By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Make sure, before buttoning it all up, you advance the gain on the high and low adjustments. Does your car have separate tweeters? If not, just adjust the bass volume before you tighten it all. I didn't have the dealer do it, they left it at the factory settings, and I had to unbolt it, pull it out, and turn it up.
The OEM kit comes with wiring harness and connectors that connect to the factory head unit. Then you route the harness to the sub under the driver's seat.
Because of it's location, it is very good at getting your girl in "the mood" when she is driving by playing tunes with SOME bass. lol
It is not difficult if you know the difference between a screwdriver (not a drink) and hammer.
Follow the instructions. It is pretty straight forward. Almost every one breaks a clip or two on their first Honda DIY project.
Interestingly, Honda refunded my money for my replacing an O2 sensor on a 1996 Honda Accord as part of a recall even though the car is 10 years old.
If you remember as part of that settlement you got a free tune up at 90,000 miles. I just got a letter from Honda reminding me that my 1997 Accord was still covered and that if I had already paid for emissions repairs, to submit the bill for potential reimbursement.
Jack
I'm not sure if you will actually have to replace a sensor but I just replaced the air/fuel sensor (which some folks call the O2 sensor). There is a front and rear sensor. I forgot the code but for all intents it was a preheater function on the front one which went bad. Be prepared for sticker shock since the part alone is $200+ dependent upon the dealer (I found a $50 variance here in St. Louis). I found a Honda dealer on the east coast who mail orders parts and got the cost down to $190 or so without having to pay local sales tax. It was a snap to replace and it took care of the problem.
Since that front sensor has a preheat function (the problem with mine), only buy the Honda unit. Most folks who bought the after market brands found that those replacement sensors do not always talk to the computer correctly and they still end up with a check engine light. Spend the $$ and do it right the first time.
Jack
Jack
Jack
First time when it came on, at 10,000 miles, then 20,000 miles after that it's on/off with the cap/recap and trips to the dealership with the code P1456 and P1166...being told I wasn't capping it properly ...the three clicks...
At close to 30,000 miles service, I was fortunate to have a service manager(she has since left) that look into my concern and noted the fuel gas cap was not properly sealing. I got a replacement under warranty. Not problem for about 2 yrs....
Just before 60,000 miles service (out of warranty), the malfuction light came on again. I was told the Gas Cap failed the leak test, found code P1166 and P1456 again BUT this time the OXYGEN SENSOR need to be replaced(special order-because part is out of stock). I was charged a whooping $$87 just for the diagnosis and a new Gas Cap (NOT including the oxygen sensor replacement that will soon follow).
So I am on my third gas cap with a 4.5 yrs old car.
Can this constant problem with the gas cap cause the O2 sensor to breakdown eventually????
I wonder if the sensor that is detecting a bad gas cap (or leak in the system) might have an intermittant connection that is occasionally telling the computer you haven't put the cap on right or that you have a leak.
Did the dealer do a leak test on the 1st gas cap?
Yes, the 1st cap also failed the leak test.
All the caps initially went into smoothly then gradually seems to just get sticky.
I wholeheartedly agree with you. People think that if the heater is cold, or of they are cold, that the car is cold, but when the heater blows warm air the car must be warmed up. You are absolutley correct that warm engine does nothing to the tranny, nor the brakes, nor the power steering, nothing. People just do it so they feel comfortable, but you an excuse that the car needs it. The OWNER's MANUAL says that after strarting the car in the morning it can be driven after 1 (one) minute.
"Unless it's below freezing, cars don't need to be warmed up at all. Driving them gently is the best warm up there is. If it's 25 degrees out, you might want to let it warm up for 30 seconds. If it's 10 degrees out, warm it up for a minute. If it's -10 degrees out, move somewhere warmer." :P http://www.cartalk.com/content/features/fueleconomy/
"When you crawl out of bed on a cold winter's day, it probably takes you a little while to warm up. Your car, too, needs some time to warm up so it can be driven safely. Always start a car with your foot on the brake. You'll be sure not to lurch backwards or forwards, and the car will start more easily. You don't have to let the engine run on and on before driving away. About a minute is all that's needed to sufficiently warm up the engine."
http://www.yins.ns.ca/tips/tip40a.htm
First, this wears heavily on an engine, lowering its overall efficiency and the efficiency of parts related to it (including pollution controls). Next, most computers enrich the fuel/air mixture in a cold engine to make it burn more effectively and run properly. At idle, this process takes in very little fuel. However, at highway speeds, it requires massive amounts of fuel to move such a large object and make the engine run in a proper manner. Additionally, computer controls will prohibit a car's torque converter from locking up until the engine has warmed up, making the car run an average of 500 rpm faster to maintain the same speed. In three ways, not allowing a car to warm up destroys fuel economy in both the short and long term. Those driving Turbo's are also advised to not only warm them up before engaging drive, but to also cool them down in hot weather before turning off the car.
A websearch turns up very conflicting information. Most automobile engineers say there is no need for warming up above 45*F or so, and at lower temps, a minute or two, at the most is advisable. I think lots of people think they need 5 or ten minutes, when a minute or two is all that is needed.
Also, most people just want the car warm when they get in, especially someone living in Buffalo. Toronto or Detroit. A big help would be an engine block heater.
I did.
I should eBay both my blockheaters I suppose. I rarely used them in Anchorage - when it got down to zero or 10 below F, I'd turn them on for an hour in the morning (if I remembered to plug the cars in the night before). I ran plain old oil up there too and didn't have a garage. Cars aren't wimps. Put 'em in gear and go.
tidester, host
Great Falls in October. Boy did it complain and cry at every start up! Certainly it isn't a typical car, but the Murano is exactly the same...here in Reno it is down to 25 or so at night now, soon to the 10's, and I start it, come back to it in a couple of minutes. It is much happier, and drives without the cold valve chatter and knocking.
Won't help the Viper, however....its headed for the scrap heap, lol.
You may save fuel, but you will pay for the heater with your electric bill, unless you get free electricity.
5W-20 flows well into -30's and 0W-20 flows at -40 or so. No need for electric heater. With the global warming rapidly rising overall temps, pretty soon Buffalo won't have much snow in the winter. As it is, I have lived here for 2 years, this is my third winter in Buffalo, I have only seen -10 once. Supposedly it was a regular occurence. And the lake used to freeze up in the winters, not anymore. Say there is no global warming.
Variations of temperatures have been with the planet since it was formed. Colder and warmer cycles have been documented in Earth's history for all time.
Now, some use the current warm trend to justify their own agendas and beliefs, but it does not make a real "emergency" or make fact that greenhouse gases, from technology, made it happen. Thousands, tens of thousands of years ago, massive volcanic eruptions, over hundreds of years, brought on ice ages. That's simply fact as well.
Those who seek gain for their own purposes have done a masterful job of self-promotion and double speak, making a normal occurrence for the planet, seem like a dire emergency...
Geeeeesssssssh...!
tidester, host
Thanks!
The battery will suffer some loss of life if it is completely discharged several times.
As for the lights, that is indeed a failure on Honda's part. To prevent it happening again, stop and think what your Grandfather had to do. He had to remember to turn them off.
You might want to check with the dealer for a malfunction here.
You might want to check with the dealer for a malfunction here.
I don't hear any warning chime. As you said, I will check with my dealer. Does this chime sound apply to all 2007 CRV models?
Well, my grandfather doesn't have to park in the busy parking lot and catch the bart train at 7:01 am
The battery will suffer some loss of life if it is completely discharged several times.
Thanks for the advise reg. jump starter. I didn't know that battery will suffer some loss.