, what I am experiencing is definitely not normal. I'm nervous about getting the problem fixed because of the number of messages posted indicating a lot of trouble in this regard. I would appreciate any thoughts, TSB's, Bulletin's, etc. any readers are willing to share. Thanks.

fussycrvowner

Just wanted to give an update to my previous post: I took the CR-V to Autozone and they were able to give me the trouble code of P1166. They advised that some codes are Honda specific and that they did not have information for that pparticular code. Their loss because I did a Google search of "Honda P1166" and found that the air/fuel sensor had failed. I went to the dealer and picked up one for $250 and the special socket for oxygen sensors and was able to replace. So far the light has not come on again after resetting the computer.